Jayco Lithium Upgrade | ITECH 200 and DCDC 40 Install | ITECHWORLD
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- Опубліковано 6 лют 2025
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Installing our new ITECH 200 battery and DCDC 40 charger in our 2005 Jayco Hawk.
This is a really simple and budget conscious way to upgrade your old AGM batteries to LifePO4 units without having to change too much of your camper trailer or caravans existing wiring or protection.
We have disconnected the original Jayco SETEC ST20 but kept it in place and are now running it as a stand alone fuse box.
This way we don't have to re-run any cabling to lights, power, fuses, or accessories and only have to focus on the charger and battery.
ITECHWORLD DCDC40 - itechworld.com...
ITECH200 Lithium Battery - itechworld.com...
#lithium #itech200 #itechworld #dcdc40
😅hi been watching your videos just woundering don't you have to connect the ignition wire for this to work as I want to do mine thanks
Hi Darryl,
Ordinarily mate, the ignition wire would need to run back to a switched source of 12V power in the engine bay (either the fuel pump, ignition on etc)
Only reason I haven't used this is the Colorado I drive has a fixed voltage alternator that makes the ignition cable redundant.
Great job mate, picked up the Complete Lithium 4WD kit from iTechworld today and will be fitting it to the Jayco in the coming weeks. Looking forward to seeing the next video!
Thanks mate. Hope it all goes in well for you!
Great video, once the ctech is disconnected from 240 power ac and dc chargers have been connected do we need an inline fuse from battery to ctech.
It'll depend on your system Ernest.
My SETEC already had an inline blade fuse installed. This may have been standard through Jayco, but I couldn't be 100% sure.
Hey mate that’s not 6b&s cable, what your using is much smaller, maybe see how your charge goes but you will probably have to get some actual 6b&s cable if you charging at 40amps
Spot on Russell.
I miss spoke and was wondering who would pick up on that first 😂
After a quick voltage drop calculation I worked out we can get away with the 6mm2 but couldn’t run any longer cable without going up a size.
Hey buddy great video set well done. the user manual size for cable is 1-5m length should be 8 b&s cable not 6mm. I would recommend using 6 b&s for any 40a DC to DC charger to maximise efficiency. Also just checking but I can't see a fuse I hope it is fused at both ends.
Cheers Kevin,
100% mate, I do have 6 B&S cable to upgrade if need be.
I had plans to measure the voltage drop against proper 6B&S cable and show it on another video.
Hopefully I can get around to it soon 😂
6 b&s or awg is around 13.5mm2
Narva 6mm cable is 4.58mm2
A 40amp DC/DC charger will draw more than 40Amps. It will only put out 40Amps to the house battery but will draw more than 40Amps from the cars alternator.
According to the manual for your charger it can draw 45amps
I hope you changed it. If you didn’t, had a run of cable from car battery to dcdc in van or 12m and a current draw or 45A you would have a voltage drop of over 4V with an alternator output of 14V.
Use 4B&S for this job
Hey Bud; quick question about the earthing side of things. Other than the earth at the crank battery did you have to earth any of the remaining items?
Thanks in advance
Hey mate, I’ve grounded the system in the camper trailer to its own chassis also.
When it’s hitched up, this creates a ground circuit between both trailer and car batteries and separates when it’s unhitched.
First I would install a fuse right at the battery terminal rated to protect the rated cable.Second any exposure double insulated cable exposed under your van clip curogated protection over from rocks etc.If you have two different size cables each cable should have a rated fuse for that circuit,Hope The makes your van safer.PS take spare fuses for in case.
Great suggestions Geoff.
Glad to say I've done exactly that!
All external cabling covered by corrugated conduit and extra fuses installed at various points as well as extras on hand!
Thanks for the comment mate.
Great video again mate, well done!
Thanks mate. Appreciate it 👍🏽
Thanks Mate Saved me some dollars on batteries with your coupon :)
No worries mate. Glad I could help 🤙🏽
Gday mate how are using 12 volt lights and 3 way fridge if you had bypass the Setec having same issues if I want to keep 3 way fridge
Yeah I'm running them off the lithium battery mate. With bypassing the Setec, it's really only bypassed the power supply part.
All the fuses and distribution still work like normal.
The 3 way still ran off the car while driving (normal) and I'd just run it off gas when we went offgrid.
@@OutNAboutAustralia cheers did you run a separate Anderson to run your 3 way fridge while traveling or are you using the 12 pin plug
@SteveBatty-r1p sorry mate, misunderstood ya.
Yeah it’s running through the trailer plug.
@@OutNAboutAustralia thanks but you still didn't answer my question are you using the 12 pin plug to run 3 way on 12 volt while driving mine has 7 pin and a Anderson on drawbar
@SteveBatty-r1p yeah mate 12 pin. Mine originally had a 7 as well
Hey mate, does your DCDC stay charging even after your car is off? Also, my battery is full but the harger still kicks in and charges. I thought they only kick in when the battery is around 85%
Nah I haven’t had that problem mate.
My Ute runs a constant voltage alternator though so it’s not a complicated system.
I’d double check your trigger wire isn’t getting a run signal from somewhere.
Thanks for a great video. However I was a bit confused about the role of the setec charger that came with the van. Do you use that to charge the lithium battery from 240v? If not, did you install a separate 240v charger for the battery?
Hey Lance, no the idea was to remove the Setec and simply use it as a fuse / marshelling box for the existing circuits. However I have since wired it back up in to see how it works with a lithium battery...video coming soon!
@@OutNAboutAustralia we’re you using something else to charge the lithium battery from 240v or were you only charging it from the car and solar?
@@data-bass just the car and solar up to this point mate.
Is that why you cut the end of the plug to the setec? Also mine doesn't have an isolator switch between battery and 240v so I'm assuming it does it automatically through the setec.
If I was to install a charger though would there be a problem with the separate charger and setec both charging at the same time?
Do you have any detail on the 240 side? How do we charge the lithium battery with 240? Do you Bypass the jayco setec system and install a suitable charger? Or can another DcDc charger be used to take the DC output from the setec and make it compatible for lithium?
Hey Dave, thanks for the question.
From what I’ve gathered from iTechWorld, the battery is a “drop in” replacement for an AGM, so in theory I believe it could charge off the standard Setec, however it charges at a relatively low current meaning it would be far lower than optimum charging current for a 200Ahr LifePO4 battery.
I’ll be doing a video in more detail as soon as this rain in NSW clears off 👍🏽
@@OutNAboutAustralia
How did it go with the setec?
I'm looking at using one of these "drop in" battery's to replace my agm.
Already have a redarc bc-dc charger but worried about the setec.
Hey mate,
I’m actually testing it this weekend so I’ll get an answer to you hopefully tomorrow arvo 👍🏽
@@OutNAboutAustralia
Sounds like u need a holiday mate.
😀
@renegadecampervan5017
Tell you what I wouldn’t mind one 😂
So the short answer, yep the Setec will charge the 200Ah battery, however it’s a slow process and wouldn’t be my first pick.
Thanks mate. My wife and I have been considering a Jayco offroad secondhand. Feeling unsure. How do you find it?
No worries mate,
We love ours, and it suits us really well, like all second hand buys there’s been a few things to fix mostly due to its age.
Our only advice would to be patient and find the right trailer before rushing in.
Nice one mate
Thanks mate. Appreciate it! 🤙🏽
Hay mate, I see your not using the ignition cable on the itech. Curious if you have an older car or a new car and if you have a new car how does it go without the ignition cable connected?
Hey mate we’re towing with a 2015 Colorado.
The 2.8 Duramax runs a fixed voltage alternator but the ignition wire wouldn’t have been hard to run.
@@OutNAboutAustralia thanks buddy
@@highlander752 no worries
Hi mate What does the long thin black cable do that you haven't connected.wheres video 3
Hey mate, that cable is an optional ignition wire.
I haven’t used it in our setup as our ute has a fixed voltage alternator so it wouldn’t really serve a purpose.
I had to push video 3 back as I realised I’d forgotten to get a shunt 😂😂 but that’ll be up next week.
No worries mate. 👍
@@OutNAboutAustralia and maybe some fuses to/from the DCDC charger? It's in the little booklet that came with the DCDC40. I've ended up with this:
- twin gauge 6 coming from Alt+Car batt into a 60A fuse (that was awesome in reducing voltage drop from under bonnet all the way to the camper);
- then to the DCDC in.
- from DCDC out into another 60A fuse
- then to Batt
- only connection to neg of Batt goes to shunt
- other side of shunt goes to GND bus where any load should hook up.
Hey mate have you tracked the actual amps this charger is charging at?
A lot of people reporting they only ever see 20-25amps of charging from the 40amp dcdc.
Pretty poor form from itechworld if so. They have a habit of underdelivering
I have had a few issues with the charger. I’m actually in the process of a video trying to get the full rating out of it.
It looks like itech have discontinued my particular model however 🤷🏽♂️
@@OutNAboutAustralia yeah sweet. That’s why I asked. Looks like they have a new model which looks the goods but it’s hard to commit to something if previous models have had issues. Kind of like their 120x and 120x pro lithium batteries and the discharge controversy.
@@CJFranciss I've just installed one DCDC40 in my jayco and another in my car (1 120XPRO Batt in the jayco and another in the car).
I get ~39A on both systems (not at the same time) when running from the alternator just fine. My alternator is 100A by the way. Still a bit skeptical of hooking up both DCDCs at the same time even though one of them should cutt off when car batt goes < 12.8, etc..
On the Jayco camper, I left the SETEC in place for now as it is the only way I got to charge the camper batt when plugged on AC.
Still trying to figure out how to hook up a BCDC to replace it and get a better charging rate, without too much fluff with the existing old jayco wiring.
SETEC is putting around 7A. I guess it cannot trigger bulk vs float properly as the batt is normally at ~13V
But regarding the current limitation you've mentioned, I definitely did not have that issue. Overall, pretty happy with the iTech products.
One thing that I could mention is that when the voltage of the main batt + alternator goes under 12.8V (I can make that happen switching on my spotties while car is idling, which adds 22A to the load - not sure what fraction of 100A the alternator produces at idle speed ) It takes about a minute for the DCDC40 to switch off. I am not a fan of sucking the life out of the car when that happens... But apparently it is harmless for that kind of short time window. It would suck though if you are on start and stop kinda traffic...
Good job 👏
Cheers Frank, so far so good
Real tradies use Ozito tools....🤣😂
Need to be a real tradie just to make them work hahaha