wow, best RGB mod I ever seen. It is nice, it looks like made in factory from outside, and even inside is very smart and organized due the raster size of the PCB and dupont wiring! I'm European, so no RGB mod is required in my case. But this is nice idea for me how to put Raspberry Pi ZERO W into my TV with dupont! RPi ZERO W is cheap and have Bluetooth and WiFi connectivity. There is basic idea regarding this: ua-cam.com/video/EczUrViGAbE/v-deo.html This is fast method but results might be much more satisfying. If I will use some distro with RAM disk, by that I can decrease risk of any issues during boot of RPI. Picture can be better than compos%it, RPi ZERO W is RGB capable with GPIO pins, with BT & WiFi in addition to that might be nice modern, precious gadget in old-school CRT TV. PS.: I heard that variable resistors instead of fixed ones might actually do better job. In our, Europe-specific projects variable resistors are placed inside RGB cable connector with knobs exposed outside. This might be useful when you play with different hardware, arcade PCB boards are good example in this case. Each producer in every board series used to change something regarding RGB output.
Hey man, i got the micron chip TB1238BN. This chip got a input for RGB? (i see something in the datasheet) i want make a RGB mod for my TV.. Is a Noblex 20tc627. You video useful and hopeful so much.. I need your help, please!!!
This is incredibly helpful, I honestly can't thank you enough. I've been looking for a tutorial that goes into this amount of detail for a very long time, and luckily this general method seems like it would work with a lot of TVs that aren't D-Series as well.
Yeah, it's why I went overboard into repeating aspects of the mod several times. I'll be releasing more crt rgb mod vids that go into further detail. Hopefully... cause sometimes I'm lazy with the vid releases. LOL.
Most complete and detailed video... No... Most complete and detailed MEDIA ever about the subject. Thanks for all of the information poured in this video and for your time and effort put into it
Super easy. You'll wonder why you haven't tried it. Like I said, I was AFRAID for years. Now it's like ho-hum. Just always be careful you don't accidentally touch stuff when the TV's on. You'll notice. the picture quality right away and you really can't go back to an LCD later... at least for me. Any type. of lag is a killer, and you play so much better on a CRT.
Don't sweat it man. While perfection is great, if it isn't perfect, just appreciate what you have. Just do your best to do what's possible to correct in the service menu and magnetic stips. Then enjoy what you have. Perfection is overrated.
The SegaHolic there isn’t a tv i got right now that would be worth modding, but if i come up on a d series, I’ll consider it. Especially with your thorough video to guide me.
Some tvs with processor and jungle integrated can be modded to have rgb, those tvs accept rgb signals through it's Component in. The mileage varies. Other tvs can't be modded when their OSD rgb input is digital. Nice video.
@@davidbenning10 yeah. I ended up doing an experiment myself. I made a UA-cam video on it. I came to the conclusion that, when calibrated properly, component looks identical to rgb. I didn't use a transcoder in my video though. I used a monitor that takes rgb and component with a ps2.
@@raymondrodrigues8351 The D500 I have has a black case, instead of the silver one. I have not opened it up to see what's inside to see if there are differences. I also have a 27" D-Series that also has a silver case, so I'll be doing the mod on that one too.
@@raymondrodrigues8351 the 01 means manufactured in 2000, 02 means 2001. The 5 series has Picture in Picture, an illuminated remote and the 501 in particular has an extra S-Video input (they removed it from later ones). Otherwise they are basically the same.
@@jeffjohnson3099 They were all black in 2000/2001. They changed the 500 series to Silver after that but kept the 200 series black and added a 300 series that was identical but silver.
Brother, you're always awesome! Thanks for making a video even like this, using your superpowers to teach us mortals how to do this nice mod, for those of us in the States who didn't have the better definition RGB Scart TVs. I have a huge 40" Trinitron VVega XBR that I would like to bypass all of the lag inducing processing and tap straight into the RGB, maybe even hopefully affect the signal timing too to 60hz instead of the 100hz so I can use my lightguns on it also.
Wow, didn't know 40"ers existed. But damn, its been a long time Swankey! Superpowers? LOL. I'll be making a Wega RGB vdieo soon, should be out within a week as it's been requested by a few viewers. As for the processing and disabling... that, you're gonna have to ask someone with more knowledge on that. Sorry. But great to hear from you again!
@@The_SegaHolic Yeah! Sorry man, I've been edumacatin' myself with so many helpful videos out there I'm racking up those 'UA-cam Doctorates', I kinda get lost in all of them, that it sidetracks me from the friends (as yourself) in the community. I saw this video pop up in my recommended interests, and then I was like, *Dude... SegaHolic!* Again, sorry brother. You do have the best and most helpful stuff, and it's apparent you invest a lot of time in these videos clearly teaching us (who are differently talented) to understand how to tackle projects like these. Yes, please, do the VVega RGB! I'm sure Sony's tech can be a whole different monster than JVC's, and it would be good to see how to approach something like this knowing where all the hot spots are to avoid (I'm already afraid of high voltages enough as is) let alone having 20k+ volts come out and bite you, I can imagine newer TVs like these also carry hot spots elsewhere in their circuitry and chassis. Yeah, when I learned about Sony having a humongous 40 inch CRT, I had to track one down locally, and got it for not much more than $20 (it sold at $3,500 new). Then I learned why it was so cheap, nobody wanted to lift that behemoth 325 lbs, being very awkwardly front weighted because of that THICK flat glass front. The XBR has one of the most beautiful high density displays 1080i/720p all at CRT depth and colors, but the only killer is the 100hz speed. Because I mainly wanted it for the biggest lightgun cabinet display, and I haven't found anywhere yet to switch the speed to 60hz. Though... my buddy had picked himself up a 40 inch Mitsubishi CRT, which has a curved glass front (much lighter) and being an earlier release TV, I believe it's more than likely a standard definition TV and at 60hz (perfect candidate for RGB mod). I've all but convinced him to give it to me, as he has not done anything with it in almost a decade. He's the buddy of mine who I made the Saturn mini arcade cabinet for, and I'll probably make him another nice custom cab to grease his release of that 40 Mitsu that I want. Always great to see something from you, I'll try to check in more frequently, though through all the rich tutorial content on UA-cam now, I am looking forward to that new VVega RGB video of yours. Clicking your channel's Bell Icon tab now! :)
@@The_SegaHolic Here's a 40 inch XBR displaying retro gaming-- ua-cam.com/video/4euXYR-fkB0/v-deo.html And a commercial for the 40 inch Mitsubishi I'm trying to acquire-- ua-cam.com/video/R82uXC218eQ/v-deo.html I've also picked up a 37 inch Trinitron HD CRT with a whole host of inputs (RCA/S-video/Component/DVI) that I'm using for a new racing arcade cabinet I'm building. Really looking forward to Retrovision's component cables for the Saturn and Dreamcast to connect to this beautiful display. And possibly even PC emulation of Sega AM2 racing games running through the DVI input.
In Eastern Europe we had TV's with only antenna inputs.The TVs that got composited moded were considered "monitors". We used RF TV-s for monitos anyways but having composite input was a real treat.Then it came the 90's and bam.Straight to RGB. not every TV had it tho. Early Samsung (mono), Deawoo and other cheap brand only included RCA.But some other cheap TV-s only came with scart.
Russia? Where exactly? I'm interested to know. Man, at least you guys got RGB at all. I've never seen a game on RGB on a CRT until now and I'm blown away!
@@The_SegaHolic I don't know much about Russian TV-s but here is a fun fact: They still made B&W CRT Tv-s in the 90's which design based on the 70's. Easten Europe exludes Russia. So the countries I'm talking about are the post Soviet ones. I'm from Hungary. But don't get me wrong. West Europeans got the same TV-s as we did (in the 90's). We had Sync on composite because that's what Scart could deliver. What we didn't had was the YCbCr signal. It was really rare.Only the last era CRT-s included or some really expensive Tv-s,and of course the early flat screen Tv-s.Currently that's the only way for me to recieve 1080i signal for my HD CRT.I'm using it with a PS4.
@@johncarnege Cool! I forgot what show I watched but it showed bootleg VHS tapes being like gold in the communist block. Sorry, I always pool Russia with the eastern most European countries. Yeah, YPbPr was a gift to the NTSC world for not giving us RGB. But I didn't know I'd be into CRT's this late in life. I used to look at 'em as garbage. LOL,
@@The_SegaHolic Bootleg VHS tapes were the only way to experience Western movies. If you want to take a look at a few. You can visit my channel. I uploaded a few clips and links to my Google Drive where I uploaded the full film.
@@Slammer661 instead of the two wire leads on one side for a capacitor, it would have the leads on both ends and be shaped like a common resistor, so it's easier to put in-line in a wire.
@@Slammer661 Like this one here: www.parts-express.com/47uF-450V-Polarized-Electrolytic-Axial-Capacitor-020-630?gclid=Cj0KCQiAgP6PBhDmARIsAPWMq6mC3zW7E4G8dqg35TGY3qABJnhiQmZHUBSBoXFHEvsBmqYnlCP0Ye8aAgJdEALw_wcB So for putting the .01uf or .1uf caps, it would be easier to use these... of course, get teh ceramic type.
Nope, incredibly, this TV didn’t need it. I was gonna go back and see if including the 75ohm terminators would improve things, but almost always, the video would be noisy and weird looking, letting you know the 75ohm resistors were left out.
Hey! That was at the height of toilet paper paranoia! I thought I was gonna get more comments on that. LOL. Yeah, watch my other two RGB mod videos, as it expands on this, and includes some of the stuff I left out.
You don't know the half of it! LOL. Thought this one was important though, so it was worth it to try and motivate people to try and experience this. I literally am blown away by RGB on a CRT. Again, much thanks for the motivational words. 🤙
It's a good thing you got bamboozled into the wonders of RGB! I wish I could get a PVM for $100. Can't even find them here in Hawaii. So this mod is for the rest of us. Upgrade? Size wise? 14" would be plenty enough for me. My first time witnessing RGB on a CRT myself... so I'm totally blown away. I an imagine what I'd be thinking when I see a PVM pr BVM.
Hey Sega! Love this video! Watching it has given me the confidence to mod the small JVC F Series I've had sitting on my desk here for a while now. The only thing I can't seem to find any detailed info on is how to properly ground the pinouts on the SCART socket there. Doesn't seem to be any clear info anywhere I have looked. I know here you wired it for JP21 and I'm familiar with the pinout differences. When wiring the ground on the socket are you just trailing from the original pin to the ground pin? I.e. soldering the R, G and B lines with a ground wire then trailing off to the respective ground pin? Any help/info would be greatly appreciated! Love your channel man! Keep up the good work!
Ground is just a shared common point. On the TV pcb, you can get it from where the outer sleeve of the rca jacks solder to the board. You can use any one of the many. It's a nice and big point to solder to. Use your conituity tester, and you can see all those points from the outer sleeves on the rca jacks are all connected, and should be also connected to the outer perimeter of the board. From the console side, you'll have to find the pinouts on the AV jack to see what is ground. Just google "CONSOLE av pinouts" where "CONSOLE" is the name of the console you are querrying. If you need further clarification, watch my Trinitron RGB mod video: ua-cam.com/video/z1T3XtbqFHU/v-deo.html You are essentially doing the same thing. Also watch my other RGB mod videos for TVs and it'll further your understanding. LMK if you need further help. 👍 Also let me know if you succeed in this. 🤙
In this particular mod, yes, because you're using the component input's green for sync. You could use a different input for sync, say composite, or luma on s-video if you wanted.
Woah this is very similar to the JVC N-series that we have in my country.(Philippines) Im not sure if i have the balls to do this but i'll see when i get a spare crt as they are getting pretty scarce in my area as the crt recycling center is in my location as well. Edit: Ah fk. I cant back out from this challenge. I managed to fix the crt pwb board by resoldering the cold joints. I know, pretty easy job but i found confidence in it.
@@The_SegaHolicEh kabayan. Ive seen some iArt here and there. Trinitrons goes for a high price but it's 90% composite here and most are imported surplus trash LG, Samsung and Daewoo from Korea.
I have this SAME TV.... Could I pay you to make the that entire wire harness to a scart connector so all I have to do is cut the jumpers, solder the 2 pin headers and the 5V then just mount the Switch and Scart? If so let me know..
Awesome tutorial. Now I just need to muster up the gumption to take this project on at some point. As far as quality goes, does direct scart input give a better video signal than something like a scart to component converter? Looks really nice in your video. I just snagged myself an AV-27D104 last night. Looking gorgeous so far!
I have RGB to component converters and direct rgb is better... wih much less tweaking to the settings. Don't take my word though, you should try it and see for yourself.
A positive reinforcing message from Retro Tech? WOW! Your videos helped me to combat my fear man! Thank you so much for your various helpful videos. Learned a ton from you.
@@The_SegaHolic Yeah man! Gotta have em all. Have the "This Is Cool" Saturn and a first gen Saturn along with that aforementioned V-Saturn. Have quite a few to go lol
@@mahdiyussuf9804 This is cool= Skeleton Saturn... two variations, 1st is regular, and 2nd is slightly different color- the "Derby Stallion Skeleton Saturn. 👍 Surprised you can afford to collect them now at the prices they are currently going for.
Woow fantastic but I do not understand that part where the menu appears without transparency, that I must connect so that the menu is always visible without transparency. Which cable should I connect? thanks
I'll try to make it quick. I want to add component jacks to a Sharp 25R-S100 to hook up a og Xbox or PS 2 to replicate a primal rage arcade. What ohm resistors should I use? A walkthrough digram will help alot. thanks.
Thank you, it took me like 4 views to understand the switch thingy, but i think i get it now, and i like this method better than the mux. i dont mind the switch. One question though, do you also use .75ohm resitorat the sync conection?
Watch the Sony Trinitron mod that I did recently. It expands on the ideas here, and will give you an even better understanding. But no, don't use 75 ohm resistors as they are already in the Y (green) component line, or composite (yellow) line for whichever you chose. ua-cam.com/video/z1T3XtbqFHU/v-deo.html For consumer TV's, this is sufficient.
I'm confused on the 5v to the ys section. I actually have almost the exact same board as you, close enough thats in the same service manual with minor differences. If I understand the 4dpt switch correctly, depending on sw position it will either send the signals from the a group or the signals from the c group to the b group. That means when we are in rgb mode (lets say group c), we are sending a 5v from wire 4c to wire 4b. From what I can tell the jungle ys input is expecting 1.2v to activate blanking and is rated for 1.5v (according to the japanese only datasheet). So if we are sending a 5v input directly to the ys on jungle wouldn't that be a problem? Should you do some voltage division? Few more questions: Instead of scart can I just have some rca connectors and solder the rgb cables in group c directly to the rca connectors? Did you not need 75ohm resistors for a clear image? If I need them would I connect one side to the rgb group c cables and one side to the rca connectors? If I'm not using scart can I just connect directly to the composite audio connectors? Any pointers on using the s-video for sync if composite doesn't work? Or am I better off on using the composite sync and adjusting in the service menu? Anything you would do different about this mod to make it easier?
Yeah, you're sending 5v to the chrom/jungle to blank the picture that is not the OSD. Sending 5v to the crhoma will not break the chip.Internally, the blanking input has high resistance so current will be low. You can try to sweep the voltage with a 10k pot, but it's really a waste of time. 2-5 volts have always been the answer with the various TV's I've tried. As far as s-video for sync, just wire your to the luma side of the s-video iput and you should be good, but usually there is a switch pin that needs to be closed.... hard to explain if you don't already know. Just use composite and do horizontal centering later and see how that goes. This is probably the easiest way to mod any TV.
@@Skoolkidsproduction yeah, whatever connectors u wanna use, as long as the wires that are attached to them go to where they are supposed to go. Watch my most recent vid, the Sony one, or the princess tv one that I did. I use aviation connectors on those.
I followed this tutorial on my JVC 27D302 and get a black screen on the RGB input. I sent you a PM on reddit with more details, really hoping you have a chance to get back to me. Thank you.
@@comp1demon yeah I figured out that I have a different jungle chip than him. This guide only applies to the very specific model he's showing and not other D Series. It's also risky advice, you should be coupling your RGB input signals with 0.1uF capacitors in series to make sure no DC voltage goes into the jungle and you need to terminate your inputs with 75ohms to ground... he just injects it straight in. Finally I would avoid doing this mod entirely because these Toshiba jungles are easy to burn out on the OSD inputs. Just buy an RGB to component transcoder and you will be happy. You can find a great one by linuxbot3000 on eBay. There's links to this stuff on my website crtdatabase.com/faq/av-equipment-reccomendations
Hello, I made the mod to a Grundig tv but for some reason connecting the sega genesis model 1 the image does not synchronize. the strange thing is that the PlayStation 1 and snes if they work perfectly when connecting them. Could you tell me if the timing of sega genesis is different? I tried with a variable resistance of 10kohm but when it is not long to achieve a stable image the screen turns dark and when increasing the resistance it loses its synchronism again. Help me please 😅
check to see if your PS1 and SNES is using Composite video, csync (composite sync), or Luma (S-Video). Your RGB cable for the Genesis is probably using a different sync signal to those two. Google the pinouts for those 2 consoles to find out. Now Google "genesis 1 pinouts" and you can see pin 1 is csync, and pin 2 is composite video. Use a a DMM to check continuity between your sync pin on the output part of your RGB cable and one of those two pins to find out what your Genesis RGB cable is using for sync. You'll have to probably buy a different RGB cable that is using the opposite of what your current RGB cable is using.
@@The_SegaHolic Thanks for your help! That was the problem, I was using the csync pin, but the correct pin was the composite video pin. I also had to add potentiometers to regulate the RGB signals to adjust the color. Now the image is amazing! I will have to make a dedicated RGB cable for my sega model 1. Is it necessary to put a 220uF cap? Or can I leave the direct signal from DIN?
The TV already had component video inputs, how different is the picture quality from this mod vs what you would get from the component inputs? This video is amazingly helpful. Thank you.
@JohnyTheWizKid Yea, component is already pretty good. RGB isn’t going to be very drastic. And yea, HD Retrovision are some of the best you can get. :)
Hello! I completed the rgb mod on my jvc. Everything looks great except that I find their is to much red. But can't lower colour. ( can only change brightness in rgb mode) Did I do an unknown mistake or is their a way to lower amount of Red?
@@carltremblay4376 Yes. If you go into the service menu, and depending what input you used for sync (component or composite), there are different brightness and contrast settings that will affect both the compnent and composite pictures independently. Though in you case, if you haven't messed with the service menu, then I think most likely you miswired something.
I finally got around redoing the mod On a different jvc and the image is great : my rgb cable was to blame. I got another question : I didn’t terminate to ground the red blue green . What effect does that do ? Should I redo it terminates to ground ?
first you used a breadboard(protoboard) to make some tests, but in the final product you leave the breadboard inside the tv? where are the terminated 75ohms when your rgb mod tv video ends?? i know they are in the rgb inlines and sync but did you use a board and leave it inside or not?
Very nice mod, looks like your magnetic screwdriver got a bit close to the top left corner of the screen in that Sega Rally footage though? :) I'm always more wary of the main power supply capacitor in these TVs, the tube is easy to discharge and gives a small crack but I've found the power supply capacitor can hold a charge longer and unleashes big fat screwdriver-welding sparks if shorted out even though it's only ~340V. I've been meaning to do a mod on a cheap TV I have which has a SCART socket but isn't actually wired for RGB. I was going to use a video switch IC so I could retain the original OSD as well without an external button, and would need to tap into the I²C bus to determine when the TV was connected to the external source instead of the internal tuner (plus pay attention to an additional logic level used by an internal video switch used to select between the composite input and an internal DVD player). Unfortunately it seemed like a lot of work for what is ultimately a pretty bad supermarket-own-brand TV set, so maybe the simplicity of your switch solution would be a better use of my time!
You noticed! Actually, it's the earth magnetic pole thing I saw a video on... I turned the TV around and it was gone. Stuff you don't notice when all we had were TV's. You just thought it was a defect. Great to hear from you man!
Nice and clean install SegaHolic. The picture looks good but doesn't really have those pronounced scanlines like in PVM's but definitely interesting RGB mod CRT tv project.🤙
20" consumer TV's will not have thick scanlines. But those PVM's definitely will. 27" ones will have the goods for the scanline connoisseur. Although I am surprised compared to the other 20" TV's I have that the scanlines are there in this one. It's There though, and I see it when I play. I should have taken macro shots to show them.
I ❤️ CRTs. I have a few HD CRTs laying around and you can never go wrong with putting them back into service. I haven't tried to RGB mod a CRT and I've seen other "tricked out" youtube video that involve reprogramming a CRT into a RGB, but this is definitely is good one for beginners. Regarding scanline, It depends on the crt's too because i've seen some sanyos and sonys that process plain 'ol composite signal with thick scanlines.
@@freddie9116 I love 'em too,. I 've seen the CRT light! I have a KV-27s42 sitting here, and a few others that can be RGB modded, so you'll see more from me. The Kv-27s42 should satisfy your scanline craving! LOL.
No, actually, I didnt in this case. Don’t know why, but in every other case that I’ve RGB modded, you need those 75ohm terminating resistor. Do a test with and without and see what works. Obviously at the breadboard testing stages. Yeah put it right at the scart input like I did with the other TV I did. Easiest if put there.
@@The_SegaHolic Awesome thx for the response, I am planning of doing a JVC 27D302 and Toshiba 20AF45 in a couple of weeks. Your videos are really detailed and help me a lot to understand the concept. Definitely using a breadboard to do this mod. Thx again and keep the awesome work.
LOL. Thanks man. You don't know how much I get told this. It's supposed to be entertaining enough to encourage you to try it. Wait 'till you see my next video. DROPPING SOON!
@@The_SegaHolic indeed.. thanks to this video I gave it a try and I already saved 2 crt from being send to trash.. I sold one already I read a looot, take courses online with a colombian old dude and bough multimeter, welder etc etc etc. THANK YOU
Really awesome work! I watched the whole video and am very impressed with the quality of the mod. I have been on the fence with trying this on my d series. How does the rgb compare to the component input if properly calibrated? I’m currently using an rgb to component converter on mine and am very curious.
Thanks! This video is made so you can scratch that itch and you can see for yourself how much of a difference there is. You really should see for yourself. And with RGB, there really is no color calibration other than white balance- adjusting the "drive" of each R G B color. So if your TV's white balance is OK, then once you see the RGB screen on your RGB modded TV, you'll be amazed I think at how balanced everything is. No processing on the signals! No conversion! IMO, you really should take that curiosity dive you to do this. I think you'll be surprised... positively surprised. The mod is easy enough to do. Do it!
One thing though, yours may need 75ohm termination on the RGB lines. Always test out on a breadboard. You can see how that's done wiith my latest video, a Sony Trinitron mod: ua-cam.com/video/z1T3XtbqFHU/v-deo.html
@@The_SegaHolic Thanks for the quick reply and words of encouragement! You pretty much said what I was thinking, as far as the color balance goes I'd like to see how this set looks in true rgb. I don't think i'd be able to get my install as clean looking as yours though! Also I'll check out the trinitron video too, as i'm inetrested to see how they compare.
@@theincrediblehark check out all my rgb mods as they build and expand on ideas and sometimes I explain stuff differently. You should get a real grasp of the mod, and you can pretty much apply this to many rgb moddable tvs.
Were you able to find the service manual somewhere without having to pay? I'm trying to get a service manual for a 32D503 and can only find a shady site charging 8 bucks for the pdf.
Hello, I loved your video, I wanted to make a mod for a "JVC AV T2912 TV with jungle TB1230N", but the colors don't come out, I connect it through a PC, could you help me? thank you so much!
Why would I want to mod it if it already has component inputs?, how about the cables after the mod, can I connect my retro consoles easily to this scart thing? SNES, N64, Gamecube etc.
Lol, I swear I’ve gotten this question or comment a million times here and on Reddit. It’s the million dollar question. I’ll address it in an upcoming vid.
I feel like this mod wasn't really even necessary considering this tv has a component input. An rgbs to ypbpr transcoder along with a scart switch box would be just as good and a lot more accessible by comparison for most people.
When it comes to CRTs, yes. However the whole situation with TV systems was kinda backwards. US - 60Hz NTSC games -> TVs without RGB support, EU - 50Hz PAL -> TVs with RGB
Bro this is awesome. Now my question is this. I have an unreliable arcade monitor that I don't want to spend the money to fix. Is it possible for me to mod a tv in place of my monitor for my Atomiswave? It just seems like it would make a lot more sense to do it this way instead of constantly dumping money into a monitor thats known to have issues.
@@The_SegaHolic I think it does. It’s switchable from 15 kHz to 31 kHz so a SD crt would work along with my pc that’s using a transcoder. Wish you offered this as a service!! I’d be more than happy to send my tv to you!!
Don't know as I don't have a PVM, although I wanted one for the past 5 years. That's why I did this mod. to at least see what RGB on a CRT looked like. I have a Framemesiter, and haven't used it for the past 2-3 years. Now, I will only be using it for gameplay capture. BTW, I modded a 13" Orion, and it looks almost as good as this. ua-cam.com/video/GRzYGI-4pkU/v-deo.html
@@johndee759 Welp, another vidoe was supposed to have dropped this morning and just waiting on YT to finish "Ad suitability," which is taking forever! It's a Trinitron mod.
@@anthonyaviles8665 The OSD still is available, just flip the switch. This is a 20" D-Series, and it's amazing... just did adjustments and it's now on another level! Scanlines everywhere!!!! HAHAHAHA.
They aren't bad! LOL. 😇 This is just an alternative. Some like the look of S-video and component. Brings back the memories as a kid. EVERYTHING has a use and shouldn't be dismissed. BTW, you should do this if you can.
@@The_SegaHolic All I knew was composhit (THE DEVIL!!!) n it's like I din't do s-vid until like 2012? Then I did have RGC's on-luma SCART for PS1. to-HDMI Erryone praises that flat scaled-up digitized nonsensei! Boobtube CRTs for LIFE!!! I've six now xD Though still haven't fired up the dinky Sharp that would be a good first project
@@The_SegaHolic Also sorry combed through vid and recently I missed out on a D man >.< This got an second s-vid in the front? I've almost a complete setup but that would definitely help me on trying out linking consoles Do have a Panasonic Tau just like this but she's all used up
@@mistamontiel00 Composite. actually looks pretty good on the newest CRT TV's. Get one with a good comb filter and you'll be amazed at. composite. No dot crawl...
Screw that! You can do this. Or get someone that can handle a soldering iron if you really can't and just show him/her this video. This really is easy stuff.
@@The_SegaHolic so the hardest part is finding a tv with the 2 chips instead of an all in one? i've soldered before but im afraid of getting shocked to death lol
@@mcpeepantz666 Most will have 2 chips. And just make sure the chroma/jungle has RGB inputs. You won't get shocked as long as you discharge that anode. Believe me when I say I was scared shitless my first time. But now, it's like ho-hum. Get the freebie TV's and practice on those. It's free, so you don't have to worry about messing them up.
@@mcpeepantz666 Oh, and keep you hands out of a live/on/plugged-in TV. And don't touch all kinds of places other than what you are intending to do. If you still are hesitant, just use thick nitrile gloves during handling of the board.
@@mcpeepantz666 Another great tip: After you discharged the CRT tube there might be power in some of the caps. So pick a screwdriver and touch the capacitor pin together.Only do this to the largest ones.
Hi. I looked up my board's schematic and it's using digital rgb for its osd i guess. drive.google.com/drive/folders/1DQead9mAPYXzTyYDOROapp6-mdJBVyeu?usp=sharing Can i somehow rewire/reroute the micon to use analog in the chroma? It's just beside it.
Yep, using digital RGB... not going to work with Analog RGB consoles. Sorry. Problem is, you Chroma accepts only digital RGB. Sometimes, a chroma chip will have dual capabiltiy of doing Digital or Analog, but you'll have to program it. You'll also have to add in some components from your analog source to the chroma- ie: putting in .1uf or .01uf dc filtering caps. Your best bet is to just find an RGBable TV.
![How To RGB Mod a Toshiba 27AF45 & Misc. Info [ep. 108]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4Ul-PjAly2k/mqdefault.jpg)
Please watch this in it's entirety... and I'll add the laundry list later...
wow, best RGB mod I ever seen. It is nice, it looks like made in factory from outside, and even inside is very smart and organized due the raster size of the PCB and dupont wiring! I'm European, so no RGB mod is required in my case. But this is nice idea for me how to put Raspberry Pi ZERO W into my TV with dupont! RPi ZERO W is cheap and have Bluetooth and WiFi connectivity. There is basic idea regarding this: ua-cam.com/video/EczUrViGAbE/v-deo.html This is fast method but results might be much more satisfying. If I will use some distro with RAM disk, by that I can decrease risk of any issues during boot of RPI. Picture can be better than compos%it, RPi ZERO W is RGB capable with GPIO pins, with BT & WiFi in addition to that might be nice modern, precious gadget in old-school CRT TV.
PS.: I heard that variable resistors instead of fixed ones might actually do better job. In our, Europe-specific projects variable resistors are placed inside RGB cable connector with knobs exposed outside. This might be useful when you play with different hardware, arcade PCB boards are good example in this case. Each producer in every board series used to change something regarding RGB output.
we need the laundry list now... :)
Aaron Stephens Damn. UA-camrs (some) listen to everything. Give me an hour or two. 😬
Hey man, i got the micron chip TB1238BN. This chip got a input for RGB? (i see something in the datasheet) i want make a RGB mod for my TV.. Is a Noblex 20tc627. You video useful and hopeful so much.. I need your help, please!!!
@@federicomercado1216 Looks like pins 14, 15, 16 are the RGB inputs, and pin 13 is Ys/m (blanking). Thanks for watching!
perfect video for new modders, you won't believe how much i learnt from just this one video. thanks for explaining absolutely everything!
This is incredibly helpful, I honestly can't thank you enough. I've been looking for a tutorial that goes into this amount of detail for a very long time, and luckily this general method seems like it would work with a lot of TVs that aren't D-Series as well.
Yeah, it's why I went overboard into repeating aspects of the mod several times. I'll be releasing more crt rgb mod vids that go into further detail. Hopefully... cause sometimes I'm lazy with the vid releases. LOL.
Most complete and detailed video... No... Most complete and detailed MEDIA ever about the subject. Thanks for all of the information poured in this video and for your time and effort put into it
Much thanks sir. Really appreciate that, as I' put a lot of thought and work into this video. Makes the effort worth it.
Man... such a cool mod! I need to make this happen for sure!! I appreciate the depth you got into. I feel like I could do this for sure!
Super easy. You'll wonder why you haven't tried it. Like I said, I was AFRAID for years. Now it's like ho-hum. Just always be careful you don't accidentally touch stuff when the TV's on. You'll notice. the picture quality right away and you really can't go back to an LCD later... at least for me. Any type. of lag is a killer, and you play so much better on a CRT.
Only a mod this well done deserves no complaints when you fully assemble it before testing everything again.
With the magic of YT, you donʻt see the repetitive testing 😬
Just found a 20” near me and am picking it up next week. Hope to god the geometry is as good as this one!
Don't sweat it man. While perfection is great, if it isn't perfect, just appreciate what you have. Just do your best to do what's possible to correct in the service menu and magnetic stips. Then enjoy what you have. Perfection is overrated.
That was a crazy arc @ 6:22 ! Made me jump in my chair! You da man, nice work!
UselessGamer LOL
You mentioned a detailed video on reddit, and you delivered 👍
Excellent work Segaholic. Looking forward to the next vid.
Yeah, gonna do a Sony this time for the Trinitron fanboys and their "Scanline" habit. LOL.
BTW, you gonna do this?
The SegaHolic there isn’t a tv i got right now that would be worth modding, but if i come up on a d series, I’ll consider it. Especially with your thorough video to guide me.
@@RichHomieBodhi I think any CRT is worth it, especially since it's so easy to do.
I know this is from a year ago but, dang, what a clean & tidy mod!
Thanks!
Some tvs with processor and jungle integrated can be modded to have rgb, those tvs accept rgb signals through it's Component in. The mileage varies. Other tvs can't be modded when their OSD rgb input is digital. Nice video.
Thanks man. 🤙
I've heard you can convert the analog signal to digital for those, but would that add input lag?
Best CRT RGB MOD step tutorial in m opinion.
Much thanks! Really appreciate that. Means tons!
Is there any benefit with the rgb mod over just using the component inputs and a rgb to component transcoder?
Probably not much benefit, at least not that we could easily discern.
@@davidbenning10 yeah. I ended up doing an experiment myself. I made a UA-cam video on it. I came to the conclusion that, when calibrated properly, component looks identical to rgb. I didn't use a transcoder in my video though. I used a monitor that takes rgb and component with a ps2.
Both the mod and video are top quality. Amazing job.
Much thanks! You’ve cheered up my day. Thanks again!
dude amazing video, really what I needed to take my mind off current state of the world.
Thanks, you thinking of doing this or have you already done one?
I have this EXACT TV and I've been wanting to do this mod. Thank you! I also JUST picked up an AV-32D500, so hopefully it's the same for that :).
whats the difference between the d202 vs the d501?
@@raymondrodrigues8351 The D500 I have has a black case, instead of the silver one. I have not opened it up to see what's inside to see if there are differences. I also have a 27" D-Series that also has a silver case, so I'll be doing the mod on that one too.
@@raymondrodrigues8351 the 01 means manufactured in 2000, 02 means 2001. The 5 series has Picture in Picture, an illuminated remote and the 501 in particular has an extra S-Video input (they removed it from later ones). Otherwise they are basically the same.
@@jeffjohnson3099 They were all black in 2000/2001. They changed the 500 series to Silver after that but kept the 200 series black and added a 300 series that was identical but silver.
Brother, you're always awesome!
Thanks for making a video even like this, using your superpowers to teach us mortals how to do this nice mod, for those of us in the States who didn't have the better definition RGB Scart TVs.
I have a huge 40" Trinitron VVega XBR that I would like to bypass all of the lag inducing processing and tap straight into the RGB, maybe even hopefully affect the signal timing too to 60hz instead of the 100hz so I can use my lightguns on it also.
Wow, didn't know 40"ers existed. But damn, its been a long time Swankey! Superpowers? LOL. I'll be making a Wega RGB vdieo soon, should be out within a week as it's been requested by a few viewers. As for the processing and disabling... that, you're gonna have to ask someone with more knowledge on that. Sorry. But great to hear from you again!
@@The_SegaHolic Yeah! Sorry man, I've been edumacatin' myself with so many helpful videos out there I'm racking up those 'UA-cam Doctorates', I kinda get lost in all of them, that it sidetracks me from the friends (as yourself) in the community. I saw this video pop up in my recommended interests, and then I was like, *Dude... SegaHolic!*
Again, sorry brother. You do have the best and most helpful stuff, and it's apparent you invest a lot of time in these videos clearly teaching us (who are differently talented) to understand how to tackle projects like these.
Yes, please, do the VVega RGB! I'm sure Sony's tech can be a whole different monster than JVC's, and it would be good to see how to approach something like this knowing where all the hot spots are to avoid (I'm already afraid of high voltages enough as is) let alone having 20k+ volts come out and bite you, I can imagine newer TVs like these also carry hot spots elsewhere in their circuitry and chassis.
Yeah, when I learned about Sony having a humongous 40 inch CRT, I had to track one down locally, and got it for not much more than $20 (it sold at $3,500 new). Then I learned why it was so cheap, nobody wanted to lift that behemoth 325 lbs, being very awkwardly front weighted because of that THICK flat glass front. The XBR has one of the most beautiful high density displays 1080i/720p all at CRT depth and colors, but the only killer is the 100hz speed. Because I mainly wanted it for the biggest lightgun cabinet display, and I haven't found anywhere yet to switch the speed to 60hz.
Though... my buddy had picked himself up a 40 inch Mitsubishi CRT, which has a curved glass front (much lighter) and being an earlier release TV, I believe it's more than likely a standard definition TV and at 60hz (perfect candidate for RGB mod). I've all but convinced him to give it to me, as he has not done anything with it in almost a decade. He's the buddy of mine who I made the Saturn mini arcade cabinet for, and I'll probably make him another nice custom cab to grease his release of that 40 Mitsu that I want.
Always great to see something from you, I'll try to check in more frequently, though through all the rich tutorial content on UA-cam now, I am looking forward to that new VVega RGB video of yours.
Clicking your channel's Bell Icon tab now! :)
@@The_SegaHolic Here's a 40 inch XBR displaying retro gaming--
ua-cam.com/video/4euXYR-fkB0/v-deo.html
And a commercial for the 40 inch Mitsubishi I'm trying to acquire--
ua-cam.com/video/R82uXC218eQ/v-deo.html
I've also picked up a 37 inch Trinitron HD CRT with a whole host of inputs (RCA/S-video/Component/DVI) that I'm using for a new racing arcade cabinet I'm building. Really looking forward to Retrovision's component cables for the Saturn and Dreamcast to connect to this beautiful display. And possibly even PC emulation of Sega AM2 racing games running through the DVI input.
@@SwankeyMonkey I have a 36" Wega I got a couple years back. Near 250lbs. Me and this older guy nearly died carrying it the vehicle. LOL.
In Eastern Europe we had TV's with only antenna inputs.The TVs that got composited moded were considered "monitors". We used RF TV-s for monitos anyways but having composite input was a real treat.Then it came the 90's and bam.Straight to RGB. not every TV had it tho. Early Samsung (mono), Deawoo and other cheap brand only included RCA.But some other cheap TV-s only came with scart.
Russia? Where exactly? I'm interested to know. Man, at least you guys got RGB at all. I've never seen a game on RGB on a CRT until now and I'm blown away!
@@The_SegaHolic I don't know much about Russian TV-s but here is a fun fact: They still made B&W CRT Tv-s in the 90's which design based on the 70's.
Easten Europe exludes Russia. So the countries I'm talking about are the post Soviet ones. I'm from Hungary. But don't get me wrong. West Europeans got the same TV-s as we did (in the 90's). We had Sync on composite because that's what Scart could deliver.
What we didn't had was the YCbCr signal. It was really rare.Only the last era CRT-s included or some really expensive Tv-s,and of course the early flat screen Tv-s.Currently that's the only way for me to recieve 1080i signal for my HD CRT.I'm using it with a PS4.
@@johncarnege Cool! I forgot what show I watched but it showed bootleg VHS tapes being like gold in the communist block. Sorry, I always pool Russia with the eastern most European countries. Yeah, YPbPr was a gift to the NTSC world for not giving us RGB. But I didn't know I'd be into CRT's this late in life. I used to look at 'em as garbage. LOL,
@@The_SegaHolic Bootleg VHS tapes were the only way to experience Western movies. If you want to take a look at a few. You can visit my channel. I uploaded a few clips and links to my Google Drive where I uploaded the full film.
Do you leave the bread board inside the tv or do you only use it for testing
Only for testing. You can buy axial components so you can solder them inline with your wires or crimp them to connectors.
Axial components, I tried looking that up and nothing.are those the rods the caps and resistor are attached to?
@@Slammer661 instead of the two wire leads on one side for a capacitor, it would have the leads on both ends and be shaped like a common resistor, so it's easier to put in-line in a wire.
@@Slammer661 Like this one here:
www.parts-express.com/47uF-450V-Polarized-Electrolytic-Axial-Capacitor-020-630?gclid=Cj0KCQiAgP6PBhDmARIsAPWMq6mC3zW7E4G8dqg35TGY3qABJnhiQmZHUBSBoXFHEvsBmqYnlCP0Ye8aAgJdEALw_wcB
So for putting the .01uf or .1uf caps, it would be easier to use these... of course, get teh ceramic type.
What an awesome and detailed tutorial, enormously helpful!
GREAT JOB MAN!
🔥❤🔥
Thanks dude.
I great re-watching your vids to get ready for my TV Mod bro. I need the music at 6:35 lol
Jimmy Fontanez/Media Right Productions - Cha Cappella
Available on UA-cam free music
@@The_SegaHolic 🙏🙏🙏
@@xLSDxUCSB LOL. Enjoy using the track.
I see you didn't include the terminating resistors and capacitors on the RGB lines in the JVC mod, or did I not notice?
Nope, incredibly, this TV didn’t need it. I was gonna go back and see if including the 75ohm terminators would improve things, but almost always, the video would be noisy and weird looking, letting you know the 75ohm resistors were left out.
Need toilet paper 😂 Love your quirky humour and thorough explanations, really helps me a lot to understand how to do a mod like this professionally
Hey! That was at the height of toilet paper paranoia! I thought I was gonna get more comments on that. LOL. Yeah, watch my other two RGB mod videos, as it expands on this, and includes some of the stuff I left out.
Man I had so much fun watching this video. Thank you very much, must have been a lot of work! The tutorial was on point! :)
You don't know the half of it! LOL. Thought this one was important though, so it was worth it to try and motivate people to try and experience this. I literally am blown away by RGB on a CRT. Again, much thanks for the motivational words. 🤙
Neat and tidy, as always and just how I like it !
Great job mate
Much thanks!
Eyyyyyy awesome stuff man I recently got suckered into the pvm community and im loving my pvm14m4u and I hope to upgrade soon
It's a good thing you got bamboozled into the wonders of RGB! I wish I could get a PVM for $100. Can't even find them here in Hawaii. So this mod is for the rest of us. Upgrade? Size wise? 14" would be plenty enough for me. My first time witnessing RGB on a CRT myself... so I'm totally blown away. I an imagine what I'd be thinking when I see a PVM pr BVM.
Hey Sega! Love this video! Watching it has given me the confidence to mod the small JVC F Series I've had sitting on my desk here for a while now. The only thing I can't seem to find any detailed info on is how to properly ground the pinouts on the SCART socket there. Doesn't seem to be any clear info anywhere I have looked. I know here you wired it for JP21 and I'm familiar with the pinout differences. When wiring the ground on the socket are you just trailing from the original pin to the ground pin? I.e. soldering the R, G and B lines with a ground wire then trailing off to the respective ground pin? Any help/info would be greatly appreciated! Love your channel man! Keep up the good work!
Ground is just a shared common point. On the TV pcb, you can get it from where the outer sleeve of the rca jacks solder to the board. You can use any one of the many. It's a nice and big point to solder to. Use your conituity tester, and you can see all those points from the outer sleeves on the rca jacks are all connected, and should be also connected to the outer perimeter of the board.
From the console side, you'll have to find the pinouts on the AV jack to see what is ground. Just google "CONSOLE av pinouts" where "CONSOLE" is the name of the console you are querrying.
If you need further clarification, watch my Trinitron RGB mod video:
ua-cam.com/video/z1T3XtbqFHU/v-deo.html
You are essentially doing the same thing. Also watch my other RGB mod videos for TVs and it'll further your understanding.
LMK if you need further help. 👍 Also let me know if you succeed in this. 🤙
If I would want to connect component cables at the same time, would the green cable interfere with the sync on the modded RGB port?
In this particular mod, yes, because you're using the component input's green for sync. You could use a different input for sync, say composite, or luma on s-video if you wanted.
Woah this is very similar to the JVC N-series that we have in my country.(Philippines)
Im not sure if i have the balls to do this but i'll see when i get a spare crt as they are getting pretty scarce in my area as the crt recycling center is in my location as well.
Edit: Ah fk. I cant back out from this challenge.
I managed to fix the crt pwb board by resoldering the cold joints. I know, pretty easy job but i found confidence in it.
Interesting... I'm Filipino, so it'll be interesting if I can find CRT's there if I ever visit my parent's homeland again.
@@The_SegaHolicEh kabayan. Ive seen some iArt here and there.
Trinitrons goes for a high price but it's 90% composite here and most are imported surplus trash LG, Samsung and Daewoo from Korea.
I have this SAME TV....
Could I pay you to make the that entire wire harness to a scart connector so all I have to do is cut the jumpers, solder the 2 pin headers and the 5V then just mount the Switch and Scart? If so let me know..
Kinda busy right now. Leave me a message here on UA-cam in a week, and I’m let you know.
It's good you are precautious. It looks dangerous with the discharges. Great video as always :)
Once you discharge it, it's pretty safe.
Awesome tutorial. Now I just need to muster up the gumption to take this project on at some point. As far as quality goes, does direct scart input give a better video signal than something like a scart to component converter? Looks really nice in your video. I just snagged myself an AV-27D104 last night. Looking gorgeous so far!
I have RGB to component converters and direct rgb is better... wih much less tweaking to the settings. Don't take my word though, you should try it and see for yourself.
Hey man! Great job. Keep it up.
A positive reinforcing message from Retro Tech? WOW! Your videos helped me to combat my fear man! Thank you so much for your various helpful videos. Learned a ton from you.
This may be a dumb question but why don't you just input the rgb connection into the DVD jacks on the back?
Nice V-Saturns! You got em both
There's 3 versions
@@The_SegaHolic Looks like I need 2 more. I got the first one in this video
@@mahdiyussuf9804 lol... u really “need” it?
@@The_SegaHolic Yeah man! Gotta have em all. Have the "This Is Cool" Saturn and a first gen Saturn along with that aforementioned V-Saturn. Have quite a few to go lol
@@mahdiyussuf9804 This is cool= Skeleton Saturn... two variations, 1st is regular, and 2nd is slightly different color- the "Derby Stallion Skeleton Saturn. 👍 Surprised you can afford to collect them now at the prices they are currently going for.
My tv is a 29FS4RLG TV, I am in doubt if the input of pin 82 blkin is where I put the 5v ???
This is awesome you are very talented at you’re work!!! I would love to mod my crt but it’s so big it takes like 3 people to move it😂😂😂
Thanks, but I don't consider this work. It's fun! Put your TV on something with wheels. You can take the cover off with the TV upright.
Woow fantastic but I do not understand that part where the menu appears without transparency, that I must connect so that the menu is always visible without transparency. Which cable should I connect? thanks
Just ignore that part and wire it up like I explain in the last half of the video.
until now dont understand what the difference between ys/ym voltage?
someone can explain?
why he flip the test lead?its necessary?
Why not use the mux method to keep the osd with the rgb signal?
Even though it already has component, why does it need to be modded still for rgb?
Because component is not RGB.
... and component does not have the color accuracy of RGB....
Do you know if this can be done on a JVC K-Series?
Not sure. You'll have to look inside, otherwise, get the service manual.
I'll try to make it quick. I want to add component jacks to a Sharp 25R-S100 to hook up a og Xbox or PS 2 to replicate a primal rage arcade. What ohm resistors should I use? A walkthrough digram will help alot. thanks.
This is still helpful even if you don't have a D-Series
Thanks, yeah, it's what I inteded.
whats the difference between the model D202 vs the D501?
Nice explanation. My tv doesn't have the service manual online but I may be able to just read the chip number and look it up.
Do it!
Thank you, it took me like 4 views to understand the switch thingy, but i think i get it now, and i like this method better than the mux. i dont mind the switch. One question though, do you also use .75ohm resitorat the sync conection?
Watch the Sony Trinitron mod that I did recently. It expands on the ideas here, and will give you an even better understanding. But no, don't use 75 ohm resistors as they are already in the Y (green) component line, or composite (yellow) line for whichever you chose.
ua-cam.com/video/z1T3XtbqFHU/v-deo.html
For consumer TV's, this is sufficient.
I'm confused on the 5v to the ys section. I actually have almost the exact same board as you, close enough thats in the same service manual with minor differences.
If I understand the 4dpt switch correctly, depending on sw position it will either send the signals from the a group or the signals from the c group to the b group. That means when we are in rgb mode (lets say group c), we are sending a 5v from wire 4c to wire 4b.
From what I can tell the jungle ys input is expecting 1.2v to activate blanking and is rated for 1.5v (according to the japanese only datasheet).
So if we are sending a 5v input directly to the ys on jungle wouldn't that be a problem? Should you do some voltage division?
Few more questions:
Instead of scart can I just have some rca connectors and solder the rgb cables in group c directly to the rca connectors?
Did you not need 75ohm resistors for a clear image? If I need them would I connect one side to the rgb group c cables and one side to the rca connectors?
If I'm not using scart can I just connect directly to the composite audio connectors?
Any pointers on using the s-video for sync if composite doesn't work? Or am I better off on using the composite sync and adjusting in the service menu?
Anything you would do different about this mod to make it easier?
Yeah, you're sending 5v to the chrom/jungle to blank the picture that is not the OSD. Sending 5v to the crhoma will not break the chip.Internally, the blanking input has high resistance so current will be low. You can try to sweep the voltage with a 10k pot, but it's really a waste of time. 2-5 volts have always been the answer with the various TV's I've tried.
As far as s-video for sync, just wire your to the luma side of the s-video iput and you should be good, but usually there is a switch pin that needs to be closed.... hard to explain if you don't already know. Just use composite and do horizontal centering later and see how that goes.
This is probably the easiest way to mod any TV.
@@The_SegaHolic Using rca connectors instead of scart would work too right?
@@Skoolkidsproduction yeah, whatever connectors u wanna use, as long as the wires that are attached to them go to where they are supposed to go. Watch my most recent vid, the Sony one, or the princess tv one that I did. I use aviation connectors on those.
I followed this tutorial on my JVC 27D302 and get a black screen on the RGB input. I sent you a PM on reddit with more details, really hoping you have a chance to get back to me. Thank you.
Ever figure it out?
@@comp1demon yeah I figured out that I have a different jungle chip than him. This guide only applies to the very specific model he's showing and not other D Series. It's also risky advice, you should be coupling your RGB input signals with 0.1uF capacitors in series to make sure no DC voltage goes into the jungle and you need to terminate your inputs with 75ohms to ground... he just injects it straight in. Finally I would avoid doing this mod entirely because these Toshiba jungles are easy to burn out on the OSD inputs. Just buy an RGB to component transcoder and you will be happy. You can find a great one by linuxbot3000 on eBay. There's links to this stuff on my website crtdatabase.com/faq/av-equipment-reccomendations
Nice job, opening up a crt is scary
Becomes not so scary later. You’ll be wondering why you were scared.
Great video! You are a great teacher!
Thanks man. No seriously, really appreciate you commenting. You don't know how much it motivates me to get on to the next video. 👍
Thank you for making this. I also liked the music.
LOL. There's someone out there that is going nuts from it.
How did you make the tv shows osd overlay even in rgb mode?
You need to go to the Shmups forums. I only do things the old way.
@@The_SegaHolic SO the results in your video at the end are not conducive of the work you showed?
@@comp1demon he’s mentioning another way to mod .
@@comp1demon The video on the TV is not altered.
Hello, I made the mod to a Grundig tv but for some reason connecting the sega genesis model 1 the image does not synchronize. the strange thing is that the PlayStation 1 and snes if they work perfectly when connecting them. Could you tell me if the timing of sega genesis is different? I tried with a variable resistance of 10kohm but when it is not long to achieve a stable image the screen turns dark and when increasing the resistance it loses its synchronism again. Help me please 😅
check to see if your PS1 and SNES is using Composite video, csync (composite sync), or Luma (S-Video). Your RGB cable for the Genesis is probably using a different sync signal to those two. Google the pinouts for those 2 consoles to find out. Now Google "genesis 1 pinouts" and you can see pin 1 is csync, and pin 2 is composite video. Use a a DMM to check continuity between your sync pin on the output part of your RGB cable and one of those two pins to find out what your Genesis RGB cable is using for sync. You'll have to probably buy a different RGB cable that is using the opposite of what your current RGB cable is using.
@@The_SegaHolic Thanks for your help! That was the problem, I was using the csync pin, but the correct pin was the composite video pin. I also had to add potentiometers to regulate the RGB signals to adjust the color. Now the image is amazing! I will have to make a dedicated RGB cable for my sega model 1. Is it necessary to put a 220uF cap? Or can I leave the direct signal from DIN?
The TV already had component video inputs, how different is the picture quality from this mod vs what you would get from the component inputs? This video is amazingly helpful. Thank you.
That's exactly what I'm wondering. I have component cables from HD Retrovision. Ain't that all you need?
@JohnyTheWizKid Yea, component is already pretty good. RGB isn’t going to be very drastic. And yea, HD Retrovision are some of the best you can get. :)
😊😊🤷♂🤷♂ for one hawain guy your ultra smart and ur nerding out here u know your stuff pal this is awsom that this make sence to you :D
Hello!
I completed the rgb mod on my jvc.
Everything looks great except that I find their is to much red. But can't lower colour. ( can only change brightness in rgb mode)
Did I do an unknown mistake or is their a way to lower amount of Red?
U definitely did something wrong. Double check your work.
@@The_SegaHolic will do.
I'm open to any theories of yours.
Thanks for the quick response
If i said the image is also dark when I go back to normal mode.
Does that give a hint to the problem?
@@carltremblay4376 Yes. If you go into the service menu, and depending what input you used for sync (component or composite), there are different brightness and contrast settings that will affect both the compnent and composite pictures independently. Though in you case, if you haven't messed with the service menu, then I think most likely you miswired something.
I finally got around redoing the mod
On a different jvc and the image is great
: my rgb cable was to blame.
I got another question : I didn’t terminate to ground the red blue green .
What effect does that do ? Should I redo it terminates to ground ?
first you used a breadboard(protoboard) to make some tests, but in the final product you leave the breadboard inside the tv? where are the terminated 75ohms when your rgb mod tv video ends?? i know they are in the rgb inlines and sync but did you use a board and leave it inside or not?
Outstanding guide! Thanks!
Glad it helped!
great videos man! is there a way to remote instruct me while im moding my trintron? if yes, how much you charge :)
The video is pretty detailed. You can contact me on Twitter… @The_SegaHolic if you have any issues.
@@The_SegaHolic THX MAN! Is the RGB MOD even relevant if i just connecting my computer via HDMI 2AV to the CRT to view Videos?
@@caesarblanko1399 colors and definition should be better.
@@The_SegaHolic god bless you, i need this, halelulia
@@caesarblanko1399 DO IT!
Very nice mod, looks like your magnetic screwdriver got a bit close to the top left corner of the screen in that Sega Rally footage though? :)
I'm always more wary of the main power supply capacitor in these TVs, the tube is easy to discharge and gives a small crack but I've found the power supply capacitor can hold a charge longer and unleashes big fat screwdriver-welding sparks if shorted out even though it's only ~340V.
I've been meaning to do a mod on a cheap TV I have which has a SCART socket but isn't actually wired for RGB. I was going to use a video switch IC so I could retain the original OSD as well without an external button, and would need to tap into the I²C bus to determine when the TV was connected to the external source instead of the internal tuner (plus pay attention to an additional logic level used by an internal video switch used to select between the composite input and an internal DVD player). Unfortunately it seemed like a lot of work for what is ultimately a pretty bad supermarket-own-brand TV set, so maybe the simplicity of your switch solution would be a better use of my time!
You noticed! Actually, it's the earth magnetic pole thing I saw a video on... I turned the TV around and it was gone. Stuff you don't notice when all we had were TV's. You just thought it was a defect. Great to hear from you man!
Welcome back friend
Never went anywhere! You know I have major lulls. LOL
Nice and clean install SegaHolic. The picture looks good but doesn't really have those pronounced scanlines like in PVM's but definitely interesting RGB mod CRT tv project.🤙
20" consumer TV's will not have thick scanlines. But those PVM's definitely will. 27" ones will have the goods for the scanline connoisseur. Although I am surprised compared to the other 20" TV's I have that the scanlines are there in this one. It's There though, and I see it when I play. I should have taken macro shots to show them.
I ❤️ CRTs. I have a few HD CRTs laying around and you can never go wrong with putting them back into service. I haven't tried to RGB mod a CRT and I've seen other "tricked out" youtube video that involve reprogramming a CRT into a RGB, but this is definitely is good one for beginners. Regarding scanline, It depends on the crt's too because i've seen some sanyos and sonys that process plain 'ol composite signal with thick scanlines.
@@freddie9116 I love 'em too,. I 've seen the CRT light! I have a KV-27s42 sitting here, and a few others that can be RGB modded, so you'll see more from me. The Kv-27s42 should satisfy your scanline craving! LOL.
Awesome video. Quick question, Did you use any 75 ohm resistors? I notice you explain about it, but didn't see it on the final switch or scart female.
No, actually, I didnt in this case. Don’t know why, but in every other case that I’ve RGB modded, you need those 75ohm terminating resistor. Do a test with and without and see what works. Obviously at the breadboard testing stages. Yeah put it right at the scart input like I did with the other TV I did. Easiest if put there.
@@The_SegaHolic Awesome thx for the response, I am planning of doing a JVC 27D302 and Toshiba 20AF45 in a couple of weeks. Your videos are really detailed and help me a lot to understand the concept. Definitely using a breadboard to do this mod. Thx again and keep the awesome work.
@@ifu512 Those Orion Toshibas ate easy to work with. Should have no issues.
wow .. i watched the whole video and i dong even know how to open a CRT but it was very entertaining to watch haha
LOL. Thanks man. You don't know how much I get told this. It's supposed to be entertaining enough to encourage you to try it. Wait 'till you see my next video. DROPPING SOON!
@@The_SegaHolic indeed.. thanks to this video I gave it a try and I already saved 2 crt from being send to trash.. I sold one already
I read a looot, take courses online with a colombian old dude and bough multimeter, welder etc etc etc. THANK YOU
Where are you located?
Hawaii.
Really awesome work! I watched the whole video and am very impressed with the quality of the mod. I have been on the fence with trying this on my d series. How does the rgb compare to the component input if properly calibrated? I’m currently using an rgb to component converter on mine and am very curious.
Thanks! This video is made so you can scratch that itch and you can see for yourself how much of a difference there is. You really should see for yourself. And with RGB, there really is no color calibration other than white balance- adjusting the "drive" of each R G B color. So if your TV's white balance is OK, then once you see the RGB screen on your RGB modded TV, you'll be amazed I think at how balanced everything is. No processing on the signals! No conversion! IMO, you really should take that curiosity dive you to do this. I think you'll be surprised... positively surprised.
The mod is easy enough to do. Do it!
One thing though, yours may need 75ohm termination on the RGB lines. Always test out on a breadboard. You can see how that's done wiith my latest video, a Sony Trinitron mod:
ua-cam.com/video/z1T3XtbqFHU/v-deo.html
@@The_SegaHolic Thanks for the quick reply and words of encouragement! You pretty much said what I was thinking, as far as the color balance goes I'd like to see how this set looks in true rgb. I don't think i'd be able to get my install as clean looking as yours though! Also I'll check out the trinitron video too, as i'm inetrested to see how they compare.
@@theincrediblehark check out all my rgb mods as they build and expand on ideas and sometimes I explain stuff differently. You should get a real grasp of the mod, and you can pretty much apply this to many rgb moddable tvs.
Were you able to find the service manual somewhere without having to pay? I'm trying to get a service manual for a 32D503 and can only find a shady site charging 8 bucks for the pdf.
Look in the back of the TV if there is a "Chasis #" and google that.
Hello, I loved your video, I wanted to make a mod for a "JVC AV T2912 TV with jungle TB1230N", but the colors don't come out, I connect it through a PC, could you help me? thank you so much!
Why would I want to mod it if it already has component inputs?, how about the cables after the mod, can I connect my retro consoles easily to this scart thing? SNES, N64, Gamecube etc.
Lol, I swear I’ve gotten this question or comment a million times here and on Reddit. It’s the million dollar question. I’ll address it in an upcoming vid.
Its the same music whenever DISH has me on hold.
Awesome right! You're a lucky dude to be able to enjoy it frequently.
@@The_SegaHolic It gets me ready whenever before I have to threaten cancellation.
JVC AV-27D303 have the same board layout as the one you modded in the video?
Great work by the way!
Find the service manual and cross reference.
The SegaHolic found RGB out but no in 😢
@@MartyMcFly879 Do you have that 27" D-series? If so, wait a bit, and I can help you out. I'm at work.
The SegaHolic yup I have it, sounds great thanks!
@@MartyMcFly879 Sadly, you're right. This uses a "1-chip" or where the Micon and Chroma chips are combined. Condolences...
Wow. Where are you located?
Hawaii
@@The_SegaHolic oh wow you live close to JammanationX
@@johndee759 Who’s that? U from Hawaii too?
@@The_SegaHolic I am not. Jamma Nation X makes the legendary superguns and cmvs.
@@johndee759 You living in Hawaii though? You wouldn't happen to be the guy selling all the cool stuff on FBM?
Can I rgb mod my JVC AV-21YMG7 ?
I feel like this mod wasn't really even necessary considering this tv has a component input. An rgbs to ypbpr transcoder along with a scart switch box would be just as good and a lot more accessible by comparison for most people.
UK CRTs have scart socket on them so this video is useless to me but like watching your videos.
LOL. You guys got it easy....
When it comes to CRTs, yes. However the whole situation with TV systems was kinda backwards. US - 60Hz NTSC games -> TVs without RGB support, EU - 50Hz PAL -> TVs with RGB
@@phead2137 But later in the 90's many TV-s accepted NTSC signals as well. Sony,LG and other expensive TV-s.
Perfect geometry
Not perfect. LOL. But still great. 👍
Bro this is awesome. Now my question is this. I have an unreliable arcade monitor that I don't want to spend the money to fix. Is it possible for me to mod a tv in place of my monitor for my Atomiswave? It just seems like it would make a lot more sense to do it this way instead of constantly dumping money into a monitor thats known to have issues.
As long as the Atomiswave outputs 240p or 480i. You’ll also want to measure the output levels and make sure they are .7vpp or 1vpp.
@@The_SegaHolic I think it does. It’s switchable from 15 kHz to 31 kHz so a SD crt would work along with my pc that’s using a transcoder. Wish you offered this as a service!! I’d be more than happy to send my tv to you!!
Pvm vs this mod how does the picture compare? Excellent video editing skills btw.
Don't know as I don't have a PVM, although I wanted one for the past 5 years. That's why I did this mod. to at least see what RGB on a CRT looked like. I have a Framemesiter, and haven't used it for the past 2-3 years. Now, I will only be using it for gameplay capture. BTW, I modded a 13" Orion, and it looks almost as good as this.
ua-cam.com/video/GRzYGI-4pkU/v-deo.html
You're the man
🤙
Bout time u loaded a video dude how u been
Yo Jose! Doin great!
Cool bossa nova
Love Jazz.
@@The_SegaHolic would love to rgb mod the consumer crt. Right now using the shinybow.
@@johndee759 Welp, another vidoe was supposed to have dropped this morning and just waiting on YT to finish "Ad suitability," which is taking forever! It's a Trinitron mod.
@@The_SegaHolic is there a mod for the fv310?
18:50 that was intense.
Got me hyped!
I did that to a 36 inch Sony TV and the picture quality is amazing I'm trying to find a jvc d series in a 20 inch to a 27 inch not to do what u did
I also did the mux method with the diodes and the resistors to still have the osd available
@@anthonyaviles8665 The OSD still is available, just flip the switch. This is a 20" D-Series, and it's amazing... just did adjustments and it's now on another level! Scanlines everywhere!!!! HAHAHAHA.
But but but why are non-ED component n s-vid bad L0L kidding stellar work my man!!
They aren't bad! LOL. 😇 This is just an alternative. Some like the look of S-video and component. Brings back the memories as a kid. EVERYTHING has a use and shouldn't be dismissed. BTW, you should do this if you can.
@@The_SegaHolic All I knew was composhit (THE DEVIL!!!) n it's like I din't do s-vid until like 2012? Then I did have RGC's on-luma SCART for PS1. to-HDMI
Erryone praises that flat scaled-up digitized nonsensei! Boobtube CRTs for LIFE!!! I've six now xD Though still haven't fired up the dinky Sharp that would be a good first project
@@The_SegaHolic Also sorry combed through vid and recently I missed out on a D man >.< This got an second s-vid in the front? I've almost a complete setup but that would definitely help me on trying out linking consoles
Do have a Panasonic Tau just like this but she's all used up
@@mistamontiel00 Composite. actually looks pretty good on the newest CRT TV's. Get one with a good comb filter and you'll be amazed at. composite. No dot crawl...
@@The_SegaHolic Think y'should post this in CRT Collective FB group, they will go bananas
Superb show as always!!
I'll nod mine when you upload the video of a sony wega
Soon. Someone requested it. It will be next. 2 Orion vids that is already shot. Then the Sony
Wow.
Narrated by the Mandalorian 😊
This is the way... (in the Mandalorian voice, of course).
An OSD snip method video in 2020? You've got to be kidding me,
Keep it retro Marky. You mux, I snip.
Mark C I’m gonna keep snipping too.
The SegaHolic sure, it’s what people who don’t know how to mod do it.
@@markc871 Thank muxmaster C. 👍
@@markc871 LOL. Seems like the directions are well documented. 🤷♂️.
anyone in las cruces area wanna help me do this? i only need you to discharge it :P i can do the rest...
LOL. Don be scared man. Just wear thick gloves
Perfect =-)
Nope, not perfect, but it's still awesome. Nothing is really perfect. You gonna try this?
@@The_SegaHolic You are right, I had done it a while ago
i want one but im a n00b
Screw that! You can do this. Or get someone that can handle a soldering iron if you really can't and just show him/her this video. This really is easy stuff.
@@The_SegaHolic so the hardest part is finding a tv with the 2 chips instead of an all in one? i've soldered before but im afraid of getting shocked to death lol
@@mcpeepantz666 Most will have 2 chips. And just make sure the chroma/jungle has RGB inputs. You won't get shocked as long as you discharge that anode. Believe me when I say I was scared shitless my first time. But now, it's like ho-hum. Get the freebie TV's and practice on those. It's free, so you don't have to worry about messing them up.
@@mcpeepantz666 Oh, and keep you hands out of a live/on/plugged-in TV. And don't touch all kinds of places other than what you are intending to do. If you still are hesitant, just use thick nitrile gloves during handling of the board.
@@mcpeepantz666 Another great tip: After you discharged the CRT tube there might be power in some of the caps. So pick a screwdriver and touch the capacitor pin together.Only do this to the largest ones.
Hi. I looked up my board's schematic and it's using digital rgb for its osd i guess.
drive.google.com/drive/folders/1DQead9mAPYXzTyYDOROapp6-mdJBVyeu?usp=sharing
Can i somehow rewire/reroute the micon to use analog in the chroma?
It's just beside it.
Yep, using digital RGB... not going to work with Analog RGB consoles. Sorry. Problem is, you Chroma accepts only digital RGB. Sometimes, a chroma chip will have dual capabiltiy of doing Digital or Analog, but you'll have to program it. You'll also have to add in some components from your analog source to the chroma- ie: putting in .1uf or .01uf dc filtering caps.
Your best bet is to just find an RGBable TV.