Maybe for the delux version you could attach the saw to a piece of aluminium plate half inch wider all round like a router table. Allows you to use almost the full cut depth cut capacity for your saw.
Hah I made one in 93 when I had my cabinet shop. I needed a portable with no money left to buy one (they were all crap then anyway) so I put my Milwaukee circular saw under a table box with a fence. Not as nice but did the job
That looks great. But it seems to me this would be a good thing for someone with limited tools to build. Do you think you would be able to make that using only the skil saw and a drill?
You can build this with just a circular saw with an edge guide (or a good straight edge) and a drill. You would also need a basic pocket hole jig and a speed square. The only part you won't be able to do is the miter slots and the T-track.
Could you not cut the miter slots with the saw and a straight edge, just in several passes. As long as the cut either side was accurate and the bottom of the slot was sanded after, it would work ok, wouldn't it?
It would be tough to get the bottom of the miter slot perfectly flat doing it that way. Ask yourself how much you will actually need a miter slot before you go through all that trouble.
Hi i have bought that same table saw 2nd hand n i dont have the manual to it, where can i get that one. Also there is a piece of the saw that was handed to me which is the not connected it is the adjustment level that is between the extension table wing, i dont know how to put, n the extension wing keeps moving to the side. Please help.
Hopefully this will help. This is a manual for the saw I have: images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/f6/f6fe8062-1396-4670-9d4c-41d3e40250f4.pdf
Yes! The toe refers to the end opposite from the locking lever on most fences (pointing away from you). Some folks micro-adjust their fence so it is toe-out, or widens slightly on the out-feed, so that your off-cut portion does not jam between the fence and the blade. Most will agree that you do not want to "toe-in" the fence (narrowing the out-feed). The default is no-toe, or parallel to the blade. Most saws will do fine with the default set up. I personally maintain a parallel set-up and ensure that I'm using a sharp blade. Also, if you're using your riving knife, you really don't need to worry about the fence toe adjustment. Also, NOT all fences will allow you to adjust for this. Finally, Don't try to take large cuts all at once. Use less blade and go with a flip cut or raise the blade gradually and make multiple passes. I'll probably make a video at some point to explain this better.
![⚡[DIY] Making a jig for sawing logs /If you do some woodworking, you should also cut logs /HOMEMADE✅](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/H2QM5yj8oGM/mqdefault.jpg)
Nice work on the portable table saw Eric! Thanks for sharing the video with us!💖👍👌😎JP
Great idea on the fence. Nice work.
This is very useful! You’re the man eric. Im gonna build this one and share in my channel too. Thanks for the idea 👍
Lovely!
Thanks for sharing.
Good job sir.
Very cool!
Lloyd Goodlad plans please
Yes please make plans for the saw
Maybe for the delux version you could attach the saw to a piece of aluminium plate half inch wider all round like a router table. Allows you to use almost the full cut depth cut capacity for your saw.
You could do that but it's not really worth it for the extra 1/2 inch. I wouldn't recommend cutting at full depth regardless.
Hah I made one in 93 when I had my cabinet shop. I needed a portable with no money left to buy one (they were all crap then anyway) so I put my Milwaukee circular saw under a table box with a fence. Not as nice but did the job
Great build Eric! That portable table saw would definitely come in handy....... 👍👍😉😉
Great build. Same design would work for a mini router table? Watching out for the plans. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks! Similar, but the Mini router table has different features and specs: ua-cam.com/video/rbx031_KS6c/v-deo.html
That looks great. But it seems to me this would be a good thing for someone with limited tools to build. Do you think you would be able to make that using only the skil saw and a drill?
You can build this with just a circular saw with an edge guide (or a good straight edge) and a drill. You would also need a basic pocket hole jig and a speed square. The only part you won't be able to do is the miter slots and the T-track.
Could you not cut the miter slots with the saw and a straight edge, just in several passes. As long as the cut either side was accurate and the bottom of the slot was sanded after, it would work ok, wouldn't it?
It would be tough to get the bottom of the miter slot perfectly flat doing it that way. Ask yourself how much you will actually need a miter slot before you go through all that trouble.
@@EricSorensenCanada You could flatten the bottom with a home made router plane aka Paul Sellers!
I recommend buying at least a basic router. You'll never look back🙂
hi eric done building mine. thanks for the idea. do you have the link where you bought the clamp you used for the fence? thanks
amzn.to/3cwRk0v
have you done this same idea with a jig saw? just curious.
Hi i have bought that same table saw 2nd hand n i dont have the manual to it, where can i get that one. Also there is a piece of the saw that was handed to me which is the not connected it is the adjustment level that is between the extension table wing, i dont know how to put, n the extension wing keeps moving to the side. Please help.
Hopefully this will help. This is a manual for the saw I have: images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/f6/f6fe8062-1396-4670-9d4c-41d3e40250f4.pdf
@@EricSorensenCanada thanks, i will try it and let you know, thanks
18TPI!! They'll probably charge you as much as an entire circular saw for an 18TPI saw blade :)
Question- Why is there a milled groove in the table of a circular saw?
Subscriber from New Zealand!!
Thanks🙂 It's for the mitre gauge. It's also useful if you plan to use various jigs and cross-cut sleds.
Eric, Do you know what a fence toe is?
Yes! The toe refers to the end opposite from the locking lever on most fences (pointing away from you). Some folks micro-adjust their fence so it is toe-out, or widens slightly on the out-feed, so that your off-cut portion does not jam between the fence and the blade. Most will agree that you do not want to "toe-in" the fence (narrowing the out-feed).
The default is no-toe, or parallel to the blade. Most saws will do fine with the default set up. I personally maintain a parallel set-up and ensure that I'm using a sharp blade. Also, if you're using your riving knife, you really don't need to worry about the fence toe adjustment. Also, NOT all fences will allow you to adjust for this. Finally, Don't try to take large cuts all at once. Use less blade and go with a flip cut or raise the blade gradually and make multiple passes. I'll probably make a video at some point to explain this better.