Bind-Off at Both Ends
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- Опубліковано 25 сер 2024
- This is a knitting technique based on a combination of trapping a carried yarn in Fair Isle knitting and Rick Mondragon's sliding loop intarsia technique. If a pattern directs you to bind off at the beginning of the RS row, work to the end, and bind off at the beginning of the WS row; you can instead bind off at the end of the RS row without adding an extra row of stitches. Read more at jolieaelder.bl....
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If I could keep on clicking the 'Thumb Up' for this video, I would do it every time I watch it. This is the best technique I have ever learned in knitting, and the explanation and demo are clear that is so easy to follow. Thank you very much.
This might have been the most frustrating thing I´ve ever done, I got it wrong like 25 times but I finally figured it out! Thank you!
Oooh!! I have been puzzling over why the armhole bind offs were on diff rows for my first attempt at a sweater. I hated that they were uneven. This is great! Thank you!
One of the most useful tips and a video I refer to repeatedly. Thank you.
So clear. I can finally do this type of bind off thanks to you. Took me many (oh so many) attempts but I was determined to succeed. And I did. Thanks again 😊
Thank you so much for doing this video. I had watched another video and was unable to follow but this is so clear and showing that you are trapping vs working both sides of the “yarn” was the key! Thanks again. Kind regards!
Every knitter should be taught this! I've been knitting for 50+ years and only just discovered this!!!!! It has always bothered me having that extra row of knitted stitches.
Thank you so much! All I’ve done so far is just watch it, I haven’t done it yet, although it seems like it’ll be easy to follow. This will help a lot because I’m following a horse knitting pattern and this video was in the helpful links section and I was confused because it said to cast off in the beginning of the row and at the end as well, and I didn’t know how that would work because the working yarn would be all the way at the end. But now I understand. Thanks!
Fabulous tip and just what I was looking for! Thank you very much Jolie knits :) x
My pattern needs to bind off on every row. Could you pls do a video on bind off on the purl side? Thanks for your very clear instruction.
I need this too!! What did you wind up doing?
I need this too😭
Thank you so much.
You tought very easily. It's so useful for me.
What a fabulous technique, thank you for sharing it.
You are amazing!!! I am going to use this technique for a sweater that I am making!!! Thank you so much!!
Omg this is amazing!
Excellent. Really clear instructions. I've been doing it wrongly for so long!
I'm not sure I would call this method "correct." In most situations, the extra row caused by simply binding off doesn't make a difference and is much easier to work. But for those corner cases where an extra row does make a difference, this is a workable hack.
this explanation is absolutely brilliant!!!! thank you very much!! ❤❤❤
If I need to cast off at the end of the row I normally just cast off and then rejoin the yarn to the part I need to continue, but decided to give this a go to learn something new.. made it even more difficult for myself because I was working a purl row 😅 but got there in the end! I ended up just twisting the two strands of yarn to trap the one that needed to be trapped as I couldn’t work out how to do it by placing it over the needle 🤷🏻♀️
I've been struggling to solve this, you just saved me so much time! Thank you!
what do you mean by “twisting the two strands of yarn”? I’m having that same problem right now as I’m not able to decipher how to trap the yarn on a purl row😔😔
Very useful skill. Thanks for the tip.
That's great !!! Thank you so much....I was really looking for this solution..
Thank you for explaining this so clearly.
Absolutely brilliant, I have been trying to figure this but not able to, I was beginning to think there is no way to mirror the bind off...have no words to thank:)
Oh, this is just brilliant!!
Thank you so much for this!!
BRILLIANT, thank you so much!
Thank you! This is so helpful!
What a brilliant idea love it.👍👏👍
Excellent, thank you!
🌟❤this 🥳ty so much!!!🎉🦋🎊
Does this work with an odd number of stitches? I guess im asking do you have to end on a trap?
Amazing, thank you so much!! :-)
Clever!
You are a genious!! Thank you.
Brilliant!
Brilliant thank you ❤️
That's genius
Thank you!! The uneven edges would have driven me nuts xD
Can I use the same way to blind off on purl stitches? Thank you in advance for your answer.
If the RS row ends with purl stitches, the technique doesn’t work quite as well. Trapping a carried yarn involves carrying it on the purl side of the work. If the purl side is the public side, then the carried yarn is trapped to the public side, which isn’t pleasing. If there is a way to trap to the knit side of the work, I don’t yet know it.
@@jolieknits9393 Thank you.
Thank you!. The uneven rows used to drive me crazy.
Could this same “yarn trapping” approach be used for “reverse shaping” to avoid having an extra row on one side of the garment? But the difference would be moving stitches to a stitch holder rather than casting off. Example to form a yoke on a baby bunting (stockinette stitch): Right front says to:
K10, leave these 10 sts on st holder, K17, turn
P17, turn
K4, leave these 4 sts on same st holder (18 sts on holder), K13 turn
P13, turn
There are a few more rows to the shaping but let’s use this much.
When working the left front to “correspond to the right front on the remaining stitches” could I:
K17, set up “number 4” yarn trapping loop, K last 10 sts trapping yarn, turn
Pull trapped yarn through, leave first 10 sts on st holder, P17, turn
K13, set up yarn trapping loop, K last 4 sts trapping yarn, turn
Pull trapped yarn through, leave first 4 sts on st holder (18 stitches on holder), P13 turn
Etc.
Thank you.
Yes, I think you have exactly the right idea. I'm typically using this for a bind-off, but you could use the trapping trick to leave live stitches. If binding off, I normally work the trapping stitches a bit looser. If you are parking them to use later, then work them at normal tension.
that uneven row drives me to stop the work! it upsets me till I get there and worries me till I am complete. OH MY GOSH MY KNITTING MAMA!
Hello! Do you think this could work for casting on stitches? I’m thinking if once done the cast on stitches could be moved to the left needle and worked, keeping the edges even..? I’m going to give it a try!!
Possibly? For working a T-shape, I've seen a technique in crochet where you you introduce a separate piece of yarn with the cast-on stitches for one side. It enables you to make both sides even, but it does require an extra piece of yarn, so extra ends to weave in. Please let us know how your experiment goes!
@Animal Liberation yes, it does work. It’s hard at first with which way to put the yarn. I had to give it a few tries, just don’t give up, it does work! Can I ask what you’re making?
thank you so much for the tip!
I have a question. I need to decrease 2 stitches at the end of a moss stitch pattern. Would this technique for that as well?
Hmmm. You could use it, although that might be making it unnecessarily fussy. A left-leaning knit 3 together (slip, slip, slip, then knit all three together through the back of the loop) or a left-leaning purl 3 together (slip, slip, slip, purl all three together up through the back of the loop) might be just as good. What you choose might also depend on whether the selvedge will be seamed later or whether it will show in the finished project. And that choice might also mean that a regular knit 3 together or purl 3 together is sufficient.
I have to rejoin yarn and cast 3 stiches off straight away ,how do i do this please?
Hmmm. Joining yarn is its own set of choices. If you are in a very tricky situation, you might ply the yarn back on itself to form a loop. Treat the loop as the first stitch. Knit with the doubled yarn to make more stitches and weave in the end at the same time. I don't yet have a video of this trick.
Can this be done in rib?
Casting off 2 stitches at the beg of next 10 rows can you please explain to me what this is saying thank you
Hmmm. Casting off two stitches at the beginning of next 10 rows can mean a couple things. Most likely:
At the beginning of every row (both RS and WS), cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the row. This should narrow the fabric symmetrically. And you should have 20 fewer stitches after the 10th row.
For this example, I probably wouldn't bother doing the fancy technique in this video. Instead, I'd most likely simply k3tog or sssk near the edge (choosing based on stitch pattern and which way I want the decrease to lean).
Does your pattern have a schematic to give you a clue what shape you are trying to knit?
Can you send me your email address then I can send you the pattern from my email thank you 👍
@@teresa3255 On Ravelry I'm "Jolie." If Ravelry has the pattern in their database, I can probably make a good guess based on that.
Can you do this for a knit1 pearl 1 pattern?
I *think* this will work for knit 1, purl 1. In that case, weave the carried strand back and forth instead of trapping it across the private side of the work. The best source for this technique would be "Reversible Intarsia Demonstration" here: ua-cam.com/video/1QgbR055Hq0/v-deo.html. You are correct to suspect that some stitch patterns will work better than others.
Has anyone tried this technique for sloped bind off? Thank you.
I haven't tried it yet, but there isn't any obvious reason it wouldn't work. My technique simply allows you to backtrack without adding height. Sloped bind-offs use decreases; they usually don't have the extra row height issues.
@@jolieknits9393 , do you mean when the piece is shaped (on both sides) via decreases of the stitches next to the first/last stitches? because what I mean is this one www.10rowsaday.com/sloped-bindoff-both-sides . As much as I understood your technique, it will work, if I can avoid trapping the last stitch (as it shouldn't be knitted in the sloped bind off), when I have odd number of stitches to bind off. So I need to try :) Thank you for your reply!
Have you ever trapped a yarn in Fair Isle or two-color knitting? It is a similar skill. If you have never done this before, I suggest trying that maneuver first on a swatch of Fair Isle knitting. I don't have a specific video for this, but Edie Eckman does. ua-cam.com/video/sQRTx3a8t2k/v-deo.html. Start at about the 6 minute mark. Once you are comfortable, I think you will see that I am trapping half of my large loop (the horizontal strand on the "4"), so that the yarn doubles back on itself. If you knit with that horizontal strand, you won't be able to tug gently to evaporate the excess loop.
thanks