You're correct where the actual bend starts but where ever you calibrate your dies thats where you line up your bends. I calibrate my dies to the end of die and since i have about 10 different dies its easier to go by the end of it
It is definitely easier to mark and set tubes off the end of the die, but adding another +/- in the measurement just isn't worth it for me. I'd end up forgetting to add or subtract and end up with scrap tube lol.
The first video I have seen that actually explains exactly where the bend starts. WELL DONE. Will the that start point be the same on all different size dies?
Technically it is the same on all of them. You're going from the pivot point out to the tube on a perpendicular line. Sorry for the late response, UA-cam isn't great with comment notifications.
You can get them pretty close, but let's say something like a cafe racer rear hoop with the little kick up on the end, I had to make a custom piece to hold the tube ahead of where JD2 originally set theirs up. It worked ok and got the job done but if I ever have to make another one of those hoops, I'll probably make something a little better. And this was literally starting another bend right next to the previous bend. I think I only had about a half inch in-between the two bends.
@@Otto_Factory Half an inch is good to know. I'm looking to do headers for bike engines so can have kind of a 90 followed by a bend in another direction so seems like this is a good option.
Nice. this is the first video with this info i have seen it shows you clear where u need to start your bend. Thanks
Yeah, glad it helped out. I've seen too many videos showing the end of the die as the start point.
You're correct where the actual bend starts but where ever you calibrate your dies thats where you line up your bends. I calibrate my dies to the end of die and since i have about 10 different dies its easier to go by the end of it
It is definitely easier to mark and set tubes off the end of the die, but adding another +/- in the measurement just isn't worth it for me. I'd end up forgetting to add or subtract and end up with scrap tube lol.
Excellent video and answers a question I have not seen this answer to, thank you for making this video!
Awesome, glad I could help! Just curious what the answer was?
BEST VIDEO YET THANKS
The first video I have seen that actually explains exactly where the bend starts. WELL DONE. Will the that start point be the same on all different size dies?
Technically it is the same on all of them. You're going from the pivot point out to the tube on a perpendicular line.
Sorry for the late response, UA-cam isn't great with comment notifications.
this is a great video, thanks
can you do multiple bends in one piece of tube? how close together?
You can get them pretty close, but let's say something like a cafe racer rear hoop with the little kick up on the end, I had to make a custom piece to hold the tube ahead of where JD2 originally set theirs up. It worked ok and got the job done but if I ever have to make another one of those hoops, I'll probably make something a little better. And this was literally starting another bend right next to the previous bend. I think I only had about a half inch in-between the two bends.
@@Otto_Factory Half an inch is good to know. I'm looking to do headers for bike engines so can have kind of a 90 followed by a bend in another direction so seems like this is a good option.
@@abigstorm yeah, just check the wall thickness of your header tubes, I think JD2 has a minimal wall thickness to prevent kinking the tube.