What To Look For In a Used Engine
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- Опубліковано 21 лип 2024
- I recently picked up this D16Y7 as a replacement engine for my sons 1999 Honda Civic. When it arrived I looked it over to make sure everything was OK, but also to see what kind of shape it was in.
This video outlines what to look for in a used engine, and provides tips for recommended maintenance before installation.
I hope you find this information useful!
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Pull-A-Part: www.pullapart.com
Used Engines and Transmissions: www.car-part.com
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Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy®. - Авто та транспорт
I love this because it's a blue collar guy taking care of the vehicles for his blue collar kids. That's us. What they drive isn't perfect or shiny new, but I know their cars inside out, I trust them to run every day and it's better for me to handle the car crap for them. Thanks Eric.
@@instanthorror2366 because that isn't an M54 on the hoist
Nah, I have an amazing white collar job and I drive an 06 xb with 340k miles. Buying a new car is easy but keeping an old car running is way more fun. Plus this car got me to where I'm today (hand-me-down from parents when I was 18 and I'm 24 now).
I love your Honda content.
The more Honda content you put, the more viewers you will get.
Of course, you already have 1.5 Million viewers.
One nice sign about this engine and how it was maintained: no Fram Oil Filter! If I see that orange filter, I usually pass on larger items.
God, I hate Fram filters. I wouldn't go as far as to completely dismiss an engine because of it though. I'd rather have an engine that had proper oil changes with a fram, than little or no oil changes with an OEM filter haha.
Fram was the OEM supplier for Honda years ago. Still is for other makes.
An exception is Fram Ultra Synthetic. The Fram Ultra Synthetic is actually a quality filter.
Eric, el vato de los carro's! Might not be correct but that's the way I'd say it in spanish 😁
That's exactly how I would say it.
Awebo
I had an oil pump failure on a Jeep 4.0 ... shop talked me into a used engine swap as the bearing might have scored ? .... price was decent as there are many in salvage places ... engine worked fine for 6 months ... but eventually discovered the flywheel was cracked on the replacement (during ship/storage ?) ... new flywheel install was almost as much as the used replacement ... shop was far away and would not cover that cost from another shop ... lesson learned was a "New" rebuilt engine could have been installed for the combined cost of used engine and eventual repair ... other than that, the used engine has held up well .. 250k on the 2000 Cherokee, mostly rebuilt from the ground up a few times, drives and looks like new ... my second one in 35 years ... I always enjoy Eric's tips ... always learn something ... subbed for a while now
Sorry to hear about that. I covered this topic in this video. ua-cam.com/video/KWjF56tFzRg/v-deo.html
@@ericthecarguy ... hey it happens, the crack could have happened in shipping/transport ... and not noticed ? ... i grew up in the business, so i have an edge although never worked in it/repairs etc were all just on my vehicles ... so i appreciate watching your video's, I always learn something, or tip, tricks of the trade .... had many vehicles over the years, work truck, exotics, classics ... been lucky, but I maintain my vehicles well ... do most of my own work and have all the tools ... saved a lot of money, had reliable vehicles ... I fix/replace before they break .. I've been a sub for a long time, loved the rebuild of your dads truck, cool sleeper ride .. don't even know the miles on that swap engine ... but you know those old 4.0 cast iron sixes are solid ... Jeep has 250k on it and still looks sweet, great daily driver, but I retired this year ... got 300k out of my other 89 Cherokee ... can't beat that for reliability .... keep up the nice work Eric ... it helps a lot of people ... that's good Karma
and if I can I buy good replacement parts ... that is also a good investment ... cheap parts wear out in a year or two ... not worth the double work or hassle ... I change my oil every 2,000 miles ... was taught oil is cheap and gets recycled ... and I thank the jeep every time I get in it for being reliable before starting, then pat the console ... been working for decades ... only been towed twice in 45 years ... lol
Used to buy straight from Japan. Engines won't meet environmental spec after 30k. Got some killer deals back in the day. This is familiar terrain.
Yup, Japan specifies engine or car replacement after 7 years or something. US won’t allow auto imports until cars are much older but engines probably low mileage and great condition can.
@@tomtheplummer7322 you can buy parts from Japan you just can't buy an entire car unless it's more than 25 years old and you go through all the bullshit of importing it! "Half cuts" are also pretty common where they basically sell you the front half of whatever car you want so that you get the entire drivetrain and all the wiring and everything for your swap!!
Do you have a website where you bought these engines directly from Japan?
@@cucumber9864 they exist still but the company I dealt with was called TriStar out of Dallas. I don't think they're in business anymore. Probably look using key words . Used from japan or some such.
This is an awesome idea! I've made a few mistakes in not properly inspecting an engine. I'll never buy sight-unseen again. This gave a bunch ideas of what to look at. Thanks!
Such great advice!! And a awsome video.i purchased a motor also from eBay for my rx300 and it's been going strong for 1.5 years now. Everything in this video is solid solid advice, nice work 👌 💯
Love your channel! Thanks for posting this. Very useful to us Honda-philes.
I've been watching your channel for probably around 5 or so years now, and thanks to your videos I feel a hell of a lot more confident working on my own car, which is good because I just got an AE82 Corolla that needs a bit of TLC, runs great but it's got a few things that need to be buttoned up, and you're videos have given me the knowledge of the things I should listen out for or see before it goes pear shaped. Also one year I received a digital birthday cake :) Thanks for the videos and sharing your knowledge with us!
Thank you very much for the comment and good luck with the Toyota. Those are great cars.
@@ericthecarguy You're very welcome and I'm looking forward to getting my hands dirty :)
i must've got lucky when i got a jdm d15 with supposedly 40k miles off an importer lot in Los Angeles, without even inspecting it. Changed some seals, new timing belt and water pump, didn't even open it, swapped it in a 93 honda civic and six years later, still going strong.
Same. My D15B looked like it was never ran. Looked like zero miles on it. Not a shade of tan/gold, just straight metal on the valve-train. Clean oil, Honda oil filter. I think I lucked out. Had to do the crank-sensor delete wire trick, doesn't idle perfect, but runs amazing besides the fact. Using the D16Y7 ECU, so that could be why, plus the lack of a crank sensor.
@@hegeliandetective1034 hm, I've been working with d15b7s for past six years and never came across one with a crank sensor. Am i missing something? Where is it located?
Hi Eric I also do very similar checks to what you do when checking a engine over before dropping into the car / van you are really reliant on the seller telling the truth at point of sale .. for example I purchased a Diesel engine from a seller and when I got the engine on the bench it was seized when I tried to turn it over with a breaker bar .. fortunately it seemed if was only surface rust in the bore holding the pistons over a week a dribbled diesel down the removed glow plug holes and the engine released and is now happily still running in my van keep up the good work your a very talented mechanic
Valuable resource for us DIYers. Good tips. Personally, I'll probably go looking for this video in four years when I recreate my 05 TL into a supercar.
gonna build a j series for my 06 too... maybe start with a j32 from the bottom up, then after that j37 shawd manual? will be cutting a tunnel for the rear diff and putting in a full cage at that point
Thanks ETCG1!
Excellent information to know!
Yep, collision cars can be great for used engines. I pulled a nearly perfect F22A6 out of a 92 Accord sedan, only had 135k on it. Car was in immaculate condition except that it had been t-boned. Felt bad for the car but I gave the engine a good home in my Accord wagon.
me and the 200 people I know wouldn't be caught dead in an accord wagon. How embarrassing.
I'm not sure which is more ridiculous; you claiming to know 200 people, your flippant dismissal of the Accord wagon, your untimely reply to a three year old comment, or your tenuous grasp of the English language.
Thank you Eric. Very useful video. Keep up the good work.
Very thorough and good guide, i'm about to attempt switching out my 2.0l Ecoboost engine and had no idea what to look for from a used engine. Def some good tips, feel a bit more confident now with this guide.
Any updates?
@@ozzayyyy Got a 2014 Ford Escape engine to swap into the ST. Looked over the engine that had bout 45k miles on it and there was oil in cylinders 1 and 4. Big bummer, but i'm continuing the swap for now and sending the current blown engine off to a machinist to see if I can salvage that one and put it back in.
As far as the oily engine, its a good candidate to teardown and rebuild for a stronger more bullet proof engine. Maybe a stroker kit.
Thank you so much for those messages you do send online, it has helped me a lot.
Good advice as usual Eric.
great vid Eric keep them coming
What I see mostly on used engine ads, is the fact that they're ALWAYS "low mileage" 🤔
Better off getting them from Japan, they don't have as many miles as the ones from America
more like....freshly rebuilt. Rebuilt = new spark plugs, new valve cover gasket, new spark plug wires. LOL
To their logic: Low miles =100kmiles
Is there a reliable website for these engines from Japan?
@@cucumber9864 hmmotorsonline is pretty popular but they only do Honda/Acura engines
Thanks Eric! Love your videos! It is always information that I can trust!👍🏾
Thanks for the info Eric!!!!!
Many salvage yards are really picky about what they will let you do before you buy the engine or transmission. They usually won't allow you to remove the valve covers or oil pan.
In this case, it was already purchased it, and it turned out good.
Good info for anyone. Thanks Eric
a few seals and gaskets is a great way to go saves lots of work down the road thumbs up shared
My first video of ETCG I ever watched was a video where he cleared a intake manifold clog in a Honda V6 exactly what was wrong with my Honda Odyssey and I followed the video and fix my Honda. I have been watching ever since. That was prolly 8 years ago
Good to know!
The explanation is so awesome, I hope you make videos on engine restoration too.. Cause wow 👌👌
Thanks for the great tips Eric i will be sure to look out for things in the future when buying a used engines Thanks....
Wow, my comment became gibberish. Thanks, UA-cam! I only buy used engines from rear enders, or t-bones - no front end or especially rollovers. Those can run for several minutes without oil - modern engines have ZERO tolerance for that!
When I was driving for a trash hauler, I had just finished my day and was headed back to the shop when this little VW Jetta came screaming around an offramp, ignored the stop sign, and drove straight into my tandems at 40 MPH as I was doing 40 MPH! The sight in my side mirror was quite amazing - like watching a movie! The car became airborne while spinning, shedding parts in every direction! It did 2 full 360's before landing with the entire front end torn off the car. Just a few scuff marks on my tires. The cops arrive, and one of them asks where my damage is - I said just some scuffs on the tires. One cop starts cracking up hysterically and says to the other, "Did you see his f#&$ing car???" And both were rolling! It was funny, though. Guy wasn't hurt but boy did I ring his bell good! Had CA plates on the car. Said he didn't even see the stop sign. "You're kidding!" LOL! The car was still running after all the oil pumped out of the hanging lines where the oil cooler used to be. I heard what sounded like a washing machine full of scrap metal. I told the guy, "You might want to shut that off, in case anything is salvageable." It wasn't ...
Love the Honda content
Great video good buddy
Very informative video!!! Keep it up
That's what she said
thanks for sharing some tips mate.
You are the best mechanic on you tube
Good information
Eric is the best youtuber ever!!
Great video. Thank you.
Awesome Video !
Thank you Eric,
Great video. Good information for the novice DIY person.
Great information.
hey Eric, good luck with this one. Any insight on those places that sell used engines from Japan, that supposedly have low miles? thanks
At this point, this engine is one of my favorites. Just stinks that the more years pass, the older the engine gets. My engine is still going strong in my 99 5 speed coupe. DONT worry Eric, im religious with my oil changes!
Sold mine 3 years ago to a friend w/242,000miles, and the timing belt snapped on the freeway going 75. I was very sad this is how it died.
The oil pump is also responsible for pressure. The volume it puts out through the restrictions (bearings etc) makes the pressure.
Worn bearings will flow too much and the pressure will drop but a worn pump wont flow enough to produce the pressure.
Both are directly related and I've seen plenty of oil pumps fail leading to low pressure
Eric, I need help with a 2000 4runner v6 auto. Its getting dangerous with the brakes on wet roads ONLY...During dry weather it brakes just fine! On wet roads, moderate braking from above 40mph, the brakes feel like they lose all power and they shudder. Almost had a rear end accident. Mechanics here are very expensive. Already did brake flush, fluid check, and brakes and rotors replaced. Thank you for your time! Big fan.
Right on time
Helpful & informative
If i may add since you had the exhaust manifold out. I woulda look inside to see the valves looking like...great video
Good video...I trust your experience.
After the engine replacement, do a rebuild on the one with the blown gasket
You mean the one with the broken connecting rod?
@@ONeal397 The one with the broken connecting rod was in the donor car. The one with the blown head gasket is in his son's car. The ebay engine is the 3rd engine.
This is my first period class!!!!!
I purchased a 97' Civic with a d16y7 with 190000 miles a few years ago. Just sold it with 325000 miles and still runs great.
It was a 5spd and the guy who bought it is going to teach his kids to drive a manual!
This video couldn't have come at a better time for me.
I have a 96 Dakota with a head gasket issue & my local mechanic said swapping the engine (3.9 magnum V6) would be cheaper than replacing the gaskets.
The nearest scrapyard gave a ballpark estimate of $200 - $300 to sell me a previously owned engine.
They said all used engines are test run before being sold, and come with a warranty.
I'm a little bit nervous because while my truck is a former EcoLab fleet vehicle and appears quite well maintained... I know nothing about the junkyard engine history.
Everything else seems to be in real good shape, & so long as I keep the radiator full, the Dakota runs like a Swiss watch.
What’s your opinion on remanufactured engines. I had one installed on my son’s 97 Grand Prix
and the install shop didn’t bother to change the plugs. I decided to do a tune up cause I didn’t like the way the car was running. I had a hell of a time pulling out the rear plugs. They were rusty! The engine was bought through a Goodyear repair shop. Lesson trust but verify your purchase. They gave me a warranty as the engine came from a big engine remanufactured shop. The car also developed an oil leak in less than a year. I have a feeling that it came from a junkyard.
Lesson learned
great video
Wish you would do one on motor control computers and such, as I saw one die sometime ago at a friend's car, and he had a lot of trouble to get a replacement for it.
"extended oil change intervals" nice way to say cheap bast@rds that won't do something simple such as an oil and filter change. My current car is 12,500 km / 6 months. Has to go to a mechanic for a service to maintain new car warranty (Australia has whacky rules), however at the 6000km mark I still change the oil and spin on a new filter at home. Cheap , quick and goes a long way towards engine health.
Had that coolant hose below the distributor on my 92 accord burst on me one day on my way home from work. Limped it home 30 miles away without getting it to hot had zero coolant when I got home
Eric I am here in Bolivia where I have lived for the last 25 years. We get second use engines and trans here and many people just buy a used engine and change it rather than rebuild. You are correct on seals. After a used engine has set idle for a while the seals degrade. Many down here change the oil seals and then take off timing chain Then they will pull rocker arms and change valve seals without pulling head. A soft nylon rope stuffed in the plug hole will make a nest and with piston up will allow you to pull valve keepers and springs to replace seals. Reassemble and change timing gears and chain if necessary. Many engines run out well after doing this. Just what I have seen here. Regards
I like the idea of a soft nylon rope----will use that rather than air!
@@40redman hello. Yes I did that on a Nissan Sentra I have here. Oil consumption was about 1 quart 1000 miles. In the tail pipe it didn’t look like burnt oil but rather was oily to the touch making me think it was the valve seals. The engine had 205000 kilometers. We changed the oil seals and completely cured the oil consumption problem. We did do a compression check before and compression was good which gave me more faith in the rings. After pulling plugs and taking off timing chain and rocker shafts I used about 1 mtr of 1/4 inch soft nylon rope and with piston down fed as much of the rope as possible into cylinder. Then I turned crank until engine locked. I removed valve keepers and changed seals. Repeated steps on other 3 cylinders. Cannot imagine it does any damage to pistons or head but keeps the valves steady..Also I had bought a tool on EBay like a slide hammer you can use to remove and replace valve keepers. It worked great.
@@KP-yx1fn I don't know that I'd use the starter to turn over the engine----thought a socket on the crank pulley and doing it by hand would be safer and get the same end result of holding the valve without possibly damaging either the valve or the top of the piston when trying to get the keeper off. Sometimes the keeper is on so tight it won't let go of the valve without really putting alot of force on it. One never knows when a little thing like this can make a world of difference. Keep wrenching!
@@40redman did not use starter turned crank with wrench on crankshaft . turns easily with plugs out and rocker shafts off.
@@KP-yx1fn I mistakenly thought you had 'cranked' using the starter when you had manually turned the crank to compress the rope. It's a really good idea to do it this way & I will certainly use it the next time I need to replace the valve stem seals on my 289 Mustang
Thank you USA for the educational video and entertainment I enjoy watching I am from South Africa
Hello South Africa!
Are you going to test the engine before installing? If so, could you do an additional video on general engine testing on a stand as well. Love the videos!!!!
Not really possible unless you have a stand, wiring harness with all the connectors, and the correct computer to run it. In my view that just isn't practical. Thanks for the comment.
Could you do a depression (compression) test maybe?
A bit of farting abouts to hook up a starter I suspect.
Thanks for more awesome content young Ezza.
Thanks for taking this video. Watching this before heading to a wrecker haha.
awesome video and you are just like my dad he also liked cars as well
Good morning Eric, I’m a novice mechanic who’s working on a 08 keep grand Cherokee
Even though it has "off brand" plugs, AT LEAST THEY CHANGED THEM...Got a horrible running Ford Six pickup once $250, it had 2 plugs that were NEVER CHANGED! They had a gap over .125" LOL!...I like Bosch and NGK in my 1NZ-FE Toyota engines... in fact I am running an "EK - Dual Electrode NGK" in my one 1NZ engine, and surprisingly it seems to start better on very cold days... -40°F/C and it popped right off not plugged in, YES I NOW have block heaters!
At the speed you said "I'm Eric the car guy", I swore I heard you said "American car guy"... Which wouldn't be wrong either...
I remember working at a shop that bought an engine from a junkyard that had supposedly "ran the engine recently" to prove it was good. The first thing I did was pull the plastic timing cover to see if it'd need a new timing belt soon (so much easier to change it while it's out) and it was all full of cobwebs and leaves. Then I tried turn the engine over, it did OK most of the way through the revolution, but it wouldn't turn all the way over. I took the plugs out and tried turn it over again only to watch all that rusty water in the cylinders causing hydrostatic lock run out on the floor. I still advise people to avoid that junkyard 20 years later.
Eric should talk more about newer vehicles and technologies. He's got a good fan base
Thats Because its cheaper to fix a older well built car than buy a new one. Whole point in his channel
@ same can be said about even older vehicles... but that narrows the scope of interest for content. Eric is a good youtuber and has potential for growth if he mixed it up with newer vehicles. Thats all.
Sir, please show videos on how to compare blowby gas pressure in new and old cars!!
ua-cam.com/video/WgrfT0LFMhc/v-deo.html
@@ericthecarguy the video is hard to get understand for me.
Please make videos on checking directly the blow by gas from engine oil cap cover by placing hands or paper in brand new cars and old cars. That will be simple and easily identify.
I remember a TV program called 'Bangla Bangers'. Custom rebuilt bangers in Bangladesh somewhere. When the guy wanted an engine, he'd go round to a local shed with scores of engines in. He'd pick one and it would be pulled out on the pavement/sidewalk, connected to a battery and a fuel line and started up there and then. :) Ingenious/ engineous I thought.
In this situation that wouldn't work because I would not only need the full harness, but the correct computer to run the engine. You can do as you mention with a carbureted engine all day long, with an EFI engine, not so much. Thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy Quite agree. I wasn't thinking too deeply about it. :) They were bangers, so not hi-tech.
Good stuff
Nice details. How can I tell if the milage listed on a used engine online eg ebay is actual?
Great video, wouldn't you do the timing whilst it's out.
I have a friend who purchased a "Freshly re-built and machined for nitrous" D16Z6 for his project. The guy he bought the engine from was the son of the man who owned and operated the machine shop the engine was built in. Son says, "yeah it's a good engine, was ready to drop it into my car and fire it for the first time but decided to sell instead." Come to find out, it takes a breaker bar and all of your body weight to spin the engine over even without the cylinder head installed. Mind you, this engine doesn't have a single mile or start on it since being "built". The piston ring end gaps were also not parallel by the way, had at least a 45 degree angle to the cut. If my friend had trusted this "machine shop" built engine, it would have toasted the bearings or more within 5 minutes if not less of the first start. Always inspect the engine before purchase if possible. I've done a better job rebuilding engines on a dirty garage floor with hand tools than this "professional shop" did with my friends engine.
Ah yes....i remember that Dodge Ram engine swap back in 2011....in that small cold shop.
On the floor...
I'm sorry I was distracted by that secksy TL in the background :) Please more TL vids.
Hello from UK !!
Hello UK!
Idk but newer Toyota 4 bangers you can’t directly see the camshaft or roller rockers due to a screen, On my frontier with the Qr25 you can.
Any other reasons to replace the oil pump other than redoing the seals?
Can you take a small compressor and inject air into each cylinder to test compression?
Thanks!!!
Eric... Car-Part.com is a pretty good place, I use it weekly!
Linked in the description.
Do you not like NGK wires for Hondas? I feel like that is the correct replacement, I'd love to know your thoughts.
I had to buy another engine for my 03 Element since couldn't find the knock lol . I picked the cleanest one they had 😎, so far had no problems .
I just have to fix the A/C
You buy eng online or at junkyard?
@@ozzayyyy I went to a place to had all JDM motors . I paid like 500 and 700 to get it put on lol
“Trust me I know.” You must be thinking about the time you put that engine in that dodge (I think it was a dodge?) and you came to find out that the engine was seized. I will add from a personal experience, I did the same thing and rotated an engine before buying (Toyota 5SFE) and it spun good and seemed decent. Took it home, pulled the oil pan and found metal debris. Cylinder #1 ate it’s rod bearing and nearly destroyed the crankshaft. That was a fun engine build....
Yep, that's the one. Thanks for the comment.
How much would you pay for a 2007 Lincoln Town Car Designer with 31,000 miles? The car is in MINT CONDITION and the Seller is asking $15k and the KBB is $8-10k.
Also its off white, beige interior, fully loaded with a custom landeu soft top$$, gold grille/hood ornament. Still has a dealer tag on the back seat.
Im in rural Western Kansas and vehicles are harder to find and more expensive than in big cities. I absolutely love these cars!
Run it up to see oil psi.? Do a leak down test in cylinders?
More likely to be etcg1 video material, have any hints or comments about more modern cars that are easy to maintain? 15-20 year old cars are mostly rusted out and have really high mileage here in Finland and they are becoming more expensive for what they are.
Also many cheaper Toyota's are almost gone and many of them are exported to Africa so it is rare to see any semi decent ones for reasonable price.
Loved how easy it was to keep my 99' civic for 2 years but it didn't pass inspection because under carriage rust under the plastic side trim and had 415k on the odometer and unknown service history and now I have nissan primera 00' but that is also all rusty underside but at least the inspection is valid for 10 months
Thanks for the video, do engine sellers report compression #s or is it typically just miles?
I've never seen them do that. You're lucky to get mileage most times. I my mind, mileage is irrelevant. A good inspection is your best bet, no matter what the seller says. A poorly maintained low mileage engine can be trashed, where a well maintained high mileage engine can work out great.
Without a final compression test, you won’t know much about the health of the engine.
In my experience the plugs tell you a lot about the engine and how it was maintained. Thanks for the comment.
Would a leak down test be more appropriate at this point with the engine on the ground. I mean you can't do the compression test, but you can hook up air and rotate the engine just to ensure that all valves seal there isn't a bent valve.
@Franklin Terwilliger III As someone who wrenches, semi-professionally now, but used to do it full time, (mostly hot rods now) A leak down test is a pretty good test too...the Aviation industry uses it almost exclusively... an engine on the floor like that, it may be the only logical choice, its better than "nothing"...
Im with you on that BUT recently my 67k mile 5.7 Hemi had a #3,#5 cyl misfire, but tested great for compression, very long story short, it took removing the valve cover, rotating the engine to see both rockers barley moving. Bad cam lobe, faulty lifters.
@@ericthecarguy
Please make videos on checking directly the blow by gas from engine oil cap cover by placing hands or paper in brand new cars and old cars. That will be simple and easily identify.
The oil in the spark plug tubes can be coming from dried out spark plug tube seals that sit on the top of the plug tubes the round tube gaskets come with the valve cover gasket I believe these round tube gaskets are notorious for getting dry n brittle causing the seal that is made when they are tightened down against the valve cover so in turn since the tube seals are dried out n brittle it will not longer seal causing oil to get into the plug tubes those round gaskets that sit against the valve cover always are dry n brittle in my experience anyway right Eric ???
Thumbs up before seeing a video.
I’m surprised you didn’t do/mention a compression test, any reason?
Hi I have a 94 Honda Civic and I’m having problems with idle surge. I replaced the iacv and the fiacv along with gaskets for the throttle body and the intake manifold. Bubbles keep coming out of the radiator and the idle only surges when I press the gas. I would really appreciate some help
Could be the head gasket. There's only a few things that could cause air bubbles in your radiator if the system has been purged.
Good tips
And when U mentioned that the oil pump is not responsible for oil pressure, does that apply on any motor cause my 04 5.3 vortec out of my suburban says low oil pressure and gauge shows like 10psi and recently built a knock I think in the passenger side head
I need help
Yes, see the video linked in the description.
If your oil pump is failing that can cause a low pressure condition, but more than likely you have a bearing clearance issue. Fortunately 5.3s are everywhere and can be had cheap.
I always use the plug wires to fish the plug out
Erickthecarguy can you please let me know where the bank2 sensor2 on dodge charger 2016 is located?thanks.
Will there be an install video?