I love this because it's a blue collar guy taking care of the vehicles for his blue collar kids. That's us. What they drive isn't perfect or shiny new, but I know their cars inside out, I trust them to run every day and it's better for me to handle the car crap for them. Thanks Eric.
Nah, I have an amazing white collar job and I drive an 06 xb with 340k miles. Buying a new car is easy but keeping an old car running is way more fun. Plus this car got me to where I'm today (hand-me-down from parents when I was 18 and I'm 24 now).
I had an oil pump failure on a Jeep 4.0 ... shop talked me into a used engine swap as the bearing might have scored ? .... price was decent as there are many in salvage places ... engine worked fine for 6 months ... but eventually discovered the flywheel was cracked on the replacement (during ship/storage ?) ... new flywheel install was almost as much as the used replacement ... shop was far away and would not cover that cost from another shop ... lesson learned was a "New" rebuilt engine could have been installed for the combined cost of used engine and eventual repair ... other than that, the used engine has held up well .. 250k on the 2000 Cherokee, mostly rebuilt from the ground up a few times, drives and looks like new ... my second one in 35 years ... I always enjoy Eric's tips ... always learn something ... subbed for a while now
@@ericthecarguy ... hey it happens, the crack could have happened in shipping/transport ... and not noticed ? ... i grew up in the business, so i have an edge although never worked in it/repairs etc were all just on my vehicles ... so i appreciate watching your video's, I always learn something, or tip, tricks of the trade .... had many vehicles over the years, work truck, exotics, classics ... been lucky, but I maintain my vehicles well ... do most of my own work and have all the tools ... saved a lot of money, had reliable vehicles ... I fix/replace before they break .. I've been a sub for a long time, loved the rebuild of your dads truck, cool sleeper ride .. don't even know the miles on that swap engine ... but you know those old 4.0 cast iron sixes are solid ... Jeep has 250k on it and still looks sweet, great daily driver, but I retired this year ... got 300k out of my other 89 Cherokee ... can't beat that for reliability .... keep up the nice work Eric ... it helps a lot of people ... that's good Karma
and if I can I buy good replacement parts ... that is also a good investment ... cheap parts wear out in a year or two ... not worth the double work or hassle ... I change my oil every 2,000 miles ... was taught oil is cheap and gets recycled ... and I thank the jeep every time I get in it for being reliable before starting, then pat the console ... been working for decades ... only been towed twice in 45 years ... lol
God, I hate Fram filters. I wouldn't go as far as to completely dismiss an engine because of it though. I'd rather have an engine that had proper oil changes with a fram, than little or no oil changes with an OEM filter haha.
Yup, Japan specifies engine or car replacement after 7 years or something. US won’t allow auto imports until cars are much older but engines probably low mileage and great condition can.
@@tomtheplummer7322 you can buy parts from Japan you just can't buy an entire car unless it's more than 25 years old and you go through all the bullshit of importing it! "Half cuts" are also pretty common where they basically sell you the front half of whatever car you want so that you get the entire drivetrain and all the wiring and everything for your swap!!
@@cucumber9864 they exist still but the company I dealt with was called TriStar out of Dallas. I don't think they're in business anymore. Probably look using key words . Used from japan or some such.
Wow, my comment became gibberish. Thanks, UA-cam! I only buy used engines from rear enders, or t-bones - no front end or especially rollovers. Those can run for several minutes without oil - modern engines have ZERO tolerance for that! When I was driving for a trash hauler, I had just finished my day and was headed back to the shop when this little VW Jetta came screaming around an offramp, ignored the stop sign, and drove straight into my tandems at 40 MPH as I was doing 40 MPH! The sight in my side mirror was quite amazing - like watching a movie! The car became airborne while spinning, shedding parts in every direction! It did 2 full 360's before landing with the entire front end torn off the car. Just a few scuff marks on my tires. The cops arrive, and one of them asks where my damage is - I said just some scuffs on the tires. One cop starts cracking up hysterically and says to the other, "Did you see his f#&$ing car???" And both were rolling! It was funny, though. Guy wasn't hurt but boy did I ring his bell good! Had CA plates on the car. Said he didn't even see the stop sign. "You're kidding!" LOL! The car was still running after all the oil pumped out of the hanging lines where the oil cooler used to be. I heard what sounded like a washing machine full of scrap metal. I told the guy, "You might want to shut that off, in case anything is salvageable." It wasn't ...
i must've got lucky when i got a jdm d15 with supposedly 40k miles off an importer lot in Los Angeles, without even inspecting it. Changed some seals, new timing belt and water pump, didn't even open it, swapped it in a 93 honda civic and six years later, still going strong.
Same. My D15B looked like it was never ran. Looked like zero miles on it. Not a shade of tan/gold, just straight metal on the valve-train. Clean oil, Honda oil filter. I think I lucked out. Had to do the crank-sensor delete wire trick, doesn't idle perfect, but runs amazing besides the fact. Using the D16Y7 ECU, so that could be why, plus the lack of a crank sensor.
@@hegeliandetective1034 hm, I've been working with d15b7s for past six years and never came across one with a crank sensor. Am i missing something? Where is it located?
Yep, collision cars can be great for used engines. I pulled a nearly perfect F22A6 out of a 92 Accord sedan, only had 135k on it. Car was in immaculate condition except that it had been t-boned. Felt bad for the car but I gave the engine a good home in my Accord wagon.
I'm not sure which is more ridiculous; you claiming to know 200 people, your flippant dismissal of the Accord wagon, your untimely reply to a three year old comment, or your tenuous grasp of the English language.
I purchased a 97' Civic with a d16y7 with 190000 miles a few years ago. Just sold it with 325000 miles and still runs great. It was a 5spd and the guy who bought it is going to teach his kids to drive a manual!
Eric I am here in Bolivia where I have lived for the last 25 years. We get second use engines and trans here and many people just buy a used engine and change it rather than rebuild. You are correct on seals. After a used engine has set idle for a while the seals degrade. Many down here change the oil seals and then take off timing chain Then they will pull rocker arms and change valve seals without pulling head. A soft nylon rope stuffed in the plug hole will make a nest and with piston up will allow you to pull valve keepers and springs to replace seals. Reassemble and change timing gears and chain if necessary. Many engines run out well after doing this. Just what I have seen here. Regards
@@40redman hello. Yes I did that on a Nissan Sentra I have here. Oil consumption was about 1 quart 1000 miles. In the tail pipe it didn’t look like burnt oil but rather was oily to the touch making me think it was the valve seals. The engine had 205000 kilometers. We changed the oil seals and completely cured the oil consumption problem. We did do a compression check before and compression was good which gave me more faith in the rings. After pulling plugs and taking off timing chain and rocker shafts I used about 1 mtr of 1/4 inch soft nylon rope and with piston down fed as much of the rope as possible into cylinder. Then I turned crank until engine locked. I removed valve keepers and changed seals. Repeated steps on other 3 cylinders. Cannot imagine it does any damage to pistons or head but keeps the valves steady..Also I had bought a tool on EBay like a slide hammer you can use to remove and replace valve keepers. It worked great.
@@KP-yx1fn I don't know that I'd use the starter to turn over the engine----thought a socket on the crank pulley and doing it by hand would be safer and get the same end result of holding the valve without possibly damaging either the valve or the top of the piston when trying to get the keeper off. Sometimes the keeper is on so tight it won't let go of the valve without really putting alot of force on it. One never knows when a little thing like this can make a world of difference. Keep wrenching!
@@KP-yx1fn I mistakenly thought you had 'cranked' using the starter when you had manually turned the crank to compress the rope. It's a really good idea to do it this way & I will certainly use it the next time I need to replace the valve stem seals on my 289 Mustang
"extended oil change intervals" nice way to say cheap bast@rds that won't do something simple such as an oil and filter change. My current car is 12,500 km / 6 months. Has to go to a mechanic for a service to maintain new car warranty (Australia has whacky rules), however at the 6000km mark I still change the oil and spin on a new filter at home. Cheap , quick and goes a long way towards engine health.
This is an awesome idea! I've made a few mistakes in not properly inspecting an engine. I'll never buy sight-unseen again. This gave a bunch ideas of what to look at. Thanks!
Valuable resource for us DIYers. Good tips. Personally, I'll probably go looking for this video in four years when I recreate my 05 TL into a supercar.
gonna build a j series for my 06 too... maybe start with a j32 from the bottom up, then after that j37 shawd manual? will be cutting a tunnel for the rear diff and putting in a full cage at that point
Many salvage yards are really picky about what they will let you do before you buy the engine or transmission. They usually won't allow you to remove the valve covers or oil pan. In this case, it was already purchased it, and it turned out good.
I've been watching your channel for probably around 5 or so years now, and thanks to your videos I feel a hell of a lot more confident working on my own car, which is good because I just got an AE82 Corolla that needs a bit of TLC, runs great but it's got a few things that need to be buttoned up, and you're videos have given me the knowledge of the things I should listen out for or see before it goes pear shaped. Also one year I received a digital birthday cake :) Thanks for the videos and sharing your knowledge with us!
At this point, this engine is one of my favorites. Just stinks that the more years pass, the older the engine gets. My engine is still going strong in my 99 5 speed coupe. DONT worry Eric, im religious with my oil changes!
My first video of ETCG I ever watched was a video where he cleared a intake manifold clog in a Honda V6 exactly what was wrong with my Honda Odyssey and I followed the video and fix my Honda. I have been watching ever since. That was prolly 8 years ago
This video couldn't have come at a better time for me. I have a 96 Dakota with a head gasket issue & my local mechanic said swapping the engine (3.9 magnum V6) would be cheaper than replacing the gaskets. The nearest scrapyard gave a ballpark estimate of $200 - $300 to sell me a previously owned engine. They said all used engines are test run before being sold, and come with a warranty. I'm a little bit nervous because while my truck is a former EcoLab fleet vehicle and appears quite well maintained... I know nothing about the junkyard engine history. Everything else seems to be in real good shape, & so long as I keep the radiator full, the Dakota runs like a Swiss watch.
Hi Eric I also do very similar checks to what you do when checking a engine over before dropping into the car / van you are really reliant on the seller telling the truth at point of sale .. for example I purchased a Diesel engine from a seller and when I got the engine on the bench it was seized when I tried to turn it over with a breaker bar .. fortunately it seemed if was only surface rust in the bore holding the pistons over a week a dribbled diesel down the removed glow plug holes and the engine released and is now happily still running in my van keep up the good work your a very talented mechanic
I remember a TV program called 'Bangla Bangers'. Custom rebuilt bangers in Bangladesh somewhere. When the guy wanted an engine, he'd go round to a local shed with scores of engines in. He'd pick one and it would be pulled out on the pavement/sidewalk, connected to a battery and a fuel line and started up there and then. :) Ingenious/ engineous I thought.
In this situation that wouldn't work because I would not only need the full harness, but the correct computer to run the engine. You can do as you mention with a carbureted engine all day long, with an EFI engine, not so much. Thanks for the comment.
I remember working at a shop that bought an engine from a junkyard that had supposedly "ran the engine recently" to prove it was good. The first thing I did was pull the plastic timing cover to see if it'd need a new timing belt soon (so much easier to change it while it's out) and it was all full of cobwebs and leaves. Then I tried turn the engine over, it did OK most of the way through the revolution, but it wouldn't turn all the way over. I took the plugs out and tried turn it over again only to watch all that rusty water in the cylinders causing hydrostatic lock run out on the floor. I still advise people to avoid that junkyard 20 years later.
Such great advice!! And a awsome video.i purchased a motor also from eBay for my rx300 and it's been going strong for 1.5 years now. Everything in this video is solid solid advice, nice work 👌 💯
“Trust me I know.” You must be thinking about the time you put that engine in that dodge (I think it was a dodge?) and you came to find out that the engine was seized. I will add from a personal experience, I did the same thing and rotated an engine before buying (Toyota 5SFE) and it spun good and seemed decent. Took it home, pulled the oil pan and found metal debris. Cylinder #1 ate it’s rod bearing and nearly destroyed the crankshaft. That was a fun engine build....
I have a friend who purchased a "Freshly re-built and machined for nitrous" D16Z6 for his project. The guy he bought the engine from was the son of the man who owned and operated the machine shop the engine was built in. Son says, "yeah it's a good engine, was ready to drop it into my car and fire it for the first time but decided to sell instead." Come to find out, it takes a breaker bar and all of your body weight to spin the engine over even without the cylinder head installed. Mind you, this engine doesn't have a single mile or start on it since being "built". The piston ring end gaps were also not parallel by the way, had at least a 45 degree angle to the cut. If my friend had trusted this "machine shop" built engine, it would have toasted the bearings or more within 5 minutes if not less of the first start. Always inspect the engine before purchase if possible. I've done a better job rebuilding engines on a dirty garage floor with hand tools than this "professional shop" did with my friends engine.
The oil pump is also responsible for pressure. The volume it puts out through the restrictions (bearings etc) makes the pressure. Worn bearings will flow too much and the pressure will drop but a worn pump wont flow enough to produce the pressure. Both are directly related and I've seen plenty of oil pumps fail leading to low pressure
@@ONeal397 The one with the broken connecting rod was in the donor car. The one with the blown head gasket is in his son's car. The ebay engine is the 3rd engine.
Very thorough and good guide, i'm about to attempt switching out my 2.0l Ecoboost engine and had no idea what to look for from a used engine. Def some good tips, feel a bit more confident now with this guide.
@@ozzayyyy Got a 2014 Ford Escape engine to swap into the ST. Looked over the engine that had bout 45k miles on it and there was oil in cylinders 1 and 4. Big bummer, but i'm continuing the swap for now and sending the current blown engine off to a machinist to see if I can salvage that one and put it back in. As far as the oily engine, its a good candidate to teardown and rebuild for a stronger more bullet proof engine. Maybe a stroker kit.
@ same can be said about even older vehicles... but that narrows the scope of interest for content. Eric is a good youtuber and has potential for growth if he mixed it up with newer vehicles. Thats all.
Even though it has "off brand" plugs, AT LEAST THEY CHANGED THEM...Got a horrible running Ford Six pickup once $250, it had 2 plugs that were NEVER CHANGED! They had a gap over .125" LOL!...I like Bosch and NGK in my 1NZ-FE Toyota engines... in fact I am running an "EK - Dual Electrode NGK" in my one 1NZ engine, and surprisingly it seems to start better on very cold days... -40°F/C and it popped right off not plugged in, YES I NOW have block heaters!
I just bought a ford 2.5 for my 2011 ford escape paid $270 bucks has 150 k miles an i went the the a salvage yard with great review only negative i have about my engine is a crack in oil pan no to bad just going to get on from junkyard
Eric, I need help with a 2000 4runner v6 auto. Its getting dangerous with the brakes on wet roads ONLY...During dry weather it brakes just fine! On wet roads, moderate braking from above 40mph, the brakes feel like they lose all power and they shudder. Almost had a rear end accident. Mechanics here are very expensive. Already did brake flush, fluid check, and brakes and rotors replaced. Thank you for your time! Big fan.
Had that coolant hose below the distributor on my 92 accord burst on me one day on my way home from work. Limped it home 30 miles away without getting it to hot had zero coolant when I got home
@@ericthecarguy the video is hard to get understand for me. Please make videos on checking directly the blow by gas from engine oil cap cover by placing hands or paper in brand new cars and old cars. That will be simple and easily identify.
One thing you *definitely* know about an engine from a vehicle that was in a collision -- it was a running, working engine until the car was hit, that's for sure. You don't necessarily know how *well* it was running, but you know it was powering the vehicle -- otherwise it wouldn't have been on the road.
You don't know that a vehicle involved in a collision was on the road. Often times a drunk truck driver will switch off at the wheel and drive into stationary vehicles
Your comment about the pump not producing pressure but volume is technically correct with a caveat. Pressure is created with a volume being restricted. If the pump is producing lower volumes even if the other components are within correct specs pressure would be low in that case the pump would be responsible for low oil pressure. I'm sure you already know this and was making that statement as a simplified generality for this video.
I did mention that it was actually the clearances of the bearings that are responsible for oil psi, not the pump. The video linked in the description goes into more detail. That said, it is a common misconception that the oil pump is responsible for oil pressure and that's what I was speaking to in this video. Thanks for the comment.
sorry for saying that, but oil pump makes pressure too, as well as volume. The pump that almost doesn't make pressure is water/coolant pump, it creates huge volume, but there's a huge gap between blades that can't hold any pressure. So volume + pressure that's made by compressing oil in rotary pump. And excessive "pressure" (again) is discharged by pressure valve (in oil pump). If the pump doesn't create pressure - there's no need in safety valve.
Good guide. Most places offer a 90 day warrantee, I'm usually too slow and my junk sits around too long for that to matter. I buy cars from copart wrecked but running and driving, I prefer this because I know someone was driving it until it was totaled.
Same here I've had some very smooth running engines out of copart plus if you get it for a good price and sell the rest of the parts you got a free engine in the end.
@@bendude6748 for sure, most cheap cars are worth more dead than alive. Sometimes you run into gems like my Saturn l200, a mild quarter panel dent totaled it. $850 after the auction fees/registration and I had a daily driver.
@@ExtraFungus yeah definitely the odd bargain on there, I’m from the UK so we don’t have the Saturn here but I got a Lexus IS for £600 with fees, just needed a headlight and bumper drives great I gave it to my other half as a daily driver.
I had to buy another engine for my 03 Element since couldn't find the knock lol . I picked the cleanest one they had 😎, so far had no problems . I just have to fix the A/C
How much would you pay for a 2007 Lincoln Town Car Designer with 31,000 miles? The car is in MINT CONDITION and the Seller is asking $15k and the KBB is $8-10k. Also its off white, beige interior, fully loaded with a custom landeu soft top$$, gold grille/hood ornament. Still has a dealer tag on the back seat. Im in rural Western Kansas and vehicles are harder to find and more expensive than in big cities. I absolutely love these cars!
Would a leak down test be more appropriate at this point with the engine on the ground. I mean you can't do the compression test, but you can hook up air and rotate the engine just to ensure that all valves seal there isn't a bent valve.
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@@steveo782812 Good question. I would be curious to see eric's opinion on this.
@ As someone who wrenches, semi-professionally now, but used to do it full time, (mostly hot rods now) A leak down test is a pretty good test too...the Aviation industry uses it almost exclusively... an engine on the floor like that, it may be the only logical choice, its better than "nothing"...
Im with you on that BUT recently my 67k mile 5.7 Hemi had a #3,#5 cyl misfire, but tested great for compression, very long story short, it took removing the valve cover, rotating the engine to see both rockers barley moving. Bad cam lobe, faulty lifters.
What’s your opinion on remanufactured engines. I had one installed on my son’s 97 Grand Prix and the install shop didn’t bother to change the plugs. I decided to do a tune up cause I didn’t like the way the car was running. I had a hell of a time pulling out the rear plugs. They were rusty! The engine was bought through a Goodyear repair shop. Lesson trust but verify your purchase. They gave me a warranty as the engine came from a big engine remanufactured shop. The car also developed an oil leak in less than a year. I have a feeling that it came from a junkyard. Lesson learned
eric what happened to your son's honda civic overheating? is it a head gasket? or something more worse? whats the milage on the car? I still drive a 99 civic just replaced a head gasket last year small head gasket leak started overheating.
We have a japanese import dealer in Toronto, Canada that I've dealt with. I purchased a motor from them in the past. I bought a 1.5 vtec for my base 1994 hatch. I think I paid around $400 CDN. I also had to tune my computer for the vtec and run a couple new wires. My original motor was burning oil badly (looked like a 2 stroke dirt bike when I gave her the beans!). Anyway I think the new motor was supposed to be low miles as well (less than 60,000km). Stay Dirty!!
This video is giving me withdrawal symptoms. I can't wait to get back to pulling bits of car apart. I don't always know what I'm doing, but it's almost a kind of therapy. Thanks for the update - still the best on UA-cam.
Wish you would do one on motor control computers and such, as I saw one die sometime ago at a friend's car, and he had a lot of trouble to get a replacement for it.
My first car was an 05 hyundai elantra and i went to change the valve cover gasket and when i took that thing off i was not happy to find that every single part of that engine had oil baked on to everything...the previous owners likely maintained it only enough to keep it running and then traded it in at 100k miles when the warranty ran out. I hate turds like that
Hey I've been trying to ask you a question about a Honda Accord a 2000 it won't go over $3,000 RPMs I change fuel injectors I changed distributor and the idle air control valve still having the same problem it's saying that it lost signal.I even change the crankshaft sensor took it all the way down to the timing make sure the timing was right on it what do you think the problem could be
Computer in limp mode...valve cover to chassie... there a brass eyelet that should be attached to water outlet as a ground..make sure your connecters are together..they can be apart n not clicked together...but look like there together,must click..
A glance through those exposed exhaust manifold ports would've offered a visual of the valves, the valve seats, and perhaps part of the valve stems & guides of the valves that are open. I would've been tempted to rebuild but I guess it probably wouldn't be worth it, in either expense or effort. I just wasted an enormous amount of time replacing rusted-out rocker panels, a wheel-well, the floorboards and a portion of a rusted-out windshield pinchweld on an Uplander that'll never be worth the effort invested. Not to mention I harvested the parts from a junkyard that didn't allow cutting torches, so the rather thick metal had to be chiseled out...caveman style. Oh, and I had to drop the cradle to replace the tranny as well. Of course those hidden frame nuts broke free internally so I had to cut access holes in the floorboards and the frame rails get a socket on 'em to drop the cradle. The things we do for family. Next I have to replace a BAYA 5spd trans in a 2004 Honda Accord EX 3.0 which I'm not looking forward to considering how difficult it was just to drop one out of a donor car.
I love this because it's a blue collar guy taking care of the vehicles for his blue collar kids. That's us. What they drive isn't perfect or shiny new, but I know their cars inside out, I trust them to run every day and it's better for me to handle the car crap for them. Thanks Eric.
@@CurrentOutcast because that isn't an M54 on the hoist
Nah, I have an amazing white collar job and I drive an 06 xb with 340k miles. Buying a new car is easy but keeping an old car running is way more fun. Plus this car got me to where I'm today (hand-me-down from parents when I was 18 and I'm 24 now).
I love your Honda content.
The more Honda content you put, the more viewers you will get.
Of course, you already have 1.5 Million viewers.
I had an oil pump failure on a Jeep 4.0 ... shop talked me into a used engine swap as the bearing might have scored ? .... price was decent as there are many in salvage places ... engine worked fine for 6 months ... but eventually discovered the flywheel was cracked on the replacement (during ship/storage ?) ... new flywheel install was almost as much as the used replacement ... shop was far away and would not cover that cost from another shop ... lesson learned was a "New" rebuilt engine could have been installed for the combined cost of used engine and eventual repair ... other than that, the used engine has held up well .. 250k on the 2000 Cherokee, mostly rebuilt from the ground up a few times, drives and looks like new ... my second one in 35 years ... I always enjoy Eric's tips ... always learn something ... subbed for a while now
Sorry to hear about that. I covered this topic in this video. ua-cam.com/video/KWjF56tFzRg/v-deo.html
@@ericthecarguy ... hey it happens, the crack could have happened in shipping/transport ... and not noticed ? ... i grew up in the business, so i have an edge although never worked in it/repairs etc were all just on my vehicles ... so i appreciate watching your video's, I always learn something, or tip, tricks of the trade .... had many vehicles over the years, work truck, exotics, classics ... been lucky, but I maintain my vehicles well ... do most of my own work and have all the tools ... saved a lot of money, had reliable vehicles ... I fix/replace before they break .. I've been a sub for a long time, loved the rebuild of your dads truck, cool sleeper ride .. don't even know the miles on that swap engine ... but you know those old 4.0 cast iron sixes are solid ... Jeep has 250k on it and still looks sweet, great daily driver, but I retired this year ... got 300k out of my other 89 Cherokee ... can't beat that for reliability .... keep up the nice work Eric ... it helps a lot of people ... that's good Karma
and if I can I buy good replacement parts ... that is also a good investment ... cheap parts wear out in a year or two ... not worth the double work or hassle ... I change my oil every 2,000 miles ... was taught oil is cheap and gets recycled ... and I thank the jeep every time I get in it for being reliable before starting, then pat the console ... been working for decades ... only been towed twice in 45 years ... lol
One nice sign about this engine and how it was maintained: no Fram Oil Filter! If I see that orange filter, I usually pass on larger items.
God, I hate Fram filters. I wouldn't go as far as to completely dismiss an engine because of it though. I'd rather have an engine that had proper oil changes with a fram, than little or no oil changes with an OEM filter haha.
Fram was the OEM supplier for Honda years ago. Still is for other makes.
An exception is Fram Ultra Synthetic. The Fram Ultra Synthetic is actually a quality filter.
Used to buy straight from Japan. Engines won't meet environmental spec after 30k. Got some killer deals back in the day. This is familiar terrain.
Yup, Japan specifies engine or car replacement after 7 years or something. US won’t allow auto imports until cars are much older but engines probably low mileage and great condition can.
@@tomtheplummer7322 you can buy parts from Japan you just can't buy an entire car unless it's more than 25 years old and you go through all the bullshit of importing it! "Half cuts" are also pretty common where they basically sell you the front half of whatever car you want so that you get the entire drivetrain and all the wiring and everything for your swap!!
Do you have a website where you bought these engines directly from Japan?
@@cucumber9864 they exist still but the company I dealt with was called TriStar out of Dallas. I don't think they're in business anymore. Probably look using key words . Used from japan or some such.
Wow, my comment became gibberish. Thanks, UA-cam! I only buy used engines from rear enders, or t-bones - no front end or especially rollovers. Those can run for several minutes without oil - modern engines have ZERO tolerance for that!
When I was driving for a trash hauler, I had just finished my day and was headed back to the shop when this little VW Jetta came screaming around an offramp, ignored the stop sign, and drove straight into my tandems at 40 MPH as I was doing 40 MPH! The sight in my side mirror was quite amazing - like watching a movie! The car became airborne while spinning, shedding parts in every direction! It did 2 full 360's before landing with the entire front end torn off the car. Just a few scuff marks on my tires. The cops arrive, and one of them asks where my damage is - I said just some scuffs on the tires. One cop starts cracking up hysterically and says to the other, "Did you see his f#&$ing car???" And both were rolling! It was funny, though. Guy wasn't hurt but boy did I ring his bell good! Had CA plates on the car. Said he didn't even see the stop sign. "You're kidding!" LOL! The car was still running after all the oil pumped out of the hanging lines where the oil cooler used to be. I heard what sounded like a washing machine full of scrap metal. I told the guy, "You might want to shut that off, in case anything is salvageable." It wasn't ...
i must've got lucky when i got a jdm d15 with supposedly 40k miles off an importer lot in Los Angeles, without even inspecting it. Changed some seals, new timing belt and water pump, didn't even open it, swapped it in a 93 honda civic and six years later, still going strong.
Same. My D15B looked like it was never ran. Looked like zero miles on it. Not a shade of tan/gold, just straight metal on the valve-train. Clean oil, Honda oil filter. I think I lucked out. Had to do the crank-sensor delete wire trick, doesn't idle perfect, but runs amazing besides the fact. Using the D16Y7 ECU, so that could be why, plus the lack of a crank sensor.
@@hegeliandetective1034 hm, I've been working with d15b7s for past six years and never came across one with a crank sensor. Am i missing something? Where is it located?
Yep, collision cars can be great for used engines. I pulled a nearly perfect F22A6 out of a 92 Accord sedan, only had 135k on it. Car was in immaculate condition except that it had been t-boned. Felt bad for the car but I gave the engine a good home in my Accord wagon.
me and the 200 people I know wouldn't be caught dead in an accord wagon. How embarrassing.
I'm not sure which is more ridiculous; you claiming to know 200 people, your flippant dismissal of the Accord wagon, your untimely reply to a three year old comment, or your tenuous grasp of the English language.
I purchased a 97' Civic with a d16y7 with 190000 miles a few years ago. Just sold it with 325000 miles and still runs great.
It was a 5spd and the guy who bought it is going to teach his kids to drive a manual!
Eric I am here in Bolivia where I have lived for the last 25 years. We get second use engines and trans here and many people just buy a used engine and change it rather than rebuild. You are correct on seals. After a used engine has set idle for a while the seals degrade. Many down here change the oil seals and then take off timing chain Then they will pull rocker arms and change valve seals without pulling head. A soft nylon rope stuffed in the plug hole will make a nest and with piston up will allow you to pull valve keepers and springs to replace seals. Reassemble and change timing gears and chain if necessary. Many engines run out well after doing this. Just what I have seen here. Regards
I like the idea of a soft nylon rope----will use that rather than air!
@@40redman hello. Yes I did that on a Nissan Sentra I have here. Oil consumption was about 1 quart 1000 miles. In the tail pipe it didn’t look like burnt oil but rather was oily to the touch making me think it was the valve seals. The engine had 205000 kilometers. We changed the oil seals and completely cured the oil consumption problem. We did do a compression check before and compression was good which gave me more faith in the rings. After pulling plugs and taking off timing chain and rocker shafts I used about 1 mtr of 1/4 inch soft nylon rope and with piston down fed as much of the rope as possible into cylinder. Then I turned crank until engine locked. I removed valve keepers and changed seals. Repeated steps on other 3 cylinders. Cannot imagine it does any damage to pistons or head but keeps the valves steady..Also I had bought a tool on EBay like a slide hammer you can use to remove and replace valve keepers. It worked great.
@@KP-yx1fn I don't know that I'd use the starter to turn over the engine----thought a socket on the crank pulley and doing it by hand would be safer and get the same end result of holding the valve without possibly damaging either the valve or the top of the piston when trying to get the keeper off. Sometimes the keeper is on so tight it won't let go of the valve without really putting alot of force on it. One never knows when a little thing like this can make a world of difference. Keep wrenching!
@@40redman did not use starter turned crank with wrench on crankshaft . turns easily with plugs out and rocker shafts off.
@@KP-yx1fn I mistakenly thought you had 'cranked' using the starter when you had manually turned the crank to compress the rope. It's a really good idea to do it this way & I will certainly use it the next time I need to replace the valve stem seals on my 289 Mustang
"extended oil change intervals" nice way to say cheap bast@rds that won't do something simple such as an oil and filter change. My current car is 12,500 km / 6 months. Has to go to a mechanic for a service to maintain new car warranty (Australia has whacky rules), however at the 6000km mark I still change the oil and spin on a new filter at home. Cheap , quick and goes a long way towards engine health.
This is an awesome idea! I've made a few mistakes in not properly inspecting an engine. I'll never buy sight-unseen again. This gave a bunch ideas of what to look at. Thanks!
Valuable resource for us DIYers. Good tips. Personally, I'll probably go looking for this video in four years when I recreate my 05 TL into a supercar.
gonna build a j series for my 06 too... maybe start with a j32 from the bottom up, then after that j37 shawd manual? will be cutting a tunnel for the rear diff and putting in a full cage at that point
Many salvage yards are really picky about what they will let you do before you buy the engine or transmission. They usually won't allow you to remove the valve covers or oil pan.
In this case, it was already purchased it, and it turned out good.
I've been watching your channel for probably around 5 or so years now, and thanks to your videos I feel a hell of a lot more confident working on my own car, which is good because I just got an AE82 Corolla that needs a bit of TLC, runs great but it's got a few things that need to be buttoned up, and you're videos have given me the knowledge of the things I should listen out for or see before it goes pear shaped. Also one year I received a digital birthday cake :) Thanks for the videos and sharing your knowledge with us!
Thank you very much for the comment and good luck with the Toyota. Those are great cars.
@@ericthecarguy You're very welcome and I'm looking forward to getting my hands dirty :)
At this point, this engine is one of my favorites. Just stinks that the more years pass, the older the engine gets. My engine is still going strong in my 99 5 speed coupe. DONT worry Eric, im religious with my oil changes!
Sold mine 3 years ago to a friend w/242,000miles, and the timing belt snapped on the freeway going 75. I was very sad this is how it died.
Good advice as usual Eric.
My first video of ETCG I ever watched was a video where he cleared a intake manifold clog in a Honda V6 exactly what was wrong with my Honda Odyssey and I followed the video and fix my Honda. I have been watching ever since. That was prolly 8 years ago
Eric, el vato de los carro's! Might not be correct but that's the way I'd say it in spanish 😁
That's exactly how I would say it.
Awebo
This video couldn't have come at a better time for me.
I have a 96 Dakota with a head gasket issue & my local mechanic said swapping the engine (3.9 magnum V6) would be cheaper than replacing the gaskets.
The nearest scrapyard gave a ballpark estimate of $200 - $300 to sell me a previously owned engine.
They said all used engines are test run before being sold, and come with a warranty.
I'm a little bit nervous because while my truck is a former EcoLab fleet vehicle and appears quite well maintained... I know nothing about the junkyard engine history.
Everything else seems to be in real good shape, & so long as I keep the radiator full, the Dakota runs like a Swiss watch.
Love your channel! Thanks for posting this. Very useful to us Honda-philes.
You are the best mechanic on you tube
Hi Eric I also do very similar checks to what you do when checking a engine over before dropping into the car / van you are really reliant on the seller telling the truth at point of sale .. for example I purchased a Diesel engine from a seller and when I got the engine on the bench it was seized when I tried to turn it over with a breaker bar .. fortunately it seemed if was only surface rust in the bore holding the pistons over a week a dribbled diesel down the removed glow plug holes and the engine released and is now happily still running in my van keep up the good work your a very talented mechanic
I remember a TV program called 'Bangla Bangers'. Custom rebuilt bangers in Bangladesh somewhere. When the guy wanted an engine, he'd go round to a local shed with scores of engines in. He'd pick one and it would be pulled out on the pavement/sidewalk, connected to a battery and a fuel line and started up there and then. :) Ingenious/ engineous I thought.
In this situation that wouldn't work because I would not only need the full harness, but the correct computer to run the engine. You can do as you mention with a carbureted engine all day long, with an EFI engine, not so much. Thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy Quite agree. I wasn't thinking too deeply about it. :) They were bangers, so not hi-tech.
I remember working at a shop that bought an engine from a junkyard that had supposedly "ran the engine recently" to prove it was good. The first thing I did was pull the plastic timing cover to see if it'd need a new timing belt soon (so much easier to change it while it's out) and it was all full of cobwebs and leaves. Then I tried turn the engine over, it did OK most of the way through the revolution, but it wouldn't turn all the way over. I took the plugs out and tried turn it over again only to watch all that rusty water in the cylinders causing hydrostatic lock run out on the floor. I still advise people to avoid that junkyard 20 years later.
Such great advice!! And a awsome video.i purchased a motor also from eBay for my rx300 and it's been going strong for 1.5 years now. Everything in this video is solid solid advice, nice work 👌 💯
What I see mostly on used engine ads, is the fact that they're ALWAYS "low mileage" 🤔
Better off getting them from Japan, they don't have as many miles as the ones from America
more like....freshly rebuilt. Rebuilt = new spark plugs, new valve cover gasket, new spark plug wires. LOL
To their logic: Low miles =100kmiles
Is there a reliable website for these engines from Japan?
@@cucumber9864 hmmotorsonline is pretty popular but they only do Honda/Acura engines
“Trust me I know.” You must be thinking about the time you put that engine in that dodge (I think it was a dodge?) and you came to find out that the engine was seized. I will add from a personal experience, I did the same thing and rotated an engine before buying (Toyota 5SFE) and it spun good and seemed decent. Took it home, pulled the oil pan and found metal debris. Cylinder #1 ate it’s rod bearing and nearly destroyed the crankshaft. That was a fun engine build....
Yep, that's the one. Thanks for the comment.
I have a friend who purchased a "Freshly re-built and machined for nitrous" D16Z6 for his project. The guy he bought the engine from was the son of the man who owned and operated the machine shop the engine was built in. Son says, "yeah it's a good engine, was ready to drop it into my car and fire it for the first time but decided to sell instead." Come to find out, it takes a breaker bar and all of your body weight to spin the engine over even without the cylinder head installed. Mind you, this engine doesn't have a single mile or start on it since being "built". The piston ring end gaps were also not parallel by the way, had at least a 45 degree angle to the cut. If my friend had trusted this "machine shop" built engine, it would have toasted the bearings or more within 5 minutes if not less of the first start. Always inspect the engine before purchase if possible. I've done a better job rebuilding engines on a dirty garage floor with hand tools than this "professional shop" did with my friends engine.
The oil pump is also responsible for pressure. The volume it puts out through the restrictions (bearings etc) makes the pressure.
Worn bearings will flow too much and the pressure will drop but a worn pump wont flow enough to produce the pressure.
Both are directly related and I've seen plenty of oil pumps fail leading to low pressure
After the engine replacement, do a rebuild on the one with the blown gasket
You mean the one with the broken connecting rod?
@@ONeal397 The one with the broken connecting rod was in the donor car. The one with the blown head gasket is in his son's car. The ebay engine is the 3rd engine.
Very thorough and good guide, i'm about to attempt switching out my 2.0l Ecoboost engine and had no idea what to look for from a used engine. Def some good tips, feel a bit more confident now with this guide.
Any updates?
@@ozzayyyy Got a 2014 Ford Escape engine to swap into the ST. Looked over the engine that had bout 45k miles on it and there was oil in cylinders 1 and 4. Big bummer, but i'm continuing the swap for now and sending the current blown engine off to a machinist to see if I can salvage that one and put it back in.
As far as the oily engine, its a good candidate to teardown and rebuild for a stronger more bullet proof engine. Maybe a stroker kit.
Eric should talk more about newer vehicles and technologies. He's got a good fan base
Thats Because its cheaper to fix a older well built car than buy a new one. Whole point in his channel
@ same can be said about even older vehicles... but that narrows the scope of interest for content. Eric is a good youtuber and has potential for growth if he mixed it up with newer vehicles. Thats all.
Even though it has "off brand" plugs, AT LEAST THEY CHANGED THEM...Got a horrible running Ford Six pickup once $250, it had 2 plugs that were NEVER CHANGED! They had a gap over .125" LOL!...I like Bosch and NGK in my 1NZ-FE Toyota engines... in fact I am running an "EK - Dual Electrode NGK" in my one 1NZ engine, and surprisingly it seems to start better on very cold days... -40°F/C and it popped right off not plugged in, YES I NOW have block heaters!
Thank you so much for those messages you do send online, it has helped me a lot.
Eric is the best youtuber ever!!
Good to know!
I just bought a ford 2.5 for my 2011 ford escape paid $270 bucks has 150 k miles an i went the the a salvage yard with great review only negative i have about my engine is a crack in oil pan no to bad just going to get on from junkyard
This is my first period class!!!!!
a few seals and gaskets is a great way to go saves lots of work down the road thumbs up shared
Thanks ETCG1!
Excellent information to know!
Eric, I need help with a 2000 4runner v6 auto. Its getting dangerous with the brakes on wet roads ONLY...During dry weather it brakes just fine! On wet roads, moderate braking from above 40mph, the brakes feel like they lose all power and they shudder. Almost had a rear end accident. Mechanics here are very expensive. Already did brake flush, fluid check, and brakes and rotors replaced. Thank you for your time! Big fan.
Thank you Eric. Very useful video. Keep up the good work.
Had that coolant hose below the distributor on my 92 accord burst on me one day on my way home from work. Limped it home 30 miles away without getting it to hot had zero coolant when I got home
Good info for anyone. Thanks Eric
Love the Honda content
Sir, please show videos on how to compare blowby gas pressure in new and old cars!!
ua-cam.com/video/WgrfT0LFMhc/v-deo.html
@@ericthecarguy the video is hard to get understand for me.
Please make videos on checking directly the blow by gas from engine oil cap cover by placing hands or paper in brand new cars and old cars. That will be simple and easily identify.
great vid Eric keep them coming
One thing you *definitely* know about an engine from a vehicle that was in a collision -- it was a running, working engine until the car was hit, that's for sure. You don't necessarily know how *well* it was running, but you know it was powering the vehicle -- otherwise it wouldn't have been on the road.
You don't know that a vehicle involved in a collision was on the road. Often times a drunk truck driver will switch off at the wheel and drive into stationary vehicles
@@maxbradley9534 Truck Drivers rarely drink (or do drugs) and drive...its their livelihood to keep a good driving record...Your comment is flawed.
Can you take a small compressor and inject air into each cylinder to test compression?
Great video. Good information for the novice DIY person.
If i may add since you had the exhaust manifold out. I woulda look inside to see the valves looking like...great video
Good morning Eric, I’m a novice mechanic who’s working on a 08 keep grand Cherokee
Thanks for taking this video. Watching this before heading to a wrecker haha.
Thank you Eric,
I always use the plug wires to fish the plug out
Your comment about the pump not producing pressure but volume is technically correct with a caveat. Pressure is created with a volume being restricted. If the pump is producing lower volumes even if the other components are within correct specs pressure would be low in that case the pump would be responsible for low oil pressure. I'm sure you already know this and was making that statement as a simplified generality for this video.
I did mention that it was actually the clearances of the bearings that are responsible for oil psi, not the pump. The video linked in the description goes into more detail. That said, it is a common misconception that the oil pump is responsible for oil pressure and that's what I was speaking to in this video. Thanks for the comment.
At the speed you said "I'm Eric the car guy", I swore I heard you said "American car guy"... Which wouldn't be wrong either...
Very informative video!!! Keep it up
That's what she said
on line its very risky..but in the salvage yard..you can see what your buying..for me i will go to the yard my self
Ah yes....i remember that Dodge Ram engine swap back in 2011....in that small cold shop.
On the floor...
Thank you USA for the educational video and entertainment I enjoy watching I am from South Africa
Hello South Africa!
Thanks for the info Eric!!!!!
Good video...I trust your experience.
sorry for saying that, but oil pump makes pressure too, as well as volume. The pump that almost doesn't make pressure is water/coolant pump, it creates huge volume, but there's a huge gap between blades that can't hold any pressure.
So volume + pressure that's made by compressing oil in rotary pump. And excessive "pressure" (again) is discharged by pressure valve (in oil pump). If the pump doesn't create pressure - there's no need in safety valve.
I don't mind getting an engine from a, savage yard. However i want to hear it run before i buy it.
I would love to see how much blow by gas is coming out in NEW CARS.
Very true I’ve seen turbo 4 poppers do it pretty bad at times vs N/A 4 poppers
2013 Hyundai turbo 1.6 = 1 full of oil catch can after 2 weeks of mostly highway driving. I'd say it's 1/2 quart.
Good guide. Most places offer a 90 day warrantee, I'm usually too slow and my junk sits around too long for that to matter.
I buy cars from copart wrecked but running and driving, I prefer this because I know someone was driving it until it was totaled.
Same here I've had some very smooth running engines out of copart plus if you get it for a good price and sell the rest of the parts you got a free engine in the end.
@@bendude6748 for sure, most cheap cars are worth more dead than alive. Sometimes you run into gems like my Saturn l200, a mild quarter panel dent totaled it. $850 after the auction fees/registration and I had a daily driver.
@@ExtraFungus yeah definitely the odd bargain on there, I’m from the UK so we don’t have the Saturn here but I got a Lexus IS for £600 with fees, just needed a headlight and bumper drives great I gave it to my other half as a daily driver.
@@bendude6748 the Saturn l200 was built on the Saab 9-5 platform and a few others. So you have them just not exactly the same.
hey Eric, good luck with this one. Any insight on those places that sell used engines from Japan, that supposedly have low miles? thanks
I had to buy another engine for my 03 Element since couldn't find the knock lol . I picked the cleanest one they had 😎, so far had no problems .
I just have to fix the A/C
You buy eng online or at junkyard?
@@ozzayyyy I went to a place to had all JDM motors . I paid like 500 and 700 to get it put on lol
How much would you pay for a 2007 Lincoln Town Car Designer with 31,000 miles? The car is in MINT CONDITION and the Seller is asking $15k and the KBB is $8-10k.
Also its off white, beige interior, fully loaded with a custom landeu soft top$$, gold grille/hood ornament. Still has a dealer tag on the back seat.
Im in rural Western Kansas and vehicles are harder to find and more expensive than in big cities. I absolutely love these cars!
Thanks for the great tips Eric i will be sure to look out for things in the future when buying a used engines Thanks....
awesome video and you are just like my dad he also liked cars as well
Collusion cars on my favorite for parts
Except for front end parts lol
Without a final compression test, you won’t know much about the health of the engine.
In my experience the plugs tell you a lot about the engine and how it was maintained. Thanks for the comment.
Would a leak down test be more appropriate at this point with the engine on the ground. I mean you can't do the compression test, but you can hook up air and rotate the engine just to ensure that all valves seal there isn't a bent valve.
@@steveo782812 Good question. I would be curious to see eric's opinion on this.
@ As someone who wrenches, semi-professionally now, but used to do it full time, (mostly hot rods now) A leak down test is a pretty good test too...the Aviation industry uses it almost exclusively... an engine on the floor like that, it may be the only logical choice, its better than "nothing"...
Im with you on that BUT recently my 67k mile 5.7 Hemi had a #3,#5 cyl misfire, but tested great for compression, very long story short, it took removing the valve cover, rotating the engine to see both rockers barley moving. Bad cam lobe, faulty lifters.
What’s your opinion on remanufactured engines. I had one installed on my son’s 97 Grand Prix
and the install shop didn’t bother to change the plugs. I decided to do a tune up cause I didn’t like the way the car was running. I had a hell of a time pulling out the rear plugs. They were rusty! The engine was bought through a Goodyear repair shop. Lesson trust but verify your purchase. They gave me a warranty as the engine came from a big engine remanufactured shop. The car also developed an oil leak in less than a year. I have a feeling that it came from a junkyard.
Lesson learned
Nice details. How can I tell if the milage listed on a used engine online eg ebay is actual?
Thanks Eric! Love your videos! It is always information that I can trust!👍🏾
The explanation is so awesome, I hope you make videos on engine restoration too.. Cause wow 👌👌
Eric why not change the timing belt why engine it's out?
eric what happened to your son's honda civic overheating? is it a head gasket? or something more worse?
whats the milage on the car? I still drive a 99 civic just replaced a head gasket last year small head gasket leak started overheating.
All those answers and more in next week’s video.
thanks for sharing some tips mate.
We have a japanese import dealer in Toronto, Canada that I've dealt with. I purchased a motor from them in the past. I bought a 1.5 vtec for my base 1994 hatch. I think I paid around $400 CDN. I also had to tune my computer for the vtec and run a couple new wires. My original motor was burning oil badly (looked like a 2 stroke dirt bike when I gave her the beans!). Anyway I think the new motor was supposed to be low miles as well (less than 60,000km). Stay Dirty!!
Don't forget the timing belt and water pump too
Great video. Thank you.
Eric... Car-Part.com is a pretty good place, I use it weekly!
Linked in the description.
This video is giving me withdrawal symptoms. I can't wait to get back to pulling bits of car apart. I don't always know what I'm doing, but it's almost a kind of therapy. Thanks for the update - still the best on UA-cam.
Pulling bits of cars apart is very good therapy. Great to see you again.
Right on time
Awesome Video !
Wish you would do one on motor control computers and such, as I saw one die sometime ago at a friend's car, and he had a lot of trouble to get a replacement for it.
My first car was an 05 hyundai elantra and i went to change the valve cover gasket and when i took that thing off i was not happy to find that every single part of that engine had oil baked on to everything...the previous owners likely maintained it only enough to keep it running and then traded it in at 100k miles when the warranty ran out. I hate turds like that
Hey I've been trying to ask you a question about a Honda Accord a 2000 it won't go over $3,000 RPMs I change fuel injectors I changed distributor and the idle air control valve still having the same problem it's saying that it lost signal.I even change the crankshaft sensor took it all the way down to the timing make sure the timing was right on it what do you think the problem could be
Could be bad computer...make sure your water outlet is grounded...hondas are funny about grounds
Check ground on water outlet..n valve cover...must be there..computers do go bad also..
@@joemonroe9402 thanks for the response I'll check it first thing tomorrow
Computer in limp mode...valve cover to chassie... there a brass eyelet that should be attached to water outlet as a ground..make sure your connecters are together..they can be apart n not clicked together...but look like there together,must click..
I'm sorry I was distracted by that secksy TL in the background :) Please more TL vids.
Great video, wouldn't you do the timing whilst it's out.
Idk but newer Toyota 4 bangers you can’t directly see the camshaft or roller rockers due to a screen, On my frontier with the Qr25 you can.
Do you not like NGK wires for Hondas? I feel like that is the correct replacement, I'd love to know your thoughts.
Pumps never make pressure it's always the resistance to flow
Does it matter if you are going to do a full rebuild using only the block?
Run it up to see oil psi.? Do a leak down test in cylinders?
A glance through those exposed exhaust manifold ports would've offered a visual of the valves, the valve seats, and perhaps part of the valve stems & guides of the valves that are open. I would've been tempted to rebuild but I guess it probably wouldn't be worth it, in either expense or effort. I just wasted an enormous amount of time replacing rusted-out rocker panels, a wheel-well, the floorboards and a portion of a rusted-out windshield pinchweld on an Uplander that'll never be worth the effort invested. Not to mention I harvested the parts from a junkyard that didn't allow cutting torches, so the rather thick metal had to be chiseled out...caveman style. Oh, and I had to drop the cradle to replace the tranny as well. Of course those hidden frame nuts broke free internally so I had to cut access holes in the floorboards and the frame rails get a socket on 'em to drop the cradle. The things we do for family. Next I have to replace a BAYA 5spd trans in a 2004 Honda Accord EX 3.0 which I'm not looking forward to considering how difficult it was just to drop one out of a donor car.