Great video. As a mechanic just a word to the wise. Remove jewelry before working on a car, especially around a battery. I've seen a man burn his finger to the bone with a wedding band.
I've been that guy.. forgot I put my ring on and then touched to the battery post for a split second. 2nd degree burn and now I'm forever branded as a married man. I left the melted spot on the ring as a reminder.
I love the ways that you guys install the electrical box panel. Itsata complete hidden place and easy to access wit no additional drillig! I will have to look into it and perhaps have someone install it for me. Thanks!
Really would love to put a system like this in my 4Runner! Cool feature I would like to add is to have the stock inverter run off the second battery and have it operate at all times.
Awesome job as always I’ve been considering a Redarc after meeting them at Overland East. You’ve solidified the decision for me. Keep up the great work.
You folks timing was perfect, I ordered a 4-Runner today and was in the process of researching how properly to install a second battery. Thanks for the information, and Yep, I subscribed.
Found your channel when searching for some overland 12v setup tips. Laughed so hard at the channel intro I hit subscribe before even watching the video. Watched till the end, still subscribed. :) Going to have to check out the rest of the videos. I'd really like to put together an overland rig. At first I was thinking about doing so out of an old squarebody Suburban but think I may go with a newer suburban instead.
Just a suggestion, as I recently did an almost identical setup, but with a lithium, BCDC1250D & 0AWG cables for the current draw. You should physically move your Victron current shunt up to your AUX battery, terminate all negatives to the load side & just the AUX batt neg to the “Battery Only” side of the shunt. Then it will actively monitor the charge going into the battery from the Redarc as well as the draw from it. Then you might actually see some positive current figures instead of constant -3.5A for e.g. It will also give you a true indication of battery terminal voltage & not post the loss of the 4AWG cable run to the rear of your vehicle. The shunt also has an “Aux” input, connect that to your starter battery & you can monitor the terminal voltage of that as well. Enables you to set audible alarms if it drops below a threshold. Victron also supplies a long (10m from memory) comms cable in the kit to go between the shunt & BMV-712.
After seeing your comment we reached out to Victron and it turns out you are correct. We do have it wired incorrectly. The way we show in the video is how the company who designed our system told us to wire the shunt. Thank you for pointing out the mistake in a kindly, respectful manner.
Wanderlost Overland No problem! Thanks for the reply. You have a great channel & I enjoy watching it! I’m genuinely amazed at some of the advice people are given from ‘professionals’ when it comes to 12v systems. If you’re interested, you can see my setup on Instagram @rickis.r51
Great video Guys. Overland Power Solutions is awesome. They came out to our TREC (Tennessee Rover Enthusiasts Community) 10 year celebration in February 2020. David and Tommy both are great people. We're building our overland LR3 now and OPS is on the list. Thanks for making a video going into such detail.
Awesome, thanks for watching! If you have any questions at all, now or when you're installing, give us a shout. We'd be very happy to help. You can also contact us directly through FB and Insta.
Question, Wouldn't it be better to put the breaker closer to the starter battery? From my understanding, one should always put fuses/circuit breakers as close as possible to the power source. Please correct me if i am wrong. Thanks in advance for any feedback.
Thanks guys - a great help for installing my new system using Redarc, Engel and Amptron Lithium 100ah in prep for my trek into central Australia- I have a Toyota Hilux with lift on aluminium canopy - John in SA
Wow this is making me question if I even need solar for my van. And having a set up where you can add a panel later sounds ideal. Running a fridge for twenty hours with only about one volt in drop is really impressive.
I dont mean to be offtopic but does anybody know a method to log back into an instagram account..? I somehow forgot the login password. I would love any tips you can give me.
@Pablo Maxim Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and Im in the hacking process atm. Seems to take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
Wow 14.8 volt agm battery? I have an agm battery, it charges to 14 .4 and works great, its a secondary battery in the back of my 01 chevy express conversion van, i only use it at night to sleep, to run a fan and i need to pay attention to what you are doing because i would like to get a small fridge, so i can keep milk cold for my morning coffee, thanks for the video, you are both great, im into the van life, so the van is my home and i go to the gym for showers:)
Having plenty of money goes a very long way in making that possible. More marriages end from financial arguments than any other reason even Infidelity.
Nice, def a quality job. If you still have your Toyota and your Redarc supports lithium you might want to upgrade the batt. AGM only allows 50% drain where lithium with the same rating and size will let you drain 80% or more if done only occasionally. Lithium has a much longer usable life as well. I can recommend the Renogy batteries. I've been using 2 non smart non bluetooth ones for over 5 years with no issues. I paid over $1000 each, now they're running for only $429 each. Non smart does not mean they don't have self contained battery management systems n temp probes.
That's a really cool video. Looking to do a system like this for my Wrangler. I don't want to go with the standard dual battery that people do and this solution seems perfect.
We've had it installed for well over a year now and are very glad we made the investment. It's truly a no hassle, no problems, it always works when we need it system.
Awesome video, i got a few points. 1) the 5th gen 4runner has a temperature compensated alternator, as such I do not think the blue ignition wire was necessary. Why did you choose to hook it up? 2) In their manual, REDARC does not like breaker and recommend MIDI type fuse, personally, I think a good breaker like the bluesea is not an issue. It will interesting to see how it performs. 3) Did you duse the brown wire? Albeit short run but expect to see 35amps at times. 4) You grounded both batteries together, if the charger is grounded to neg pole of accessory battery, isn't it sufficient? Why adding a ground to the body? 5) Why did you choose AWG 4 wire? Most amps you will see in the engine bay is 35 amps, even with both batteries separated this way, AWG 8 could be enought. However, bigger does not hurt. Sorry for so many questions but hope it could help to clarify. Thanks again for putting time and effort doing this. Cheers
On the wire size from the starter battery to the second battery, it seems to me that the DC-DC charger provides starter battery isolation from load spikes on the second battery. Since there won't be as much inrush current into the DC-DC charger from the starter battery a smaller wire gauge like 8 AWG should be acceptable. Given that the DC-DC converter is rated for 25 amps, and the length is about 9 feet, wire guides recommend 8 AWG. 48 amps is the max current on an 8 AWG wire, which matches the breaker size. 8 seems acceptable and 6 AWG seems like a conservative choice.
I've been anxiously awaiting this video. I just picked up the C4 battery mount a few days ago (C4 is awesome) after looking at all the other very expensive 4runner options out there. Glad to see a more DIY solution and love the rear power panel. Would love to hear about what influenced the various decisions on each of the components (25amp vs 40 amp redarc, AGM battery choice, etc). Thank you again for another great production.
Thanks for watching!"25amp vs 40 amp redarc"- We were up in the air on this too. That's partially why we got help from OPS. They said the 40amp wouldn't be necessary for our application. "AGM battery choice"- Mostly cost. We could either buy a $400 or $200 battery. Both would perform and last about the same. $200 won out. :)
I am the one who likethe bieo here on the youtube and I like how you daid what the battery does and how it can do the things to make life easy in a car a van or a suv
cool video, but I'll mention that redarc doesn't suggest using circuit breakers in the charging line for their BCDC units as they generate a lot of heat. The heat can lead them to popping open when there isn't a fault in the system. Alternativly, they suggest using a MIDI fuse which is very low resistance.
Great vid- real new at this so If I can get a couple answers, things will start to make sense with what I do know: 1) why the circuit breaker over at the second battery 'cable-length' away and not at the primary battery? 2) do the two batteries need to be the same/alike in size/capacity/output? 3) why the need for the 'Anderson' plug? Relevant to your winch application? 4) what was the reason you pick this model DC-DC? Again, this does what a relay does so that when no running, it senses the lack of charge and separates the two batteries?
First; thanks for watching Douglas. I'll try my best to answer your questions. 1) This was a mistake by the engineer of our system. It should be as close as possible to the primary battery, It's getting moved very soon. 2) When using an isolator yes, they must be identical batteries for optimum performance. When using a DC-DC charger like we have, the two batteries can be different types and sizes. 3) The Anderson plug is simply the best at transferring power without any power lose. 4) The Redarc is better at handling the heat under the hood. Yes, it completely cuts ties to the starter battery when the engine is shut off.
@@WanderlostOverland ....cause I have two identical batteries, with the circuit breaker at the wrong one too, oem under driver seat and one in back now. Have a relay in-between but kept forgetting to switch it when needed; shoulda tied into ignition but never got there either. As its a daily driver really I like the DC-DC idea over passive panels. Thanks and safe travels.
Hi, thanks for the video which I have watched about 20 times. I am very ready, thanks to you. In the list of items you have not provided one for the add-a-circuit device. I have been looking around and since I don't know what the actual fuse type is, it is difficult to order one. I know that I can remove the fuse to find out what type it is, and it is disappointing that the owner documentation doesn't say what they are. Would you mind adding a link to the one you used?
You guys are the best. How come you got the 25 amp version instead of the 40amp REDARC? Doing this exact setup in the next few weeks once all the parts come in. Was having trouble thinking about where to mount the actual unit but your solution is great!
Due to our ignorance on how best to keep the second battery charged and healthy we trusted the guys at Overland Power Solutions to choose the components for us. We're not totally certain why they went with the 25amp. It could be because we'll be supplementing with solar. Thanks for watching and if you get a chance, we'd love to see your setup. Please post some pics up on our Facebook page.
Dave from Overland Power Solutions here . . . the BCDC1225 is more than enough to charge a "battery bank" of this capacity. The 25amp output will also easily keep up with the load of this build and scale well for future additions.
Very nice and fun video. First I've seen from you. The setup looks good, especially the dc-dc converter being able to include solar. Will watch update videos on this. Thanks.
It would appear that they subscribe to the same theory as I do,, that being that soldered joints are too rigid and can break and cause issues in an off road vehicle that is flexing and bouncing a lot.
@@wingarddestrehanhighschool6542 maybe, but I prefer a more solid connection in general, with a good amount of slack/service loop to allow for vibration. The only way a break could occur is from wires being stretched too tight, so lengthen things to allow for it and you shouldn’t have a problem if they’re well secured to prevent the stress in the first place.
very nice, since I am such a noob I would have to have more info on all those wires (confusing) but i do have a couple of questions, first: I usually connect the battery to a "battery tender" when not in use (weekdays) will the system charge the main then the back up? and the second question would be similar but with solar panels while camping etc?
With a dc-dc charger, when the engine is turned off the two batteries are completely separated. Hooking a battery tender to one of the batteries will do nothing for the other one. Same goes with the solar panel. If you're hooking the panel up to the second battery by going through the dc-dc charger, it will only charge the second battery.
A bit late but thanks for the reply, I finally decided to do a dual battery set up, I see you have the 40 amp breaker close to the second battery, I’ve been reading that it should be close to the energy source (main battery), seen other people bolting it to the main fuse box close to the main battery, all help is appreciated
LOL I was thinking the same thing in the beginning when she's working on the battery posts and he's just standing there narrating :38 LMAO!!! My ex wife wouldn't have even bothered to hold the camera, no less do the whole job with me! LOLOLOL
Great video. I keep watching this because I am about to setup a dual battery on my truck. I would like to match the size of each wire for my connections. What are the size/gage of each wire?
Awesome channel and a great video! I'm following your video at the moment and it's quite a bit to go through. How did you connect our fridge? I saw the clip where you mentioned to run it directly to the power panel. However, I don't understand how you plugged it to the fridge?Did you just cut the fridge 12v power wires and connected to positive and negative to power panel? I'd appreciate some guidance on that :)
This was an awesome video. I own a 4runner as well and was looking for ideas on doing this when I came across your video. So glad I did! Going to give it a shot. 🤞🏽
You guys rock 17 min video explaining everything 👍👍👍. 2 days of video and 1 or 2 days for editing 😎 keep up the good work, it’s much appreciated. You guy really plan out the custom cut abs and control panels. 👌👌👌👌
Thanks for watching Jeff! In total we put in at least 3 hours per minute of all our video. Up to 5 on our overlanding trip videos. That includes story-boarding, scripting, lighting, props, filming, photos, building graphics, then editing. There's a lot that goes on behind the scenes.
I'm so not there yet in my power needs but I like your setup and could see a similar setup in my future. Although I won't be doing said setup myself, cuz I just don't have the patience for all that, I still watched the video as if I would do it myself.
@9:06 You need to grind the paint off with a wire brush where you ground attaches. I saw someone spray it all with clear coat after it's bolted together to keep it from rusting.
I really enjoy your DYI videos, they are very informative, and funny. Question for you. Why do you not have a fuse or a circuit breaker on the starter battery cable to the secondary battery and from the secondary battery to the rear of the vehicle? It always seem like a good idea to fuse at the source.
That is a very technical setup. You didn't mention cost, but I know all that wasn't cheap ethier! I used a simple isolator and a smaller, simpler panel in the back. I only use a CFX 35 which draws a bit less juice. But it'll easily run 2 days off of a group 29 battery. Yes, it'll take the battery down to 10.8 volts which will more then likely shorten the batteries life. No biggy. I use a cheap $90 deep cycle from Wal-Mart. If I get a year out of it, which I easily will, I'll just replace it. That said...... much respect for a really nice install and a great video!
For the longest time I just ran my refrigerator off the starting battery with a low voltage alarm and disconnect. With solar I installed a second battery with fuses on both ends of the connecting cable. The parking heater neccecitated the added battery capacity.
good video as usual. Does the 4Runner have a smart alternator? I dont believe so, in that case the little blue wire is not needed to connect to ignition circuit?
Thanks for your reply. Glad to learn from guys like you. When you tap into the fuse box, can you close again the lid or does the fuse tap prevents you from doing so? Do you know if there are fuses to do this tap in the engine bay fuse box?
wow just came across your channel looking up lift kits for my 2010 4runner.. liked what you guys are about.. and subbed :) very informative, thank you..
@@WanderlostOverland very clean and informative videos you guys have.. Will be watching for future content, cant wait to one day do a similar project to my 4runner 😁
Thanks Mike! p.s. Just a reminder: Our t-shirt fundraiser for TreadLightly ends October 19th. Make a donation and get a cool Wanderlost t-shirt! Here's the link to our fundraising site. It explains all the details: markmerri.wixsite.com/wanderlost-overland
Did running your blue wire to that fuse work? I finished my install and hooked up to the same fuse and it’s not charging my second battery over 13.5 volts.
Hi There! I did a quick run through of the comments and also watched the video a few times. My question is this: What is the amp hours on that battery you have installed? I am currently budgeting my build to mimic what you have. Thanks, Ted
Great video and thanks for taking the time to post it. Quick question. If having a distribution block with a breaker, do you run the redarc, to the breaker, then to the starter battery? Or redarc to distribution block to breaker to stater. Thanks in advance!
Looks great !! But 2 issues that i have !! 1 is agm batteries hate heat and should never be mounted under the bonnet !! And 2nd is im certain that the dc to dc would also really not like the extreme heat that builds up under the bonnet !! Thats just what ive learnt and been told anyhow !! For agm to go under the hood it needs to be in a vented air box on it own !!
I know this video is 4 years ago, but hopefully someone could answer this noob question. Do you necessarily have to run a ground cable from starter battery to secondary battery? According to the bcdc manual, all grounds connect to chassis only. TIA.
Do you think there is room for a Group 24 battery in there? Its 1 inch taller, otherwise the same. Group 24 has higher amp/hrs available. In your video it looks like there might be enough space above the charger, but it might be tough getting the charger/hold down plate over the hold-down bolt. What do you think?
We're right now testing out a new manufacturer's lithium battery for under the hood. It too is an inch taller. It fits, but just barely. And that back hold down nut is VERY hard to get on.
Ok, so I discovered that I have a group 24 battery right there under my hood to use to mock this up! Dah! It measures 8.75 inches to the top of the posts. I set in place on my C4 battery tray and it looks like it will fit fine. To alleviate the tight access to the rear hold-down nut, I'm thinking of putting a wing nut on it and cutting a slot in my 1/2" plastic board so I can slide my board (with DC/DC charger mounted to it) in place around the all-thread rod, rather than having to come down over it. Sound plausible?
can the current alternator give charge to both the batteries for a long time or do u need to upgrade the alternator? I noticed that the voltage of the second battery is dropping, would that second battery last long?
Where did you get your LED indicator? I tried using a normal 12v one but it would confuse the BCDC and make it think it was a CA battery instead of Li.
I like your ABS cargo door!.......I made mine out of aluminum with a keyed and tabbed closing and you gave Me a thumbs up on T4.org! I needed to be able to open it for storage, but I like the ABS better as a material!
Thanks! p.s. Just a reminder: Our t-shirt fundraiser for TreadLightly ends October 19th. Make a donation and get a cool Wanderlost t-shirt! Here's the link to our fundraising site. It explains all the details: markmerri.wixsite.com/wanderlost-overland
Awesome video and work. Just a few questions 1. Will you be retiring the bussman fuse/relay set up or will you route it to the 2nd battery? 2. Why use 40amp breaker on this set up instead of 80( i think thats what you have on the bussman)? 3. How do decide what is connected to the 2nd batter vs the main. Thanks again for sharing the k bbn knowledge.
Thanks for watching!#1, Nope, the Bussman relay/fuse panel will still be hooked to our starter battery since everything that goes through it are things we mostly use when the engine is running.#2, 40a is plenty for what we're running off the second battery. The busman one is a 100a I believe. WAY more then we need there. We should downsize it in the near future.#3, Like I said in #1; depends on when the accessory is running with the engine running or not. We wanted to really limit what's going through the second battery, so the charge lasts as long as possible.
Great video. I';ll go the full Monty - AC to DC, DC to AC, DC to DC, PV to DC, PV to AC. Heck I even want those lunar panels to charge my batteries at night. Anything to keep my mall crawler amped up!
what gauge wires are running from Redarc out to the fuse, etc.. also, you have a 100 amp from main to the fuse, but only 40 amp to the hook up to the 2nd battery?
We ran 4g + & - cables to the rear. I'm assuming you're referring to the 100amp breaker on the fuse/relay panel near the starter battery. That panel is completely separate from our second battery panel. 100 amps is overkill for it. We should drop it down to 40amp also.
Hi, I really enjoy your videos and I was wondering if you could let me know how to install a second battery that is able to power a heater that is plugged into my car.
Great video. As a mechanic just a word to the wise. Remove jewelry before working on a car, especially around a battery. I've seen a man burn his finger to the bone with a wedding band.
Me too... He was working on an electric golf cart... It was horrible.
Yup seen that too. Buddy was working with his new watch on a telephone switch battery banks and we saw like a welding spark. Zapped!
Unless ur watch rubber and have a ground connection lol
Yes, good advice. I did just that! Not a pretty sight!
I've been that guy.. forgot I put my ring on and then touched to the battery post for a split second. 2nd degree burn and now I'm forever branded as a married man. I left the melted spot on the ring as a reminder.
I love the ways that you guys install the electrical box panel. Itsata complete hidden place and easy to access wit no additional drillig! I will have to look into it and perhaps have someone install it for me. Thanks!
Our pleasure!
Where can I find a parts list. This is one of the best explanations I have seen on an install.
Really would love to put a system like this in my 4Runner! Cool feature I would like to add is to have the stock inverter run off the second battery and have it operate at all times.
Awesome job as always I’ve been considering a Redarc after meeting them at Overland East. You’ve solidified the decision for me. Keep up the great work.
You folks timing was perfect, I ordered a 4-Runner today and was in the process of researching how properly to install a second battery. Thanks for the information, and Yep, I subscribed.
Really like the job done on the ABS plastic on top of battery. Including it being a great idea.
Looks like you all are big Batteries Plus Bulbs fans! I see the battery and the Nebo Larry light. Thank you for your business!
We need them as a sponsor! :)
Found your channel when searching for some overland 12v setup tips. Laughed so hard at the channel intro I hit subscribe before even watching the video. Watched till the end, still subscribed. :) Going to have to check out the rest of the videos. I'd really like to put together an overland rig. At first I was thinking about doing so out of an old squarebody Suburban but think I may go with a newer suburban instead.
Welcome aboard!
Just a suggestion, as I recently did an almost identical setup, but with a lithium, BCDC1250D & 0AWG cables for the current draw. You should physically move your Victron current shunt up to your AUX battery, terminate all negatives to the load side & just the AUX batt neg to the “Battery Only” side of the shunt. Then it will actively monitor the charge going into the battery from the Redarc as well as the draw from it. Then you might actually see some positive current figures instead of constant -3.5A for e.g. It will also give you a true indication of battery terminal voltage & not post the loss of the 4AWG cable run to the rear of your vehicle. The shunt also has an “Aux” input, connect that to your starter battery & you can monitor the terminal voltage of that as well. Enables you to set audible alarms if it drops below a threshold. Victron also supplies a long (10m from memory) comms cable in the kit to go between the shunt & BMV-712.
After seeing your comment we reached out to Victron and it turns out you are correct. We do have it wired incorrectly. The way we show in the video is how the company who designed our system told us to wire the shunt.
Thank you for pointing out the mistake in a kindly, respectful manner.
Wanderlost Overland No problem! Thanks for the reply. You have a great channel & I enjoy watching it! I’m genuinely amazed at some of the advice people are given from ‘professionals’ when it comes to 12v systems. If you’re interested, you can see my setup on Instagram @rickis.r51
@@ricki11cook Is the Shunt okay being exposed in the engine bay? Or would it be wise to weatherproof it somehow?
Shane Keilty it would be fine but if you can mount it inside a PVC enclosure then that would keep it dry.
Thanks Ricki! I'm doing my own install and finding this comment allowed me to get the shunt hooked up right (I think) from the get-go. YTM.
Great video Guys. Overland Power Solutions is awesome. They came out to our TREC (Tennessee Rover Enthusiasts Community) 10 year celebration in February 2020. David and Tommy both are great people. We're building our overland LR3 now and OPS is on the list. Thanks for making a video going into such detail.
Awesome, thanks for watching! If you have any questions at all, now or when you're installing, give us a shout. We'd be very happy to help. You can also contact us directly through FB and Insta.
Great job, question, why did u run positive and negative wires to the back, coukd the negative not be achieved by common ground thru the frame?
A simple Perko marine battery switch works great for cheap. It can be mounted in the cab for switch charging on the go.
Wow! By far, BY FAR the B E S T how-to/DIY video on a digital dual battery set-up. Thank you for the detailed explanations.
Thanks Irwin, and thanks for watching!
Also glad to see a couple working together!!
Question, Wouldn't it be better to put the breaker closer to the starter battery? From my understanding, one should always put fuses/circuit breakers as close as possible to the power source. Please correct me if i am wrong. Thanks in advance for any feedback.
Thanks guys - a great help for installing my new system using Redarc, Engel and Amptron Lithium 100ah in prep for my trek into central Australia- I have a Toyota Hilux with lift on aluminium canopy - John in SA
Glad it helped!
Wow this is making me question if I even need solar for my van. And having a set up where you can add a panel later sounds ideal. Running a fridge for twenty hours with only about one volt in drop is really impressive.
I dont mean to be offtopic but does anybody know a method to log back into an instagram account..?
I somehow forgot the login password. I would love any tips you can give me.
@Caspian Fox instablaster :)
@Pablo Maxim Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and Im in the hacking process atm.
Seems to take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Pablo Maxim it did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thank you so much, you saved my account!
@Caspian Fox No problem :D
Great video. I’ve used the Redarc and Victron units for about 6 months in my camper trailer with an AGM battery and a solar panel. Great stuff!
We're extremely happy with how it's performing. Thanks for watching!
nice install..a section of brake line works great for running wires through the firewall.
great video and awesome you and your wife can do this project together!
Wow 14.8 volt agm battery? I have an agm battery, it charges to 14 .4 and works great, its a secondary battery in the back of my 01 chevy express conversion van, i only use it at night to sleep, to run a fan and i need to pay attention to what you are doing because i would like to get a small fridge, so i can keep milk cold for my morning coffee, thanks for the video, you are both great, im into the van life, so the van is my home and i go to the gym for showers:)
Hi,this is Stevan and I like your settings. Would you tell me what size are blue and green wires please. Have a good day
YOU 2 obviously have the perfect relationship
Having plenty of money goes a very long way in making that possible. More marriages end from financial arguments than any other reason even Infidelity.
Janes Fair thanks for sharing your opinion.
Harry West your welcome, but it’s more than an opinion it’s a statistical fact of life as sad as that may be.
Nice, def a quality job. If you still have your Toyota and your Redarc supports lithium you might want to upgrade the batt. AGM only allows 50% drain where lithium with the same rating and size will let you drain 80% or more if done only occasionally. Lithium has a much longer usable life as well. I can recommend the Renogy batteries. I've been using 2 non smart non bluetooth ones for over 5 years with no issues. I paid over $1000 each, now they're running for only $429 each. Non smart does not mean they don't have self contained battery management systems n temp probes.
That's a really cool video. Looking to do a system like this for my Wrangler. I don't want to go with the standard dual battery that people do and this solution seems perfect.
We've had it installed for well over a year now and are very glad we made the investment. It's truly a no hassle, no problems, it always works when we need it system.
Love it! Very clear explanation...now I need to find someone that might be able to help me! I want to add this system to my 2017 Suburban.
Glad it was helpful!
Just a suggestion for the handle you could use a piece of bike handle for cushion on the handle with a hole for the cable to go through
Very nice dual battery set up. You guys really do quality videos.
Glad you like them!
Awesome video, i got a few points. 1) the 5th gen 4runner has a temperature compensated alternator, as such I do not think the blue ignition wire was necessary. Why did you choose to hook it up? 2) In their manual, REDARC does not like breaker and recommend MIDI type fuse, personally, I think a good breaker like the bluesea is not an issue. It will interesting to see how it performs. 3) Did you duse the brown wire? Albeit short run but expect to see 35amps at times. 4) You grounded both batteries together, if the charger is grounded to neg pole of accessory battery, isn't it sufficient? Why adding a ground to the body? 5) Why did you choose AWG 4 wire? Most amps you will see in the engine bay is 35 amps, even with both batteries separated this way, AWG 8 could be enought. However, bigger does not hurt.
Sorry for so many questions but hope it could help to clarify. Thanks again for putting time and effort doing this. Cheers
On the wire size from the starter battery to the second battery, it seems to me that the DC-DC charger provides starter battery isolation from load spikes on the second battery. Since there won't be as much inrush current into the DC-DC charger from the starter battery a smaller wire gauge like 8 AWG should be acceptable. Given that the DC-DC converter is rated for 25 amps, and the length is about 9 feet, wire guides recommend 8 AWG. 48 amps is the max current on an 8 AWG wire, which matches the breaker size. 8 seems acceptable and 6 AWG seems like a conservative choice.
Indeed, 8 AWG is recommended in the manual for the BCDC1225D with 3-16 foot cable length.
You guys are the best!! Looking forward to meet you lost somewhere in the nation.
There's always a good chance of finding us lost. :)
I've been anxiously awaiting this video. I just picked up the C4 battery mount a few days ago (C4 is awesome) after looking at all the other very expensive 4runner options out there. Glad to see a more DIY solution and love the rear power panel. Would love to hear about what influenced the various decisions on each of the components (25amp vs 40 amp redarc, AGM battery choice, etc). Thank you again for another great production.
Thanks for watching!"25amp vs 40 amp redarc"- We were up in the air on this too. That's partially why we got help from OPS. They said the 40amp wouldn't be necessary for our application. "AGM battery choice"- Mostly cost. We could either buy a $400 or $200 battery. Both would perform and last about the same. $200 won out. :)
I am the one who likethe bieo here on the youtube and I like how you daid what the battery does and how it can do the things to make life easy in a car a van or a suv
This was so helpful. I’m doing the same thing to my Tacoma. I just can’t decide which Redarc BCDC to go with
Thanks for watching!
You guys are fun to watch it’s like my parents
Thank you.....I think. 😀
cool video, but I'll mention that redarc doesn't suggest using circuit breakers in the charging line for their BCDC units as they generate a lot of heat. The heat can lead them to popping open when there isn't a fault in the system. Alternativly, they suggest using a MIDI fuse which is very low resistance.
Great vid- real new at this so If I can get a couple answers, things will start to make sense with what I do know:
1) why the circuit breaker over at the second battery 'cable-length' away and not at the primary battery?
2) do the two batteries need to be the same/alike in size/capacity/output?
3) why the need for the 'Anderson' plug? Relevant to your winch application?
4) what was the reason you pick this model DC-DC?
Again, this does what a relay does so that when no running, it senses the lack of charge and separates the two batteries?
First; thanks for watching Douglas. I'll try my
best to answer your questions.
1) This was a mistake by the engineer of our
system. It should be as close as possible to the primary battery, It's getting
moved very soon.
2) When using an isolator yes, they must be identical
batteries for optimum performance. When using a DC-DC charger like we have, the
two batteries can be different types and sizes.
3) The Anderson plug is simply the best at transferring
power without any power lose.
4) The Redarc is better at handling the heat
under the hood.
Yes, it completely cuts ties to the starter
battery when the engine is shut off.
@@WanderlostOverland ....cause I have two identical batteries, with the circuit breaker at the wrong one too, oem under driver seat and one in back now. Have a relay in-between but kept forgetting to switch it when needed; shoulda tied into ignition but never got there either. As its a daily driver really I like the DC-DC idea over passive panels. Thanks and safe travels.
You guys are very underrated. Seriously great content and perfectly informative.
THANK YOU!!!
that was a great vid. i was going to do a dual battery redarc setup in my 4runner anyway. now i have a guideline video. thanks.
You're very welcome! Thanks for watching!
Love this DIY video with your sense of humor. Wish I had your skills!
Hi, thanks for the video which I have watched about 20 times. I am very ready, thanks to you. In the list of items you have not provided one for the add-a-circuit device. I have been looking around and since I don't know what the actual fuse type is, it is difficult to order one. I know that I can remove the fuse to find out what type it is, and it is disappointing that the owner documentation doesn't say what they are. Would you mind adding a link to the one you used?
You can go to any auto parts store and they'll know exactly what you'll need.
Enjoyed watching, awesome video, and the puppies also played a great part in participating in the great install
Thanks George! Yes, the dogs do add an element to the video. They are always willing to make a cameo appearance.
What an amazingly detailed video
Glad you liked it!
You guys are the best. How come you got the 25 amp version instead of the 40amp REDARC? Doing this exact setup in the next few weeks once all the parts come in. Was having trouble thinking about where to mount the actual unit but your solution is great!
Due to our ignorance on how best to keep the second battery charged and healthy we trusted the guys at Overland Power Solutions to choose the components for us. We're not totally certain why they went with the 25amp. It could be because we'll be supplementing with solar.
Thanks for watching and if you get a chance, we'd love to see your setup. Please post some pics up on our Facebook page.
Dave from Overland Power Solutions here . . . the BCDC1225 is more than enough to charge a "battery bank" of this capacity. The 25amp output will also easily keep up with the load of this build and scale well for future additions.
Very nice and fun video. First I've seen from you. The setup looks good, especially the dc-dc converter being able to include solar. Will watch update videos on this. Thanks.
Very informative. Thank you for putting the time in to publish this info.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I would solder those connections you’ve crimped after verifying things work correctly.
It would appear that they subscribe to the same theory as I do,, that being that soldered joints are too rigid and can break and cause issues in an off road vehicle that is flexing and bouncing a lot.
@@wingarddestrehanhighschool6542 maybe, but I prefer a more solid connection in general, with a good amount of slack/service loop to allow for vibration. The only way a break could occur is from wires being stretched too tight, so lengthen things to allow for it and you shouldn’t have a problem if they’re well secured to prevent the stress in the first place.
very nice, since I am such a noob I would have to have more info on all those wires (confusing) but i do have a couple of questions, first: I usually connect the battery to a "battery tender" when not in use (weekdays) will the system charge the main then the back up? and the second question would be similar but with solar panels while camping etc?
With a dc-dc charger, when the engine is turned off the two batteries are completely separated. Hooking a battery tender to one of the batteries will do nothing for the other one. Same goes with the solar panel. If you're hooking the panel up to the second battery by going through the dc-dc charger, it will only charge the second battery.
A bit late but thanks for the reply, I finally decided to do a dual battery set up, I see you have the 40 amp breaker close to the second battery, I’ve been reading that it should be close to the energy source (main battery), seen other people bolting it to the main fuse box close to the main battery, all help is appreciated
Can you post a link where I can find a wife like that please?
Lmao
LOL I was thinking the same thing in the beginning when she's working on the battery posts and he's just standing there narrating :38 LMAO!!! My ex wife wouldn't have even bothered to hold the camera, no less do the whole job with me! LOLOLOL
Most street corners have them 👍
@@bigjimnycub9582 maybe if yer payin
@@gypsiewanderer24 lol
Great video. I keep watching this because I am about to setup a dual battery on my truck. I would like to match the size of each wire for my connections. What are the size/gage of each wire?
Awesome channel and a great video! I'm following your video at the moment and it's quite a bit to go through. How did you connect our fridge? I saw the clip where you mentioned to run it directly to the power panel. However, I don't understand how you plugged it to the fridge?Did you just cut the fridge 12v power wires and connected to positive and negative to power panel? I'd appreciate some guidance on that :)
This was an awesome video. I own a 4runner as well and was looking for ideas on doing this when I came across your video. So glad I did! Going to give it a shot. 🤞🏽
Thanks for watching Jay! Let us know how it goes.
You guys rock 17 min video explaining everything 👍👍👍. 2 days of video and 1 or 2 days for editing 😎 keep up the good work, it’s much appreciated. You guy really plan out the custom cut abs and control panels. 👌👌👌👌
Thanks for watching Jeff! In total we put in at least 3 hours per minute of all our video. Up to 5 on our overlanding trip videos. That includes story-boarding, scripting, lighting, props, filming, photos, building graphics, then editing. There's a lot that goes on behind the scenes.
I'm so not there yet in my power needs but I like your setup and could see a similar setup in my future. Although I won't be doing said setup myself, cuz I just don't have the patience for all that, I still watched the video as if I would do it myself.
Overland Power Solutions specialize in custom installations. They're based out of Knoxville TN.Thanks for watching!
Great team work guys. Please send me all the parts and size of cable you used? Thanks in Advance.
Love the video! Thank you for citing all of the products you used. Been looking for a setup just like this!
Thanks Chris, and thanks for watching!
@9:06 You need to grind the paint off with a wire brush where you ground attaches. I saw someone spray it all with clear coat after it's bolted together to keep it from rusting.
Just wrapping up my own install myself. Thanks a lot for your help!
You're very welcome.Thanks for watching!
I really enjoy your DYI videos, they are very informative, and funny. Question for you. Why do you not have a fuse or a circuit breaker on the starter battery cable to the secondary battery and from the secondary battery to the rear of the vehicle? It always seem like a good idea to fuse at the source.
Any tips on how you measured and made the power panel in the back to the exact size? Having a hard time getting an out line with paper. Thanks
We used cardboard and just kept making small trims on it until we got it just right.
Nice video, I keep referring to it. Especially like, wait, is the C4 tray this easy to install?
Yes, it is
Thanks for the video as your knowledge and humor was very much appreciated.
That is a very technical setup. You didn't mention cost, but I know all that wasn't cheap ethier!
I used a simple isolator and a smaller, simpler panel in the back. I only use a CFX 35 which draws a bit less juice. But it'll easily run 2 days off of a group 29 battery. Yes, it'll take the battery down to 10.8 volts which will more then likely shorten the batteries life. No biggy. I use a cheap $90 deep cycle from Wal-Mart. If I get a year out of it, which I easily will, I'll just replace it.
That said...... much respect for a really nice install and a great video!
BTW. I get 14.2 volts charge through my isolator. The vehicle is a brand new 2019 Tacoma TRD off road.
For the longest time I just ran my refrigerator off the starting battery with a low voltage alarm and disconnect. With solar I installed a second battery with fuses on both ends of the connecting cable. The parking heater neccecitated the added battery capacity.
You talked about upgrading you battery terminals. I would love to know what ones you used and how you like them and possibly a link to buy them.
Unfortunately we haven't got around to improving our terminals yet.
So can an oven and food warmer that are not allowed to be connected to an electrical outlet work?
good video as usual. Does the 4Runner have a smart alternator? I dont believe so, in that case the little blue wire is not needed to connect to ignition circuit?
The 4Runner does have the "smart" alternator.
Thanks for your reply. Glad to learn from guys like you. When you tap into the fuse box, can you close again the lid or does the fuse tap prevents you from doing so? Do you know if there are fuses to do this tap in the engine bay fuse box?
wow just came across your channel looking up lift kits for my 2010 4runner.. liked what you guys are about.. and subbed :) very informative, thank you..
Thank YOU for watching! We have a lot coming up in the near future too.
@@WanderlostOverland very clean and informative videos you guys have.. Will be watching for future content, cant wait to one day do a similar project to my 4runner 😁
Great Video as always guys!! Also I love the broadhead pointer. Nice touch.
Thank you! Just what I was looking for and fun to watch.
Glad it was helpful!
Really nice installation
Thanks Mike!
p.s. Just a reminder: Our t-shirt fundraiser for TreadLightly ends October 19th. Make a donation and get a cool Wanderlost t-shirt! Here's the link to our fundraising site. It explains all the details: markmerri.wixsite.com/wanderlost-overland
Did running your blue wire to that fuse work? I finished my install and hooked up to the same fuse and it’s not charging my second battery over 13.5 volts.
It works fine for us.
@@WanderlostOverland Yeah, disregard. I didn’t realize it was in float phase. Thanks!
Hi There!
I did a quick run through of the comments and also watched the video a few times. My question is this: What is the amp hours on that battery you have installed? I am currently budgeting my build to mimic what you have.
Thanks,
Ted
Hi, thx for watching. 55 amp hours.
Excellent Video. Your a good looking matched couple!
Thank you kindly!
Great video and thanks for taking the time to post it. Quick question. If having a distribution block with a breaker, do you run the redarc, to the breaker, then to the starter battery? Or redarc to distribution block to breaker to stater. Thanks in advance!
Redarc to breaker to distribution box.
Looks great !! But 2 issues that i have !! 1 is agm batteries hate heat and should never be mounted under the bonnet !! And 2nd is im certain that the dc to dc would also really not like the extreme heat that builds up under the bonnet !! Thats just what ive learnt and been told anyhow !! For agm to go under the hood it needs to be in a vented air box on it own !!
Did you ever make a follow up to your battery set up? Pros cons? Thanks. And good video!
I know this video is 4 years ago, but hopefully someone could answer this noob question. Do you necessarily have to run a ground cable from starter battery to secondary battery? According to the bcdc manual, all grounds connect to chassis only. TIA.
All can be grounded to the chassis.
hi all, I didnt see you install an isolator in the setup, did you do that as an add-on after you did the video? thanks!
No need for an isolator with a dc-dc charger.
Do you have a video where you changed out the battery terminals for all the hookups?
No, we never did one. Sorry.
Love the info! Which AGM battery would you recommend? Somewhat on a budget though
Do you think there is room for a Group 24 battery in there? Its 1 inch taller, otherwise the same. Group 24 has higher amp/hrs available. In your video it looks like there might be enough space above the charger, but it might be tough getting the charger/hold down plate over the hold-down bolt. What do you think?
We're right now testing out a new manufacturer's lithium battery for under the hood. It too is an inch taller. It fits, but just barely. And that back hold down nut is VERY hard to get on.
Ok, so I discovered that I have a group 24 battery right there under my hood to use to mock this up! Dah! It measures 8.75 inches to the top of the posts. I set in place on my C4 battery tray and it looks like it will fit fine. To alleviate the tight access to the rear hold-down nut, I'm thinking of putting a wing nut on it and cutting a slot in my 1/2" plastic board so I can slide my board (with DC/DC charger mounted to it) in place around the all-thread rod, rather than having to come down over it. Sound plausible?
Mark, how in perdition did you make a template to cut out your instrument panel for the passenger side rear cubby?
Trial and error. Took some time cutting cardboard. :)
Wanderlost Overland. Ended up doing the same: spent the time I had been spending looking for the easy way, doing it the hard way.
can the current alternator give charge to both the batteries for a long time or do u need to upgrade the alternator? I noticed that the voltage of the second battery is dropping, would that second battery last long?
Very nice video with simple instructions and good material 🤘👍
Thanks John!
so how long does that one battery keep the fridge going with no charging?
Where did you get your LED indicator? I tried using a normal 12v one but it would confuse the BCDC and make it think it was a CA battery instead of Li.
It was something we found on Amazon. Not sure who makes it.
I like your ABS cargo door!.......I made mine out of aluminum with a keyed and tabbed closing and you gave Me a thumbs up on T4.org! I needed to be able to open it for storage, but I like the ABS better as a material!
Thanks!
p.s. Just a reminder: Our t-shirt fundraiser for TreadLightly ends October 19th. Make a donation and get a cool Wanderlost t-shirt! Here's the link to our fundraising site. It explains all the details: markmerri.wixsite.com/wanderlost-overland
Awesome video and work. Just a few questions
1. Will you be retiring the bussman fuse/relay set up or will you route it to the 2nd battery?
2. Why use 40amp breaker on this set up instead of 80( i think thats what you have on the bussman)?
3. How do decide what is connected to the 2nd batter vs the main.
Thanks again for sharing the k bbn knowledge.
Thanks for watching!#1, Nope, the Bussman relay/fuse panel will still be hooked to our starter battery since everything that goes through it are things we mostly use when the engine is running.#2, 40a is plenty for what we're running off the second battery. The busman one is a 100a I believe. WAY more then we need there. We should downsize it in the near future.#3, Like I said in #1; depends on when the accessory is running with the engine running or not. We wanted to really limit what's going through the second battery, so the charge lasts as long as possible.
@@WanderlostOverland thank you
Hey. How has the Cable held up under the rig? I’m thinking of partially copying your setup. Anything you would do differently now?
Very good. We keep it run through the cheap plastic conduit to keep salt and dirt off them.
@@WanderlostOverland Thanks!
Amazing job! Looks awesome, almost stock!
Thanks! and thanks for watching!
Great video. I';ll go the full Monty - AC to DC, DC to AC, DC to DC, PV to DC, PV to AC. Heck I even want those lunar panels to charge my batteries at night. Anything to keep my mall crawler amped up!
What size is the circuit breaker, and can you add a link to it?
what gauge wires are running from Redarc out to the fuse, etc.. also, you have a 100 amp from main to the fuse, but only 40 amp to the hook up to the 2nd battery?
We ran 4g + & - cables to the rear. I'm assuming you're referring to the 100amp breaker on the fuse/relay panel near the starter battery. That panel is completely separate from our second battery panel. 100 amps is overkill for it. We should drop it down to 40amp also.
you two are Great! this was very cool. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
AWESOME system! This would be PERFECT for my 1991 Chevy Suburban bug-out vehicle build... :-)
Great video... Thanks!
Hi, I really enjoy your videos and I was wondering if you could let me know how to install a second battery that is able to power a heater that is plugged into my car.
I own a 2016 suburban. Would these parts work for my car? And if so, where can I buy them. Thank you.
Just curious, why no breaker or fuse between the Redarc and the auxiliary battery?
wondering the same thing, as it shows one in the Redarc wiring diagram.
Nice set up. I am looking for something like it to add to our rig. Thanks for sharing.
Did you cut the plug off of your refrigerator cord and hardwire it to the fuse box instead of using a 12v socket plug?
Yup, cut the plug right off and wired direct to fuse panel.