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Motorcycle Fuel Tank Sealers: Don't Buy Until You Watch This Video!
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- Опубліковано 13 чер 2020
- Here we open up the fuel tank of our 2008 Kawasaki KLR650 two months after coating it with fuel tank sealer paint. So, does the stuff work? Watch the video and find out!
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Filmed with a Canon 70D camera in the great Pacific Northwest.
Music: Still Want It, by Dan Lebowitz.
This video is a great example of what happens when a good product is improperly applied. Notice how they conveniently did not show that part.
Well, we didn't think we'd be making a video about the issue. We don't normally sacrifice a $1,000 fuel tank to make a video. It was applied exactly as per the instructions, whether that's correct or not. What I didn't mention is that the guy at the auto parts store that sold me the paint warned me that it wouldn't work. We just didn't think it'd fail that quickly and so extensively. Thanks for your comment.
Ive restored several bike tanks. I’ve had solid, lasting results from Kreem and Red Kote. It really is all in the prep and patience. If the inside isn’t completely rust free and surgically clean, it will fail. Fresh Acetone, Fresh Evaporust rolled with steel bb’s and allowed to sit for up to a couple days and then a final acetone rinse followed by immediate coating always does the trick. From there only Ethanol free gas going forward.
Thanks for the feedback!
@@rymburt oh thats funny to me. I tried the Kreem kit a couple of tines but it never really worked for me, i couldnt get it to adhere to the tank.
Now i allways use the 3part kit from tankcure, it works really well for me.
I did my suzuki tank over 10 yrs ago using por 15, and it is still perfect. Preparation is everything, it's no good sealing over rust.
Nice to hear that this stuff can work. Thanks for your comment.
Proper prep is key. POR15 has been my savior for years
I agree that proper preparation is critical, but it has to be practical in real life situations. We did the preparation by the book.
Prep is key. Nothing can bond long term to heavy rusted metal
Thank you for the heads up. I was just about to place an order but i will do some more research first ❤
You're welcome. Good luck with your project!
Firstly, kudos to you for responding maturely to some provocative comments. I have used POR 15 successfully. Here are my observations. I prepared the tank by using a given number of wood screws (counting them before AND after use) and shaking the tank so the screws remove loose rust. Then filling the tank with vinegar, sealing it, and shaking it. I poured the used vinegar through a white bath towel into a 5 gallon bucket. Then repeated the process. Did this three or four times. As you probably know, vinegar is a weak acid. (I've use muriatic acid on select parts and hardware, but only with a 3M protective mask - fumes are nasty). After vinegar no longer turns white towel red, I used a fresh rinse of clean vinegar. Rinsed with water. Then I apply the Cleaner-Degreaser from POR15 kit. The instructions say it makes surface acidic. Rinse with water. Then add the Metal Ready from POR15 kit. This does an alkaline prep. of metal surface. Rinsed with warm water and then completely dry the tank. I used a hair dry duct taped to inlet and left it overnight to dry. Then applied POR15 sealer, thoroughly rolling tank and letting excess drain out. Then used hair dryer again to dry the sealer. My questions from your description (1) whether you used the Cleaner-Degreaser and Metal Ready? (2) Was any moisture left in tank when you applied sealer? What did you do to dry interior? (3) And use of multiple sealer treatments I think may be problematic. My understanding is sealer is meant to bond to metal, not done in multiple coats. Thanks again for your post.
I can't recall which products we used, but it was as per the instructions on the can. We don't know if there was any moisture left in the tank, but we used a hair drier set on high for about 15 minutes to dry the inside. We had to use multiple treatments, because one can was not enough to cover the large (and complex-shaped) tank. I agree that multiple coats is not the best, but the instructions didn't prohibit it. There's no doubt it bonded better in some areas than in others, but it should have bonded much better in most areas. Thanks for your comment.
@@3ftDeepChannel I think 15 minutes drying was too little. 15 years ago I did several bike tanks with POR15 and still like new. A hair dryer set in a homemade jig blowing hot air for a long time to make absolutely sure total drying is done is essential. That tank you tried is complicated! Could dampness and moisture accumulate in a chamber?
Yes, we are pretty sure that the treatment was not effectively getting into the corners, as it is a complicated shape. Best to stick with rounded shaped tanks. Good to hear that you’ve had success with this product though. Thanks for your comment.
I have a 1979 Suzuki GS1000 i restored 8 years ago .The tank had pinholes and leaked i used a 3 part kit and have not had any issues with it leaking in 8 years . Proper prep is all it takes .
Thanks for your comment. Do you remember what kit you used?
@@3ftDeepChannel I used the Kreem 3 part kit for large tanks . It worked really well and going on 8 years .
Thanks for the info. We may just try it one day.
Great video thank you for making it
Hey, thanks very much!
The rust wasn't removed first, or the tank flash rusted after removing the rust. After always neutralize it with hot water saturated with baking soda to prevent a flash rust.
Thanks for the tip, John.
I have seen the same failures with tank seals when preparation steps been skipped or done improperly - proper cleaning of the tank with leach and isopropanol to remove gas residues, flush, then acid for rust removal as abrading the surface, flushing and neutralizing, flushing with Iso and drying - then the first coat is applied and after the final the tank is cured for at leased a couple days in a home setting.
Thanks for the tips, Sideshow.
Very useful video. I was considering using a sealing product to save a few quid. Knowing now how much preparation is involved I’ll just buy a new tank (luckily for my application they are £90)
Good idea, me thinks. Good luck.
I used a german product called Tankdoc, it consists of 3 parts: 1. automotive degreaser detergent, 2. oxalic acid to derust, 3. epoxy paint (2 part paint), I applyed two coats. Worked well for me. I first tried derusting with electolysis, but afted 3 days it didn’t clean everything, so I used the product. Muriatic and sulfuric acids are too strong, I didn’t want to use those, because it’s hard to deactivate them, the metal rusts very fast after the treatment.
Thanks for the advice, Vlado. You’re absolutely right, the muriatic acid is way, way too strong for this application. It removes the rust very quickly, but it etches the metal too much and the rust starts forming again very, very quickly.
Por-15. Por means paint over rust. If your tank isn’t heavily rusted that’s not the product to use and you just found out why. Operator error far as I see. I do 50 tanks a year zero problems. Weld that back together grind it down. And use caswells
Thanks for your comment, Travis.
My understanding is that while por does mean paint over rust, that is not necessarily the case for their tank sealant. I just applied it to mine and there wasn't anything about rust needing to be there for proper adhesion in the instructions. I would think they should make that perfectly clear " Tank must be rusty for proper adhesion". I spoke with a factory tech about this when applying the regular POR-15 to some rusty and non-rust undercarriage areas and he told me it could be applied over clean metal as long as it was properly prepared with the etch. It can be painted over rust, but does not have to be. That's my understanding anyway.
Thanks for the update, Dennis.
I been using tank sealers for years. I've never had this problem. But I can see how this could happen especially if you live in an area like the "rust belt." However, I will say that tank sealers should only be applied after fuel tank is completely restored and free of rust inside and out.
Thanks for your comment. What fuel sealers have you used in the past?
@@3ftDeepChannel Ive used several including KBS and POR-15.....But I recommend Red Kote above all else.
Thanks. POR-15 is what we used and although we followed the directions exactly as written and ...well, you can see the results. Just curious, how long did you keep your POR-15 treated tank for? Did you ever check the inside thoroughly? We didn't see any cracking in the paint until we tore into the tank.
@@3ftDeepChannel I still have two tanks that are treated with POR-15 that I had for 2 years now. Still haven't had a problem. One thing that I always recommend is immediately after derusting the inside of the tank to wash it out using a 50/50 mix of acetone and marvel mystery oil this helps both evaporate any water left from rinsing, while also preventing flash rust while drying. If you decide to seal another tank I would recommend using Red-Kote.
Thanks very much for the information. When I was getting the second dose from our local Lordco Automotive, the guy said it was not going to work (he was right). He did suggest using an epoxy that is very difficult to get hold of in Canada, but may be more accessible elsewhere. Not sure what that epoxy is, but he swore by it. Thanks again.
great video bro
Appreciate it!
I've used Red kote and Kreem, Both work really well. Even dented the tank after, and it didn't chip or peel. We even have the *GASP* E15 fuel here...
How long have you had a coded for?
@@3ftDeepChannel The kreem tank is over 10 years, the red kote is probably 5.
That sounds great. Thanks for the tips.
I wonder how much sealer you used, a klr650 tank is 6.1 gallons and the sealers ive founs such as kreem is for 1 to 5 gallons, not saying its where tou went wrong but im giving the kreem brand a shot with a 4.1 gallon tank and im having confidence that itll do great
We used 3 small cans. Please let us know in 3 months or so how it went.
How did you prepare the tank?
I used Kreem some time ago but it didnt work for me, TankCure did wonders for me.
If there's even a speck of rust, the liner will not adhere there and thus create bubbles. And bubbles pop, and create bladders.
My advice is a thorough de-grease, plush with water, add 200ml isopropynol , shake well, empty, blow out with compressed air. Add rust remover, flush it out the same way as the degreaser.
What i found out is that if you blow it out with hot air it rusts immediatly, so just use compressed air or a cold blower. If you use compressed air, make sure its water and oil free.
If you use a epoxy, keep in mind that its very viscous and needs time to flow.
These are my tips. To me, epoxy>liner any time
Thanks for the tips. We followed the instructions to the letter, but clearly it wasn’t prepared good enough. I suspect we’re not the only ones that failed.
Thanks for sharing. I was just about to go pour the POR 15 sealer into my tank before I watched this, but now I'm seriously concerned. I also did all the prep as per the instructions but the one thing I wasn't sure about is that you said you did three coats? I assumed this is a one coat system. Is it possible that the additional coats is what caused the problem.
That’s a good question. i don’t think so. We did 3 coats because the tank is relatively big, and there was not much paint in the small tin. The guy at the autoshop where I bought the product did warn me that it wouldn’t work (after I had already done 2 coats!). He said the only product that works is a red, transparent epoxy that is very difficult to get. Thanks for your comment.
@3ftDeep All I know is I'm not about to risk using it now. I'm going to call tomorrow to price out a professional liner. Thanks again for saving me from a potential headache.
Very good move. I’d do the same. You will likely need to redo the paint though, as most professional treatments result in the paint being stripped. Good luck!
Was this a 3 part kit or just a paint you dumped into the tank?
It’s a paint (that requires prep to the tank). I was told that the kits (or epoxies) work much better and the professional stuff does the job right.
Yeah..... I'd say they didn't follow the directions to acid etch the tank before applying the coating.
No, the instructions were followed perfectly. In an ideal world, the product may work. But in a real world situation, we found that it didn’t. As mentioned to others earlier in this thread, even the guy at the auto store where we bought it from (after we applied it) said “it doesn’t work”. If we had to do it all over again we would either take it to a professional to have it done (they have different, more dangerous chemicals they work with), or buy a new tank. I’d probably buy a new tank.
I have never seen an acid etch that doesn't create flash rust immediately. It leaves a bronze type color. Some people say that is normal, but that is flash rust.
we agree. We don’t see how this process could work with the paint provided.
I bought a can of gold standard I opened it up it is just silver paint. I put the top back on it. Use red kote resin next time. 😊
That's what the experts say!
I can tell you from experience that you think you may have followed the instructions to a T but you didn’t - I had the same issue. Mine was inadequate drying of the tank before steps, it caused a nearly identical failure.
You could be right. The problem is flash rusting. If you leave the tank too long to dry, it'll flash rust and then you've got the same issue. Where we are it's relatively cool so we had to use a hair dryer (for about an hour). In some climates you may be able to leave it in the sun for an hour or so and that'll be enough. Thanks for your comment.
@@3ftDeepChannel I found that a hair dryer either didn’t get hot enough or didn’t move enough air, I’m not sure which, but wound up using a heat gun on low temp/high flow. The tank was HOT to the touch when done. I didn’t notice flash rusting, and I’m in the PacNW where it’s pretty humid and cool. I would up using PoR-15 pretty successfully.
@@Fsone174looking to use the por15 stuff how long has it been since completing your tank?
Put a hair dryer inside
Around 3 years ago. You should know that the auto shop that sold me the stuff warned me that it wouldn’t work.
What brand was the sealer?
POR 15
Dosnt even look like they cleaned the rust out the tank for the coating to bond to the metal
It was cleaned according to the instructions, but yes Some of the rust in the hard to reach Corners what is still present. Good catch.
I prepared my tank by filling with vinegar to the top(full) added drywall screws(shake it around during) Let sit for a week until the tank was clean. Drained then added a bit of acetone. Rinsed with “super laundry soap” not baking soda. Rinsed with water then acetone again. Let it dry out. Then paint. Let cure for four days.
What did you paint with, Frank?
Yes, they don’t tell you that part in most other videos. There is a liner in these gas tanks and as soon as that liner degenerates, your tank will always flash rust. The only thing you can do is epoxy it professionally or use some other product for retail customers, which we have yet to find (that works).
Should’ve watched it this morning 😅…..literally ordered Por-15 3 hours ago 😅😅😅
Good luck to you. Keep a close eye on the inside of your tank! Watch for any sign of blistering.
What brand was that?
POR 15 Fuel Tank Sealer
Paint? You need to use a good tank prep and sealer. But if these aren't done properly then it won't be good for the bike also. Whenever I do one it never sees gas in the tank till after 7 days minimum
Thanks for the tip, Dudley.
I welded & POR coated my tank about 3 years ago bc of a tiny leak and haven't re attached it to the bike yet. Im thinking of giving it a 2nd coat now before I put it back together. Yea or nay?
If I were you and I really liked the tank, I’d bring it to a painter and have them strip it off and epoxy it for a permanent fix.
@@3ftDeepChannel But every paint shop doesn't necessarily have experience doing that, correct? What can that co$t me? Thks
Maybe not. We use a guy here who has a small shop and he does quite a few of these. The cost (a few years ago) was $250 for the coating, but then the tank needs to be repainted. It’s costly, but the result is professional quality that you don’t need to worry about.
Imo something was done seriously wrong in the preparation, I’ve used POR 15 after hydrochloric acid cleaning and it works great. But it is a long process to clean and you need loads of bicarbonate of soda to neutralise the acid. I’d have loved to have sen a photo of how good it looked before the sealer was used, needed a camera in the tank, I suspect rust was still in there. But the video shows being really through with the prep is well worth it.
We were very thorough with the preparation. It looked like new metal throughout. There’s no doubt that in the corners and folds, there was probably some rust still but that doesn’t explain the wide-scale failure. When I bought my second lot of paint from the auto shop, the salesman shook his head and said it won’t work. The only thing that works is the “red” epoxy coating, and that isn’t widely available here. When I saw how my coating failed, I could hear his words echo in my head loud and clear.
@@3ftDeepChannel Very strange then,, perhaps there was just something in the metal from new that reacted. Or even possible you could have got a faulty batch who knows. I read reviews of POR 15 most are positive but a few aren’t, I think it’s a matter of going what you think is best. I did a Puch maxi tank in February checked it and it’s still great, I think another thing with the POR 15 is leave it as long as possible to dry, that’s what I did. Thanks for responding to my comment 🙂👍
Thanks for the tips!
@@3ftDeepChannel I've seen in a car gas tank video he used a chain with cleaning acid and swished it around.
Another video a guy cleaning his rusted metal Jerry can he used copper BB pellets with cleaner.
Rust needs to be neutralized as a bodyman told me. They used this stuff called Rust Mort by SEM. After neutralizing then they can start patch up and painting. If SEM not available gotta order online from North America.
We followed the instructions to the letter with this product and it didn’t state neutralization. Rinsing thoroughly with water also does the trick, just not as fast. As for adding the metal stuff into the tank, it takes a lot of agitation for that to be effective …many hours in fact. So, it’s too much hassle for most people (like me). Thanks for your comment.
If you are not knowledgeable on which pain to use the it's messy like this. I have been using 2k base coat primer to coat my tank and it's been working great!
That’s great to hear, Abhimanyu. Which paint are you using?
@@3ftDeepChannel it's the normal polyurethane 2k base coat which comes as three parts... The paint, the activator/hardener and the thinner.
I believe the two or three part systems are far superior to the paint that we used. Thanks for the info.
@@3ftDeepChannel most welcome 👍🏻
Bit unfair to have one bad experience, with one product, then advise people not to buy any tank sealer. At the end, you advise getting it professionally coated so you must concede that it can work. I've had good experiences with both Tapox & Flowliner.
After I did the job (but before I discovered it was coming undone), one of the guys who works at the hardware store where I got the paint from said it probably wouldn’t work. He was very negative about the product. When I asked which one I should use, he said that none of the products available to consumers were any good. The only good ones were epoxies that the professionals use, and the tank would need to be repainted after. We’re very interested in the products you mentioned, but after all the time and money we spent to do it right, we’re not confident in any do-it-yourself kits.
@@3ftDeepChannelTapox is a German product sold by a company called Fertan, who also supply various products for cleaning & de-rusting the tank first, as well as a "sealeater" that removed old linings. It's not an easy job, for example; you have to keep a flow of air through the tank while it cures. I'm about to do a customers tank & if it doesn't work it will be my fault, not the product. I'm not sure if you can get it in the U.S. but worth looking for.
Thanks for the information. It sounds like you’re a professional, which is what we’re recommending for this job.
How much would a professional charge? In a rusted tank with peeling por15? The place I'm dealing with wants 400$ yikes
@@joshuapellerin2578 I don't know what the hourly rate is where you are but it's probably a days work, spread out over several days & you need products to remove the old sealant, products to remove rust, others to convert any that might be left before you even open the tin of sealer.
Who do you recommend for a pro coating job
I don't know of any products available near us. Chris uses a friend who is a professional painter. He's done several of his using a red epoxy and they turned out well. Unfortunately, the coating process strips the paint off so the tank needs to be repainted. It ends up being an expensive job.
@@3ftDeepChannel there’s a dude in Hollywood ca that’s does it . Gtl advantage or something like that . He’s Pricy but I’m tempted
Also look into getting a used tank in good condition. You can also save a lot of money that way. That's what I ended up doing with my KLR650.
@@3ftDeepChannel I already bought a minty like new tank so my bikes back on the road that’s was my cheapest option 300$ and I’m riding lol . I still got my other tank that needs work I want it done right I don’t wanna re do it again and again
@@3ftDeepChannel the dude in hollywood wants 500$ plus the shipping costs . That’s pretty steep . Might list the tank on eBay and let someone else fix it lol a new tank was cheaper
How didn't it explode from the grinding?
No fuel vapours, whatsoever.
@@3ftDeepChannel I've never seen a fuel tank without it. I've heard they fill up that with water when working on fuel tank, I don't know how safe it is.
Have you ever tried turco?
No. Do you have any experience with that product?
I can’t even find a place that will do this for me professionally so I find it difficult to take heed.
If not, our advice is to look for a used tank in good condition. Good luck.
Great just what i wanted to listen to... a disc grinder in my headphones
What? You’ve never listened to the grind of heavy metal before? ;)
If that's a 'few months' of rust build up, you need to buy your gasoline somewhere else.
Actually, most of that is from flash rusting. The acid treatment before the paint strips away any protection that was left in the fuel tank. That’s why I would never recommend this paint treatment. Better to get it professionally epoxied.
professionally coated ? ( stick around and I will answer that)... and WTF is that supposed to be ? Acid and abrasives to etch... nothing there that cannot be done at home just as well. Neutralize that acid... again... we can do that. So, the only thing I can think of is using an Industrial Grade Coating . I have used 3M EC-776 for decades with no failure. But of course it is designed for Aircraft use, and IF failed it would kill somebody, so naturally 3M put some serious chemical engineering and materials science into the product development.( Chances are the over the counter guys to no liability for anything, anywhere, ever! ) 3M EC-776 has very high VOC ( solvent) content 74%, and a flash point of only 55 degrees F ( if that sounds like MEK it pretty much is). So, IF you can get it... you can fill, slosh, and drain just like the pros do. Where you are going to find these pros... outside the aircraft repair industry I do NOT know... but it aint at your motorcycle or auto repair shop... unless they are mean old buzzards like me who actually know what shakes.
I'm not sure about where you live, but where we are we know of several people who re-coat motorcycle tanks professionally. They do a fantastic job, but it's expensive and the tank must be re-painted when they're done. So all in it's about CDN$600, which starts to approach the cost of getting a new tank. That's the dilemma.
Use phosphoric acid instead of muriatic it won’t flask rust like that and it will stick
Have you tried that yourself? I’ve heard of lots of so-called treatments, but none of them seem to work. The only thing that works is the epoxy coating that is quite expensive. The reason none of the others work is that the protective lining of the tank is gone when rust forms, and it will never come back, so you always have a rust problem. I would like to see some pictures of the tank after five or 10 years has gone by using these treatments. Thanks for your comment.
What specific product did you use?
Por15
Try ignored the part about putting in abrasive media and shaking, rinse, dry then use Caswell rather than what ever you used.
Thanks for the tip, Mark.
What kind of companies do the professional coating job in fuel tanks? It is originally zinc plated or something like this? I'm from Brazil and will try to find something in here.
Normally a good motorcycle painter will do a proper coating, as the professional coating process will strip off all of the paint from your tank.
@@3ftDeepChannel I mean the internal coating, where the fuel makes contact.
Yes, I understand. When they coat the tank properly it removes ALL of the paint from your tank so it needs to be repainted. When I sourced the costs, it was CDN$250 for the treatment and $250 for painting. That’s $500 total. That’s why these do-it-yourself products are so popular.
@@3ftDeepChannel oh I see.... Can you confirm me what kind of coating they use internally? It is probably a bath right? Because it removes the paint... I can't find some place here in Brazil to do it... Things are kind of difficult in here for vintage cars and bikes.
I’m not sure what product to use. All I know is that when they return the tank it has a red epoxy coating inside and the paint on the outside has been stripped. Good luck.
My por15 had failed as well
Considering how much prep time we put into it, and how careful we were, I’m surprised we haven’t heard from more people saying that it failed for them, too. Thanks for your comment.
@@3ftDeepChannel I regretted putting that stuff in. The previous owner used kreem which easily dissolves using acetone. Should've just kept it unlined as rust is very easy to remove (was very clean before I put the POR)
yea, that's def bad prep. It happens.
I think your only supposed to apply one coat wow that was thick.
You're right, but it took several applications to get the paint into every corner.
Think this would depend on the type of sealer. I've used one that basically leaves an epoxy type layer inside. There's no way that peels like the one you used. So, slightly misleading title in my opinion.
thanks for your comment. Do you recall the brand of epoxy sealer you used? Was it red color?
Came out clear looking, but when added to the hardener went a pale orange. Called Petseal Ultra. Not the easiest to use, need to keep at it but has sealed my 37 yr old Cagiva tank.
@martinpoll1040 Thanks for the info.
Np. I'm no expert by far, so only going on my personal experience. It's been in a few months now and I just can't see it leaking, especially as the inside is coated with, as I've said, an epoxy looking stuff.
POR-15 is crap. The prep is ridiculous and the end result is 50/50. Red Kote Tank Sealant is the only product I use now. I have a small engine repair shop and I’ve used Red Kote on probably 13 or 14 tanks and never had a problem. The hard part is the prep. I tumble the tank for several hours with lots of small nuts and bolts and chem-dip in it. Then I rinse it really well. Then I dry it over night so that it’s absolutely bone dry. You have to look the tank over and make sure the Red Kote can drain out properly. A lot of tanks don’t have a decent place to drain every bit of Red Kote back out. In those cases I drill a drain hole just for this purpose. Once the tank is done I plug the hole with a nut and bolt. Of course these tanks are on stuff like generators, tillers, water pumps, etc, so drilling and plugging them isn’t a big deal. Not sure I’d do that to a $1,000 motorcycle tank.
Thanks for the words of advice! I’ve heard good things about a red epoxy that works very well and wonder if that's the same stuff.
I’m wondering how long people are leaving the POR 15 to dry, I forget how long it’s says but I do remember after the recommended time I wasn’t satisfied it was totally dry, so I left it much much longer. Also some tanks are much harder to get it all around, I suppose some of it does depend on what the tank is.
Had it in the amazon cart. You convinced me to delete it and order some red kote. Thanks.
I think that’s a great move. Good luck with your project!
What brand was it?
Por 15
Paint? What?
Yes, it is a “special” paint.
All the people posting in the comments about how it's this guy's fault for not following the directions when installing tank liner are most likely keyboard warriors with no actual experience.
I have never lined a tank, and I don't intend to. I have also never seen a tank liner that actually holds up for the long haul.
I have an '03 Sportster and the factory tank that it used to have when stock had an OEM tank liner installed by HD themselves. (My understanding is that they only used liners for a handful of years before abandoning the idea). It would shed little flakes of liner and REGULARLY clog up at least one of the two jets in the carb. They looked like little paint chips and would wedge themselves in the jets and obstruct the flow of fuel. After disassembling and cleaning the carb probably 10 times or more, I tried various solvents to REMOVE the tank liner, none of which worked. What I finally did was fill the tank full of drywall screws and wrap it in blankets to tumble it in the dryer WITH NO HEAT.
Tank liners are an unnecessary gimmick IMO and as long as you keep some gas in the tank, the vapors will fill the headspace above the liquid gas and prevent any rusting.
Thanks for the feedback, Chase. There are lots of tanks out there that have been sitting for years (like the one I bought was) without any gas in the tank and for that reason they are now rusty. The point of our video (which escaped a lot of our viewers) is that regardless of whether we got it right or wrong, this product can fail for people who have lots of mechanical experience (like us). It is possible to do a better prep job we’re sure, but our prep was probably better than 90% of our viewers would do. That’s why the guy at the auto shop where I bought the stuff from said “it’ll never work” after we had already applied it (as per the instructions). Thanks again for your comment, and safe riding!
@@3ftDeepChannel The drywall screws trick will remove rust from tanks as well, provided it's not severely rusted. Cheers!
You just typed all this and never even did it a day in your life.
@@Nikosakii You are exactly the type of poser and keyboard warrior I was talking about. A quick look at your resume aka channel tells all. You have videos about "making money online" , a foozball video game, and some horrible auto tune garbage wanna be SoundCloud rap. Keep hiding behind that autotune cause you definitely can't sing without it. Your online coaching and rap career were destined to be a failure. Keep making quality vids from your mom's basement lol.
You proclaim to have never coated a tank but are going to school everyone on the problem with coating tanks? You are not qualified to give an opinion. Are you also a virgin and give sex education instruction? Then again you use dry wall screws as a coating removal tool 😂. Maybe you should try hanging drywall instead. Go back to your corner and put on the dunce hat… (100+ sealed tanks and “zero” failures, rechecks, or complaints)…
It's really hard to see you just cut up a perfectly savable klr tank like that
…all for the glory of making another educational UA-cam video!
I used a sealer, followed the instructions to the book. It didn't work , started pealing off the surface in time.
Sorry to hear about your experience, but it is comforting to hear that we’re not the only ones who were sorely disappointed with this type of product. Live and learn …
It appears this tank was just far too tight for this application to properly work
What do you mean by “far too tight”?
That's what happens when you don't get all the acid deactivated. That's also why the top had good adhesion. It's better to use Evapo Rust or something similar that won't etch the metal before you seal it..
I tell you, nothing eats rust faster than muriatic acid, but I would never ever use it again! Thanks for the tip.
@@3ftDeepChannel Yea, but it's like using a nuke to light a cigarette. Way too strong, and hard to stop the reaction after it gets in all the pours. Evapo Rust will not harm the metal and create an oxide layer that protects it as well, but it will take 12-24 hours. I promise, I don't work for them!
@@rustusandroid Thanks again for the advice.
BULL**IT!
I have used the KREEM brand on several tanks and have had very good results. (One tank still looks good after over 20 years!) Ok, I'll admit that it's not the cheapest kit on the market, but considering the hours of YOUR time that you will spend installing it, it's well worth the money. The thing to remember is that (like any paint job) the job is 90% finished before the paint goes on. You're not wasting your time by de-rusting and etching several times before coating. PREP IS EVERYTHING!
I'm going to guess that these guys did a haphazard job of installing an inferior product. (They never stated the brand of coating used.) With a poor job of installing an inferior product, lousy results should be expected.
Por15 tank sealer. Done exactly as per the instructions. 3 coats applied. Even the guy at the auto shop where we bought the stuff said "it won't work". Unfortunately, he wasn't the same guy who sold it to us, and he told us after it was already applied. He told us this not as his opinion, but as a statement of fact after years of getting customer feedback. Our results concur.
@@3ftDeepChannel Try KREEM, I swear by the stuff! And remember it's not possible to get the tank too clean before applying the coating. Also, be completely anal retentive about following the instructions. Even the tank that was done decades ago is holding up just fine. The worst thing I can say is that the lining that started out white has yellowed somewhat.
Thanks for the tips, Steve.
Very brittle coating.
My guy takes it a step further and sandblast the inside of the tank works every time
The issue I was told is that the bare metal on the inside of the tank is normally coated at the factory to prevent rusting. The bare metal will rust extremely quickly. I guess your guy treats the metal somehow to prevent rusting before he adds the sealer. Or, it could be a very special 1-coat epoxy resin, I guess.
clearly didn't do it right as there was the old liner still in there. should have stripped it first. I'm sure the instructions would have said this. needs stripping, degreasing and a metal prep before putting new liner in. just saying.
Instructions followed to the letter. We are not saying that someone else couldn’t do it better, but that if the average person follows the instruction precisely they will likely end up with the results that we got, in our opinion.
You should have filled that tank half way with water before grinding it 🤦
Not to worry; there wasn't any gasoline (or vapours) left in the tank after the prep.
we are lost in this eternal battle against rust in motorcycles gas tanks......we should built plastic motorcycle gas tanks instead
…or aluminum.
Quite clearly didn't read the instructions. POR15 works fine, if used correctly. Really shouldn't post these sort of negative comments, not fair on the vendor if you are incapable of following simple instructions.
We followed the instructions to the letter, including the prep. We’re not the only people who found this product to be a waste of money, though. The guy at the auto shop who sold us the product said it wouldn’t work AFTER we applied it. He said there’s a red epoxy that’s very difficult to find in Canada and that is the only product that works in his experience. That’s why we were keeping an eye inside the tank. I’ll bet it’s failed in a lot of other tanks too, the owners just don’t know it yet.
That tank can still be saved. Super glue and duct tape. Get er done...!!! 🤪🤪🤪
We’re on it …!
Bad prep bad results.
Well, that's easy to say. The consensus seems to be that if you've got a complicated tank geometry, forget these tank sealers.
@@3ftDeepChannel I've never had a problem my guy sandblasting inside of the tank first
The KLR650 tank has some deep corners which makes that difficult to do a good job with.
very broad statement to not use tank sealer and not even give a brand name.
based on the rust under the paint, the preparation was not done right. also the separate coats (whilst you say was not explicitly stated not to do) wouldnt work. like any paint, there are re coat time frames and if you don't apply within that time frame you need to scuff the surface to get proper adhesion for next coat. the reason it probably never stated anything about multiple coats is likely that you shouldn't do multiple coats, bit rather one thick one. runs aren't an issue in this case as you would never see it.
I know of many people who've done it correctly and not had an issue. I'd chalk this one up to poor preparation and bad application.
I wonder how many of those people don’t realize that the sealer is peeling in the tank, but they just can’t see it. Thanks for your comment.
Was it POR15?
I have use it on old VWs and it stopped rust, period.
MY GUESS is that when they put the sealer in - they DIDN"T CLEAN THE RUST OUT OF THE TANK...
The acid did that quite effectively.
1. you need to avoid that gas station......
That’s it!
bad prep
That explains some issues in the corners, but not the poor adhesion throughout.
Looks like throwing a bunch of magnets in there seems to be the only solution
Magnets? Why magnets? If you have a steel tank they will stick to the tank. If it’s not steel, no debris will stick to the magnets.
@@3ftDeepChannel Not exactly a solution but it might just prevent worst case scenarios to some extent..as nothing damages engines and fuel lines jets working on steel tanks like rust debris does...besides it costs next to nothing to deploy some broken mags in there.
Thanks for the tip, Ravee.
A hot mess 😩
Poor prep leads to poor results.
Well, according to the shop that sold us the stuff, it doesn’t tend to work for anyone. If it’s the case that most people can’t prep it properly (including us), then most people shouldn’t bother to buy such products.
Amateur application, never good
Yes, but it’s not a professional product. It’s sold retail to people just like us.
You have to be intelligent enough to remove the rust thoroughly before placing the sealer.
What would you have done differently (i.e. other than follow the instructions on the product label)?
@@3ftDeepChannel Properly removed the rust maybe? Metal rescue, thorough wash, very thorough dry to prevent flash rusting, then applying the liner. You have to be quick about it.
I’d say there’s no doubt that the rust wasn’t removed properly from the corners, but it was impossible to know that at the time (unless we used an endoscope to confirm, of course). I’m sure better prep would have helped, but the point is we followed the instructions exactly and that’s what happened. If the paint started coming up in one or two small areas it wouldn’t be such a big deal for us, but it came up all over …even in areas that we know were prepped perfectly. Even the guy who sold me the paint told me it wouldn’t work (based on his experience, and only after we had put 2 coats on). Thanks for your comment.
One minute in and I can lready tell you n😮were you went wrong. First off dont use paint to seal inside a gas tank EVER. Secondly you gotta let it dry right before you seal it and cure ot properly after.
What cause the issues os prolly impropper prep a nd a wet tank. The sliver liner stuff will form a shell of there touch moistire or solvent fume and if youale the same mostake w redkote it will stay sludgy and melt into the fuel and screw up your carb and engine. Gotta follow the directions fellas
This “paint” is specially designed for this purpose. It was allowed to dry as per the manufacturer’s instructions. It was thoroughly dried, too. I can imagine the prep not being perfect in some areas, but the poor adhesion was extensive. So, our point is that this product may work in “ideal” conditions, but even when the instructions are followed thoroughly this can be the result. Thanks for your comment.
I used por15 on my suzuki tank, and 10 yrs later it is still perfect.
Nice to hear. Is it a relatively small, simply-shaped tank?
It's saying paint how's paint a petrol sealant please don't upload fake videos
We're not sure what you're talking about. Sorry.
The video said paint
3 coats of paint
Point taken.