Good video. I just did that replacement last week at 140k on a 2010 SEL. I was able to roll it out without even removing the throttle body. I had to tuck up the 2 vacuum lines and get all I could moving the master cylinder over, but the real trick is postioning the long threaded bolts to roll over the master cylinder as well as the shorter theaded bolts around throttle body. The new OEM booster went in rather smoothly. I have a steel clip for the steel pin for the booster yoke to connect to pedal... no plastic.
Thank you! And hey, kudos and more power to you if you were able to get it free without messing with anything on the intake side of things. Looking back it's not a horrible job to do (although it's must easier on some other vehicles, my F-150's for example) the most difficult part for me was the limited space to work in and sweating constantly in this Texas heat! Glad you got it taken care of though, thanks for giving the video a watch.
Good video. I removed the intake manifold and battery and pushed the brake master cylinder out of the way. Had to wrestle with the booster while weaving wires and hoses around the booster mounting bolts to get it out. Replacement booster went in easier than removal. Inside job was easy with a little difficulty accessing mounting nuts. Finding the 4 holes in the firewall during replacement was also a little crazy. Not a difficult job, but that booster is buried.
Thank you. Glad you were able to get it knocked out. If I had to do it again I’d do myself a favor and position the car where I could get the door all the way open, and make sure I’m stocked up on swivel sockets.
Good video. Especially on switch install and calibrate. I did the removal and installation without removing the intake or throttle body. I watched another guys video and used his technique. Not too bad and it seemed to go back in easier. Still a job I wouldn't want to do again.
Thanks, I appreciate it. It’s a straightforward process so it’s “easy” in that regard, but it’s always irritating when there’s not much room to work and you have to remove a bunch of stuff just to get to the part you’re concerned with.
Great video. Best advice was to remove the Upper Intake manifold. Eight bolts saves a lot of knicked knuckles. Also the recommendation for the brake switch reset.
Thanks for the video, I was lucky enough that I didn’t have to take out the intake or throttle body to get the break booster out but it was def a bit of a pain.
Check out at 4:45. You’ll need to squeeze one side of that clip in enough that it can slip through to the other side. Putting it back in is much easier.
hey, thanks for doing this video. I had to do this work myself. One question I have is, why did you replace the brake pedal sensor? I was able to grab the tip and pull it out so it was fully extended. Then I put it back in the car releasing the peddle to reset the sensor. Wondering if what I did was ok or not for the sensor.
Hey no problem! At the time I thought replacing the sensor was the best option for not having further issues. You can actually depress the plunger all the way down and release it, and that’ll reset it. I’m not sure how pulling it out affects anything…
This is a very painful job by yourself. I have spent the last 3 hours trying to align the new bolts from the booster into their holes in the firewall. No luck. They bend very easily and then don't match up. I made sure I measured the bolt distances to make sure my new part was correct - and it is. Still working on trying to align the bolts on the booster. Really fucked up design. Thanks Ford.
My 2013 Edge has the I4 Eco boost engine, it's been a couple weeks and I'm still feel beat up from it, back hurts, outside of right hand is still sore.
Here's the part number: 3M5Z-2L523-AA, www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-power-brake-booster-pin-3m5z2l523aa In the meantime you could try putting a wooden dowel in there of the same size, with a washer or cotter pin on the ends. Or run a zip tie through an cinch it up tight.
Do you have to bleed the brakes to change the brake booster? I don’t know much about cars, but I’m pretty sure it’s the brake booster so I ordered both the brake booster and master cylinder. My father in-law knows everything about cars and he is going to help me. I also want to make sure my car will start after. I have a 2011 Ford Edge and last time I replaced something on a 1999 Ford Explorer, it wouldn’t start because of the key/computer
You shouldn’t have any issues with it starting so I wouldn’t worry about that. You’ll need to bleed the brakes if the master cylinder gets disconnected, whether you’re replacing it or just getting it out of the way. Do your best to limit the amount of brake fluid lost. You can use plugs made for this or you can try using plastic cling wrap under the cap of the master cylinder before disconnecting to create a vacuum kinda like your finger on a straw. This will make bleeding easier and lower the chances of you needing to bleed the ABS module. You may get all the air out of the lines, but the module has chambers that open and close. To properly bleed it you’ll need a scan tool that can cycling them. I’m my case I did the base bleed, then took it to a shop for the ABS bleed since my scan tool doesn’t have that function. If you’re sure you’ve performed the bleed fully and still have a spongey pedal, you’ll need to bleed the ABS module. That was my case in both vehicles I did this on, 2013 MKX and 2014 Edge.
Have already gotten my new booster with out getting a switch. Would I be able to go ahead with the install and then go get a switch? Or do I need to wait get a switch and proceed all at the same time? Thanks in advance.
You can do it later. You just may have a discrepancy with the brake light in the meantime, but not guaranteed either. You can also try to reset your existing switch. I obviously didn’t do it here, but I think there are existing videos on resetting the plunger depth.
Just changed my brake booster and now my brake pedal goes all the way to the floor and it sounds like air is leaking somewhere in the engine compartment in that area. No idea what to do now. I’m not a mechanic
"NOTICE: The braided steel portions of the brake tubes should not be flexed. Do not position the brake master cylinder aside or damage to the brake tubes may result." Official guidance from FORD MOTOR COMPANY. REMOVE THE MASTER CYLINDER FROM THE VEHICLE.
This issue just arose with my 2013 Ford Edge. I had my rear rotors calipers and pads replaced then days later the brake pedal pressure was very inconsistent, the garage then told me that the booster is the issue and it's just coincidence It went right after they did that previous work, is there any reason to believe it wasn't coincidence?
That’s really difficult to determine unfortunately. It could be a coincidence. A typical way these boosters fail is brake fluid leaks from the master cylinder inside the booster. The fluid then deteriorates the inner diaphragm and leads to pressure leaks inside the booster. It could’ve failed on it’s own. Alternatively, they could’ve over filled the master cylinder when replacing parts and bleeding the system, the excess could’ve found it’s way into the booster. Apart from that, their normal procedures would not have had them do anything with the booster, so they would’ve had to have deliberately messed with it or sabotaged something which is very unlikely. It’s either a coincidence or an accident in my opinion, but it would be practically impossible to prove which, I think.
On the 2 I’ve done, the internal diaphragm ruptured. Your foot would slowly sink when holding down the brake and there was an audible noise, almost like air squeaking out of a balloon. Just not as loud or high pitched.
@@GooseAutoWorksuh. That noise. Was parked in my wife’s car the other day and stretched my legs and pushed down the break and heard that noise. Since then the breaks have been tougher.
Thank you for the video, but this is not that hard to do, a little bit of a pita yes. On the inside for nuts I used two long extensions with wobble tip on one , 13mm deep socket with Dewalt 3/8 impact , bam they come right out, yes I think loosening the intake is the way to go. I did take out the 3 10mm bolts on the bracket that hold the throttle cable in place to move it a bit out of the way to give bit more room for the master cylinder . This really is not that hard to do it yourself.
Mechanical difficulty-wise it’s not bad, no. My biggest gripe is just not being able to physically fit in some of the areas I needed to. It also didn’t help I didn’t leave myself a lot of trim to open the driver door, but didn’t realize until I was too deep to move it. I hope it helped though.
@markdjura2018 If I remember correctly, I think there might be an orientation. It might be “upside down”. But also check none of the plungers or rods are caught on each other and make sure it’s going in straight the the threaded rods on the backside aren’t bent.
Hey man, i know this isnt the mustang but did you ever upgrade your alt on the mustang? i have a08 bullitt and have a problem with chewing through alternators. Ive replaced 6 so far and just bought a PA performance alt and im really hoping it fixes my issue.
Hey. I have replaced mine a couple times. I did a video on that too: ua-cam.com/video/X6qHP6dOjRU/v-deo.html I’m not sure on the PA Performance one, but I know the Denso style ones they made for the later 3V cars are supposed to be better. Department of Boost makes their upgraded, “bulletproof” alternator based off of them, but it looks like they’re discontinued now…
@@GooseAutoWorks Yeah i saw that too. I keep seeing everywhere that pa performance solved a lot of issues for some guys, cause like you said the stock ones hate to be revved high. I did the math and i dont see the pa performance one working but idk. they claim their alts shaft has a max of 16000 rpms, my car witht he pulleys ratios comes out to 17,875 ish rpms. Im trying to find a high rpm alt but dont seem to have any luck and they are all saying they run 16000s. Im looking into an under drive pulley set up to have a smaller crank pulley overall which should lower the maximum output rpms to the shaft int he alt but not seeing anything other than SR performance.
An under drive pulley is good thought. I know there used to be a few companies that made them, but I guess as the platform ages there’s less support. As simple of a part as it is though I wouldn’t imagine there being much difference/construction wise unless is was just a cheap metal.
@@GooseAutoWorks Yeah the only thing i saw was from sr performance. I contacted pa and they said get a bigger alt pulley and itll do the same thing, so i ordered a 2.9 inch pulley which drops my ratio to a 2.2:1 ratio which mean the max output is 14560 rpms put of the 16000 max rpms the alt can handle, praying my math is correct that is. and my idle rpms will still be able to charge the car as well. So I should be good now and shouldnt be chewing through alternators, cause ford decided lets push the bullitts redline to 6500 and give it the same garbage alts that get destroyed at 6250 rpm. Even at 5500 rpm the stock alt is on the high side of danger. But hey thats what happens when ford drops 90s tech in a late 2000s car.
Good video. I just did that replacement last week at 140k on a 2010 SEL. I was able to roll it out without even removing the throttle body. I had to tuck up the 2 vacuum lines and get all I could moving the master cylinder over, but the real trick is postioning the long threaded bolts to roll over the master cylinder as well as the shorter theaded bolts around throttle body. The new OEM booster went in rather smoothly. I have a steel clip for the steel pin for the booster yoke to connect to pedal... no plastic.
Thank you! And hey, kudos and more power to you if you were able to get it free without messing with anything on the intake side of things. Looking back it's not a horrible job to do (although it's must easier on some other vehicles, my F-150's for example) the most difficult part for me was the limited space to work in and sweating constantly in this Texas heat! Glad you got it taken care of though, thanks for giving the video a watch.
When I do this I always take the front seat out. Really quick really easy and now you can lay on your back and do it no problem.
Yeah, I think that’s the play if I ever need to do it again.
Good video. I removed the intake manifold and battery and pushed the brake master cylinder out of the way. Had to wrestle with the booster while weaving wires and hoses around the booster mounting bolts to get it out.
Replacement booster went in easier than removal.
Inside job was easy with a little difficulty accessing mounting nuts.
Finding the 4 holes in the firewall during replacement was also a little crazy.
Not a difficult job, but that booster is buried.
Thank you. Glad you were able to get it knocked out. If I had to do it again I’d do myself a favor and position the car where I could get the door all the way open, and make sure I’m stocked up on swivel sockets.
Good video. Especially on switch install and calibrate. I did the removal and installation without removing the intake or throttle body. I watched another guys video and used his technique. Not too bad and it seemed to go back in easier. Still a job I wouldn't want to do again.
Thanks, I appreciate it. It’s a straightforward process so it’s “easy” in that regard, but it’s always irritating when there’s not much room to work and you have to remove a bunch of stuff just to get to the part you’re concerned with.
Great video. Best advice was to remove the Upper Intake manifold. Eight bolts saves a lot of knicked knuckles. Also the recommendation for the brake switch reset.
Thanks! Glad to hear it!
Thanks for the video, I was lucky enough that I didn’t have to take out the intake or throttle body to get the break booster out but it was def a bit of a pain.
One of the lucky ones! I’m glad the video helped you out and you were able to take care of it yourself.
@@GooseAutoWorkshow did you remove the booster from the pedal????
Check out at 4:45. You’ll need to squeeze one side of that clip in enough that it can slip through to the other side. Putting it back in is much easier.
@@GooseAutoWorks got it. Must of missed it. Thanks
@deidrequeen3288 No problem. Good luck!
hey, thanks for doing this video. I had to do this work myself. One question I have is, why did you replace the brake pedal sensor? I was able to grab the tip and pull it out so it was fully extended. Then I put it back in the car releasing the peddle to reset the sensor. Wondering if what I did was ok or not for the sensor.
Hey no problem! At the time I thought replacing the sensor was the best option for not having further issues. You can actually depress the plunger all the way down and release it, and that’ll reset it. I’m not sure how pulling it out affects anything…
THANKS FOR VERY INTERESTING VIDEO
This is a very painful job by yourself. I have spent the last 3 hours trying to align the new bolts from the booster into their holes in the firewall. No luck. They bend very easily and then don't match up. I made sure I measured the bolt distances to make sure my new part was correct - and it is. Still working on trying to align the bolts on the booster. Really fucked up design. Thanks Ford.
My 2013 Edge has the I4 Eco boost engine, it's been a couple weeks and I'm still feel beat up from it, back hurts, outside of right hand is still sore.
It’s tight quarters for sure. Glad you were able to get it done though!
Do you have a link to buy for the blue break switch
Yep, here ya go: amzn.to/3H7RGIG
So my pedal isn’t connected to my booster at all and no where sells that Lil pin you have shown… what else could I use I’m stuck rn
Here's the part number: 3M5Z-2L523-AA, www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-power-brake-booster-pin-3m5z2l523aa
In the meantime you could try putting a wooden dowel in there of the same size, with a washer or cotter pin on the ends. Or run a zip tie through an cinch it up tight.
Do you have to bleed the brakes to change the brake booster? I don’t know much about cars, but I’m pretty sure it’s the brake booster so I ordered both the brake booster and master cylinder. My father in-law knows everything about cars and he is going to help me. I also want to make sure my car will start after. I have a 2011 Ford Edge and last time I replaced something on a 1999 Ford Explorer, it wouldn’t start because of the key/computer
You shouldn’t have any issues with it starting so I wouldn’t worry about that. You’ll need to bleed the brakes if the master cylinder gets disconnected, whether you’re replacing it or just getting it out of the way. Do your best to limit the amount of brake fluid lost. You can use plugs made for this or you can try using plastic cling wrap under the cap of the master cylinder before disconnecting to create a vacuum kinda like your finger on a straw. This will make bleeding easier and lower the chances of you needing to bleed the ABS module. You may get all the air out of the lines, but the module has chambers that open and close. To properly bleed it you’ll need a scan tool that can cycling them. I’m my case I did the base bleed, then took it to a shop for the ABS bleed since my scan tool doesn’t have that function. If you’re sure you’ve performed the bleed fully and still have a spongey pedal, you’ll need to bleed the ABS module. That was my case in both vehicles I did this on, 2013 MKX and 2014 Edge.
Have already gotten my new booster with out getting a switch. Would I be able to go ahead with the install and then go get a switch? Or do I need to wait get a switch and proceed all at the same time? Thanks in advance.
You can do it later. You just may have a discrepancy with the brake light in the meantime, but not guaranteed either. You can also try to reset your existing switch. I obviously didn’t do it here, but I think there are existing videos on resetting the plunger depth.
Just changed my brake booster and now my brake pedal goes all the way to the floor and it sounds like air is leaking somewhere in the engine compartment in that area. No idea what to do now. I’m not a mechanic
It sounds like you missed a vacuum line to the booster. You should bleed your brakes as well if you haven’t already.
"NOTICE: The braided steel portions of the brake tubes should not be flexed. Do not position the brake master cylinder aside or damage to the brake tubes may result." Official guidance from FORD MOTOR COMPANY. REMOVE THE MASTER CYLINDER FROM THE VEHICLE.
This issue just arose with my 2013 Ford Edge. I had my rear rotors calipers and pads replaced then days later the brake pedal pressure was very inconsistent, the garage then told me that the booster is the issue and it's just coincidence It went right after they did that previous work, is there any reason to believe it wasn't coincidence?
That’s really difficult to determine unfortunately. It could be a coincidence. A typical way these boosters fail is brake fluid leaks from the master cylinder inside the booster. The fluid then deteriorates the inner diaphragm and leads to pressure leaks inside the booster. It could’ve failed on it’s own. Alternatively, they could’ve over filled the master cylinder when replacing parts and bleeding the system, the excess could’ve found it’s way into the booster. Apart from that, their normal procedures would not have had them do anything with the booster, so they would’ve had to have deliberately messed with it or sabotaged something which is very unlikely. It’s either a coincidence or an accident in my opinion, but it would be practically impossible to prove which, I think.
Out of curiosity what is the cause for swapping. Right now my brake pedal is solid when pressing to start the car but everything else works fine
On the 2 I’ve done, the internal diaphragm ruptured. Your foot would slowly sink when holding down the brake and there was an audible noise, almost like air squeaking out of a balloon. Just not as loud or high pitched.
@@GooseAutoWorksuh. That noise. Was parked in my wife’s car the other day and stretched my legs and pushed down the break and heard that noise. Since then the breaks have been tougher.
Yeah, that sounds familiar.
@@GooseAutoWorks how long did the fix take you? Roughly
Thank you for the video, but this is not that hard to do, a little bit of a pita yes. On the inside for nuts I used two long extensions with wobble tip on one , 13mm deep socket with Dewalt 3/8 impact , bam they come right out, yes I think loosening the intake is the way to go. I did take out the 3 10mm bolts on the bracket that hold the throttle cable in place to move it a bit out of the way to give bit more room for the master cylinder . This really is not that hard to do it yourself.
Mechanical difficulty-wise it’s not bad, no. My biggest gripe is just not being able to physically fit in some of the areas I needed to. It also didn’t help I didn’t leave myself a lot of trim to open the driver door, but didn’t realize until I was too deep to move it. I hope it helped though.
@@GooseAutoWorks Yes it was a good video and I used it to do mine that day..
Does this same thing happen in a 2013 ford edge?
Yes. I have replaced on both 2013 MKX and 2014 Edge. Same part, same problem.
The new booster dint came with white seal gasket is that ok or i need to buy seal
You’ll need a gasket there to ensure everything is sealed, yes.
One more thing please,wen i put new one feels like its not fitting right,its like far maybe inch from firewall,
And i put it in corectly
@markdjura2018 If I remember correctly, I think there might be an orientation. It might be “upside down”. But also check none of the plungers or rods are caught on each other and make sure it’s going in straight the the threaded rods on the backside aren’t bent.
Hey man, i know this isnt the mustang but did you ever upgrade your alt on the mustang? i have a08 bullitt and have a problem with chewing through alternators. Ive replaced 6 so far and just bought a PA performance alt and im really hoping it fixes my issue.
Hey. I have replaced mine a couple times. I did a video on that too: ua-cam.com/video/X6qHP6dOjRU/v-deo.html I’m not sure on the PA Performance one, but I know the Denso style ones they made for the later 3V cars are supposed to be better. Department of Boost makes their upgraded, “bulletproof” alternator based off of them, but it looks like they’re discontinued now…
@@GooseAutoWorks Yeah i saw that too. I keep seeing everywhere that pa performance solved a lot of issues for some guys, cause like you said the stock ones hate to be revved high. I did the math and i dont see the pa performance one working but idk. they claim their alts shaft has a max of 16000 rpms, my car witht he pulleys ratios comes out to 17,875 ish rpms. Im trying to find a high rpm alt but dont seem to have any luck and they are all saying they run 16000s. Im looking into an under drive pulley set up to have a smaller crank pulley overall which should lower the maximum output rpms to the shaft int he alt but not seeing anything other than SR performance.
@@GooseAutoWorks Just tired of my car eating these things like candy.
An under drive pulley is good thought. I know there used to be a few companies that made them, but I guess as the platform ages there’s less support. As simple of a part as it is though I wouldn’t imagine there being much difference/construction wise unless is was just a cheap metal.
@@GooseAutoWorks Yeah the only thing i saw was from sr performance. I contacted pa and they said get a bigger alt pulley and itll do the same thing, so i ordered a 2.9 inch pulley which drops my ratio to a 2.2:1 ratio which mean the max output is 14560 rpms put of the 16000 max rpms the alt can handle, praying my math is correct that is. and my idle rpms will still be able to charge the car as well. So I should be good now and shouldnt be chewing through alternators, cause ford decided lets push the bullitts redline to 6500 and give it the same garbage alts that get destroyed at 6250 rpm. Even at 5500 rpm the stock alt is on the high side of danger. But hey thats what happens when ford drops 90s tech in a late 2000s car.