I forgot to mention that this DAC has a very hot output signal. It's said to be 5V on SE outs but I think it's even higher since it's louder than most 5V BAL outs in a direct comparison. Beware of this if deciding to make one. Some preamps might not accept such high signals. If you doubt that could be the case, Cathode follower might be a better option. I made Anode follower version since Fikus prefers it sonically.
@iiWiReviews thanks for replying. Like you said in the video, it seems going balanced would be a lot of extra unnecessary work and money. I have an Aune S17 Pro, have you tested your dac with the review sample S17 you have? If it can tolerate the 5V single ended that would be great news and I'll probably dive straight into the project 😄
My youngest brother has a Lampizator DAC (I’d have to find out the model from him). Years ago we spent a weekend building a Lampucera and then comparing the two. It’s too long ago to remember the details but we put the Lampucera at 90-95% of the Lampizator. The Lampucera improved with Mundorf output caps and Elna Silmic caps in the power stage.
THANKS SO much for sharing sO deeply Your project And thanks Lukass for sharing your original design & Not being greedy to keep it just for you Grear STUFF i ll try it if ican find parts in Africa
I had my power amplifiers capacitors upgraded from Jantzen Audio Superior-Z caps to Miflex Audio caps and experienced similar improvement/result as you did with your DAC. I too would recommend the Miflex Caps.
This experiment fits the statement that I saw in a video from channel OCD HI-Fi Guy where it is said that the output stage and power supply are the most important parts of a DAC sound quality and that chips can basically be ignored.
Thank you for making this information available! I think sometimes its hard to evaluate the value of DIY-projects since components became quite expensive, especially if you opt for more esoteric parts. Whats missing is a benchmark to compare the output of these projects to commercial products, so I´m hoping to see more DIY videos on this channel! :)
Love your diy videos! You now got end game dac, end game pre amp, your sprit wind I bet is your end game speaker, now I'm waiting to see your end game amp and the review of your avanger end game system!
Where did you get the case? I did not see that in the Google Doc. Would be nice to see a Google Spreadsheet with every part, quantity, link to purchase... Thank you
I feel a little dismayed. The video says that if you can solder, read a schematic, and have some experience building stuff, this should be easy. But looking through the documentation, it seems to be targeted to very experienced builders. I don't see a BOM or general instructions, and the schematics are kind of scattered around with multiple versions for different options that are not clearly identified. Someone would be doing the world a huge favor by organizing, documenting, and simplifying this project, just a little.
@@alanhuth7568 I sent the info over to my guitar amplifier tech. He said he could build it. 3-4 hours labor. I'm in. I hope you make it happen somehow.
Cool video. I have built multiple DIY dacs. Amazing what can be achieved in a shed. I also used a Lampizator circuit with 6n2p valves. 8x TDA1387 dacs.
Thank you iiWi for your share of the info. As for the 6n6p tube, I downloaded a white paper written by Lucas a dozen or so years ago where he talks about this 6n6p tube then he goes on to say he discovered a sister tube the 6n1p which he liked better then discovered another sister tube the 6n2p which he says was sonically even better. You might want to check out the 6n2p… Thanks again, Marc
6n2p(ecc83) it is the tube with great amplification factor, which is useful as a first voltage amplification in vinyl correctors, mic amp. and so on. but it operates with small anode current only (
thanks for this video i grabbed some of your files and will maybe do a version of it in the future. But know I would have to also change things as i dont work well to a recipe. I had dropped you and many of my subscriptions to reviewers about 18 months ago once i decided to go the DIY path. I liked your content but was concentrating on trying to learn for myself. Recently have looked at some of those sold reviewers and super happy to have watched this video and to re-subscribe. A video on a comparison of your 4 different versions would be interesting. You are lucky to have a group to learn with ; would be very useful to work in a group, has taken me two years to build a tube amp as there is a lot to learn and spare time is limited. Thanks again for all l the information.
Liked your video very much, thank you. I have a Abbas audio 2.2. dac (tda 1541 chip with tubes). It was my first (and last?) purchase on a DAC. I'm curious how it sounds in comparison with your tube DAC. Curiousity will stay in the audio buisiness I guess 🙂
Many thanks - it would be really appreciated if you also covered lower capability DACS with USB. At the moment very happy with a Khadas Tone Board. I will fit the seperate power supply, isolation circuit and reset switch between 2 perspex sheets. The downside is that sometimes the DAC stops decoding and needs a DC reset.
Great video! Did you try replacing bridge rectifiers with hand build discrete 4 x MUR860 or other similar diodes ? It makes a really nice difference for very very little investment , sound great on analog section rectifier. Also some of the electrolitics caps repalced in key areas will have great affect on sound . For example 2 Black Gate NX when wired into Super E canceling Cap way would being noise levels into ridiculous levels affecting sound in amazing way. It can now be tried now with current Rubycon AudioNote Kasei NonPolars at not very high cost ... ❤ This is fantastic project to learn how different parts affect sound quality ....yes they all affect the sound 😉 How would a main value Miflex cap sound when bypased with V ODAM of say 0.1uf ? Have fun and enjoy your hobby and passion for sound .
I didn't but I may at one point. For example I would like to try Mundorf electrolytics in the PS. That's all for some later time when I get bored and feel the upgrade itch. 🙂
@@iiWiReviews Just have fun with it. Mundorf electrolitics in my power amp sound very low noise , neutral tonally, have punchy bass and great bass control . I'm using 4 pole Jensen's that are obsoleted and they sound richer tonally but maybe a tad less punchy... Audio Note Kasei are super clean and low noise sounding cap with lush sound and open top with soundstage to die for. Some of lower values are priced all right .
Greetings! Thank you for this video. I am interested in building this DAC. I would like to use a ESS chip. Is this possible? Also, would you consider building a streamer of similar quality? I am thinking of a streamer design such as the Aurender series. Finally for this DAC why not use a separate power supply unit?
It's possible of course. I belive that all ESS chips are with current output (this one is voltage) so you would need to add the I/V conversion in that case. How that's done would also influence the final sound quality. So it's not a straightforward chip change but needs different output stage. Streamer is a whole different beast, and software plays a huge role there, so I'm not ready to tackle that topic. 🙂
Thank you, great video. I bought this ebay board set but the board layout and component names are different. Do you have any guidance on how to proceed with this current board. Thanks.
Wow, three (!) toroidal transformers in a DAC seems a bit over the top. Those transformers must certainly be capable of handling at least 30 W, each. The one in the middle looks capable of around 60 W. I also do not understand how/why the capacitors can be/are so big given their modest filtering capability of 2.7 microfarads. On the other hand there seem to be 4 more capacitors (maybe Elna?), so perhaps it is the combination that makes the magic? Anyway, very interesting stuff. I am something of a newbie to Hi-Fi and am basically just weathering my ignorance loudly.
Hiya! I had a look at the notes, and although you mentioned a custom made Toroidal transformer, I was wondering how many toroidal transformers and at what Nominal Power and Nominal anode current? I think it was mentioned that going with toroids that are too small compromises things, so what is the ideal kind of size? Also, is there any potential to modify the SE so that it becomes XLR?
Another quick question, just out of curiosity. Why use Miflex caps with over 400V capability when surely 250V is more than enough, and smaller and cheaper?
I wanted to use 250V version but few people told me that 600V actually sound better. I can't confirm or deny that, but I didn't want to doubt my decision later on, so I went with 600V. Full disclosure here, I don't think it matters really.
From my online search, Lampizator uses anode follower, cathode follower and SRPP in various DAC. You are using anode follower in this project. Is there any particular reason?
I used 1W across the board (which is overkill in most places but a safe choice), but that tube heater resistor that adjust the voltage needs to be at least 5W because there's 750mA going trough it.
Thanks so much for sharing this design. In terms of the output, did you consider a simple voltage divider using resistors on the output to 1/2 the output voltage?
I didn not because my preamp handles this voltage just fine. It's worth exploring but I'm guessing it would have some kind od impact on the sound. Every L-pad does in the end. There's also a Cathode follower schematic that natively gives half the output signal... But Fikus prefers this one sonically and so did my friend that tried both.
@@iiWiReviews to be clear, I'm suggesting based purely from an electrical standpoint, but I'm sure there is an "optimal" configuration with additional components that maintains the power curve and dynamic.. at the end, there are plenty of components (ie resistors, caps, etc.) already in the signal path.. Perhaps someone can contribute how to best divide the voltage with minimal degradation.
Thanks a lot, great work!! Wondering if you have also verified the awesome DIY Kits from Ian Canada? Love it, especially his craziness about perfect power 😅 Also have a look at Abbas Audio (own an SE3.2, outperforms my €15k commercial DAC). His building is outstanding, like Audio Note.
I used the smallest 0.01uF bypass. It opens the midrange a bit more. Other tuning stuff incuded trying few different tubes. 6N6P with red tip and OTK stamp sounds great.
I have a Lampucera DAC and would love to build this tube analogue stage but the schematics are terrible. I cannot read the designation for many of the components. For example, I do not see a value for RG on the tube screens. Does anyone have a better copy?
All this looks very good... now what about trying a modern ES9038 or ES9068 or AKM Velvet 449x DAC board in it, or a good old TDA1541 with a Yamaha receiver chip and a custom IV stage? I also prefer the copper-foil/paper in oil caps (e.g. Audio Note and Jupiter, which are far more expensive than Miflex, but the latter look pretty similar, so need to try them, too). Also try some good CC resistors, you might be surprised. Not speaking about rectification diodes, huge differences there. As for the output stage, I found that good LDMOS designs sound better than most tube designs in DAC builds and headphone amps (and are also more practical), but in electrostatic energizers and speaker amps tubes are still a better (more musical) choice, even better than GaN or SiC, in the sense that it's easier to make good sound with tubes (semiconductors measure better in all accounts). YMMV. The point is that today, in low voltage applications, good semiconductor designs can match tube designs in all musical criteria, with lower noise and better power delivery. So the deciding factor and the guarantee for good sound is not really that it has a tube output stage, but what kind of design and implementation that is. Back to the Lampucera case, I really wonder how a more up to date DAC board might fare.
Question about the transformer 2 x 120v. I see on the schematic voltage 2 x 120v but on the same schematic output from the transformer 150v. Which transformer did you order from Trafomatic? 230v / dual 150v or 230v dual 120v?
@@petercrook1111The schematic has issues. For example, the PS for the Anode is connected by the 150k Ohm resistor. The negative is not connected to anything.
Hello , thank you for the ncie review.......... 6N1P is close to a 6DJ7/ECC88 but not the same .....one can substitute when the operation points allow it !( but not in all cases ) AVOID ......6922 /7308 , they have no damper mica fingers on the cathose as do,have the ECC88 and ECC188 /CCA ! 6922 is prone to ringing and that fault is often liked by audiophiles who think it gives more highs !!!!!..........but is is a fault Not all 6922 have the fault , one should check , some NOS selected are good ! BEST tubes ( musicality ) are nos ...like the SIEMENS/HALSKE , TELEFUNKRN and PHILIPS SQ ( same as the famous Bugle boys from AMPEREX witch are in fact PHILIPS tubes that have beeb burned in and selected ! My favoured tubes are the CCA ( CC = double triode and C stands for the premium grade or the best tube we can build !) ECC188 Siemns Some E88CC TELEFUNKEN and SIEMENS ( selected ) Original ECC88 NOS ( selected ) AND ..........the wonderfull sounding PCC88 SIEMENS .......( string filament + based on curerent drive insteéad of voltage ....300 MA / 7.4 OR 7.6 VOLT ) Another great sounding tube with guts , rythm and drive is the 12BH7GE ..........lots od energy , up and go ... A tube to avoid is the SIEMNS/ECG 7308 ( US MADE nos ) .........(Siemens bought ECG former Sylvania /us PHILIPS .......) PS: ECC88:/6DJ7 have max plate voltage of 1340 volt! Some PCC 89 are relabeled as a EEC88 or 6922 ..........AVOID AT ALL TIMES !! Only buy from respectable sellers ..........Beware of fraud on E-BAY !! Have a nice day
I'm not great at following schematics. Do you think it would be too much trouble to create a wiring diagram? I suppose I could make one following the schematic and pictures. Great job though, I love DIY audio.
I don't think you'll have much luck getting help with this, people who have built these lampizator /lampucera don't seem to want to help people like us less knowledgeable people. I know that I could build one if I had a part's list and a proper diagram,the diagrams all seem to be hand drawn with several different versions, I have the dac coming from china just in case I figure it all out. Anyway good luck I hope you manage to make one if I have any luck I'll let you know. 👍
Greetings from Poland, I'm long-time friend of Łukasz Fikus (pronounced "Wukasz", first letter like in "wow" or "woman"). DIY is a funny hobby :) I believe your DAC sounds great, heard many of Łukasz DAC's. Cirrus logic chips where used by MBL sources as well, now you see that delta sigma or r2r is not everything, tubes also contribute to the final effect and other parts and their values. Also I know (and used) copper PiO caps but from Audio Note, despite that miflex is from Poland :)
The AN are excelent also..........Miflexx is a little upfront ........Duelund tinned copper is my favoured ......the easy going timing of the notes are more to my taste and not as upfront as Miflex ...Miflex is an excellent quality for the price nevertheless........ Tinned copper sou nds better than silver and copper hybrid....personal opinion !
Thanks Srba for bringing up to us this do it yourself project based on Lukasz early work. It is indeed a great DAC competing with any high market several thousand € ones. As I build it myself almost like yours with the same miflex capacitors I could concord with your review about the great sound. Also I compared myself at friend locations this dac with others high tier ones like Romanian made Rockna high end dac etc. and my smile was big when all the peoples present had prised it. Yes I used Amperex PQ golden pin they are 6922 tubes and I was thrilled with them, they had very extended bass great midrange and very extended highs, they matched perfectly, better that 6n6p with my former Wharfedale Linton speakers, because Lintons d'ont go such low and are a little rolled off on highs. But on the other hand now I changed the speakers with Golden Ear Triton one...and this speakers are truly full range from at least 20 hz to 32kz and they do not need Amperex tube in the DAC, it is to much, and rolled back to 6n6p that are more thru balanced sounding. But what is clear is that by changing different tubes you could significantly calibrate the sound.
Thanks for the nice video! I build a prototype of the lampucera 2.0 with the PCM1798 and using the SRPP circuit with 1N16B-V. 2 transformers, one for the digital section and one for the analogue section. All good components but not over the top as this was a prototype. As output capacitors I used Jantzen superior caps. To cut to the chase although it sounds good it does not really compare with my reference (holo may DAC) especially in terms of ping point accuracy (what I would call time domain information). Yes, the MAY is a strong competitor but nevertheless I was expecting a little better from this DAC, on top of that the removal of the subsonic filter creates a lot of high frequency aliasing that some amplifiers do not tollerate. Looks like from your feedback that the version 1 lampucera sounds better and I am happy for you, unfortunately I did not have the opportunity to listen to it before building it. My aim is to move away from commercial designs for my own interest as my hobby. The DAC is the one that I have not cracked yet. Now I am trying to build the Sygnalist DSC3 but this built is not for the average DIYer. For reference I use a speaker set called the loudspeaker 3 (Troels Gravesen), for amplifiers the solid state 2022 and the hybrid 2023 (see audiodesignguide website). For pre I use a Macintosh but also several DHT designs from bartola (the 01a low gain pre is my latest build).
I just picked up an old Ahh Tjoeb CD player which I believe has an SRPP output. (But still need to check the circuit) it does muddy the high frequencies a little. But gee for listening pleasure and realism it is far superior to a standard op amp DAC output. Main point is possibly SRPP is not the best circuit for pin point accuracy. With its more complex tube stage. But pretty good if not comparing to the best of the best. I've had disappointments with basic home made preamp tube stages. Haven't found what's stopping the magic in those designs yet
ADDITIONAL NOTE: After seeing this video I started wondering why there was such a massive difference in sound between Rev 1 and 2 of this DAC. Was not Rev 2 supposed to be better after all? I went back to the prototype and remove the cathode bypass capacitor as I could not see this installed on some SRPP boards I had pictures of. The sound immediately focused and improved drastically. I still need to compare it properly with the MAY DAC but first impressions are good. without this video I might just have given up!
UPDATE 2: after some extended listening without the bypass cap on the cathode resistor the rev2 of this design changed drastically. Compared back and forth with my MAY DAC (using my spectacular 01a pre) and this DAC just sounds fantastic….really impressed now :)
@@CanberraProtest-dm6hu can confirm the same experiece with several self built tube pre-amps. But my over 20yrs old TDA1541 with step up transformers and SRPP tube output still sounds wunderful.
Cool project! Would be interesting if you reviewed the musical paradise MP-DX. It is a DAC with a tube output stage were you can change capacitors. :) Also, you can upgrade the clock too!
6N1P is not a direct equivalent to ECC88/6DJ8, in fact it's really not equivalent to anything and is a unique Soviet design. 6N23P is the Soviet equivalent to ECC88. We do a lot of work with the 6N6P and consider it a "super tube", capable of doing an excellent job as a voltage gain amplifier (as in this case), cathode follower (CF stage) and also it can handle enough current at low enough impedance to be considered as an output tube in an OTL amp. But what's really important is it produces a very clean, dynamic, full/rich sound and fits nicely into your "everything over built/over spec" approach to this DIY build. For some reason a lot of people can't stick with a spec'd tube type and insist on trying anything and everything that will plug into the socket. This is the wrong approach unless you can design within the tube domain. A better approach is to take the advice of the designer and plug a 6N6P in, you'll never want to try anything else!
This was for me the most interesting video on DAC´s I have seen. I love to see this amazing inventive work. It seems that less is more. Thanks for uploading all necessary information. Much appreciated.
Thank you for making us aware of such an interesting build. Being non-technical, I have a friend who is prepared to do the build. A definitive list of parts would be really, really useful! Fabulous work.
This was a lot of fun to watch. Do it yourself kits were once more common. My brother’s first stereo system had a kit built Dynaco integrated amplifier.
I too have recently completed this build using a 12ax7 output stage. It is indeed a truly great sounding dac and a welcome successor to my outgoing Chinese device. Thanks, Srboljube for making us aware of this and well done with your wonderful over-the-top Lampucera!
@@therealpotato8031 Hi and thanks for making contact. I would be most happy to assist you if I can. What output tube are you planning on using? Which schematic are you having difficulty understanding? Cheers.
Well you sold me on this DAC, I ended up buying the DAC board to build my own version. Going to try a better 5V LPS and Ultracapacitors for the DAC, they made a big difference on my WiiM Pro+.
WoW! Thanks! Just what I've been looking for. Sent for the dac bundle. There was another Lampucera board and power supply using the PCM1798 DAC from a different seller. 2 things you might like to consider. 1 Decouple the valve from the case using rubber mount standoffs. 2 Using chokes in the power supply. I intend to try both. Also intend to try using 2 valves for independent L & R. They often come on matched pairs. Thanks again.
Amazing work and description. Congrats and thanks for sharing. I realise it's basically an off the shelf Delta-Sigma chip with careful point-to-point tube preamplification! The tuning of the sound comes mainly from the capacitors and tube choice. It comes to show that a preamp is so important. Musical Paradise MP-701 mk2 is a popular preamplifier that reminds me of his analog section (prob. without the gain) in which you can upgrade capacitors and tubes to get the sound that you want.
I would love to do this. I have the basic skills (I replaced the capacitors and resistors to audiophile grade in my Schiit Freya + with great success). This project is not above my abilities to construct if it was a kit. If I had specific parts for one build, sourcing for the parts and a video perhaps about basic assembly, then I could build this...but with all the scattered info here, multiple choices, extra notes and no firm structure to the presentation, as a beginner I am afraid that I do not have the ability to sort thru all of this information and make appropriate choices to layout a complete plan with sourcing.. This is very frustrating...I can see the candy...but the glass case will not let me touch it. ARRRGGGGHH! 😀😊😊 This sounds like a rewarding project!!!
I have an old 3D Lab cd300 cd player with CS4327-KS inside. Never heard deeper bass in my life from a dac . That is why i still keep this player up and running .
Easy upgrade then. I just bought an old Ahh Tjoeb modified marantz CD player with a tube output. Brilliant sound. For superior to a standard modern DAC. I have to check what DAC chip it has
Thanks for a great video. As A DIY sucker I'd love to do this but unfortunately I am technologically incapacitated. Actually, it sounds like the same philosophy of design as Border Patrol. Tube rectifier and keep it high quality and simple. I have observed Akatika amplifier kits for a while but vision issues precludes me making one of their amp r preamp kits. People seem to love them.
You have used two separate buttons to turn on and off the device and you have to pay attention to the order. How about using three-position knob instead? Anybody could operate that and never mess up the order.
I just bought a 24 yesr old Ahh Tjoeb CD player, which is a Marantz CD player modified with an EC88 dual tube output. I had one new years ago but sold it to travel. I had to get it again for personal reference. And wow it's the best digital sound I've had since I sold it 20 years ago. Now I understand how I listened to that CD player for hours a day. Definitely need tubes on a digital output. I almost bought one of the digital kits you talk about years ago. And will do it now to see how much better it can be and compare it to the Tjoeb circuit. Thanks heaps for the video. ❤❤
@@sean_heisler yes that's when I bought it too. I am surprised it sounds better than I remember. When I sold it it took 3 days before I could pack it up and post because I didn't want to b let it go. 🙃 Looking inside now I am also surprised it doesn't bypass the op amp. It's simply an add on buffer stage.
@@CanberraProtest-dm6hu The tubes do act as a buffer as opposed to an analog/gain output stage. Those opamps can be rolled, I’m sure you know. There’s a good refresher about the modifications in a Stereophile review if you search for it.
@@sean_heisler @sean_heisler I am going to send a signal from my professional hi res Tascam digital recorder into it and see how it goes. There is a little degradation of transient sound through the buffer but adds more life than it takes away. I guess that is what a good pre amp does. I've never has a good pre amp that improved the sound. It never made sense adding more circuitry should degrade it.
Thanks for sharing your nice video! I believe that you can even improve your project a little. At first, you can remove the caps betwen dac chip and tube grid and connect it directly. As an example old tube sheme like Loftin-White. Yes, Lukasz was wrong about it, you can do it! So, you need just to recalculate catode resistance for +2.5v bias instead 0v at a grid. Of course much Better to use output tubes in most linear point(current/anode voltage) after analizing I/U characteristics which depends on kind of applied tube... And second thing you can do it is se anode output transformers. I have used such solution in several devices like upgraded arcam cdp(wm8940) or aune 5s digital player( ak4490) with self made symmetric transformers 10+10:1+1 on cores 3-5-10 cm2. It works fine Even with small tubes with reassonable Ri like ecc88, ecc82,802, ecc180, 6922, 6n23/24p , 6n3p or excelent (really love it) but very rare 6n26p(possible replacement 6s3p/6s4p or pentodes in triode mode with anode current 10-15mA. But you ned transformers with around 10000 turns in primary to reach inductance over 100- 150H, so specific design for coils necessary. The main features for such solution: simple ultimative great soundung shematic with minimalistic set of component, galvanic separation for output, low output impedance like 600ohm and less. So you can use amplifiers with input resistance 1-10k and significantly improve sound quality. A couple more thing- stabilisators for tube heater and anode power with soft start and capacitors battery 5000+ mkF (of course bypassed by mica/mkp/paper-oil caps...).
From my experience it’s those copper caps. I’ve heard they aren’t all that. Just saying. The caps take too long to break in for too much $$. But honestly I haven’t even been excited about DAC until now. Dude u rock .
Hi - i enjoyed the content so much that i decided to try building a DIY DAC for the first time. im quite familiar with soldering and whatnot, however after successfully building similarly to the schematics : - resistor from 0.47u caps (400k originally -> i used 470k), - resistor from cathode to ground (300 ohm originally -> i used 330ohm) - Anode voltage ( electricity in my place is not that good, i got around 115 V AC with the 2x 120v AC transformer) - using a different dac board (ak4118 + ak4490) with output voltage of around 2.65 V on each left and right - currently using 6n1p-ev (waiting for 6n6p to arrive) i encountered an issue where the volume of the dac is super small, and when i try to increase the volume, it distorts horribly. may i know if anyone has experienced something similar or know regarding which parts are causing this issue? im currently going to try to lower the 15k resistor to 2.2k, in order to give more voltage to the anode of the 6n1p Thanks a lot for sharing any info or ideas XD
what do you think of Hegel hd12 ? if I build this with the ebay kit with toroidal psu upgrade and upgraded caps and upgrade the 2 tubes from the ebay kit will it sound better than the Hegel hd12?
Thank you for this! I was wondering about the parts, process and your personal results with this build. I am not experienced with schematics and electronics assembly, but might see if I can find someone to guide and help me. A very happy new year to you and yours, Srboljub 🙏🏼🎊
Thank you very much for this very interesting video and sharing your personal experience building and listening to this DAC. Of course, many of us will not be able to build such a project and probably, some are wondering how you can approach your DAC with a commercial product. In my opinion, the closest is the Musical Paradise MP-DX ES9068 / ES9039MSPRO DAC. Even if the chip used here is different (ESS ES9039MSPRO), the spirit is quite similar, with the possibility of changing the output capacitors by yourself and without any solderingvery easily and without difficulty (2,2 uF / 400-600 Volts - Miflex, Jupiter, Duelund ...). Only two capacitors and two tubes are used with RCA cables, reducing costs. The four capacitors and tubes are however required with balanced XLR cables. It is also possible to vary a large number of tubes used in this DAC. The designer of this product is someone who carefully refines their devices through listening. After much thought, this is probably the direction I am heading to replace my Denafrips Ares II. Many thanks again for the quality of your videos and a great new year 2024 to all of you :)
I forgot to mention that this DAC has a very hot output signal. It's said to be 5V on SE outs but I think it's even higher since it's louder than most 5V BAL outs in a direct comparison. Beware of this if deciding to make one. Some preamps might not accept such high signals. If you doubt that could be the case, Cathode follower might be a better option. I made Anode follower version since Fikus prefers it sonically.
P
Do you know if a scaled up version of yours that is made for XLR would output 5V? Or would an XLR version double the output and be 10V?
XLR would be double the voltage.
@iiWiReviews thanks for replying. Like you said in the video, it seems going balanced would be a lot of extra unnecessary work and money.
I have an Aune S17 Pro, have you tested your dac with the review sample S17 you have?
If it can tolerate the 5V single ended that would be great news and I'll probably dive straight into the project 😄
I haven't but I will do it due to the popular demand. 😊
My youngest brother has a Lampizator DAC (I’d have to find out the model from him). Years ago we spent a weekend building a Lampucera and then comparing the two. It’s too long ago to remember the details but we put the Lampucera at 90-95% of the Lampizator. The Lampucera improved with Mundorf output caps and Elna Silmic caps in the power stage.
In Polish „lampucera” means a woman with lots of makeup on her face, usually not a very pretty one ;)
THANKS
SO much for sharing sO deeply
Your project
And thanks Lukass for sharing your original design & Not being greedy to keep it just for you
Grear STUFF
i ll try it if ican find parts in Africa
I had my power amplifiers capacitors upgraded from Jantzen Audio Superior-Z caps to Miflex Audio caps and experienced similar improvement/result as you did with your DAC. I too would recommend the Miflex Caps.
This experiment fits the statement that I saw in a video from channel OCD HI-Fi Guy where it is said that the output stage and power supply are the most important parts of a DAC sound quality and that chips can basically be ignored.
Thank you for making this information available! I think sometimes its hard to evaluate the value of DIY-projects since components became quite expensive, especially if you opt for more esoteric parts. Whats missing is a benchmark to compare the output of these projects to commercial products, so I´m hoping to see more DIY videos on this channel! :)
Happy New Year Srbo, all the best!
I hope you'll continue to make DIY projects like this outstanding DAC is (I've heard it and it's really amazing).
Love your diy videos! You now got end game dac, end game pre amp, your sprit wind I bet is your end game speaker, now I'm waiting to see your end game amp and the review of your avanger end game system!
Bravo Srboljube, palac gore za ovakav sadržaj i Lampućeru!
Where did you get the case? I did not see that in the Google Doc. Would be nice to see a Google Spreadsheet with every part, quantity, link to purchase... Thank you
Has my Tradutto met its match? Excellent vid. Happy New Year
I think it has. 🙂 Thanks and happy new year!
I feel a little dismayed. The video says that if you can solder, read a schematic, and have some experience building stuff, this should be easy. But looking through the documentation, it seems to be targeted to very experienced builders. I don't see a BOM or general instructions, and the schematics are kind of scattered around with multiple versions for different options that are not clearly identified. Someone would be doing the world a huge favor by organizing, documenting, and simplifying this project, just a little.
Bumping this so it finds a home
@@DJayH34TB34TZ Thank you. Still really interested in this.
@@alanhuth7568
I sent the info over to my guitar amplifier tech. He said he could build it. 3-4 hours labor. I'm in. I hope you make it happen somehow.
I started a build thread over at DiyAudio. Once that is completed, there will be good documentation for making a US version of this Lampucera.
@@alanhuth7568 good to know. Thank you sir
Cool video. I have built multiple DIY dacs. Amazing what can be achieved in a shed. I also used a Lampizator circuit with 6n2p valves. 8x TDA1387 dacs.
Thank you iiWi for your share of the info.
As for the 6n6p tube, I downloaded a white paper written by Lucas a dozen or so years ago where he talks about this 6n6p tube then he goes on to say he discovered a sister tube the 6n1p which he liked better then discovered another sister tube the 6n2p which he says was sonically even better. You might want to check out the 6n2p…
Thanks again, Marc
6n2p(ecc83) it is the tube with great amplification factor, which is useful as a first voltage amplification in vinyl correctors, mic amp. and so on. but it operates with small anode current only (
thanks for this video i grabbed some of your files and will maybe do a version of it in the future. But know I would have to also change things as i dont work well to a recipe. I had dropped you and many of my subscriptions to reviewers about 18 months ago once i decided to go the DIY path. I liked your content but was concentrating on trying to learn for myself. Recently have looked at some of those sold reviewers and super happy to have watched this video and to re-subscribe. A video on a comparison of your 4 different versions would be interesting. You are lucky to have a group to learn with ; would be very useful to work in a group, has taken me two years to build a tube amp as there is a lot to learn and spare time is limited. Thanks again for all l the information.
Another great video. I love DIY, so much bang for the buck. And it is fun to build and test.
Liked your video very much, thank you. I have a Abbas audio 2.2. dac (tda 1541 chip with tubes). It was my first (and last?) purchase on a DAC. I'm curious how it sounds in comparison with your tube DAC. Curiousity will stay in the audio buisiness I guess 🙂
Many thanks - it would be really appreciated if you also covered lower capability DACS with USB.
At the moment very happy with a Khadas Tone Board.
I will fit the seperate power supply, isolation circuit and reset switch between 2 perspex sheets.
The downside is that sometimes the DAC stops decoding and needs a DC reset.
Excellent video, thanks for sharing your experience. Happy New Year! 🎉
Thank you for a great presentation and a wonderful project
Great video!
Did you try replacing bridge rectifiers with hand build discrete 4 x MUR860 or other similar diodes ?
It makes a really nice difference for very very little investment , sound great on analog section rectifier.
Also some of the electrolitics caps repalced in key areas will have great affect on sound .
For example 2 Black Gate NX when wired into Super E canceling Cap way would being noise levels into ridiculous levels affecting sound in amazing way.
It can now be tried now with current Rubycon AudioNote Kasei NonPolars at not very high cost ... ❤
This is fantastic project to learn how different parts affect sound quality ....yes they all affect the sound 😉
How would a main value Miflex cap sound when bypased with V ODAM of say 0.1uf ?
Have fun and enjoy your hobby and passion for sound .
I didn't but I may at one point. For example I would like to try Mundorf electrolytics in the PS. That's all for some later time when I get bored and feel the upgrade itch. 🙂
@@iiWiReviews Just have fun with it.
Mundorf electrolitics in my power amp sound very low noise , neutral tonally, have punchy bass and great bass control . I'm using 4 pole Jensen's that are obsoleted and they sound richer tonally but maybe a tad less punchy...
Audio Note Kasei are super clean and low noise sounding cap with lush sound and open top with soundstage to die for. Some of lower values are priced all right .
Greetings! Thank you for this video. I am interested in building this DAC. I would like to use a ESS chip. Is this possible? Also, would you consider building a streamer of similar quality? I am thinking of a streamer design such as the Aurender series. Finally for this DAC why not use a separate power supply unit?
It's possible of course. I belive that all ESS chips are with current output (this one is voltage) so you would need to add the I/V conversion in that case. How that's done would also influence the final sound quality. So it's not a straightforward chip change but needs different output stage.
Streamer is a whole different beast, and software plays a huge role there, so I'm not ready to tackle that topic. 🙂
Please review Audial S5 DAC it's a product from your country! It's amazing implementation of TDA1541 I have one and I think it's my end game.. :)
Goes to show how power supply and output stages are sooooo important in a DAC. The DAC chip or R2R network is secondary and inexpensive.
Any chance to review the Audial S5 dac and A21 amp?
Do you believe one can replace the TOshlink optical with a ST Fiber glass output using this design ?
I wish that quality DIY HiFi kits were more of a common thing, like it was decades ago. Dynaco, Heathkit, Hafler, etc…
Have you heard the Holo May?
Thank you, great video. I bought this ebay board set but the board layout and component names are different. Do you have any guidance on how to proceed with this current board. Thanks.
Wow, three (!) toroidal transformers in a DAC seems a bit over the top. Those transformers must certainly be capable of handling at least 30 W, each. The one in the middle looks capable of around 60 W. I also do not understand how/why the capacitors can be/are so big given their modest filtering capability of 2.7 microfarads. On the other hand there seem to be 4 more capacitors (maybe Elna?), so perhaps it is the combination that makes the magic? Anyway, very interesting stuff. I am something of a newbie to Hi-Fi and am basically just weathering my ignorance loudly.
You should be able to use an E88CC in place of that 6n6p.
Hiya! I had a look at the notes, and although you mentioned a custom made Toroidal transformer, I was wondering how many toroidal transformers and at what Nominal Power and Nominal anode current? I think it was mentioned that going with toroids that are too small compromises things, so what is the ideal kind of size?
Also, is there any potential to modify the SE so that it becomes XLR?
Would a 12au7 work for a replacement tube? The 12au7 should be quieter and bring the output Voltage down.
Another quick question, just out of curiosity. Why use Miflex caps with over 400V capability when surely 250V is more than enough, and smaller and cheaper?
I wanted to use 250V version but few people told me that 600V actually sound better. I can't confirm or deny that, but I didn't want to doubt my decision later on, so I went with 600V.
Full disclosure here, I don't think it matters really.
Can the 250V version of the Miflex caps be used instead of the 600V, could save little bit of money
From my online search, Lampizator uses anode follower, cathode follower and SRPP in various DAC. You are using anode follower in this project. Is there any particular reason?
Hi. Both Fikus and a friend of mine that tried both agreed it sounds better (more energy, more soundstage) so I went with it.
Where is the BOM? Where can I source it from?
What are the powers of the resistors to use for the anode, cathode and grid circuits and RCA output?
THANKS
I used 1W across the board (which is overkill in most places but a safe choice), but that tube heater resistor that adjust the voltage needs to be at least 5W because there's 750mA going trough it.
Thanks so much for sharing this design. In terms of the output, did you consider a simple voltage divider using resistors on the output to 1/2 the output voltage?
I didn not because my preamp handles this voltage just fine. It's worth exploring but I'm guessing it would have some kind od impact on the sound. Every L-pad does in the end.
There's also a Cathode follower schematic that natively gives half the output signal... But Fikus prefers this one sonically and so did my friend that tried both.
@@iiWiReviews to be clear, I'm suggesting based purely from an electrical standpoint, but I'm sure there is an "optimal" configuration with additional components that maintains the power curve and dynamic.. at the end, there are plenty of components (ie resistors, caps, etc.) already in the signal path.. Perhaps someone can contribute how to best divide the voltage with minimal degradation.
Thanks a lot, great work!! Wondering if you have also verified the awesome DIY Kits from Ian Canada? Love it, especially his craziness about perfect power 😅 Also have a look at Abbas Audio (own an SE3.2, outperforms my €15k commercial DAC). His building is outstanding, like Audio Note.
I haven't tried anything from Ian Canada but my friend is building his dual power supply so we'll see about that.
Hello
You said you tuned your sound
Was it by putting in the Duelund cap across the miflex 2.7 micro f
What value Duelund did you use ❓
I used the smallest 0.01uF bypass. It opens the midrange a bit more. Other tuning stuff incuded trying few different tubes. 6N6P with red tip and OTK stamp sounds great.
Please share a the complete bill of materials you used.
Did you act in Mulholland Drive?
I have a Lampucera DAC and would love to build this tube analogue stage but the schematics are terrible. I cannot read the designation for many of the components. For example, I do not see a value for RG on the tube screens. Does anyone have a better copy?
same issue could'nt understand the schematics at all. and the pictures is not enough like it gets confusing on the tube part so many wires connected.
All this looks very good... now what about trying a modern ES9038 or ES9068 or AKM Velvet 449x DAC board in it, or a good old TDA1541 with a Yamaha receiver chip and a custom IV stage? I also prefer the copper-foil/paper in oil caps (e.g. Audio Note and Jupiter, which are far more expensive than Miflex, but the latter look pretty similar, so need to try them, too). Also try some good CC resistors, you might be surprised. Not speaking about rectification diodes, huge differences there. As for the output stage, I found that good LDMOS designs sound better than most tube designs in DAC builds and headphone amps (and are also more practical), but in electrostatic energizers and speaker amps tubes are still a better (more musical) choice, even better than GaN or SiC, in the sense that it's easier to make good sound with tubes (semiconductors measure better in all accounts). YMMV. The point is that today, in low voltage applications, good semiconductor designs can match tube designs in all musical criteria, with lower noise and better power delivery. So the deciding factor and the guarantee for good sound is not really that it has a tube output stage, but what kind of design and implementation that is. Back to the Lampucera case, I really wonder how a more up to date DAC board might fare.
Srba, in your diagram the power supply has 4 x 4.7uf caps is this incorrect ? , in the finished DAC there are only 3 per channel .
2 x 47uF and 2 x 4.7uF. Smaller ones are on top of the bigger ones and both are red blocks so it might not be easily seen on the picture.
@@iiWiReviews Thank you.
Never say end game.😊
One can dream. 😄
Question about the transformer 2 x 120v. I see on the schematic voltage 2 x 120v but on the same schematic output from the transformer 150v. Which transformer did you order from Trafomatic? 230v / dual 150v or 230v dual 120v?
150V is DC... rectified 120 V AC x 1.4 = 168 minus some loss in rectifier and RC stage.
What petercrook said.
@@petercrook1111The schematic has issues. For example, the PS for the Anode is connected by the 150k Ohm resistor. The negative is not connected to anything.
Ah nice purist dac project. Some argue that the added features of commercial dacs degrade the sound.
0 seconds ago
Hi - I can't seem to find the correct CS8416 + PCM1798 Lampucera DIY kit on looking in eBay in the UK. Any ideas anyone?
My UAD apollo twin x is going to be real sad after this build
Hello , thank you for the ncie review..........
6N1P is close to a 6DJ7/ECC88 but not the same .....one can substitute when the operation points allow it !( but not in all cases )
AVOID ......6922 /7308 , they have no damper mica fingers on the cathose as do,have the ECC88 and ECC188 /CCA ! 6922 is prone to ringing and that fault is often liked by audiophiles who think it gives more highs !!!!!..........but is is a fault
Not all 6922 have the fault , one should check , some NOS selected are good !
BEST tubes ( musicality ) are nos ...like the SIEMENS/HALSKE , TELEFUNKRN and PHILIPS SQ ( same as the famous Bugle boys from AMPEREX witch are in fact PHILIPS tubes that have beeb burned in and selected !
My favoured tubes are the CCA ( CC = double triode and C stands for the premium grade or the best tube we can build !)
ECC188 Siemns
Some E88CC TELEFUNKEN and SIEMENS ( selected )
Original ECC88 NOS ( selected )
AND ..........the wonderfull sounding PCC88 SIEMENS .......( string filament + based on curerent drive insteéad of voltage ....300 MA / 7.4 OR 7.6 VOLT )
Another great sounding tube with guts , rythm and drive is the 12BH7GE ..........lots od energy , up and go ...
A tube to avoid is the SIEMNS/ECG 7308 ( US MADE nos ) .........(Siemens bought ECG former Sylvania /us PHILIPS .......)
PS: ECC88:/6DJ7 have max plate voltage of 1340 volt!
Some PCC 89 are relabeled as a EEC88 or 6922 ..........AVOID AT ALL TIMES !!
Only buy from respectable sellers ..........Beware of fraud on E-BAY !!
Have a nice day
pretty sure any cheap DAC runs circles around this crazy exotic DAC in terms of measurements.
Do you have a meter that measures musical enjoyment?
Probably doesn’t sound as realistic, though.
Hi! Where di younput in the circuito those two bypass caps? Thanks
R- and L- from the board. Look at the Docs on Google drive, there are few schematics there and the link to original Fikus' writing on how to do it.
@@iiWiReviews thanks and Happy new year!!
@@iiWiReviews do you know the reasoning behind the choice to use the negative L & R from the dac output and not the positives?
R2R dacs sucks
Wrong
I'm not great at following schematics. Do you think it would be too much trouble to create a wiring diagram? I suppose I could make one following the schematic and pictures. Great job though, I love DIY audio.
I don't think you'll have much luck getting help with this, people who have built these lampizator /lampucera don't seem to want to help people like us less knowledgeable people.
I know that I could build one if I had a part's list and a proper diagram,the diagrams all seem to be hand drawn with several different versions, I have the dac coming from china just in case I figure it all out. Anyway good luck I hope you manage to make one if I have any luck I'll let you know. 👍
6n1p is not ecc88.
6n23p = ecc88
6n23-EB = e88cc
Hi - I can't seem to find the correct CS8416 + PCM1798 Lampucera DIY kit on looking in eBay in the UK. Any ideas anyone?
Hi, correct name is Łukasz Fikus. You pronounced very good but first letter is Ł (pronounced as W in english).
Greetings from Poland, I'm long-time friend of Łukasz Fikus (pronounced "Wukasz", first letter like in "wow" or "woman"). DIY is a funny hobby :) I believe your DAC sounds great, heard many of Łukasz DAC's. Cirrus logic chips where used by MBL sources as well, now you see that delta sigma or r2r is not everything, tubes also contribute to the final effect and other parts and their values. Also I know (and used) copper PiO caps but from Audio Note, despite that miflex is from Poland :)
The AN are excelent also..........Miflexx is a little upfront ........Duelund tinned copper is my favoured ......the easy going timing of the notes are more to my taste and not as upfront as Miflex ...Miflex is an excellent quality for the price nevertheless........
Tinned copper sou nds better than silver and copper hybrid....personal opinion !
Thanks Srba for bringing up to us this do it yourself project based on Lukasz early work. It is indeed a great DAC competing with any high market several thousand € ones. As I build it myself almost like yours with the same miflex capacitors I could concord with your review about the great sound. Also I compared myself at friend locations this dac with others high tier ones like Romanian made Rockna high end dac etc. and my smile was big when all the peoples present had prised it. Yes I used Amperex PQ golden pin they are 6922 tubes and I was thrilled with them, they had very extended bass great midrange and very extended highs, they matched perfectly, better that 6n6p with my former Wharfedale Linton speakers, because Lintons d'ont go such low and are a little rolled off on highs. But on the other hand now I changed the speakers with Golden Ear Triton one...and this speakers are truly full range from at least 20 hz to 32kz and they do not need Amperex tube in the DAC, it is to much, and rolled back to 6n6p that are more thru balanced sounding. But what is clear is that by changing different tubes you could significantly calibrate the sound.
salut! de unde esti ...ca esti singurul om din ro care si-ar fi facut dacul asta! tare as fi curios sa aud parerea ta despre el!
Super cool project! I hope to see an ULTIMATE digital transport build in the future!
Wow this sounds like a lot of fun. I would love to do something like this
Thanks for the nice video! I build a prototype of the lampucera 2.0 with the PCM1798 and using the SRPP circuit with 1N16B-V. 2 transformers, one for the digital section and one for the analogue section. All good components but not over the top as this was a prototype. As output capacitors I used Jantzen superior caps.
To cut to the chase although it sounds good it does not really compare with my reference (holo may DAC) especially in terms of ping point accuracy (what I would call time domain information). Yes, the MAY is a strong competitor but nevertheless I was expecting a little better from this DAC, on top of that the removal of the subsonic filter creates a lot of high frequency aliasing that some amplifiers do not tollerate. Looks like from your feedback that the version 1 lampucera sounds better and I am happy for you, unfortunately I did not have the opportunity to listen to it before building it. My aim is to move away from commercial designs for my own interest as my hobby. The DAC is the one that I have not cracked yet. Now I am trying to build the Sygnalist DSC3 but this built is not for the average DIYer. For reference I use a speaker set called the loudspeaker 3 (Troels Gravesen), for amplifiers the solid state 2022 and the hybrid 2023 (see audiodesignguide website). For pre I use a Macintosh but also several DHT designs from bartola (the 01a low gain pre is my latest build).
I just picked up an old Ahh Tjoeb CD player which I believe has an SRPP output. (But still need to check the circuit) it does muddy the high frequencies a little. But gee for listening pleasure and realism it is far superior to a standard op amp DAC output. Main point is possibly SRPP is not the best circuit for pin point accuracy. With its more complex tube stage. But pretty good if not comparing to the best of the best. I've had disappointments with basic home made preamp tube stages. Haven't found what's stopping the magic in those designs yet
ADDITIONAL NOTE: After seeing this video I started wondering why there was such a massive difference in sound between Rev 1 and 2 of this DAC. Was not Rev 2 supposed to be better after all? I went back to the prototype and remove the cathode bypass capacitor as I could not see this installed on some SRPP boards I had pictures of. The sound immediately focused and improved drastically. I still need to compare it properly with the MAY DAC but first impressions are good. without this video I might just have given up!
what are your thoughts on the different bartola DHT preamplifier? Strongly considering one as my next build!
UPDATE 2: after some extended listening without the bypass cap on the cathode resistor the rev2 of this design changed drastically. Compared back and forth with my MAY DAC (using my spectacular 01a pre) and this DAC just sounds fantastic….really impressed now :)
@@CanberraProtest-dm6hu can confirm the same experiece with several self built tube pre-amps. But my over 20yrs old TDA1541 with step up transformers and SRPP tube output still sounds wunderful.
How about You start a new brand called "the Acoustic Reviewer" 😎
miflex caps looks great, and three toroids looks expensive 😅 overall it's your best video in 2023 👍 Thank you.
Great vide. Thanks for getting out of the box and doing something that no other reviewer does. Happy Holidays🎉
Cool project! Would be interesting if you reviewed the musical paradise MP-DX. It is a DAC with a tube output stage were you can change capacitors. :) Also, you can upgrade the clock too!
6N1P is not a direct equivalent to ECC88/6DJ8, in fact it's really not equivalent to anything and is a unique Soviet design. 6N23P is the Soviet equivalent to ECC88. We do a lot of work with the 6N6P and consider it a "super tube", capable of doing an excellent job as a voltage gain amplifier (as in this case), cathode follower (CF stage) and also it can handle enough current at low enough impedance to be considered as an output tube in an OTL amp. But what's really important is it produces a very clean, dynamic, full/rich sound and fits nicely into your "everything over built/over spec" approach to this DIY build. For some reason a lot of people can't stick with a spec'd tube type and insist on trying anything and everything that will plug into the socket. This is the wrong approach unless you can design within the tube domain. A better approach is to take the advice of the designer and plug a 6N6P in, you'll never want to try anything else!
This was for me the most interesting video on DAC´s I have seen. I love to see this amazing inventive work. It seems that less is more. Thanks for uploading all necessary information. Much appreciated.
Imo the inside of your DIY DAC is beautifully laid out and wired. Congratulations!
Build 12, 2 for reviewers and 10 to sell.
Call it Srbodak.
And see what happens....
Just had to comment. The mic you use for your videos is excellent.
Thank you for making us aware of such an interesting build. Being non-technical, I have a friend who is prepared to do the build. A definitive list of parts would be really, really useful!
Fabulous work.
Hello, I know this is late but did your friend did it? I couldn't understand the schematic at all.
This was a lot of fun to watch. Do it yourself kits were once more common. My brother’s first stereo system had a kit built Dynaco integrated amplifier.
I too have recently completed this build using a 12ax7 output stage. It is indeed a truly great sounding dac and a welcome successor to my outgoing Chinese device. Thanks, Srboljube for making us aware of this and well done with your wonderful over-the-top Lampucera!
Hello good sir, can you help me out with this build? I have a hard time understanding the schematics.
@@therealpotato8031 Hi and thanks for making contact. I would be most happy to assist you if I can. What output tube are you planning on using? Which schematic are you having difficulty understanding? Cheers.
Well you sold me on this DAC, I ended up buying the DAC board to build my own version. Going to try a better 5V LPS and Ultracapacitors for the DAC, they made a big difference on my WiiM Pro+.
WoW! Thanks! Just what I've been looking for. Sent for the dac bundle. There was another Lampucera board and power supply using the PCM1798 DAC from a different seller.
2 things you might like to consider. 1 Decouple the valve from the case using rubber mount standoffs. 2 Using chokes in the power supply. I intend to try both. Also intend to try using 2 valves for independent L & R. They often come on matched pairs.
Thanks again.
I use that board with SRPP 6n2p tube excellent sound :)
Amazing work and description. Congrats and thanks for sharing. I realise it's basically an off the shelf Delta-Sigma chip with careful point-to-point tube preamplification! The tuning of the sound comes mainly from the capacitors and tube choice. It comes to show that a preamp is so important. Musical Paradise MP-701 mk2 is a popular preamplifier that reminds me of his analog section (prob. without the gain) in which you can upgrade capacitors and tubes to get the sound that you want.
I own that DAC and it's very good. I just don't understand where the Musical Paradise company is going at the moment.
I would love to do this. I have the basic skills (I replaced the capacitors and resistors to audiophile grade in my Schiit Freya + with great success).
This project is not above my abilities to construct if it was a kit. If I had specific parts for one build, sourcing for the parts and a video perhaps about basic assembly, then I could build this...but with all the scattered info here, multiple choices, extra notes and no firm structure to the presentation, as a beginner I am afraid that I do not have the ability to sort thru all of this information and make appropriate choices to layout a complete plan with sourcing.. This is very frustrating...I can see the candy...but the glass case will not let me touch it. ARRRGGGGHH! 😀😊😊
This sounds like a rewarding project!!!
Same dude, did u manage to somehow build it tho?
I have an old 3D Lab cd300 cd player with CS4327-KS inside. Never heard deeper bass in my life from a dac . That is why i still keep this player up and running .
Easy upgrade then. I just bought an old Ahh Tjoeb modified marantz CD player with a tube output. Brilliant sound. For superior to a standard modern DAC.
I have to check what DAC chip it has
Wow. This video blew me! It would be nice if you did a build vlog for this dac. Im really interested in building one.
Funny that one cheap russian tube won all that digital technology for thousands....
@iiWi Reviews do you think Aune S17 Pro will be a good match for Lampucera ? or better to build DIY amp ?
This is a burning question I have too lol
Thanks for a great video. As A DIY sucker I'd love to do this but unfortunately I am technologically incapacitated. Actually, it sounds like the same philosophy of design as Border Patrol. Tube rectifier and keep it high quality and simple. I have observed Akatika amplifier kits for a while but vision issues precludes me making one of their amp r preamp kits. People seem to love them.
Such a great video to the end of the year! Really well done! Thanks!
You have used two separate buttons to turn on and off the device and you have to pay attention to the order. How about using three-position knob instead? Anybody could operate that and never mess up the order.
I wanted to make it symmetrical visually with all buttons glowing orange but that's a great and fuss free idea.
Sometimes I just like the way he says "Juicy"
I just bought a 24 yesr old Ahh Tjoeb CD player, which is a Marantz CD player modified with an EC88 dual tube output. I had one new years ago but sold it to travel. I had to get it again for personal reference. And wow it's the best digital sound I've had since I sold it 20 years ago. Now I understand how I listened to that CD player for hours a day. Definitely need tubes on a digital output. I almost bought one of the digital kits you talk about years ago. And will do it now to see how much better it can be and compare it to the Tjoeb circuit. Thanks heaps for the video. ❤❤
Ha, I almost forgot about that unit. I owned one back around ‘99 or so, great sound!
@@sean_heisler yes that's when I bought it too. I am surprised it sounds better than I remember. When I sold it it took 3 days before I could pack it up and post because I didn't want to b let it go. 🙃
Looking inside now I am also surprised it doesn't bypass the op amp. It's simply an add on buffer stage.
@@CanberraProtest-dm6hu The tubes do act as a buffer as opposed to an analog/gain output stage. Those opamps can be rolled, I’m sure you know. There’s a good refresher about the modifications in a Stereophile review if you search for it.
@@sean_heisler @sean_heisler I am going to send a signal from my professional hi res Tascam digital recorder into it and see how it goes. There is a little degradation of transient sound through the buffer but adds more life than it takes away. I guess that is what a good pre amp does. I've never has a good pre amp that improved the sound. It never made sense adding more circuitry should degrade it.
I've been waiting for this video for months. We'll worth the wait. Great project. Well done.
The top most interesting video from you by far!
Thanks for sharing your nice video! I believe that you can even improve your project a little. At first, you can remove the caps betwen dac chip and tube grid and connect it directly. As an example old tube sheme like Loftin-White. Yes, Lukasz was wrong about it, you can do it! So, you need just to recalculate catode resistance for +2.5v bias instead 0v at a grid. Of course much Better to use output tubes in most linear point(current/anode voltage) after analizing I/U characteristics which depends on kind of applied tube... And second thing you can do it is se anode output transformers. I have used such solution in several devices like upgraded arcam cdp(wm8940) or aune 5s digital player( ak4490) with self made symmetric transformers 10+10:1+1 on cores 3-5-10 cm2. It works fine Even with small tubes with reassonable Ri like ecc88, ecc82,802, ecc180, 6922, 6n23/24p , 6n3p or excelent (really love it) but very rare 6n26p(possible replacement 6s3p/6s4p or pentodes in triode mode with anode current 10-15mA. But you ned transformers with around 10000 turns in primary to reach inductance over 100- 150H, so specific design for coils necessary. The main features for such solution: simple ultimative great soundung shematic with minimalistic set of component, galvanic separation for output, low output impedance like 600ohm and less. So you can use amplifiers with input resistance 1-10k and significantly improve sound quality. A couple more thing- stabilisators for tube heater and anode power with soft start and capacitors battery 5000+ mkF (of course bypassed by mica/mkp/paper-oil caps...).
From my experience it’s those copper caps. I’ve heard they aren’t all that. Just saying. The caps take too long to break in for too much $$. But honestly I haven’t even been excited about DAC until now. Dude u rock .
They do take too damn long to break in. I now people who wrote them off as sounding muddy because they couldn't wait past the initial bad phase.
Hi - i enjoyed the content so much that i decided to try building a DIY DAC for the first time.
im quite familiar with soldering and whatnot,
however after successfully building similarly to the schematics :
- resistor from 0.47u caps (400k originally -> i used 470k),
- resistor from cathode to ground (300 ohm originally -> i used 330ohm)
- Anode voltage ( electricity in my place is not that good, i got around 115 V AC with the 2x 120v AC transformer)
- using a different dac board (ak4118 + ak4490) with output voltage of around 2.65 V on each left and right
- currently using 6n1p-ev (waiting for 6n6p to arrive)
i encountered an issue where the volume of the dac is super small, and when i try to increase the volume,
it distorts horribly.
may i know if anyone has experienced something similar or know regarding which parts are causing this issue?
im currently going to try to lower the 15k resistor to 2.2k, in order to give more voltage to the anode of the 6n1p
Thanks a lot for sharing any info or ideas XD
Refreshing content video. Great. And thanks
Amazing video. I might have to try this project.😊
what do you think of Hegel hd12 ? if I build this with the ebay kit with toroidal psu upgrade and upgraded caps and upgrade the 2 tubes from the ebay kit will it sound better than the Hegel hd12?
What are you using for clocks in your DAC? Is there an opportunity for further improvement there?
When using SPDIF connection, clock is set by the digital source (streamer) used.
Thank you for this! I was wondering about the parts, process and your personal results with this build. I am not experienced with schematics and electronics assembly, but might see if I can find someone to guide and help me. A very happy new year to you and yours, Srboljub 🙏🏼🎊
Thank you very much for this very interesting video and sharing your personal experience building and listening to this DAC. Of course, many of us will not be able to build such a project and probably, some are wondering how you can approach your DAC with a commercial product.
In my opinion, the closest is the Musical Paradise MP-DX ES9068 / ES9039MSPRO DAC. Even if the chip used here is different (ESS ES9039MSPRO), the spirit is quite similar, with the possibility of changing the output capacitors by yourself and without any solderingvery easily and without difficulty (2,2 uF / 400-600 Volts - Miflex, Jupiter, Duelund ...).
Only two capacitors and two tubes are used with RCA cables, reducing costs. The four capacitors and tubes are however required with balanced XLR cables. It is also possible to vary a large number of tubes used in this DAC. The designer of this product is someone who carefully refines their devices through listening.
After much thought, this is probably the direction I am heading to replace my Denafrips Ares II.
Many thanks again for the quality of your videos and a great new year 2024 to all of you :)