How to pour low slump stiff super strong concrete.
Вставка
- Опубліковано 15 жов 2024
- Today we are pouring concrete for a driveway that will have a heavy back hoe driving on it a lot. we poured it out at a real stiff mix. Around a 4" slump. This concrete had a super plasticizer in it as well. That is a water reducer and will make the concrete even stronger. Its definitely alot harder to pour it out this stiff but if you are looking for a super strong slab that can take abuse like a driveway this will hold up well. I would not try to pour concrete this stiff unless you are an experienced mason. You need to move fast and get it down before it gets even stiffer. Thanks for watching my videos and be sure veto like and subscribe for more great videos.
Bondo 👍
Bondo has taught me more than my college did
Eddy 👍😊👊
Water reducer doesn't lessen the slump, in fact it can actually increase the slump which in return allows the concrete to be more workable or like you said more "plastic". Water reducer allows the slump to be higher rather then adding water to achieve workability, which reduces the strength of the concrete tremendously. When pouring concrete six inches or deeper a vibrator should be used to properly consolidate the concrete. I have to say your project was done very well and the workmanship and method was done very well.
I agree and thanks.
Great video. Love the stiff mix and plasticizer. I think way too many guys water down their concrete and end up with soup that’s not nearly as strong as they think it is.
Nice job! Really like the follow up videos. Most people just show the work and not the after math!!! Thank you 🙏🏻
Im glad you liked it. Thanks for the comment. 👍😊
Plastic is a huge tip! I learned on my first pour lol
Had splatter all over the side of the house. Thanks for explaining
Ya been there done that. LOL 😊
To get rid of the fiber sticking out of the surface, just get a big propane torch like you burn stuff out in the yard with or de ice things, A BIG ONE and simply just pass it across the surface quickly and the fiber will burn away. Don't hold it in one place for long. Don't do it for a few weeks after the initial pour.
Joe that’s an excellent tip thank you buddy. I’ll have to try that. 👍
I'm a new mixer driver, and I must say. I would noting pouting for you. You guys were swift with not too much stopping. Those tools you used sure made things alot quicker lol I appreciate when finishers are ready. New subbie
Very, very good video. The voice over technical detail is great 👍
Thanks I am glad you enjoyed the video. 😊
Have a small concrete flatwork buisness up in Nh.. Was pouring today (a patio 32x25 patio had to buggy it in and pulled the end form as well then a 16x8 shed pad then a 25x4 walkway)
Self mixer truck runs out of concrete with less than a yard left says he will be right back so we can finish patio then pour pad and walkway, dude comes back 3.5 hours later!!!!🤬🤬🤬
Im 25 and these dudes always take advantage.. but i got 500$ on the order atleast 😎
Great crew and workmanship tho keep on pouring my man and stay healthy!
Thanks buddy. That sounds like a pain of a day you had. Been there done that though. LOL
They should have informed you how long it would take to get back there. That would piss me off for sure.
No matter how much you pull that wire up, it's gonna end up right back on the bottom when you walk across it to screed. We use ½ inch rebar on absolute everything. It's alot wider and there's no way to push it back to the bottom once it's pulled up and gets concrete under it. So like you said in the video, if you've ever demoed old concrete, you'll notice the wire is on the very bottom. Chances are, they pulled the wire up while pouring also.
Mesh is pretty useless. Haha.
We also use rebar where we figure it necessary.
Now that's the weirdest concrete truck I ever did see. I do concrete with my dad, your jobs seem so chill in comparison. And he pours so flippin dry, the muckers are always dying. I'd be so happy to pour with concrete at that slump on video every day x.x
P.S. we use foam boards when it's fairly wet, sliders when it's hard, mostly for hard trowel finish
Ya bud no sense in killing yourselves. Lol This concrete was stiff enough. Lol
All the trucks are front loaders from this company except the conveyer one.
Thanks those sliders are a bitch or I’m to fat. Lol 😂
I love my foam boards too 👍
IF you get to use em you will love em, just keep your paws off the chutes!
Definitely good job guys definitely getting a lot of pointers from watching your videos I built a 56x24 car garage and I think if I watch enough of your videos I can figure out how to pour the concrete and do it up I'm retired now retired early because of some health problems but I still tinker remodeling my house and whatnot the great job guys getting good pointers from you how to do a concrete never done it before done everything else but not that
Thanks I'm glad it helped you. Any questions hit me up buddy. 👍
Don't hurt yourself homeowner,concrete is not for the meek,and if u never done before ,you would be idiot fool to try on your own. Get someone ,atleastone guy who knows ,otherwise u will cry,I guarantee it,
@merrellbean7238
So how did it go? We’re you able to get that garage floor poured?
Good job guys and. Thank u. For explaining the techinal stuff for someone who doesn't know much about. It
just catching up on all your videos being a new subscriber. great work as always, well done.
Thanks for the support.
Very professional work and detail.... work like that is hard to come at days..
Thanks I appreciate that comment. 😊😊
If you stick with foam, try duct taping the outsides generously. It'll help out with the fuzzies falling off. Good vid
Love your channel and Concrete with the Hauses for concrete channels you two are very interesting watching your videos
hi u mention plasticizer, znd what geade number mix was it used .... i imagine stamping that mix is asking too much ? great job !! that was nuts... like the hole time its the last sec. of final game
Thanks glad you liked it. The hot sun can make yoiu hussle doing concrete. Lol
I'm not even a concrete guy, i just enjoy watching your videos lol.
I do have 54yds of crete being poured in my barn soon though, so maybe that's why
Awesome Matt. That must be a good size barn. I’ll bet your excited to get it done? You putting radiant heat in the floor?
@@bondobuilt386 2300 sq ft barn but a hefty apron as well 🤙 no radiant floor, I'm doing overhead radiant tube heat..next best thing haha
@@mattcochran2799 Awesome bud that will be a nice size barn. 👍
Nice work. Just got done with 24 yrds front of new house and in a few weeks it's another 20 for the patio. We are looking at 100 degrees for this next pour. 85 for the last one. We'll be starting at 5am to beat the heat.
Ya I can't blame ya that is some warm weather to pour in. 😳
Mr Bondo I saw your videos nice lots of learning
So about the knee pad I hear you use 2” foam of you wrap plastic sheeting and put some tape then you won’t have styrene foam breaking won’t go in to the concrete
Try it might work
Again thanks for putting up videos
About the knee pads, whatever works best for you, nice job. the young fellow back extension stretch made my day. Great work guys Keep Up
This was an awesome tutorial. Thank you for sharing.
Beautiful job! Real professional!!!
Thanks Bob. 😊
The owner has a backhoe. My noncalibrated eye thought he could have cut his driveway to eliminate the drain that will freeze in winter.
The concrete slab In front of the door could have been dug down to keep snow melt out of the house.
Liked you finishing and quality of work.
Nice job guys! I work out of the Syracuse area, you must be pretty local.. noticed you had Mike driving your first truck. Definitely one of the best drivers around.
Hey thanks man. Ya we work around oswego county area. I live in New Haven. I like working with Vitalle. 👍👍
Are you a plumber!!!!!! It showed when you were trowelling it👍👍👍
LOL yup it did. 😂😂
Nice we tried doing something similar to this but the concrete dried up before we can start finishing it. We had to tear it all out about 10 yards worth. The mix company we've been using starting putting fly ash in there mud and it's been acting super strange not letting any cream up.
Oh that sucks. Sorry to hear that. What a pain.
So with water reducer should you put that in all flat surfaces to make it more workable when it’s hot outside?
I use to pour industrial slabs, 100 yards everyday, 100 feet long x 20 feet bays at a time. Pour every other bay, than no forms needed for back slabs. We would back the trucks in, and close forms as drove out. Also had a power screed 20 wide. Not sure why your not using a vibrator to break down that slump. Than when done with slabs, we would pour tilt-up panels on top of slab. Also worked on the largest pour in silicone valley history at that time, 2140 yards. Miss those day.
i love it. going to build my own icf house next year. I love the videos
Awesome 👍👍 If you got any questions just shoot me a message buddy.
Do y'all have inspection on concrete? Here in South Carolina a inspector will take samples then let it dry out then next day or two days he or she will come back to check on it. They do that up north?
Only on commercial work not residential.
Well it's definitely good to hear in New York channel I'm a New Yorker myself and I would love to pick your brain on a failing foundation good suggestions would be great
Thanks from a fellow new yorker
Wee question. Should you brush in the direction of flow of rain water would run or as you said perpendicular to Garage ?
We usually go perpendicular for traction.
One tip for the guy in the green shirt along the house, with the hand broom. Should always broom starting from the form swiping inside.
Thanks 👍
Very nice finish work. Whenever possible I like to include an approach hump at doorways, extend them out about 3ft or so, side to sde the width of the door plus the trim. With just a bit of fall away from the door, it is one more step to ensure that water doesn't stand at a vulnerable spot, seeping back in under the threshold.
Another suggestion is to pin the edges of the porch slab to the foundation with rebar whiskers installed into the foundation about every 2 to 4 feet, the short pins driven into 2" deep holes drilled with a hammer drill. The whiskers stick out about 4-6 inches for the mesh or other rebar to attach to. The reason for this is because many people put pots of plants on their porch or have leaking/overflowing gutters so that excess water flows down into the joint of the porch slab and foundation. As that water softens the underlying bed, the slab can settle over time. Pins help prevent that settling.
But very nice work! Love how well your team works together and enjoys what they're doing and the pride in your quality.
I was loving this untill I saw the power screed.. I started doing concrete in the 80s and still screed everything by hand as I find it more accurate and it scares the young guys lol.. over here in Canada in my area cement plants are limited to four powder trucks a week due to shortages... 👍 loved watching you guys though.
P.s. wrap your foam kneeboards with tuck tape
Thanks We have been hand rodding our slabs lately because I have a guy helping me that is capable 👍 Good tip on the knee boards.
Just make some foam sliders. You won’t slide them, of course.. but one foam for each leg, with some Velcro straps. I learned on knee boards, but came to prefer sliders for flat work. Great job on the driveway.
We use the metal sliders now.
Trying to get my house started this year, I enjoy watching and learning.
Tim that’s gotta be exciting to start your house build. 👍😊
No need for wire mesh and fiberglass mesh. Use one or the other. If you go with wire mesh which is cheaper remember as you go too pull the wire mesh up into the the concrete. I also recommend using rebar to attach the concrete to your foundation or existing concrete if your concrete is on an incline/slope. This will prevent it fr pulling away creating a gape. Also use rebar if you know you'll have sinking issues
@@davidtaylor9336 there are several different types of fiber. This fiber is for plastic shrinkage only and should not be considered as the structural fiber you are referring to. The wire mesh is for structural integrity. Good idea on the rebar into existing concrete to control separation.
Pouring flatwork with curb slump! Looks good!!
Ya it was thick slump. LOL
Looks awesome!! You guys are amazing at what you do!!
Great job, everyone wants to add water to make it easy to work with, but that reduces the strength tremendously! We add air entrainment up North to ease freeze thaw, and it also makes the concrete easier to work with. We typically do 4000 psi with 1/2 rebar due to poor clay soil and frost.
Awesome I’m glad other people do nice work too. We used air in this one as well. I live in upstate New York and we get cold temps and have a good amount of clay soil as well. Thanks. 👍👍
Use a water reducer...it makes it more workable without adding water.
Great job guys.
Thank you 😊
Wouldn't it have been better for the drain to tape it off before pouring? Great idea in the drain - I'm building a house and might just have to put that one in the plans. Thanks for the videos.
Thanks for watching. I think we taped off the drain here. These drains work very well. 😊
@jasonfournier
0 seconds ago
They were taped. I'm just not sure they go anywhere? Usually PVC comes out the side, unless they were connected to an elbow to go down and under the gravel.
That looks like a very LEAN 3500psi mix. Northern Illinois here, we use 4000 in our garages and at least 4500 on driveways. We get about 80 freeze thaw cycles per year here, brutal on the concrete.
We use a water reducer called Pollyheed in this mix. It allows us to pour with much less water. It is a good mix from this company. I was using 4000lbs concrete for years and I believe this is as good or better then the other mix design. We get some nasty freezing here in central New York. I live right near Lake Ontario.
Happy pouring bubba 👍👍
I use 1/2” plywood with a 1” x 2” screw across the top so you have something to grab onto when you move your board and I glue carpet on the board to cushion my knees.
Thanks that's a good knee board I'll bet. 👍👊
Very good work guys. Merica!
Thanks 😊
Just curious why you poured at 4" slump having added the water reducer? Genuinely curious And whats the difference between that funny float and bull float. I have a float like that and the kraft multi twist i thought it was to use like a walking tool but i havent used it yet.
Just curious it's look like you guys broom it while is still little wet that's why some piece of concrete coming off when brooming and curious if you guys don't do the full finishing with mag together with finishing trowel then broom
We mag but no steel on exterior broom finish because it is air entrained we live in freeze thaw area.
@@bondobuilt386 gotta yah.. keep up the hard work guys
@@siaosimanufekai4933 Thanks buddy. 👍😊
Bondo i am trying to master the use of a Fresno do have any good videos of working one or this summer coming up you might make a little more detailed video using one thanks
Hey buddy. We have started using a funny float this year in place of a Fresno for most our outside stuff. I’ll see if I got a video of us using it. 👍
ua-cam.com/video/T2u9GI6r4vM/v-deo.html
Are you specing the gravel size? Doesn't look like the regular 3/4. Nice work from the crew. Oh, demoing concrete with mesh isn't usually a problem, it's always on the bottom (mesh police LOL) It seems you like "strong" ever consider #3 rebar mats instead of the WWM?
noticed when you broom finished the patio, the broom strokes left pits on the surface of the cement. should have cleaned off the bristles after a pass or two or maybe used a higher slump content in the concrete. looks pitted and rough. drive way looks amazing. good job over all.
It was in the shade so it was not as dry as the driveway. Thanks👍👍
@@bondobuilt386 I hate shade areas!
@@anonymousprepper1463 Same here buddy. 👎
@@bondobuilt386 But that broom is ass though! haha when I find my phone i'll post the link for the ones we use.. a much softer bristle and slightly damp and I found it avoids the roll overs a bit when having to broom earlier.
@@anonymousprepper1463 Thanks I would like to see that broom bud.
i really like how its framed...edging after brooming made it pretty & framed it in ...gorgeous
Thank you 😊
Need a cherry picker and a harness or a a boom pole on a tractor to be able to reach in a little further. Holding him by the belt sure is a sign the guys really trust each other. Good team work.
Thanks we do work well together as a team. 👍😊
I just bought a magic screed, with a 12 and 14ft blade. That thing is pretty wild, first time using one. It's going to take some getting used to for sure. Any tips on using one? I noticed it doesn't like a 6 or 7in slump, using Super of course. I'm going to try a 5 on Tuesday.
We use one all the time you will learn to love it. Saves the back for sure.
you prolly dont care at all but does anybody know of a way to log back into an instagram account?
I somehow forgot the login password. I appreciate any tips you can give me.
@Maddox Callum instablaster :)
@Ignacio Mitchell Thanks for your reply. I got to the site through google and Im trying it out now.
Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Ignacio Mitchell it worked and I now got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thanks so much, you really help me out!
When you pull the wire up into the concrete, does it stay put, as you walk over it again screeding the surface? Just wondering.
The aggregate gets under it and holds it up about an inch to two inches up. thats wherer you want it. 👍
Good question Greg 😊
@@bondobuilt386 Wire mesh when walked on like your crew is doing goes right to the bottom of the slap. If you demoed your slab it would be sitting right on the the bottom. There is all sorts of data out there on that.
More important than that is the following - wire mesh is not structural at all, it really only holds the slab together in regards to crack prevention. But, you already have fiber in the mix for that. Given the backhoe comment, what should have been done is to put in an appropriate rebar grid (that is actually structural) on chairs that sits at the correct level in the slab to function effectively. You could do this with virtually no cost difference and provide a better product.
Driveway wire is a waste of time. It may look good but gives no structural strength. Hog wire is more durable.
Wire and fiber mesh is considered "secondary reinforcement" and is not a replacement for rebar,
Great job. Enjoyed the audio as well
What will be the rent for trac buggy? Also will it be useful if we have to do a pole barn concrete floor in tight spaces
Thanks bud. I bought this buggy used got a great deal on it. I think there $250 a day to rent. There great to move concrete in a pole barn but not if there is radiant tubing in there.
@@bondobuilt386 . Thanks. What if there are radiant tubes and we need trac buggy? Will a plywood track help or there is a different solution? I saw how you made the chute with large pipes
@@squeekhobby4571 You could use the chute like I made or get a pump. The concrete place you get it from should have pump guys to hook you up with. Pump is around $1000 extra in my area. Don't use the buggy on tubing.
@@bondobuilt386 : thanks 🙏
Nice work guys.
If you didn't have the power screed would you still use wet pads and pull it off with an aluminum screed or?
yep
Yes same process buddy. 👍
Why not a 8 slump with fiber, micro bubble, and water reducer? Nvm pitched floors you talked about it later in the video thanks.
We are starting to use more concrete with water reducer. Its alot less work. 👍😊
Pure professionals.
Thanks 👍😊
Dont mean to judge but it looks like a really rough broom finish. Try spraying wd40 on the broom to avoid the clumps thats what we use
This is a driveway we wanted it non slip.
To make sure the sliders don't sink in just keep a slow constant movement alternating back and forth. Kneeboards are great when the mud is pretty wet.
How does the wire mesh mesh stay suspended when you have guys stepping on it after concrete is poured? Seems like an exercise in futility.
You can see the worker in the video using a puller too lift the wire up as the concrete is being poured over it.
The mesh really doesn't go down that much once it's lifted & concrete is underneath it.
For example, on a stiff mix like that, if the mesh is pulled up 2" from the bottom grade, stepping on it with concrete covering all underneath, it typically only goes down approx 1/4" and that's only in the spots near direct foot pressure.
You have a long ways to go lots to learn still
Can I watch your video so I can learn the skills it takes? Send me a link to your channel. Thanks.
@@bondobuilt386 First off your the one proclaiming that you know what your doing. If you don’t like criticism then maybe rethink your UA-cam channel. Grade is junk which can be told by the truck sinking about 4”. 3” slump on one half and a 6” slump on the other. Kneeboarding something that should be done with all walking tools(which by the way takes air entrainment out of the concrete). Can you not afford some screeds that are different sizes? Cmon who that is a pro uses a 2by4 to screed with. I have more but that’s just what I remember. Keep up the great form work! Lol
Does a 6x6 mesh work good for you guys? Is it strong enough? Cus i only use rebar.
We have good luck with it and also use bar for some situations. 👍
Why pour so stiff when you add mid range or super P?
For a residential driveway does rebar make a difference for strength over wire mesh?
Rebar is definitely better then wire but cost and installation are a factor as well. Have to be commutative as well.
@@bondobuilt386 thanks for the reply, what do you mean commutative?
@@MrZuto Sorry I mean competitive with the price. LOL
Awesome job great crew everybody team player
You want it to crack in the joints, but you put the wire though them?
Yes you want it to crack but not pull apart. it will crack on the cuts.
A large slab like that will always crack because the earth below moves very slightly. The point is controlling and hiding them in nice looking joints
@@Trildin yes sir thanks 😊
@@Trildin no the small cracks are much more likely from cure shrinkage.
I see u putt some joints in ..for cracking
.usually they are bigger joints butt ok if it works it works from john from Maine
Thanks John. I have a buddy in Maine and I meet him there and ride snowmobiles in the winter. 👍👍
Why would you put microbubbles in the concrete? the microbubbles will fill with water through capillary action and when they freeze in the winter, the ice will expand 1.5x for every -5 degrees centigrade. That will quickly kill the concrete from within, especially since its its only a 21mpa concrete you're pouring.
Nonsense
I think that pad at the door to the house, with vinyl siding on it, should have been extended out from that door about 4 feet more. Reason- that is probably where they are going to set their gas BBQ. If they set it against the House, cooks something lid down, loft his BBQ lid and it is near that siding, it will melt the siding.
Thats the basement door so Should not be down there grilling. 👍
I would imagine if you're using water reducer and your pouring slopes, the reducer sort of tends to make the concrete level itself. So your pouring with a low slump is maybe necessary otherwise you're fighting the tendency of the reducer to make it flow more to level, something you don't want. Anyway, I don't pour concrete for the buildings but just my observation on water reducer when used for architectural concrete, and countertops.
Do all that and yet use next-to-worthless wire mesh? Do it right. Install rebar on dobies/chairs. The mesh almost always ends up near the bottom/on the bottom, making it lose most of it's performance.
I agree lazy
Didn’t wait to here you where add control joints
Subscribed and like 👍.
Up here in Iowa we only run 4000 psi mix, and rebar. I tear out concrete every day, and its 99 % concrete with wire. Very rarely with bar. Bar doesnt go bad like wire. If it works for u great, but I refuse to use it, voids my warranty.Good crew u have , that's hard to find these days
Thanks buddy. I do a bunch of demo myself and there's always one common denominater and thats the sub grade was never done proper. Either full of clay or was not tamped properly and it settled. I put rebar in slabs also where I want extra support. I almose always end up doing the prep work under my slabs because I dont trust it will be done the way it needs to be done.
You got some great deer hunting in Iowa. 👍👍
I want to get out there but it takes forever to get the tags. Thats probably why its so good. LOL
@@bondobuilt386shotgun season starts Saturday.
@@iowamatt2519 Nice. good luck 👍 I got a nice buck in Missouri a couple weeks ago.
@@bondobuilt386 are u out of Missouri?
@@iowamatt2519 no buddy I’m in central New York. I hunt I’m the mid west every year though. You can invite me to your state if you want? Lol 😂
Awesome video! Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching! glad you liked it. 😊
12 years ago...did wire and rebar 2x2 foot grid pea gravel.. Approx.5 inch pour no exp. Joints.. No trees. Still want to cut them.....Still no cracks
Have you ever used super plastciser easy flow
I used some last year but not enough to make it flow real easy. I want to get the plants here to make it for me. Its a work in progress.
@@bondobuilt386 I used it today it's ok not as easy flow as I thought
I did it for 30 plus yrs hang in there
Why not use 4k psi if you wanted it the strongest?. Then add your stuff. Nice job
Doesn't look like the channel drains go anywhere?
Where is your thickened edged on the driveway
I layed sewer water an storm pipe we poured concrete collars around our pipe on the outside of a manhole normally 12 to 16 inches below the pipe an we would use a 2 to 4 slump that shit is a bear put it works cause u can stack it up.
I have a set of sliders it takes a while to get used to but I usually go back to my knee boards ( stroform) iam from Maine so I have to deal with the cold to I work year round there's enough work up here to do that it sucks getting the heater out but better then no heat
I'm from Arizona and you guys do good work, we try to pour early morning or night pours...
Yes I can’t blame ya with the heat you deal with. Thanks. 👍😊
Do you get all your additives from the same company you order the concrete from? We started using retardant and want to start using plasticizer to use as little water as possible
Yes we get it right from the concrete suppler. What retardant do you use? where you get it bud?
Mike Day uses plasticizer all there time. He gets it from Master builders I asked him on here. Thats my next move I been trying too get these plants to design me my own concrete with it in there. Let me know if you figure it out 👍👍
@@bondobuilt386 we get our ready mix with the retardant in it from Cranesville Concrete, I'm not sure what brand of retardant they use, I just tell them how many hours I need, they can go up to about 6 hours. It does seem to make the concrete more workable. I talked to Cranesville today and we're going to try plasticizer for the first time with two hours of retardant for a pour this coming Tuesday in the direct sun. I do want to find my own additives though. I found a company called Fritz Pack that make a bunch of additives. Concrete-texturing.com sells their products. Our Rental Pumps in Farmingdale NY can ship it to us as well. Then Shop.conmatsupply.com also sells some of their products. As we try them out I'll keep you posted!
@@jcflyer6213 Thanks for the info buddy I appreciate that. I want to figure that plasisizer out. Will make poring so much easier. 👍👍
@@jcflyer6213 You may want to talk to your local ready mix supplier. I know me as a supplier I do not allow anything to be added to our trucks on site. The batching system is sequenced and computerized with admix tolerances down to half an ounce, agg and cement weights down to ten pound tolerances trying to maintain quality and consistency of our products to our customers.
@@jasongreene89 everything we add our supplier accounts for, most of the time we get it right from them already mixed in the truck. Thanks though lol
😁 we just use the same concrete company we had Mark is our first driver
Small world 😊😊
I use the plastic knee boards their a little wider and hold up a litter better .
The ones they sell at Lowes? I might try them.
concrete is so good now, slump don't mater as much as it used to. You can increase the slump with plasticizer to make it easier to finish. Plasticizer dose not effect the strength of concrete.
You guys don’t use control/expansion joints?
Yes we cut then in the next day on this one. Sometimes we grove them in. Depends on the job.
I saw that afterwards , when you guys were washing the driveway down...
@@SuperKam1978 yes sir. 👍😊
I want to see more in floor heating systems.
I will see what I can do Jeff
@@bondobuilt386 come to Traverse City Michigan and do my 40x60 barn....you do Great Work 💪
@@jeffreybickel76 thanks but I'm in a tree in Missouri right now for deer then headed to Colorado for elk. I need a break. Lol 😂
@@bondobuilt386 I will be quite....just sold .y place 30 miles East of
Kansas City
Good ole Vitaly concrete. Loaded with fly ash, guaranteed surface flaking and cracking so you have to replace concrete in 2 years to keep them in business.
They can't compete with Hansen concrete
I don't use Vitalle anymore. I tried Hanson and they never could get me trucks for like 2 weeks. I am using a new company called Circle T.
Fortunately stable fly ash is getting hard to come by, at least here in the Midwest. With the rising pricing of cement a lot of ready mix suppliers have gone to using fly ash as a cement replacement to try to keep prices down or by putting quantity over quality. I suggest talking to the sales rep or dispatcher or batch person whichever the case may be from your local supplier. Make sure they know that you want a quality product. Your name is attached to that job. Let them know that you want straight cement bag mixes or no ash PSI mixes. As a ready mix supplier I refuse to put fly ash in ANY exterior concrete.
@@jasongreene89 We use a new company and they do not use fly ash. Thanks for the info and comments. 👍😊
Control joints ??????
36:51 we cut them in with the saw.
no dowels?
Put a splash pad on your Crete buggy like Tom did at Concrete with the Haus
is the water reducer the same as retardant?
No not at all. The water reducer makes the concrete flow better and be more workable with less water. The retardant makes it dry slower.
@@bondobuilt386 so on hot days would it be better to add a water reducer or a retardant?
@@landonmorel3715 You can add both if you want. The retardent will give you more time in the heat and the reducer will make it flow better. Be careful trying water reducer on a hot day. Practice on a cool morning first.
@@bondobuilt386 thanks!
I would have just cut the grade down outside the slab and said fuck those drains. Not at fan (minnesota)
You are a good rod man
Duct tape the top and sides of your knee boards they last way longer