I'm running(a 2013 XC) on Lloydz VM-1 cams with a recent Noemtz Maximus remote tune. I haven't seen a dyno-graph from my bike in many years and of course with the remote tuning there was no dyno used. Anyway, Noe bumped the redline to 6250rpms and I know these cams are more high-rpm oriented. Usually I ride "lower" in the rpms for most situations I feel I have enough power that I don't need to go WOT and rev out. But what you're showing makes perfect sense, I'm going to try out lower-gears with higher revs for situations where I need power. Thanks
Thanks for the detailed response! As you discussed, the process outlined is really for racing, or in similar situations in spirited riding where maximizing acceleration rate.
@@coryackley944 I definitely am not racing my Cross Country... lol But, I ride with spirit, for sure 😎. I mostly run the back roads and twisties... When I come up on slower traffic I want to get around I usually let the torque work from the lower rpms and accelerate that way. I'm going to try adjusting my style to start initiating the pass at over 4k rpms, letting the engine run up to 6k before shifting.
Not to mention that torque to the ground is always higher in a lower gear due to mechanical advantage, so of course you will be faster holding that lower gear as long as possible
I would say not necessarily as long as posssible (I do get your point though), but shift based on highest average hp over the span of the rpm drop between shifts. 1st to 2nd is 1500ish drop 2nd to 3rd is 1200 and 3-4 is around 1000. Based on the best average hp. it could be 1-2 is 7000 and 3-4 is 6600. Thanks for your feedback
I always thought that in the first three gears that shifting based on peak torque is key, and in the upper gears shift based on peak horsepower... (*just something i picked up from word-of-mouth in the pits from years of roadracing on tracks like Daytona etc...)
I'm running(a 2013 XC) on Lloydz VM-1 cams with a recent Noemtz Maximus remote tune. I haven't seen a dyno-graph from my bike in many years and of course with the remote tuning there was no dyno used. Anyway, Noe bumped the redline to 6250rpms and I know these cams are more high-rpm oriented. Usually I ride "lower" in the rpms for most situations I feel I have enough power that I don't need to go WOT and rev out. But what you're showing makes perfect sense, I'm going to try out lower-gears with higher revs for situations where I need power. Thanks
Thanks for the detailed response! As you discussed, the process outlined is really for racing, or in similar situations in spirited riding where maximizing acceleration rate.
@@coryackley944 I definitely am not racing my Cross Country... lol But, I ride with spirit, for sure 😎. I mostly run the back roads and twisties... When I come up on slower traffic I want to get around I usually let the torque work from the lower rpms and accelerate that way. I'm going to try adjusting my style to start initiating the pass at over 4k rpms, letting the engine run up to 6k before shifting.
Very informative and all the way from South Korea! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the comment, the internet shortens the miles lol.
Not to mention that torque to the ground is always higher in a lower gear due to mechanical advantage, so of course you will be faster holding that lower gear as long as possible
I would say not necessarily as long as posssible (I do get your point though), but shift based on highest average hp over the span of the rpm drop between shifts.
1st to 2nd is 1500ish drop
2nd to 3rd is 1200 and 3-4 is around 1000. Based on the best average hp. it could be 1-2 is 7000 and 3-4 is 6600.
Thanks for your feedback
I always thought that in the first three gears that shifting based on peak torque is key, and in the upper gears shift based on peak horsepower... (*just something i picked up from word-of-mouth in the pits from years of roadracing on tracks like Daytona etc...)