Jeep WJ Driveshaft Special - Part 1 - Vortex Garage Ep. 16
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- Опубліковано 27 лют 2016
- PARTS AND TOOL LINKS:
NOTE: Any Amazon links will be through our Amazon Affiliates link - so Vortex Garage may get a small commission from that. However I do want to point out that I only post things I have used, or would use assuming the orignial isn't available, or as an alternate option. I do not currently have any product sponsors or do any product placement - things I link to are things I've bought or would buy if alternatives.
-----PARTS FOR FRONT DOUBLE CARDAN SHAFT:-----
Front U-Joint:
SPICER 5-153X U-Joint / 1310 Series
amzn.to/3S52UVc
NOTE: In the video, I had three of these - one I used in the front driveshaft at the diff side, and the other two for the rear driveshaft. You CAN technically use these in the double cardan joint (as I understand) though I used MOOG 269s instead. I think the large greasefitting on these may interfere so if you use them you'll probably want to get low profile grease fittings or install caps when in use. If you did use them successfully, leave a comment and share if they work with the grease caps they include!
Double-Joint U-Joints:
MOOG 269
amzn.to/4eZTWlE
NOTE: 2 are needed for the cardan joint.
Spicer 211544X Socket Yoke Assembly (1 needed)
amzn.to/3XY95Op
Slinger - DL-SP-1310-1330-1350-SLINGER
Also known as: Spicer 2-86-418 Seal
amzn.to/4bFRVrY
NOTE: The long form part number has been hard to find - it appears in some research that "2-86-418" is the same part.
Strap and Bolts for Joints (Can use originals, but if needed replacement)
MOOG 437-10 Universal Joint Strap Kit for Jeep Grand Cherokee
amzn.to/3XVMGBm
----- PARTS FOR CV FRONT DRIVESHAFT: -----
U-Joint at Diff Side:
SPICER 5-153X U-Joint / 1310 Series (1 needed)
amzn.to/3S52UVc
CV Joint:
Used in Video: Driveshaftparts.com ME807 - it is still in service with many miles on it:
www.driveshaftparts.com/ME807
This appears to be the actual Dana/Spicer Part - but I haven't used it, but it sounds like it is:
www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....
or to find sources to purchase:
www.danaaftermarket.com/spice...
Strap and Bolts for Joints (Can use originals, but if needed replacement)
MOOG 437-10 Universal Joint Strap Kit for Jeep Grand Cherokee
amzn.to/3XVMGBm
----- PARTS FOR REAR UJOINT DRIVESHAFT: -----
U-Joints - (2 needed)
SPICER 5-153X U-Joint / 1310 Series
amzn.to/3S52UVc
Strap and Bolts for Diff Side (Can use original, but if needed replacement)
MOOG 437-10 Universal Joint Strap Kit for Jeep Grand Cherokee
amzn.to/3XVMGBm
----- TOOLS: -----
Banding tool (stlye used in video):
GEARWRENCH CV Joint Boot Clamp Tightening Wrench - 3191D
amzn.to/4bCCHnU
The kit I received used the long bands needing this type of tool.
If you have the crimp bands, you'll want this one:
GEARWRENCH CV Boot Clamp Tool - 3955
amzn.to/3XSSN9D
It's great to have BOTH in the shop. But if you want an alternative, I haven't used these but they seem to have good reviews:
Alt. Toolset with both styles:
ABN CV Joint Ear Clamp Banding Tool & Boot Crimp Pliers 2-Piece Kit
amzn.to/4debhpF
---- Video Description -----
On this episode of Vortex Garage, it's Part 1 of our Jeep WJ Driveshaft Special! In the driveshaft special, we're going to get into the details of the different types of WJ driveshafts you'll find, the pro's and con's of each, tips to upgrade to a double cardan, and more!
In Part one, we also rebuild two front WJ driveshafts - one with an Rzeppa (CV) joint and fixed yoke, and the other with a double cardan joint and fixed yoke.
In Part 2 (coming soon) we will rebuild rear driveshafts from both a 4.0l WJ and a 4.7l WJ, and install all these driveshafts... - Авто та транспорт
Wow this is just the video I needed! My front rezeppa joint finally gave up the ghost haha. Awesome job with the WJ series keep it up! :)
great video, the best I've seen so far on this subject
Such a great video! Helped give me a much better understanding of my WJ drive shaft. Need to rebuild my front cv style shaft. Considering the 4 inch suspension lift..... This video gives me the confidence to try the double cardan swap/install.
Thank you!
Great video, I need to do my front DC driveshaft on my wj. Of course its not as spacious underneath like my tj, but it'll get done. Another awesome job!
Thanks! I recently helped do a front ds on a KJ Liberty and the clearance on the TC side is quite tight, made the WJ clearance seem awesome ;)
Dude, Love your videos!! So much help!! Thank you!!
great to hear and thank you!!
Nice vid! Maybe you could discuss the NV242 (Selec-Trac) swap for the Quadra Trac when it comes to drivelines. My NV242HD requires a 2 inch shorter driveline (29" vs 31") for my 2000 V8 Grand that the Jeep dealers' parts dept has no clue about. Vary rare in option in 2000 if you're familiar. Thanks much for the great vids!
Thanks for the excellent video!!!
Excellent video, thank you!
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed and found it helpful!
Thanks for the detailed information. The best I've seen so far
I just bought an inexpensive 3 jaw puller set just to remove the cv, although Im sure it will come in handy for other things.
VERY much worth the $30. It took about 2 minutes (along with a ball peen to shock the cv) on my 20 year old rust belt driveshaft. I can't imagine how long it would take without it.
Thanks for the suggestion and all the useful info!
By golly I just learned something. Thanks for the video
I’ve had to replace the cv twice inside one year because of those boots. Definitely going to upgrade to the double cardan
This is gold!
Excellent 👍
WOW. Awesome video, you are subbed sir! I have an identical 2004 WJ 4.7 NV247 with 107Kmi that I just purchased. It has no weird noises, but it does have a serious driveline vibe noticeable from 40+ mph. I removed the front driveshaft (double cardan) and about 90% of the vibration was gone - so I took the front driveshaft to a reputable drive shaft rebuilder. After doing a quick hand exercising of the joints and pulling the open caps, he said it was fine. I had him balance it anyway. When I picked it up he said it was an ounce off and I saw where he removed the old weights and tacked on new ones. After installation, the vibration is worse...LOL. Are there any other components to check for the source of the vibration - or should I just go ahead and rebuild the front driveshaft? Thanks for reading this, I sincerely appreciate your response. KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK!!! - Mike
update: I took the front driveshaft out again tonight and road tested it. It is smooth as silk again...no vibes that I can tell. I checked all the front control arm bushings, motor mounts and trans mount with a prybar, they seem fine. truck is 100% stock highway queen (if that helps)
very good video thank you
i replaced everything here is the list
front cv or axle shafts both
both front hubs
rotors brakes pads and calipers
all for upper and lower ball joints
diff fluid and the gears looked great
the transfer case fluid it was black and like water
the steering drag link and the other linkages
so the only thing i did not replace on the front it the drive shaft
i will do this next sunday thank yo for this video it is exactly what the noise sound like not he 2004 grand cherokee 4.0
and it only make noise in 4x4 that is it nothing else
do you think this could be the problem ?
Nice video, i bought a front shaft ZJ to update mine cj7, to turn dana300
Hi I'm in England and the only prop shaft with double cartage is the one from Zj would it fit a wj ? Thank you your videos are great help
it would be cool if you did a NP 242 rebuild and cable adjustment. I put mine in four wheel drive once and it was very difficult to switch gear positions and now in two wheel drive sitting at a traffic light the part-time light will come on and go off during take off.
+Jason Olson Haven't had to do one yet - but certainly will document when/if we do. Thx!
The cv bolts to the axel joint, the other end is a Carden joint..but mine is a 97
Very good video, I'm going to replace my WJ 2002 cv driveshaft too. But have on idea for spec of 3 jaw baring remover which its suitable for this job and others common work on my WJ. Could you pls. advice for this tool.?
Hi I have a 2002 wj and about to fit a double double cardon with a 6.5 inch iro lift. I currently have the repezza to repezza front shaft. I'm aware I need to change the yolks but as you mentioned it's not as easy as a straight swap on the front diff side. Do you have any suggestions as to how to do this or am I best to take it to a diff specialist. Many thanks in advance.
My 97 ZJ has a double cardan at the tcase and a Rzeppa at the front drive shaft.
Can u still do the swap from a rzeppa to the double cardan if you have a 247 transfer case
I don't know if you do this or not, but after you bend and secure the stainless bands. I take a sharp center punch and place it directly over the sleeve it slides through and drive a holding punch mark through all the layers and at the end you cut as an additional security measure. I feel (please tell me if you think i am wrong) that by doing so it gives the layers a place to hold each other together nicely and avoid the edge from snagging and pulling it out of the ears. As i had a walmart bag snag on the end going down the freeway and the plastic bag managed to straighten the band out and it slid apart at 70mph.
I can see that as helpful for sure. I tapped mine down a bit to kind of crimp it, so yeah, I think you are right any extra security there would be good
Put the clamp on facing the other way
I have a v8 wj with the rezeppa can i put my old 4 liters zj double cardan shaft if they both have 242 t case ?
You're supposed to press the cups in until they just clear the clip grove. If you go too far in you end up with the ends of the center section binding on its end with the cup. The solution to fix that is to use a drift and tap on the center section to push the cup back out a tad to free up the bind. If you don't fix this the cup will make metal and the joint will fail early and even vibrate.
41:33 i have a problem with this gasket. It is to loose. Can I use some glue to keep this together?
I have a 2003 WJ with the 4.0L engine with selectable 2W, All Wheel, and 4WD, 197k miles. I have a clunk and a significant lurch when shifting from park to drive, park to reverse, and reverse to drive. After inspecting both driveshafts, I can rotate both back and forth by hand a bit (about 15 or 20 degrees) when the vehicle is in park and almost replicate the clunk. Should the driveshafts have any play like this? Should I be concerned with the safety of the vehicle with this movement? I figure replacing the U joints and rebuilding the CV joint would be a good start anyways, but I am worried about other problems or damaged components I might run into that the old U joints may have caused. What should I look for during the driveshaft removal so I can prepare to fix this issue properly?
My CV only had 1 gasket at the front. Also, I thought you weren't supposed to grease the U-joint caps?
Can i use two vc joint in the same cardan? Is it possible to be used without any risk of brake?
I want some of those 5100 shocks.
thanks good video
Don't ever rebuild a Rzeppa joint. For the same price or less you can get a DC shaft from a junk yard. Having your Rzeppa joint fail is a gift from gob because now you have an excuse to upgrade. Also, any DC shaft from a ZJ will work on any WJ with a lift up to 3 inches. after 3 inches you will have to get a longer shaft or do a TC drop (tho you should be dropping your TC anyway after 3")
Hi, thanks for the vids, they're very informative! Question: What ball joint removal kit are you using? I need to rebuild my double cardan, and am in the market for one.
Thanks!
Anthony Weed Sorry for slow reply here, but believe my kit is the ATD tool 8697 available on Amazon
Diesel export WJ's has rzeppas in both ends of both driveshafts. No U-joints anywhere.
Do you have a parts list?
What is the part number for the ball and spring assembly(double cardan)
, i only found a replacement ball and spring not the entire assembly that you used here.
Awesome video, thanks!
Is there an easy way to know what length driveshaft you need? For example, some people say you can not run a WJ 4.7L driveshaft on more than 2.5" lift. I understand that its shorter, but what is the way to measure the needed minimum length.
Thanks!
I would contact a driveline shop for measuring recommendations.
Most measure from weld to weld, just google it there’s a lot out there
Great and informative video. Thanks for taking the time to share and help others.
Question for you: I have a 99 Grand Cherokee with a CV-CV front driveshaft that I'm rebuilding now (on the floor behind me as I type). I prefer to convert both yokes to u-joint style and change the driveshaft to u-joints as well; however, even though double-cardan is preferred - couldn't I run a driveshaft with single u-joints on both ends?
I'm not engineering genius, but it would seem that a double-cardan front driveshaft with adapters needed to mate up to the CV style yokes would vibrate more than if that same double-cardan driveshaft instead bolted to u-joint style yokes which tucks the spinning mass/knuckles closer to solid housings. With true ujoint yokes, any ujoint (double cardan included) could therefore bolt directly to the yokes as close to the transfer case and axles as possible. The spinning mass of the driveshaft would then be closer. As stated above, my interest is to run a single ujoint at both ends of my front driveshaft if it's possible. My rear driveshaft is like this; it's not a double-cardan.
Suspension Config:
+2 inch springs
1-inch transfer case drop and a 1-inch spacer at the rear control arm; both to reduce driveshaft angle by one inch. Running a 2.5 inch life now; the driveshaft should only be seeing a 1.5 inch lift due to this.
CV yoke at the Dana 30 axle, and CV yoke at the transfer case
** In the past I've ran a Tom Woods double-cardan driveshaft but the WJ was plagued with vibration over 60 MPH so the driveshaft was pulled off and let sit in a garage.
I'm wanting to avoid vibration. The yokes and assembly have been checked and are good; this is driveshaft problem.
JT I feel like you'd want to convert the yokes to a ujoint yoke on diff and tc ends. the single cardan/double cardan offers more flex movement for smoothness on angles than a single/single would. and. you'd want the yokes to match the design with no adapters to limit variables that may impact vibration
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@Brandon Augustus instablaster :)
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I have WJ I6 w selectrac 242, w repezza joint only at TC, the video is great but missing one thing. Can any one verify if the stock yoke from v8 WJ w DC and NP247 quadrajunk, does it have same spline and length to b a direct bolt up on the NP 242 selectrac TC since I need to change that to get the DC,.also does the zj V8 DC shaft the one to get bc it has longer slip yoke,or is the wj v8 DC a dirct bolt up if that yoke at the TC fits, and u have u joint at pinion. I'm trying to use all factory parts not trying to order a yoke from DS shop. Any response would b much appreciated.
Gabe Mundo same spline count. I just swapped a242wj TC into my wj with the 247TC. The 242wj had a rzeppa front DS, and my 247 came from the factory with the DC DS. Swapped right over.
We’re can I find the slinger
What part number is the slinger and Y yoke? I've been looking to rebuild my double Cardin drive shaft for my 2001 Grand Cherokee and I can't find those two pieces.
Me either, I've looked at every local parts house and they say the parts arnt available
Whats behind the other boot at 18:00? Dont you change parts in there or regrease anything in there?
i think it is a telescoping section so the driveshaft can stretch in length slightly when the axle lowers down from the normal ride height it is greased and booted already and appears he has already done it not to long ago.
What were the part numbers? Watched the whole video and didn't see em.
Hay i have a 02 ford ranger with a lift with a dubbul cardun im getting vibration at 45 mph you think its the U joints it's on the front when I take the driveshaft off all vibrations go away thanks by the way it's a super lift
Notice that uni joints are in phase on double cardan drive shaft if your spine is out by 1 it will vibrate
Hi Vortex
Great Video's. I cannot find part 2 of the Driveshaft Special....?
Catching up, and just wrapped it up. It's uploading, but will take some time - should be posted tomorrow!
Thanks, really helpful clip
Why would you fix an inferior design and part. Swap,shafts and be done. Still a nice detailed job!
Anyone know the torque specs for the front drive shaft yoke bolts???
I need to know if the ds from the v8 with the dc joint will fit in my i6 they are both 2002. I also need to know if the yolk from the v8 with the dc joint will fit my 242.
They front drive shaft from the V8 should work., as long as your Jeep has the proper yokes. If your Jeep has the repezza yokes, you will need to switch yokes. I believe the lengths of the FRONT dc driveshafts are the same for both i6 and V8's. The transfer case yoke should work for the 242. If you end up having to switch your front transfer case yoke, might as well throw a new seal in there too while the yoke is off.
I
+Catlin Thomas cool thanks
I have a 4.0L with 242 front prop shaft is double cv joint. I have all the bolts out but cant seem to get the drive shaft out. Is there a trick or just a bfh or what?
I took a 3/16 punch and came through one of the holes on the backside (not the screw holes) two strikes opened enough gap to use a flathead to pry it off.... hope this helps someone else
closed captions keeps saying "CB" and "CD" for CV
I have a ZJ 5.2 L V8 4x4 nice car
Quick question, I have an 01 Wj Double Cardon. I have a 2 1/2 in lift currently no issues/vibrations/tested well on trails. From what ive gathered, for my 6 1/2 in lift from iron rock auto, I can keep my driveshaft and it will be fine. What is your opinion? A response would be greatly appricated... Thanks!!
Ajay Preach I think so with the double cardan. Im wondering if the iro lift has a transfer case drop in it to help ds angle? Either way prob not a bad idea to call them to verify but I would think your in better shape already having the double cardan unit
They do have spacers that come with the kit for the TC. I forgot to mention that.
Ajay Preach Cool! That should definitely help keep things good
Thanks for your quick responses brother! Take care. Ill comment back after the build you can watch the vid if you like!
Ajay Preach Definitely! looking forward to checking it out! good luck on your build!
Question i have a V6 WJ 2001. not sure of the Gear Ratio yet.. but anyways i'm buying a 2 Inch lift kit from Rough Country will this Damage my Driveshaft at all? Thanks!
It may lower the lifespan of the rzeppa joints if equipped. But would be worse if the lift were higher than 2"
+Vortex Garage I have a '99 WJ Limited 4.7L with 183k and after putting new OME "2" inch springs the pinion side joint started humming badly. Removed the driveshaft and the humming went away. Will the new Rzeppa's last at all or should I just go ahead and convert to DC/U-joint?
+Vim Njicki Not entirely sure, to be honest. I have heard with 2" of lift the rzeppa is usable but wont last as long. Just don't know how long without checking some forums out...
+Vim Njicki I had a 2" on my WJ and it ate through the rezeppa bearings... I went through 2 rezeppa bearings in about a 14 month period. The double-cardan driveshaft would be the best way to go if you intent to keep the 2" lift or install a bigger lift.
The gear ratio should be stamped on a metal tag on the differential cover, along with the recommend gear oil. One on the front diff cover and one on the rear diff cover... These goes missing very frequently. But if/when you do the next gear oil change, the gear ratio should be physically stamped somewhere on the carrier of each diff. If you need more help, check out wjjeeps.com, they will most definitely have it there!
Great video but you missed one step should have pulled the boot off regreased the splines and put it back together.
hi iam from to venezuela . I need information about u joint rear to my jeep grand cherokee wj. its broken. I need your help. thank you.
Hi - the WJ Jeep uses a 1310 style ujoint in the rear. very common size. I would ask your parts depot for a 1310 style ujoint. I think the Spicer brand ones I used are part # 5135x, and ones from moog are part number 269. going off memory here :)
Also check out the video on doing Mountaineer Ujoints. They are very much the same process, but the wj has differenr yokes, a slip yoke that pulls out of the transfer case and a cardan style yoke on the differetia like both front shafts in this video you are commenting on. hope this helps! If not checkout jeepforum.com
This one time at band clamp...
where I can send you a picture? I want to show you the broken part!
best place is jeepforum.com
Technically both are cv joints. The double cardin is just a better one. And didn't the wj start in '99? Hmm.
Can you link to the cv kit you used in the video? Trying to find a good brand.
This is the one I used: www.driveshaftparts.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=978&search=me807
+Vortex Garage
Thanks! I looked at that, but it just seemed too cheap to be any good. But I also didnt want to shell out $120 for a Crown if it's only temporary until my lift. I think I will give this one a shot.
+Kelli Loveland The cv itself felt tight with no binding and looked like good quality - I was happy with it. I did a KJ Liberty with a Dorman kit and wasn't impressed plus the Dorman kit was twice as much. The person who has the WJ we did the me807 kit on has a few thousand miles on it so far and no issues yet.
+Vortex Garage Good to hear. I should have it in a day or so. The Dorman got pretty bad reviews on Amazon.
+Vortex Garage Just got my kit today and it only has one gasket. Which is also pictured on the website. Hopefully that means the new kit only needs the one gasket up front! I guess I will find out...
Buon giorno
Complimenti per il video vorrei sapere come si chiama o se a un codice l,estrattore che usa per sfilare le crocette perché non l ho trovo per acquistarlo grazie
Where are u now Mr.Vortex u coming back?
yep! I have a Spitfire resto update coming and a few more Jeep vids to edit and post. :)
I love u XD nice work lovin the channel
+jim kapass Awesome, thanks! Appreciate the feedback and looking forward to posting some updates!
"98 wj"😂😂🤦♂️
HELP. HELP PLEASE
Good info, except you are wrong about strength. The CV joint can take a higher torque load. It's a stronger engineered design.
dreadful background music
Skip the intro...gay waste of time