Great patience and very thorough! You're just the man I've been looking for. Certainly not something I can do on my own but it's nice to know that there are ways to diagnose the electrical systems in my truck. I have a 2013 Dodge ram and the dash keeps flickering on and off random lights and chimes that drives me crazy. What are the chances you're in Georgia, lol. Even at the Dodge dealership they wouldn't take the time to actually find the problem. Great work my friend!
That was a strange one Phillip! I saw Bernie Thompson use the technique of powering down the modules by pulling the fuse instead of disconnecting to save some time when checking can bus for problematic modules online, I'm sure it'll have it's pitfalls cheers sandy
Thats a good idea, I might try that for some of the hard to access controllers but I believe the only way to be sure is to disconnect the suspect controller. Very time consuming accessing them. What gets me on this vehicle is what is the source of the network bias voltage on this circuit. Dhould be 2.5 volts biased on both wires. I had every module unplugged (that I could find) on that circuit and still had a voltage on one or both wires. Pulled every fuse one at a time and no change. I'm going to try a TIPM but I believe the HVAC control may be bad as well.
@@PhillipBailey hi Phillip that funny looking waveform u got like a sawtooth I've seen something similar coming from the airbag module with seat connection unplugged, also the signal can look weird with a terminating resistor down cheers sandy
PHILLIP, you are AWESOME really fun to watch and learn from ya and by the way did u check the terminating resistor i thing one is in TIPM and The other is in PCM/ECM thanks for sharing and be safe.
I did some more research into this can system. Ill be doing a followup video when I replace the TIPM and fix the wiring. Turns out the Can C between the ECM, TCM and ABS is high speed can but the other Cab B bus with the problem is a medium speed bus and the signals are very different. Shouldn't even be called Can in my opinion. Every other car I've worked on with Can bus was the same so that through me off. Stay tuned for part 2...
On the note of measuring the termination resistance you can do that on the Can C network but have to backpin the TIPM. I'm pretty sure one resistor is in the TIPM and the other is in the ECM. You cannot measure the resistance of the Can B circuit according to Chrysler since when battery power is removed the nodes or modules go open making measurement impossible. Another reason it should not be called Can...
Phillip, I have a similar issue on a 2010 ram and at first I had no electronics but the truck would start and run then it fixed itself, 2 days later I have all electronics but no crank no start, and when I popped the hood I smelled something like burnt electrical smell coming from under the fuse box besides the battery I've done nothing aftermarket do you have any suggestions? Besides getting rid of my dodge ... It's my best truck at the moment.....
Well there are lots of possibilities for your problem so without a network scan and lab scope testing of the various can bus circuits its going to be nearly impossible to diagnose and fix. Unfortunately you can't just swap used controllers to "try" fixing it as that will cause the same condition due to security locking you out. Other than a visual inspection of the wiring under the TIPM (fuse box) and checking that connector under the dash there is not much you can do. Cycle the connectors and disconnect and reconnect the battery. Good luck.
I’m having the same problem with my 08 ram no crank no start . I replaced the starter and it worked and I took it for a drive but the next day it stopped working again with no crank and no start .
You need to perform a network scan of all controllers. There are dozens of things that can cause a no crank condition. even a defective new starter. Are you getting power to the S terminal at the starter when it is supposed to be cranking. Obviously batter cable connections should be verified as well. If no power to the S terminal need to scan for codes and note the status of the crank request pid, neutral switch pid etc. Good luck.
In this case it was a bad module and a wiring problem. Replacing the whole wire harness is completely out of the question. Even if you could buy it there are multiple harnesses and it would cost more than the truck is worth.
That's impossible to answer. Honestly network issues are the most difficult to diagnose depending on the nature of the failure. You may end up removing components to get at modules just for testing. I had over 5 hours on this one. Searching for case histories helps narrow down the possibilities but there is no guarantee that your truck will have the same problem even though the symptoms are the same or similar. Good luck...
Having a similar issue. 07 ram 4.7. Intermittent no crank and it seems like its only when its cold out which is odd. I live in florida so when its 50 degrees in the morning it wont start. But when its 70 it will like nothing happened. When it doesnt start theres no power to the signal wire to the starter. Ive replaced the ignition switch and hasnt helped
Have you done a network scan of all controllers? Start with that and see if there are any U codes for communication between modules. Any codes related to security can prevent it from cranking as can codes related to the starter control circuit and transmission range sensor... Good luck.
Were you able to fix your truck. I’m having this same issue with my 2006 Dodge 1500 4.7 2WD. Every morning when I attempt to start the truck I get an intermittent no crank and all the gears flash up , on the second attempt it will start and from then on the truck will start like nothing is wrong this happens on warm weather, now whenever is cold like 40 degrees and under I have to key it like 10 to 15 times to be able to start it.
I typically use a subscription service called Identifix but as far as I know they only service repair shops or sell access to all systems. Check out Alldatadiy.com for information. I believe they cater to owners or diy techs on an individual vehicle basis.
@@JamesValentineBaja1000 thanks bro. I found out the hard way. I don’t do this as a job to give a reason to pay for them, but I appreciate your input man. Have a good one
Did you have the cylinder heads off or did you replace the springs on the engine? What's missing? Spark, compression, fuel delivery? Any codes in the PCM?
@@PhillipBailey I just replaced the springs with the cylinder head still on I've replaced the ECU I'm getting absolutely no spark from the spark plug it will crank but we're not fire up and there's a thunderbolt on the dashboard and I'm getting fuel delivering
@Captobvious23 so no spark on any coil? Do you have power to the coils while cranking? When you say you have fuel delivery do you just mean fuel pressure to the rail or do you have injector pulse? Watching data on the scanner while cranking do you have a cam and crank signal and sync yes signal? Codes?
@@PhillipBailey I have no spark at the coils and I'll check the data tomorrow and I also plan on checking the camshaft position sensor and crankshaft even though they're new
The nature of the interior Can Bus is that one circuit can fail completely and the vehicle will still start and run. if both fail your dead in the water.
Is the remote start Factory installed? If it is and starts with the remote control I'd be leaning towards a security issue with the ignition key. Are you using an ignition key with the transponder in it? (Plastic head of tge key should be gray). Otherwise it might be a failed ignition switch but you need to scan for codes in all controllers first. HTH
Hello, how is everything ? My name is Samuel, I speak from Brazil. Would you have any kind of contact to clarify a doubt? Or just here for the comments?
@@PhillipBailey Thanks for listening! I would like to ask a question and would appreciate your help! We are an adaptation of a Dodge engine in a Ford F250, we only take the engine, the harness, the module and the immobilizer registered in the module, but the engine does not work. Some people say that I need other items from the original Dodge car like fuse box, abs module, dashboard, radio, etc. Is there any way to run the engine with just the engine, harness, immobilizer and module?
@@samuelferreiradossantos8311 that's a pretty vague question. What do you mean by doesn't work? Won't crank, cranks no start, no spark, no injector pulse, no fuel pressure? Can you scan it? Are there codes, security, do you have power and ground to the pcm. Without know what's missing or not working its impossible to say whats wrong. What ever possessed you to tackle this mess?
@@PhillipBailey Hi Phillip, I just forgot to mention the engine, it's a Dodge RAM 6CC Cummins Diesel 5.9L engine, we're adapting it to a Ford F250 pickup truck. The exchange is manual and has already been reprogrammed to manual. We are not getting the connection between the Immobilizer and the module. Is there this possibility of running the engine only with the engine, immobilizer, harness and module?
There were multiple problems...1 the Can B negative wire corroded off the TIPM 2 the Can B positive circuit was oxidized at the connector under the dash and I incorrect assumed the Can B signal voltages and Can C signal voltages should look the same and they don't. The Can B circuits should not be called Can circuits since they have nothing in common with actual Can circuits. IMO...
Great guy I have a sawall cutting torch and near by junk yard think that's were my 2008 is going after I cut out all my frustrated got to love computer junk (kiss) lol.
Well there are lots of possibilities to cause a no crank condition so simply putting a computer in it is not a good idea without proper diagnosis. Which computer did you put in it? A computer with a different vin number will likely cause a security issue and will cause a no start as well. Start by putting it back to original, do a network scan of ALL controllers as you will need a decent scan tool. Once you know you have communication with the necessary modules or not and whether you have codes in them is the start. Good luck.
There are professional on line sources. I use Identifix but there is a DIY version from Alldata. www.alldata.com/diy/en/advanced-automotive-diy You pay for access like purchasing a manual. Very reasonable in my opinion. I pay $160.00/month for Identifix.
Great patience and very thorough! You're just the man I've been looking for. Certainly not something I can do on my own but it's nice to know that there are ways to diagnose the electrical systems in my truck. I have a 2013 Dodge ram and the dash keeps flickering on and off random lights and chimes that drives me crazy. What are the chances you're in Georgia, lol. Even at the Dodge dealership they wouldn't take the time to actually find the problem. Great work my friend!
Excellent video. Thank you for being so thorough and walking us through the process.
I realize I'm kind of randomly asking but does anybody know of a good place to stream new tv shows online ?
That was a strange one Phillip! I saw Bernie Thompson use the technique of powering down the modules by pulling the fuse instead of disconnecting to save some time when checking can bus for problematic modules online, I'm sure it'll have it's pitfalls cheers sandy
Thats a good idea, I might try that for some of the hard to access controllers but I believe the only way to be sure is to disconnect the suspect controller. Very time consuming accessing them. What gets me on this vehicle is what is the source of the network bias voltage on this circuit. Dhould be 2.5 volts biased on both wires. I had every module unplugged (that I could find) on that circuit and still had a voltage on one or both wires. Pulled every fuse one at a time and no change. I'm going to try a TIPM but I believe the HVAC control may be bad as well.
@@PhillipBailey hi Phillip that funny looking waveform u got like a sawtooth I've seen something similar coming from the airbag module with seat connection unplugged, also the signal can look weird with a terminating resistor down cheers sandy
😂Thanks
Did you make part 2 😢😅
Very informative on diagnosing issues
PHILLIP, you are AWESOME really fun to watch and learn from ya and by the way did u check the terminating resistor i thing one is in TIPM and The other is in PCM/ECM thanks for sharing and be safe.
I did some more research into this can system. Ill be doing a followup video when I replace the TIPM and fix the wiring. Turns out the Can C between the ECM, TCM and ABS is high speed can but the other Cab B bus with the problem is a medium speed bus and the signals are very different. Shouldn't even be called Can in my opinion. Every other car I've worked on with Can bus was the same so that through me off. Stay tuned for part 2...
@@PhillipBailey Very interested in part 2!
@@Jhutterer here's part 2...ua-cam.com/video/GrFy1ltEypU/v-deo.html
On the note of measuring the termination resistance you can do that on the Can C network but have to backpin the TIPM. I'm pretty sure one resistor is in the TIPM and the other is in the ECM. You cannot measure the resistance of the Can B circuit according to Chrysler since when battery power is removed the nodes or modules go open making measurement impossible. Another reason it should not be called Can...
Phillip, I have a similar issue on a 2010 ram and at first I had no electronics but the truck would start and run then it fixed itself, 2 days later I have all electronics but no crank no start, and when I popped the hood I smelled something like burnt electrical smell coming from under the fuse box besides the battery I've done nothing aftermarket do you have any suggestions? Besides getting rid of my dodge ... It's my best truck at the moment.....
Well there are lots of possibilities for your problem so without a network scan and lab scope testing of the various can bus circuits its going to be nearly impossible to diagnose and fix. Unfortunately you can't just swap used controllers to "try" fixing it as that will cause the same condition due to security locking you out. Other than a visual inspection of the wiring under the TIPM (fuse box) and checking that connector under the dash there is not much you can do. Cycle the connectors and disconnect and reconnect the battery. Good luck.
Hello, please how can I get the software you're using to view the service manual
Try Alldatadiy.com. it's very reasonable in my opinion
I’m having the same problem with my 08 ram no crank no start . I replaced the starter and it worked and I took it for a drive but the next day it stopped working again with no crank and no start .
You need to perform a network scan of all controllers. There are dozens of things that can cause a no crank condition. even a defective new starter. Are you getting power to the S terminal at the starter when it is supposed to be cranking. Obviously batter cable connections should be verified as well. If no power to the S terminal need to scan for codes and note the status of the crank request pid, neutral switch pid etc. Good luck.
Would replacing the whole wire harness to the vehicle fix the problems or could it be bad modules causing the problem ......??????
In this case it was a bad module and a wiring problem. Replacing the whole wire harness is completely out of the question. Even if you could buy it there are multiple harnesses and it would cost more than the truck is worth.
Great vidio sir god bless I have same problem we my 07 Dodge Ram diesel around 2 years I one to fix thx all light on
Great vidio sir god bless I have seamen problem we my 07 dodge around 2 years i I not fix yeah
I hope that customer is being charged accordingly.
Great great work thanks man
About how much does a job like cost. I'm taking my truck to someone that has the same problem. Want to make sure they don't over charge me
That's impossible to answer. Honestly network issues are the most difficult to diagnose depending on the nature of the failure. You may end up removing components to get at modules just for testing. I had over 5 hours on this one. Searching for case histories helps narrow down the possibilities but there is no guarantee that your truck will have the same problem even though the symptoms are the same or similar. Good luck...
@@PhillipBailey thanks
Having a similar issue. 07 ram 4.7. Intermittent no crank and it seems like its only when its cold out which is odd. I live in florida so when its 50 degrees in the morning it wont start. But when its 70 it will like nothing happened. When it doesnt start theres no power to the signal wire to the starter. Ive replaced the ignition switch and hasnt helped
Have you done a network scan of all controllers? Start with that and see if there are any U codes for communication between modules. Any codes related to security can prevent it from cranking as can codes related to the starter control circuit and transmission range sensor... Good luck.
Were you able to fix your truck. I’m having this same issue with my 2006 Dodge 1500 4.7 2WD. Every morning when I attempt to start the truck I get an intermittent no crank and all the gears flash up , on the second attempt it will start and from then on the truck will start like nothing is wrong this happens on warm weather, now whenever is cold like 40 degrees and under I have to key it like 10 to 15 times to be able to start it.
Where do you get all your diagrams!? Great job. I’m working on a similar one
I typically use a subscription service called Identifix but as far as I know they only service repair shops or sell access to all systems. Check out Alldatadiy.com for information. I believe they cater to owners or diy techs on an individual vehicle basis.
@@PhillipBailey thank you Phillip.
We pay for them
@@JamesValentineBaja1000 thanks bro. I found out the hard way. I don’t do this as a job to give a reason to pay for them, but I appreciate your input man. Have a good one
Does the CHARGER RT 07 have CAN bus ? Thank you
Yes it would. Everything from 07 on does.
Thank you Phil. Would you happen to know where the star connector is located on my car ? @@PhillipBailey
@soufianDEMOS off the top of my head no I dont and there are likely more than one. I'd recommend Alldatadiy.com for wiring diagrams and information
Hi i have 2004 dodge ram 1500 hemi cranks no start after replacing valve springs
Did you have the cylinder heads off or did you replace the springs on the engine? What's missing? Spark, compression, fuel delivery? Any codes in the PCM?
@@PhillipBailey I just replaced the springs with the cylinder head still on I've replaced the ECU I'm getting absolutely no spark from the spark plug it will crank but we're not fire up and there's a thunderbolt on the dashboard and I'm getting fuel delivering
@Captobvious23 so no spark on any coil? Do you have power to the coils while cranking? When you say you have fuel delivery do you just mean fuel pressure to the rail or do you have injector pulse? Watching data on the scanner while cranking do you have a cam and crank signal and sync yes signal? Codes?
@@PhillipBailey I have no spark at the coils and I'll check the data tomorrow and I also plan on checking the camshaft position sensor and crankshaft even though they're new
I shudder to think how much this cost lol . I have a 07 Durango starts and runs but do have a codes U1110 and U0141.
The nature of the interior Can Bus is that one circuit can fail completely and the vehicle will still start and run. if both fail your dead in the water.
@@PhillipBailey very scary, thanks for the info!
I have a 08 ram 5.7 n it has no crank but i can start it from the remote
What could be the problem?
Is the remote start Factory installed? If it is and starts with the remote control I'd be leaning towards a security issue with the ignition key. Are you using an ignition key with the transponder in it? (Plastic head of tge key should be gray). Otherwise it might be a failed ignition switch but you need to scan for codes in all controllers first. HTH
your key has the transponder in it if it has the keyless remote built in as well.
Hello, how is everything ? My name is Samuel, I speak from Brazil. Would you have any kind of contact to clarify a doubt? Or just here for the comments?
Hello Samuel what's up?
@@PhillipBailey Thanks for listening! I would like to ask a question and would appreciate your help!
We are an adaptation of a Dodge engine in a Ford F250, we only take the engine, the harness, the module and the immobilizer registered in the module, but the engine does not work.
Some people say that I need other items from the original Dodge car like fuse box, abs module, dashboard, radio, etc.
Is there any way to run the engine with just the engine, harness, immobilizer and module?
@@samuelferreiradossantos8311 that's a pretty vague question. What do you mean by doesn't work? Won't crank, cranks no start, no spark, no injector pulse, no fuel pressure? Can you scan it? Are there codes, security, do you have power and ground to the pcm. Without know what's missing or not working its impossible to say whats wrong. What ever possessed you to tackle this mess?
@@samuelferreiradossantos8311 what years are these two trucks? Gasoline or diesel engines? Automatic or standards? Need more information
@@PhillipBailey Hi Phillip, I just forgot to mention the engine, it's a Dodge RAM 6CC Cummins Diesel 5.9L engine, we're adapting it to a Ford F250 pickup truck. The exchange is manual and has already been reprogrammed to manual. We are not getting the connection between the Immobilizer and the module. Is there this possibility of running the engine only with the engine, immobilizer, harness and module?
So what was the re a problem
There were multiple problems...1 the Can B negative wire corroded off the TIPM 2 the Can B positive circuit was oxidized at the connector under the dash and I incorrect assumed the Can B signal voltages and Can C signal voltages should look the same and they don't. The Can B circuits should not be called Can circuits since they have nothing in common with actual Can circuits. IMO...
What a nightmare
Great guy I have a sawall cutting torch and near by junk yard think that's were my 2008 is going after I cut out all my frustrated got to love computer junk (kiss) lol.
I have the same issues with my ram I put a use computer from ebay and now did that same
Well there are lots of possibilities to cause a no crank condition so simply putting a computer in it is not a good idea without proper diagnosis. Which computer did you put in it? A computer with a different vin number will likely cause a security issue and will cause a no start as well. Start by putting it back to original, do a network scan of ALL controllers as you will need a decent scan tool. Once you know you have communication with the necessary modules or not and whether you have codes in them is the start. Good luck.
Thank you
I put a computer from ebay and it did run for about 3 months.
Where did u find wiring diagram
There are professional on line sources. I use Identifix but there is a DIY version from Alldata. www.alldata.com/diy/en/advanced-automotive-diy
You pay for access like purchasing a manual. Very reasonable in my opinion. I pay $160.00/month for Identifix.
Some public libraries offer access to Alldata and or Identifix. There is also Mitchell On Demand and Shopkey
Hi Phillip Bailey from Wisconsin
My brother from another brother... I was originally born in Illinois.