Forward clutch packs are burnt up. Could see that from the black fluid. When you unplugged the solenoid pack, that was when you can check the mechanical and hydraulic system. It will have a harsh engagement, but will show if the mechanical system is any good. What fails on these is 4th gear first, then that ruins the first 3 gearsets.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I know a lot of people have mixed feelings about this but given the situation you could try a fluid flush and fill along with a filter change, I know some people have had luck with that. Just a thought.
What would Scotty Kilmer do next????? He would change the transmission fluid, filter and add a bottle of Lucus transmission conditioner. If this didn't fix it, he wouldn't publish the video........
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I have had vehicles with similar problems that a fluid change fixed problem permanently. You don't know if fluid is contaminated. Remember trans run on fluid they're hydraulic. The black fluid should be a huge hint.
He would send it to a transmission shop or have them scrap it, actually. But changing the fluid seems to help a lot of people so it’s not a bad place to start. It should be mentioned that if you actually did keep up on the level and the fluid changes these cars will run forever. Laziness costs people money. It’s the easiest thing in the world to drain and fill this beast. No excuse for it, actually.
@@MA-kt8ly Strangely it doesn't clock up the miles at all.. haha?...maybe that's why it seems to take so much longer to get places?....lol Also...seems to be wearing everything out in no time flat?...hmmm....I wonder if that might be due to the oposite thrust forces on the diff/gears that were never built to take long term....or red-lining the RPM's everywhere I go?...LOL 🤣🤣🤣
reminds me of the fun days bought a 74 laguna no forward gears drove the thing home 35 miles in reverse .... new trans the following day drove great , lot faster in forward gears ... lol
I own both Toyotas an Lexus. I’ve had many more problems with the Lexus than with the Toyotas! I don’t think its an internal transmission issue, I would change the fluid. The remanufactured control box makes me wonder about the history
I have driven Lexus cars for the past 20 years. I have had 4 of them and put over 200,000 miles on 3 of them. I have always changed the fluids as recommended by Lexus. I have never had a problem with the transmissions. Great cars.
Same thing happened on my old '96 Lexus. Clutch packs are worn out. I was able to change the fluid and filter to get a few more years out of it but had to trade it in when it started acting up again. The reman ECU was probably due to capacitors bursting and leaking. Same thing also happened with that old car. I bought the caps for a few bucks and fixed that issue. Couldn't be mad at that car though, it nearly made it to 300k miles.
On all the transmissions I've read descriptions of, the shift solenoids would not cause a no engagement. It could cause a wrong forward gear or slow/harsh shifts but if it's in drive it should be in some forward gear.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Could that attempted hard shift into 2nd when the connector was unplugged perhaps been the default strategy but it failed to engage?
I know Chrysler's transmissions default to second gear as safe mode, and turn off all power to the transmission computer. If no power gets to the transmission computer, you only have second and reverse. I would expect something similar from most companies.
Yes it would be, that is why Chrysler designed it to be second gear. enough to get around with, limp it home, or at least get somewhere safe. I know this did backfire though, people lost power to the transmission, it dropped into second gear when they were going 80 or 90, and it grenaded the transmission.
Ivan you scrolled right past your apply chart, that is about the best guide for transmission issues. Tells you what does what mechanically in each gear position.
I'd drop the pan and have a look, but that reman ECU is a red flag. Seeing that connector is easily accessible why not de-pin the two solenoid wires and ground them off and on through a light bulb (unless they are positive switched but you get the idea) see if you can affect a change. BTW the A540E/541E is known to have reverse gear go out this is a sure sign the clutch packs are toast, no drive seems like something different.
From the looks of things if you unplug the solenoid harness from the transmission and it still acts the same then you have a hardware issue. Since you have reverse we can say the torque converter is good and from the looks of the oil it's not hard to imagine the forward clutch packs are gone. - Did you check the linkage at the transmission? I wouldn't call a transmission dead until the pan and strainer are removed and magnets are inspected. - If it was my car I would replace the clutch packs and seals and call it a weekend if the rust and exhaust system aren't too bad but, it's a tough call when the repairs cost as much as a replacement.
I have a 94 V6LE 2door Camry. 300,000 miles. Same problem, same bad looking fluid. Did a couple splash and fills and fixed it. Might be luck who knows. Looking forward to part 2.
Hey Ivan. Maybe you brought Staten Island cars over here lol!!!! Well, that's head scratching problem! I figure that it's the Reman ecm not talking to the trans? That's my thought. But maybe bad wire to the trans. Let's see what happens in part 2. Lol. Great video!!
Water in the engine bay won’t hurt anything everything under the hood can get wet just fine. The trick to washing an engine is to not use high pressure and don’t hold the water in one spot too long.
Have you try to reset the ecm or tcm ? ivan disconcted the batt both + and - for 2 hours ( hard reset) i think it will reset and if that the case she need a nother tcm ! why it drop in D 3 2 1 was lost of com in tcm!!! the reason why it not showing up on the scaner it pre ODB 2 SYSTEM !
I would drop the transmission out, put in a 5 speed manual...probably need to change the fly wheel, add a clutch pedal, slave cylinder and reservoir and go manual. Or, get that CVT you tore apart years ago, rebuild and install. One more thing....this is the most BACKWARD video i have watched to date. Ivan, your channel totally rocks man. Thank you so much for great content.
This will be interesting to watch. I have a twenty-year-old Lexus LS400 with 250,000 miles... It always goes into reverse no problem.. but lately it's been a little bit slower when putting it into drive.. when the car is cold.. but this is also my first winter having the car and it was fine all summer
Park it in the garage, aim a propane space heater at the transmission area and get things good and warm. Maybe an hour or two. Start engine and see if anything has changed with the shifting situation. If it works, drive it, then park outside to get it fully cold again and see what happens. If it works when hot but not when cold, remove pan if needed to check solenoids. If solenoids are indeed working, remove valve body and check for blockages with air through passages at low pressure.
it shouldn't be that difficult a repair...... Man I've heard myself say that too many times to count!!! Hang on to your hat Ivan it's about to get VERY interesting!!
That's still better than a BMW... They only work in the daytime ("D' mode...).... The do NOT work once it gets dark ('N' mode), and when you try to put in in 'R'ace mode. there's often an accident!
If transmission shifts smoother under ECM control, there must be an solenoid valve which let out hydraulic pressure from the first forward clutch during gear shift. If that is normally closed, unplugging the transmission connector enables the manual control of the gears. But if that valve is stuck open, no forward gears. P-R-N selection is done brake pressed, so no need there for smooth gear switch. Check the hydraulic schematics..
9:26 Shift Solenoid Valve SLN "Controls the hydraulic pressure applied to the back chamber of the accumulator and smooths the engagement of clutches and brakes during shifting" -> no pressure in accumulator, no forward gears?
Some are saying the forward clutch packs are burnt out, but I would think that the customer would have noticed some slipping in forward gears before complete failure.
Very good point. Car driving perfect and then suddenly losing forward gears definitely doesn't sound like a slow and painful wear-and-tear problem. Burnt clutches slip for a while and give the owner plenty of warning...
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Bad clutch packs also don't explain any connection to rainy weather, nor the forum posting you found about the guy who pressure washed his engine and lost all forward gears. If the problem is caused by water then that has to be an electrical issue. Of course it could just be a coincidence too.
If it's not an electrical problem with the solenoids, the next logical step seems to be to remove the trans. pan to access the solenoids. Since the fluid is dark, it's possible the shift solenoid's screen is clogged (if it has one), so it can't bleed off fluid pressure. If that's not the issue, the spool valve in the valve body may be stuck from varnish or from the clutch material in the fluid.
As the trans fluid ever been changed, rev the engine on redline for a while to make the pump in the transmission have more pressure you might get the valve body working temporarily
We had a 1999 camry wouldn't engage forward, would disengage at stop lights and signs, trans flush and was good for 4 months, same issue again after that and the only way the car would even go after flushing a second time was if you neutral dropped it, ive never flushed a trans since, just drain and fill. People dont care about maintaining the transmissions these days they barely get the oil and filter changed. Meanwhile I've changed my trans fluid twice within 25k on my 11 chevy Malibu trying to make up for previous owner neglect with a minor slip and delayed reverse engagement which both went away
26:36 D-2-L selector positions are going to give the same ECU outputs when the car isn't moving because it's only going to be selecting 1st gear regardless of which of those selector positions it's in.
I don't have a lot of experience with troubleshooting automatic transmissions but is there a way to force the forward solenoid on? Can it be done with the interface you were using? Also, sometimes it helps to use a stetoscope to listen for the noise to change when the solenoid activates. Perhaps the solenoid applies pressure to the forward clutch pack (or bands?) but they are not getting mechanically engaged? Just truing to think out loud...
I put a lock up solenoid in our '99 Camry. If you pull the valve body, be careful with the gaskets. You have to totally disassemble the valve body to replace the gasket that seals the valve body to the tranny. Toyota wanted my firstborn and then some for the gaskets. Found them on line much more reasonable. Oh, we now have convertor lockup! I agree with the guys saying it's probably something mechanical. Wonder what part 2 holds?!!
Can you see the CVI data with your scanners? There is a spec for each clutch and you’ll be able to see where you are. Gotta love transmission problems... jay
Lexus since inception has been built on the Camry floorpan and share upto 70% of body and driveline parts and engineering. This still occurs today. 👍👍🇦🇺
Andrew Hallett-Patterson that ES300 shifter reminds me of my mums ‘96 Camry . That car went forever until the E10 fuel burnt a hole in her piston. Even though the body & transmission was in great condition, ( trans fluid replaced every 60K Klm)the engine replacement (from a wrecker) was going to be as much as the car was worth..unfortunately it ended up going to the wrecker.
@@paulsz6194 You are correct. This is the exact situation today. The ES300 was also available with a manual gearbox, which was found in the Camry. 👍👍🇦🇺
lack of maintenance. Transmission oil is pretty much the only thing that needs supervision between oil change intervals. If I was to buy a vehicle with so dirty trans oil I'd reduce $2000 from the price for changing the transmission in near future or else walk away But hey at least the engine is about idiot proof
most people don't change there transmission fluid it seems. seems like people think that changing it if it hasn't been changed for a long time will mess it up because it will make stuff come loose in transmission and move it around and that will block up holes and stuff and make the transmission mess up and need to get another one after that
I have a Toyota axio 2009, and for some reasons the Drive gear just stopped working. The car won't drive forward but can go on reverse. How can I fix it without necessarily replacing the whole transmission?
I have a 1994 Camry and literally just ran out to my car to see if I had a hidden OBDII port I never knew about......super disappointed that there was nothing there
I would question the customer to try and determine if they burnt the clutches out. The slight engagement in default mode worries me. Most people will destroy their transmission as soon as it starts to slip by reving the engine.Otherwise why the default mode is not working needs to be investigated. Given that the pan needs to come off to do this I would price a second hand transmission. Given that these usually out last the car a S/H transmission may not cost much. I would purchase the S/H transmission before even moving the car into the shop. before removing the gearbox I would try the valve block from the S/H transmission in that one to see if it fixes the problem...yes parts changing...but easier than trying to inspect the valves or trying to activating clutches by compressed air.
So if the transmission has a fail safe or a limp in mode... it should still have one forward even without the electronics. I'd pay more attention to the clutch application chart in your service info... compared to your symptoms.
HA! Back in the day, my buddy drove his '79 Capri like 12 miles backwards down Rt.146 back to his house, after the C4 took a dump - he was left with only reverse too! 🤣 Maybe Scotty would try a Dawn dish detergent transmission flush. 😁 I don't know what I'd do. I'd probably tell the customer it's a lost cause, since I don't think a fluid flush / change is going to fix that problem, and especially since I have no reliable service info. I have to pick my battles carefully here. I'd be frustrated, for sure. 😣
The owner's manual my '07 ES 350 came with doesn't even have info like that. It's just "take your car to the nearest dealership" poo. Mine would drive only in reverse for about 2 minutes then the car wouldn't even move at all. Now it's stuck blocking my driveway with the shifter able to move but not engage in gears, the "R" stays on the dash, and it won't even start. I don't think I can even check the fluid level on this year.
You got a belt squeal to change the belt on the car even though the customer didn’t talk about the belt change it if it’s not the belt is the pole but I’m pretty sure it’s the belt from Aleskyfinis The solenoid may be slipping in there
its fun spinning doughnuts in reverse in a fwd car lol is there a pressure test port you can plumb into? that will tell ya all ya need to know especially if you have a pressure transducer for the scope.
The timebase may be too slow so the scope can't catch the fast changes/spikes (usually the sample rate depends on the timebase, but I'm not sure about the pico)
Interesting, my dad's 73 Plymouth has the opposite problem. Lost reverse and only goes forward. Pain in the butt since that's a titanic size car. Would like to know what causes that.
just put'er in R for race and go go go, direct to the transmission shop for a rebuild, of course make sure it wasn't some electronics failure causing slipping and death to it
My niece had one in 4wd trim...worst car I've ever been around WORST! ECM's burned up at 103,000...transmission at 122,000, calipers locked up at 86,000...left her stranded a dozen times which turned out to be multiple shorts in the main harness. JUNK! and I was usually the one that had to get her un-stranded. JUNK!
@@bairfamilyfarm1336 I'm in the uk. My car was a Ford Mondeo MK3 2001 - 2006. I owned it for 13 years and the CD4E gearbox was replaced twice for same fault. The CD4E was a very common failure and used in many car makes and models. Problem..... The hydraulic fluid pressure in the trans, increases to a very high level, due to wear in the valve body. The result was the clutch packs in the forward drive drum, would crack the end of the drum. To see exactly what this cracked drum looks like, search UA-cam.... CD4E Quick Tip
Ok, so I cheated and watched the next video. In my case, my reverse is great but revving the engine did not dislodge anything from a solenoid and I don't know the software you're using to diagnose malfunctioning solenoids so I'm considering guessing which solenoid is my issue. Any suggestions? I changed my fluid and filter, and refilled. It appears there are several solenoids. Suggestions or flow chart for next steps?
I wouldve blew a head gasket and discontinued servicing cars-if adding fluid would've worked😂. Reason being, fluid has to be introduce the same for reverse as drive. I'm not far in watching but had to say that!
You're correct to an extent. Had an 05 Grand Caravan with a weak pump. It would engage reverse when it was cold but not warmed up. After a call to a buddy of mine that has his own transmission shop, I learned reverse in that transmission required more more pressure/volume than forward. He explained it well. But he told me that the variable was probably not temperature but instead engine rpm. He also told me from get go that it was probably a weak pump. But anyway, engines idle faster when they are cold. He told me to bring up the RPMs to about 1000 then put in reverse. Voila. My brother used that van for another year and a half after that before someone totalled it for him.
@@ericstevenson7696 oh it's obvious that transmissions shot, in this case! One of my start up videos was doing the SL solenoid on this year car, I've dealt with the solenoids on this joker before.😂😂😂 But in regards your case, overfilling the tranny only ensures the fluid take up the space of a leaky valve body, it may or may not remedy the problem, if brought above limit. Adding fluid above the normal fill line will not increase the pressure, but likely fill a void to bring it back to standard pressure. -your transmission engaging in cold is a classic issue of this, leaking valve body, leaky solenoid, or Clarence in clutch pack.. Oil Viscosity is thicker in cooler temperatures and thins when hot. This is went Lucas oil stabilizers are thick and claim to correct shift discrepancies😊 Its hard to fathom that a transmission requires more pressure to operate reverse over any other, in regards to something this old. Now Chrysler's have an intelligent shift, but this is post 2011s. That's an interesting situation you had!
@@partsshooter I agree the transmission in this lexus is likely done for and not worth replacing either. As for my brother's van, we didnt over fill it. Just had to bring it up to a high idle to engage reverse. I had a Nissan Frontier with 240k that had (what people of the interweb refer to as) morning sickness. It had a leaky valve body and did require a slight over fill to remedy that. It was a cheap truck that I used for commuting and running parts or the occasional scrap haul. Wasn't worth properly fixing.
Forward clutch packs are burnt up. Could see that from the black fluid.
When you unplugged the solenoid pack, that was when you can check the mechanical and hydraulic system. It will have a harsh engagement, but will show if the mechanical system is any good.
What fails on these is 4th gear first, then that ruins the first 3 gearsets.
That sounds terrible lol. But it's a Lexus! Should be able to go 1 million miles!!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics
Unfortunately, it may need the rebuild. They are fairly easy to rebuild though.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I know a lot of people have mixed feelings about this but given the situation you could try a fluid flush and fill along with a filter change, I know some people have had luck with that. Just a thought.
What would Scotty Kilmer do next????? He would change the transmission fluid, filter and add a bottle of Lucus transmission conditioner. If this didn't fix it, he wouldn't publish the video........
hahaha good one xD
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I have had vehicles with similar problems that a fluid change fixed problem permanently. You don't know if fluid is contaminated. Remember trans run on fluid they're hydraulic. The black fluid should be a huge hint.
Why do you have a pico if you are already have a verus?
Because the PicoScope is infinitely more versatile and powerful. Verus is good for quick diags and checks :)
He would send it to a transmission shop or have them scrap it, actually. But changing the fluid seems to help a lot of people so it’s not a bad place to start. It should be mentioned that if you actually did keep up on the level and the fluid changes these cars will run forever. Laziness costs people money. It’s the easiest thing in the world to drain and fill this beast. No excuse for it, actually.
The forward gears are overrated. People should practice driving solely in reverse for precisely this eventuality.
HAHA absolutely xD
Saves on mileage too
This is why it takes longer to return home. There are four or five forward gears but only one reverse gear.
@@MA-kt8ly Strangely it doesn't clock up the miles at all.. haha?...maybe that's why it seems to take so much longer to get places?....lol
Also...seems to be wearing everything out in no time flat?...hmmm....I wonder if that might be due to the oposite thrust forces on the diff/gears that were never built to take long term....or red-lining the RPM's everywhere I go?...LOL 🤣🤣🤣
reminds me of the fun days bought a 74 laguna no forward gears drove the thing home 35 miles in reverse .... new trans the following day drove great , lot faster in forward gears ... lol
Turn the Drivers seat around, swap the Headlights with the tail lights and tell Customer to use it in Reverse for now.🤣🤣😂😂
@ Steve Jones that's a good short term remedy that saves time & money 👍 trouble is someone may & will get hurt if not dead
Pick up hitch-hikers. They can help you park.
I own both Toyotas an Lexus. I’ve had many more problems with the Lexus than with the Toyotas! I don’t think its an internal transmission issue, I would change the fluid. The remanufactured control box makes me wonder about the history
I have driven Lexus cars for the past 20 years. I have had 4 of them and put over 200,000 miles on 3 of them. I have always changed the fluids as recommended by Lexus. I have never had a problem with the transmissions. Great cars.
Same thing happened on my old '96 Lexus. Clutch packs are worn out. I was able to change the fluid and filter to get a few more years out of it but had to trade it in when it started acting up again. The reman ECU was probably due to capacitors bursting and leaking. Same thing also happened with that old car. I bought the caps for a few bucks and fixed that issue. Couldn't be mad at that car though, it nearly made it to 300k miles.
On all the transmissions I've read descriptions of, the shift solenoids would not cause a no engagement. It could cause a wrong forward gear or slow/harsh shifts but if it's in drive it should be in some forward gear.
That's what I suspected, but the service info didn't describe what the "fail-safe" mode was...
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Could that attempted hard shift into 2nd when the connector was unplugged perhaps been the default strategy but it failed to engage?
I know Chrysler's transmissions default to second gear as safe mode, and turn off all power to the transmission computer. If no power gets to the transmission computer, you only have second and reverse. I would expect something similar from most companies.
Wouldn't it be dangerous/safety concern to engineer a transmission to failsafe into a neutral state if there was an electrical failure?
Yes it would be, that is why Chrysler designed it to be second gear. enough to get around with, limp it home, or at least get somewhere safe. I know this did backfire though, people lost power to the transmission, it dropped into second gear when they were going 80 or 90, and it grenaded the transmission.
Ivan you scrolled right past your apply chart, that is about the best guide for transmission issues. Tells you what does what mechanically in each gear position.
Just giver a big neutral drop in reverse.
I'd drop the pan and have a look, but that reman ECU is a red flag. Seeing that connector is easily accessible why not de-pin the two solenoid wires and ground them off and on through a light bulb (unless they are positive switched but you get the idea) see if you can affect a change.
BTW the A540E/541E is known to have reverse gear go out this is a sure sign the clutch packs are toast, no drive seems like something different.
Scotty would blame BMW's ignition coil design for this toyota going bad.😂
Ya he probably would
From the looks of things if you unplug the solenoid harness from the transmission and it still acts the same then you have a hardware issue. Since you have reverse we can say the torque converter is good and from the looks of the oil it's not hard to imagine the forward clutch packs are gone.
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Did you check the linkage at the transmission? I wouldn't call a transmission dead until the pan and strainer are removed and magnets are inspected.
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If it was my car I would replace the clutch packs and seals and call it a weekend if the rust and exhaust system aren't too bad but, it's a tough call when the repairs cost as much as a replacement.
Yeah for sure. This one is from Texas, so the body is immaculate.
Pull the trans pan, can look for clutch material as well as visually inspect the solenoids.
I have a 94 V6LE 2door Camry. 300,000 miles. Same problem, same bad looking fluid. Did a couple splash and fills and fixed it. Might be luck who knows. Looking forward to part 2.
Hey Ivan. Maybe you brought Staten Island cars over here lol!!!! Well, that's head scratching problem! I figure that it's the Reman ecm not talking to the trans? That's my thought. But maybe bad wire to the trans. Let's see what happens in part 2. Lol. Great video!!
Interesting problem. Looking forward to Ivan's prognosis.
Thanks for sharing.
Water in the engine bay won’t hurt anything everything under the hood can get wet just fine. The trick to washing an engine is to not use high pressure and don’t hold the water in one spot too long.
Just because they are energizing doesn't mean what the are controlling is actually moving.
Have you try to reset the ecm or tcm ? ivan disconcted the batt both + and - for 2 hours ( hard reset) i think it will reset and if that the case she need a nother tcm ! why it drop in D 3 2 1 was lost of com in tcm!!! the reason why it not showing up on the scaner it pre ODB 2 SYSTEM !
I would drop the transmission out, put in a 5 speed manual...probably need to change the fly wheel, add a clutch pedal, slave cylinder and reservoir and go manual. Or, get that CVT you tore apart years ago, rebuild and install. One more thing....this is the most BACKWARD video i have watched to date. Ivan, your channel totally rocks man. Thank you so much for great content.
What would I do? I’d call Eric’O for a second opinion..
I think i agree with colin. On forward clutch packs. It would be nice to do a pressure check
This will be interesting to watch. I have a twenty-year-old Lexus LS400 with 250,000 miles... It always goes into reverse no problem.. but lately it's been a little bit slower when putting it into drive.. when the car is cold.. but this is also my first winter having the car and it was fine all summer
Park it in the garage, aim a propane space heater at the transmission area and get things good and warm. Maybe an hour or two. Start engine and see if anything has changed with the shifting situation. If it works, drive it, then park outside to get it fully cold again and see what happens. If it works when hot but not when cold, remove pan if needed to check solenoids. If solenoids are indeed working, remove valve body and check for blockages with air through passages at low pressure.
Looking at the colour of transmission fluid, I would first change it and put new filter. Checked on old one if I can see some chunks of metal, etc.
Scotty Kilmer would say take it to the scrap yard.because the owner neglects to change the transmission fluid.my guess probably clutch
Change the transmission fluid and filter add Lucas transmission fix. Reset the ECM. Cross your fingers
Thank you!!!! That worked like a charm!!! Getting ready to change transmission fluid now!
brake torque in short bursts in R for race and drive around backward (while on jack stands) that will heat the transmission up
it shouldn't be that difficult a repair...... Man I've heard myself say that too many times to count!!! Hang on to your hat Ivan it's about to get VERY interesting!!
That's still better than a BMW... They only work in the daytime ("D' mode...).... The do NOT work once it gets dark ('N' mode), and when you try to put in in 'R'ace mode. there's often an accident!
First!!!! One of my favorite channels! Always looking forward to a new upload!
Hey thanks for the comment Ryan! Glad to have you on board :)
me too !
If transmission shifts smoother under ECM control, there must be an solenoid valve which let out hydraulic pressure from the first forward clutch during gear shift. If that is normally closed, unplugging the transmission connector enables the manual control of the gears. But if that valve is stuck open, no forward gears. P-R-N selection is done brake pressed, so no need there for smooth gear switch. Check the hydraulic schematics..
9:26 Shift Solenoid Valve SLN "Controls the hydraulic pressure applied to the back chamber of the accumulator and smooths the engagement of clutches and brakes during shifting" -> no pressure in accumulator, no forward gears?
Some are saying the forward clutch packs are burnt out, but I would think that the customer would have noticed some slipping in forward gears before complete failure.
Very good point. Car driving perfect and then suddenly losing forward gears definitely doesn't sound like a slow and painful wear-and-tear problem. Burnt clutches slip for a while and give the owner plenty of warning...
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Bad clutch packs also don't explain any connection to rainy weather, nor the forum posting you found about the guy who pressure washed his engine and lost all forward gears. If the problem is caused by water then that has to be an electrical issue. Of course it could just be a coincidence too.
Of course.
Customers don’t lie right?
Ivan it was 18F this morning in southeast Wisconsin. Love it while you can. The next thing I would do is move the car indoors.
Great vid.
If it's not an electrical problem with the solenoids, the next logical step seems to be to remove the trans. pan to access the solenoids. Since the fluid is dark, it's possible the shift solenoid's screen is clogged (if it has one), so it can't bleed off fluid pressure. If that's not the issue, the spool valve in the valve body may be stuck from varnish or from the clutch material in the fluid.
As the trans fluid ever been changed, rev the engine on redline for a while to make the pump in the transmission have more pressure you might get the valve body working temporarily
That's why you change the fluid
New trans time
Yes sure is theres no such thing as lifetime fluid
We had a 1999 camry wouldn't engage forward, would disengage at stop lights and signs, trans flush and was good for 4 months, same issue again after that and the only way the car would even go after flushing a second time was if you neutral dropped it, ive never flushed a trans since, just drain and fill. People dont care about maintaining the transmissions these days they barely get the oil and filter changed. Meanwhile I've changed my trans fluid twice within 25k on my 11 chevy Malibu trying to make up for previous owner neglect with a minor slip and delayed reverse engagement which both went away
Great diagnostics looking forward to part 2
26:36 D-2-L selector positions are going to give the same ECU outputs when the car isn't moving because it's only going to be selecting 1st gear regardless of which of those selector positions it's in.
That O2 code made my day lol
I don't have a lot of experience with troubleshooting automatic transmissions but is there a way to force the forward solenoid on? Can it be done with the interface you were using?
Also, sometimes it helps to use a stetoscope to listen for the noise to change when the solenoid activates. Perhaps the solenoid applies pressure to the forward clutch pack (or bands?) but they are not getting mechanically engaged? Just truing to think out loud...
seeing pintle hump on shift solenoid thts great information, I thought only to fuel injectors , thts good information thanks Ivan
I would open that ecm and inspect it for burnt traces/caps.
Westside Lexus is locates here in Houston, growing up my dad bought 2 Lexus from them. Seemed to be a good dealer with good service.
I say its a hydraulic issue. It would sure be nice to do a hydraulic pressure check of the forward clutches.
I put a lock up solenoid in our '99 Camry. If you pull the valve body, be careful with the gaskets. You have to totally disassemble the valve body to replace the gasket that seals the valve body to the tranny. Toyota wanted my firstborn and then some for the gaskets. Found them on line much more reasonable.
Oh, we now have convertor lockup!
I agree with the guys saying it's probably something mechanical. Wonder what part 2 holds?!!
I had a 1972 Monte Carlo that lost it's forward gears.....TH350, just worn out clutch packs.
Drive cable under shifter popped off or broke off and just needs to be put back on of fixed and put back on?.
you should do a pressure check on the trans and that will tell you if its loosing or stuck solenoid
Can you see the CVI data with your scanners? There is a spec for each clutch and you’ll be able to see where you are. Gotta love transmission problems... jay
Come on Ivan we need to see a rebuild 😁😁
With a manual about that trans i am pretty sure you would do it!!
Scotty has been depressed since the new Supra came out. Even he can’t deny that car is 99% a BMW with BMW stickers and part numbers. Lol!
What would I do next? I'd drive it off a cliff, o sorry reverse it off a cliff
I go towards that remanufactured ecu.
can you still find a used transmission for a car that old? Isn't that the same transmission the camry used back then?
Lexus since inception has been built on the Camry floorpan and share upto 70% of body and driveline parts and engineering. This still occurs today. 👍👍🇦🇺
Andrew Hallett-Patterson that ES300 shifter reminds me of my mums ‘96 Camry . That car went forever until the E10 fuel burnt a hole in her piston. Even though the body & transmission was in great condition, ( trans fluid replaced every 60K Klm)the engine replacement (from a wrecker) was going to be as much as the car was worth..unfortunately it ended up going to the wrecker.
@@paulsz6194 You are correct. This is the exact situation today. The ES300 was also available with a manual gearbox, which was found in the Camry. 👍👍🇦🇺
Wow a hole in the piston sounds pretty extreme! I thought the 96 Camrys were bulletproof :(
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics Apparently they are not compatible with E10( 10% ethanol blended) fuel.
lack of maintenance. Transmission oil is pretty much the only thing that needs supervision between oil change intervals. If I was to buy a vehicle with so dirty trans oil I'd reduce $2000 from the price for changing the transmission in near future or else walk away
But hey at least the engine is about idiot proof
most people don't change there transmission fluid it seems. seems like people think that changing it if it hasn't been changed for a long time will mess it up because it will make stuff come loose in transmission and move it around and that will block up holes and stuff and make the transmission mess up and need to get another one after that
I have a Toyota axio 2009, and for some reasons the Drive gear just stopped working. The car won't drive forward but can go on reverse. How can I fix it without necessarily replacing the whole transmission?
Scotty Kilmer would have already changed the transmission in the time it took you to add the fluid.
While that is REMOTELY possible, Scotty Kilmer would ALSO have mouthed off a 1000 times to everyone like a rabid vegan... I'll stick with Ivan thanks
That shit was funny jaden5seven.it was a joke people don't get mad
No doubt haha I'll ship the car to Scotty in Texas so he can do the tranny swap in 5 minutes! ;)
Propably shift cable has streched between sifter and transmission. Try between N and D
I have a 1994 Camry and literally just ran out to my car to see if I had a hidden OBDII port I never knew about......super disappointed that there was nothing there
LOL this thing had THREE separate diagnostic ports!
my 94 camry had one. has a plug that looks like it but might not be old2 though
Probably going to need a big part on this one.
Uh oh...
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics was it from wear and tear or lack of fluid changes
I would question the customer to try and determine if they burnt the clutches out. The slight engagement in default mode worries me. Most people will destroy their transmission as soon as it starts to slip by reving the engine.Otherwise why the default mode is not working needs to be investigated. Given that the pan needs to come off to do this I would price a second hand transmission. Given that these usually out last the car a S/H transmission may not cost much. I would purchase the S/H transmission before even moving the car into the shop. before removing the gearbox I would try the valve block from the S/H transmission in that one to see if it fixes the problem...yes parts changing...but easier than trying to inspect the valves or trying to activating clutches by compressed air.
So if the transmission has a fail safe or a limp in mode... it should still have one forward even without the electronics. I'd pay more attention to the clutch application chart in your service info... compared to your symptoms.
HA! Back in the day, my buddy drove his '79 Capri like 12 miles backwards down Rt.146 back to his house, after the C4 took a dump - he was left with only reverse too! 🤣
Maybe Scotty would try a Dawn dish detergent transmission flush. 😁
I don't know what I'd do. I'd probably tell the customer it's a lost cause, since I don't think a fluid flush / change is going to fix that problem, and especially since I have no reliable service info. I have to pick my battles carefully here. I'd be frustrated, for sure. 😣
The owner's manual my '07 ES 350 came with doesn't even have info like that. It's just "take your car to the nearest dealership" poo. Mine would drive only in reverse for about 2 minutes then the car wouldn't even move at all. Now it's stuck blocking my driveway with the shifter able to move but not engage in gears, the "R" stays on the dash, and it won't even start. I don't think I can even check the fluid level on this year.
Scotty would tell you to buy a Lexus..........O.. wait! This is a Lexus😂😂
Ivan, would you actually put a transmission in that car on the ground in your garage?
Hi I got problem with ls400 1997 goes in reverse and won't go in drive
What could be the problem
You got a belt squeal to change the belt on the car even though the customer didn’t talk about the belt change it if it’s not the belt is the pole but I’m pretty sure it’s the belt from Aleskyfinis The solenoid may be slipping in there
its fun spinning doughnuts in reverse in a fwd car lol is there a pressure test port you can plumb into? that will tell ya all ya need to know especially if you have a pressure transducer for the scope.
The timebase may be too slow so the scope can't catch the fast changes/spikes (usually the sample rate depends on the timebase, but I'm not sure about the pico)
Man I need your help my es 330 2005 is doing this ? Can I use the same method ?
That car is an endless money pit. (hands flailing about)
A541E?
Did Stuntman and Cameraman drop that off for you???
Looking forward to P2!
Interesting, my dad's 73 Plymouth has the opposite problem. Lost reverse and only goes forward. Pain in the butt since that's a titanic size car. Would like to know what causes that.
very good jab
Scottie might take out the trans fluid and put in some super wizbang fixit fluid that he's been using for decades to repair automatic trans problems.
try banging on the general area of those solenoids with a hammer an some kind of extension bar?
just put'er in R for race and go go go, direct to the transmission shop for a rebuild, of course make sure it wasn't some electronics failure causing slipping and death to it
This happened to me once (but the car was a different mark and make).
That was the end of that car.
Check the transmission fluid from Aleskyfinis how many miles is on that Lexus Change it out
Replace the transmission's clogged filter
I would do a fluid and filter change with locus oil trans
My niece had one in 4wd trim...worst car I've ever been around WORST! ECM's burned up at 103,000...transmission at 122,000, calipers locked up at 86,000...left her stranded a dozen times which turned out to be multiple shorts in the main harness. JUNK! and I was usually the one that had to get her un-stranded. JUNK!
It looks like a car for neutral drop
I had the forward clutch drum crack, on a Ford CD4E auto trans. Had reverse and D1 D2, but no forward drive in D.
What year? I've got one of those in my Ford escape, never heard of that issue. Only 1st band breaking and pressure regulator failing.
@@bairfamilyfarm1336 I'm in the uk. My car was a Ford Mondeo MK3 2001 - 2006. I owned it for 13 years and the CD4E gearbox was replaced twice for same fault. The CD4E was a very common failure and used in many car makes and models. Problem..... The hydraulic fluid pressure in the trans, increases to a very high level, due to wear in the valve body. The result was the clutch packs in the forward drive drum, would crack the end of the drum. To see exactly what this cracked drum looks like, search UA-cam....
CD4E Quick Tip
Rev Up Your Transmissions!!!.......
Ok, so I cheated and watched the next video. In my case, my reverse is great but revving the engine did not dislodge anything from a solenoid and I don't know the software you're using to diagnose malfunctioning solenoids so I'm considering guessing which solenoid is my issue. Any suggestions? I changed my fluid and filter, and refilled. It appears there are several solenoids. Suggestions or flow chart for next steps?
That’s good it’s moving That means it’s just a little stuck it got Krusteaz underneath that’s what I mean
Bulging ECU capacitors, forward drive clutches.
I lost 2nd gear in a manual trans one time. I found it again on the road a block behind me.
I wouldve blew a head gasket and discontinued servicing cars-if adding fluid would've worked😂. Reason being, fluid has to be introduce the same for reverse as drive. I'm not far in watching but had to say that!
You're correct to an extent. Had an 05 Grand Caravan with a weak pump. It would engage reverse when it was cold but not warmed up. After a call to a buddy of mine that has his own transmission shop, I learned reverse in that transmission required more more pressure/volume than forward. He explained it well. But he told me that the variable was probably not temperature but instead engine rpm. He also told me from get go that it was probably a weak pump. But anyway, engines idle faster when they are cold. He told me to bring up the RPMs to about 1000 then put in reverse. Voila. My brother used that van for another year and a half after that before someone totalled it for him.
@@ericstevenson7696 oh it's obvious that transmissions shot, in this case! One of my start up videos was doing the SL solenoid on this year car, I've dealt with the solenoids on this joker before.😂😂😂
But in regards your case, overfilling the tranny only ensures the fluid take up the space of a leaky valve body, it may or may not remedy the problem, if brought above limit.
Adding fluid above the normal fill line will not increase the pressure, but likely fill a void to bring it back to standard pressure.
-your transmission engaging in cold is a classic issue of this, leaking valve body, leaky solenoid, or Clarence in clutch pack.. Oil Viscosity is thicker in cooler temperatures and thins when hot. This is went Lucas oil stabilizers are thick and claim to correct shift discrepancies😊
Its hard to fathom that a transmission requires more pressure to operate reverse over any other, in regards to something this old. Now Chrysler's have an intelligent shift, but this is post 2011s.
That's an interesting situation you had!
@@partsshooter
I agree the transmission in this lexus is likely done for and not worth replacing either. As for my brother's van, we didnt over fill it. Just had to bring it up to a high idle to engage reverse. I had a Nissan Frontier with 240k that had (what people of the interweb refer to as) morning sickness. It had a leaky valve body and did require a slight over fill to remedy that. It was a cheap truck that I used for commuting and running parts or the occasional scrap haul. Wasn't worth properly fixing.
@@ericstevenson7696 morning sickenesd😂😂😂. I'm 33... Too young to have heard that.
Make sense from what you described! Nissan's are hella-reliable
@@partsshooter
Im 30... 😒
Texas car no rust , true but if it spent any long amount of time near the gulf it will look like a car from the salt belt.
This is it folks, this is what real mechanics do... It's called research. They don't just throw parts at it.
Get a pressure gauge and check pressures.