If you are after numbers or PB at the track, a new fresh set of tires is a must (especially if combined with light wheels and a lower UTQG). I'm always amaze to see supercharged Mustangs or ZR-1's show up at the track with 10 year old tires Nitto INVO or Goodyear Supercar tires.... I let them do their burnout, with one yellow light set, I wait patiently at the line, once green,..my time, to teach!.
I wish some smart engineer would demonstrate the power difference when reducing rotational mass furthest from the center (like a lighter weight tire vs a lighter weight wheel). Because I can easily buy a 31 lb (instead of a 38lb) tire which reduces 7lbs at the outermost rotating place. Or I can buy lighter wheels where the weight reduced is less effective because it’s further towards center of rotating axis. Then to add more complexity if I want a slightly lighter but larger diameter wheel…am I really improving anything performance wise at all?
Don’t even need to watch the video to know the answer… Anytime anyone comes to me to ask the first “mod” they should do to their car my answer is always tires or seat time.
Hey Adam! Curious to know more about your choice of Conti over Michelin. I've been a Michelin guy for a long time but my only real use of Contis were from a stock all-season on a MK6 GTI. Michelin's have done me well but wanted to know if you've done some other testing with your cars with different tire brands at the track/strip or it just more personal preference? Thanks!
I have a few friends that own tire companies so I've had the opportunity to have many discussions with people more informed than I am. I've found that Michelin performance tires have firmer side walls than Continentals which would make them better for circuit or track duty. With Conti's softer sidewalls they perform better for 1/4 mile performance testing that I do on the street. I've also found that Conti's are slightly lighter and quieter than their Michelin counterparts which is important for performance as well as comfort while daily driving.
It would have been cool to bolt your drag setup on and seen the difference. Mission is closed now? Maybe try a few different sets next year? A couple passes each on 3-4 sets would be cool.
@@VancityAudi just watched your slicks vs drag radials vid again. Yeah, need to find someone with some 18" DR2's that re mounted to hot swap them. I can't wait to get some DR2's for next year. The Indy 500's just aren't cutting it anymore.
@@dwvwnabbing someone else's 18" DR2 setup is easier said than done considering they are racing with me every time the track is open and need them for their own cars.
10.87 vs a 10.79 ... old vs new is the differnce.. both traps 127mph tops so barely shows any differnce in rotational mass mate.... sorry bud love your vids but thats a flop comparison :P
That's where you'd be wrong. The temp & DA were MUCH lower on that one run where he accomplished that 127mph trap speed with the RE-71R. Check out the bottom of the time slips. In order to manage 127mph, he needed a 62 degree ambient temp and a mere 500DA. He ran quicker AND faster in a hotter temp with over DOUBLE the DA on the NT05's. It's all in the details, which so many people don't pay attention to these days.
@VancityAudi while I agree with you, you are also trying to split hairs here... yes it's all in the finer details, it's not just just DA and air temp.. what was the track temperature? What was the track prep like? Was it the same? What tyre pressures? Where they the same? How much fuel in the tank? 5 gallons or 20 and where they the same? Did you weigh the tyres? (I think you did, can't remember). There is a lot more finer detail you can go into 😉 most people think the bigger the tyre the faster you go, which is not true. A 225 radial tyre will go 7s
@scottlarnach7205 I don't spend the time explaining all of those particulars in these videos because 95% of viewers won't have a clue as to what I'm talking about, lol. Here are the answers to your questions: The 2nd run I showed with the RE-71R had colder track temps than any of the NT05 runs. That was actually the coldest night we raced with that car. Tire pressures were exactly the same on all runs to make sure the testing was consistent. Fuel level was always at half a tank when he came to the track to race. He knows how particular I am about making sure each time we raced, it was consistent for these videos. The NT05's were 0.8-1.1lbs a corner lighter depending on which tire we were weighing.
We're forced to go through the water box at our track. So we simply build as much boost as possible and let'er rip to spin up the tires, cleaning them and warming them up in the process.
@@VancityAudi Aaaah, I used to always go around the water. I have to definitely try it. Do you have to position the front wheels on the water or rears?
APR (the cheapest OTS tune) - you can switch tunes without carrying a laptop around in your car…. (Switch four different maps using the cruise control stalk) although the for the last two years, Unitronic is bringing out a flex fuel option. Like what DS1 already has. In Australia at least - Unitronic cars aren’t really any faster than APR stage 2 cars. (Difference in US v AUS tunes - don’t know, but the power difference wouldn’t be a buying determinant) If you’re chasing the last few KW and risking conrods, those people are getting custom tunes using DS1 (the most expensive option by far) Various customers will value some aspects over others. As of this week, in Australia, APR have started offering stage 2 tunes after a three year hiatus.
@@FullsendGTR APR are safe. It’s 98/93 tune is purportedly better than Unitronics in terms of power and torque. DS1 OTS ones are also safe. You don’t buy the more expensive DS1 to use their OTS tunes though - you buy it for its adjustability by another tuner, after spending more money for that particular custom tune. Unitronic tunes have controversially had some failures on their slightly more aggressive E85 tune. I say controversially as some swear by it to the point of religious fervour.
@@MrTroytroy Please do not spread misinformation in the comments of my videos. @king_rs3 APR's software is by no means even close to as well sorted as Unitronic's. We have performance tested, 1/4 mile tested and dyno tested multiple Unitronic tuned cars and EVERY SINGLE ONE OF THEM has drastically outperformed the APR car. In terms of the Stage 2 E60-E85 Unitronic tuned cars, they launch better, they are smoother to drive and make more horsepower and torque. We have tested that and proved that on the dyno AND on the drag strip. The absolute best full weight 1/4 mile performance we achieved with the APR software was a 10.7 @ 127mph. The absolute best performance we achieved with Uni's software was a 10.4 @ 134mph when full weight and the same bolt on's. Yes, APR does have the multiple map loading option via the cruise control stalk which is cool, no doubt. But if you are looking for a better performing, overall well rounded tune Unitronic's is MUCH better.
@@Michael-rp5tcI most certainly am. I test drove a car at Iroz Motorsport featuring the full Uniflex calibration on one of their turbos. It was unreal.
Is that what it’s called? There’s a big thread that’s been following it on Audizine in the RS3 section. I made a comment there comparing flex fuel tunes vs standard OTS tunes. Typically they’re a mix of the scaling tables of the base tunes (stg 1, 1+, 2, etc.). In the N54 community the MHD tune flex fuel tunes were actually slower than the mix of tunes they were based off of. My concern os the same will happen here. Would it be possible for you to dyno the stg 2 e85 map and then the flex fuel map using the same tank of gas?
@@Michael-rp5tcthey have been optimized by Unitronic to ensure that they are getting the same amount of peak power out of the car on the UniFlex tune, as they did with their straight E60-E85 tune at a Stage 2 FBO level. I have a bunch of upcoming videos that will test their UniFlex tune at multiple power levels.
![How these 2 small parts make your car A LOT faster! [Audi RS3]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TsHXHEY7Swk/mqdefault.jpg)
people really underestimate how important tires are, so many dudes in fast cars running all seasons even here in Texas
If you are after numbers or PB at the track, a new fresh set of tires is a must (especially if combined with light wheels and a lower UTQG). I'm always amaze to see supercharged Mustangs or ZR-1's show up at the track with 10 year old tires Nitto INVO or Goodyear Supercar tires.... I let them do their burnout, with one yellow light set, I wait patiently at the line, once green,..my time, to teach!.
I do 1.54 60's on 235/35/19 PS4S on my RS3... Ever seen those Nittos do that? The PS4S is an incredible tire.
*On the street
On what tune? I can sure as sh$t bet not an APR one, lol
I wish some smart engineer would demonstrate the power difference when reducing rotational mass furthest from the center (like a lighter weight tire vs a lighter weight wheel). Because I can easily buy a 31 lb (instead of a 38lb) tire which reduces 7lbs at the outermost rotating place. Or I can buy lighter wheels where the weight reduced is less effective because it’s further towards center of rotating axis. Then to add more complexity if I want a slightly lighter but larger diameter wheel…am I really improving anything performance wise at all?
That would be an excellent comparison video.
Had both the nittos and ps4s. I have a rs3 on a ims750. My 60ft is .6 better on my ps4s. Why is this Adam ??
Considering I haven't driven your car, know nothing about your car, and have never even seen your car, I haven't a clue, lol.
Don’t even need to watch the video to know the answer…
Anytime anyone comes to me to ask the first “mod” they should do to their car my answer is always tires or seat time.
Proper tires make a huge difference. Great video, thanks.
Thanks for watching
Hey Adam! Curious to know more about your choice of Conti over Michelin. I've been a Michelin guy for a long time but my only real use of Contis were from a stock all-season on a MK6 GTI. Michelin's have done me well but wanted to know if you've done some other testing with your cars with different tire brands at the track/strip or it just more personal preference?
Thanks!
I have a few friends that own tire companies so I've had the opportunity to have many discussions with people more informed than I am. I've found that Michelin performance tires have firmer side walls than Continentals which would make them better for circuit or track duty. With Conti's softer sidewalls they perform better for 1/4 mile performance testing that I do on the street. I've also found that Conti's are slightly lighter and quieter than their Michelin counterparts which is important for performance as well as comfort while daily driving.
@@VancityAudi thanks that makes sense. I might have to give them a shot. Appreciate you man!
@machogy15 no problemo. Good luck!
Best tire ever Lionhurt
I see tunezilla S3 cuttin up 👀
That you do. They were out racing along us many times this year.
We were running NT01's on that pass too.
What psi? Just curious. Cheers
Fronts were at 26, and the rears were at 34.
Bro what’s going on with your rs3
We are repairing it and making it better than ever.
It would have been cool to bolt your drag setup on and seen the difference. Mission is closed now? Maybe try a few different sets next year? A couple passes each on 3-4 sets would be cool.
Would have been impossible. None of my setups will work on front OEM RS3 brakes.
@@VancityAudi just watched your slicks vs drag radials vid again. Yeah, need to find someone with some 18" DR2's that re mounted to hot swap them. I can't wait to get some DR2's for next year. The Indy 500's just aren't cutting it anymore.
@@dwvwnabbing someone else's 18" DR2 setup is easier said than done considering they are racing with me every time the track is open and need them for their own cars.
10.87 vs a 10.79 ... old vs new is the differnce.. both traps 127mph tops so barely shows any differnce in rotational mass mate.... sorry bud love your vids but thats a flop comparison :P
That's where you'd be wrong. The temp & DA were MUCH lower on that one run where he accomplished that 127mph trap speed with the RE-71R. Check out the bottom of the time slips. In order to manage 127mph, he needed a 62 degree ambient temp and a mere 500DA. He ran quicker AND faster in a hotter temp with over DOUBLE the DA on the NT05's. It's all in the details, which so many people don't pay attention to these days.
Keep in mind this is radial vs radial. I bet all season tires is a full second difference
@VancityAudi while I agree with you, you are also trying to split hairs here... yes it's all in the finer details, it's not just just DA and air temp.. what was the track temperature? What was the track prep like? Was it the same? What tyre pressures? Where they the same? How much fuel in the tank? 5 gallons or 20 and where they the same? Did you weigh the tyres? (I think you did, can't remember). There is a lot more finer detail you can go into 😉 most people think the bigger the tyre the faster you go, which is not true. A 225 radial tyre will go 7s
@scottlarnach7205 I don't spend the time explaining all of those particulars in these videos because 95% of viewers won't have a clue as to what I'm talking about, lol. Here are the answers to your questions:
The 2nd run I showed with the RE-71R had colder track temps than any of the NT05 runs. That was actually the coldest night we raced with that car. Tire pressures were exactly the same on all runs to make sure the testing was consistent. Fuel level was always at half a tank when he came to the track to race. He knows how particular I am about making sure each time we raced, it was consistent for these videos. The NT05's were 0.8-1.1lbs a corner lighter depending on which tire we were weighing.
How do you manage to do those pre run burnouts? Is it a haldex controller or do you just launch it to spin the wheels?
We're forced to go through the water box at our track. So we simply build as much boost as possible and let'er rip to spin up the tires, cleaning them and warming them up in the process.
@@VancityAudi Aaaah, I used to always go around the water. I have to definitely try it. Do you have to position the front wheels on the water or rears?
@maxvoblyy you don't want to be 'in' the water. You want to have driven through it. Your rear tire should just be past the water.
@@VancityAudi Got you! Will try it next time. Thanks!
Hi mate. Off topic question. Which do u prefer in terms for stage 2 e85 tunes. APR or Unitronic? And why?
It's not even remotely close. Unitronic is WAY more refined, faster, quicker and smoother.
APR (the cheapest OTS tune) - you can switch tunes without carrying a laptop around in your car…. (Switch four different maps using the cruise control stalk) although the for the last two years, Unitronic is bringing out a flex fuel option. Like what DS1 already has. In Australia at least - Unitronic cars aren’t really any faster than APR stage 2 cars. (Difference in US v AUS tunes - don’t know, but the power difference wouldn’t be a buying determinant) If you’re chasing the last few KW and risking conrods, those people are getting custom tunes using DS1 (the most expensive option by far) Various customers will value some aspects over others. As of this week, in Australia, APR have started offering stage 2 tunes after a three year hiatus.
@@MrTroytroy so APR tunes are safe and well refined i take it? I thought ds1 may not be as powerful but more toward being safe/reliability
@@FullsendGTR APR are safe. It’s 98/93 tune is purportedly better than Unitronics in terms of power and torque. DS1 OTS ones are also safe. You don’t buy the more expensive DS1 to use their OTS tunes though - you buy it for its adjustability by another tuner, after spending more money for that particular custom tune. Unitronic tunes have controversially had some failures on their slightly more aggressive E85 tune. I say controversially as some swear by it to the point of religious fervour.
@@MrTroytroy Please do not spread misinformation in the comments of my videos. @king_rs3 APR's software is by no means even close to as well sorted as Unitronic's. We have performance tested, 1/4 mile tested and dyno tested multiple Unitronic tuned cars and EVERY SINGLE ONE OF THEM has drastically outperformed the APR car. In terms of the Stage 2 E60-E85 Unitronic tuned cars, they launch better, they are smoother to drive and make more horsepower and torque. We have tested that and proved that on the dyno AND on the drag strip. The absolute best full weight 1/4 mile performance we achieved with the APR software was a 10.7 @ 127mph. The absolute best performance we achieved with Uni's software was a 10.4 @ 134mph when full weight and the same bolt on's. Yes, APR does have the multiple map loading option via the cruise control stalk which is cool, no doubt. But if you are looking for a better performing, overall well rounded tune Unitronic's is MUCH better.
Well hello there
Howdy!
Are you aware of the imminent release of Unitronic’s flex fuel for TTRS/RS3?
@@Michael-rp5tcI most certainly am. I test drove a car at Iroz Motorsport featuring the full Uniflex calibration on one of their turbos. It was unreal.
Is that what it’s called? There’s a big thread that’s been following it on Audizine in the RS3 section. I made a comment there comparing flex fuel tunes vs standard OTS tunes. Typically they’re a mix of the scaling tables of the base tunes (stg 1, 1+, 2, etc.). In the N54 community the MHD tune flex fuel tunes were actually slower than the mix of tunes they were based off of. My concern os the same will happen here. Would it be possible for you to dyno the stg 2 e85 map and then the flex fuel map using the same tank of gas?
@@Michael-rp5tcthey have been optimized by Unitronic to ensure that they are getting the same amount of peak power out of the car on the UniFlex tune, as they did with their straight E60-E85 tune at a Stage 2 FBO level. I have a bunch of upcoming videos that will test their UniFlex tune at multiple power levels.