Thanks Natasha. Another informative and timely video. Always great content. I learned so much from you. Thank you. Looking forward to getting my fig grafts done this year. Thank you 🙏
That tool really makes it look easier. I've grafted some citrus, but had many failures, due to trying to cut with a knife. Thanks for posting this video.
Thanks! While this works great for fig cuttings, citrus is a little different. I'm planning on cutting the Meyer lemon (left of the fig tree) to the main trunk and top-working with sweet orange scions to change it out. In my experience, your best bet for citrus is a rind bark approach. Citrus is softer wood and rind bark approach grafts are very successful for citrus given the amount of cambium contact. I hope to do a video on that soon.
Do you grow all your fig trees in large containers buried in the soil. !! What Do you fill containers with !!, Also do you drill 1/2 inch holes All over the containers !!! Would you change the mixture in the containers every few years ,,,, JUST starting in FIGS willing to learn As much as possible,, was told about containers to keep roots compacted for more and better fruit ,, Sorry so many questions.. Looking forward to hearing from you ..Thanks .
No; I only have a few fig trees in containers sitting on a patio. The fig trees you see in this video are all in the ground and not in containers. The black plastic edger you see at the base of the tree is at soil grade and its purpose is to prevent wood chips from touching the trunk and sitting on the root crown. Container-grown fig trees are best to sit on the ground level and not plunged in the ground as the latter will defeat the purpose and they will break through the container in time. You will have to annually remove fig trees grown in containers and root prune to keep them in the same size pot and prune often. You will have to add some fresh soil as part of the process. My go-to soil media for container plants is 60% peat to 25% perlite or pumice along with 15% sand or decomposed granite. Big box stores generally carry these items bagged in the garden center
@@EnlightenmentGarden Wampee is native to China, but is a distance relative to citrus trees. There is 2 Wampee, yellow and pink; the yellow Wampee is the one you can graft to citrus. The pink Wampee is closer related to curry trees.
Have you ever used the grafting tool where the scion did NOT match the diameter of the rootstock branch, so you could only match up the cambium on one side? Not ideal, but they often do it with cleft grafts so it seems like it might work, as long as it stays lined up on one side and doesn’t move when taping up.
I strive to match them up perfectly using the tool for strong grafts. Earlier on when I did not, the graft would often take but was weak and later failed on me and broke from the weight of the new growth. Cleft grafts have more surface area than the v graft the tool provides and definitely work with just one side. If you have a smaller scion than rootstock, a cleft graft to one side is the way to go. You could try the tool but the odds are it will fail
Another great video! I think I will follow your advice and remove the last branch of my Black Mission tree, grafting one of my scions onto it. It does seem like the grafts I’ve done in the last couple of years, just a few branches at a time, have been awfully slow growers. (My neighbor who doesn’t like figs has a Black Mission anyway, so I can just raid his! 😉) I’ve also noticed that when I graft low in order to be close to the heart of the tree, the scion gets shaded if I leave the parent branches alone. But if I graft higher or further out, I’m left with more of the rootstock branch than I want, putting out side shoots all season.
Glad it was helpful! Removing that last branch and being vigilant about removing any new rootstock branches should improve the vigor of your grafted varieties.
Thanks so very informative. I have done quite a few cleft grafts within the last couple of months and they are all doing well. I have learned a lot from you. Thanks Phoenix AZ
One thing I forgot to mention. I did a Black Socorro cleft graft onto my Brown Turkey Fig on Feb. 2024 and new buds were starting to appear but the took very long for the leaves to open and I think it was because I had a few little branches at the bottom of the branch I was grafting onto. As soon as I cut these branches off the new leaves on my Socorro Black started to open. Thanks
I dove in after this video and went grafting crazy with 14 varieties across 2 trees. Successful or not, it was a fun process. Thanks for the helpful video! In another video of yours (I can't remember which one) you referenced "high quality" bird netting. Do you have a recommendation? Last year I lost half my peaches to low quality bird netting.
That is great! Hope they all take. Yes; I've used “Bird-Safe Woven Bird Netting” available at Gardener’s supply online. It is flexible polyethylene netting and does run expensive for just one tree. Another option is to set up one of those "Dancer Waving Man Inflatable Tube" figures they use at retail for advertising. They scare the birds and protect a large area.
Nice technique and methodology. I wonder if a plastic bag might be better than the foil since light might help with growth. Also, I think alcohol wipes for the cutting tool would add to success rate.
Thanks! I don't usually use foil. Ideally, I'd be grafting 2 weeks from now. The foil only helps for insulation during the next two weeks or until I see the bud break and then it will come off. I actually use a spray alcohol bottle to sanitize my tools and just forgot to mention it. I've been hitting all the trees with 4 seasons and neem the last few weeks and while there are no signs of any issues, it's always a good idea to sanitize tools in between grafting.
Thank you! I had horrible success trying my hand at grafting figs last year despite being a veteran of grafting other fruit trees. Do you try and graft before the latex is flowing? I was wondering if i drowned my grafts in latex last year. My other thought was i had bad scions, cold weather, or letting the rootstock also grow... I had 0% take?!? Which is so weird. Thanks!
You are welcome! I don't find the latex flowing to be an issue. Even now, a little latex bleeds out. As we get closer to bud break, more will be flowing but has never caused an issue for me. Grafting my fig trees too early (when latex is not flowing) was my earliest issue years back. I had 100% failure when I grafted onto a fully dormant tree. Bad scions, cold weather, and rootstock competition are definitely potential issues. Best wishes for successful grafts this year!
Thank you for the informative video. Have the tool already just waiting for the buddy tape delivery. Thanks again for all your help. Do you have any tips on pruning pomegranate trees?
You are welcome! Pomegranate fruits on 2nd year-old wood so I don't do too much pruning to maximize fruit. I will remove the roostock branches that come out from the main trunk since I did top work my shrub and want to keep the grafts dominant. Clearing crossing branches, light thinning, and heading back to about 8' is all I do each year on pruning in winter. I also do some light pruning during the growing season just for shaping. Hope that helps
TX Everbearing and LSU Champagne have done well for me as rootstocks. Any vigorous variety should work well. Chicago Hardy and other dwarfs can work if trained low. There may be more maintenance up front as it favors bushy growth and will attempt to push a lot of rootstock branches vs a more upright grower. Unless constrained by space, I would go with a standard, nom-dwarf rootstock for a Franken fig rootstock
It's doing well--I'll do an update on the pomegranate bush soon. The grafts perform similarly with around the same vigor. I do notice that Azadi fruits more and Pink Ice has yet to set fruit and produce. Hopefully, this is the year for Pink Ice.
Thanks for the excellent tips. I saw so many copies of the same black/orange grafting tool on amazon and a few reviews with photos showing the scion not lined up properly/with gaps in contact, but yours looked so solid, I'll have to reconsider. The tool alone can be had for as low a $6.29 (Milisten) so I think adding that link might help for those who are on the fence about the price and don't want or need the rest of the kit. I was about to buy some parafilm as well but now I'm considering the buddy tape, though I understand the claims of higher grafting success I can't figure out why, or how it actually differs from parafilm other than being perforated and more expensive. Would you please share a link for the metal tags / engraving kit you use? Looks super clean and like you're able to line the letters up and stamp them all at once so they're evenly spaced? I've never used one so curious how those work.
Thank you. I don't create sponsored videos. I provide my honest experience and opinion. I linked the product I actually purchased and would be hesitant to link items I never used. Perhaps the price difference on these is the brand and the manufacturing is the same but can't say for sure as I didn't do an exhaustive consumer study. Not all grafting tapes are alike. If you purchase enough of them you will feel and see the difference. The cheap ones are thick, more rigid, and snap as you stretch them vs Buddy tape. Again my experience was that the other tapes did not provide a great seal and were difficult to work with. Everyone should experiment and find what works for them. I did a whole video on the metal tags just recently called "Jaboticaba Additions & Making Custom Plant Signs.” I got the label maker, Dymo M1011, used on ebay so there is no link to share but if you search it out there may be a good deal on a lightly used one. I would never pay full retail price for a new one as it’s steep.
Hi Natasha, I noticed some of your top 10 figs are grafted. Is it due to space or do some just do better on a different root stock? Also in the valley so I greatly appreciate getting your desert experiences!!
Hi. Yes; most of my varieties are grafted. Varieties like Black Madeira are not vigorous on their own roots here like others so I get more fruit with a graft on a vigorous rootstock. I also was trialing a lot of fig varieties and did not want 80 in ground trees. Grafting gives me diversity while keeping the number of in ground trees to a minimum. You may want to check out this video: All About Growing Figs in Hot Desert Climates - AZ 9B. I try to cover everything in this video.
Hi Natasha, I purchased a bunch of your cuttings to graft this year. I'm planning on buying a few more cuttings from Harvey at figaholics. His sale is late this year and I probably won't get my cuttings until mid March. Do you think its too late. I'm also in the valley.
Hi Sam! Mid-March is a little later than ideal because by then your rootstock trees will be active with growth and may not support the graft. There will be a lot of sap flowing at this time which could interfere with the graft healing. I have grafted that late and still had them take. As long as it does not get too hot in March (>=90s), they should be OK. You could alternatively root the cuttings and graft your pick of wood next year. I've taken that approach when the cuttings were too thick or I ran out of time to graft. March is an ideal time to root cuttings as you can leave them outside vs having them indoors
Hi Sam. Harvey listed his farm for sale in December and plans to retire to his property in Madeira. Not sure if the new owners will be doing cuttings sales, but once sold, I doubt Harvey will be too involved.
Not in my experience. Once a tree is mature, most of the fruit is going to have shade protection from leaves. I occasionally find scald on Socorro Black figs when they set at the top of the tree canopy in direct sun. In general, fig trees need full sun to produce well. I find most varieties (especially the top-tier figs from coastal Mediterranean regions) require consistent daily irrigation in summer to ripen properly. Without that, they will dry up and never reach peak ripeness which in turn means they will lack both sweetness and flavor.
Thank you. I know you’ve uprooted a variety of trees. I’m needing to uproot and relocate a guava and lemon. What’s your experience been on the survival of trees when uprooting?
@@epigeneticnerd4244 About 50/50. In my experience, established subtropicals are the least forgiving, and deciduous trees the most. Subtropicals hate having their roots disturbed and I seem to lose them no matter what I try. I usually relocate trees in the fall as I find they take it better. Knowing that feeder roots are in the first 12-24" of soil, dig wide to at least the canopy. There won't be too many roots deep. I usually just cut those with loppers once I dig down enough to locate them. I'd suggest trimming down the canopy by at least 30% as well since the trees will inevitably lose roots in the process. A treatment with vitamin b seems to help
@@EnlightenmentGarden yes I hate the idea of losing a couple trees that are doing well, after killing 1,000’s of dollars of trees already lol. I just hate the location I had put it in AND it’s my front yard.
Peter's honey is different than Yellow Long Neck in size and taste. If you like honey figs, I suggest you grow both. While much smaller, Peter's Honey often develops an actual drop of honey at the eye
Hello Natasha, I have a question, some cuttings from Mister Harvey have just arrived, they arrived very late, but I am going to try to graft, but what do I do with a cutting that is very thick, a little bigger than my thumb on my hand, I know can graft? Do you have any video of this type, is it worth it? I would appreciate it very much, from your neighbor in Surprise and thanks for ypu instructive video. Are you Teacher? Alicia.
IMO, the best graft you can do with a thick cutting is a chip bud. Please check out @JSacadura on youtube for a tutorial. Otherwise, you can just root the cutting and graft a more suitable cutting next year from your container plant. I'm a programmer by profession but do my best to help teach on this channel what I know.
@@EnlightenmentGarden I figured that's the only thing I can do if I can't graft it. The problem is that years ago I tried to root some cuttings and they became infected with gnat and they were already a foot tall, worms were seen in the roots after you inspected them. Do you still recommend coconut coir and perlite? Do you have any other suggestions that experience has given you? I honestly wanted to graft the only 5 that I bought but seriously, the Socorro Black is a chimney log and it will be expensive because I have to buy everything, grafting is easier and cheaper and it is because I follow your advice. Thank you for your videos and your suggestions, I really appreciate it.
@@seamoscomplices Yes I still recommend perlite and coconut coir for rooting as it's sterile. There is a product called "gnatrol" that is effective at killing gnats if you encounter them in the growing media. You just add it to the water (per the directions) when you water the cuttings.
Sorry; January is when most people sell cuttings in my area since that's when the trees go dormant. My trees are all budding out now so the window is over for dormant cuttings. Are you located in the US? If you are in the US and want cuttings now, then the figbid website would be a good option to purchase cuttings from. If not in the US, there are not many able to sell internationally due to all the red tape, and would be better to source from your region. I'm only aware of one store, WillsC figs, that sells outside the US. He's the owner of the OurFigs forum. You may want to look up his website and contact him. Hope that helps
I have successfully grafted, onto Desert King rootstock, three varieties of figs. - 1. Black Mission, 2.Brown Turkey, and 3. Black Madeira. If the rootstock is Desert King, where does the three different flavor profile come from? They all kept their flavor profiles - separate from the rootstock flavor. Original scion DNA? All the latex flow nutrition is from the Desert King. Thanks, Wonder and needed column. (9a) inquiring mind,
Great job grafting. There are three general fig flavor profiles: berry, sugar, and honey. Desert King and Black Madeira fall into the berry category. Black Mission and Brown Turkey fall into the sugar category. Their DNA and flavor will not change due to grafting and they will stay true to the original scion. Correct; the rootstock supplies nutrition to the scion when the cambium layer of cells from both are aligned.
Dang. I wanted to buy some cuttings from you. How can I find info on your cuttings next year? Oh, and thanks for your videos as always. BTW, did you top work your Fuji apple tree?
You are welcome! If you follow my shop on Etsy (linked on my channel) or subscribe to my channel, I always announce there when sales start. I posted a community link instead of a video this year so that might be why some missed it. Figaholics is very good for cuttings and he should start sales later this month. I dug out the Fuji apple tree and replaced it with a bare-root Flavor Delight aprium. I also planted a couple bare root low chill sweet cherry trees (Minnie Lee and Royal Crismson) in place of the Shangri La mulberry. My next grafting project will be to change a 12-year-old Meyer lemon tree into a navel/Cara Cara orange. I hope to do a video on that process.
They turn into shade trees every summer even with pruning each year due to their vigor. I've never not pruned a fig tree as I don't want them to be huge shade trees given how dense I plant. The other issue with letting a fig tree go is the fruit quality and size will go down and the fruit it does set will be out of picking range. IMO, there are a few trees that require pruning each year to keep them manageable: mulberry, fig, and moringa. All three are aggressive growers in our climate and if you skip cutting them back, you will eventually have 30-50' trees in a few years which most people don't have space for
I wonder if the quality of the fig would go down if I kept the fig tree at 15 feet instead of trimming them down to 5 feet. Since I like shade when it is 110F.
Thanks Natasha. Another informative and timely video. Always great content. I learned so much from you. Thank you. Looking forward to getting my fig grafts done this year.
Thank you 🙏
You are welcome and thanks for the kind words! Best wishes for 100% success on your grafts.
Mam, you are great teacher and Expert. Lot to learn
That tool really makes it look easier. I've grafted some citrus, but had many failures, due to trying to cut with a knife. Thanks for posting this video.
Thanks! While this works great for fig cuttings, citrus is a little different. I'm planning on cutting the Meyer lemon (left of the fig tree) to the main trunk and top-working with sweet orange scions to change it out. In my experience, your best bet for citrus is a rind bark approach. Citrus is softer wood and rind bark approach grafts are very successful for citrus given the amount of cambium contact. I hope to do a video on that soon.
Great job you explained well as I'm a beginner well done thanks for sharing
Thanks--glad it helps!
Do you grow all your fig trees in large containers buried in the soil. !! What Do you fill containers with !!, Also do you drill 1/2 inch holes
All over the containers !!! Would you change the mixture in the containers every few years ,,,, JUST starting in FIGS willing to learn
As much as possible,, was told about containers to keep roots compacted for more and better fruit ,, Sorry so many questions..
Looking forward to hearing from you ..Thanks .
No; I only have a few fig trees in containers sitting on a patio. The fig trees you see in this video are all in the ground and not in containers. The black plastic edger you see at the base of the tree is at soil grade and its purpose is to prevent wood chips from touching the trunk and sitting on the root crown. Container-grown fig trees are best to sit on the ground level and not plunged in the ground as the latter will defeat the purpose and they will break through the container in time. You will have to annually remove fig trees grown in containers and root prune to keep them in the same size pot and prune often. You will have to add some fresh soil as part of the process. My go-to soil media for container plants is 60% peat to 25% perlite or pumice along with 15% sand or decomposed granite. Big box stores generally carry these items bagged in the garden center
Gr8 video… tool works for all grafting… stone fruit, apples etc… cambium layer line up is critical…
Thanks! Agreed; It is pretty universal. The only limitation is with soft woods like loquat where it crushes the wood.
Good video; I also enjoy grafting my trees. I have 6 different varieties of citrus including Wampee grafted on my lemon 🍋 tree rootstock.
Thanks! Interesting--I did not know Wampee was compatible with a lemon tree.
@@EnlightenmentGarden Wampee is native to China, but is a distance relative to citrus trees. There is 2 Wampee, yellow and pink; the yellow Wampee is the one you can graft to citrus. The pink Wampee is closer related to curry trees.
Thank you so much for this instructive video.
Have you ever used the grafting tool where the scion did NOT match the diameter of the rootstock branch, so you could only match up the cambium on one side? Not ideal, but they often do it with cleft grafts so it seems like it might work, as long as it stays lined up on one side and doesn’t move when taping up.
I strive to match them up perfectly using the tool for strong grafts. Earlier on when I did not, the graft would often take but was weak and later failed on me and broke from the weight of the new growth. Cleft grafts have more surface area than the v graft the tool provides and definitely work with just one side. If you have a smaller scion than rootstock, a cleft graft to one side is the way to go. You could try the tool but the odds are it will fail
Great advice; that makes good sense. Thanks for the reply!
Another great video! I think I will follow your advice and remove the last branch of my Black Mission tree, grafting one of my scions onto it. It does seem like the grafts I’ve done in the last couple of years, just a few branches at a time, have been awfully slow growers. (My neighbor who doesn’t like figs has a Black Mission anyway, so I can just raid his! 😉) I’ve also noticed that when I graft low in order to be close to the heart of the tree, the scion gets shaded if I leave the parent branches alone. But if I graft higher or further out, I’m left with more of the rootstock branch than I want, putting out side shoots all season.
Glad it was helpful! Removing that last branch and being vigilant about removing any new rootstock branches should improve the vigor of your grafted varieties.
Thanks for replying! I will sure try that system with this year’s fig grafts.
Thanks so very informative. I have done quite a few cleft grafts within the last couple of months and they are all doing well. I have learned a lot from you. Thanks
Phoenix AZ
One thing I forgot to mention. I did a Black Socorro cleft graft onto my Brown Turkey Fig on Feb. 2024 and new buds were starting to appear but the took very long for the leaves to open and I think it was because I had a few little branches at the bottom of the branch I was grafting onto. As soon as I cut these branches off the new leaves on my Socorro Black started to open. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
I dove in after this video and went grafting crazy with 14 varieties across 2 trees. Successful or not, it was a fun process. Thanks for the helpful video! In another video of yours (I can't remember which one) you referenced "high quality" bird netting. Do you have a recommendation? Last year I lost half my peaches to low quality bird netting.
That is great! Hope they all take. Yes; I've used “Bird-Safe Woven Bird Netting” available at Gardener’s supply online. It is flexible polyethylene netting and does run expensive for just one tree. Another option is to set up one of those "Dancer Waving Man Inflatable Tube" figures they use at retail for advertising. They scare the birds and protect a large area.
Very helpful video!
Nice technique and methodology. I wonder if a plastic bag might be better than the foil since light might help with growth. Also, I think alcohol wipes for the cutting tool would add to success rate.
Thanks! I don't usually use foil. Ideally, I'd be grafting 2 weeks from now. The foil only helps for insulation during the next two weeks or until I see the bud break and then it will come off. I actually use a spray alcohol bottle to sanitize my tools and just forgot to mention it. I've been hitting all the trees with 4 seasons and neem the last few weeks and while there are no signs of any issues, it's always a good idea to sanitize tools in between grafting.
Thank you! I had horrible success trying my hand at grafting figs last year despite being a veteran of grafting other fruit trees. Do you try and graft before the latex is flowing? I was wondering if i drowned my grafts in latex last year. My other thought was i had bad scions, cold weather, or letting the rootstock also grow... I had 0% take?!? Which is so weird. Thanks!
You are welcome! I don't find the latex flowing to be an issue. Even now, a little latex bleeds out. As we get closer to bud break, more will be flowing but has never caused an issue for me. Grafting my fig trees too early (when latex is not flowing) was my earliest issue years back. I had 100% failure when I grafted onto a fully dormant tree. Bad scions, cold weather, and rootstock competition are definitely potential issues. Best wishes for successful grafts this year!
@@EnlightenmentGarden Excellent, thank you for passing along actual first hand experience/knowledge👍👍👍.
Thank you for the informative video. Have the tool already just waiting for the buddy tape delivery. Thanks again for all your help. Do you have any tips on pruning pomegranate trees?
You are welcome! Pomegranate fruits on 2nd year-old wood so I don't do too much pruning to maximize fruit. I will remove the roostock branches that come out from the main trunk since I did top work my shrub and want to keep the grafts dominant. Clearing crossing branches, light thinning, and heading back to about 8' is all I do each year on pruning in winter. I also do some light pruning during the growing season just for shaping. Hope that helps
@EnlightenmentGarden I am wondering what is your favorite rootstock for figs? will Chicago Hardy work well?
TX Everbearing and LSU Champagne have done well for me as rootstocks. Any vigorous variety should work well. Chicago Hardy and other dwarfs can work if trained low. There may be more maintenance up front as it favors bushy growth and will attempt to push a lot of rootstock branches vs a more upright grower. Unless constrained by space, I would go with a standard, nom-dwarf rootstock for a Franken fig rootstock
Excellent! How did your multigrafted pomegranate trees do. Do you notice a dominance issue with some varieties?
It's doing well--I'll do an update on the pomegranate bush soon. The grafts perform similarly with around the same vigor. I do notice that Azadi fruits more and Pink Ice has yet to set fruit and produce. Hopefully, this is the year for Pink Ice.
Thanks for the excellent tips. I saw so many copies of the same black/orange grafting tool on amazon and a few reviews with photos showing the scion not lined up properly/with gaps in contact, but yours looked so solid, I'll have to reconsider. The tool alone can be had for as low a $6.29 (Milisten) so I think adding that link might help for those who are on the fence about the price and don't want or need the rest of the kit. I was about to buy some parafilm as well but now I'm considering the buddy tape, though I understand the claims of higher grafting success I can't figure out why, or how it actually differs from parafilm other than being perforated and more expensive. Would you please share a link for the metal tags / engraving kit you use? Looks super clean and like you're able to line the letters up and stamp them all at once so they're evenly spaced? I've never used one so curious how those work.
Thank you. I don't create sponsored videos. I provide my honest experience and opinion. I linked the product I actually purchased and would be hesitant to link items I never used. Perhaps the price difference on these is the brand and the manufacturing is the same but can't say for sure as I didn't do an exhaustive consumer study. Not all grafting tapes are alike. If you purchase enough of them you will feel and see the difference. The cheap ones are thick, more rigid, and snap as you stretch them vs Buddy tape. Again my experience was that the other tapes did not provide a great seal and were difficult to work with. Everyone should experiment and find what works for them. I did a whole video on the metal tags just recently called "Jaboticaba Additions & Making Custom Plant Signs.” I got the label maker, Dymo M1011, used on ebay so there is no link to share but if you search it out there may be a good deal on a lightly used one. I would never pay full retail price for a new one as it’s steep.
Hi Natasha, I noticed some of your top 10 figs are grafted. Is it due to space or do some just do better on a different root stock? Also in the valley so I greatly appreciate getting your desert experiences!!
Hi. Yes; most of my varieties are grafted. Varieties like Black Madeira are not vigorous on their own roots here like others so I get more fruit with a graft on a vigorous rootstock. I also was trialing a lot of fig varieties and did not want 80 in ground trees. Grafting gives me diversity while keeping the number of in ground trees to a minimum. You may want to check out this video: All About Growing Figs in Hot Desert Climates - AZ 9B. I try to cover everything in this video.
Nice video
Hi Natasha, I purchased a bunch of your cuttings to graft this year. I'm planning on buying a few more cuttings from Harvey at figaholics. His sale is late this year and I probably won't get my cuttings until mid March. Do you think its too late. I'm also in the valley.
Hi Sam! Mid-March is a little later than ideal because by then your rootstock trees will be active with growth and may not support the graft. There will be a lot of sap flowing at this time which could interfere with the graft healing. I have grafted that late and still had them take. As long as it does not get too hot in March (>=90s), they should be OK. You could alternatively root the cuttings and graft your pick of wood next year. I've taken that approach when the cuttings were too thick or I ran out of time to graft. March is an ideal time to root cuttings as you can leave them outside vs having them indoors
Hi Natasha, do you know if Harvey at Figaholics will continue selling cuttings in the winter. I heard he was retiring. Thx Sam
Hi Sam. Harvey listed his farm for sale in December and plans to retire to his property in Madeira. Not sure if the new owners will be doing cuttings sales, but once sold, I doubt Harvey will be too involved.
Any of your top tier fig trees that you’ve found don’t tolerate full sun as well and may appreciate afternoon shade?
Not in my experience. Once a tree is mature, most of the fruit is going to have shade protection from leaves. I occasionally find scald on Socorro Black figs when they set at the top of the tree canopy in direct sun. In general, fig trees need full sun to produce well. I find most varieties (especially the top-tier figs from coastal Mediterranean regions) require consistent daily irrigation in summer to ripen properly. Without that, they will dry up and never reach peak ripeness which in turn means they will lack both sweetness and flavor.
Thank you. I know you’ve uprooted a variety of trees. I’m needing to uproot and relocate a guava and lemon. What’s your experience been on the survival of trees when uprooting?
@@epigeneticnerd4244 About 50/50. In my experience, established subtropicals are the least forgiving, and deciduous trees the most. Subtropicals hate having their roots disturbed and I seem to lose them no matter what I try. I usually relocate trees in the fall as I find they take it better. Knowing that feeder roots are in the first 12-24" of soil, dig wide to at least the canopy. There won't be too many roots deep. I usually just cut those with loppers once I dig down enough to locate them. I'd suggest trimming down the canopy by at least 30% as well since the trees will inevitably lose roots in the process. A treatment with vitamin b seems to help
@@EnlightenmentGarden yes I hate the idea of losing a couple trees that are doing well, after killing 1,000’s of dollars of trees already lol. I just hate the location I had put it in AND it’s my front yard.
Do you recomend a Peter's honey fig if one already has a yellow longneck fig in the ground? Thank you. In other words, is their taste similar?
Peter's honey is different than Yellow Long Neck in size and taste. If you like honey figs, I suggest you grow both. While much smaller, Peter's Honey often develops an actual drop of honey at the eye
@@EnlightenmentGarden Thank you I'll give the Peter's honey a try.
Hello Natasha, I have a question, some cuttings from Mister Harvey have just arrived, they arrived very late, but I am going to try to graft, but what do I do with a cutting that is very thick, a little bigger than my thumb on my hand, I know can graft? Do you have any video of this type, is it worth it? I would appreciate it very much, from your neighbor in Surprise and thanks for ypu instructive video. Are you Teacher? Alicia.
IMO, the best graft you can do with a thick cutting is a chip bud. Please check out @JSacadura on youtube for a tutorial. Otherwise, you can just root the cutting and graft a more suitable cutting next year from your container plant. I'm a programmer by profession but do my best to help teach on this channel what I know.
@@EnlightenmentGarden I figured that's the only thing I can do if I can't graft it. The problem is that years ago I tried to root some cuttings and they became infected with gnat and they were already a foot tall, worms were seen in the roots after you inspected them. Do you still recommend coconut coir and perlite? Do you have any other suggestions that experience has given you? I honestly wanted to graft the only 5 that I bought but seriously, the Socorro Black is a chimney log and it will be expensive because I have to buy everything, grafting is easier and cheaper and it is because I follow your advice. Thank you for your videos and your suggestions, I really appreciate it.
@@seamoscomplices Yes I still recommend perlite and coconut coir for rooting as it's sterile. There is a product called "gnatrol" that is effective at killing gnats if you encounter them in the growing media. You just add it to the water (per the directions) when you water the cuttings.
Hi do u have any fig cuttings top 5 on ur list ??
I love Berry Figs as well as you Do !
You told me to contact you @ the begining this year
Sorry; January is when most people sell cuttings in my area since that's when the trees go dormant. My trees are all budding out now so the window is over for dormant cuttings. Are you located in the US? If you are in the US and want cuttings now, then the figbid website would be a good option to purchase cuttings from. If not in the US, there are not many able to sell internationally due to all the red tape, and would be better to source from your region. I'm only aware of one store, WillsC figs, that sells outside the US. He's the owner of the OurFigs forum. You may want to look up his website and contact him. Hope that helps
Where do you get your fig varieties?
I purchased fig cuttings from an orchard/farm in California in the US. If you google fiagholics you'll find their site.
I have successfully grafted, onto Desert King rootstock, three varieties of figs. - 1. Black Mission, 2.Brown Turkey, and 3. Black Madeira. If the rootstock is Desert King, where does the three different flavor profile come from? They all kept their flavor profiles - separate from the rootstock flavor. Original scion DNA? All the latex flow nutrition is from the Desert King.
Thanks, Wonder and needed column. (9a)
inquiring mind,
Great job grafting. There are three general fig flavor profiles: berry, sugar, and honey. Desert King and Black Madeira fall into the berry category. Black Mission and Brown Turkey fall into the sugar category. Their DNA and flavor will not change due to grafting and they will stay true to the original scion. Correct; the rootstock supplies nutrition to the scion when the cambium layer of cells from both are aligned.
Mother Nature is wonderful!
Dang. I wanted to buy some cuttings from you. How can I find info on your cuttings next year? Oh, and thanks for your videos as always. BTW, did you top work your Fuji apple tree?
Disregard. I see you’re on Etsy
You are welcome! If you follow my shop on Etsy (linked on my channel) or subscribe to my channel, I always announce there when sales start. I posted a community link instead of a video this year so that might be why some missed it. Figaholics is very good for cuttings and he should start sales later this month. I dug out the Fuji apple tree and replaced it with a bare-root Flavor Delight aprium. I also planted a couple bare root low chill sweet cherry trees (Minnie Lee and Royal Crismson) in place of the Shangri La mulberry. My next grafting project will be to change a 12-year-old Meyer lemon tree into a navel/Cara Cara orange. I hope to do a video on that process.
Have you ever let a fig tree turn into a shade tree by never pruning it?
They turn into shade trees every summer even with pruning each year due to their vigor. I've never not pruned a fig tree as I don't want them to be huge shade trees given how dense I plant. The other issue with letting a fig tree go is the fruit quality and size will go down and the fruit it does set will be out of picking range. IMO, there are a few trees that require pruning each year to keep them manageable: mulberry, fig, and moringa. All three are aggressive growers in our climate and if you skip cutting them back, you will eventually have 30-50' trees in a few years which most people don't have space for
I wonder if the quality of the fig would go down if I kept the fig tree at 15 feet instead of trimming them down to 5 feet. Since I like shade when it is 110F.