The man just cleaned, repaired and conditioned a 106 year-old boot that had been chucked to the wayside, and there are still critics. Do your thing Leather Jesus!
Only so much you can do for leather that's so dry, but you brought them back into service and gave them more time for usefulness, while also making them look good in the process; Thank you for your skills. I wish you many more interesting restorations in future.
@@Curionimbus they're not wearable, the leather is still in terrible condition. You maintain them to keep them around for their historical significance.
After the saddle soap, these were crying out for a few applications of neatsfoot oil on the exterior until it won't take any more, a few days/week between applications to allow it to soak in nicely. I brought back a pair of rough-out combat boots that way. After the neatsfoot oil apps, I put in a properly sized shoe tree to get it back in wearable shape. Too much neatsfoot oil on leather in good condition will soften it up too much, but a case like this needs the neatsfoot oil badly.
I would avoid mixing natural oils/greases/conditioners, etc with synthetics (especially silicone). Stick with one sort. There are good oils/greases/conditioners of both sorts (natural/synth) though I generally go natural. If the manuf has suggestions, that is not a bad place to start. Redwing is good about this, though I would avoid their spray-on water repellent, not a fan of that product. Conditioners are generally less likely to darken leathers, whereas oils & greases will darken lighter leathers. If you want to polish over top, go easy on oil & maybe skip grease. Maximum water-repellence is to be had with greases (mink or silicone). Apply liberally, let soak in in a warm place (NOT under direct heat/air motion). Waxes are another topic.
Grease is for water proofing in the winter. Oil is to keep them from drying out in the summer. Wax is normally a beeswax blend with a oil. Conditioners are also normally a blend and each formula is different. Read the label to understand the ingredients.
@@jfruser Why would you avoid mixing synthethic and natural oils? I'm guessing since they wouldn't mix well together? My logic has been that oil is more for soaking into the leather itself so it stay suple and keeps the hydration of the leather itself in, and also helps to stop water penetrating through the leather and soaking it. That grease is more for making a sort of seal on the surface to keep the moisture and have a waterproof coating?
Basically a guide on how to destroy old leather. All these balms are designed for modern firefighter leather boots. They will over impregnate and literally cause the leather to decompose in a few weeks.
*Hmm probably should have let them dry first after washing them. And then condition them. Maybe the results would be slightly different. You did a good job though. You tried your best! I don't think they're wearable anymore, but they will make a good display piece!*
*That, and using shoe trees as they dry. It would be good to keep the shoe trees in them while they're used as a display piece. That way at least it keeps the material from sinking in itself.*
What's more impressive, using three types of oils and conditioners to bring 106 year old boots back to life or the initial brushing and knocking off 106 year old dirt from some God-forsaken trench in France.
you probably destroyed them with that saddle soap. Such old leather is very brittle and any water can ruin it, for example it starts a rotting process. Even if they look good for the first week the damage usually shows.
Could you do a video on Chamberlins and Feibings and Huberds do's and don't's....I would also like to see a through video on cleaning Rough-out leathers as well. It was nice to see some care given to these historical boots...I ruined a pair using Obenauf's and have not used it anymore..
So, is it possible to restore a pair of vintage boots like these, or perhaps a pair of WW2 US boots into a daily wearable state? Would a cobbler even be willing to assist in that?
William Lennon still makes WWI boots though I don't think the hobnails translate well to modern day life. Might find something similar by looking at different service boots though
why bother with cream from inside and grease from outside? wouldn't warming up (not boiling!) the grease make it mor liquid-like and allow it to soak the leather through completely? also it's "dubbin" not "dubbing" (yes I know it's easy to make that mistake) // ok it's dubbing in the USA. gotta love them dialects, right :)?
Generally I am with you on this, but the cream/conditioner may go easier on the wearer's sock than oil/grease that soaks in from the outside, while still getting the interior some nourishment.
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Yeah, if only you'd let them dry with a shoe tree inside, that would have been kind of fun seeing them in their original shape (if at all possible).
The man just cleaned, repaired and conditioned a 106 year-old boot that had been chucked to the wayside, and there are still critics. Do your thing Leather Jesus!
Only so much you can do for leather that's so dry, but you brought them back into service and gave them more time for usefulness, while also making them look good in the process; Thank you for your skills. I wish you many more interesting restorations in future.
He did a good job but these won't be put back to service. He cut one boot in half on his main channel.
@@SilvercreekAnimations I meant that they "could" be used; I recognize that they have cut the pair already, literally and figuratively.
@@Curionimbus Oh, I completely agree.
@@Curionimbus they're not wearable, the leather is still in terrible condition. You maintain them to keep them around for their historical significance.
The sole is so dry with the studs that it will fall apart if used.
Well...at least you tried...
LOL
Could you do a video explaining when to use conditioner, grease, oil or wax, and what ingredients in them to watch for etc.
After the saddle soap, these were crying out for a few applications of neatsfoot oil on the exterior until it won't take any more, a few days/week between applications to allow it to soak in nicely. I brought back a pair of rough-out combat boots that way. After the neatsfoot oil apps, I put in a properly sized shoe tree to get it back in wearable shape. Too much neatsfoot oil on leather in good condition will soften it up too much, but a case like this needs the neatsfoot oil badly.
I would avoid mixing natural oils/greases/conditioners, etc with synthetics (especially silicone). Stick with one sort. There are good oils/greases/conditioners of both sorts (natural/synth) though I generally go natural. If the manuf has suggestions, that is not a bad place to start. Redwing is good about this, though I would avoid their spray-on water repellent, not a fan of that product. Conditioners are generally less likely to darken leathers, whereas oils & greases will darken lighter leathers. If you want to polish over top, go easy on oil & maybe skip grease. Maximum water-repellence is to be had with greases (mink or silicone). Apply liberally, let soak in in a warm place (NOT under direct heat/air motion). Waxes are another topic.
Grease is for water proofing in the winter. Oil is to keep them from drying out in the summer. Wax is normally a beeswax blend with a oil. Conditioners are also normally a blend and each formula is different. Read the label to understand the ingredients.
@@jfruser Why would you avoid mixing synthethic and natural oils? I'm guessing since they wouldn't mix well together?
My logic has been that oil is more for soaking into the leather itself so it stay suple and keeps the hydration of the leather itself in, and also helps to stop water penetrating through the leather and soaking it.
That grease is more for making a sort of seal on the surface to keep the moisture and have a waterproof coating?
@@joe_ferreira Everything domo wrote. Especially the last sentence.
Would love to see a video on when to condition and proper leather boot care.
they did a video on that a couple years back, but if you're looking for resources trenton & heath have a good video on it
You breathed what life you could back into them but sometimes there’s only so much you can do. They’re a beautiful display piece now.
cant polish a turd LOL
Enjoying this new content!
Loving this new channel!
Basically a guide on how to destroy old leather. All these balms are designed for modern firefighter leather boots.
They will over impregnate and literally cause the leather to decompose in a few weeks.
*Hmm probably should have let them dry first after washing them. And then condition them. Maybe the results would be slightly different. You did a good job though. You tried your best! I don't think they're wearable anymore, but they will make a good display piece!*
*That, and using shoe trees as they dry. It would be good to keep the shoe trees in them while they're used as a display piece. That way at least it keeps the material from sinking in itself.*
“That’s not just any manky old boot. That there’s a port key!”
Spit shine on roughout leather? This is just getting crazy.
the style here is incredible
What's more impressive, using three types of oils and conditioners to bring 106 year old boots back to life or the initial brushing and knocking off 106 year old dirt from some God-forsaken trench in France.
Can't beat Huberds when it comes to a boot like this
quite impressive.
i know these are a piece of history, but this is quite literally polishing a turd. lmao.
Lol, nice touch with the typewriter sound at the beginning
the leather on those boots are in better shape than the leather on my boots after a year of working outside in the pnw.
You need to use FZ150, cause when you see the foam, you’re in zone and save yourself $150 bucks!
you probably destroyed them with that saddle soap. Such old leather is very brittle and any water can ruin it, for example it starts a rotting process. Even if they look good for the first week the damage usually shows.
Could you do a video on Chamberlins and Feibings and Huberds do's and don't's....I would also like to see a through video on cleaning Rough-out leathers as well. It was nice to see some care given to these historical boots...I ruined a pair using Obenauf's and have not used it anymore..
Try microwaving them for a few seconds... It makes my old Crispy Cream Doughnuts taste fresh and new.
So, is it possible to restore a pair of vintage boots like these, or perhaps a pair of WW2 US boots into a daily wearable state? Would a cobbler even be willing to assist in that?
Rather buy repros for that.
How many minks are in a bottle of mink oil?
Great ASMR
Can't help but think that obenauf's oil would have have better penetration into the leather. Still great video
does this decrease or increase the value?
Nice
oh yeahh
I wish someone made a very simple boot like this at a reasonable price here in the US... or does someone?
William Lennon still makes WWI boots though I don't think the hobnails translate well to modern day life. Might find something similar by looking at different service boots though
@@TheDemonpunkThe Ammo WWII Replica Boot can be custom ordered with any soles you want, you just need to contact them first.
@@joe_ferreira ordered from where? Who makes them?
Oak Street Bootmakers does a lot of reproduction boots
why bother with cream from inside and grease from outside? wouldn't warming up (not boiling!) the grease make it mor liquid-like and allow it to soak the leather through completely? also it's "dubbin" not "dubbing" (yes I know it's easy to make that mistake) // ok it's dubbing in the USA. gotta love them dialects, right :)?
Generally I am with you on this, but the cream/conditioner may go easier on the wearer's sock than oil/grease that soaks in from the outside, while still getting the interior some nourishment.
I think heat makes more damage than you may think
Love to see you guys do a charity drive for @WarriorAngelFoundation with @AndrewMarr for Traumatic Brain Injury survivors.
Can we get an asmr warning?