O M G. This video is exactly what I need to see, You extended the spindle. Honestly, I've been considering the same thing on my bike, but was unsure how to got about it or the consequences thereof. Bro, You've really gone all out on your build. thanks man👍👍👍
@ 13:30 That came out way better than I expected. pretty clean and no issues installing the BB cups onto the flanges. You might consider Heat treating that axle one more time before using it though. I'm not so sure the strenght, especially around the welded are area is as strong as it used to be. But regardless, at least now I know what I need to do . Thanks for the video man.
This is absolutely a suggestion I am willing to try, since I am also doubting the integrity of the weld. Though I think the principle of using the pipe is sound, I would carry out the execution of this method differently. If I were to do it again, I would grind in deeper bevels to allow more weld to be deposited deeper in the joint, so that there is still a decent amount of weld left even after it is ground down so that the cup can fit over. I would also preheat the pieces and use high amps (85-90 for e6011) to ensure the liquified electrode can seep through and fill any gaps, and reduce the chance of internal stress. Another possible way to keep a thick layer of weld is to create small tack welds in the pipe to lock the alignment, take it out of the pipe, slide the cup over the tack welds, and then create a second thick layer of weld, and since the cup is already in position, you don't need to grind away the weld. Although of course that would mean the cup is permanently stuck onto the spindle. I'm glad this video gave you a clear idea of how to go about doing this (in a better way) for your project. I will be making another spindle with the aforementioned improvements and do rigorous testing to ensure it doesn't break or warp, and then replace this video with an improved guide on extending spindles in a reliable and precise way.
@@engineeringdiy6311 Honestly, I'd rather go for the option of putting the cups over tacks before fully welding it as strong as possible, But this definitely seems like the more elegant solution
@9:50 Brilliant Ideaa Never would I have thought to check if the seat post had the same I.D as needed. My thoughts were to clamp all the pieces on a vice together, Provided the vice has a straight edge, they should all align, But Your idea's pretty good too
Haha thanks! In fact, during my first try with the extended spindle, I clamped both parts in the vice but the alignment was not great, due to the fact that my vice clamping faces are scratched and worn (as you can probably see). I also didn't have precision parallels, forcing me to come up with the tube idea. It was pure coincidence that the bike seat post happened to be perfect. I'm glad I was able to keep it "DIY" with a decent level of precision without needing to go to a machine shop.
Hey, I apologize for the delay, I've been super busy lately with a bunch of other projects which I will be posting on this channel soon, but I am planning to resume the ebike come June!
@@engineeringdiy6311 I am doing mechanical engineering right now. I am from India. I also wanted to make my bike to ebike for my college it's 45km away from my place could you suggest me which battery do I need for reliability and durability. Lithium ion here is cheap but quality ain't very good. I am thinking of nmc but it can be quite dangerous if it catches fire.
Thanks for the video. Do you know where I can find the bottom bracket with those lips for cyclone? Probably they took from some old bike design? I'm already running my own mid-drive bicycle but I need to change the motor attachment design to attach the motor to the bottom bracket just like the Cyclone, but I can't find this bottom bracket anywhere. I need 100mm version for fat bike.
O M G. This video is exactly what I need to see, You extended the spindle. Honestly, I've been considering the same thing on my bike, but was unsure how to got about it or the consequences thereof. Bro, You've really gone all out on your build. thanks man👍👍👍
@ 1:25 Great job protecting your threads. Glad you remembered this time😁😄
Awesome!! Keep em coming.
@ 13:30 That came out way better than I expected. pretty clean and no issues installing the BB cups onto the flanges. You might consider Heat treating that axle one more time before using it though. I'm not so sure the strenght, especially around the welded are area is as strong as it used to be. But regardless, at least now I know what I need to do . Thanks for the video man.
This is absolutely a suggestion I am willing to try, since I am also doubting the integrity of the weld. Though I think the principle of using the pipe is sound, I would carry out the execution of this method differently.
If I were to do it again, I would grind in deeper bevels to allow more weld to be deposited deeper in the joint, so that there is still a decent amount of weld left even after it is ground down so that the cup can fit over. I would also preheat the pieces and use high amps (85-90 for e6011) to ensure the liquified electrode can seep through and fill any gaps, and reduce the chance of internal stress.
Another possible way to keep a thick layer of weld is to create small tack welds in the pipe to lock the alignment, take it out of the pipe, slide the cup over the tack welds, and then create a second thick layer of weld, and since the cup is already in position, you don't need to grind away the weld. Although of course that would mean the cup is permanently stuck onto the spindle.
I'm glad this video gave you a clear idea of how to go about doing this (in a better way) for your project. I will be making another spindle with the aforementioned improvements and do rigorous testing to ensure it doesn't break or warp, and then replace this video with an improved guide on extending spindles in a reliable and precise way.
@@engineeringdiy6311 Honestly, I'd rather go for the option of putting the cups over tacks before fully welding it as strong as possible, But this definitely seems like the more elegant solution
@9:50 Brilliant Ideaa Never would I have thought to check if the seat post had the same I.D as needed. My thoughts were to clamp all the pieces on a vice together, Provided the vice has a straight edge, they should all align, But Your idea's pretty good too
Haha thanks! In fact, during my first try with the extended spindle, I clamped both parts in the vice but the alignment was not great, due to the fact that my vice clamping faces are scratched and worn (as you can probably see). I also didn't have precision parallels, forcing me to come up with the tube idea. It was pure coincidence that the bike seat post happened to be perfect. I'm glad I was able to keep it "DIY" with a decent level of precision without needing to go to a machine shop.
@ 6:20 Damn hardened axle🤣😂
When are you gonna post next video bro
Hey, I apologize for the delay, I've been super busy lately with a bunch of other projects which I will be posting on this channel soon, but I am planning to resume the ebike come June!
@@engineeringdiy6311 I am doing mechanical engineering right now. I am from India. I also wanted to make my bike to ebike for my college it's 45km away from my place could you suggest me which battery do I need for reliability and durability. Lithium ion here is cheap but quality ain't very good. I am thinking of nmc but it can be quite dangerous if it catches fire.
Thanks for the video.
Do you know where I can find the bottom bracket with those lips for cyclone? Probably they took from some old bike design?
I'm already running my own mid-drive bicycle but I need to change the motor attachment design to attach the motor to the bottom bracket just like the Cyclone, but I can't find this bottom bracket anywhere.
I need 100mm version for fat bike.