Thanks for this video. It was very helpful. I changed my pump yesterday and it seems to have fixed the problem. The fluid in the coolant tank wasn't moving at all to begin with. Now, I can see it moving around a bit. At 14:55 in the video you can see the other metal piece that is on top of the piece of metal that is on the bottom of the pump. I didn't remember this part of the video when I worked on it. I noticed also that it looked like the bolt in the side would need to be loosened or removed. It looked like it was more trouble than it was worse. So, instead of replacing the entire thing, including the metal plate on the bottom. I just removed the 3 screws on the pump and left the existing metal piece there. My car was wrecked by the previous owner and the front of the car was rebuilt. I was thinking maybe they put the parts back together in the wrong order, but, I can see from your video that that other metal bracket was on top on yours as well. It would have made more sense if it was underneath. Also, I took the headlight off, like you did. I have no idea how anyone could do this fix without doing that. It would be near impossible to get the pump out. Especially, if you replaced the metal part on the bottom. I gave up trying to replace it without removing the headlight when I got to trying to remove the wire. You have to press in the plastic piece to get it off and it would be a total PITA doing it without having the headlight off. Taking the headlamp fixture out, while a pain, is definitely the way to go IMHO. I already had some experience doing this from when I had to change the light bulb. I really stupid design I might add. Nothing like having to take off the entire bumper almost just to change a light bulb. Also, I got one of the magnetic grabber things that you mentioned in the video, and it really came in handy. You really did a good job on this video and the other one. I greatly appreciate it. Altogether, the pump cost me $140, plus another $15 because I got two sets of the hose clamps just like the ones you had from Harbor Freight. So, about $155 repair. I'm sure if I took the car into the shop to have it done, they would have charged me $100/hr for a couple hours of work. Plus, padded the hell out of the price of the part, like they are known to do. I wouldn't be surprised if they charged me $400-$600. So, I am glad I was able to do it myself. I bought some Toyota coolant also for $25. I didn't even have to use it though. I didn't lose much coolant at all since I used the clamps. The coolant tank was still on full after doing the job and running the vehicle. I filled it up a little previously, because I think when the pump failed originally, some of it boiled off and came out of the overflow hose on the tank. (I think that's what happened)
great job, I've done so many things to the Prius 2nd and 3rd generation thanks to UA-cam, I'm about ready to replace the engine on my 3rd generation Toyota Prius V because of a blown head gasket the JDM dealer near my house will sell me a low miles engine for $1,100 I'm happy that the example video helped you out, sorry for the sloppiness but I'm just a rookie at recording this kind of stuff, just returning the favor to the UA-cam Community, good luck
Nice video thank you, going to do this soon as preventative maintenance. I found the pump at Norm Reeves for 129+ tax. The prices do vary from dealer to dealer.
Thanks for the video. I'm hoping to do this myself, possibly tomorrow as long as I can get the part. I was planning on picking up the same exact hose clamps that you have. Scotty Kilmer has a video on them. Good idea on the magnet thing too. I had one, but, lost it. I'll see if I can get another one at Harbor Freight when I pick up the hose clamps. I'm going to try to not take out the whole headlight assembly if I can manage it. I've done it before to change the light bulb. Would rather avoid it if I can. You are right about the aluminum hood. The vehicle I'm working on was one that was wrecked by the previous owner and has a steel after market one. Way heavier than the OEM aluminum one. I'm planning on calling around for pricing to the local Toyota dealers as well. One of them tried to pull the switch-a-roo on me the last time. Quoted my one price. Then, when the part came in, tried to say that it was the wrong part and that I needed a more expensive one. That was on a serpentine belt. Got one from Auto-Zone instead for much cheaper. Dealers cannot be trusted.
I don't remember if it was in your video or someone else's, they said that the code cleared itself? Mine didn't, at least not right after changing the part. I cleared it using my Bluedriver OBDII diagnostic tool. The code didn't come back after about an hour of driving. Not sure if the code would have went away on its own if I hadn't cleared it manually.
This was a great video Mr. Garcia!! Thank you for posting, you were spot on, saved me $225 dollars by not going to dealer and doing this.
I'm glad I was able to help you, sorry about the messy recording style, I'll try to do better next time
@@mrvic92154 no need, video is fine sir!!
Thanks for this video. It was very helpful. I changed my pump yesterday and it seems to have fixed the problem. The fluid in the coolant tank wasn't moving at all to begin with. Now, I can see it moving around a bit. At 14:55 in the video you can see the other metal piece that is on top of the piece of metal that is on the bottom of the pump. I didn't remember this part of the video when I worked on it. I noticed also that it looked like the bolt in the side would need to be loosened or removed. It looked like it was more trouble than it was worse. So, instead of replacing the entire thing, including the metal plate on the bottom. I just removed the 3 screws on the pump and left the existing metal piece there. My car was wrecked by the previous owner and the front of the car was rebuilt. I was thinking maybe they put the parts back together in the wrong order, but, I can see from your video that that other metal bracket was on top on yours as well. It would have made more sense if it was underneath. Also, I took the headlight off, like you did. I have no idea how anyone could do this fix without doing that. It would be near impossible to get the pump out. Especially, if you replaced the metal part on the bottom. I gave up trying to replace it without removing the headlight when I got to trying to remove the wire. You have to press in the plastic piece to get it off and it would be a total PITA doing it without having the headlight off. Taking the headlamp fixture out, while a pain, is definitely the way to go IMHO. I already had some experience doing this from when I had to change the light bulb. I really stupid design I might add. Nothing like having to take off the entire bumper almost just to change a light bulb. Also, I got one of the magnetic grabber things that you mentioned in the video, and it really came in handy. You really did a good job on this video and the other one. I greatly appreciate it. Altogether, the pump cost me $140, plus another $15 because I got two sets of the hose clamps just like the ones you had from Harbor Freight. So, about $155 repair. I'm sure if I took the car into the shop to have it done, they would have charged me $100/hr for a couple hours of work. Plus, padded the hell out of the price of the part, like they are known to do. I wouldn't be surprised if they charged me $400-$600. So, I am glad I was able to do it myself. I bought some Toyota coolant also for $25. I didn't even have to use it though. I didn't lose much coolant at all since I used the clamps. The coolant tank was still on full after doing the job and running the vehicle. I filled it up a little previously, because I think when the pump failed originally, some of it boiled off and came out of the overflow hose on the tank. (I think that's what happened)
great job, I've done so many things to the Prius 2nd and 3rd generation thanks to UA-cam, I'm about ready to replace the engine on my 3rd generation Toyota Prius V because of a blown head gasket the JDM dealer near my house will sell me a low miles engine for $1,100 I'm happy that the example video helped you out, sorry for the sloppiness but I'm just a rookie at recording this kind of stuff, just returning the favor to the UA-cam Community, good luck
Great video amigo! Very helpful.
Nice video thank you, going to do this soon as preventative maintenance. I found the pump at Norm Reeves for 129+ tax. The prices do vary from dealer to dealer.
Thanks for the video. I'm hoping to do this myself, possibly tomorrow as long as I can get the part. I was planning on picking up the same exact hose clamps that you have. Scotty Kilmer has a video on them. Good idea on the magnet thing too. I had one, but, lost it. I'll see if I can get another one at Harbor Freight when I pick up the hose clamps. I'm going to try to not take out the whole headlight assembly if I can manage it. I've done it before to change the light bulb. Would rather avoid it if I can. You are right about the aluminum hood. The vehicle I'm working on was one that was wrecked by the previous owner and has a steel after market one. Way heavier than the OEM aluminum one. I'm planning on calling around for pricing to the local Toyota dealers as well. One of them tried to pull the switch-a-roo on me the last time. Quoted my one price. Then, when the part came in, tried to say that it was the wrong part and that I needed a more expensive one. That was on a serpentine belt. Got one from Auto-Zone instead for much cheaper. Dealers cannot be trusted.
I don't remember if it was in your video or someone else's, they said that the code cleared itself? Mine didn't, at least not right after changing the part. I cleared it using my Bluedriver OBDII diagnostic tool. The code didn't come back after about an hour of driving. Not sure if the code would have went away on its own if I hadn't cleared it manually.