Hey thanks for the video. Everyone does the engine coolant sensor, but you had the only video I could find about the inverter coolant temp sensor. Appreciate it.
Do not drain, is going to take you two days to fill the system back, much easier unscrew the sensor, even if you loose some of the coolant, to fill some back. If you put clean plastic container , right under the thermos , you not going loose to much.
Got a p1116 and red triangle + High Coolant Temperature Warning Light and engine light. Diagnostic dongle/app Innova's RepairSolutions2 says: " P1116 Primary Fix: Replace coolant heat storage tank Temperature sensor" that is the same as the "Coolant Temperature Sensor" that you are replacing here right?
I’m not having any code on my car. But I got no heat all. The fan keeps blowing cold air. Even if I set it at max heat. I flashed the heater core. I checked all the heating fuses all fine btw. I added coolant to the right level, I even let it run without the cap on, to purge the air. But no heat still. My question is did that sensor prevented you from getting heat ? And how did you come to that conclusion (engin code maybe) ? I’m really desperate bro! Please answer ASAP. Thanks
2004-2009 is gen2, so looking at car from front, it's on the Right side, next to the coolant canister shown. Driver side tire, easy access. No need to bleed if you SWAP ECT SENSOR RIGHT AWAY, n add some coolant in radiator.
Do you have heat if you turn it on? Check that both inverter and engine have enough pink coolant. Could be a stuck thermostat for the engine. Could be bad sensors
@@Healium55 Ok so I'd check that the inverter coolant pump is still working jump open the reservoir next to the inverter while the car is in the on position there should be some signs of movement in the fluid. If not bad pump. If your using an obd 2 testing you should be able to add a function of actual temperature of the fluid for the inverter. It could be the sensor went bad.
@@eby6114 Hi, reading your replies... My 2007 Prius has codes p0117 and p1150. I changed stat last Saturday, erased codes, but haven't filled coolant fully, and codes show up. I wonder if I need to test the coolant temp sensor? Symptoms: NO hot air with Heater ON on HIGH. Coolant temp 135°C 10mins after driving easy, RED TRIANGLE with Temp icon on screen. --I wonder if it's my radiator or heater box... i used K Seal (to stop potential internal engine oil leaks) 5wks ago, and after losing coolant, 3wks ago I used Bars Leaks aluminum sealer in case any radiator leaks. Your input is appreciated.
@@elydiaz1031 @Ely Diaz Check for damaged wires, or a bad fuse, if it has a fuse.. Not sure which one for that ONE sensor. The coolant sensor might get have damaged wire as well ... If they both showed up at the same time and they are on the same fuse then that's your answer. However they might go straight to the ECM. You might try looking through a service manual to see if there's a related fuse for both. Check your thermostat. I had a no heat problem which was resolved simply changing it. They say you can watch it in a pan while heating it up in water to visually see it open but if I'm going that far I just go ahead and replace it . Check bad wires. Bad fuse (if they are fused). There's another possibility that the water pump (electric) is bad or not getting signal which would cause overheating and no heat as well. Good luck
The code itself means poor engine performance but this very possible that the engine is not running at all also you might think that the engine is running but that might just be the hybrid battery trying to start the motor they sound exactly the same
Ha, there's a bunch. Faulty Air fuel Ratio (A/F) Bank 2 Sensor 1 Air fuel Ratio (A/F) Bank 2 Sensor 1 harness is open or shorted Air fuel Ratio (A/F) Bank 2 Sensor 1 circuit poor electrical connection Fuel pressure Fuel injector Intake air leaks I'd look at the last 3 first as they are the easiest. It could be one or more bad fuel injectors or none. It could be the sensor gone bad. Basically anything that would cause the air fuel ratio to be out of specs. You might try a good quality fuel injector cleaner. Use it and try a non ethanol gas at the same time. Reset it and see if the problem still persist. I bought a high ethanol gas just for fun on a road trip and all hell broke loose. Lost almost HALF of my fuel economy. Good luck. I hope it's an easy find for you.
@@jaimecuevas77 Not much, but I did start seeing it. If you have a Bluetooth diagnostic dongle you can find the actual temperature of the various sensors in real time
Hey thanks for the video. Everyone does the engine coolant sensor, but you had the only video I could find about the inverter coolant temp sensor. Appreciate it.
Do not drain, is going to take you two days to fill the system back, much easier unscrew the sensor, even if you loose some of the coolant, to fill some back. If you put clean plastic container , right under the thermos , you not going loose to much.
so I don't have to drain just unscrew and put the new one in quick as possible
plug the hole with your finger to minimize fluid loss ..then tread in the new sensor.
I guess you already know by now, but there is a bleeder valve for the coolant system.
Thanks for the vid.
Pretty sure that bleeder valve is exclusively for the inverter system which is isolated from the engine heater
Pretty sure that bleeder valve is for the inverter system which is an isolated system
@@eby6114 The bleed valve is located on the top of the other end of the radiator.
Do you know where the one for the inverter temp is?
We’re you having trouble with your heater what symptoms were you experiencing ? I have a P1122 with no heat
Mine was a bad thermostat
I have P1122 with no heat also, curious to know if/how you fixed.
@@asgreen21 Mine ended up being the engines thermostat
Got a p1116 and red triangle + High Coolant Temperature Warning Light and engine light. Diagnostic dongle/app Innova's RepairSolutions2 says: " P1116
Primary Fix: Replace coolant heat storage tank Temperature sensor" that is the same as the "Coolant Temperature Sensor" that you are replacing here right?
Yes I'm replacing that sensor. Btw if you have torque pro you can actually add widgets to see the various temperatures such as engine, inverter, etc.
What year is your Prius please? I have a 2009 want to know if its the same
2005 185,000 miles
@@eby6114 Thanks !!!!
I’m not having any code on my car. But I got no heat all. The fan keeps blowing cold air. Even if I set it at max heat.
I flashed the heater core. I checked all the heating fuses all fine btw. I added coolant to the right level, I even let it run without the cap on, to purge the air. But no heat still.
My question is did that sensor prevented you from getting heat ? And how did you come to that conclusion (engin code maybe) ?
I’m really desperate bro! Please answer ASAP. Thanks
Did you check your thermostat?
I did not. Because I don’t have the engin light on! So no code. And the car is not over heating, so I over ruled the Tstat.
After you changed your sensor, did you get heat in your car?
@@vladekvladinov5753 not until I replaced the sensor and thermostat
Not sure of the voltage but you could put a multi meter on while the heater is going to verify the electric pump has voltage
What side is the coolant temperature sensor located in a 2005 toyota prius ?
2004-2009 is gen2, so looking at car from front, it's on the Right side, next to the coolant canister shown. Driver side tire, easy access. No need to bleed if you SWAP ECT SENSOR RIGHT AWAY, n add some coolant in radiator.
I’m getting a p1116 code for my 08 Prius. Can someone explain to me what that is. Is it an easy fix and how much it will cost to repair? Thanks
Do you have heat if you turn it on? Check that both inverter and engine have enough pink coolant. Could be a stuck thermostat for the engine. Could be bad sensors
@@eby6114 thanks for replying. Are you referring to the heater? Yes hot air blows out when im using it at night.
@@Healium55 Ok so I'd check that the inverter coolant pump is still working jump open the reservoir next to the inverter while the car is in the on position there should be some signs of movement in the fluid. If not bad pump. If your using an obd 2 testing you should be able to add a function of actual temperature of the fluid for the inverter. It could be the sensor went bad.
@@eby6114
Hi, reading your replies...
My 2007 Prius has codes p0117 and p1150. I changed stat last Saturday, erased codes, but haven't filled coolant fully, and codes show up. I wonder if I need to test the coolant temp sensor?
Symptoms: NO hot air with Heater ON on HIGH. Coolant temp 135°C 10mins after driving easy, RED TRIANGLE with Temp icon on screen. --I wonder if it's my radiator or heater box... i used K Seal (to stop potential internal engine oil leaks) 5wks ago, and after losing coolant, 3wks ago I used Bars Leaks aluminum sealer in case any radiator leaks. Your input is appreciated.
@@elydiaz1031 @Ely Diaz Check for damaged wires, or a bad fuse, if it has a fuse.. Not sure which one for that ONE sensor. The coolant sensor might get have damaged wire as well ... If they both showed up at the same time and they are on the same fuse then that's your answer. However they might go straight to the ECM. You might try looking through a service manual to see if there's a related fuse for both. Check your thermostat. I had a no heat problem which was resolved simply changing it. They say you can watch it in a pan while heating it up in water to visually see it open but if I'm going that far I just go ahead and replace it .
Check bad wires. Bad fuse (if they are fused). There's another possibility that the water pump (electric) is bad or not getting signal which would cause overheating and no heat as well. Good luck
What is the code? P3190???
The code itself means poor engine performance but this very possible that the engine is not running at all also you might think that the engine is running but that might just be the hybrid battery trying to start the motor they sound exactly the same
Can I have the OEM parts number?
There is a bleed valve on the right side.
Thermos??? Thermos sensor??? How come you're not bleeding it properly??..
You referring to the bleeder valve for the inverter?
My Prius 2007 error code P1150.. Any ideas ?
Ha, there's a bunch.
Faulty Air fuel Ratio (A/F) Bank 2 Sensor 1
Air fuel Ratio (A/F) Bank 2 Sensor 1 harness is open or shorted
Air fuel Ratio (A/F) Bank 2 Sensor 1 circuit poor electrical connection
Fuel pressure
Fuel injector
Intake air leaks
I'd look at the last 3 first as they are the easiest. It could be one or more bad fuel injectors or none. It could be the sensor gone bad. Basically anything that would cause the air fuel ratio to be out of specs.
You might try a good quality fuel injector cleaner. Use it and try a non ethanol gas at the same time. Reset it and see if the problem still persist.
I bought a high ethanol gas just for fun on a road trip and all hell broke loose. Lost almost HALF of my fuel economy.
Good luck.
I hope it's an easy find for you.
My prius 2008 I got this code P0118 ; What Is The Code ?
It's a coolant sensor. High input. Could be wiring or the coolant sensor. Most of the time it's a coolant sensor gone bad
2:03 unclip what "wires"???
The electrical wires connected to the sensor.
Did you get a p0117 code ?
No mine was 0118, but it actually was high. My thermostat was stuck and I replaced it problem was solved
Was your car over heating at all?
@@jaimecuevas77 Not much, but I did start seeing it. If you have a Bluetooth diagnostic dongle you can find the actual temperature of the various sensors in real time
@@eby6114
You mention temps several times, what should be normal coolant temp?
I'm now seeing 135°C on free torque app with BT ELM327 dongle.
@@elydiaz1031 That's way too hot. Around 82C
I got code p0117
You might check your coolant level, coolant sensor or the wires that monitor it.