A Complete Guide To Insulating an Old Home (For COLD CLIMATES)
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- Опубліковано 22 бер 2024
- We will discuss how to insulate an old home in a cold climate using an old New England Cottage for the demonstration. Additionally, we discuss how to address common sources of moisture and provide you with some effective strategies to ensure your old home remains dry, durable, and comfortable for another hundred years.
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This is invaluable, just bought my first house, not as old as the theoretical house here but a 1940s Cape Cod style with minimal insulation. Previous owners put mini splits and new windows in, other than that it's largely a clean slate for insulating. Thank you for this!
Don't thank this guy and study yourself. Almost everything here is wrong. Obviously, he has never done it.
@@robertkosulic4122 What's wrong and why?
@@incognitotorpedo42very expensive
@@robertkosulic4122 Care to explain
Beautiful and detailed video. I don’t know if there’s better content out there than this on retrofits. It would be nice to work with more people like you who leave no stone unturned in the details.
I’m interested in understanding the goals of the homeowner in a project like this. The costs of carrying out this retrofit are extremely high, essentially bringing the building back to existing framing on both sides. Plus major basement floor upgrade, roof upgrade. All interior gutted, probably new mechanicals, plumbing, rewire. Windows. Homeowners have to move out for a while. In my area (Vancouver, Bc) the budget would need to exceed 500000 CAD for retrofit + renovation depending on the size of home and many other factors. (Probably more) At some point the cost to many homeowners is unjustifiable. This homeowner must care about protecting the heritage of the building, sustainability, and have a very healthy budget. Great client type! Was this work actually carried out on this home?
As a developping arch tech. This was very helpful
Expensive to rock wool and poly iso the whole thing, but this is a beautiful renovation explanation video!!! 👏
Personally I would avoid using borat salts indoors because they´re considered to be an endocrine disruptor, IE messes with your hormones. Other than that I think most of the solutions are good/sound.
People often forget that the biggest energy leak is when your building is not air tight. Just making it air tight helps a lot! Insulating should come as the secondary solutions because, as you mentioned, it comes with a lot of potential moisture issues.
Phenomenal video. Thank you! 🙏🏻
Love this channel mate. Nice work!
Excellent video again.
Conditioned attics are great to run services. Yes, you have about ~30% more surface area to insulate, but air sealing the attic ceiling perfectly is really fiddly, saving the labour cost and liabilities alone is probably worth the extra insulation.
Deep fascia detail can be addressed by extending the overhang. We have a lot of issues with not having a sufficient overhang, so this ends up protecting the buidling's facade from the rain more - the uplift issues do need to be considered too.
My question concerns vented vs non-vented attics. I have a open vented attic, so it gets very cold in the winter. We do not currently have soffit ice jams that are very common here in Mass. We want to insulate the attic to retain heat to make it more useful for storage. My plan is to build vent channels, between the rafters, from the soffit to the peak, to allow cold air to still rise and cool the underside of roof deck. Then insulate inward of the vent channels, to hold heat in the attic. my plan is to seal the inside opening of the peak vent so that to the inside air doesn't escape, but the vented air can still exit the the peak vent. IN the summer we would open the peak vent completely so the the heat in the attic could escape. The alternative is to seal the attic and put insulation between the rafters, hoping that the roof will not get too warm, and cause melting-refreezing problems . Any thoughts ? Gerry
Thank a bunch for taking the time and educating me. What I’m looking for is the solution between the studs. You’re speaking jibrish to me because of my ignorance! What is a good brand or a particular item I can use to insulate between the studs. I have a two story house, upstairs not insulated, I’m only insulating the bottom floor, brick on the outside and drywall on the inside. 700 sqft downstairs and the upstairs mirrors the same surface so 1400 total. Thanks man 🙏🏼
In cold climate ares its best practice to have a vented attic with moisture barrier at the ceiling. 6mm minimum. Baffles at roof line. Energy or thick assembly truss design over exterior walls. Good ridge vents. At least in the mountain west were the air is dry. Roof assembly in higher elevations get the cold roof design with a good air gap under shingles. Cheers from Montana.
I've seen a project where they jacked the rim joist up in sections to instal a dpm/air sealing gasket between it and the masonry. The building can move a lot before adding the exterior sheathing, as the old nailed board don't have the shear strength. Seems like a pretty good detail to me. Those borate plugs are dubios - I get using it for protecting end grain in for joist embedded in masonry wall (we have a lot of these in the UK), some even suggest using stainless steel plates to encourage localized thermal bridging to keep the end grain drier.
Awesome stuff, thank you!!!
In the gable roof, can the 2by extensions you describe (for additional insulation) be added on to existing TJI rafters? Thx.
Would you consider Zip-R over the shiplap sheathing?
Can I ask what product(s) are available as capillary breaks between footing and foundation?
The same liquid applied waterproofing products for foundation sides can be applied to footing before the vertical is placed. There could be some other options too 🤷🏻♂️
With regard to embedded posts, sometimes it's possible to retrofit a raised post base to uncouple the wood post/column from the concrete.
First tip is to NEVER use steel studs for anything structural or insulated walls as it will suck out/in the heat many many times faster than a thinner wood stud
This is so detailed. What if you have a brick house and for heritage reasons, cannot insulate from the outside? How do you insulate the brick wall to a NetZero standard?
He covered that question in a previous video you'll need a smart vaper barrier and a air gap between it and the interior drywall.
Do you work with clients in Canada?
Those tend to be the most tricky, and it depends on a lot of different factors including the exposure to weather/overhangs, climate zone, whether the brick wall is a veneer or a thick multi-wythe wall. Sometimes it's better not to insulate! You might find these two videos to be helpful:
ua-cam.com/video/0pOjJ-w733E/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
ua-cam.com/video/Csjs2yVVt7A/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
@@ASIRIDesigns Thank you!
I'm curious about ways to fasten the joist extensions to the rafters. Anyone have an idea?
The SDWS timber screws from Simpson work well.
@@ASIRIDesigns Awesome, thank you kindly.
my 1920's house has ice daming issues at where the wall meets the roof less space between the wall and the deck compared to ur drawing. the heat transfer of the wall going up apears to be the cause is there much i can do?
tried looking for zip system products but no one seems to stock it in canada all i can find is 100$ a sheet foam
I'd recommend checking out this video on ice damming: ua-cam.com/video/ibcssy25TOY/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
Have to ask. How did you get experience in this field very interested in following a similar path.
So $200k in retrofit to save $1500/ winter in heating costs?
That's an old house??? What do you call our 400 y.o. home?
This channel tends to discuss north american building practices where 120+ years is pretty old
Talk too much.
Well maybe u mean too fast😊