I don't leave many lengthy comments. If you're stumbling across this, do it. This shit works. Will save you time and loads of money. You can do it. It's very simple and easy, the harnesses aren't even fragile. My story : 2013 ram 1500 3.6l 4x4. Wired in a light bar on my truck and though I had shorted my truck out. Truck wouldnt start showed Service Power Steering, Service airbag, service ABS. I charged the battery up and tried to start thinking not enough power. Truck would now start but die immediately, same messages. Looked ovdr the fuse box, no shorts or blown, and noti ed my blower fan staying on and intermittent clicking from the fuse box lik the truck was being locked and unlocked cuz the headlights would turn on, wothout the key in it. Replaced the battery fuse link thinking I might have fried it connecting the bar power to it, instead of the the main terminal. No help. Did some research on the fuse box [TIPM] , and was horrified at the stories and recalls and price for replacement. Then I came across this. 6 hrs I let the terminals sit, then unplugged the tipm for an hour and now the truck fired right up. I had an ABS light on, that turned off as soon as I test drove it, and I had a nagging check engine light (truck was telling itself it wasn't getting to temp fast enough, even though all gauges and Temps were perfect, even had the truck refreshed for 500 dollars and it didn't solve that issue. Well guess what. This solved it. I'm sitting on a brand new mopar thermostat housing I may never use because I was thinking it needed an OEM for the CEL to dissipate. Nope. Just reset you're TIPM, exactly like this man does, even adds DE grease, kudos. Hope this helps someone in the future. Saved me thousands literally.
eventually it’ll put me into limp mode. I have to clear the code with my OBD reader and then it will drive for like 20 minutes and then it’ll happen again. Keep getting low-voltage TCM code and that’s it. I’m praying that this works. I just did everything and I’m gonna let everything sit overnight. My lights will flicker inside the gear, shifter lights will have all the boxes around them And I just keep getting low-voltage code. I need this to work or I’m gonna be homeless lol.
U r friggin awesome man. What a clear cut, knowledgeable, no time wasted, perfect video. Thanks for the info. I'd like to have u shoot and edit everything I watch on TV. I'd save so much time!
Brother I'm hooked both cables and then step on the brake to ground everything out it's way safer. Also use CRC qd electronic cleaner not a solvent like you said. Good video man just things I have learned
Great video!! Very helpful. I might offer an idea to help prevent corrosion from re-occuring, use spray 'De-OX-IT'. It kills corrosion and provides a very slight amount of lubricant that makes disconnecting and reconnecting the plastic connectors very easy. It's specifically made for this exact purpose, for all electronic connectors and electrical connections. Good stuff !!!!
My issue was the red main power connector going into the tipm. Lights and speedometer would flicker and act crazy. I tried everything. It happened again and I removed the battery, tipped tipm over and wiggled main wire. Worked like a champ. About every 3 months I do this. Trying to find a permanent solder or connect to fabricate.
This really worked? I just did everything in this video because my 2011 Chrysler 200 will randomly have lights flicker and say low-voltage and then eventually it’ll put me into limp mode. I have to clear the code with my OBD reader and then it will drive for like 20 minutes and then it’ll happen again.
My experience... when odd electical issues arise, the culprit is usually a bad ground. Check you ground straps. All of then but the engine compartment ones for sure. Chances are they're missing.
I'm having issues with my running lights. Mainly the tail lights, tag lights and interior lights in my '14 Jeep Patriot. They'll flicker 3-5 times and then shut off. My brake lights and hazards still work though. Checked all the fuses, all are good. Checked to see if it was the tag lights, still good. Not the radio either. Have no clue what to do now, except hope this works.
One other HUGE recommendation; NEVER, ever wash or get wet in any way the engine bay area, especially the TIPM or any fuse box, electrical wiring, etc. ESPECIALLY do not ever use a POWER WASHER !!!!!!! None of the wiring connections were made to withstand the high pressure water jet produced by a power washer.
Why do you have to remove the TIPM to perform a hard reset? The reset is done by disconnecting the battery, which cuts power to the TIPM and allows it to reboot. The process involves disconnecting the negative battery terminal, waiting for 15-20 minutes, and then reconnecting it-this effectively resets the TIPM without needing to remove it from the vehicle.
I thought of that right away when I saw this video it's informative the thing is awesome too unfortunately my disassembling stuff like that is not possible anymore fortunately I get the idea where I can just disconnect the battery cables And clamp the battery cables together hopefully it will work
I installed a used alternator got no crank still had issues with jump starting all the time figured for sure it was the alternator doing your hard start right now and we'll see.
Hello! I have a 2006 Sebring that I just bought used. Oddly, the horn was disconnected. I wondered why. The car began throwing a cam shaft sensor code and engine light came on. and I couldn't drive over 2300 rpms or 60 mph. Had the sensor replaced and two days later did the same thing. Sitting overnight, the check engine light goes out and drives fine. This has repeated itself a few times. Now, the low beams and fog lights stopped working. I'm suspecting a hard reset is in order. Do I need to disconnect the TIPM or may I just short the battery out overnight without disconnecting the TIPM? Thank you in advance.
Question = when doing hard reset,,do you tie batt cables together while tipm is still plugged in? if so, do i need to wait a period of time before unplugging Tipm ? does it matter?
My heat system wasn't working properly. The fan motors would turn on and off.. we replaced the hoses as they were old. As well as the main console piece. But still, the heat issue persisted. After hours of diagnostics, they FINALLY realized it was the TIPM. They went and checked every connection first which cost me like $300.. wish they had scanned the computer system first! Wondering if they tried a hard reset.. they want to replace it.
Hi what year van do you have? My vent position control doesnt work properly and cant regulate the heat either. Di they replace the tipm? My van is 2009
@@donaldholder2434 2012. Overall they had to replace the hoses, Tpim and the thermostat.. it was quite a hassle and the AC works but is kinda weak (so likely will need a recharge of frion soon, or just a permanent vacation at the junkyard haha)
I would also be suspicious of the blend door gear/gears failing. That will cause the fan to cycle off and on, plus not change from hot to cold as well. This was my Cherokee's issue.
Would this work if my rt side trailer signal isn't working? The wires on the trailer shorted out the TIPM? I know its the issue because I replace the TIPM with another one and the rt side trailer lights worked, I fixed the trailer wiring before I did this. However this caused my 4x4 to go out and no trailer running lights. so its not a good TIPM replacement. I'm just trying to get my original TIPM fixed, any help would be appreciated Thanks.
When you perform hard reset will this also allow ODB2 power to start working? My battery went bad cause alternator replace both and now ODB2 has no power. All my fuses are good van runs perfect. Just no power to ODB2 which is a problem for emission testing
Thanks for this video! I don’t have the means to take my Jeep Liberty to the dealer and actually replaced my own alternator last year lol! My car stalled out while driving and it won’t keep a jump start, so I figured this TIPM may be the culprit afte researching the issues. Are there any dealer codes needed after doing this hard reset?
P.S. The battery was replaced when I did the alternator only a year ago 10/21 and neither should be the issue I don’t think. All the lights come on and some blink, some stay on and are really dim etc. and the battery charge seemed fine when I had it checked the day before.
Check battery level regardless. If the TIPM is acting up, it will draw charge to systems without the car/alternator running draining it, as you know. I just did this reset and instantly drove my truck after no issues, even cleared a nagging p0138 code for engine Temps because the truck was acting like it wasn't getting to temp. It was. Had an abs light on after the reset but turned off within 1 minute of driving. Also noticed my eco boost activates more since doing this. Will do an update on comments here if I have issues with it over the next month or two. If I don't comment, shit went good. No codes no reprogram. Just unplug, set it down for a few hours , replug and go. I was surprised it was so easy.
@@SpencerJ87hanks @SpencerJ87! I love it when people take the time to reply and really respond to the original post. People are always in such a hurry anymore, but you took the time and I just wanted to acknowledge you and say how much I appreciate you. Your detailed information is going to help me tremendously. Hopefully, your information pertains to my 2016 Chrysler Town and Country, but regardless, I'm going to have to give it a shot, bcuz after replacing my oil filter housing unit, spark plugs and ignition coils, my vehicle doesn't even try to crank over. Plus, before my manifold drowned out in oil, my key fob quit working and I can only access my vehicle with the hidden key. Then I started getting a 'damaged key' every time I inserted the key fob. Also acting up was/is my window controller, as was/is my driver's side seat controller. It really sucks when you can't tip your seat back backwards. Hopefully, this hard reset will clear up these issues and I can get back on the road again!! Thank you, again, for taking the time to post your findings!!
That’s what I tell people. Every manufacturer has issues in different areas but I’ll takes shitty “hard parts” over shitty electronics/software any day.
@@erichmmiiiable I have not done this yet. The truck is mostly used for snowplowing out in the bush so it's not that critical yet. I need to get at it though.
Chrysler 200 (2011) I'm having the same problem. Next on my "things to try list" is unplugging everything and look for corroded or melted connectors. Has anyone had a similar experience? Oh, and Yeah, both bulbs are new, tested good.
What does resetting the TIPM change? Once you've reset it, is there anything to do or watch out for getting the truck running again? Did you remove the TIPM to clean things up, and spray the connections?
I have question I noticed after the hard reset u try crank it was still hard to get van cranked . So did it finally start or what? Do u have get pcm flashed?
I have a 2014 Town and Country van. It's started out that the engine light can on, I did a scan and it said to replace the Cadlic converter. Then after it said to replace the oxygen sensors on the converter. Now the dash lights and on, no blinkers, heated seats don't work, no speedometer, no mileage, no gas signal. Not sure what it is, costing me allot of money just to figure it out. If I clean out the tipm, or replace it, do I have to reset the computer? Plus the lead on the ECMS looks like it might not be on correctly. Could that be the cause???
I tried ordering a “FCM” located in front of the fuse box because I thought that was the issue but was told that will not fix the issue I’m having. I have 04 dodge grand caravan sxt and the power doors an trunk lid don’t work automatically but the main concern is with the key fob if u unlock or lock it’ll make the sound but won’t do anything. You have to unlock an lock manually. I reset the “iod” fuse I believe it was an it worked a few times after that an failed again I did this over an over also put both battery cables together like u did in video for maybe 1 min an it also worked for a handful of times an stopped locking automatically I have not tried doing all the steps u did in video . Could my issue be related ? Please get back to me I would appreciate it thanks for your time
the comb switch on steering wheele switch seems to have been turned to far to many times. thats life/ wipers got jumped and the grey buss fuse is accesable ; well kind-a. I can live with it; so the wippers do work.,
OK this is probably my problem. I’m hoping I guess. I have a 2011 Chrysler 200 convertible and I keep getting “low voltage code” And sometimes the car goes into limp mode. Do you think this could be the problem?
I am having the power surges, lights surging, stalling, not wanting to start issues. Mechanic has replaced both the batteries and now my alternator. Now saying the bad alternator "took out" my TIPM and I need a new one. As much as I would love to dump thousands of dollars I dont have into a car I just bought a few months ago, I am going to try this. But this dodge durango 2016 has TWO batteries. Will I need to disconnect both of them for this hard reset of the TIPM to work?
Thanks for the video. I had my local mechanic replace my TIPM as the dashboard lights were all flickering. Now that I got the new TIPM replaced, the dashboard lights are back at it again flickering. The vehicle drives. What should I do ?
Hold your mechanic accountable for the issue you paid to have resolved. Question the mechanic to see if the TIPM was ever bad the first time-They aren't cheap. If not satisfied take all future issues to a better mechanic. However again, accountibilty for this issue, and maybe no more new bussiness for this mechanic from you.
You COULD. But it would actually take you more time to do that and you'd end up having a meltdown looking through wiring diagrams or online for wire pinouts. This will take maybe 2 hours for a less experienced "youtube university" mechanics. Then eave it over night and about 20 mins putting back together. If you know how.to use a ratchet and have all the tools you need it won't take ore than an hour to do the initial stuff. The important thing is to clean those contacts! Dodge didn't do a good job of sealing the bottom of the tipm and it's right above the wheel well 🙄🙄 engineers... Anyway. Good luck. Take your time. Don't rush it. You're saving yourself 400+ dollars bybeing patient and working slow..
i know im randomly asking but does someone know of a trick to get back into an Instagram account..? I was dumb forgot my login password. I love any tricks you can give me
@Xander Skylar Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site on google and Im trying it out atm. Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
QUESTION---- CAN A HARD RESET BE AS GOOD AS REPLACING THEE TIPM???????????? DOES ANYONE KNOW????? MY 2014 ,,,630,000 MILES JUST QUITS RUNNING all the time ,,, 10 minutes to start it back up
Hello thank you for the video. I have 2012 dodge durango and I have done the re-set and it will start after that but it does turn on and also the wipers turn on by them self and the a few lights comes on an d off as well on the dash board. You think is the TIPM?
Car stalling intermediately on my wife with light and everything still on , sometimes while driving and sometime while in park sometimes it starts right back up other times 15 min - 2or3 hours later. always everything powers up but no crank and no start, mechanic tell me its the computer so i change the computer but the next day it stalls while warming up but starts right back up so im thinking it wasnt the computer . i drove around for a few days and while everything is driving smoothly and im thinking that last time must of been a fluke , i turned the corner and it stalled right in front of my dentist office in the middle of the road and would not crank but everything else was on, i had no tools or tester in the car at the time . i even heard the fuel pump come on but no crank. so i popped hood and started wiggling wires but nothing. then i started thinking maybe it was the TIPM so i banged it hard two times and wiggled the whole box because i had no tools with me and it started right up. i pulled into the dentists driveway 30 feet away and it stalled again right away blocking everyone in with no crank so i popped the hood again and smacked the TIPM IPM fuse box again and it started right up so i could drive home. so i think im going in the right direction with this TIPM . i probably will try to remove it and clean the connections and reset it like on this video. i will let you know how it works out.
update, when i removed the tipm and ipm fuse box under the hood i found a nest of acorns from a squirrel and wires bitten up and corroded from where the were bit into. i live by the ocean water, so it doesnt take much for open copper wire to corrode. i fix the all the obvious damaged area but i saw one small tear in wire covering so i was just about to tape it and call it a day, but i decided to cut it and repair it , im so glad i did because the wire was all corred under the sleeve of the wire were it had a tiny tear in covering . i repaired all that i could and the car has been running great for almost 3 months . i hope this help someone.
Shorting the POS & NEG battery cables together (in this procedure) to discharge internal capacitors should take...seconds. I am puzzled why it should take any longer. Can anyone tell me otherwise?
Capacitors will still hold internal charges. That is what needs drained. Every diode will need the electricity pulled from them for the system to be completely removed of any charge. The lines and terminals will lose power in seconds. It's the rest that the wait is for.
Conductive grease would short all the connections im assuming. Almost like dipping the connector in water. Non conductive grease still allows the metal to contact, while protecting from corrosion and not shorting everything
I'm going to try this. Having some issues with my 2010 caravan.. what a garbage system set up for brain dead assembly line workers to not f it up.. garbage dodge!! Straight 🗑
Thanks! Great info! Didn't have to watch a 15 minute repair video to find out if I was on to something before I got to it. Perfect! 👌
I don't leave many lengthy comments.
If you're stumbling across this, do it. This shit works. Will save you time and loads of money.
You can do it. It's very simple and easy, the harnesses aren't even fragile.
My story : 2013 ram 1500 3.6l 4x4.
Wired in a light bar on my truck and though I had shorted my truck out. Truck wouldnt start
showed Service Power Steering, Service airbag, service ABS. I charged the battery up and tried to start thinking not enough power. Truck would now start but die immediately,
same messages.
Looked ovdr the fuse box, no shorts or blown, and noti ed my blower fan staying on and intermittent clicking from the fuse box lik the truck was being locked and unlocked cuz the headlights would turn on, wothout the key in it.
Replaced the battery fuse link thinking I might have fried it connecting the bar power to it, instead of the the main terminal. No help.
Did some research on the fuse box [TIPM] , and was horrified at the stories and recalls and price for replacement.
Then I came across this. 6 hrs I let the terminals sit, then unplugged the tipm for an hour and now the truck fired right up.
I had an ABS light on, that turned off as soon as I test drove it, and I had a nagging check engine light (truck was telling itself it wasn't getting to temp fast enough, even though all gauges and Temps were perfect, even had the truck refreshed for 500 dollars and it didn't solve that issue.
Well guess what. This solved it. I'm sitting on a brand new mopar thermostat housing I may never use because I was thinking it needed an OEM for the CEL to dissipate.
Nope.
Just reset you're TIPM, exactly like this man does, even adds DE grease, kudos.
Hope this helps someone in the future. Saved me thousands literally.
eventually it’ll put me into limp mode. I have to clear the code with my OBD reader and then it will drive for like 20 minutes and then it’ll happen again. Keep getting low-voltage TCM code and that’s it. I’m praying that this works. I just did everything and I’m gonna let everything sit overnight. My lights will flicker inside the gear, shifter lights will have all the boxes around them And I just keep getting low-voltage code. I need this to work or I’m gonna be homeless lol.
Did it work? @@Bonbonbon739
U r friggin awesome man. What a clear cut, knowledgeable, no time wasted, perfect video. Thanks for the info. I'd like to have u shoot and edit everything I watch on TV. I'd save so much time!
Thanks!👍👍
Brother I'm hooked both cables and then step on the brake to ground everything out it's way safer. Also use CRC qd electronic cleaner not a solvent like you said. Good video man just things I have learned
I’m going to try this! I’m tired of stopping and popping the hood to smack the tipm til it stops acting up lol
EXACTLY !
We having same problem with our 2008 pt cruiser. Car stops and we shake the fuse box/ tipm and it cranks right back up
Great video!! Very helpful. I might offer an idea to help prevent corrosion from re-occuring, use spray 'De-OX-IT'. It kills corrosion and provides a very slight amount of lubricant that makes disconnecting and reconnecting the plastic connectors very easy. It's specifically made for this exact purpose, for all electronic connectors and electrical connections. Good stuff !!!!
My issue was the red main power connector going into the tipm. Lights and speedometer would flicker and act crazy. I tried everything. It happened again and I removed the battery, tipped tipm over and wiggled main wire. Worked like a champ. About every 3 months I do this. Trying to find a permanent solder or connect to fabricate.
Mine is doing same thing. Speedo goes to zero with a ding abs light comes on Parking brake light comes on.
@@1baybrook1Did you get the speedo and tach issue fixed? I have the exact issue on a 2011 Durango but have check the tipm yet.
This really worked? I just did everything in this video because my 2011 Chrysler 200 will randomly have lights flicker and say low-voltage and then eventually it’ll put me into limp mode. I have to clear the code with my OBD reader and then it will drive for like 20 minutes and then it’ll happen again.
My experience... when odd electical issues arise, the culprit is usually a bad ground. Check you ground straps. All of then but the engine compartment ones for sure. Chances are they're missing.
Yes. Bad/poor grounding is just so easy to overlook.
@@thomaslanik7215 easy enough to diag. use ground straight from battery with a test light
Great video I watched another one about it. Kinda confused. I thought you had to leave the TIPM plugged in to fully drain it. Thanks.
I'm having issues with my running lights. Mainly the tail lights, tag lights and interior lights in my '14 Jeep Patriot. They'll flicker 3-5 times and then shut off. My brake lights and hazards still work though. Checked all the fuses, all are good. Checked to see if it was the tag lights, still good. Not the radio either. Have no clue what to do now, except hope this works.
Having this same issue in 2010 Liberty; did this work for you?
One other HUGE recommendation; NEVER, ever wash or get wet in any way the engine bay area, especially the TIPM or any fuse box, electrical wiring, etc. ESPECIALLY do not ever use a POWER WASHER !!!!!!! None of the wiring connections were made to withstand the high pressure water jet produced by a power washer.
Why do you have to remove the TIPM to perform a hard reset? The reset is done by disconnecting the battery, which cuts power to the TIPM and allows it to reboot. The process involves disconnecting the negative battery terminal, waiting for 15-20 minutes, and then reconnecting it-this effectively resets the TIPM without needing to remove it from the vehicle.
I thought of that right away when I saw this video it's informative the thing is awesome too unfortunately my disassembling stuff like that is not possible anymore fortunately I get the idea where I can just disconnect the battery cables And clamp the battery cables together
hopefully it will work
Hi great video, is there anything that needs reprogramming after you do a hard reset?
I installed a used alternator got no crank still had issues with jump starting all the time figured for sure it was the alternator doing your hard start right now and we'll see.
Hello! I have a 2006 Sebring that I just bought used. Oddly, the horn was disconnected. I wondered why. The car began throwing a cam shaft sensor code and engine light came on. and I couldn't drive over 2300 rpms or 60 mph. Had the sensor replaced and two days later did the same thing. Sitting overnight, the check engine light goes out and drives fine. This has repeated itself a few times. Now, the low beams and fog lights stopped working. I'm suspecting a hard reset is in order.
Do I need to disconnect the TIPM or may I just short the battery out overnight without disconnecting the TIPM? Thank you in advance.
He did not short battery he conected the cables that gontonthe batteries together aftervdisconecting from battery
Question = when doing hard reset,,do you tie batt cables together while tipm is still plugged in? if so, do i need to wait a period of time before unplugging Tipm ? does it matter?
Hey boss. Not my video but you tie them together after you unplug the tipm. Take all power away so there’s so stored memory to it.
My heat system wasn't working properly. The fan motors would turn on and off.. we replaced the hoses as they were old. As well as the main console piece. But still, the heat issue persisted. After hours of diagnostics, they FINALLY realized it was the TIPM. They went and checked every connection first which cost me like $300.. wish they had scanned the computer system first!
Wondering if they tried a hard reset.. they want to replace it.
Hi what year van do you have? My vent position control doesnt work properly and cant regulate the heat either. Di they replace the tipm? My van is 2009
@@donaldholder2434 2012. Overall they had to replace the hoses, Tpim and the thermostat.. it was quite a hassle and the AC works but is kinda weak (so likely will need a recharge of frion soon, or just a permanent vacation at the junkyard haha)
I would also be suspicious of the blend door gear/gears failing. That will cause the fan to cycle off and on, plus not change from hot to cold as well. This was my Cherokee's issue.
I have a 2007 Chrysler PT cruiser convertible. It’s in limp mode right now it would it be my tipm might need a hard reset
Would this work if my rt side trailer signal isn't working? The wires on the trailer shorted out the TIPM? I know its the issue because I replace the TIPM with another one and the rt side trailer lights worked, I fixed the trailer wiring before I did this. However this caused my 4x4 to go out and no trailer running lights. so its not a good TIPM replacement. I'm just trying to get my original TIPM fixed, any help would be appreciated Thanks.
Clamping the battery cables together?is that what you just said ?
Yeah, with out the battery in there, there won’t be any power going thru them or the system.
When you perform hard reset will this also allow ODB2 power to start working? My battery went bad cause alternator replace both and now ODB2 has no power. All my fuses are good van runs perfect. Just no power to ODB2 which is a problem for emission testing
Thanks for this video! I don’t have the means to take my Jeep Liberty to the dealer and actually replaced my own alternator last year lol!
My car stalled out while driving and it won’t keep a jump start, so I figured this TIPM may be the culprit afte researching the issues.
Are there any dealer codes needed after doing this hard reset?
P.S. The battery was replaced when I did the alternator only a year ago 10/21 and neither should be the issue I don’t think.
All the lights come on and some blink, some stay on and are really dim etc. and the battery charge seemed fine when I had it checked the day before.
@Galactic Misfit hi, just curious if you are still having the problem with your liberty? Was the tipm the problem?
Check battery level regardless. If the TIPM is acting up, it will draw charge to systems without the car/alternator running draining it, as you know.
I just did this reset and instantly drove my truck after no issues, even cleared a nagging p0138 code for engine Temps because the truck was acting like it wasn't getting to temp. It was.
Had an abs light on after the reset but turned off within 1 minute of driving.
Also noticed my eco boost activates more since doing this.
Will do an update on comments here if I have issues with it over the next month or two.
If I don't comment, shit went good.
No codes no reprogram. Just unplug, set it down for a few hours , replug and go.
I was surprised it was so easy.
@@SpencerJ87hanks @SpencerJ87! I love it when people take the time to reply and really respond to the original post. People are always in such a hurry anymore, but you took the time and I just wanted to acknowledge you and say how much I appreciate you. Your detailed information is going to help me tremendously.
Hopefully, your information pertains to my 2016 Chrysler Town and Country, but regardless, I'm going to have to give it a shot, bcuz after replacing my oil filter housing unit, spark plugs and ignition coils, my vehicle doesn't even try to crank over.
Plus, before my manifold drowned out in oil, my key fob quit working and I can only access my vehicle with the hidden key. Then I started getting a 'damaged key' every time I inserted the key fob. Also acting up was/is my window controller, as was/is my driver's side seat controller. It really sucks when you can't tip your seat back backwards.
Hopefully, this hard reset will clear up these issues and I can get back on the road again!!
Thank you, again, for taking the time to post your findings!!
After doing this sale the car and never buy a Chrysler product again. This will permanently fix your issue.
This is the answer
That’s what I tell people. Every manufacturer has issues in different areas but I’ll takes shitty “hard parts” over shitty electronics/software any day.
I have a crank no start on my 2005 2.4lt dodge caravan and will fire 1 time when you stop cranking on it
crankshaft positioning sensor
Lost both of my low beam headlights, I am hoping this will help.
Did it work
@@erichmmiiiable I have not done this yet. The truck is mostly used for snowplowing out in the bush so it's not that critical yet. I need to get at it though.
Chrysler 200 (2011) I'm having the same problem. Next on my "things to try list" is unplugging everything and look for corroded or melted connectors. Has anyone had a similar experience? Oh, and Yeah, both bulbs are new, tested good.
@@ashtabula4wd Still limping along trying to get home before dark. My high beams are not that strong anyway. I hope you get your problem sorted out.
What does resetting the tipm accomplish? Also what part of this is the reset? Disconnecting the battery or the module?
I have the 06. If you do a hard reset is the any chance it would need to be programmed(reset erase everything)
Did you get it fixed ?
What’d you do if so ?
What does resetting the TIPM change? Once you've reset it, is there anything to do or watch out for getting the truck running again? Did you remove the TIPM to clean things up, and spray the connections?
I have question I noticed after the hard reset u try crank it was still hard to get van cranked . So did it finally start or what? Do u have get pcm flashed?
I have a 2014 Town and Country van. It's started out that the engine light can on, I did a scan and it said to replace the Cadlic converter. Then after it said to replace the oxygen sensors on the converter. Now the dash lights and on, no blinkers, heated seats don't work, no speedometer, no mileage, no gas signal. Not sure what it is, costing me allot of money just to figure it out. If I clean out the tipm, or replace it, do I have to reset the computer? Plus the lead on the ECMS looks like it might not be on correctly. Could that be the cause???
I tried ordering a “FCM” located in front of the fuse box because I thought that was the issue but was told that will not fix the issue I’m having. I have 04 dodge grand caravan sxt and the power doors an trunk lid don’t work automatically but the main concern is with the key fob if u unlock or lock it’ll make the sound but won’t do anything. You have to unlock an lock manually. I reset the “iod” fuse I believe it was an it worked a few times after that an failed again I did this over an over also put both battery cables together like u did in video for maybe 1 min an it also worked for a handful of times an stopped locking automatically I have not tried doing all the steps u did in video . Could my issue be related ? Please get back to me I would appreciate it thanks for your time
the comb switch on steering wheele switch seems to have been turned to far to many times.
thats life/ wipers got jumped and the grey buss fuse is accesable ; well kind-a. I can live with it; so the wippers do work.,
most rubbing alcohol has 70% alcohol and 30% water , use 99.99% alcohol
Good advice and it's cheap- find in any drug aisle
OK this is probably my problem. I’m hoping I guess. I have a 2011 Chrysler 200 convertible and I keep getting “low voltage code” And sometimes the car goes into limp mode. Do you think this could be the problem?
It shoulder take more than a hour max for your cars system to drain
I am having the power surges, lights surging, stalling, not wanting to start issues. Mechanic has replaced both the batteries and now my alternator. Now saying the bad alternator "took out" my TIPM and I need a new one. As much as I would love to dump thousands of dollars I dont have into a car I just bought a few months ago, I am going to try this. But this dodge durango 2016 has TWO batteries. Will I need to disconnect both of them for this hard reset of the TIPM to work?
Great vid✨ Thank you 🙏🏾
Thanks for the video. I had my local mechanic replace my TIPM as the dashboard lights were all flickering. Now that I got the new TIPM replaced, the dashboard lights are back at it again flickering. The vehicle drives. What should I do ?
Hold your mechanic accountable for the issue you paid to have resolved. Question the mechanic to see if the TIPM was ever bad the first time-They aren't cheap. If not satisfied take all future issues to a better mechanic. However again, accountibilty for this issue, and maybe no more new bussiness for this mechanic from you.
Don't buy a Fiat Dodge Chrysler but if you do...buy 2 of them...one for spare parts cuz they're junk!
@@118chosen9 Ford has the same tipm... GM probably does as well .
If you use rubbing alcohol, make sure it's isopropyl alcohol. Never use ethyl alcohol as it will damage plastics and cause problems
@@118chosen9 well said 🤣🤣🤣
Can I test/troubleshoot the tipm with a multimeter?
You COULD. But it would actually take you more time to do that and you'd end up having a meltdown looking through wiring diagrams or online for wire pinouts. This will take maybe 2 hours for a less experienced "youtube university" mechanics. Then eave it over night and about 20 mins putting back together. If you know how.to use a ratchet and have all the tools you need it won't take ore than an hour to do the initial stuff. The important thing is to clean those contacts! Dodge didn't do a good job of sealing the bottom of the tipm and it's right above the wheel well 🙄🙄 engineers...
Anyway. Good luck. Take your time. Don't rush it. You're saving yourself 400+ dollars bybeing patient and working slow..
I have a Dodge Avenger 2014 4cy with a U0141 error code. Is the TIPM my problem? Thanks
Awesome! Nicely produced. Great intel.
i know im randomly asking but does someone know of a trick to get back into an Instagram account..?
I was dumb forgot my login password. I love any tricks you can give me
@Jaden Peyton instablaster =)
@Xander Skylar Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site on google and Im trying it out atm.
Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Xander Skylar it worked and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thank you so much, you saved my account !
@Jaden Peyton No problem :D
QUESTION---- CAN A HARD RESET BE AS GOOD AS REPLACING THEE TIPM???????????? DOES ANYONE KNOW????? MY 2014 ,,,630,000 MILES JUST QUITS RUNNING all the time ,,, 10 minutes to start it back up
I see a question that im curious about too before i try. Will i need another key programmed, because i already paid 150$ for mine.
Nope. Nothing needs flashed or anything. I’m doing this now too, I even checked with the dealer to confirm
Hello thank you for the video. I have 2012 dodge durango and I have done the re-set and it will start after that but it does turn on and also the wipers turn on by them self and the a few lights comes on an d off as well on the dash board. You think is the TIPM?
Thanks.
Why does the tipm need to be disconnected from all wiring? It would see that disconnecting the battery would remove power source and allow reset?
I assume that it was done so that the connections could be checked out and greased.I do agree with you though
because its an electronic and unplugging and replugging things in always magically fixes every thing
@@zenthia don't forget the turning off and on method, can't tell you how many times this has worked.
Do you need to disconnect the tipm or is the battery part enough?
Did u find your answer?
Car stalling intermediately on my wife with light and everything still on , sometimes while driving and sometime while in park sometimes it starts right back up other times 15 min - 2or3 hours later. always everything powers up but no crank and no start, mechanic tell me its the computer so i change the computer but the next day it stalls while warming up but starts right back up so im thinking it wasnt the computer . i drove around for a few days and while everything is driving smoothly and im thinking that last time must of been a fluke , i turned the corner and it stalled right in front of my dentist office in the middle of the road and would not crank but everything else was on, i had no tools or tester in the car at the time . i even heard the fuel pump come on but no crank. so i popped hood and started wiggling wires but nothing. then i started thinking maybe it was the TIPM so i banged it hard two times and wiggled the whole box because i had no tools with me and it started right up. i pulled into the dentists driveway 30 feet away and it stalled again right away blocking everyone in with no crank so i popped the hood again and smacked the TIPM IPM fuse box again and it started right up so i could drive home. so i think im going in the right direction with this TIPM . i probably will try to remove it and clean the connections and reset it like on this video. i will let you know how it works out.
update, when i removed the tipm and ipm fuse box under the hood i found a nest of acorns from a squirrel and wires bitten up and corroded from where the were bit into. i live by the ocean water, so it doesnt take much for open copper wire to corrode. i fix the all the obvious damaged area but i saw one small tear in wire covering so i was just about to tape it and call it a day, but i decided to cut it and repair it , im so glad i did because the wire was all corred under the sleeve of the wire were it had a tiny tear in covering . i repaired all that i could and the car has been running great for almost 3 months . i hope this help someone.
@@SAMUEL7.3 Thanks for reporting back!
If it cranks then it started
Will this help fog lights?
Did u check if the bulbs need replaced bcz mine had to, I’m not sure if they have fuse did u check?
I misunderstood what was said
Shorting the POS & NEG battery cables together (in this procedure) to discharge internal capacitors should take...seconds. I am puzzled why it should take any longer. Can anyone tell me otherwise?
Capacitors will still hold internal charges. That is what needs drained. Every diode will need the electricity pulled from them for the system to be completely removed of any charge. The lines and terminals will lose power in seconds. It's the rest that the wait is for.
@@Dew_Rag Good explanation.
Wouldn’t non-conducive grease cause…non-conduction? Seems like the wrong kind of grease.
Conductive grease would short all the connections im assuming. Almost like dipping the connector in water.
Non conductive grease still allows the metal to contact, while protecting from corrosion and not shorting everything
After doing this my car no longer starts
Hi
I'm going to try this. Having some issues with my 2010 caravan.. what a garbage system set up for brain dead assembly line workers to not f it up.. garbage dodge!! Straight 🗑
Typical Chrysler junk.
En espanol
Any dodge is a peace of sht dealership cant fix them independent shops want work on them