Self-Locking French Cleat Mount - How To
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- Опубліковано 6 жов 2024
- To better secure small and light french cleat mounts, I added a self-locking mechanism.
The purpose of the mechanism is to mimic the effects of the cleat being weighed down and so securing the french cleat.
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the author does like to from scratch, shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxD-QRFQz730FJEh4f9BYSf-nkIMIC9hL_ as another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us dont have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we wont be able to practice the full stack project, is still great.
Great idea. The spring idea is cool but takes a lot of time to build. I used a spacer between to top of the movable cleat and the bottom of the next wall cleat. Cut a piece of wood so it fits pretty tight between the top of the shelf cleat and the bottom of the next wall cleat. Split it at about 3 degrees and slide the two pieces together so it wedges against the bottom of the higher wall cleat. Takes about two minutes to make and is easy to remove and reuse.
The wall looks great, and your solution to a common problem with the French Cleat system is very creative and looks really great; but it seems to be very labor intensive. Last year I also dedicated a 16'x4' section to French Cleats backed with two sheets of plywood-it looks just like yours. I've found that most tool holders stay in place. My solution for keeping the smaller ones in place was to attach the cleat on the back of the tool holder about 1/2" down from the the top of the holder, leaving a 1/2" lip. I then slide a small block of wood behind that lip. That block fits snugly between the upper and lower cleats and is kept in place by the 1/2" lip. If the cleats on the wall are all the same distance apart, than all of the locking blocks will be interchangeable.
@monstercawk I'm pretty sure Fred meant labour intensive in comparison to other easier, yet effective solutions...some of which are posted in the other comments.
If I weren't already older than you, I'd want to be you when I grow up!
Seriously, brilliant solutions, as always. Love your channel.
dood. That worktable is amazing. First 30 seconds of you opening that thing up: mind blown.
As some others have mentioned you have totally hit this from an engineers perspective. Light load, needs to be quick and easy to reposition, but secure when it is in position. The best I can come up with is add an angle to both sides of the cleat. Other ideas include a wedge or pin to lock things in place, but are nowheres near as flexible as this. Great work!
I don't quite follow what you mean. Would you mind giving me any further details? Thank you in advance.
A double sided cleat is exactly the thought I had.
This dudes ideas are AMAZING. I want him to come design my shop!
I will echo my comment on your last video... you should have been an engineer! You come up with such creative solutions to problems, I love watching your videos! Thanks for spending the time to film your ideas and sharing them!!
It's probably a little bit over-engineered, but it also seems to work well. I actually think you got the spring tension right. I love how tight and secure it is. Definitely not something you need for every item you hang on the French cleat system, but it seems to work great for some applications.
I like the idea. I have one suggestion. Instead of letting the spring press on the bottom of the top cleat, why don't you get it to lock on top of the next cleat. All you have to do is turn the "moving spring block" around. This will lock into the 45° French cleat and will give you a firm grip, which will not be dependent on the strength of the spring.
Going down you can also just use guides and gravity!
You’re guaranteed the cleat your on is the only reason it’s so it to the cleat you’re on.
For one or two specialized items that's a very nice solution. And, as usual, a great video. For more flexibility you may want to consider something that isn't "fixed" to a specific cleat mount. Some people use a stop block *above* the cleat mount, but your spacing has to be perfect for that to be universal, and there's likely to be some wiggle over time. Find a way to make a block that squeezes tightly into those spaces - and still be easy to remove - and you'll be able to lock down any of them. I'm thinking maybe opposing wedges drawn together with cam lever of come kind.
Excelent idea ! As a french woodworker i like watching your vidéo because i understand every words you say and you are very brillant ! i like the way you are able to find great solutions to problems.
Hi from Greece, I am also a carpenter, We use that system on shelves without the spring a lot, and i think it is enough to hold any weight, But your way is perfect for some strange customers that they don't want it just hanging, a bit more secured in their mind, nice video.
Very creative. I was thinking about something similar but with the locking mechanism upside down and including another piece with a 45 degree angle to lock into the lower cleat. Basically two cleats the lower one is spring loaded
A nice thought, but it won't work. If the spring is pushing down into the lower cleat, it will actually be pushing the whole assembly upward.
If you do it to the strip above, you don't even need a mechanical force -- just a removable piece the exact size of the gap.
Excellent. I will add this to my tool van. Already use French cleats to hold my tools and parts bins, but this would be an added security measure when I’m driving down a country road. The weight seems to hold things down, but one never knows...
This is an awesome idea. Could be mass marketed....a simpler version of your idea would be 2 pivot locks , one per corner. Just attached with 1 screw. Turn to lock , turn to unlock.
But your spring loaded cleat idea is definitely impressive.
I'm sure there are other ways it could be done.
I personally would use your idea, it seems to be of good quality, and possibly could stand up to daily use, but probably meant to not be removed on a regular basis which is another plus. Meaning it would last that much longer.
What a great video, thanks for making these great videos and ideas, I for one appreciate the work you do.
Well I've read a majority of the detractors of your A'ha moment, saying do this or that...BUT I DONT SEE ANY WHERE THAT THEY SUBMITTED A VIDEO TRYING TO IMPROVE ON IT. So thanks for sharing your experiment with the rest of us who will actually put this concept into use.👍
Armchair quarterbacks... the bane of the internet. But if it “A. Works” and “B. You are satisfied with it” then it doesn’t matter what anyone else thinks. I kind of like what this guy has done... maybe not used the middle spring and possibly added some paste wax for lube on the bolts... but generally keep it the same. It is, after all, a prototype.
I had an “expert” armchair QB CNC maker claim that all Openbuilds and Shapeoko CNC machines are overpriced junk and said making your own from scratch is better... yet when I asked him what I could do to improve on my Openbuilds Ox CNC... he went quiet... only to later start whining that something else I did was over complicated... and then suggested a really stupid method in place of what was actually is suggested by the manufacturer. Experts... yeah, right. I don’t argue... I just put them on ignore.
Most of the suggestions i have seen are quite reasonable. I wedge or cam lock would be easier to implement and probably do to the same or better job at holding the cleat in place. Something like in the link below on the bottom/back of the cleat with lock nut would allow him to quickly and easily lock-unlock. So instead of a complicated spring with guides system he only needs a bolt with a large nut that he can righting by hand.
www.myerswoodshop.com/blog/clamps
You did good. A good secure camera base will eliminate the little worry in the back of your mind about your expensive equipment falling and being damaged, plus it looks very professional.
You could try a cam on a pivot with a lever. Lever horizontal pokes out the side and the cam has enough room to let the cleat release. Push the lever to vertical twists the cam to be tight against the rail. No springs required.
Ah, glad I scrolled down a bit, that was my thought as an alternative method.
The proof of concept with the springs is good; however, Dan’s a cam lock mechanism idea seems a bit more user friendly in the long run…
Great Channel BTW!
This sort of thing or an even simpler wedge tapped in above it were my thoughts but the wedge would be a seperate piece and require a tool to install whereas the cam would have its own handle and be self sufficient so I’d take the slight complexity for the ease of use. 👍
This is kind of what I was thinking, too. Kind of like a camera tripod plate, you could even have it spring loaded so it snaps shut when you engage it, but that would be needlessly complicated.
Spring loaded pins lighter springs plus the pins would be stronger
Nice idea! There are situation where I see this may be good for: 1) when lateral access is limited like in a crowded space where removing / inserting wedge or wood block may be difficult, 2) items that do not need to be removed frequently, 3) and items that need secure and tight mount (ie portable hinged lights, expensive Bluetooth speaker, etc..). Thanks for sharing!
Seems like a lot of effort when you have a lot of holders to hang on the wall. However if you have something very delicate like calipers or heavy like clamps that could come crashing down it is a great idea. You are always very creative and enginuitive in your designs and have the best ideas in woodworking
Have seen a few solutions to this problem, most of them are simpler to implement, but your method is way cooler and more professional. Definitely worth the effort in building. Imagine you could make these pretty quickly if you set up a production line. Thanks as for sharing!
Your solution works and is very creative. I either slide a spacer in from the side to prevent lifting or I just drive a screw into the cleat to prevent all movement. If I want to move the holder, both methods only take a second to undo/redo.
One more thing I have to do for myself! Your ideas are a great refresher for YT. Thanks, I enjoy watching your every video clip
Brilliant! As an improvement, you could also add handles on each side to make it "front mounting" instead of pushing from the bottom.
I love this...in fact, incorporating your locking system would be the only way I'd do a cleat system in my workshop. I love the flexibility but dislike the chance for tools to fall off because they are not secured. Same concept with peg board. I'd rather have cabinets and drawers and label as needed. Thanks for the tips - it is a joy to see you work and expand your workshop.
Why did you cut the heads off the bolts? It seems to me like you didn't have to. Also, you should extend the length of the push block so it sticks out both sides; allowing your hands better access to disengage the push block when you want to take it down. You could even taper the ends to create room for your fingertips to have better access.
Thanks for the video
Great idea, thanks!
I have a few suggestions in my experience your spring compression should be a little over 50% for your engagement area it's a great idea I would suggest a small slot through the back plate position close to where your thumbs would be which would aid in the removal and perhaps installation of the cleat. Awesome content
Simple and brilliant ! I am, (was) looking for a way to secure a cantilevered arm to support and mobilize a support a dust collection hose.
I have already built a gimbled overhead storage unit from your design.
Thank you for your videos and designs. Well done 👍.
Questa è veramente un'ottima idea. La realizzerò nel prossimo weekend. Il miglior sistema per contrastare la fretta e far cadere tutto. Bravissimo e grazie!
think you got a winner, yes there are other ways to lock it BUT wood being wood gets misinformed "compressed" over time especially if you have a locking system with no give to it. But other then that i think you got a win here. Cool idea. Tip on the dust, just use your air compressor to get rid of it, i find it works really well. But get some real eye protection and dust mask because you will be drowning in dust.
That is a great solution to one of the biggest headaches to french cleats! Plus it could double as a hand strength workout jig. :) Haha!
thats such a brilliant idea for heavier things...nice design
Super cool and useful. Looks fun to put together and doesn't defeat the purpose of the clear system, which, to me, is more about versatility and not constantly shuffling things around. I'll have to give it a go!
Brilliant. Easy to do and not too complex. Secure way to hold your gear and a great idea for the camera mount. I think two springs would be enough to hold securely and if you had a reverse french cleat you could lock it from both ends. Bottom cleat could be built smaller in your original design to utilize a locking mechanism just for this purpose. I will utilize this for my camera work directly over my bench.
Strip of ply above the cleat??
Ingenious. Material and time intensive.
Guess you like doing the things the longest way possible
Pretty cool! You have succeeded in making a "better mousetrap", so to speak. good work!
That’s awesome. I really like that idea and I may use that on my next hanging rack project
A good improvement might be a way to disengage the spring bar from the front. It looked difficult to mount
I saw several other solutions. I don't think any of them were as expensive as this one. However, the convenience of permanent affixation of the locking mechanism is a bonus. The solution I favoured used one bottom block attached to the fixture, and a long progressive wedge is taped into/out of place.
I’m utilizing a double French cleat (one cleat on top and another on bottom) with a spring system much like yours for added stability!
Trey Reedy yeah. Spring mechanism between 2 clets. 45 cut points down and springs points up.
I used holes in the cleats every few inches and cut slots in the shelves that would line up and pop in a dowel
I did very similarly: If you position the dowel hole to be just under the cleat, then you don't need to align anything or add holes in you cleats. Just position the shelf and push in the dowel underneath to lock it in place.
@@jmckl123 My thought exactly...
@@jmckl123 I actually hadnt put the holes in with this in mind initially, they were just to pop dowels in to hang things from, but they found a second use, which is now there primary use =D
Jmck L
....But your solution wouldn’t take more than 1 minute to do! Where’s the fun in that? 😂
Seriously though, yours is brilliantly simple, inexpensive, and doable by anyone who has the tools and gumption to do a French cleat system in the 1st place.
This is not to knock the great ideas and efforts of the OP! Not at all, it is his nice vid that helped get this group thinking and collaboration going, thanks for the vid.
If you put the hole in the removable board below the bottom of the wall cleat it wouldn't need to align with any prefilled holes either, unless you a worried about side to side movement. An angle on the hole would also allow for some pressure to be applied if stability is crucial or a bolt/screw for more permanent fixing.
I faced the same problem and solved it by making small wedges that are slipped in above the mounting and between the cleat above it. When I want to move the mounting, it’s a simple matter of pushing the wedge out, repositioning the mounting and slipping the wedge back in. Virtually no other hardware is necessary, and two wedges can be used from both ends of the mounting if more holding power is needed.
Awesome -- The main reason I've never been a fan of French Cleats! -- Might have to change my mind on French Cleats!
This is an impressive solution. Good work.
Smart. Very smart.
Well done and I know this will only get better.
Greetings from Maryland. Excellent solution. Keep up with your store, you have some helpful, practical and not overly priced tools; and who doesn’t like a new tool? I am a Bosch user which is good to see in your store. I just bought the countersink pilot drills. Keep up the good work.
That is a fantastic idea, beats some of the things I have done to lock the cleats in place, will definitely be using this method.
Great solution to meet with a specific need. I would trim the bottom of the board so that it impacts as few of the cleats below.. You have a great imagination for solutions..
Thank you. The only reason I haven't installed a French cleat system is because of the very problem you have just solved. No excuse now so I'd better order some wood and springs. Brilliant solution.
Awesome design. And modular to work with. Nearly any cleat spacing. Mine are 12" apart, but it wouldn't matter with this design. Awesome simple design. Great work!
I think this build is great because I live in California and we just had another earthquake so having something that's latches to that wall is a great build for shops like mine
This is perfect for my box trucks! I would had a bevel on the bottom of the french cleat as well to provide two locking surfaces.
Awesome design! Best locking mechanism I have seen for a fremch cleat!
Great idea. I'd add a handle to the spring loaded section so it could be disengaged without having to move the entire mount. Once the mount has the weight of the boom arm and camera, it may be too unwieldy to easily unmount.
Thanks for sharing, It's given me a few ideas to think about for my own workshop.
There are solutions & {~Solutions~}. Meaning functional & elaborate. The wood key is functional & low tech / low cost.
The spring block solution is elegant & intricate. For me Wood Key WINS practical. The Spring Block WINS for innovation.
Fortunately in problem solving there is need for both. Well done wood workers, thanks for sharing.
Very good idea, prevents spillage
Very cool and a smart solution. To simplify it, get rid of the guide bolts. The bolts the springs are on are good enough. If you do keep the guide bolts, you don't have to cut the heads off because only one end has to move freely anyway.
Excellent, I lot of work though, just watched one on 3 locking mechanisms that may be a lot simpler, but sure you had a lot of fun!
Pretty cool idea~! Yeah, it may be over-built, but it looks like a fun exercise in creativity.
Hey Jean ! Always enjoy finding South African creators, really like what you're doing ! Howzit from Jozi !
Great idea to make an already good storage system very sturdy. Awesome!
Just when I think, "what other clever solutions could he possibility come up with", he posts another vid. I love it, nice job Jean, as usual
For locking cleats I think maybe it's a bit complicated, except in cases where you want to be able to rapidly remove the item. A wedge based lock seems simpler.
However, your sample piece looks quite a lot like the adjustable cleat spacing jig I'm making! Except that my jig spans two cleats, supporting the bottom of the lower one. Once the lower cleat is affixed, the spring is used to be able to remove the jig.
I think the self locking cleat is a great idea 💡!
I think this is a brilliant solution.
Bonjour, Superbe idée afin de pouvoir bloquer les supports sur les ''french clean''. Merci pour le partage.👍
Brilliant!
I am definitely going to use this idea. I have French Cleats in my garage/shop and my office.
Well done, thanks!
It might be overly complicated for ordinary and average mounts, but it seems to be a good idea for those oddball mounts that require added security such as for what you intended it. Another instance in which this system would probably come in useful is where French cleats have been incorporated into a mobile storage or shop cart. I thought about doing this for a clamp cart to keep it modular. I want to be able to reconfigure the clamp racks as the clamp collection expands over time. I realized I might be pushing my luck using French cleats, but this looks like it might address the issue.
Wouldn't it be simpler to just slide a snug fitting square stick into the gap at the top of the fixture (where your fingers are at 3:04) after it is hung?
Something along those lines using dowels:
ua-cam.com/video/x6I5Bx4M5wc/v-deo.html
I’m sure there are simpler solutions out there, but for an expensive camera I can see putting in the effort! If you back-bevel the bottom edge of the cleat itself, and bevel the leading edge of the moving block in your design, it’ll really lock in.
@Woodshop Junkies, tad late. But I think you need a lever for that spring. So you can pull it down when engaging and disengaging the cleat mount. Looked a bit difficult now, to do it. So, maybe a engage/disengage arm of some sort.
Great video as usual. A simple idea, well presented and an excellent solution to the problem. I always look forward to your presentations.
I used a bar with 45's cut on each end as the locking piece. This was located in the space between the cleats (where his spring assembly is located). A screw through a clearance hole in the plate into the bar was the operating mechanism. Position the bar horizontally, set the cleat in place, and then turn the screw/bar 90 degrees to lock the cleat in place.
The bar needs to be screwed tight enough for some friction with the plate but still allow for rotation. The bar should come close but doesn't have to actually touch the cleats in order to work. It will keep the plate from lifting up or rotating out.
It's hard to describe mechanisms in a few words in this comment section but it really is a simple way to lock the plate to the wall. Not quite as rock-steady as the spring loaded version in the video but it won't get knocked off the cleat which was my goal.
Great solution, but I would give it an improvement. You could add a cleat edge to the bottom (fixed) piece of wood, so when the springs press the wwhole thing down it sits in the next lower level. So you would have two edges holding it to the wall.
Damn, beat me to it.👍
@@charlesdabb1821 me too. I think it would be an easy retrofit.
Brilliant! This will be great for heavier tools. Love it.
My solution: I have made a 10 degree angle under all the cleats on the wall. I use a "lock-bit" on things I want to secure. Easy, fast - but not as hmmm... "delicate" as yours :) But flexible though...
I have also thought about making a "pushblock" in the cleat it selves. Perhaps just a dowel at the right height, underneath the cleat is is hanging on. This could also be a "click-button" thingy...
Great channel!
@@kimsmoke17 Thnx ;)
...but I did not find "my type of button".
I am thinking of a non electrical one, like the top of an old style ball pen marker. Click = extended, click retract... Ifjusee.
Or did I just not find it?
I don't quite understand how your solution works. Any extra details to help? Also, what is a lock-bit? Thank you
If you lowered the cleat on the hanging part, so the top of the backboard ends in upper half of the space between the wallcleats, you can easily lock the item hanging by sliding a wedge in covering the gap from your hanger cleat to the above wallcleat. That is one of the basic ideas with cleats, to evenly space and use same dimentions always, and you can make wedges that fit everywhere too for items you want to lock
That is a really nice concept and very creative idea. I think I might have to agree with your statement of it possibly being a little too complicated, but only if you needed several of them.
Once I have my cleat wall installed, thanks to your ideas and videos, I think I would drill a small hole, and use one of the many things you can insert that are spring loaded on the end, like clevis pins with the ball on each side that has a spring behind each one. Don’t get me wrong, what you made is awesome but you’re so smart and creative that you surpass the necessary. Your ideas just blow my mind.
But if you plan to keep that design, I would suggest cutting two grooves in the front and glue in dowels to move the spring loaded ram from the front. Or maybe I’m overthinking it now? Anyway, keep inspiring us.
I think you are absolutely brilliant!! Great idea to make a good system even better. Thanks for your ingenuity. I will be using your idea in my new shop. 🙏🏻
I like your thinking! In my case, I bought a 3D printer so I could produce my cleat-locking system components in different sizes to suit specific applications. I came up with a system that uses opposing magnets to position the cleats, with the 3D printed parts incorporating cams, printed springs (I experimented with coil and leaf), and steel weights.
The thumbnail was quite self-explanatory, but still watched the entire video because your videos are just that good.
Was just wondering if you even need separate guide bolts. If you just add a nut and washer on the inside of the spring bolts (same way that they are on the guide bolts), then I believe the 3 bolts alone will work as guide bolts for the block as well as holding the spring.
Great idea, love the way your workshop is set up. Thank you.
Very well presented and a good idea if you frequently move cleats around. But it seems like a lot of work. My cleats tend to stay in the same place for long periods as I rarely rearrange them. To anchor them I simply insert a small and easily removed screw that prevents horizontal and vertical movement.
Love the idea. What about putting a 45 on the bottom of the cleat (like the top) and the same for the block connected to the spring. That would require less spring tension and completely lock the attachment to the wall system.
Very nice, I've done something similar but not as robust, did glue a piece of sandpaper on the pusher block to give it a bit of extra grip.
Great idea! I wonder if it could be even stronger of a hold if the spring push block was at a 45 as well to grip the wall cleat better -- but of course then you'd have to redo the wall cleats to add the matching 45s which would be a lot of work
Great idea!
Nice work. Another channel suggests using a dowel to act as a locking pin protruding out from the face going thru to the wall just under the cleat. Quick and dirty and far less superior but some of us are short on time lol
I think it's very clever--but probably too many parts and complication to be practical for most people to pursue. It's still a very neat idea, though, I'm glad you tried it!
That is one cool idea, probably the best one I've seen in a while. I might have to build one or 6 myself. Thank you
Nice Video, very clever idea, I can see myself using the self locking mechanism for small french cleat mounts in my work shed 👍👍
Nice solution and execution! 😎
As for your question at 8:27... I cannot speak from experience, but just by looking at the problem (and knowing myself 😁) I would probably just jam another peace of plywood with improvised handle in between the mount cleat and upper wall cleat. 😁
HAPPY TO SEE THE BEARD IS BACK! There is always more than one solution to a problem, finding the one that works for YOU is where the secret lies! Use it a while and see what other ideas come to mind to fasten it to the wall.
The only thing that seems like you would end up having problems with are the guide pins. They should be smooth which would entail threading at least one end. The other suggestion I have would be to place a groove on the top of the cleat to put your fingers in when trying to remove the cleat from the wall. It doesn't have to be a large groove just large enough to get your fingers barely into. Like the French Cleat wall. Great going and great ideas. Thanks.
That is a really cool video and cool style!!! I love how you arrived at a great solution friend!!!!!
Utterly ingenious and delightful!
All you need to do is make a taller backing plate so that it straddles the wall cleats above and below the location chosen. You then mount your plate to a free cleat section. Since the top and bottom of mounting plate are in contact with the cleats above and below, and won' t be bumped out of the wall cleat it is hung on. Very simple; no springs or gizmos. Your solution is very good, but so much work and stuff to source 8n order to implement.
That is one clever idea, no doubt we will be seeing knock-off versions here on UA-cam soon.
I had a similar idea but couldn't make it as slick as yours and it was too bulky. On mine, I used a spring between the cleat and the rail above, which I slightly french cleated on the bottom as well.
Now seeing your version I think it would be best to have the cleat on a spring and a fixed bototm stop so that you can still use hook and unhook it with one hand. One-handed operation is a big thing for me, although I have two perfectly functioning arms.
Great idea. May help me in my new workshop rebuild.