Use one or two dowels (with a knob), and push through a hole in the tool-holder cleat underneath a lower wall cleat. Requires equidistant spacing of wall cleats and a dummy wall cleat at the bottom. A major benefit is that no access is required from the side and nothing needs to be unscrewed to remove/reposition the tool-holder.
Excellent presentation, thank you. I would choose the second option being the easiest to relocate. I also favour a single dowel just below where the cleats meet.
I'm using French cleats to install my cabinets. I'm glad i ran across this idea. Fast and easy. I'm putting a little cleat where your lower spacer is. I do like your wedge lock on your cleat.
Another option - the wall mounted cleat: double bevel (top & bottom). The, method number two with the "locking block" having the mirror bevel of the wall mounted cleats' bottom bevel. Put a slight angle on the "locking block" such that one edge is ever so slightly wider than the distance between the spacer block and the bottom bevel of the wall mounted cleat. This results in a modified method of choice 2 & 3 and is absolutely rock solid and the wall mounted tool shelf/cabinet (whatever) will just not come off. I hope this made sense. Thanks so much! - Woodprobie
I like the second method, very simple, less angles to make, it seem to be more versatile and less lumber required across the spectrum of the build! James
Locking the french cleats can be especially important here in Cali if you live in any of the earthquake prone areas. I am lucky and live in an area where quakes are very rare but I still take precautions to keep things from falling over. Thanks for the testing and tips!
Another suggestion for locking! Drill a 3/4 hole common in the cleat and in your rack. Use a dowl to pin them in place. You will need to remove the dowl in order to remove the the tool holder from the wall! Cable the dowl to the wall cleat so you don’t loose it!
There are several other ways to accomplish locking a cleat. For a solid yet portable cleat, springs and bolts to guide them work. You simply push the cleat up into place to lock or unlock. A simple cam-lock could also work. It does require a knob of some sort, on the tool cleat, but again, it is easily portable requiring no tools. The solutions you presented are great. I'd likely use a screw or two, drilled right into the wall cleat itself, if you want a really solid, stable lock. After all, you're in a shop. What are the chances you wouldn't have a drill and some wood screws handy?
EXTREMELY HELPFUL!! Thanks for the vid. I do Lawn care/Handyman work. So I was trying to figure out how to make my (Ron Paulk inspired) enclosed trailer "modular" by using a French cleat system where I can reconfigure my trailer but it be secured while driving. One set-up for Handyman and one set-up for Lawn Care (where I have to fit a 48" exmark). I think I will use method #3, but with a screw, for my wall hanging shelves. BTW, I think this is the first time I've ever commented on a video but I couldn't resist because it was so applicable to what I needed. THANKS
Hi from the UK, I am big on woodworking and storage so seeing your videos for the first time was exciting. Well I was not disappointed, you make everything easy to understand and make. Thank you so much for these and I look forward to watching them all. I subscribed my friend. 👏👏
Great video. Thanks. I use a triple cleat system with 2 support rail cleats inverted to each other and the tool holder part having two 45 degree bevels to fit between the rails. Solid holding, smaller rails and can cut bevels on a router. Works very well.
Enjoyed your channel for a while now. I've planned on useing the French cleats for tools. I am going to use a (one) dole to lock the cleat into place attached by a string. Then I wont have to look for a dole.
I love that we all can come up with many ways to solve a problem. I like the traditional joinery method. I to came up with a solution on one of my videos. Great job on your video👍
What I meant by using screws is going right into the cleat. No spacer required. Just put the holder on the wall where you want it - pin with a screw through the holder into the cleat. It is crude but fine for the shop IMO.
If you make the wedge angle much more shallow and leave the mating faces rough that and a tap with Birmingham screwdriver will make sure it stays in place
Very interesting. (Say that with a German accent!) However, I have a hard time coming up with a reason for using a 'lock' on a French cleat. The beauty of using French cleats is that the weight of the cabinet (or tool holder) locks it in place. The greater the weight (assuming your cleat can hold the weight), the more securely the item is 'locked' to the wall. To move the item, you first have to relieve the item's weight from the cleat. That's NOT going to happen if you just accidentally bump into the item. Nor is it going to happen from the vibration generated by the use of power tools. It might happen with an earthquake, but none of the methods of hanging something to a wall are earthquake proof!
Agreed! Some folks brought up the issue of grabbing a tool and it causing the cleat to dislodge which led to the solutions discussed in this video! Thank for watching!
There are some cases where removing the tool lifts the hanger slightly. I have a magnetic strip holding some small hand tools (pliers, scissors, screwdrivers) above the workbench and unless you pull down and away the cleat will dislodge, the other one is a holder that has a thin metal strip that tape measures clip onto. Lifting the tape dislodges the cleat. I added a small locking block between the top of the tool cleat and the bottom of the next wall cleat. The wedge system works perfectly because it does not rely one another wall cleat to work. .
Thanks for the video, I'm in the process of constructing my french cleat wall and this has helped tremendously! I think on balance I will use the screw method (1) on mine, as you pointed out methods 2 and 3 require room for the spacers to be placed in position and space is of a premium in my case. Much appreciated advice, thanks again,
If your wall cleats are closer than those in the video, the wedge could be above or below (not behind) the tool holder. Eg above the cleat that goes on tool holder and the wall cleat above. You would cut wall cleat and tool cleat and wedge at angle so wedge doesn't fall out.
I know this is getting a little bit older.. but here's and idea that works well and is quick, easy and cheap. Just not sure if I can explain with out a visual. First have a short loose piece of cleat exactly the size of the wall cleat handy as a jig. -Turn tool holder (item to be hung) over where your looking at the back side with the "hanger" cleat already installed. -Put your wall cleat jig temporarily in place against your hanger cleat (with the mitre's meeting) as if it was hanging on the wall. The jig is just acting as a spacer. -Now grab any small block (off the floor under one of your saws ..for me) maybe 1" or 1-1/2" x 3" or 4" that's 3/4" thick or same thickness as your cleats. -Miter one corner off (45°) 1/2 the width of your block (so on a 1" block, 1/2" x 1/2" corner clipped off (like one side of a dog eared fence pickit top if that helps) -Drill a small hole in the center of your mitred block. -Lay the block vertically under your spacer jig (example 1" wide 3" up and down) flush with the tool holders left edge and pushed up against the spacer jig with the mitered corner at top left. (Where the clipped corner is pointed up and toward the tool hanger edge) -Drive a 1-1/4" (or length needed) bugle or counter sink head screw through the hole and into tool hanger without going through. -Twist the block 1/4 turn clockwise to the horizontal position to release the spacer jig. So we've created sort of a pivoting wedge lock.. hook it over the wall cleat and push down on the lever to lock. Push in on the top of lever to unlock. One for small fixtures and one on each side for wider larger fixtures.. different sizes per what's needed. Bottom end can be a tad longer for more leverage. Can't see it from the front, don't need as much side clearance to install, quick and easy with a small trash cut off scraps. Sorry so long, hard to explain clearly (hopefully clearly) without a lot of description. Hope it helps.
@@lastingbuild1373 Is there a reason I'm not thinking of as to why we haven't thought of dropping a block between your tool hanger cleat and the next wall cleat above your fixture? Wouldn't this in the same way prevent the hanger cleat from sliding up or pivoting off, and in the same way force the two miters to stay mated together. This would be mostly hidden behind the hanger and tools, be installed over the top requiring no side access and allowing you to hang them against each other. Could also act as a back spacer for a small fixture above. Super simple and easy access. Also if all wall and hanger cleats were the same width and spacing the blocking material would always be the same. You could keep a small stock of it ripped and ready to use.. just cut length needed, throw it in and done. Thought of this on the way to work this morning and not thinking of a reason why it wouldn't work?
For all three methods you need space on one or even two (method 3) sides of the holder. When you screw straight into the wall cleat no space on the sides is required.
Thank you for your helpful tips. Just made my first long narrow shelf in my kitchen to store tea caddy etc. Initially it seemed to fit well but as it was a little high I moved it down and its not working. I suspect it is wall support that missing and it needs a bracket of sorts. Advice appreciated.
I think the main reason i want or wanted a fench cleat system per say was the mobility, i could pull off and move to where i wanted it. remember the kiss method .....i think the french cleat is really simple and very functionable the it was designed...also remember the weight of our tools is what makes it tighten up and stay put. LoL ! just my 2 cents worth ......keep up the great work brother !
Nice video, but quick question on method #1, why not just push the spacer up and add the screws. This would eliminate duplicate blocks. Keep up the good work
nice. you should check out woodshop junkies locking french cleat build. he uses sort of like springs like on those hand strengtheners that guitar players use... it is really neat, but still a bit more involved than i will do. i will likely just use the spacer between bottom of board and spacer like your number 2. thanks for sharing
The screw method has one advantage you didn’t mention that I recall. You can do multiple cleats next to each other and take the middle one out if needed. I’m surprised you didn’t mention a spring loaded version.
I too think the traditional joinery wedge, except I can't see any reason to worry about locking the french cleat. Unless there is going to be upward force applied to the hanger, it's own weight and the weight of the items it is holding should keep it pretty much where you put it. I like the traditional joinery first, and the wedge lock second. To me, the main disadvantage of all the locks except the screw down lock is that there has to be unused space to one side of the tool holder. Depending on the size of the wall, that could be a lot of unused space. Screwing down the lock seems to eliminate one of the main advantages of french cleats; easy rearrangement. I can't imagine a reason to use that method.
My air line filter is on a locking holder as it has QR disconnects and needs to be move sometimes, also the roles of air hose are on small locking peg holders
After watching your videos I'm a convert to the French cleat system. When I get round to installing some in my workshop I'm wondering whether some sort of cam based lock mechanism may do a job. If it works it will be self contained within the footprint of the holder and permanently attached, so won't get lost. When I get round to trying it I'll let you know the results.
With my French cleats I haven't taken the time to do the walls completely, I just add a 2440mm section, or shorter as needed. I also use much thinner cleats, 45mm high by 20mm deep are plenty strong enough. Also mostly I have them spaced much further apart, at the moment 300mm and 500mm. This allows tools to hang down. I can easily add another between if I find a need, but haven't so far.
The nice thing with #3 is the space needed to remove the cleat. Without moving #1 or #3, try to remove #2 from the wall. Now swap #2 & #3 and try to remove #3 (which is now in the middle) from the wall.
I like all of these ideas. The only thing I noticed is that you struggled to grab the wedges when pulling them out. You can fix that by drilling a small finger hole near the edge for a better grip.
Outstanding. I am in progress on my project and will probably have some shelves locked, but others not - simply due to the weight they won't be likely to move. I like the joinery method as well. off topic question though, I see you have hold-fasts in your bench. Can you share which they are, your success with them,, how thick is your bench? I'm building some MFT style tops and would like to use holdfasts instead of other types of surface clamps but have seen some different feedback on how thick the workbench top needs to be. Just interested in your mileage. Thanks!
Maybe someone already pointed this out but with the third method I would put the "fixed" wedge on the top and the sliding one on the bottom. If the sliding wedge is on the top it could loosen with vibration or bumping it and it could then slide out. Just a thought...
You have some great ideas! The cleat wedge is also a great idea. Over time will it vibrate loose? Again with some type of locking device to hold it in place that would be great!!
I’ve been enjoying your French cleat videos. I am just starting to build my own system. I have to ask you though, you were an NCO? Your teaching methods are just like I learned as a NCO in the Army.
In method number two with the wedge, make the wedge and spacer using a French cleat cut the other way. This will keep the wedge against your tool holder even if your tolerances are off by a little bit. The spacer would need to have a taper down towards the front of the tool holder and the wedge would be the matching angle. Kind of like a double French cleat.
Drill a hole in your hanger just below the bottom of the cleat and stick in a piece of dowel. Have the dowel stick out just a bit so you can grab and remove with pliers. This gets ride of the lateral challenge of sliding in wedges when your hangers are close together.
I I noticed that you were using the DeWalt flexvolt sliding compound saw. How long have you had it and how is it holding up? I purchased one a couple of years ago and it quit working within a week. I had no problems returning it but I've since been leery of purchasing another. Thanks in advance.
I just drill a clearence hole for a brad nail right through shelf and wall cleat so enough nail sticks out so i can pull the brad nail with my fingers to remove holder from wall, if it has to go to a new location just drill another hole for nail. or other method use a screw into wall plate they don't move. Keep it simple i think
I think the traditional joinery wedge is my favorite as well A question and a little constructive criticism if you don't mind. Are you using any type of external microphone? Your voice is amazing and perfect for this work but it sounds like you're having to use the onboard recording audio and talking so loud makes your voice kind of harsh to listen to. I'm thinking a lapel microphone might really up the quality of your videos.
I have a unique workshop where the previous owners insulated with pink fiberglass then put 1.5 inch white Styrofoam over the studs, then sheetrock. I want to start creating French cleats but am concerned about the gap between the stud and the sheetrock allowing the cleats to sag down. I was encouraged to cover my walls with 1/2 or 3/4 inch thick plywood or OSB over the sheetrock and then attach the cleats to that. Your thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
Im not a contractor or engineer but I would think you could screw your wall cleats right up against the drywall with long screws into studs. You could also mount your cleats to plywood then screw the whole thing to wall.
I'm building a french cleat wall now and all the "locking cleat" videos seem like overkill to me. I plan use the wall without locks until things are in a configuration that works for me. Then a screw or two per holder to lock things down. They're still easy to remove (assuming you have one those fancy drills that goes in reverse) and you have no extra pieces to cut (some of which would need to be sized and/or angled carefully). Plus, how do you deal with getting those locks in when there's not enough horizontal space between your holders? Screw it and be done with it. And no, I couldn't care less if my wall cleats have screw holes in them.
How do u make the back board for the cleat to on? I understand how to make the cleat, that’s just molting a 45 degree angle but I don’t understand how you made the back board for it to lock on?
Bro, why make things so complicated? I've been using French cleats for, literally, decades. In my shop, I repurposed kitchen cabinets. I simply installed the top cleat at the back of the cabinet's exterior with a 45 degree angle and the spacer bar at the bottom and ran one screw through the inside of the cabinet and top cleat, thus locking the cabinet in. I could store very heavy tools and supplies in those cabinets. Of course, you have to make sure your 45° angle wall cleat is mounted and screwed into the studs. If you need to remove it, simply remove the single screw at the back of the cabinet. Or, in your case, the single screw at the back of the tool board. The last two methods that you described require, as you pointed out, access from the side. Using the single screw method, you simply install the cabinets side by side, with the option of having no spacing between them and run the screw to mount it.
I like method 3 as well for you don't have to worry about tool holder moving sideways but wondered after multiple replacement and usage of the actual tool, does the wedge start to slide out of the spacer?
That must mean you don’t have many issues with bumping and movement of the tool cleats without the locking mechanism. Good to know. Thanks. Great demonstration!
You there is one method you missed making an L shape that would screw on the side and lock down over your cleat holder on the wall. That will keep it from falling off the wall also, it just flips down and locks in place on the side of your tool cabinet.
The best cleat locking method I've seen to-date, is to back-cut your wall cleat bottom at 10°, then on your tool holder's cleat, you create a matching 10° back-cut, and then cut a keystone shaped wedge that has its own 10° back-cuts, so it can't slide out, can't pop out. You can see that at 5m10s here: ua-cam.com/video/-i4JaG0GUYs/v-deo.html#t=5m10s
I will be devils advocate. Screws would be the absolute best way to ensure it does not fall if security is you concern. A little more time setting up method 2 would make it so similar to the 'traditional' that I would not have a preference. First time I saw french cleats was in Europe in the 70's. Used to hang kitchen cabinets and they had to locks and a lot of weight.
Do not build a French cleat tool wall without this 👉👉 🔴 ua-cam.com/video/Gr0aeLaZK1Y/v-deo.html
Use one or two dowels (with a knob), and push through a hole in the tool-holder cleat underneath a lower wall cleat. Requires equidistant spacing of wall cleats and a dummy wall cleat at the bottom. A major benefit is that no access is required from the side and nothing needs to be unscrewed to remove/reposition the tool-holder.
Excellent presentation, thank you. I would choose the second option being the easiest to relocate. I also favour a single dowel just below where the cleats meet.
I'm using French cleats to install my cabinets. I'm glad i ran across this idea. Fast and easy. I'm putting a little cleat where your lower spacer is. I do like your wedge lock on your cleat.
Another option - the wall mounted cleat: double bevel (top & bottom). The, method number two with the "locking block" having the mirror bevel of the wall mounted cleats' bottom bevel. Put a slight angle on the "locking block" such that one edge is ever so slightly wider than the distance between the spacer block and the bottom bevel of the wall mounted cleat. This results in a modified method of choice 2 & 3 and is absolutely rock solid and the wall mounted tool shelf/cabinet (whatever) will just not come off. I hope this made sense. Thanks so much! - Woodprobie
It does! Thanks
I like the second method, very simple, less angles to make, it seem to be more versatile and less lumber required across the spectrum of the build! James
Thanks James!
Thanks for the compare, loving the wedge. Simple, no tools to install or remove and can be adjusted as tight as you want without precise cutting
Thanks for all your French cleat videos.
Sure thing! I think my French cleat mounts will be a never ending project as I collect more tools.
Locking the french cleats can be especially important here in Cali if you live in any of the earthquake prone areas. I am lucky and live in an area where quakes are very rare but I still take precautions to keep things from falling over. Thanks for the testing and tips!
Sure! Good points! Thanks!
Great information! Thanks.
I like the second method for it's ease of repositioning the tool holder without pulling out the key.
I like the #3...it seems easy and it can be moved without tools
Thanks
Very helpful thank you, think I'll go with method #2!
Another suggestion for locking! Drill a 3/4 hole common in the cleat and in your rack. Use a dowl to pin them in place. You will need to remove the dowl in order to remove the the tool holder from the wall! Cable the dowl to the wall cleat so you don’t loose it!
There are several other ways to accomplish locking a cleat. For a solid yet portable cleat, springs and bolts to guide them work. You simply push the cleat up into place to lock or unlock. A simple cam-lock could also work. It does require a knob of some sort, on the tool cleat, but again, it is easily portable requiring no tools. The solutions you presented are great. I'd likely use a screw or two, drilled right into the wall cleat itself, if you want a really solid, stable lock. After all, you're in a shop. What are the chances you wouldn't have a drill and some wood screws handy?
The wedge method is too cool
My favorite too! Thanks
The best is #3 ! God jOb! Regards from Brazil!
Hello! Welcome to my channel! Thanks for commenting!
For my use I will start with the screws, because I suspect my holders will be close together. Thanks man!
Your welcome!
Even in Vienna - Austria your Video is appreciated
EXTREMELY HELPFUL!! Thanks for the vid. I do Lawn care/Handyman work. So I was trying to figure out how to make my (Ron Paulk inspired) enclosed trailer "modular" by using a French cleat system where I can reconfigure my trailer but it be secured while driving. One set-up for Handyman and one set-up for Lawn Care (where I have to fit a 48" exmark). I think I will use method #3, but with a screw, for my wall hanging shelves. BTW, I think this is the first time I've ever commented on a video but I couldn't resist because it was so applicable to what I needed. THANKS
That’s awesome! Never thought about adding cleats to a trailer. Glad you commented and welcome!
The wedge. Thank you for sharing.
Well done video! Very informative and directions are easy to understand. Thank you.
Glad it’s helpful!
I think all three are good depending on how close you arrange the tool holders but I like the traditional joinery method Best
Me too Robert! Thanks for watching!
The traditional one I think. As can be tapped with a mallet to make it tighter. I would use this for all power tools and expensive tools.
Great point!
Hi from the UK, I am big on woodworking and storage so seeing your videos for the first time was exciting. Well I was not disappointed, you make everything easy to understand and make. Thank you so much for these and I look forward to watching them all. I subscribed my friend. 👏👏
Great video. Thanks. I use a triple cleat system with 2 support rail cleats inverted to each other and the tool holder part having two 45 degree bevels to fit between the rails. Solid holding, smaller rails and can cut bevels on a router. Works very well.
Thanks for sharing! That sounds super sturdy!
Enjoyed your channel for a while now. I've planned on useing the French cleats for tools. I am going to use a (one) dole to lock the cleat into place attached by a string. Then I wont have to look for a dole.
Great idea!
People need to watch this before building a french cleat system.
Thanks. Very useful information.
glad its helpful!
I love that we all can come up with many ways to solve a problem. I like the traditional joinery method. I to came up with a solution on one of my videos. Great job on your video👍
Thanks! I’ll check that out!
Same here. I’m about to replace my pegboard with a French cleat wall and your videos have been extremely helpful. Thank you. 👍😎🇦🇺
That’s great! You will not regret adding French cleats to your wall!
And you can still have a pegboard panel to use on the french cleats.
Great! Glad to hear!
What I meant by using screws is going right into the cleat. No spacer required. Just put the holder on the wall where you want it - pin with a screw through the holder into the cleat. It is crude but fine for the shop IMO.
Same method I used for my french cleats.
Good to know and thanks for sharing!
Exactly! So many woodworking tips require tempoary jigs or temporary tacking with multiple screws. We are really overthinking this.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
This would allow for removal of a cleat that is surrounded closely by other tools. Albeit not as quite as pretty as a spacer.
I think you did a great job showing the different set ups. Shop looks great brother
Excellent video.
Thank you very much!
Great timing! I am about to make a french cleat wall! Thanks!
I think the traditional joinery method is my favorite.
Awesome! Look forward to seeing what you create!
Jim I like the wedge method the best
I was just wondering what techniques I might try to lock down a hanging shelf and you provided a great answer!
Cool! Glad it helped!
I liked no 2 then no 1. I can see no no 3 being an issue as it would work loose in time with vibration.
Great video. Cheers
Thanks a bunch! I’m excited to try out #3 soon
If you make the wedge angle much more shallow and leave the mating faces rough that and a tap with Birmingham screwdriver will make sure it stays in place
locking cleats...I like the wedge method
You are definitely selling me on the french cleat method!
Cool! Never heard anyone say they don’t like using it!
Very interesting. (Say that with a German accent!) However, I have a hard time coming up with a reason for using a 'lock' on a French cleat. The beauty of using French cleats is that the weight of the cabinet (or tool holder) locks it in place. The greater the weight (assuming your cleat can hold the weight), the more securely the item is 'locked' to the wall. To move the item, you first have to relieve the item's weight from the cleat. That's NOT going to happen if you just accidentally bump into the item. Nor is it going to happen from the vibration generated by the use of power tools. It might happen with an earthquake, but none of the methods of hanging something to a wall are earthquake proof!
Agreed! Some folks brought up the issue of grabbing a tool and it causing the cleat to dislodge which led to the solutions discussed in this video! Thank for watching!
There are some cases where removing the tool lifts the hanger slightly. I have a magnetic strip holding some small hand tools (pliers, scissors, screwdrivers) above the workbench and unless you pull down and away the cleat will dislodge, the other one is a holder that has a thin metal strip that tape measures clip onto. Lifting the tape dislodges the cleat. I added a small locking block between the top of the tool cleat and the bottom of the next wall cleat. The wedge system works perfectly because it does not rely one another wall cleat to work. .
Thanks for sharing!
@@Rusty_ok great idea! Simple n elegant! Plus it is contrarian: spacer on top instead of a solution focusing on lower side. You made my day! Thanks!
Thanks for the video, I'm in the process of constructing my french cleat wall and this has helped tremendously! I think on balance I will use the screw method (1) on mine, as you pointed out methods 2 and 3 require room for the spacers to be placed in position and space is of a premium in my case. Much appreciated advice, thanks again,
Thanks for watching and sharing your thoughts!
If your wall cleats are closer than those in the video, the wedge could be above or below (not behind) the tool holder. Eg above the cleat that goes on tool holder and the wall cleat above. You would cut wall cleat and tool cleat and wedge at angle so wedge doesn't fall out.
Definitely #3 the true wedge.
Thanks for watching!
I know this is getting a little bit older.. but here's and idea that works well and is quick, easy and cheap. Just not sure if I can explain with out a visual.
First have a short loose piece of cleat exactly the size of the wall cleat handy as a jig.
-Turn tool holder (item to be hung) over where your looking at the back side with the "hanger" cleat already installed.
-Put your wall cleat jig temporarily in place against your hanger cleat (with the mitre's meeting) as if it was hanging on the wall. The jig is just acting as a spacer.
-Now grab any small block (off the floor under one of your saws ..for me) maybe 1" or 1-1/2" x 3" or 4" that's 3/4" thick or same thickness as your cleats.
-Miter one corner off (45°) 1/2 the width of your block (so on a 1" block, 1/2" x 1/2" corner clipped off (like one side of a dog eared fence pickit top if that helps)
-Drill a small hole in the center of your mitred block.
-Lay the block vertically under your spacer jig (example 1" wide 3" up and down) flush with the tool holders left edge and pushed up against the spacer jig with the mitered corner at top left. (Where the clipped corner is pointed up and toward the tool hanger edge)
-Drive a 1-1/4" (or length needed) bugle or counter sink head screw through the hole and into tool hanger without going through.
-Twist the block 1/4 turn clockwise to the horizontal position to release the spacer jig.
So we've created sort of a pivoting wedge lock.. hook it over the wall cleat and push down on the lever to lock. Push in on the top of lever to unlock.
One for small fixtures and one on each side for wider larger fixtures.. different sizes per what's needed. Bottom end can be a tad longer for more leverage.
Can't see it from the front, don't need as much side clearance to install, quick and easy with a small trash cut off scraps.
Sorry so long, hard to explain clearly (hopefully clearly) without a lot of description. Hope it helps.
Thanks for sharing! There is a lot of interest in this topic!
@@lastingbuild1373 Is there a reason I'm not thinking of as to why we haven't thought of dropping a block between your tool hanger cleat and the next wall cleat above your fixture? Wouldn't this in the same way prevent the hanger cleat from sliding up or pivoting off, and in the same way force the two miters to stay mated together.
This would be mostly hidden behind the hanger and tools, be installed over the top requiring no side access and allowing you to hang them against each other. Could also act as a back spacer for a small fixture above. Super simple and easy access. Also if all wall and hanger cleats were the same width and spacing the blocking material would always be the same. You could keep a small stock of it ripped and ready to use.. just cut length needed, throw it in and done.
Thought of this on the way to work this morning and not thinking of a reason why it wouldn't work?
Thanks new subscriber!!!🔥🔥🔥🔥
PAPERGATORZ FEDDUCCA great! Welcome!
Great video. Thanks
All three look good but I have to agree, the traditional method looked the best. No screws, tightest lock and easily removed.
Thanks Michael!
For all three methods you need space on one or even two (method 3) sides of the holder.
When you screw straight into the wall cleat no space on the sides is required.
Good point! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for your helpful tips. Just made my first long narrow shelf in my kitchen to store tea caddy etc. Initially it seemed to fit well but as it was a little high I moved it down and its not working. I suspect it is wall support that missing and it needs a bracket of sorts. Advice appreciated.
The traditional joinery method seems the best to me.
Thanks for watching!
Great series I’d go with #3 wedges. Take Care
Thanks for watching and commenting!
I think the main reason i want or wanted a fench cleat system per say was the mobility, i could pull off and move to where i wanted it.
remember the kiss method .....i think the french cleat is really simple and very functionable the it was designed...also remember the weight of our tools is what makes it tighten up and stay put. LoL ! just my 2 cents worth ......keep up the great work brother !
Thanks. Glad you like!
Great info and testing, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!👍
Nice video, but quick question on method #1, why not just push the spacer up and add the screws. This would eliminate duplicate blocks. Keep up the good work
nice. you should check out woodshop junkies locking french cleat build. he uses sort of like springs like on those hand strengtheners that guitar players use... it is really neat, but still a bit more involved than i will do. i will likely just use the spacer between bottom of board and spacer like your number 2. thanks for sharing
The screw method has one advantage you didn’t mention that I recall. You can do multiple cleats next to each other and take the middle one out if needed. I’m surprised you didn’t mention a spring loaded version.
I too think the traditional joinery wedge, except I can't see any reason to worry about locking the french cleat. Unless there is going to be upward force applied to the hanger, it's own weight and the weight of the items it is holding should keep it pretty much where you put it. I like the traditional joinery first, and the wedge lock second. To me, the main disadvantage of all the locks except the screw down lock is that there has to be unused space to one side of the tool holder. Depending on the size of the wall, that could be a lot of unused space.
Screwing down the lock seems to eliminate one of the main advantages of french cleats; easy rearrangement. I can't imagine a reason to use that method.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts and thanks for watching!
My air line filter is on a locking holder as it has QR disconnects and needs to be move sometimes, also the roles of air hose are on small locking peg holders
That’s cool!
After watching your videos I'm a convert to the French cleat system.
When I get round to installing some in my workshop I'm wondering whether some sort of cam based lock mechanism may do a job. If it works it will be self contained within the footprint of the holder and permanently attached, so won't get lost.
When I get round to trying it I'll let you know the results.
With my French cleats I haven't taken the time to do the walls completely, I just add a 2440mm section, or shorter as needed. I also use much thinner cleats, 45mm high by 20mm deep are plenty strong enough.
Also mostly I have them spaced much further apart, at the moment 300mm and 500mm. This allows tools to hang down. I can easily add another between if I find a need, but haven't so far.
Thanks for sharing!
The nice thing with #3 is the space needed to remove the cleat. Without moving #1 or #3, try to remove #2 from the wall. Now swap #2 & #3 and try to remove #3 (which is now in the middle) from the wall.
I like all of these ideas. The only thing I noticed is that you struggled to grab the wedges when pulling them out. You can fix that by drilling a small finger hole near the edge for a better grip.
Good idea! Thanks
Outstanding. I am in progress on my project and will probably have some shelves locked, but others not - simply due to the weight they won't be likely to move. I like the joinery method as well. off topic question though, I see you have hold-fasts in your bench. Can you share which they are, your success with them,, how thick is your bench? I'm building some MFT style tops and would like to use holdfasts instead of other types of surface clamps but have seen some different feedback on how thick the workbench top needs to be. Just interested in your mileage. Thanks!
Check out these two videos! ua-cam.com/video/GzHMfhUK4R0/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/AWWk8p0cSYg/v-deo.html
My workbench is laminated 2x4’s and I think these two videos will help you out!
Short shelves are the most likely to be knocked up [steady, Mavis!] and in need of a lock.
Maybe someone already pointed this out but with the third method I would put the "fixed" wedge on the top and the sliding one on the bottom. If the sliding wedge is on the top it could loosen with vibration or bumping it and it could then slide out. Just a thought...
Nevermind. I just realized that if you make the top wedge the "fixed" one you will not be able to put the tool holder on the wall cleat. Oops!
Excellent! also prefer the wedge method, though number two may be quicker?
Morning Jim, have a great Easter. Your channel is really growing!
Hey Tim! Happy Easter to you! I’ve had a little luck recently. Barn looking amazing at your place👍
You have some great ideas! The cleat wedge is also a great idea. Over time will it vibrate loose? Again with some type of locking device to hold it in place that would be great!!
I am trying to come up with some ideas for a mobile shop cart using french cleats . Everything on youtube seems to be wall systems
Should b easy enough to mount cleats to side of bench
April wilkerson had a good mobil cart with french cleats
Hello this is junior from Jamaica
Welcome to my channel! Thanks for watching!
I’ve been enjoying your French cleat videos. I am just starting to build my own system. I have to ask you though, you were an NCO? Your teaching methods are just like I learned as a NCO in the Army.
I have never been in the armed forces but I will take your comment as a compliment. Thank you for you service, Tim!
In method number two with the wedge, make the wedge and spacer using a French cleat cut the other way. This will keep the wedge against your tool holder even if your tolerances are off by a little bit. The spacer would need to have a taper down towards the front of the tool holder and the wedge would be the matching angle. Kind of like a double French cleat.
很棒，学到了，谢谢！
this french cleat lock seems more elegant
Thanks for watching and commenting
thinking of making some french cleats myself...
It’s a cool system and you can be as creative as you like! Thanks for watching!
Maybe using 2 top cleats that snap into place on 2 wall cleats at a time?
What about a system using rubber straps with hooks to keep the cleat locked? I use old bicycle tire tubes for things like that around the shop.
Thank you for your videos! Do you finish the wood with anything or leave it bare?
Drill a hole in your hanger just below the bottom of the cleat and stick in a piece of dowel. Have the dowel stick out just a bit so you can grab and remove with pliers. This gets ride of the lateral challenge of sliding in wedges when your hangers are close together.
Thats a good option
I I noticed that you were using the DeWalt flexvolt sliding compound saw. How long have you had it and how is it holding up? I purchased one a couple of years ago and it quit working within a week. I had no problems returning it but I've since been leery of purchasing another. Thanks in advance.
I think the wedge method is the best option...
I like it as well
I just drill a clearence hole for a brad nail right through shelf and wall cleat so enough nail sticks out so i can pull the brad nail with my fingers to remove holder from wall, if it has to go to a new location just drill another hole for nail. or other method use a screw into wall plate they don't move. Keep it simple i think
I think the traditional joinery wedge is my favorite as well
A question and a little constructive criticism if you don't mind. Are you using any type of external microphone? Your voice is amazing and perfect for this work but it sounds like you're having to use the onboard recording audio and talking so loud makes your voice kind of harsh to listen to. I'm thinking a lapel microphone might really up the quality of your videos.
I have both mics. I’ve been lazy and using the camera mount mic lately. Thanks for the reminder and I’ll get the lapel back in use.
@@lastingbuild1373 One Way you may be ablr to improve the sound. ua-cam.com/video/r6gPmWtXdlE/v-deo.html
I like the wedge model best, but you don't need both the spacer and wedge. The bottom wedge alone can serve both purposes.
But did you read this one buddy ;) just giving you a hard time Jim. Good work buddy
Of course
Of course
Of course
how wide are the board mounted base boards? and how far apart are you placing on the wall from the other boards?
Can I use French cleat to hang floating wall plus TV? Is it strong enough
Option 3 joiner method
Traditional FTW!
All 3 would work. The screws seem to me to take away from the ease of moving. I like the last one the best.
Thanks Allen!
I have a unique workshop where the previous owners insulated with pink fiberglass then put 1.5 inch white Styrofoam over the studs, then sheetrock. I want to start creating French cleats but am concerned about the gap between the stud and the sheetrock allowing the cleats to sag down. I was encouraged to cover my walls with 1/2 or 3/4 inch thick plywood or OSB over the sheetrock and then attach the cleats to that. Your thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
Im not a contractor or engineer but I would think you could screw your wall cleats right up against the drywall with long screws into studs. You could also mount your cleats to plywood then screw the whole thing to wall.
I'm building a french cleat wall now and all the "locking cleat" videos seem like overkill to me. I plan use the wall without locks until things are in a configuration that works for me. Then a screw or two per holder to lock things down. They're still easy to remove (assuming you have one those fancy drills that goes in reverse) and you have no extra pieces to cut (some of which would need to be sized and/or angled carefully). Plus, how do you deal with getting those locks in when there's not enough horizontal space between your holders?
Screw it and be done with it.
And no, I couldn't care less if my wall cleats have screw holes in them.
Should work just fine! Good luck!
How do u make the back board for the cleat to on? I understand how to make the cleat, that’s just molting a 45 degree angle but I don’t understand how you made the back board for it to lock on?
Traditional all the way. The other two seems like it would be a little difficult to add or shift around
Thanks David! Good to hear from you!
Bro, why make things so complicated? I've been using French cleats for, literally, decades. In my shop, I repurposed kitchen cabinets. I simply installed the top cleat at the back of the cabinet's exterior with a 45 degree angle and the spacer bar at the bottom and ran one screw through the inside of the cabinet and top cleat, thus locking the cabinet in. I could store very heavy tools and supplies in those cabinets. Of course, you have to make sure your 45° angle wall cleat is mounted and screwed into the studs. If you need to remove it, simply remove the single screw at the back of the cabinet. Or, in your case, the single screw at the back of the tool board. The last two methods that you described require, as you pointed out, access from the side. Using the single screw method, you simply install the cabinets side by side, with the option of having no spacing between them and run the screw to mount it.
the wedge for your planes
Method 2 + Method 3 => Method 4 : insert a "joinery cut wedge" (ie 2 wedges); that way you can unlock from the left or from the right
I would only use the screw methode because if you want to remove a holder in between then the screwmethode is the only one usable.
I like method 3 as well for you don't have to worry about tool holder moving sideways but wondered after multiple replacement and usage of the actual tool, does the wedge start to slide out of the spacer?
Good question! I haven’t used it other than demonstration, yet!
That must mean you don’t have many issues with bumping and movement of the tool cleats without the locking mechanism. Good to know. Thanks. Great demonstration!
You there is one method you missed making an L shape that would screw on the side and lock down over your cleat holder on the wall. That will keep it from falling off the wall also, it just flips down and locks in place on the side of your tool cabinet.
Another viewer has used that method as well!
Yes none of those methods are as good as the dowel pins there's a couple of videos showing it on UA-cam
The best cleat locking method I've seen to-date, is to back-cut your wall cleat bottom at 10°, then on your tool holder's cleat, you create a matching 10° back-cut, and then cut a keystone shaped wedge that has its own 10° back-cuts, so it can't slide out, can't pop out. You can see that at 5m10s here:
ua-cam.com/video/-i4JaG0GUYs/v-deo.html#t=5m10s
Thanks for sharing
I will be devils advocate. Screws would be the absolute best way to ensure it does not fall if security is you concern. A little more time setting up method 2 would make it so similar to the 'traditional' that I would not have a preference. First time I saw french cleats was in Europe in the 70's. Used to hang kitchen cabinets and they had to locks and a lot of weight.
Thanks for sharing and watching!
ps - I like the wedge but on close cleats the wedge would be more like a sliver.
Very true! Thanks for watching and commenting!