Great tutorial mate. I've only had my ST1300 a week, bought from a motorbike dealership. I took my good lady out for a ride this weekend and I don't know whether she'll come on the bike again. The pre load was pretty none existent and her back was in bits, she didn't let on till later as she didn't want to spoil my day. Bless her I've got a good one there. Anyway I contacted the dealer and they're going to check it out. Apparently they have a time served Honda mechanic who'll have a look. Now your excellent video has provided the ammunition I need to take with me just incase they try to fob me off.
Thanks for the video, very clear and easy to follow You don't need new copper washers if you anneal the old ones (heat red hot and dip in water). They get soft again and seal properly.
Thanks for posting these video tutorials ! I have a cherry '03, with just under 30K, and my wife and I occasionally tour. With the bike loaded, and 2 up, I had to turn the adjuster way in. I figured I was going to need a shock in the near future. I only came across this video because I used one of your other videos while changing out the brake, and clutch fluid. My adjuster went about 15 clicks or so before meeting any resistance. Now, 3 clicks, and I now have it set around the standard setting, I didn't need to remove the adjuster knob, and I used a wire tie to hold the hose to another existing thick black wire tie under the seat ( if that makes sense).Thanks again for your time that you take to video your work !!
What a brilliant video making simple of what I thought was a seriously complicated job. My oil and settings were exactly the same (2009 bike with 60K miles) Cant wait to get her on some dry roads and reset the shock. Oil used was fork oil. Only other comment I would add, is that you dont have to remover the adjuster knob and run the risk of losing the ball bearing.... my crosshead screw sheared off through lack of use so I had no choice. Leave the black adjuster knob on ...makes life even simpler! Cheers - many thanks
Great video, you gave me the convidance to do mine today. It was empty and the spring and bearing was missing, but it works great now anyway. Thanks again.
Excellent, its not a hard job, I didn't even know you could do it, until I read an article, but until I read the article I didn't know I had an issue. lol
Massive thanks to Gts garage. Topped mine up this morning and all went well . Brilliant and inspirational video. If you're ever in Dover let me know, I'll buy you a drink. Tim.
I've just bought a cheapish ST1300. I wasn't impressed with the handling at all. It was just damn heavy and at high speed felt dangerously unstable. I saw your video and checked my preload adjuster. 3/4 way in before any resistance! Now it's got oil in and resistance from the get go it's very like a totally different bike. Handling is light and it's stable at high speed. So thankful very much for the post. Beer voucher via PayPal!
We bought our 2004 1300A in July 2018 and the adjuster was wound all the way out meaning no preload at all. Just as well I had the owners manual in PDF form and adjusted both the preload and rebound to suggested settings. So far it seems okay even when I have my partner on board.
Hi, Just to make it easyer, it's no need to remove the knob and the little ball.Just undo i up until the the soft position, then, with a screw driver push down the piston, an fill it with LHM hyd fluid, and that's it !
Sorry, what is LHM hyd fluid ?? Apologize for my ignorance, but trying to do this job on my 04 st and don’t know what fluid or weight to purchase , thanks in advance….
@@Crazygaucho62 , Hi , no problem, LHM is mineral Hydraulic fluid , specially used by Citroen for the suspensions, it is easy to find . The job is easy to do, just remove the ‘ hyd tank ‘ , put it up side down, put this screw in softer position, then, by the hole, with a fin screw driver push up the inside piston, then refill with LHM, and put the tank back …..finished ! 😉😊💪
Another great video ! I really appreciate it , just got an 04 st it has been sitting for at least 4 years and your videos are a tremendous help brother , what type of oil and or fluid has to be used and what weight. ?
Thanks for the tip! I've just checked mine, I can currently turn it 26 clicks counterclockwise until the fully soft position, so it definitely needs doing. What fork oil weight do you recommend?
David Briche Il utilise de l’huile de fourche. En fait on peut mettre n’importe quelle huile pour système hydraulique (genre huile de cric, de fourche, suspension, atv...)
Hi there from Canada. I was just wondering about the old fluid left in the hose? Obviously you raised the hose to prevent fluid to leak out and air to get in, but shouldn't that fluid be change as well? Is there a way that you know of to change that out?
How much oil could be in the hose? Not much. Without complete disassembly, it isn't coming out. If you were really worried about it, you could flush the hose by doing this procedure and then adjusting all of the way in, run it all of the way out and do it again. The oil in the line will mix with the new fork oil in the chamber on the shock that preloads the shock and be diluted and most of it will come out into the adjuster. Fork oil is sold in liters so you will have enough to do it several times. I will do the job soon.
Hi, .I am trying to remove the center stand and the pivot bolt is absolutely welded to the aluminum casing and wont budge even a micro mm. Any ideas on how to free this to get the center stand off?
Sometimes heat can help break stuff free.. the expanding and contracting can help break the bond. Do a search on UA-cam for technique, will be lots of instruction out there. Worse thing you can do is welly on it for long periods of time.
@@GTsGarage Cheers, I did think of that but i would have to heat the alloy part so that it expanded and the steel pivot bolt would have to remain cold to try to free it and I am nervous about heating the alloy frame which the pivot bolt runs through. i will try to do a search about heating alloys.
@@spillarge if not confident about heating it, there will be spray can solutions available that can probably do the same thing without risk.. spray, leave 24hrs to absorb in, repeat.
Speaking of heating alloys and steel bolts, I use the following procedure: 1. clean the area being worked on. 2. Using your partner’s hair dryer, or a similar heating blower, warm the alloy a bit beyond warm, maybe too hot to touch. 3. Let the area cool slightly, then add penetrating WD40 to both ends of the fastener. 4. Using two wrenches, if possible, alternately SLIGHTLY wiggle in both directions as this will create space inside the joint. 5. Apply torque SLIGHTLY and EVENLY. Add a little more penetrant. Be patient. Recall a peaceful outdoor view. 6. Keep wiggling back and forth, adding penetrant, until the beastly bolt surrenders. 7. This is not a strength contest, as the bolt may all too readily destroy itself under force. How pitiful is that? Hm, not as pitiful as drilling and re-tapping alloy case threads. In that event, Heli-Coil to the rescue! Ride on....
why does it happen, I mean idle clicks ? Does the adjuster lose the fluid in some way ? The other question - is the fluid in the adjuster the same the ammo is filled up ?
A small amount of oil is going to go by the seal on the shock adjuster. Over time it becomes noticeable. It is under pressure on anything but full soft. I got some fork oil last weekend to do the job. I will probably regret it, but I went with heavier weight oil because I hoped it might not get by the seal as easily as the lighter weight oil. It might be harder to turn, but hopefully it won't be noticeable. Thicker oil is noticeable when being quickly forced through small orifices.
Great tutorial mate. I've only had my ST1300 a week, bought from a motorbike dealership. I took my good lady out for a ride this weekend and I don't know whether she'll come on the bike again. The pre load was pretty none existent and her back was in bits, she didn't let on till later as she didn't want to spoil my day. Bless her I've got a good one there. Anyway I contacted the dealer and they're going to check it out. Apparently they have a time served Honda mechanic who'll have a look. Now your excellent video has provided the ammunition I need to take with me just incase they try to fob me off.
Thanks for the video, very clear and easy to follow You don't need new copper washers if you anneal the old ones (heat red hot and dip in water). They get soft again and seal properly.
❤Right on with annealing copper!
Thanks for posting these video tutorials ! I have a cherry '03, with just under 30K, and my wife and I occasionally tour. With the bike loaded, and 2 up, I had to turn the adjuster way in. I figured I was going to need a shock in the near future. I only came across this video because I used one of your other videos while changing out the brake, and clutch fluid. My adjuster went about 15 clicks or so before meeting any resistance. Now, 3 clicks, and I now have it set around the standard setting, I didn't need to remove the adjuster knob, and I used a wire tie to hold the hose to another existing thick black wire tie under the seat ( if that makes sense).Thanks again for your time that you take to video your work !!
Sir if u don't mind whats u and ya wife's weight so I can have a idea if I need a bigger spring? We're around 360 together.
What a brilliant video making simple of what I thought was a seriously complicated job. My oil and settings were exactly the same (2009 bike with 60K miles) Cant wait to get her on some dry roads and reset the shock. Oil used was fork oil. Only other comment I would add, is that you dont have to remover the adjuster knob and run the risk of losing the ball bearing.... my crosshead screw sheared off through lack of use so I had no choice. Leave the black adjuster knob on ...makes life even simpler! Cheers - many thanks
Well done mate you are doing a great service to us poor ignorant people. Keeps going
Just an excellent video detailing everything. So many leave out wrench sizes etc. but you remembered everything. I'll be attempting this shortly.
Great video, you gave me the convidance to do mine today. It was empty and the spring and bearing was missing, but it works great now anyway. Thanks again.
Excellent, its not a hard job, I didn't even know you could do it, until I read an article, but until I read the article I didn't know I had an issue. lol
Massive thanks to Gts garage. Topped mine up this morning and all went well . Brilliant and inspirational video. If you're ever in Dover let me know, I'll buy you a drink. Tim.
Hi Tim, Glad you found it useful, next time i'm in that area, i'll shoot you a message on facebook and see if we can meet up for a natter
@@GTsGarage that would be great, thanks.
GTs Garage Hi mate can I use trolley jack oil
Hello what oil is used thank you
Thank you for the video. I just picked up an '06 and I feel nothing on preload. Will follow your steps for sure.
I've just bought a cheapish ST1300. I wasn't impressed with the handling at all. It was just damn heavy and at high speed felt dangerously unstable. I saw your video and checked my preload adjuster. 3/4 way in before any resistance!
Now it's got oil in and resistance from the get go it's very like a totally different bike. Handling is light and it's stable at high speed.
So thankful very much for the post. Beer voucher via PayPal!
Thank you so much for the beer and the feedback.
@@GTsGarage so far no success sending beer vouchers. PayPal.me/Buckinghamjf is not recognised.
We bought our 2004 1300A in July 2018 and the adjuster was wound all the way out meaning no preload at all. Just as well I had the owners manual in PDF form and adjusted both the preload and rebound to suggested settings. So far it seems okay even when I have my partner on board.
Hello what oil is used thank you
I'd still be looking for the ball bearing...and the 10mm spanner :D
Thanks for the video. Couldn't get the screw out but still worked fine leaving the adjuster on .
I was going to ask if it was necessary to remove the knob. It doesn't appear necessary.
Lovely, thanks GT, just done the job on my Pan, so good to watch and follow.
Hi, Just to make it easyer, it's no need to remove the knob and the little ball.Just undo i up until the the soft position, then, with a screw driver push down the piston, an fill it with LHM hyd fluid, and that's it !
Sorry, what is LHM hyd fluid ?? Apologize for my ignorance, but trying to do this job on my 04 st and don’t know what fluid or weight to purchase , thanks in advance….
@@Crazygaucho62 , Hi , no problem, LHM is mineral Hydraulic fluid , specially used by Citroen for the suspensions, it is easy to find .
The job is easy to do, just remove the ‘ hyd tank ‘ , put it up side down, put this screw in softer position, then, by the hole, with a fin screw driver push up the inside piston, then refill with LHM, and put the tank back …..finished ! 😉😊💪
Very useful and simple video - appreciate it.
ThankYou - Phoenix,AZ
Your welcome, glad it helped. Ride safe fella
Another great video ! I really appreciate it , just got an 04 st it has been sitting for at least 4 years and your videos are a tremendous help brother , what type of oil and or fluid has to be used and what weight. ?
Thanks for the tip! I've just checked mine, I can currently turn it 26 clicks counterclockwise until the fully soft position, so it definitely needs doing. What fork oil weight do you recommend?
I'm looking for maintenance about my st1300 and i don't find video in France. Thanks for your video.
Hi Peio, Welcome, glad you found it useful
Bonjour quel est le fluide pour la suspension arrière qu'on voit sur la vidéo merci
David Briche Il utilise de l’huile de fourche.
En fait on peut mettre n’importe quelle huile pour système hydraulique (genre huile de cric, de fourche, suspension, atv...)
Nice video. What type/weight fluid should be used? Fork oil? 5 wt?
Good video, just wondering if I should buy the seal washer before venturing in?
Well you made that look easy fella :)
Looks pretty much same as VFR00 VTEC from 2002- on. I have same issue...10 clicks before Tension and has around 36 clicks too
Thank-you
Thanks for the info!
Your welcome, glad it was helpful. Ride safe fella.
I just picked up a 2007. I noticed that it was just like yours where it eventually did nothing. The shock can't get as much preload without the fluid.
Hello, this video is on my favorites now, thanks. Just one question, do you see any problem to use DOT5 brake fluid?
Greetings from Brazil!
Hi there from Canada. I was just wondering about the old fluid left in the hose? Obviously you raised the hose to prevent fluid to leak out and air to get in, but shouldn't that fluid be change as well? Is there a way that you know of to change that out?
How much oil could be in the hose? Not much. Without complete disassembly, it isn't coming out. If you were really worried about it, you could flush the hose by doing this procedure and then adjusting all of the way in, run it all of the way out and do it again. The oil in the line will mix with the new fork oil in the chamber on the shock that preloads the shock and be diluted and most of it will come out into the adjuster. Fork oil is sold in liters so you will have enough to do it several times. I will do the job soon.
very nice!
What weight fork oil is recommended Jason?
So 10 clicks clockwise is the factory setting?
Hi, .I am trying to remove the center stand and the pivot bolt is absolutely
welded to the aluminum casing and wont budge even a micro mm. Any ideas
on how to free this to get the center stand off?
Sometimes heat can help break stuff free.. the expanding and contracting can help break the bond. Do a search on UA-cam for technique, will be lots of instruction out there. Worse thing you can do is welly on it for long periods of time.
@@GTsGarage Cheers, I did think of that but i would have to heat the alloy part so that it expanded and the steel pivot bolt would have to remain cold to try to free it and I am nervous about heating the alloy frame which the pivot bolt runs through. i will try to do a search about heating alloys.
@@spillarge if not confident about heating it, there will be spray can solutions available that can probably do the same thing without risk.. spray, leave 24hrs to absorb in, repeat.
Speaking of heating alloys and steel bolts, I use the following procedure: 1. clean the area being worked on. 2. Using your partner’s hair dryer, or a similar heating blower, warm the alloy a bit beyond warm, maybe too hot to touch. 3. Let the area cool slightly, then add penetrating WD40 to both ends of the fastener. 4. Using two wrenches, if possible, alternately SLIGHTLY wiggle in both directions as this will create space inside the joint. 5. Apply torque SLIGHTLY and EVENLY. Add a little more penetrant. Be patient. Recall a peaceful outdoor view. 6. Keep wiggling back and forth, adding penetrant, until the beastly bolt surrenders. 7. This is not a strength contest, as the bolt may all too readily destroy itself under force. How pitiful is that? Hm, not as pitiful as drilling and re-tapping alloy case threads. In that event, Heli-Coil to the rescue! Ride on....
interesting ! and what kind of oil you poured through a syringe?
I've used generic hydraulic oil, like used in a hydraulic jack.
@@steveharleyfan Thank you, comrade, I really think your video and your oil review
My understanding is it can be any oil you have laying around. I think I used fork oil.
Great video, thankd, doing mine soon. Is any fork oil suitable?
I think I used fork oil, my understanding is you can use any oil.
I put in some ATF DexIII and it seems to work great. They're both hydraulics oils basically.
Thank you what oil did you use to replace. Was it a brake fluid?
Warren Fox , no man, fork oil.
why does it happen, I mean idle clicks ? Does the adjuster lose the fluid in some way ?
The other question - is the fluid in the adjuster the same the ammo is filled up ?
No idea why it happens to be honest, just the symptoms. A question for the ST1300 forum guys, someone will definitely know there.
A small amount of oil is going to go by the seal on the shock adjuster. Over time it becomes noticeable. It is under pressure on anything but full soft. I got some fork oil last weekend to do the job. I will probably regret it, but I went with heavier weight oil because I hoped it might not get by the seal as easily as the lighter weight oil. It might be harder to turn, but hopefully it won't be noticeable. Thicker oil is noticeable when being quickly forced through small orifices.
Are you sure that was the Pan you were working on, it looked far too straightforward hahahahah!
Hello what oil is used thank you
Show us the work less talk.