Very cool video. Great shots throughout! I’d love to see you do a tutorial on shooting bands. That’s been on my list of things to go try for awhile now.
I was one of first to use original f1.2! It was a prototype. I used to have a Canon 50mm f1.2. I was not very impressed with either.. I prefer my Summicron 50mm f2. It's very old but gives wonderful imaging. A pro printer that I worked with loved the rendtion of my Summicron. I don't think any lens should cost like that!
Like the character in those Noctilux images. The Voigtlander should be technically better in every respect as that classic Noctilux was designed in 1966. I now use my pre-aspherical summilux on film more often than my 50/0.95 Noctilux on a M10, and also prefer the handling of the Nokton 40/1.2 indoors. It is great to have so many fantastic choices!
Very nice video. The best way is to simply code your Voigtlander and it will be "assigned" to the most comparable Leica Lens. There is a simple kit you can buy and with a permanent black sharpie it is done in minutes.
🔴 Hi tilly, thanks so much for your video! the photo are lovely! Got me thinking Sony 50mm f/1.2 GM on my A1 is nuts. Have you tried that lens yet? I like my 135mm f.1.8 GM very much as well.
I have the Sony 135mm 1.8 GM, but I rarely use it now, it is a bit too big and heavy to be fun using for several hours. I looked through most of my best photos taken with the Sony 135mm 1.8 GM, most of those was taken with aperture 2.8 to 5.6, so I wish for a more compact and light weight 135mm Lens.
@ yeah the distance can be too far at times. I thought the weight would be an issue but I actually don’t mind that or the size at times. I think the new 85mm f/1.4 (too bad not 1.2) GM (II) might fit the bill. I already have an 85mm so no need to look or upgrade. Maybe time for you to let go of your 135mm if you hardly use it.
@@garfieldmtify I have the Zeiss Batis Sonnar 85mm 1.8 T*, but some weeks ago I got the new Sony 85mm 1.4 GM II which is sharper than the 135 ! I do not want the Sony 85mm to be 1.2, it would be too big and heavy !!!
Great shots and an excellent comparison video. As soon as the fairground shots came up I thought that the Leica lens had a little more halation around the highlights and different flare characteristics to the Voightlander. It's got more of a vibe IMO. This probably accounts for why you enjoyed its rendering so much when shooting the bands. The Leica also has a lot of field curvature, which contributes to the vibe but also makes focusing difficult, and group shots like the last one you shot of the band are pretty much impossible (without stopping down a lot).
yes, Tilly, the Leica works like a Nikon dslr, D700 for eg.; this IS a manual camera, however the Leica needs aperture info to make decisions for Auto ISO, and shutter speed (its an Aperture Priority camera), so the data is required, unlike Hasselblad h, or X1D or mirrorless bodies (Sony\Canon\Nikon) there are no electronic contacts, it communicates max aperture through a bar code on the back of the lens mount, so you need to turn "shoot without lens" or the like setting (non-C.P.U. lens data, in Nikons' case) off, so it is compatible , this is also what you do for non oem lenses or adapting old glass, so the camera can shoot, realising that NO lens data is coming, so can work without it.
No, the 6-bit encoding only tells the body what lens is mounted, no other data. It’s a fixed code that never changes. M-Cameras get no information from the lens other than rangefinder focusing, and that is manual. The coding is also baked into the raw for the lens profile, and used to create jpg’s, that’s it. I set my M10 manually for the 50 Noctilux when using my Voigtlander 50 1.2. Lastly, M cameras are Manual cameras, Auto ISO is calculated by the metering system.
Even if the the Noctilux came in at half the price it would still be a hard pill to swallow. In the end the only one that will see the diffrence between the two will be the photographer.
Very cool video. Great shots throughout! I’d love to see you do a tutorial on shooting bands. That’s been on my list of things to go try for awhile now.
Great shots and great honest comparison
No way! I absolutely love The Midnight. So sick! Amazing shots.
Awesome photos, and thank you for the comparison. I have been considering either the 1.2 or the 0.95 to replace my Nokton 50mm 1.2
I can highly recommend the Voigtländer Nokton 50mm 1.0 Aspherical !
I was one of first to use original f1.2! It was a prototype. I used to have a Canon 50mm f1.2. I was not very impressed with either.. I prefer my Summicron 50mm f2. It's very old but gives wonderful imaging. A pro printer that I worked with loved the rendtion of my Summicron. I don't think any lens should cost like that!
I have a V5 Summicron 50. I love it.
Like the character in those Noctilux images. The Voigtlander should be technically better in every respect as that classic Noctilux was designed in 1966. I now use my pre-aspherical summilux on film more often than my 50/0.95 Noctilux on a M10, and also prefer the handling of the Nokton 40/1.2 indoors. It is great to have so many fantastic choices!
Very nice video. The best way is to simply code your Voigtlander and it will be "assigned" to the most comparable Leica Lens. There is a simple kit you can buy and with a permanent black sharpie it is done in minutes.
I have the 40mm f1l2 Nokton Aspherical, I love everything about it except for the min focus distance which is about 50cm.
🔴 Hi tilly, thanks so much for your video! the photo are lovely! Got me thinking Sony 50mm f/1.2 GM on my A1 is nuts. Have you tried that lens yet? I like my 135mm f.1.8 GM very much as well.
I have the Sony 135mm 1.8 GM, but I rarely use it now, it is a bit too big and heavy to be fun using for several hours. I looked through most of my best photos taken with the Sony 135mm 1.8 GM, most of those was taken with aperture 2.8 to 5.6, so I wish for a more compact and light weight 135mm Lens.
@ yeah the distance can be too far at times. I thought the weight would be an issue but I actually don’t mind that or the size at times. I think the new 85mm f/1.4 (too bad not 1.2) GM (II) might fit the bill. I already have an 85mm so no need to look or upgrade. Maybe time for you to let go of your 135mm if you hardly use it.
@@garfieldmtify I have the Zeiss Batis Sonnar 85mm 1.8 T*, but some weeks ago I got the new Sony 85mm 1.4 GM II which is sharper than the 135 ! I do not want the Sony 85mm to be 1.2, it would be too big and heavy !!!
Great shots and an excellent comparison video. As soon as the fairground shots came up I thought that the Leica lens had a little more halation around the highlights and different flare characteristics to the Voightlander. It's got more of a vibe IMO. This probably accounts for why you enjoyed its rendering so much when shooting the bands. The Leica also has a lot of field curvature, which contributes to the vibe but also makes focusing difficult, and group shots like the last one you shot of the band are pretty much impossible (without stopping down a lot).
Those colors 🙌🏻
i think renting the 0.95 would have given you a better comparison as it is a more modern lens.
I recently got the Voigtländer Nokton 50mm 1.0 Aspherical, it is a geat performing Lens which I can recommend !
I have the same Voigtlander, I feel like my images are super crisp and I can't justify buying the Leica version.
Use a Camera with a good EVF and it is easy to focus !
Such as a Leica SL3? Sure, but it's something different.
You can add an external EVF to the M10
@@p6till8s Good point. I actually have one, in fact, and didn't think of that.
yes, Tilly, the Leica works like a Nikon dslr, D700 for eg.; this IS a manual camera, however the Leica needs aperture info to make decisions for Auto ISO, and shutter speed (its an Aperture Priority camera), so the data is required, unlike Hasselblad h, or X1D or mirrorless bodies (Sony\Canon\Nikon) there are no electronic contacts, it communicates max aperture through a bar code on the back of the lens mount, so you need to turn "shoot without lens" or the like setting (non-C.P.U. lens data, in Nikons' case) off, so it is compatible , this is also what you do for non oem lenses or adapting old glass, so the camera can shoot, realising that NO lens data is coming, so can work without it.
No, the 6-bit encoding only tells the body what lens is mounted, no other data. It’s a fixed code that never changes. M-Cameras get no information from the lens other than rangefinder focusing, and that is manual. The coding is also baked into the raw for the lens profile, and used to create jpg’s, that’s it. I set my M10 manually for the 50 Noctilux when using my Voigtlander 50 1.2. Lastly, M cameras are Manual cameras, Auto ISO is calculated by the metering system.
Even if the the Noctilux came in at half the price it would still be a hard pill to swallow. In the end the only one that will see the diffrence between the two will be the photographer.
No that red dot lens ain´t worth the price ! But try the excellent Voigtländer Nokton 50mm 1.0 Aspherical which is ALL the money worth !!!
No, move on …..
Well, I guess that settles it.... So glad you weighed in on this!