This is very helpful for me trying to get into PRS. Especially figuring out what equipment how crazy I have to for accuracy. Very simplified. One question, do you have to re zero your scope and recalculate dope when you use practice ammo and competition ammo I.e. ELD V A-tip
Sorry for the late reply, the only difference on the current barrel is 0.2mil of sideway adjustment. I usually have it zeroed for match ammo and put in a zero offset for practice ammo in to my Ballistics calculator
Well, i do my brassprepp on a dillon 750 these days, and also load some match ammo on it. I've streamlined the process even more so i might do another video about that
I have, I have also used stainless pins with water but I've moved back to corn cob media and vibratory tumbling when the brass gets muddy.. no need for the other methods and the water is just a pain to deal with
@@MarcusOlssonVRS I use a product called Carbusonic EP26R, de-prime the cases, run a full cycle, take out & strain excess water, rinse in de-ironised water, strain, semi dry on paper towel & put in a pillow case & leave them in a dry warm place over night, super clean inside & out.
@@stevehorner9004 Well, I clean maybe twice a year and shoot perhaps 5-10k rounds as long as the brass isn't dirty and damage the dies its good to go. Clean brass unfortunately makes no difference other than looking real nice =) Made another video recently on reloading which is even more simplified
Kiss. The wind evaluation and poor ballistics management will cause one to miss the tgt over the rifles load and accuracy. Great content and film. Thanks!!
Hi Marcus, I have a question regarding the Frankford Arsenal M press, do you have any issue with the die block? Like will the brass little screw inside the die block come lose once awhile? How did you deal with that?
Marcus, nice video! 👍🏻 When you refer to the Lapua trim length specification, do you mean the trim length that Vihtavuori states in their reloading manual? As far as I know Lapua does not publish that information.
Are you still using the same press or have you switched to another one ? If so what would you recommend I currently have a Hornady auto loader that I use for 9,45, and 556 but am looking to load some 6.5 Creedmoor and 6 br shortly, any help would be greatly appreciated
I currently run a Dillon 750 for all my BR/Dasher loads The Frankford press was gifted to a friend of mine after i got the Dillon. If you're looking for a solid single stage press i would recommend the Hornady Iron Press, and if you want something on a slightly lower price point I like the Lee Classic Cast a lot :)
There are a few things you are seeing there, are higher end items, the custom resize die for one, the trimmer, and the scale, he has spent more on those, than most people spend on a complete reloading kit, dies, tools, brass, primers, powder and bullets to start with. Two are precision items, one is pure convenience that comes at a steep price.
Hey Marcus. Great info there fair play and thank you for the videos. One question if I may please. When you say bump your shoulder back how do you actually do it and what exactly does it mean. I hear the term a fair bit around.
When you set your full length sizing die you adjust it so the headspace is appropriate. I use the Hornady headspace gauge to make sure i meassure it correctly and make sure i push it back about 0.06 - 0.08mm. Search for hornady headspace gauge here on youtube and you'll find som good info :)
Do you ever lube the inside of the neck? When i reload, sometimes the neck sizing is really hard and some times its not and i'm wondering what effect this has on the case.. So basically the same thing that happened to you on the video after both resizing both cases. How accurate powder measurement do you need is necessary for really accurate load?
I've recently had issues with lubes and done some research. I think Marcus might be using carbide dies/expanders and therefore might not need inside neck lube. What I did was get Hornady Unique wax for the case body, something akin to what Marcus is using, just applying to the body. Then I have carbon fibre powder in a small jar filled with tiny tiny metall balls (0.5mm) diameter and I just dip my neck into the balls and the powder applies inside and out of the neck. Important is to not put the wax on the neck, because of the sticky components getting into the jar. So finger applying wax to body, just dipping the neck into the balls, lift it up and see the carbon powder apply to the neck. Then resize and wipe the case down. No need for cleaning again.
@@hinkrakagaming5532 since that comment I have been using redding imperial dry neck lube. Those little ceramic balls won't stick to the casing if you dip the neck first, then lude the case body ;)
@@sakusalo-tuisku4305 That's very true. The reason I did a DIY version with graphite powder was that the Imperial Dry Neck wasn't available and I was eager to get going. My one issue with doing the case neck first is that my fumbly fingers tend to remove at least parts of the dry neck lube/powder when I grip the case for the body wax. I take the case by thumb against spent primer/bottom and pointer finger against the opening at the neck, and I tend to remove some of the powder when doing so if I'm not very careful. But that might be just my handling.
Annealing properly definitely works. If you're running match chambers, you may not see so much of a difference but, you will absolutely notice it when sizing &, you could dump the practice of separating the brass by firing number. Once annealed, all the cases will take on the same characteristics &, you wouldn't need to anneal between every firing. To test the validity of annealing cases, I purchased a force seating gauge & can assure you that, annealing the cases makes a huge difference in the neck tension &, the consistency of the neck ID & base to datum length of the case after sizing. I watched you size those cases & noticed the effort used on the press. Annealing makes all that go away. The cases will size a lot more easily & smoothly with excellent consistency.
Yeah, the effort was because the press was setup the wrong way from the factory... had to have it fixed and it went smooth afterwards, but i can understand you reacting to it because so did i... a 6mmBR with 2 thou bump isnt supposed be that hard to size with a custom die. I don't doubt that it works with annealing, i just cant justify the money to get an AMP or similar after doing the math. I keep track on firings and have gotten a K&M with force pack and keep track on the seating pressure. So far I've not seen any downside on this and got the smallgroup award at the 300m benchrest nationals and came in 2nd in the unlimited class. When the brass gets too worn, primer pockets or too hard necks i just toss them and get a new batch instead, but since usually i change brass every 2nd barrel i never get there. One day i might anneal, but then i'll be shooting something that's not on the shelf from lapua =)
@@MarcusOlssonVRS Yeah, all good. If you want to try it out, you don't need a machine, particularly if you want to fully anneal the cases. I spent months reading white papers written by physicists who were commissioned by different companies &, C26000 cartridge brass won't anneal much at all & not very consistently at 700 F for 6 or 7 seconds. If you were to get just a cheap gas torch machine & take the cases to a good cherry red, the hardest cases would benefit the most & become more annealed than the cases shot only once or twice. I've done hundreds of cases at about 800 C (not F) & it does no harm to the cases at all &, my results are amazing. Unturned neck seating force starting at 8 to 12 Lbs travelling through the neck at 16 to 20 Lbs for both 308 & 243. You'd only have to anneal every 2nd or 3rd firing because, even though they would work harden, they'd all be very similar & that's the main goal. I've got 308 & 243 cases with number of firing differences from 2 to 8 firings & now, all seat & size exactly the same. I can't tell one from another. Anyhow, all the best. If you do change your mind, just leave a comment & I'll know &, I can get you annealing properly, no fuss & little expense.
Great video Marcus , but , you should be brushing your necks BEFORE you run through your sizing die. The carbon will be grinding on your expander ball and fouling up your die !
Consistently brush with nylon brush...good to know! I was surprised you don't ever anneal and you don't clean primer pockets and you trim only once for the life of the brass. Is the chronograph data from virgin brass similar to from fire-formed brass...can load development start when firing virgin brass?
I load dev on once fired brass and then keep track on how many firings they've had. I don't mix once fired with 6x fired but I don't really care if I get a few 5x in with the 6x.. I'm gonna do a test down the road on 10x fired brass compared to 1x and see what the real difference is.
@@mickroberts5166 99%* But to be honest, inches are still used in some instance still from traditions of sorts, like with building a. For example 2inchesx4inches or just two by four, is still commoly used in europe at least, to call well what it is basically, rather than 48mmx98mm for the same stuff.
spekkel 1 ya but 2x4 is the rough cut the actual dimensions are 1.5x3.5” how smart is that. Also almost every one uses inches for reloading. Almost all manuals are in sae
@@taylorbokshowan5713 In the US perhaps? in Europe it still is 2"x4"=48mmx98mm, atleast in every building material store, I have ever done business with. I've never seen anyone using mainly inches, for reloadibg here. I'm not saying it doesn't happen, but never seen it, me and others might reference imperial units in some type of reloads, but not all of them.
@@TheSpekkel1 Ya here in Canada (and US) lumber dimensions are not true to their name. All my reloading manuals are in imperial. Everyone I know uses imperial and all the american videos seem to use as well.
I’m sure what you were about to say could have been of great interest but, EVERYONE talks about bumping shoulders back thousandths of an inch. You start off telling how many hundredths of a centimetre - nobody I’ve met or watched on UA-cam so far has given this measurement. In the next sentence you talk about three fourths, so now you’ve moved into fractions (the one most of us call three quarters). Get a grip, be consistent and use what most of your audience is going be able to immediately feel at home with
Most Swedes in know mix the measurements alot 🙃 English is not my first language so I do apologize for not getting it right with the lingo 😉 I'll try to get it right next time 🤙
Much of the online information is from USA, simply because of how big the shooting/gun industry is there. So understandably much of the information is compared to inches, but most of the world uses metric for almost any kind of measurement. And many of our tools are scaled in metric units, some offer both. If we can do the conversions, why can't you?
Thank you Marcus for the much valuable advice on reloading practice and match rounds ....... cheers
Great video, some of my reloading like clean primer pockets, I assumed everyone cleans them. Like the bench set up.
Excellent!!! 🐕
Thank you Sir 👍
This is very helpful for me trying to get into PRS. Especially figuring out what equipment how crazy I have to for accuracy. Very simplified. One question, do you have to re zero your scope and recalculate dope when you use practice ammo and competition ammo I.e. ELD V A-tip
Sorry for the late reply, the only difference on the current barrel is 0.2mil of sideway adjustment.
I usually have it zeroed for match ammo and put in a zero offset for practice ammo in to my Ballistics calculator
thanks for sharing!
Hi Marcus.
Those are excellent results. Can you tell me what twist your barrel is.
Thanks
I run 7.5 twist, have also used 7 twist with good results
Thanks for the reply 😉
Hey Marcus, great vids. Have you stuck to this methodology, or have you refined the process as your level of shooting has evolved?
Well, i do my brassprepp on a dillon 750 these days, and also load some match ammo on it.
I've streamlined the process even more so i might do another video about that
Very good , no fuss instructions, do you or have you used ultrasonic to clean your cases ?
I have, I have also used stainless pins with water but I've moved back to corn cob media and vibratory tumbling when the brass gets muddy.. no need for the other methods and the water is just a pain to deal with
@@MarcusOlssonVRS I use a product called Carbusonic EP26R, de-prime the cases, run a full cycle, take out & strain excess water, rinse in de-ironised water, strain, semi dry on paper towel & put in a pillow case & leave them in a dry warm place over night, super clean inside & out.
@@stevehorner9004 Well, I clean maybe twice a year and shoot perhaps 5-10k rounds as long as the brass isn't dirty and damage the dies its good to go. Clean brass unfortunately makes no difference other than looking real nice =)
Made another video recently on reloading which is even more simplified
Kiss. The wind evaluation and poor ballistics management will cause one to miss the tgt over the rifles load and accuracy. Great content and film. Thanks!!
Where did you get those 100 round reloading trays?
I had them made =) about 100+ of them, I dont think there are any left though
Hur mkt kostar ett custom die som du använder cirkus?
Runt 1500 för en som är "standard"
Ska man ha en som är exakt på 100 delen tillverkad efter skjuta hylsor i ditt läge så blir det lite dyrare :)
Hi Marcus,
I have a question regarding the Frankford Arsenal M press, do you have any issue with the die block? Like will the brass little screw inside the die block come lose once awhile? How did you deal with that?
Yeah i put little lead beads from a shotgun shell in between the screw and the die. Works wonders
Tahnks!
Hej!
Kan du inte göra en video om hur du rengör pipan? Mvh mattias
Marcus, nice video! 👍🏻 When you refer to the Lapua trim length specification, do you mean the trim length that Vihtavuori states in their reloading manual? As far as I know Lapua does not publish that information.
Great video! Do you clean off the lube before shooting? Cant see you doing it in this video.
No i dont, usually i put my ammo in ammo wallets and that absorb some of it but the key is not applying more than necessary
Are you still using the same press or have you switched to another one ? If so what would you recommend I currently have a Hornady auto loader that I use for 9,45, and 556 but am looking to load some 6.5 Creedmoor and 6 br shortly, any help would be greatly appreciated
I currently run a Dillon 750 for all my BR/Dasher loads
The Frankford press was gifted to a friend of mine after i got the Dillon. If you're looking for a solid single stage press i would recommend the Hornady Iron Press, and if you want something on a slightly lower price point I like the Lee Classic Cast a lot :)
vart har du hittat laddbrättena ?
Jag lät tillverka 80st och sålde till bland annat SCR.nu =) maila Fredrik så fixar han åt dig
What is that scale/powder trickler that you use on your match ammo?
Sorry for the late reply, its an autotrickler that i just recently upgraded to a V4
What cartridge are you shooting, something in the 243 area?
6mmBR =)
Saknar mustaschen.
That's to easy.🙂 Maybe I will start reloading. Thank You! I'm a bit like you, I don't have the patients or time to fuss over every detail.
There are a few things you are seeing there, are higher end items, the custom resize die for one, the trimmer, and the scale, he has spent more on those, than most people spend on a complete reloading kit, dies, tools, brass, primers, powder and bullets to start with. Two are precision items, one is pure convenience that comes at a steep price.
What gun powder do you use when you get 10m/s bullet speed per ½ grain? I get 15 m/s per ½ grain on my Scenar 123Gr using Norma MRP (E.S. 15-25 m/s).
Viht n150 =)
hur tycker du Frankford pressen är i jämförelse med RCBS?
Are you running SR or SRM primers ?
Hey Marcus.
Great info there fair play and thank you for the videos.
One question if I may please. When you say bump your shoulder back how do you actually do it and what exactly does it mean. I hear the term a fair bit around.
When you set your full length sizing die you adjust it so the headspace is appropriate. I use the Hornady headspace gauge to make sure i meassure it correctly and make sure i push it back about 0.06 - 0.08mm. Search for hornady headspace gauge here on youtube and you'll find som good info :)
@@MarcusOlssonVRS thanks marcus.
Is that done by just screwing the die into the press more and then testing in the gauge.
@@keithshelley6126 Yupp, it's as simple as that :)
Why dont you clean out the primer pockets
I haven't seen any difference between doing so and not doing it, they never get so dirty that the primer wont seat properly anyway.
What’s that trimmer you got
It's a giraud trimmer :) I think i mention it in the video =)
Do you ever lube the inside of the neck? When i reload, sometimes the neck sizing is really hard and some times its not and i'm wondering what effect this has on the case.. So basically the same thing that happened to you on the video after both resizing both cases. How accurate powder measurement do you need is necessary for really accurate load?
I've recently had issues with lubes and done some research. I think Marcus might be using carbide dies/expanders and therefore might not need inside neck lube.
What I did was get Hornady Unique wax for the case body, something akin to what Marcus is using, just applying to the body. Then I have carbon fibre powder in a small jar filled with tiny tiny metall balls (0.5mm) diameter and I just dip my neck into the balls and the powder applies inside and out of the neck. Important is to not put the wax on the neck, because of the sticky components getting into the jar.
So finger applying wax to body, just dipping the neck into the balls, lift it up and see the carbon powder apply to the neck. Then resize and wipe the case down. No need for cleaning again.
@@hinkrakagaming5532 since that comment I have been using redding imperial dry neck lube. Those little ceramic balls won't stick to the casing if you dip the neck first, then lude the case body ;)
@@sakusalo-tuisku4305 That's very true. The reason I did a DIY version with graphite powder was that the Imperial Dry Neck wasn't available and I was eager to get going.
My one issue with doing the case neck first is that my fumbly fingers tend to remove at least parts of the dry neck lube/powder when I grip the case for the body wax. I take the case by thumb against spent primer/bottom and pointer finger against the opening at the neck, and I tend to remove some of the powder when doing so if I'm not very careful. But that might be just my handling.
Annealing properly definitely works. If you're running match chambers, you may not see so much of a difference but, you will absolutely notice it when sizing &, you could dump the practice of separating the brass by firing number. Once annealed, all the cases will take on the same characteristics &, you wouldn't need to anneal between every firing. To test the validity of annealing cases, I purchased a force seating gauge & can assure you that, annealing the cases makes a huge difference in the neck tension &, the consistency of the neck ID & base to datum length of the case after sizing. I watched you size those cases & noticed the effort used on the press. Annealing makes all that go away. The cases will size a lot more easily & smoothly with excellent consistency.
Yeah, the effort was because the press was setup the wrong way from the factory... had to have it fixed and it went smooth afterwards, but i can understand you reacting to it because so did i... a 6mmBR with 2 thou bump isnt supposed be that hard to size with a custom die. I don't doubt that it works with annealing, i just cant justify the money to get an AMP or similar after doing the math. I keep track on firings and have gotten a K&M with force pack and keep track on the seating pressure.
So far I've not seen any downside on this and got the smallgroup award at the 300m benchrest nationals and came in 2nd in the unlimited class.
When the brass gets too worn, primer pockets or too hard necks i just toss them and get a new batch instead, but since usually i change brass every 2nd barrel i never get there. One day i might anneal, but then i'll be shooting something that's not on the shelf from lapua =)
@@MarcusOlssonVRS Yeah, all good.
If you want to try it out, you don't need a machine, particularly if you want to fully anneal the cases. I spent months reading white papers written by physicists who were commissioned by different companies &, C26000 cartridge brass won't anneal much at all & not very consistently at 700 F for 6 or 7 seconds. If you were to get just a cheap gas torch machine & take the cases to a good cherry red, the hardest cases would benefit the most & become more annealed than the cases shot only once or twice. I've done hundreds of cases at about 800 C (not F) & it does no harm to the cases at all &, my results are amazing. Unturned neck seating force starting at 8 to 12 Lbs travelling through the neck at 16 to 20 Lbs for both 308 & 243. You'd only have to anneal every 2nd or 3rd firing because, even though they would work harden, they'd all be very similar & that's the main goal. I've got 308 & 243 cases with number of firing differences from 2 to 8 firings & now, all seat & size exactly the same. I can't tell one from another. Anyhow, all the best. If you do change your mind, just leave a comment & I'll know &, I can get you annealing properly, no fuss & little expense.
@@rotasaustralis Will do sir, thanks for the offer.
Great video Marcus , but , you should be brushing your necks BEFORE you run through your sizing die. The carbon will be grinding on your expander ball and fouling up your die !
I haven't used an expander ball for years, kind of beats the purpose of running a bushing die =)
Consistently brush with nylon brush...good to know! I was surprised you don't ever anneal and you don't clean primer pockets and you trim only once for the life of the brass. Is the chronograph data from virgin brass similar to from fire-formed brass...can load development start when firing virgin brass?
I load dev on once fired brass and then keep track on how many firings they've had. I don't mix once fired with 6x fired but I don't really care if I get a few 5x in with the 6x.. I'm gonna do a test down the road on 10x fired brass compared to 1x and see what the real difference is.
Could you list your reloading info in the description? Powder,charge,neck tension,primer,base to ogive,freebore spec?
Great, some no fuss instructions from someone who actually knows what they’re doing
man kan alltså bli FÖR nördig ?? ;-)
You lost me when you went to the metric system.
you mean where 90% of the world already is?
@@mickroberts5166 99%* But to be honest, inches are still used in some instance still from traditions of sorts, like with building a. For example 2inchesx4inches or just two by four, is still commoly used in europe at least, to call well what it is basically, rather than 48mmx98mm for the same stuff.
spekkel 1 ya but 2x4 is the rough cut the actual dimensions are 1.5x3.5” how smart is that. Also almost every one uses inches for reloading. Almost all manuals are in sae
@@taylorbokshowan5713 In the US perhaps? in Europe it still is 2"x4"=48mmx98mm, atleast in every building material store, I have ever done business with.
I've never seen anyone using mainly inches, for reloadibg here. I'm not saying it doesn't happen, but never seen it, me and others might reference imperial units in some type of reloads, but not all of them.
@@TheSpekkel1 Ya here in Canada (and US) lumber dimensions are not true to their name. All my reloading manuals are in imperial. Everyone I know uses imperial and all the american videos seem to use as well.
MM vs sae
Pp
I’m sure what you were about to say could have been of great interest but, EVERYONE talks about bumping shoulders back thousandths of an inch. You start off telling how many hundredths of a centimetre - nobody I’ve met or watched on UA-cam so far has given this measurement. In the next sentence you talk about three fourths, so now you’ve moved into fractions (the one most of us call three quarters). Get a grip, be consistent and use what most of your audience is going be able to immediately feel at home with
Most Swedes in know mix the measurements alot 🙃 English is not my first language so I do apologize for not getting it right with the lingo 😉 I'll try to get it right next time 🤙
Much of the online information is from USA, simply because of how big the shooting/gun industry is there. So understandably much of the information is compared to inches, but most of the world uses metric for almost any kind of measurement. And many of our tools are scaled in metric units, some offer both. If we can do the conversions, why can't you?