this are some steps you can take if your mosin isnt shooting good. Its In the russian manual that you can wrap the barrel for 2 inches at front barrel band and have 3 contact points
This looks EXACTLY like my technique, and I even sell the kits on my website, smith-sights.com . You need to oil the cardboard because it will attract moisture. This is why I use rubberized cork or other gasket material in the kits. 0:35 Don't use aluminum. It reacts badly with steel. The page you probably referenced for the video is likely this one: www.smith-sights.com/accurizing-the-mosin-nagant-a-year-later.php The shim kit instructions are here: www.smith-sights.com/resources/Shim Kit Instructions.jpg The vertical recoil lug shim was never used by the Russians or the Finns to the best of my knowledge. I added that. Of course, you have my apologies if this is an independent discovery. Regards, Josh Smith Smith-Sights.com
from what i just looked at from your page its not the same setup. You are shimming it to free float the barrel. Im shimming it to make the action sit in the stock better without it moving around. alot of mosins will rock like a teeter tooter at the tang so you shim it, you dont want the action or the wood to flex when you tighten the screws. i glass bed one of my mosins but i didnt want to do something permanent to all of them, shims you can always take out. you want 3 contact points the tang, be4 the recoil lug, and under the chamber. I would only shim be4 the recoil lug only if there wasnt contact because then you are gonna free float the chamber, then u will have to shim under the chamber as well. rubber and cork also settles after a while. i sanded the barrel channel and used an oiled cardboard and on another 1 i also used a 2 inch by 2 inch cleaning patch to wrap the barrel. Yes i did oil the cardboard, and wood holds moisture too. the vertical shim in the recoil lug i got from myself i did not see it on the internet or your webpage. it looks like you shimmed under the recoil lug to free float the barrel; i put it vertical with the lug so the whole action/barrel would slide backwards and forwards. you might be right about the aluminum i usually do use brass. I have a book, "The 2012 Complete Book on Lee Enfield Accurizing," that says to use aluminum, cardboard, wood, or epoxy... so i figured it would be okay. it also says you oil the cardboard so after each shot it helps the barrel return to the same position. the reason i didn't use cork is because i would have to either replace it or add a filler like paper or cardboard because the cork is soft and settles so it compresses over time.
constant shooter Hello, I shim to float the action up, but also to eliminate rocking. The kit I sell has five pieces: 1 tang shim, 2 front shims, a vertical lug shim, and a pressure pad for the barrel. The barrel is not free-floated in my setup. The instructions are exactly like you illustrate here, though I really should clarify the vertical shim (need to take a picture for it.) Regards, Josh
constant shooter As far as shimming/accurizing? No hard and fast answer, but about the same. If you pull the bayonet off the lug on the M44, the bayonet lug helps damp resonance some and the carbine becomes potentially more precise, all other things being equal. Turn the rear screw in as much as the front screw, then shoot for groups, turning it counter-clockwise a quarter of a turn each group. You'll eventually find a sweet spot. Mark it! This goes for all Mosins, not just the Russian versions. Josh
This looks EXACTLY like my technique, and I even sell the kits on my website, smith-sights.com . You need to oil the cardboard because it will attract moisture. This is why I use rubberized cork or other gasket material in the kits.
0:35 Don't use aluminum. It reacts badly with steel.
The page you probably referenced for the video is likely this one: www.smith-sights.com/accurizing-the-mosin-nagant-a-year-later.php
The shim kit instructions are here: www.smith-sights.com/resources/Shim Kit Instructions.jpg
The vertical recoil lug shim was never used by the Russians or the Finns to the best of my knowledge. I added that.
Of course, you have my apologies if this is an independent discovery.
Regards,
Josh Smith
Smith-Sights.com
from what i just looked at from your page its not the same setup. You are shimming it to free float the barrel. Im shimming it to make the action sit in the stock better without it moving around. alot of mosins will rock like a teeter tooter at the tang so you shim it, you dont want the action or the wood to flex when you tighten the screws. i glass bed one of my mosins but i didnt want to do something permanent to all of them, shims you can always take out. you want 3 contact points the tang, be4 the recoil lug, and under the chamber.
I would only shim be4 the recoil lug only if there wasnt contact because then you are gonna free float the chamber, then u will have to shim under the chamber as well.
rubber and cork also settles after a while. i sanded the barrel channel and used an oiled cardboard and on another 1 i also used a 2 inch by 2 inch cleaning patch to wrap the barrel. Yes i did oil the cardboard, and wood holds moisture too.
the vertical shim in the recoil lug i got from myself i did not see it on the internet or your webpage. it looks like you shimmed under the recoil lug to free float the barrel; i put it vertical with the lug so the whole action/barrel would slide backwards and forwards.
you might be right about the aluminum i usually do use brass. I have a book, "The 2012 Complete Book on Lee Enfield Accurizing," that says to use aluminum, cardboard, wood, or epoxy... so i figured it would be okay. it also says you oil the cardboard so after each shot it helps the barrel return to the same position.
the reason i didn't use cork is because i would have to either replace it or add a filler like paper or cardboard because the cork is soft and settles so it compresses over time.
constant shooter
Hello,
I shim to float the action up, but also to eliminate rocking. The kit I sell has five pieces: 1 tang shim, 2 front shims, a vertical lug shim, and a pressure pad for the barrel.
The barrel is not free-floated in my setup. The instructions are exactly like you illustrate here, though I really should clarify the vertical shim (need to take a picture for it.)
Regards,
Josh
SmithSights
Have you ever messed around with m38/m44s. if so what you think the best setup is for the carbine
constant shooter
As far as shimming/accurizing? No hard and fast answer, but about the same. If you pull the bayonet off the lug on the M44, the bayonet lug helps damp resonance some and the carbine becomes potentially more precise, all other things being equal.
Turn the rear screw in as much as the front screw, then shoot for groups, turning it counter-clockwise a quarter of a turn each group. You'll eventually find a sweet spot. Mark it! This goes for all Mosins, not just the Russian versions.
Josh