Hi Phil I found your site by mistake on UA-cam and i’m pleasantly surprised with all your hints and your professionalism. I am an ex sales manager selling industrial paints and have to watch videos. All very interesting and very good. My wife has been on about all these different paints. I never listened until now and I must listen to you more often. Thank you
Lovely words Alan. I don't like the word mistake... More you're late to the party lol You've some top videos to catch up on I'm afraid... But the more ppl viewing.. the more pennies go towards the YT Porsche ;)
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator thanks for replying, but I meant what I said I really enjoyed your videos to be honest with you. I’ve been watching most of them and everything is very good.
Well I have to say again, I really impressed with your videos and I watch everyone don’t like me but I’m impressed so impressed I have to watch you’ve let me so much in the short time. Thank you and I’m was a professional manager selling industrial paints totally different business than decorativebut I’m enjoying all your videos
First time viewer of your channel. I absolutely love this paint can't fault it. I've been using it for nearly 2 years. I always recommend it for people wanting an eggshell/satin finish and don't want to wait 24 hours for things to dry.
I use Johnno's paints almost exclusively. I used Isomat quite a bit until Johnno's brought out Aqua Guard. For me, it's simply a case of what I can get off the shelf. I can't do that with Isomat, Tikkurilla or Benjamin Moore, although, I think Brewers may stock it. But...I don't have the same discount at Brewers as I do at Johnno's. It's a no brained for me. Aqua Guard every time. Colour mixed, it's exceptional. And with my fan heaters going, I can re-coat in 1-2 hours 👌
Hi Phil, I've not used the Ben Moor. I think the aqua garde is the best one if you need to get one off the shelf. However I tend to plan my work and order on line, and then it would be isomat. Like you say the difference in price isn't a problem usually, providing you explain to the customer what you are giving them. Cheers Bob.
Yep, the all in one materials/labour price, you allow for the paint you use. TBH.. i don't think most customers know enough about paint to question what's being applied.
I think it's safe to say all need to start off with a primer/Uc. Today I've been doing F&B modern eggshell... without the prmer/Uc....... why?? Because we are going over the same paint and colour we did a few years ago. If it was a 'new' paint surface we'd Uc and two top,
Scuff-X over Johnsons Aqua Guard. But as you quite rightly said, would I have a issue with using aqua guard? Not at all. It's a solid option; but for the price differencial, the Scuff-X is top dog and when it only adds another £5 in material cost to a job, its the right call a lot of the time, especially when it cuts down on the need to be adding in undercoat and the extra labour time.
After a lifetime of using Dulux I read the reviews on Johnstones trade Aqua Guard for the first time a few months ago. Will never go back to Dulux! Application took a little getting used to - it does feel oil like, but coverage is brilliant and it’s easy to lay off. I really like it. I’m now in a new house, have a load more decorating to do and toying up as to whether to try Benjamin Moore! Will up date with comparison if I do!
Sounds a promising paint and a you seem pleased with it mate. Think it’s fair to say we all get sucked into the trap of because something is the most money or scuff x it’s got to be the best…. This just shows that there is some serious competition with the likes of aqua guard and isomat. Might give the aqua guard a bash now! Cheers matey! 👍
don't get me wrong.. ScuffX very good too... but lots will look at the price tag and say... hmmmm does it justify the additional cost! Give it a try...... most stuff needs an Primer/UC first then two top coats.. for best results. But i will say.... I've a bedec video coming up in a few weeks...... it's very good ;)
Great video been waiting for this one. I've been using this for the last two years . Done 5 high end new builds gone back a year later to snag. Really impressed with the durability and still looks great. Also this on all domestic. With 1 halfprimier and 2 aqua guard. Works a treat together..
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I did on my new builds . But it wrecks your brushes . I find halfprimier much better! Better coverage, easier to use. I've not had any comebacks. For me halfprimier probably the best one on the market. I trust it more going over old oil more then there undercoat . Have yoy never tried the halfprimier. If not you should.
Told you so didn’t I! Haha. Been using it today, love it. I know you said you’re against anything to the paint but I do add a small amount of water at the beginning and maybe every couple of hours, definitely helps it flow. Have been told to floetrol with it instead of water does the same thing but without hindering opacity. It’s my number 1. Have used Scuff x but not in white so can’t comment on that but it did flow better than Aquaguard. But I’ll take Aquaguard with a drop of water/ floetrol for that lower cost.
Really like Aqua Guard. Used again last week (Doors, sils, radiators, skirting boards) Even the Undercoat seems tough. HOWEVER I can't stop it from running on skirting boards particularly! 😮Any one else have that problem?
Funny how these reviews always seem to show painting on a scrap of flat skirting, yes have same problem your not alone with paint runs. Dado rail was terrible also. I've only been painting twenty years plus and thought I was pretty good at my job so maybe I'm missing something hmmmm lol
Thanks for the feedback so annoying. Especially because it still happens after half an hour or longer 🤪 Will try the Isolac next since it's an acrylic enamel you should get all the benefits and it will never yellow. Wonder how long it actually takes for the hybrids to yellow ("normal" light conditions). I guess we are talking years right...?
@@ManuelaSmith-bk1zp yes you do the hard work of prepping only to be ruined by runs or brush marks, not fun. To be honest I did use the johnstones aqua hybrid but in gloss white, prefer satin now, did stay white for a long time with no obvious yellowing, just remember after rinsing brush in water to then clean in white spirits to remove the oil part or end up with hard brushes once dry, that was a pain. Best of luck with Isolac, another paint to try!
Actually just found out of decoratorsforum and other websites: Johnstones AQUA GUARD satin is NOT a hybrid but the Johnstones AQUA range is including the undercoat. So AQUA GUARD will not yellow and it is very hard wearing. What a shame about the runs 🥴
If it is bare wood, prime it with the Aqua UC, thin it a little bit to soak in. You can use 123 if you wanted. No not really needed if you have the under coat to use as a primer. Once primed, a full Uc, then TWO top coats. (NOT one!) If you are a previous painted surface.. a good/clean/sand down, dust off.~One UC and TWO top coats. Read the back of the can if in doubt too
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator And thr same applies for bare not primed mdf panels ...thin aqua guard u/c down then A coat of u/c and 2 top coats of waterbased gloss ?
Hi Phil love your videos, you may already have answered my question,but my sister in law wants her bannisters and handrails painted, they are in good condition, they just need freshening up, i was going to use Jonos Aquaguard,do i need an adhesion primer or can i lightly key up and then 2 coats of Aquaguard. Not sure if its oil paint or waterbased on the spindles already?
It is a 2 system paint to be used with the undercoat. It does run (on skirting boards) which is a shame coz it is tough and brilliant white. Coz the undercoat is a hybrid you can use it over previous solvent gloss (sanded)
Hiha bud whats it like for sparying. And what % water wood you add pair Lt for kitchen cabinet doors. And what uc/prime on bare mdf. Or whats your recommendation for any of the paints you get in Johnson's i can use.. thanks for your helpful tips 👍
Now... Those questions I can't answer as I wouldn't be using it for spraying kitchens. Tikkurila Everal Aqua sprays very well and is great for kitchens. Add water till you get it nicely spraying... HVLP?
Have tried this just the other day, DIYer only every used oil based satinwood and it is lovely paint feels ‘oily’ to put on and dries smooth as anything just learning to avoid drips on vertical doors as usually I remove and paint them flat. Looking to get some two fussy blokes rollers to try as only used brushes to date. Might have just converted to WB…. just a bit concerned about runs on door frames and the like. Keep up the good work it’s great that you share your experience and advice with others 👍🏻
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I have thanks and also using a synthetic brush albeit a reasonably cheap one for now. Did it how you demonstrated and it looked perfect no brush marks which was my worst fear then 15 mins after I finished got a few runs in the mouldings and one on one of the larger panels (6 panel door) which I know you can’t do much about by then. I’ll get there, first time I’ve used it and only had two coats to practice on. First time 1.5in brush, second 2in and I’d say first coat was more successful so perhaps too much paint second time but I think it was a better finish overall as I could work quicker with the larger brush 👍🏻
Yes cost isnt that much small jobs but most decorators would buy a 5l tin white and use whatever.. £50 v £100. How many tins whiote a year would you use? Priced jobs with no spec its up to you get decent product as cheap as possible. WRX QD satin comes in cheaper than aquaguard and sometimes on offer buy 3 get 1 free again this could be your profit pretty good paint be good hear what you think of WRX tested on channel.
It's decent paint, sprays lovely also. Love the Channel and reviews Phil. Bought that Energer hvlp sprayer you reviewed, used it to spray a stairs, worked perfectly cheers mate.
That's a great bit of kit for £40 Subscribe and press the Bell... I've another sprayer... £65 review.. coming before Xmas. It's said you can spray walls with it as well It has 100w more power so could be good.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator looking forward to it. If you have a chance try out the Erbauer eaps600 airless sprayer seen a few reviews on it, so bought one as a back up. It's a budget model around £200 but a little beast with rac x and ff lp tips. Ideal for beginners or professionals alike. On a side note, how heavy is Dorris now, with all those coats 🤣
I've used the aqua guard both brilliant white and tinted colours. Have to say it's outstanding,great flow if you work it quickly using a top synthetic brush. Great opacity and I think it feels really close to an oil based product. Lovely even finish overall. I've never scratch tested it though. 😁
Just got some of this to do my woodwork for the hallway and other busier rooms, glad you reckon it's decent! I thought it was a two coat system though with the 'hybrid' undercoat. I was going to go zinsser 123, undercoat, two top coats - going over oil based satinwood in white... I reckon I could get away with just the 123 thou according to what some say!
Problem with aqua guard is it only comes in Satin. Most of my customers prefer eggshell. It would be interesting to compare spreading rates with Scuff-x as it seems to go along way.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Thanks, will do that then. I was going to rub down my stair case woodwork, but it's so bad I'm going to strip it to bare wood and I have a tin of that Dulux undercoat primer unopened.
Thanks, great review. Going to get some Johnstone's aqua guard water based satin. Do you think that it would work well on my door frames and skirting which I've primed with Leyland trade acrylic primer undercoat?
love the longform content, i have found my people!. Does anyone know after painting doorframes/skirting in this that it would be ok to overlap slightly (for cutting in) with bog standard dulux easycare matt or will the satin finish repell it?. Also 2 coats undercoat 1 coat topcoat or the other way around or does it not matter too much as long as a pur white is achieved? Many thanks!!
One UC... and two top coats. Watch my other YT video using aqua guard and the correct Primer/UC. You'll go slightly onto the woodwork with your wall emulsion.. then do the woodwork last, cutting back into/onto the wall emulsion with your woodwork paints.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Oh the man himself!, thanks very much for the reply. Hmmm you know what i used zinsser 123 on top of 30+ year gloss, not amazingly impressed with it, on some doors it gripped well and on others just created a film that i could peel off with a fingernail. Sugar soaped but didn't key it with sandpaper which was prob the weak link. Thanks again and love that gold leaf wall and rust effect wall on your new reno!
@@multirevelator LOL. Yes, it's me. You still gotta sand the surface down. Then 123. For that to cure it's a good week too. Have you watch the video I did on swapping from gloss, oil based to water based paint?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator No i don't think i did, prob where i went wrong!. Btw there is a new Zinsser product called B.I.N Aqua, i can't see how that is different to 1.2.3 however. Do a review!
If you read tye back of the can, it says prep tye surface and use the aqua Uc. You'd be fine going over a previously water based surface.. give it a key and away you go.
Scuffex Phil for me faster to apply and drying time and great finish but like you say the cost.. with the gallon always carries over to the next job 🙌… Aqua gaurd is great finish but slower to apply .. isomat great finish but a hard working paint neat …. If I put my car in the garage I wouldn’t go for square tyres if there half the price compared to round to save money but it takes twice as long to get to the final destination… Great vids 💪
tnx, you make some valid points, I will add.... as we use isomat more now............ read the back of the cans.. you need to thin it 5-10% with clean water.. we go with 5%.. it's a different beast then. appplys better, flows out and when dry.. you see no brush marks (use a decent brush - we have arrowothy) you'd not know if it was wb or ob..... so very similar to ScuffX... and yes, drying time son both are very good.
I would curious to compare different paints with different brushes as you may find that some brushes and rollers work better with different types of paint. Another question I’d like an answer to is how many types of waterbased paints are there. I know you have PU and enamel based paints but are there other types
Might have a better chance of covering using the undercoat. All depends on the background colour for 3 coats. It does say use the undercoat first. Just my way of using this product. Love the vids and explanations.. 😎
Hi Phil. My window sashes had previously been painted with wb paint 5 year ago. I have sanded the frames. i seen one video who showed using zisser 123 as primer & un. Then sand. The use again zisser 123 as primer & un sand lightly and apply a final top coat of Aqua guard. Tell me Phil ? Would this be a good finnish ? X 2 123 zisser light sand x 1 top coat of Aqua guard ? Or do u have any other advises ?
aqua gaurd is an interior paint, it will do what you what you ask. You don't need 123, as thats for grip primer painting. So you'd be better using the correct Uc for the Aqua Guard (they have anew one out now for it), then you put 2 coats of AG on, the finish would be fine though I'm not a fan of AG. I'd look at other paints in my product testing list and see if anything floats your boat to try.
@@bsfbestshortfilmsonyoutube simple easy, Dulux Heritage UC. Then two coats Heritage eggshell. Easy to apply. Great finish. More specialist... Isomat All primer and 2x Isomat Satin. H&G all purpose primer/UC and followed by 2x TouchGard or ScuffGard (both good). Really easy.... Bedec MSP, (spot prime with it, then apply two coats? Or Bedec Aqua Advanced UC then 2 top coats of the Aqua Advanced Satin.
Thanks I want the longest lasting white mid sheen effec, satin effect. I done so much sanding away of the old yellow gloss from x 3 windows x 3 doors I want to use the same durable paint system for all. I just want to make sure it's professionally done so I'm not wasting all my efforts 😌 thanks possibly try isomat
@@bsfbestshortfilmsonyoutube Isomat All primer then the satin two would be a good choice. Bedec Aqua Advanced Satin, over Bedec All Prime. Also would be a good option. They won't go off being proper water based paints.
Using my first tin of this Aqua Guard, finding it a bit thick and gloopy, pulling and dragging, it just doesn't have great flow. I too found it was like an OB to work with at first, but just not happy with it. Is it undercoat fussy? Primer fussy?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Hopefully their UC will aid flow? I'm at a loss as to what happened, so I'm going to try the Aqua water based undercoat, I'll do a click and collect now and then sand the frame back down.
I revisited the door frame, wet sanded it back, applied the UC and then the AG. It's made the finish and sheen much much better with the UC. Not sure what happened previously with the pulling, as I'd actually done a bedroom a few days prior with it - AG on top of sanded down oil based and it went on fine. The only issue I need to get better with, is sagging/runs occasionally. I used to get that a lot with Dulux Diamond, but the AG doesn't run as easily but it can still happen, even if I think I'm putting it on thinly.
@@atAntCYou're right, It is VERY undercoat fussy. Using it over Armstead, Crown or Leyland UC is nightmare fuel. Their own UC works really well with it, so I'd stick with that.
Brilliant video Phil once again , I know your a professional painter and Decorator like my self would you consider trying some DIY store paints just to see a difference cheers mate
I'll be honest, apart from the stigma of being a pro rocking upnwith a DIY product, I've got no problem with using the retail version of branded paint...if it needs two anyway then why not?...plus its a lot cheaper, which mean the difference between winning and losing a job.
@@Lloyd1885 I think it may be a good comparison for diyers and professionals, because some of the professional paint seems to be losing some quality lately and the prices were paying to get a good job done for customers
Disappointed with it, been using over the weekend sadly painting over rubbol bl satura, after a key of a previous perfect surface, water based, it was drying and leaving to many brush marks not to mention runs. Can't believe the money I've wasted on brushes, additives and other water based trim paints trying to find a replacement for BL. Used to love trim painting but decorating is actually quite depressing now due to poor paints not to mention the cost.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator haven't tried scuff x, frightened too because of the cost and not being happy with the finish :) agreed BL also run but levelled beautifully and the primer superb....... It also needed a good few coats........ I give up!!
No, just the aqua undercoat for the fully wb satin in this video. I guess just don't use your best brushes, a bit of water then wash out as best as possible. I'm used to just using water, perhaps I'd need white spirit or turps too
The aqua guard satin washes out fine. The gloss.. well. Rinse with cold water, then some warm.. and soap. If it doesn't come out... White spirit then some meths to get rid of the WS. Re wash was warm soapy water. See how you go then.
Issue I have is my cabinets already undercoated with Leyland water based acrylic undercoat primer Can I use the aqua on to of this for decent results ?
Hi Phil, Would you use an undercoat with this on new primed MDF doors and skirtings meaning it would be a 3 coat system? Would the Benjamin Moore scuff x only need 2 coats and save me time? Thanks for your help.
As with anything bare, you need to prime it first. So I'd say it as board as it's long. Once you get a primer coat on, it'll want a nib down depends the quality of the MDF too. An extra build up of paint does it no harm if you want to achieve a better finish.
have you tried the Teknos future aqua? I found it really nice to use. The adhesion primer/undercoat can be tinted to the same colour as the topcoat too. t's a hybrid. I have just painted furniture with it, but I'm not sure if it'll be as hard wearing as BM Advance. Did our kitchen with Advance a few years back and people thought we'd bought a new kitchen. And I'm an amateur DIYer. Only had to touch up one slight chip where I think the wife had scratched it with her engagement ring (despite the diamond being tiny 😉
Hi. No I've not, it's on my list to try out. Good to know your kitchen is standing up well. I did mine in Tikkurila helmi 30 and that's doing well 5yrs on.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator We got Helmi samples but being an amateur I couldn't get a decent finish with the Helmi. The Teknos is easy to use even for me, and the added bonus is the primer can be matched to dark colours.
Going over a similar surface .. water based.. you'll get away with it. Tye can does say use tye aqua Uc first on bare surfaces.. and also when a surface has been preped. I didn't.. as most will use it as a 2 coat paint.. so we needed to see how it went. Ideally you're better to start off with tye correct Uc/primer. Then you'll know you've given tye new water based system the best chance.
Thanks Phil. Been using the Bedec undercoat, satin and gloss lately and can't really complain it goes on really well but I'm going to try the aqua guard to see how it work's 👍
Yep. Not quite asy to clean brushes out. Wash out with water, soapy water. Then I've done white spirit and finished off with meths... Then washed with warm water and soap again to bring some Arroworthy brushes back to life. Slight yellowing.. it's more with the gloss.
Has anyone tried this in a tinted colour? I was going to go for Little Greene for some deep and rich satinwood colours but this stuff is obviously more hard wearing...
Homeowner here! How does this do with brush marks? I’ve tried Johnstones water based gloss when painting a internal window and sill and the sill couldn’t get flat without brush marks. Tried rolling and got a better but so-so finish.
I agree with a lot of what you say but first off I would say, for the professional, this paint needs to to be put into the teardrop run brigade of WB paint finishes and the extra time and hassle it involves to keep checking this. Secondly, like Scuffx, it's not a brilliant white and doesn't do well on handrails. Frenchic outperforms all of the paints you mentioned on this front. I know. Thirdly, I also like using Isomat Satin especially for the low odour but noticed it's not got the scuff resistance of Scuffx and takes a while to cure though I agree, it probably maintains it's whiteness much longer. Let's face it, no big company is ever going to give us professionals what we want or what would make our labour less as their profits would dive, selling less paint. Independents maybe ?
It’s the brush marks that bother me. Oil bases drys so much flatter and with zero brush marks.. these water based systems leave brush marks. Even with added floetrol. So annoying
Great video. Obviously BM is my choice. You can't really compare Ford to Maserrati 😀 That's two different leagues. People pay loads of money for F&B paints so why would you go with something cheaper for woodwork 👍 The F&B eggshell cost £110 which is even more than BM. Just my thoughts
@@thorn99ification whys it contain dearomatised white spirit then? Check the MSDS. The branding is also surprisingly vague with phrases like 'long lasting whiteness' instead of the usual non yellowing. And being sold as just water based tells you nothing, because that's what the aqua satin/gloss are sold as aswell. Having used it aswell I would definitely say it is very hybridy aswell hence why likes to run. They make a big thing about how it doesn't ruin brushes too, so I'd guess that's why the white spirit is in there
Hi Phil I found your site by mistake on UA-cam and i’m pleasantly surprised with all your hints and your professionalism. I am an ex sales manager selling industrial paints and have to watch videos. All very interesting and very good. My wife has been on about all these different paints. I never listened until now and I must listen to you more often. Thank you
Lovely words Alan. I don't like the word mistake... More you're late to the party lol
You've some top videos to catch up on I'm afraid... But the more ppl viewing.. the more pennies go towards the YT Porsche ;)
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator thanks for replying, but I meant what I said I really enjoyed your videos to be honest with you. I’ve been watching most of them and everything is very good.
Well I have to say again, I really impressed with your videos and I watch everyone don’t like me but I’m impressed so impressed I have to watch you’ve let me so much in the short time. Thank you and I’m was a professional manager selling industrial paints totally different business than decorativebut I’m enjoying all your videos
Smashing Vid, thanks.
Great review thanks ,David Brent decorator
First time viewer of your channel. I absolutely love this paint can't fault it. I've been using it for nearly 2 years. I always recommend it for people wanting an eggshell/satin finish and don't want to wait 24 hours for things to dry.
welcome aboard ... comment on the 5000 subscriber video.. in it to win it.. you could win a sprayer ;)
I use Johnno's paints almost exclusively. I used Isomat quite a bit until Johnno's brought out Aqua Guard. For me, it's simply a case of what I can get off the shelf. I can't do that with Isomat, Tikkurilla or Benjamin Moore, although, I think Brewers may stock it. But...I don't have the same discount at Brewers as I do at Johnno's. It's a no brained for me. Aqua Guard every time. Colour mixed, it's exceptional. And with my fan heaters going, I can re-coat in 1-2 hours 👌
you're quite right.
I hope you buy at the discount price... and charge the customer the RRP
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Of course. Those lobster thermidors don't pay for themselves ;)
Hi Phil, I've not used the Ben Moor. I think the aqua garde is the best one if you need to get one off the shelf.
However I tend to plan my work and order on line, and then it would be isomat. Like you say the difference in price isn't a problem usually, providing you explain to the customer what you are giving them.
Cheers Bob.
Yep, the all in one materials/labour price, you allow for the paint you use. TBH.. i don't think most customers know enough about paint to question what's being applied.
The aqua system using the undercoat then the aqua gaurd on top always works. For me one undercoat and 2 Aqua gaurd
I think it's safe to say all need to start off with a primer/Uc.
Today I've been doing F&B modern eggshell... without the prmer/Uc....... why?? Because we are going over the same paint and colour we did a few years ago.
If it was a 'new' paint surface we'd Uc and two top,
I use aqua guard a lot it’s a good paint when you use it with the aqua undercoat 👌
Scuff-X over Johnsons Aqua Guard. But as you quite rightly said, would I have a issue with using aqua guard? Not at all. It's a solid option; but for the price differencial, the Scuff-X is top dog and when it only adds another £5 in material cost to a job, its the right call a lot of the time, especially when it cuts down on the need to be adding in undercoat and the extra labour time.
People need to weigh it all up ;)
Scuff X is £100 😮
After a lifetime of using Dulux I read the reviews on Johnstones trade Aqua Guard for the first time a few months ago. Will never go back to Dulux! Application took a little getting used to - it does feel oil like, but coverage is brilliant and it’s easy to lay off. I really like it. I’m now in a new house, have a load more decorating to do and toying up as to whether to try Benjamin Moore! Will up date with comparison if I do!
Thanks for sharing!
Can it be thinned with water to help the flow?
@@mrkornelyuz I’m not a professional - but yes I believe it can. Well, I did anyway, just a little, and it helped. Don’t overdo it though!
@@stuartbalmer8112 hard to find one that doesn't take 5 coats to give it a perfect finish
Sounds a promising paint and a you seem pleased with it mate. Think it’s fair to say we all get sucked into the trap of because something is the most money or scuff x it’s got to be the best…. This just shows that there is some serious competition with the likes of aqua guard and isomat. Might give the aqua guard a bash now! Cheers matey! 👍
don't get me wrong.. ScuffX very good too... but lots will look at the price tag and say... hmmmm does it justify the additional cost!
Give it a try...... most stuff needs an Primer/UC first then two top coats.. for best results.
But i will say.... I've a bedec video coming up in a few weeks...... it's very good ;)
Great video been waiting for this one. I've been using this for the last two years . Done 5 high end new builds gone back a year later to snag. Really impressed with the durability and still looks great. Also this on all domestic. With 1 halfprimier and 2 aqua guard. Works a treat together..
Hi Richard.
Why not use the matching Jono QD undercoat?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I did on my new builds . But it wrecks your brushes . I find halfprimier much better! Better coverage, easier to use. I've not had any comebacks. For me halfprimier probably the best one on the market. I trust it more going over old oil more then there undercoat . Have yoy never tried the halfprimier. If not you should.
Told you so didn’t I! Haha. Been using it today, love it. I know you said you’re against anything to the paint but I do add a small amount of water at the beginning and maybe every couple of hours, definitely helps it flow. Have been told to floetrol with it instead of water does the same thing but without hindering opacity.
It’s my number 1. Have used Scuff x but not in white so can’t comment on that but it did flow better than Aquaguard. But I’ll take Aquaguard with a drop of water/ floetrol for that lower cost.
adding something is ideal when you know what a paint is like.. hence I try the paints out the can... as 'most' will do the same.
Another great video Phil, keep em coming.
Thanks, will do! some good ones.. well i think so.... coming out this month.
Benjamin Moore advanced is my favourite for brushing on. Isomat or Tikkurila for spraying
all good paints, the masses won't have even heard of them
BM Advance is second to none.
Really like Aqua Guard. Used again last week (Doors, sils, radiators, skirting boards) Even the Undercoat seems tough. HOWEVER I can't stop it from running on skirting boards particularly! 😮Any one else have that problem?
Funny how these reviews always seem to show painting on a scrap of flat skirting, yes have same problem your not alone with paint runs. Dado rail was terrible also. I've only been painting twenty years plus and thought I was pretty good at my job so maybe I'm missing something hmmmm lol
Thanks for the feedback so annoying. Especially because it still happens after half an hour or longer 🤪 Will try the Isolac next since it's an acrylic enamel you should get all the benefits and it will never yellow. Wonder how long it actually takes for the hybrids to yellow ("normal" light conditions). I guess we are talking years right...?
@@ManuelaSmith-bk1zp yes you do the hard work of prepping only to be ruined by runs or brush marks, not fun. To be honest I did use the johnstones aqua hybrid but in gloss white, prefer satin now, did stay white for a long time with no obvious yellowing, just remember after rinsing brush in water to then clean in white spirits to remove the oil part or end up with hard brushes once dry, that was a pain. Best of luck with Isolac, another paint to try!
Actually just found out of decoratorsforum and other websites: Johnstones AQUA GUARD satin is NOT a hybrid but the Johnstones AQUA range is including the undercoat. So AQUA GUARD will not yellow and it is very hard wearing. What a shame about the runs 🥴
Do I need to prime doors and trim with waterbase 123 before I paint 2 aqua guard undercoat and one gloss ?
If it is bare wood, prime it with the Aqua UC, thin it a little bit to soak in.
You can use 123 if you wanted.
No not really needed if you have the under coat to use as a primer.
Once primed, a full Uc, then TWO top coats. (NOT one!)
If you are a previous painted surface.. a good/clean/sand down, dust off.~One UC and TWO top coats.
Read the back of the can if in doubt too
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator thank you
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator And thr same applies for bare not primed mdf panels ...thin aqua guard u/c down then A coat of u/c and 2 top coats of waterbased gloss ?
@@cathedralImages that will work. watch my panel panting videos ;)
Hi Phil love your videos, you may already have answered my question,but my sister in law wants her bannisters and handrails painted, they are in good condition, they just need freshening up, i was going to use Jonos Aquaguard,do i need an adhesion primer or can i lightly key up and then 2 coats of Aquaguard. Not sure if its oil paint or waterbased on the spindles already?
It is a 2 system paint to be used with the undercoat. It does run (on skirting boards) which is a shame coz it is tough and brilliant white. Coz the undercoat is a hybrid you can use it over previous solvent gloss (sanded)
You are correct. The back of the can says prime bare areas... Then apply the water based aqua coat UC, then apply the aqua Gaurd satin.
Any one else had problems with runs? (On skirting boards despite proper prep and Undercoat and sanding in between and not caking it on)
I thought the isomat had a very low sheen and looked a tiny bit blue tint.
If you want more sheen level... Have a look at semi gloss finishes. Videos on some paints like that live in a few weeks.
How does it stand up to hand oils? I’m having to repaint the paint on handrail and newel post quite regularly
this is good for that
Hiha bud whats it like for sparying. And what % water wood you add pair Lt for kitchen cabinet doors. And what uc/prime on bare mdf. Or whats your recommendation for any of the paints you get in Johnson's i can use.. thanks for your helpful tips 👍
Now... Those questions I can't answer as I wouldn't be using it for spraying kitchens.
Tikkurila Everal Aqua sprays very well and is great for kitchens.
Add water till you get it nicely spraying... HVLP?
Have tried this just the other day, DIYer only every used oil based satinwood and it is lovely paint feels ‘oily’ to put on and dries smooth as anything just learning to avoid drips on vertical doors as usually I remove and paint them flat. Looking to get some two fussy blokes rollers to try as only used brushes to date.
Might have just converted to WB…. just a bit concerned about runs on door frames and the like. Keep up the good work it’s great that you share your experience and advice with others 👍🏻
Thank you.
Light hearted question... Have you watched my video on how to paint a door by brush?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I have thanks and also using a synthetic brush albeit a reasonably cheap one for now. Did it how you demonstrated and it looked perfect no brush marks which was my worst fear then 15 mins after I finished got a few runs in the mouldings and one on one of the larger panels (6 panel door) which I know you can’t do much about by then. I’ll get there, first time I’ve used it and only had two coats to practice on. First time 1.5in brush, second 2in and I’d say first coat was more successful so perhaps too much paint second time but I think it was a better finish overall as I could work quicker with the larger brush 👍🏻
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator also I’m used to removing and painting doors flat so there’s plenty yet to learn!
Yes cost isnt that much small jobs but most decorators would buy a 5l tin white and use whatever..
£50 v £100. How many tins whiote a year would you use? Priced jobs with no spec its up to you get decent product as cheap as possible.
WRX QD satin comes in cheaper than aquaguard and sometimes on offer buy 3 get 1 free again this could be your profit pretty good paint be good hear what you think of WRX tested on channel.
It's on my list of paints to try
It's decent paint, sprays lovely also. Love the Channel and reviews Phil. Bought that Energer hvlp sprayer you reviewed, used it to spray a stairs, worked perfectly cheers mate.
That's a great bit of kit for £40
Subscribe and press the Bell... I've another sprayer... £65 review.. coming before Xmas. It's said you can spray walls with it as well
It has 100w more power so could be good.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator looking forward to it. If you have a chance try out the Erbauer eaps600 airless sprayer seen a few reviews on it, so bought one as a back up. It's a budget model around £200 but a little beast with rac x and ff lp tips. Ideal for beginners or professionals alike. On a side note, how heavy is Dorris now, with all those coats 🤣
It does weigh a bit more now lol
@Jonathan how much did you thin it to spray it?
I've used the aqua guard both brilliant white and tinted colours. Have to say it's outstanding,great flow if you work it quickly using a top synthetic brush. Great opacity and I think it feels really close to an oil based product. Lovely even finish overall. I've never scratch tested it though. 😁
Thanks for sharing
Out of interest bumble, what brushes do you use with the aqua guard?
Just got some of this to do my woodwork for the hallway and other busier rooms, glad you reckon it's decent! I thought it was a two coat system though with the 'hybrid' undercoat. I was going to go zinsser 123, undercoat, two top coats - going over oil based satinwood in white... I reckon I could get away with just the 123 thou according to what some say!
Have fun!
I'd do 123 then, 2x coats of the AQ.
Least you're giving it a good start to a water based system.
Problem with aqua guard is it only comes in Satin. Most of my customers prefer eggshell. It would be interesting to compare spreading rates with Scuff-x as it seems to go along way.
do they really know the difference between eggshell or satin?
My new fave waterbased satin
Hi Phil, can I use Aqua Guard on top of Dulux Trade water based primer/undercoat do you think? Thanks.
Yeah, give it a nib down... And two coats. Will be fine.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Thanks, will do that then. I was going to rub down my stair case woodwork, but it's so bad I'm going to strip it to bare wood and I have a tin of that Dulux undercoat primer unopened.
Thanks, great review. Going to get some Johnstone's aqua guard water based satin. Do you think that it would work well on my door frames and skirting which I've primed with Leyland trade acrylic primer undercoat?
Give it two coats.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator nice one thanks 👍🏼
Johnstones owners own leyland lol😅
Best on the market ✔️💯
Great videos. What do you reckon is the best water based paint for going over existing oil based glossed doors just like the one in this video? Cheers
hi, have you watched my video on painting over old paint yet?
love the longform content, i have found my people!. Does anyone know after painting doorframes/skirting in this that it would be ok to overlap slightly (for cutting in) with bog standard dulux easycare matt or will the satin finish repell it?.
Also 2 coats undercoat 1 coat topcoat or the other way around or does it not matter too much as long as a pur white is achieved?
Many thanks!!
One UC... and two top coats.
Watch my other YT video using aqua guard and the correct Primer/UC.
You'll go slightly onto the woodwork with your wall emulsion.. then do the woodwork last, cutting back into/onto the wall emulsion with your woodwork paints.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Oh the man himself!, thanks very much for the reply. Hmmm you know what i used zinsser 123 on top of 30+ year gloss, not amazingly impressed with it, on some doors it gripped well and on others just created a film that i could peel off with a fingernail. Sugar soaped but didn't key it with sandpaper which was prob the weak link. Thanks again and love that gold leaf wall and rust effect wall on your new reno!
@@multirevelator LOL.
Yes, it's me.
You still gotta sand the surface down.
Then 123.
For that to cure it's a good week too.
Have you watch the video I did on swapping from gloss, oil based to water based paint?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator No i don't think i did, prob where i went wrong!. Btw there is a new Zinsser product called B.I.N Aqua, i can't see how that is different to 1.2.3 however. Do a review!
@@multirevelator they've not sent me a can!!
It's similar to 123plus. But 123+ doesn't stop knots, the Aqua BIN is said to stop knots.
I only use Jono's Aqua Guard, cheers Phil 👍👍
do you use the UC and then two top coat.. as per the back of the can?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Hi Phil depending, but yes UC x2 TC also uses an atomizer to help level out.
Hi phill do use ever use Matt clear coat on anything you spray? Would you use it on a kitchen by any chance or a dining table
I don't,
Everal Aqua 40 gives a great hard finish to kitchen units.... paneling!! ;)
Does it self prime ?? Guess what I'm saying is can it go over oil based satin or does it need a bridge coat ??
If you read tye back of the can, it says prep tye surface and use the aqua Uc.
You'd be fine going over a previously water based surface.. give it a key and away you go.
Scuffex Phil for me faster to apply and drying time and great finish but like you say the cost.. with the gallon always carries over to the next job 🙌… Aqua gaurd is great finish but slower to apply .. isomat great finish but a hard working paint neat …. If I put my car in the garage I wouldn’t go for square tyres if there half the price compared to round to save money but it takes twice as long to get to the final destination…
Great vids 💪
tnx,
you make some valid points, I will add.... as we use isomat more now............ read the back of the cans.. you need to thin it 5-10% with clean water.. we go with 5%.. it's a different beast then. appplys better, flows out and when dry.. you see no brush marks (use a decent brush - we have arrowothy) you'd not know if it was wb or ob..... so very similar to ScuffX... and yes, drying time son both are very good.
I would curious to compare different paints with different brushes as you may find that some brushes and rollers work better with different types of paint. Another question I’d like an answer to is how many types of waterbased paints are there. I know you have PU and enamel based paints but are there other types
Also congrats on the 3k subs your smashing it
Thank you 🙌
It is a very decent bit of gear.
But I prefer to use the undercoat as a basecoat, followed by Aqua. Cheaper to use undercoat also.
😎👍🏼
brings it back to a 3 coat system then. :(
Might have a better chance of covering using the undercoat.
All depends on the background colour for 3 coats. It does say use the undercoat first. Just my way of using this product.
Love the vids and explanations.. 😎
Isn't the aqua undercoat a hybrid though?.....brushkiller 😬
@@Lloyd1885 my purdy brushes wash out fine. Trying out Valspar trade acrlic uc and satin this week for a change.
Hi Phil. My window sashes had previously been painted with wb paint 5 year ago. I have sanded the frames. i seen one video who showed using zisser 123 as primer & un. Then sand. The use again zisser 123 as primer & un sand lightly and apply a final top coat of Aqua guard. Tell me Phil ? Would this be a good finnish ? X 2 123 zisser light sand x 1 top coat of Aqua guard ? Or do u have any other advises ?
aqua gaurd is an interior paint, it will do what you what you ask. You don't need 123, as thats for grip primer painting. So you'd be better using the correct Uc for the Aqua Guard (they have anew one out now for it), then you put 2 coats of AG on, the finish would be fine though
I'm not a fan of AG.
I'd look at other paints in my product testing list and see if anything floats your boat to try.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator off hand what brand recommendations are better than AG as I don't have much time to watch all of your videos.
@@bsfbestshortfilmsonyoutube simple easy, Dulux Heritage UC. Then two coats Heritage eggshell.
Easy to apply. Great finish.
More specialist...
Isomat All primer and 2x Isomat Satin.
H&G all purpose primer/UC and followed by 2x TouchGard or ScuffGard (both good).
Really easy.... Bedec MSP, (spot prime with it, then apply two coats?
Or Bedec Aqua Advanced UC then 2 top coats of the Aqua Advanced Satin.
Thanks I want the longest lasting white mid sheen effec, satin effect. I done so much sanding away of the old yellow gloss from x 3 windows x 3 doors I want to use the same durable paint system for all. I just want to make sure it's professionally done so I'm not wasting all my efforts 😌 thanks possibly try isomat
@@bsfbestshortfilmsonyoutube Isomat All primer then the satin two would be a good choice.
Bedec Aqua Advanced Satin, over Bedec All Prime. Also would be a good option.
They won't go off being proper water based paints.
Is better than zinister all coat in white?
Two different paints.
All Coat. Is more a Bedec MSP compare product
Using my first tin of this Aqua Guard, finding it a bit thick and gloopy, pulling and dragging, it just doesn't have great flow. I too found it was like an OB to work with at first, but just not happy with it. Is it undercoat fussy? Primer fussy?
i think you need their UC tbh, I've a video coming you may like in a few Weeks
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Hopefully their UC will aid flow? I'm at a loss as to what happened, so I'm going to try the Aqua water based undercoat, I'll do a click and collect now and then sand the frame back down.
I revisited the door frame, wet sanded it back, applied the UC and then the AG. It's made the finish and sheen much much better with the UC. Not sure what happened previously with the pulling, as I'd actually done a bedroom a few days prior with it - AG on top of sanded down oil based and it went on fine.
The only issue I need to get better with, is sagging/runs occasionally. I used to get that a lot with Dulux Diamond, but the AG doesn't run as easily but it can still happen, even if I think I'm putting it on thinly.
@@atAntCYou're right, It is VERY undercoat fussy. Using it over Armstead, Crown or Leyland UC is nightmare fuel. Their own UC works really well with it, so I'd stick with that.
Brilliant video Phil once again , I know your a professional painter and Decorator like my self would you consider trying some DIY store paints just to see a difference cheers mate
Already one step in front.. in a few weeks a wb satin paint video goes out... £22 for 2.5ltrs budget/DIY enough??
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator brilliant mate, brilliant videos
like and share, like and share.. help me spread the word ;)
I'll be honest, apart from the stigma of being a pro rocking upnwith a DIY product, I've got no problem with using the retail version of branded paint...if it needs two anyway then why not?...plus its a lot cheaper, which mean the difference between winning and losing a job.
@@Lloyd1885 I think it may be a good comparison for diyers and professionals, because some of the professional paint seems to be losing some quality lately and the prices were paying to get a good job done for customers
Best value for money Phil,
Disappointed with it, been using over the weekend sadly painting over rubbol bl satura, after a key of a previous perfect surface, water based, it was drying and leaving to many brush marks not to mention runs. Can't believe the money I've wasted on brushes, additives and other water based trim paints trying to find a replacement for BL. Used to love trim painting but decorating is actually quite depressing now due to poor paints not to mention the cost.
how have you found ScuffX... that is more like Satura BL.. and be honest.. BL crept on you.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator haven't tried scuff x, frightened too because of the cost and not being happy with the finish :) agreed BL also run but levelled beautifully and the primer superb....... It also needed a good few coats........ I give up!!
Anyone got any tips on the 'brush killer' undercoat? (besides don't use it lol) Got some arriving tomorrow!
The Gloss?
Hmmmm.
No, just the aqua undercoat for the fully wb satin in this video. I guess just don't use your best brushes, a bit of water then wash out as best as possible. I'm used to just using water, perhaps I'd need white spirit or turps too
The aqua guard satin washes out fine.
The gloss.. well. Rinse with cold water, then some warm.. and soap.
If it doesn't come out... White spirit then some meths to get rid of the WS.
Re wash was warm soapy water.
See how you go then.
Cheers Phil, I didn't know about white spirit then meths, then soapy water. I'll give that a go if necessary
hi phil can use it on kitchen cabinets for top coat?
I can't see why not ... But I'd use Tikkurila Everal Aqua for that ;)
It’s excellent for kitchen cabinets but make sure you prepare the surface and use aqua undercoat 👌
So you reckon n I should use the Tikurilla Pal instead of this on MDF kitchen cabinets ?
Issue I have is my cabinets already undercoated with Leyland water based acrylic undercoat primer
Can I use the aqua on to of this for decent results ?
Wow,we been telling u,johnos all ways
So, value for money wise... This wins?
so far.. as the all rounder.. yep ')
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator airless vs hvlp for this on the next vid? haha
Hi Phil,
Would you use an undercoat with this on new primed MDF doors and skirtings meaning it would be a 3 coat system?
Would the Benjamin Moore scuff x only need 2 coats and save me time?
Thanks for your help.
As with anything bare, you need to prime it first.
So I'd say it as board as it's long.
Once you get a primer coat on, it'll want a nib down depends the quality of the MDF too.
An extra build up of paint does it no harm if you want to achieve a better finish.
Thanks phill in been saying how good it was for months.
No problem 👍
Johnstones all the way!!!!!! Leyland & tika are owned by PPG like Johnstones’s!
Like Audi owns Skoda and Bentley?
have you tried the Teknos future aqua? I found it really nice to use. The adhesion primer/undercoat can be tinted to the same colour as the topcoat too.
t's a hybrid. I have just painted furniture with it, but I'm not sure if it'll be as hard wearing as BM Advance. Did our kitchen with Advance a few years back and people thought we'd bought a new kitchen. And I'm an amateur DIYer. Only had to touch up one slight chip where I think the wife had scratched it with her engagement ring (despite the diamond being tiny 😉
Hi. No I've not, it's on my list to try out. Good to know your kitchen is standing up well.
I did mine in Tikkurila helmi 30 and that's doing well 5yrs on.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator We got Helmi samples but being an amateur I couldn't get a decent finish with the Helmi.
The Teknos is easy to use even for me, and the added bonus is the primer can be matched to dark colours.
If you use a ice fusion rad roller and lay it off with a brush its unreal.
Window sills looks so good. For me this beats anything hands down.
You need to try ScuffX then :)
Hi Phil, loving your work.
Is it self undercaoting
Going over a similar surface .. water based.. you'll get away with it.
Tye can does say use tye aqua Uc first on bare surfaces.. and also when a surface has been preped.
I didn't.. as most will use it as a 2 coat paint.. so we needed to see how it went.
Ideally you're better to start off with tye correct Uc/primer. Then you'll know you've given tye new water based system the best chance.
Thanks Phil. Been using the Bedec undercoat, satin and gloss lately and can't really complain it goes on really well but I'm going to try the aqua guard to see how it work's 👍
Aqua advance satin review is in a few weeks. Its very good.. as you know.
Three coat system.
Is this a hybrid paint? Brush killer? I’ve heard hybrid yellow very quickly? Is this true?
Yep. Not quite asy to clean brushes out.
Wash out with water, soapy water. Then I've done white spirit and finished off with meths... Then washed with warm water and soap again to bring some Arroworthy brushes back to life.
Slight yellowing.. it's more with the gloss.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator thanks so much for your reply phil 😀😀
Has anyone tried this in a tinted colour? I was going to go for Little Greene for some deep and rich satinwood colours but this stuff is obviously more hard wearing...
I have, a pale cream, no problem
Scuff x, for the main reason you can re coat it so much quicker. Get jobs done quicker and get paid. Secondly as you say a lot nicer to apply.
It does come down to the work and job you're on too
How many decorators rub down and double coat the tops of doors ??
I'd say none lol
Homeowner here! How does this do with brush marks? I’ve tried Johnstones water based gloss when painting a internal window and sill and the sill couldn’t get flat without brush marks. Tried rolling and got a better but so-so finish.
It's not too bad TBH... A decent brush helps ..
Even better for flow is ScuffX in my opinion.
We need subtitles for this man! 😂
press the subtitle button ;)
Think I'll stick with my tikkurila everal aqua 40
I agree with a lot of what you say but first off I would say, for the professional, this paint needs to to be put into the teardrop run brigade of WB paint finishes and the extra time and hassle it involves to keep checking this. Secondly, like Scuffx, it's not a brilliant white and doesn't do well on handrails. Frenchic outperforms all of the paints you mentioned on this front. I know.
Thirdly, I also like using Isomat Satin especially for the low odour but noticed it's not got the scuff resistance of Scuffx and takes a while to cure though I agree, it probably maintains it's whiteness much longer.
Let's face it, no big company is ever going to give us professionals what we want or what would make our labour less as their profits would dive, selling less paint. Independents maybe ?
If your paints running lad that's a you problem 😂
It’s the brush marks that bother me. Oil bases drys so much flatter and with zero brush marks.. these water based systems leave brush marks. Even with added floetrol. So annoying
which wb pains have you tried.. can't say I get brush marks.. the wb paint isn't like the stuff of 20yrs+ ago.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecoratorusing currently Johnstones aqua satin and gloss
@@antb3334 those are hybrid, brush killing paints. There's better paints out there you need to try.
Yeah after the rave reviews I'm disappointed also, brush marks/runs, think it's a case of trying to find the best of a bad bunch
Great video. Obviously BM is my choice. You can't really compare Ford to Maserrati 😀
That's two different leagues. People pay loads of money for F&B paints so why would you go with something cheaper for woodwork 👍
The F&B eggshell cost £110 which is even more than BM.
Just my thoughts
you do get 5ltrs of F&B, ScuffX is less than 4ltrs.
Johnos all the way 😍🙌😂
I use Aqua Guard quite often. It's a very good Hybrid Paint.. But!. It runs. Which is annoying.
It’s not a hybrid it’s fully wb
@@thorn99ification I've seen plenty of comments suggesting it could be a Hybrid. I use it on and off myself, so happy to be corrected on it.
@@Gar_Roberts the jhonstones water based satin is the hybrid easy to get confused.
@@thorn99ification whys it contain dearomatised white spirit then? Check the MSDS. The branding is also surprisingly vague with phrases like 'long lasting whiteness' instead of the usual non yellowing. And being sold as just water based tells you nothing, because that's what the aqua satin/gloss are sold as aswell.
Having used it aswell I would definitely say it is very hybridy aswell hence why likes to run. They make a big thing about how it doesn't ruin brushes too, so I'd guess that's why the white spirit is in there
the brushes wash out fine with it.
You want the one which is 30 quid cheaper and goes on without an undercoat so Isomat all day long🙌🏽
Isomat has an Undercoat/primer though................. a three coat system, you saw my video on them?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator no but I use it and it goes on preciously painted wood without for me unless fresh timber.
Great video's by the way👍🏽
good or not, I refuse to deal with johnstones after some shite customer service
what do you use instead?
Brewers sell johnstones
Leyland cheap & good
Waffle, waffle, facts, waffle, fact, waffle, waffle ... ad infinitum
15sec vids on tiktok for you then lol
Aqua grin