Great content. Loved that you spent additional time on the bench and sharing insights into the project and overall RC modding. Your content continues to get better each video. 🙌🏾
I tend to agree. This feels better than the original Max and way better than the max slash. I don't think we'll ever see this from Traxxas though because it directly competes with the sledge and like I said in the video I think it might be better.
Soon after the maxx was released and basically every large YT channel gave traxxas the recipe for success, as well as what "should" come next. They aren't responsive like arrma or a racing brand, but I was sure they were baking up the molds all the way back then.
@@DoRCcompared to what a “1/10”/1/8 6S XRT could have been, I think the Sledge existing was a mistake by traxxas. Any chance there is a way to make a sledge body work on this Slash Maxx platform?
@@vivos71 it's entirely possible. Given the design of the sledge body it probably would be better just to use a generic body with something like the proline mounts. I don't have a sledge handy unfortunately so I can't test it on there though.
Now, this is a Traxxas style monster truggy. Would be a perfect E-Revo replacement as even more bash friendly. But you're right about them sticking with the Sledge. They're invested at this point. Well done. Great video.
Yeah I'm honestly surprised they didn't do this. I kind of thought that it was because the platform couldn't handle it but obviously it can. This is actually a few pounds lighter than the max slash so it's not a weight issue. I guess they were just trying to directly go after the people that don't like plastic. Not sure
I have messaged Traxxas loads of times asking them to make a low center of gravity 4s Maxx XRT based on the 4s Maxx! When the Maxx Slash came out I immediately went through the parts list to see if I could do a chassis swap, I guessed that I could, but awesome to see that you have actually done it!! Ultimately I would love Traxxas to release a low centre of gravity chassis that is the same lenght as the Maxx v2 chassis, I don't really want the extra lenght of the Maxx Slash chassis, but it will do for now! :) :)
@@DoRC man, I just can’t see them sticking to $700 I think within the year it drops to $630-650 and probably a release of the Rustler or Revo. I know it competes with the Sledge but I’m at least 1400 into that pile of parts. Such a good video!
Brilliant idea. Who would have thought you could create a MaxXRT. lol. Handles rather nice too. Nice work!! Also love your take on plastics in RC's. I prefer it personally. One massive side on hit with my X-Maxx proved it. Everything on the front left side flexed so much it ejected a pin. Thought I'd wrecked it. Nope... found the pin and reinstalled it. Aluminium would have been a a huge amount of damage. These days we're not talking about old school Tamiya ABS anymore. Modern composite plastics can take a hammering. (They still hate cold weather though) Really think a lot of people need to hear this. I dislike adding aluminium to plastic cars for the exact same reason you mentioned. Awesome vid mate!
Wow! What an awesome build! Great vid! That is something I would love to do! I agree with only certain parts should be aluminum but aluminum parts just look so cool!
I gotta say, you are a man after my heart with the creativity. I had mentioned it in the comments in your previous video. I love how far you have been taking the builds lately. And also the honest feedback about the Max Slash not driving or handling as good as the Mojave. I had one on pre-order with a local hobby shop but just canceled it. I think your whole series on the Slash Max has been some of your best work so far. Lastly, can you tell me more about the Pro-Modeler servo or even do a video on it. I have been interested in that for a while, but can’t really find a ton of info about it. That being said I was interested in their one they make for the X Maxx specifically, or the 1/10 one that still comes with the bigger crown for the bigger servo horn, but I will take any info that I can get on them.
Thanks Glad you're enjoying. Pro modeler servos are top notch. I've never had a problem with one that I've used though I haven't used too many of them. That being said I'd recommend taking a look at the power hobby 760 for the X-Max. I've run them in several x platform vehicles and I've never had a problem with one of them either. They are powerful and fast.
2 things I noticed while doing this conversation on my maxx slash. Changing the bulkheads and shock towers is not needed as they are the same. And for body mounting, the proline body post kit for the maxx is a direct bolt on. I can't wait to finish this
Yeah in order to take a max and turn it into this all you need to do is swap out the center chassis center skid front and rear skids center drive shaft and the battery mounting. I'd swapped out the bulkheads on mine because the front rear bulkheads for my max already had all of the bits and pieces I needed attached to them. I imagine few people are going to be completely disassembling both a maxx and a maxx slash to do this like I did.
This is awesome. Exactly what I was talking about. kinda like a low CG Maxx. I'm surprised Traxxas didn't make this themselves. Seems obvious. cool video. I'd try installing 1/8 truggy tires.
Yeah and this is with absolutely no suspension tuning. I bet someone who actually knows what they're doing with that sort of thing could make it handle even better. I doubt I randomly landed on the best possible setup.
@@DoRCthe problem is that I sold my maxx to get a sledge…basically you kind of build a Kraton 4s competitor. But do you think it’s possible to build a lcg maxx v1? Using the center part of the Maxx, and the front and rear of the Maxx slash, you will get smth like a 4s outcast…
I was looking into doing this. Its the front and rear of a Maxx V2 and the center chassis of a Maxx Slash? How much longer is it and do you think you need the hex extenders?
Basically. Essentially you would need a V2 Max and then the center chassis front and rear skids center skid from the slash and then battery tray of choice. It's a couple inches longer I don't remember exactly it basically makes it the same length as a 1/8 scale truggy and the hex extenders aren't absolutely necessary but they do help keep it correctly proportioned.
Sweet!! That's pretty awesome!! I suppose aside from body fitment, just swapping arms, shocks and cvds from Slash to Maxx parts would effectively give the same results? I think what you've created there has the potential to be a Sledge killer!!!😂 As to the Max6 vs VXL6S, the biggest advantage IMO is BEC voltage. The vxl esc's are otherwise fine by me. Great job bro!! Love it!!👍😎🍻
You don't even need to swap the shocks. They're the same. The springs are different but I'm not sure which ones would be more appropriate. I think the bumpers are kind of important too because the slash bumpers don't really work well with anything but a short course truck. The front one might be okay but the rear ones definitely going to be weird.
Of course with the maxx chassie I took the sludge hammers off Put on belted tires turned the stock shocks in lower them 100wt . HOT RACING toe links to stop the shaking at high speeds then I learned a secret Change the gearing to 30/46 o yeah 20m diff all around front rear in a center put a wing on the back 3900 KV OUT ARRMA VENDETTA 72 MPH 4S BUT NOW I GOT THE 1515 Castle 6S NOT TESTED YET.
Nice job , 👍 looks like it performed better than both its counterpart, I like to run truggy race wheels , traxxas does have good diffs to take the pounding on ground . I know you guys prefer more air control.
All these models having compatible parts is a huge win. On your point about plastic, I do not understand the stigma around it. I suppose people think it looks "cheap"? I guess some don't understand how much plastic is used in automobiles these days. Plastic retains it's shape and metal does not! Some things are meant to flex, especially on a basher.
I think it just comes from the reputation plastic gave itself in the hobby years ago. Plastic used to be pretty brittle. It's not really like that anymore though
@@DoRCI noticed I can remove screws many times without stripping unlike the old days, what makes this plastic so strong I wonder what ingredients make it so tough 🧐
What's a good spring I can install for the front of my maxx slash as it keeps drooping once compressed... I've tightened it to the max and put 80 weight oil...
The sickness of the shock oil doesn't affect the ride height. If it's not returning when compressed there's a good chance something is binding. I'd recommend taking the shocks off and checking to make sure they feel smooth and don't have any tight spots then move the arms by hand and make sure there's nothing binding there.
Very carefully :-) seriously though I have my camera attached to my transmitter. It's not exactly easy to do but it's the best way I found to record by yourself.
@@ken-kamm no I'm just using a Galaxy s22. I actually recently bought an s24 but the camera on it is objectively worse so I ended up buying a blacklisted s22 again I'm using that just as my camera now. It's actually nice to have a device that isn't my daily use phone to use as a camera and I only paid like $150 bucks for it.
Hey man! Just found your channel. I love the detailed content. Epic build! I gotta ask, did you buy that maxx used? I ask because I sold a green maxx with kaiju tires with a shoe goo and taped body. It may be the same one! It had gpm springs.
Hello, I saw something, it may not be anything , but check ur drive shafts and outlive at full shock travel. It looked like the driveshafts are trying to bind at full travel???? U might have to limit the shock travel but 1/32 of an inch.
Haven't seen any issues. The front and rear suspension geometry are identical to the max because they're coming directly off of it so there shouldn't be any issue with binding
What is the best way to fit bigger batteries. I have 3s 6800 bashing batteries (6s) and they won’t fit. Rather not buy more battery’s so ive only ran it on 4s. Thanks!
Do I order it for a maxx v1? Or a sledge. I’m lost on which one to order. In your other video you said you were going to install it but never did and I couldn’t see a part number to order it. If you could reply with a part number that would be great. Thanks. Batteries aren’t to long just to thick and wide to put standing up next to each other to fit
Hi. I have a WideMaxx, what do I need to convert to the long chassis, I would like to build a Truggy out of my WideMaxx. If you could maybe tell me that, it would be very nice 🙂
I think I listed at the end of the video but you'll need the Maxx slash center chassis center drive shaft front and rear skid plates center skid plate Nerf bars if you want them and then whatever you're going to use for a battery mount. Any of the aftermarket sledge ones will work.
It would be cool though I have a hard time believing that they will given that it would directly compete with the sledge. They put a lot of money into that unique platform and releasing something that is direct competition and might actually be better so it would almost certainly have to be less money seems like a reach.
They do but in this case it's really not that much wider so it doesn't affect it too much that was actually the term I was trying to think of when I said further out from the steering pivot point. Sometimes my brain doesn't work very well :-)
You'll need the chassis itself, the center drive shaft, front and rear skids and some sort of battery mount. It takes the same Mount as the sledge so you can just get aftermarket sledge mounts. Keep in mind though if you don't have the wide kit already you're going to end up with a really long narrow vehicle essentially a 1/8 scale buggy.
Someone did the Maxx slash chassis on a wideMaxx, sledge body and wing, photoshopped the box calling it the "Maxx rustler" and social media lost there minds for a few days before realizing it wasn't real lol
Maybe. This is about the same length as a standard 1/8 scale truggy so you should be able to estimate from that. Of course you'll need actual body posts which you can get a kit from proline for.
If you're going 100% stunt truck get some silicone ear plugs at your local drug store and jam them in there. It pretty much locks up the center differential while still giving it enough movement to help protect the drivetrain
Have you ever run the Kaiju tires? They're really good. Too small for this truck which is why I switch to the copperheads at the end but they're actually very good tires
I don't think it would make a huge amount of difference. Unless you also went with the wider tires as well as the more narrow lighter body and lighter bumpers it's probably going to feel pretty similar. You'd also have to cut the body to accommodate the extended width.
It depends. If it's something that I am concerned might come out like a pinion grub screw I will clean it but most of the time no I just add more and call it good. It's not something it's ever really been an issue otherwise suspect if the build-up got big enough it could potentially cause problems.
@@Desauce512 I usually just do some strong IPA or brake cleaner. I've also got a wire wheel that I hit them on sometimes if it's convenient. To be honest with you I probably don't ever get them completely clean
@@DoRC Thanks for this info! I will definitely keep this in mind. Also for those A arms front and back I would suggest doing that WD40 trick soaking them and leaving them over night and they will be much much more durable/flexible on those hard crashed.
@Desauce512 yeah I don't really like doing that. Back in the day it was definitely a good thing to do but these days the plastics are already pretty well optimized and I have found if you make them too flexible you end up binding up drive shafts and breaking things that way.
Its kinda krazy that traxxas didnt come up with this and went with the slash version instead. I knew that the slash would handle like a brick with wheels. This was a great idea though
I have no doubt that they are aware of this possibility. It probably isn't something they're going to release because it would be direct competition to the sledge and quite actually be better. Given that the Sledge is a unique platform and was built to replace the E-Revo 2.0 I suspect they have quite a bit of vested interest in its success so I think it's pretty unlikely that they will release something that directly competes with it.
Edit: disregard. I assumed a $700 RC had steel driveshafts stock. Note that if you start with a maxx slash, you only need part 8996A and the wide arms to complete the conversion. 8996X would be redundant
Are you sure that's correct? It looks like 8996A is only the shafts and since the max slash comes with plastic axles out of the box wouldn't you need the rest of the steel CVD kit?
Not really. Especially if you picked up a used one but even a new one is going to cost you $570 for the maxx and then you're really just getting the center chassis piece, the battery hold down and center drive shaft. If you went used you could probably put the whole thing together for under $400. New under 600
@@DoRC doing it that way you have a 4s powered 8th scale sized rig. Add the 6s electronics that not everyone has laying around. I'd think just buying a 6s truggy is still cheaper.
@boduke9428 oops. You're right. I completely forgot about the electronics. He said if you bought the truck new you could probably get $100 for the motor and ESC without any trouble and buy an 8 BL 150 combo for 125.
Yeah the Savage Flux XL is a genuine 1/8 scale monster truck. The Savage Flux is more like a large 1/10th scale. That being said I don't think I'd recommend getting either one of those trucks. The platforms are severely outdated and they just can't handle what modern bashers can
I've got an idea for you rc Frankenstein How about the the maxx slash body on the asuga chassis the wheelbase are very close between the the two Make a corally shortcourse truck before corally does 😅
@django2467 yeah for sure. Honestly if I thought that a lot of people would be interested in seeing it I'd probably do it but I really don't think it would result in a ton of views.
I would just call it a stretched Maxx. To make it a truggy add a rear wing and a sleek body that looks like a truggy. But why? The Maxx Slash is awesome because it’s an ultra durable short course truck, not that many of those around. Truggys there are plenty to choose from
Maybe though I think that it's fair to call it a truggy because it's on an LCG style chassis. As far as I'm concerned the wing and body are simply decoration and I like to label things based on their functionality. As far as functionality is concerned this is a truggy. And why? Because it's fun! Sure there are plenty of truggies to choose from but how many maxx truggies are that it's used from?
Thank you for mentioning your take on plastic/aluminum. A lot of new RC folks need to hear this.
Yeah I think there are a bunch of old-timers that remember when plastic was crap that kind of perpetuate the misconception.
Also way cheaper if you break plastic to replace. Today’s RC trucks are so much faster and stronger. Great combo.
Great content. Loved that you spent additional time on the bench and sharing insights into the project and overall RC modding. Your content continues to get better each video. 🙌🏾
Thanks Glad you enjoyed!
Dr. Frankenstein of Rc’s I love it. Makes you think they should have made it this way to begin with
I tend to agree. This feels better than the original Max and way better than the max slash. I don't think we'll ever see this from Traxxas though because it directly competes with the sledge and like I said in the video I think it might be better.
Agreed, this is definitely a better performing set up…
Soon after the maxx was released and basically every large YT channel gave traxxas the recipe for success, as well as what "should" come next. They aren't responsive like arrma or a racing brand, but I was sure they were baking up the molds all the way back then.
@@DoRCcompared to what a “1/10”/1/8 6S XRT could have been, I think the Sledge existing was a mistake by traxxas. Any chance there is a way to make a sledge body work on this Slash Maxx platform?
@@vivos71 it's entirely possible. Given the design of the sledge body it probably would be better just to use a generic body with something like the proline mounts. I don't have a sledge handy unfortunately so I can't test it on there though.
Now, this is a Traxxas style monster truggy. Would be a perfect E-Revo replacement as even more bash friendly. But you're right about them sticking with the Sledge. They're invested at this point. Well done. Great video.
Yeah I'm honestly surprised they didn't do this. I kind of thought that it was because the platform couldn't handle it but obviously it can. This is actually a few pounds lighter than the max slash so it's not a weight issue. I guess they were just trying to directly go after the people that don't like plastic. Not sure
Great step by step breakdown and explanation, and nice experimental build!
Yeah it's pretty cool! I think I'll be keeping this one together for a while
Nice hybrid build! Traxxas knows how to make plastics (ie XMaxx) so folks should not be overly concerned about non-aluminum new releases
I agree. I honestly would probably take this over a sledge all day.
Absolutely!! Why buy a sledge when I can have your MaxxXL or 8-Maxx. I’ll leave the branding to the folks in Texas. 😂
I have messaged Traxxas loads of times asking them to make a low center of gravity 4s Maxx XRT based on the 4s Maxx! When the Maxx Slash came out I immediately went through the parts list to see if I could do a chassis swap, I guessed that I could, but awesome to see that you have actually done it!! Ultimately I would love Traxxas to release a low centre of gravity chassis that is the same lenght as the Maxx v2 chassis, I don't really want the extra lenght of the Maxx Slash chassis, but it will do for now! :) :)
Yeah they may or may not. It really depends on how much business they think it would pull from the sledge.
@@DoRCHow do you find this set up compares to stock Maxx v2 chassis from a handling perspective?
@@whome5810 way better. This thing actually handles well and I've never been able to say that about the Maxx.
@@DoRCAwesome! :)
Great video, I love these kind of conversions, can't wait to see more of this Maxx truggy
Thanks. Stay tuned I've got plenty more videos coming :-)
Also wanted to thank you for making aware of the 8BL150 G2. I've converted all my 6S rigs to that power system. And I'm loving it.
Definitely a great bang for the buck!
DANG!! I originally said nope but now I’m sold!! TRUGGY IS AWESOME!!! Great play!
It's a lot of fun! I definitely recommend giving it a try.
@@DoRC man, I just can’t see them sticking to $700
I think within the year it drops to $630-650 and probably a release of the Rustler or Revo. I know it competes with the Sledge but I’m at least 1400 into that pile of parts.
Such a good video!
That's so siiiiick! I've always had the idea/ thought of building a infraction/ outcast basher. I built a drift basher that was pretty sick
Yeah as soon as I saw this thing announced I knew I had to make this.
As much as I love my Maxx, this is def something I'll keep in mind, wild how easy it is to fit together without grinding any plastic away!
Yeah there's definitely something to be said for vehicles being on the same platform.
Was not expecting this! This is an amazing machine. Love from Kentucky
Thanks man! Glad you enjoyed :-)
Brilliant idea. Who would have thought you could create a MaxXRT. lol. Handles rather nice too.
Nice work!!
Also love your take on plastics in RC's. I prefer it personally. One massive side on hit with my X-Maxx proved it. Everything on the front left side flexed so much it ejected a pin. Thought I'd wrecked it. Nope... found the pin and reinstalled it. Aluminium would have been a a huge amount of damage.
These days we're not talking about old school Tamiya ABS anymore. Modern composite plastics can take a hammering. (They still hate cold weather though) Really think a lot of people need to hear this.
I dislike adding aluminium to plastic cars for the exact same reason you mentioned.
Awesome vid mate!
Agreed. I think that aluminum definitely has its place and has its advantages but plastics should not be discounted these days.
Nice! I do love the look of a true short coarse truck but this just looks like it's a blast to drive. Don't stop Frankensteining it!
Yeah the SCT looks good but this handles far far better
That’s sooooo cool, love seeing mods like these, keep up the great work 👍🏻
Will do :-)
Wow! What an awesome build! Great vid! That is something I would love to do! I agree with only certain parts should be aluminum but aluminum parts just look so cool!
They definitely do look cool!
That looked like it drives way better. Very nice
Yeah this one's definitely going to be staying like this.
Fantastic job!! Seems like a killer set up !!
Thanks it really is!
i am such a fan of composite/plastic a-arms over aluminum/titanium. it just makes sense for most road applications.
(edit:) my man with the dirt pick!
Got to clean those hexes :-)
Awesome video, really looked a lot more stable and fun to bash than the Maxx slash box stock. I see a frakenmaxx in my future.
Yeah I think it's definitely more than the sum of its parts. I expected it would be pretty good but I didn't expect it would be this good
come awwwwwn Jenny's RC! i need that slash-MAXX chassis in my life with a sledge wing.
I'm sure they'll get theirs in soon!
You are the RC kingpin bro absolutely sick truck ❤❤
Thanks man I appreciate it :-)
I gotta say, you are a man after my heart with the creativity. I had mentioned it in the comments in your previous video. I love how far you have been taking the builds lately. And also the honest feedback about the Max Slash not driving or handling as good as the Mojave. I had one on pre-order with a local hobby shop but just canceled it. I think your whole series on the Slash Max has been some of your best work so far. Lastly, can you tell me more about the Pro-Modeler servo or even do a video on it. I have been interested in that for a while, but can’t really find a ton of info about it. That being said I was interested in their one they make for the X Maxx specifically, or the 1/10 one that still comes with the bigger crown for the bigger servo horn, but I will take any info that I can get on them.
Thanks Glad you're enjoying. Pro modeler servos are top notch. I've never had a problem with one that I've used though I haven't used too many of them. That being said I'd recommend taking a look at the power hobby 760 for the X-Max. I've run them in several x platform vehicles and I've never had a problem with one of them either. They are powerful and fast.
@@DoRC thank you. Hey is the pro-modler fast? I may give the powerhobby one a try, but I have been in love with Reefs stuff lately.
@alankowalski8781 Yes it's very fast.
Pretty awesome idea !! Love doing what others don’t do !!
Me too :-)
2 things I noticed while doing this conversation on my maxx slash. Changing the bulkheads and shock towers is not needed as they are the same. And for body mounting, the proline body post kit for the maxx is a direct bolt on.
I can't wait to finish this
Yeah in order to take a max and turn it into this all you need to do is swap out the center chassis center skid front and rear skids center drive shaft and the battery mounting. I'd swapped out the bulkheads on mine because the front rear bulkheads for my max already had all of the bits and pieces I needed attached to them. I imagine few people are going to be completely disassembling both a maxx and a maxx slash to do this like I did.
@@DoRC definitely glad I found this video either way. Gave me the idea and I love it as I was getting bored with the maxx slash
@justindrumm8 it's a really awesome mod! Enjoy :-)
Atta boy!! Good job on jumping the gun on this!
Yeah the second I saw the slash I wanted to make this. I've just been waiting to get the actual / videos done so I could tear it apart.
Heck yeah @@DoRC
Yaaasssss! Thats what I was looking for! Slash XRT , the ShlaRT 😄
Yeah trust me I wanted to make this from the second die first saw the max/get announced. I just had to make my videos on the actual car first
@@DoRCthat’s the best “Traxxas” 6s
This is a cool hybrid 👍 Nice work!
Thanks!
Great video 📹 👍 👏
So cool to see 👀 😎
Thanks Glad you enjoy it!
Very cool build..
Yeah this is a good one!
Reminds me of 80’s Black foot Big Bear conversions we did. Nice video.
Yeah the ability to swap parts around definitely leads to some fun combinations!
What an epic build! I wanna see more such vids :D
Stay tuned! I do this kind of stuff all the time :-)
@@DoRC 😎👍
Awesome work bro
Thanks!
Very cool build, love mixing cars, i have a corally that is a mix of a shogun,kronus and a kagama, has all the best bits of each 👌
Yeah the TC cars share a lot of parts in common!
This is awesome. Exactly what I was talking about. kinda like a low CG Maxx. I'm surprised Traxxas didn't make this themselves. Seems obvious. cool video. I'd try installing 1/8 truggy tires.
The tires I was using at the end of the video are straight off the Kraton.
Ermmmmm Damn that looks pretty Fantastic 😍😎😍😎
Looks to handle better than any traxxas I have seen.
This is basically a 1/8th scale XTR 😎👍😊
Yeah and this is with absolutely no suspension tuning. I bet someone who actually knows what they're doing with that sort of thing could make it handle even better. I doubt I randomly landed on the best possible setup.
Omg I asked to Traxxas for this months ago and you made it!! No way, I predicted your build 😁💪🏼
I highly recommend it. It's good!
@@DoRCthe problem is that I sold my maxx to get a sledge…basically you kind of build a Kraton 4s competitor. But do you think it’s possible to build a lcg maxx v1? Using the center part of the Maxx, and the front and rear of the Maxx slash, you will get smth like a 4s outcast…
This car must be so fun
it's pretty good!
I was looking into doing this. Its the front and rear of a Maxx V2 and the center chassis of a Maxx Slash? How much longer is it and do you think you need the hex extenders?
Basically. Essentially you would need a V2 Max and then the center chassis front and rear skids center skid from the slash and then battery tray of choice. It's a couple inches longer I don't remember exactly it basically makes it the same length as a 1/8 scale truggy and the hex extenders aren't absolutely necessary but they do help keep it correctly proportioned.
You beat Traxxas to making a mini XRT.
I'm honestly not sure they will ever make this. It's direct competition to the sledge and it's kind of better.
Great idea and run very well perfect :)
Agreed. It's definitely a sweet setup
good Job - I just may do this myself !! 3 thumbs up
Thanks! But where did that third thumb come from? :-)
Very cool....nice work💪
Thanks and thanks for watching :-)
Sweet!! That's pretty awesome!! I suppose aside from body fitment, just swapping arms, shocks and cvds from Slash to Maxx parts would effectively give the same results? I think what you've created there has the potential to be a Sledge killer!!!😂 As to the Max6 vs VXL6S, the biggest advantage IMO is BEC voltage. The vxl esc's are otherwise fine by me. Great job bro!! Love it!!👍😎🍻
You don't even need to swap the shocks. They're the same. The springs are different but I'm not sure which ones would be more appropriate. I think the bumpers are kind of important too because the slash bumpers don't really work well with anything but a short course truck. The front one might be okay but the rear ones definitely going to be weird.
Great video for sure.. I already made one but yours is one of a kind different for mine
How did you do yours?
Of course with the maxx chassie I took the sludge hammers off Put on belted tires turned the stock shocks in lower them 100wt . HOT RACING toe links to stop the shaking at high speeds then I learned a secret Change the gearing to 30/46 o yeah 20m diff all around front rear in a center put a wing on the back 3900 KV OUT ARRMA VENDETTA 72 MPH 4S BUT NOW I GOT THE 1515 Castle 6S NOT TESTED YET.
@rcmarylandmillz8390 ah ok. Yeah I think the secret sauce really is the low CG chassis though.
I will see soon this Friday both my stores for some reason won't let me take one home keep talking about release date 😂😂😂😂
Best RC channel
Thanks Glad you enjoy!
Nice job , 👍 looks like it performed better than both its counterpart, I like to run truggy race wheels , traxxas does have good diffs to take the pounding on ground . I know you guys prefer more air control.
As far as I'm concerned it does. It's a really good truck.
Put a wing on it and you got a mini xrt 4s or 6s, awesome build.
I'm sure it can be done but I'm not really a big fan of wings. They don't really do anything for performance and just tend to get broken off
If they made a 1/7 or 1/8th scale XRT i'd buy it instantly lol. My favorite car
Well you can pretty much make one now with this bird
@@DoRC Well yeah but im a buy it ready to go guy :P And it would have to be a proper sized xrt body lol
Great video, thank you
Glad you enjoyed and thanks for watching!
Just keep making these awesome vids!
Will do :-)
That was an interesting concept. It is probably what they should have come out with instead of the Sledge.
I kind of agree. This is definitely more in line with the kind of vehicles that Traxxas makes.
I just ordered the wide Maxx kit for my Maxx slash 😃 called Traxxas and they said it should fit but they haven't done it yet.
It'll fit.
All these models having compatible parts is a huge win. On your point about plastic, I do not understand the stigma around it. I suppose people think it looks "cheap"? I guess some don't understand how much plastic is used in automobiles these days. Plastic retains it's shape and metal does not! Some things are meant to flex, especially on a basher.
I think it just comes from the reputation plastic gave itself in the hobby years ago. Plastic used to be pretty brittle. It's not really like that anymore though
@@DoRCI noticed I can remove screws many times without stripping unlike the old days, what makes this plastic so strong I wonder what ingredients make it so tough 🧐
A mini XRT. Nice!
Agreed! Thanks for watching :-)
What's a good spring I can install for the front of my maxx slash as it keeps drooping once compressed... I've tightened it to the max and put 80 weight oil...
The sickness of the shock oil doesn't affect the ride height. If it's not returning when compressed there's a good chance something is binding. I'd recommend taking the shocks off and checking to make sure they feel smooth and don't have any tight spots then move the arms by hand and make sure there's nothing binding there.
@@DoRC I did check that everything seems to be fine.. I just installed a stiffer spring to see how it goes... Hopefully fixes the issue.
@asoughi VG Racing springs are good.
How do you film and drive at the same time? You get some nice really close shots.
Very carefully :-) seriously though I have my camera attached to my transmitter. It's not exactly easy to do but it's the best way I found to record by yourself.
@@DoRC Got it. Are you using your phone or some kind of other camera?
@@ken-kamm no I'm just using a Galaxy s22. I actually recently bought an s24 but the camera on it is objectively worse so I ended up buying a blacklisted s22 again I'm using that just as my camera now. It's actually nice to have a device that isn't my daily use phone to use as a camera and I only paid like $150 bucks for it.
@@DoRC Thanks for the info!
@ken-kamm You're welcome thanks for watching :-)
Love it!! What do you use to record while driving? GoPro and a head mount??
Cell phone mounted to the transmitter.
Hey man! Just found your channel. I love the detailed content. Epic build! I gotta ask, did you buy that maxx used? I ask because I sold a green maxx with kaiju tires with a shoe goo and taped body. It may be the same one! It had gpm springs.
I did buy it used but it was bone stock when I got it.
I honestly love this I'll buy that just as it is❤
Glad you enjoyed but I'm not selling this one anytime soon!
Hello, I saw something, it may not be anything , but check ur drive shafts and outlive at full shock travel. It looked like the driveshafts are trying to bind at full travel????
U might have to limit the shock travel but 1/32 of an inch.
Haven't seen any issues. The front and rear suspension geometry are identical to the max because they're coming directly off of it so there shouldn't be any issue with binding
What is the best way to fit bigger batteries. I have 3s 6800 bashing batteries (6s) and they won’t fit. Rather not buy more battery’s so ive only ran it on 4s. Thanks!
As long as they aren't too long the best thing to do is get the hot racing strap style hold down.
Do I order it for a maxx v1? Or a sledge. I’m lost on which one to order. In your other video you said you were going to install it but never did and I couldn’t see a part number to order it. If you could reply with a part number that would be great. Thanks. Batteries aren’t to long just to thick and wide to put standing up next to each other to fit
Can I do the opposite so have a v2 maxx chassis and put maxx slash bulkheads on it to make it flat on the bottom?
No. Central chassis is the part that is different. The bulkheads are identical between the two cars.
I think you just made the first mini XRT! LOL
Pretty much :-)
is the driveshaft the same length between the maxx v2 and the maxx slash?
No unfortunately they are different.
Hi.
I have a WideMaxx, what do I need to convert to the long chassis, I would like to build a Truggy out of my WideMaxx.
If you could maybe tell me that, it would be very nice 🙂
I think I listed at the end of the video but you'll need the Maxx slash center chassis center drive shaft front and rear skid plates center skid plate Nerf bars if you want them and then whatever you're going to use for a battery mount. Any of the aftermarket sledge ones will work.
I hope traxxas comes out with an official version of the maxxrt
It would be cool though I have a hard time believing that they will given that it would directly compete with the sledge. They put a lot of money into that unique platform and releasing something that is direct competition and might actually be better so it would almost certainly have to be less money seems like a reach.
The wider hubs introduces a lot of positive scrub radius.
They do but in this case it's really not that much wider so it doesn't affect it too much that was actually the term I was trying to think of when I said further out from the steering pivot point. Sometimes my brain doesn't work very well :-)
So if I have a traxxax maxx v1
What’s orther the parts I need with the maxx slash chassi thanks
You'll need the chassis itself, the center drive shaft, front and rear skids and some sort of battery mount. It takes the same Mount as the sledge so you can just get aftermarket sledge mounts. Keep in mind though if you don't have the wide kit already you're going to end up with a really long narrow vehicle essentially a 1/8 scale buggy.
That thing fly
Yes it is!
Nice!!! Can you please put a link for those 5mm hub extenders? I have 10mm couldn't find 5mm? Thanks again
You can get them on M2C's website. I think they're 5 mm though I could be wrong. They're just the standard 17 mm hex extenders that they offer
8:45 please please please show a Video or a short where you show off the Maxx and your strap body mounting support!!! I NEED THIS 😮❤
This is for the X-Maxx but it's from the same company
ua-cam.com/video/aNyRtVs4gRU/v-deo.html
@@DoRC thanks mate!
Someone did the Maxx slash chassis on a wideMaxx, sledge body and wing, photoshopped the box calling it the "Maxx rustler" and social media lost there minds for a few days before realizing it wasn't real lol
Yeah I saw that. It was pretty obvious that it was homemade but still neat thing
What’s the part number for those m2c hexes?
1478
Will a 6s infraction body fit on it?
Maybe. This is about the same length as a standard 1/8 scale truggy so you should be able to estimate from that. Of course you'll need actual body posts which you can get a kit from proline for.
What diff fluid would you recommend for my outcast 6s center diff? Stock is way too loose lol, 100% a stunt truck for flips
If you're going 100% stunt truck get some silicone ear plugs at your local drug store and jam them in there. It pretty much locks up the center differential while still giving it enough movement to help protect the drivetrain
@@DoRC much appreciated, that's what I was thinking of doing.
I’m trying to figure out if I should sell my rustler and hoss
Maybe. Really just depends on if you use them anymore
That's a great idea.. other than the redcat tires lol
Have you ever run the Kaiju tires? They're really good. Too small for this truck which is why I switch to the copperheads at the end but they're actually very good tires
I am curious how the Maxx Slash would handle with just those hub extenders alone.
I don't think it would make a huge amount of difference. Unless you also went with the wider tires as well as the more narrow lighter body and lighter bumpers it's probably going to feel pretty similar. You'd also have to cut the body to accommodate the extended width.
Did you used the rear shock extenders attached from the rear control arms?
No. It probably would be better with them though.
when removing a screw that has loctite do you ever clean the screw or do you reapply the loctite over it and go about your day?
It depends. If it's something that I am concerned might come out like a pinion grub screw I will clean it but most of the time no I just add more and call it good. It's not something it's ever really been an issue otherwise suspect if the build-up got big enough it could potentially cause problems.
@@DoRC What kind of cleaner would you recommend to remove the loctite off the screw if it was to get worse over time?
@@Desauce512 I usually just do some strong IPA or brake cleaner. I've also got a wire wheel that I hit them on sometimes if it's convenient. To be honest with you I probably don't ever get them completely clean
@@DoRC Thanks for this info! I will definitely keep this in mind. Also for those A arms front and back I would suggest doing that WD40 trick soaking them and leaving them over night and they will be much much more durable/flexible on those hard crashed.
@Desauce512 yeah I don't really like doing that. Back in the day it was definitely a good thing to do but these days the plastics are already pretty well optimized and I have found if you make them too flexible you end up binding up drive shafts and breaking things that way.
Would i need the driveshaft from the maxxslash ?
You'll need the center drive shaft. I forgot to say it while recording the video though I did add it in as text later.
Its kinda krazy that traxxas didnt come up with this and went with the slash version instead. I knew that the slash would handle like a brick with wheels. This was a great idea though
I have no doubt that they are aware of this possibility. It probably isn't something they're going to release because it would be direct competition to the sledge and quite actually be better. Given that the Sledge is a unique platform and was built to replace the E-Revo 2.0 I suspect they have quite a bit of vested interest in its success so I think it's pretty unlikely that they will release something that directly competes with it.
Edit: disregard. I assumed a $700 RC had steel driveshafts stock.
Note that if you start with a maxx slash, you only need part 8996A and the wide arms to complete the conversion. 8996X would be redundant
Are you sure that's correct? It looks like 8996A is only the shafts and since the max slash comes with plastic axles out of the box wouldn't you need the rest of the steel CVD kit?
@@DoRC oh whoops. In my brain I assumed that a $700 RC came with metal CVDs already.
@dylanwhite6539 Yeah you would kind of think it should but no unfortunately it doesn't.
This is what I was thinking too
It's a pretty sweet modification! Thanks for watching :-)
I have to build one now @traxxas #TraxxasMaxxxXrt we need this imo best 1/8th
Go for! They are awesome ;-)
Awesome 🙂🙂
Thanks Glad you enjoyed!
I did it and it's Handles way better
Yeah it's definitely a fun truck!
Kenny you probably just leaked @Traxxas 's next release 😂
Maybe though I suspect this will never come from their factory. It would be direct competition to the sledge and in some ways it's better.
what traxxas shoud have made the maxx slash like, instead of this parchuting slash for 700
I think it would have been a better truck but this would compete directly with the sledge so they probably won't do it.
You’re the g.o.a.t
Thanks :-)
Wouldn't buying the truck and all the parts cost more than just buying a XRT or 8s Kraton?
Not really. Especially if you picked up a used one but even a new one is going to cost you $570 for the maxx and then you're really just getting the center chassis piece, the battery hold down and center drive shaft. If you went used you could probably put the whole thing together for under $400. New under 600
@@DoRC doing it that way you have a 4s powered 8th scale sized rig. Add the 6s electronics that not everyone has laying around. I'd think just buying a 6s truggy is still cheaper.
@boduke9428 oops. You're right. I completely forgot about the electronics. He said if you bought the truck new you could probably get $100 for the motor and ESC without any trouble and buy an 8 BL 150 combo for 125.
I haven't got 1 yet but the hpi XL is the same wheel base.
Yeah the Savage Flux XL is a genuine 1/8 scale monster truck. The Savage Flux is more like a large 1/10th scale. That being said I don't think I'd recommend getting either one of those trucks. The platforms are severely outdated and they just can't handle what modern bashers can
I've got an idea for you rc Frankenstein
How about the the maxx slash body on the asuga chassis the wheelbase are very close between the the two
Make a corally shortcourse truck before corally does 😅
I'm sure it could be done though it's not something it's terribly interesting to me just because I'm not really a huge fan of short course trucks.
@DoRC it was just a suggestion but short course trucks are one trick ponies
@django2467 yeah for sure. Honestly if I thought that a lot of people would be interested in seeing it I'd probably do it but I really don't think it would result in a ton of views.
Missing the Raz Algul outfit from Arrow. Or the Arrow outfit!
I'm not sure I follow this
Baaad aaassss 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
It really is!
I would just call it a stretched Maxx. To make it a truggy add a rear wing and a sleek body that looks like a truggy. But why? The Maxx Slash is awesome because it’s an ultra durable short course truck, not that many of those around. Truggys there are plenty to choose from
Maybe though I think that it's fair to call it a truggy because it's on an LCG style chassis. As far as I'm concerned the wing and body are simply decoration and I like to label things based on their functionality. As far as functionality is concerned this is a truggy.
And why? Because it's fun! Sure there are plenty of truggies to choose from but how many maxx truggies are that it's used from?
Nice.
Glad you enjoyed thanks for watching!
Bro you should put sledge shocks on this thing
Maybe though the max shocks are really good