@@joshuasmiley583 yes I put a new plug in,and checked after running it all day. The color was perfect not to dark but not light. With the 380 I had in it originally the plug was light, and the exhaust color was off it was definitely lean,but with the 440 it runs perfectly.
@@joshuasmiley583 I tried a few different jet sizes before I found the right one. I hope this helps point people with similar builds in the right direction, and can save them some time. Jetting can be a pain, and there are so many different combinations and variables.
Great build. That is called your shift star detent. You can mod the shift star and detent to make it easier to shift and find neutral. Keep up the great work
My clutch assembly has a jutter spring between the smaller friction plate and next metal. Is this necessary?, as I noticed the blaster in the video did not have one reinstalled.
Duly noted. I've been referencing your video pretty successfully this far in my rebuild of my 04. Didn't know squat about em prior. Have it down to the point of splitting cases now. ( Was all started by what I suspect is a shift fork issue, but who knows until I get there.) I've got a hot rods 66 mm crank rebuild I'm gonna do just for the sake its a stock blaster and after 20 years it's time for a fresh start. Comes with new jug and head. My Question is, with your crank replacement, I noticed you milled off a bit of something. Was it off the actual block or the jug where some rod interference may happen? And should I do similar to mine? Any other suggestions or recommendations are appreciated.
Thanks for your questions. I just want to let you know I had the same question the first time I did a blaster clutch, and it's a common question. In regards to your 2nd question, you shouldn't have to mill the case if it is a stock-size crank. The 66mm refers to the piston size, and I believe 66mm is the stock bore size. If your crank is larger it should say +3,+4, etc. Just to be on the safe side you can install the crank into one side of the case and use an impact gun to spin it at a decent rpm to make sure it is not coming into contact with the case. You can also compare your new crank with your old one to make sure they are the same size. If your new crank is larger you will need a spacer plate, or machine the combustion chamber deeper to accommodate the larger stroke, and mill a small amount of the case. I show how to mill the case at 28.07.
Case is split. Trans looks great, however there is some grooving in shift fork 1. The other 2 look mint. The wear is on the side opposite the #1. Any ideas on what could cause that?
Dude this video is informative and well done but it is literally putting me to sleep. You got my sub and thumbs up but next time please put a subtle background music or something
Thanks for the sub! I do most of my voice overs late at night while the kids are asleep. I will definitely put in some background music or something in my next rebuild video. I appreciate honest feedback like this.
You definitely don't need a crank installer/puller. The best way is the heat and freeze method. It requires no tools and works on evey bike. Unlike a cumbersome crank installer, they aren't worth the money!
Do not do anything this guy did he did it the sketchy way just go to a parts store and get a crank pulled and a case pulled then return it after this is not smart at all SO DO NOT RECOMMEND 😒😒
Just letting everyone know my final main jet was a 440 for the stock carb with no air box lid on,and the needle on the second clip.
Did you do a plug chop to confirm right jetting?
Great video by the way
@@joshuasmiley583 yes I put a new plug in,and checked after running it all day. The color was perfect not to dark but not light. With the 380 I had in it originally the plug was light, and the exhaust color was off it was definitely lean,but with the 440 it runs perfectly.
@@joshuasmiley583 I tried a few different jet sizes before I found the right one. I hope this helps point people with similar builds in the right direction, and can save them some time. Jetting can be a pain, and there are so many different combinations and variables.
@@larryc hey I have a blaster , do u know if not haveing the reed stoppers on the valves will cause starting issues?
BEST FULL REBUILD VIDEO BY FAR!!!!!!!!
Awesome video! Very in depth. I'm looking forward to doing this to my blaster!
good tip of advice next time get a crank puller tool because hitting the crank can damage the crank and throw it out of balance :)
Great build. That is called your shift star detent. You can mod the shift star and detent to make it easier to shift and find neutral. Keep up the great work
Thanks for the info 👍
great video but should of used a crank puller because you most likely threw the crank off by hitting it like that
Absolutely,, I agree
Best video I’ve ever seen done like this
One thing what is horsepower stock to what you built? Ty
Great video, amazing detail. Thanks
Great video! About to be doing this to my blaster!
Creator to creator. Excellent video bro!
Thanks bro!
Excellent work!
Funny how the stud in my blaster came out in the exact spot one of the main reasons I want 240 kit the thing
Great video, helped alot from South Africa 🌍😁
You do great work.
Larry you need to get a sport porting kit from Ken O'Connor racing it'll spice that engine up big time plus a 34 mm carb
I had to remove the airbox lid on my 2001 blaster big bore build..And i run a #240 main jet
You should do a video to compare the vitos 240 kit and ct racing 240 kit. They say ct gives more power and speed! 🤷♂️
Love it great video.
My clutch assembly has a jutter spring between the smaller friction plate and next metal.
Is this necessary?, as I noticed the blaster in the video did not have one reinstalled.
It's not necessary on an aftermarket clutch.
Duly noted.
I've been referencing your video pretty successfully this far in my rebuild of my 04. Didn't know squat about em prior. Have it down to the point of splitting cases now. ( Was all started by what I suspect is a shift fork issue, but who knows until I get there.)
I've got a hot rods 66 mm crank rebuild I'm gonna do just for the sake its a stock blaster and after 20 years it's time for a fresh start. Comes with new jug and head.
My Question is, with your crank replacement, I noticed you milled off a bit of something.
Was it off the actual block or the jug where some rod interference may happen?
And should I do similar to mine?
Any other suggestions or recommendations are appreciated.
Thanks for your questions. I just want to let you know I had the same question the first time I did a blaster clutch, and it's a common question. In regards to your 2nd question, you shouldn't have to mill the case if it is a stock-size crank. The 66mm refers to the piston size, and I believe 66mm is the stock bore size. If your crank is larger it should say +3,+4, etc. Just to be on the safe side you can install the crank into one side of the case and use an impact gun to spin it at a decent rpm to make sure it is not coming into contact with the case. You can also compare your new crank with your old one to make sure they are the same size. If your new crank is larger you will need a spacer plate, or machine the combustion chamber deeper to accommodate the larger stroke, and mill a small amount of the case. I show how to mill the case at 28.07.
Case is split.
Trans looks great, however there is some grooving in shift fork 1. The other 2 look mint.
The wear is on the side opposite the #1.
Any ideas on what could cause that?
So how was the power after? was it alot more or just slightly?
Quite a bit more on the low end, and slightly more on the top end. Top speed is about 60 so about 5mph over stock, but it gets there really quick!
Segmenti se pun in cilindru pentru verificarea distantei...0.4 mm...etc.
Świetny film pozdrawiam
Nice video
Just curious.
What thickness was the spacer plate you used .?
It was a 3mm spacer plate.
did i miss the part with the little ball behind the clutch basket with long rod???
It's @ 1:04:05
So can you just put the stock bore back on it if you blow it up?
Yes you should be able to as long as you make sure the 3mm spacer plate is installed.
Actually After thinking about it more you can't because the wrist pin bearing is larger for the 240kit.
Put a big bore 465 or 490 in a blaster
Dude this video is informative and well done but it is literally putting me to sleep. You got my sub and thumbs up but next time please put a subtle background music or something
Thanks for the sub! I do most of my voice overs late at night while the kids are asleep. I will definitely put in some background music or something in my next rebuild video. I appreciate honest feedback like this.
Ngl, I like it without the music. Makes it easier to hear and we came here for the information.
Fuck that. Music sucks.
You should dedicate to be a blaster mechanic straight up
Silicone on a copper head gasket ???
it not good, it is stupid idee
Where is the first ride vid?
Dude you need to contact Ken O'Connor
What did this cost total?
Around 950$ for everything including gaskets.
Check out HPM products Shawn Howell.
That poor crank you need a crank installer dy hammering it in you throw the crack out of trow
You definitely don't need a crank installer/puller. The best way is the heat and freeze method. It requires no tools and works on evey bike. Unlike a cumbersome crank installer, they aren't worth the money!
Do not do anything this guy did he did it the sketchy way just go to a parts store and get a crank pulled and a case pulled then return it after this is not smart at all SO DO NOT RECOMMEND 😒😒
silicone noobs