My tip when working below cars. 1. Watch out for the tow hitch 2. Watch out for the tow hitch 3. Actually remove the tow hitch and put it on the ground. 4. Do not trip over tow hitch.
Being a former mechanic, I like this thing, I miss the days of having access to 4 and 2 post hoists, so much easier and faster to do all sorts of work to ones vehicle.
Honesty - with all due respect - that's simply a 'junk' statement. Dude, it IS commercial grade, and we have professional mechanics using it daily. They tend to LOVE it... go figure… :P
Portable lift is a freaking game changer. I like being able to set up in my garage or when weather permits, my driveway. I finally got a portable lift after 15 damn years of wishing. I wish I had a four post though, I never feel 100% safe under any 2 post lift regardless of manufacture….but the accessibility a 2 post gives you under the vehicle is unmatched. My ONLY regret with getting a lift was not getting it sooner. Spend the extra $ to get the biggest you can get and get all the accessories…and do it NOW lol Love the show John 🇺🇸
2 post is the best really... i get your point about the 4 post, but that shit has reduced access and requires a shitload of wasted space just to exist... If you have proper flooring and anchoring, a 2 post is more than safe enough... The only time i have seen trouble with a 2 post is when apprentices fucked up the setup and put the lifting pads under the wrong section... Now, i`m talking about screw actuated 2 post lift, i don`t like the hydraulic setups... Hydraulics are remarkable and i love them as a mechanism, but not as a secure lifting approach, hard-stops and locking ratchets notwithstanding... Also, the 4 post is the most expensive variant, which is only really worth it if you have to work on properly heavy vehicles...
I recently bought one of these hoists after watching your first video. Very handy and works well. I’m not getting any younger so certainly beats rolling around on the ground going forward.
Back in the day [1960's - 1970's] we had an ancient hydraulic hoist, with mains suppling the energy to pump the oil around]. It also had an oil reservoir under pressure, so you didn't need the pump running all the time. It was basically an H -shape with the 'bottle-jack" central pillar [12 inch diameter] in the center of the "H". The arms of the H, were also H in cross-section, and you could slide in gismos along the top of the "H" cross-sections to adjust in all directions to align with the hard-points in the vehicle. The safety bar was just a solid piece of steel, about the diameter of a car prop shaft, which would swing down and lock into a hole in the bottom of the pit. It was absurdly simple and reliable, but it made some jobs hard, like some transmission removals. For grease-ups and oil changes, wheel bearing repairs/tire changing/brakes, replacing tie rod arms/steering, shocks etc, it was fast and perfect.
@@theairstig9164 It did the job though, and I am still alive, but that is just luck! A gormless teenage grease-monkey, what could possibly go wrong? :-)
Thanks to Nord for sponsoring this video, and thanks to John for including Tiffany in the segment. Nifty hoist, John. Would be great for wheel and brake work, as you pointed out. 👍
One point if using it for your welding bench. Attach the earth to the steel plate, not to the hoist. You don't want to spot weld all the joints together (etc).
Cutting Edge Engineering…….what a find! Kurtis and Karen kombine their skills and knowledge to produce my favourite show of the week, that’s Friday evening in Oz which is late night Thursday on the other side of the planet.
As a "lone wolf" kind of guy myself, I find it is almost enjoyable trying to work out how to do shit solo. I have erected two large sheds, pergola, two post hoist, picked up and installed an 1800kg lathe and numerous other projects solo. One of the go to bits of gear for a solo artist is a portable garage crane. I was looking at these single post hoists but it still takes up more room than I can spare. I am going with a full height scissor lift and bury them flush into the floor.
Wow, they started with the four post hoist and then went to a two post hoist and now they have a one post hoist. I’m stuck with a no post hoist, it’s called a jack😂😂😂
Kudos to u JC for giving Kurtis & Karen from Cutting Edge Engineering a plug. His channel is awesome for showing people what’s possible in an engineering shop. Agree on the waffle pod slabs possibly not adequate to support the hoist loading, particularly if some number cruncher has only specified an 85mm thick slab.
I do it my way which is crack the wheel nuts / lug nuts while on the ground and the jack in place . And the jack tight against the car and ground but not yet lifting the car . Once you have done the cracking part lift enough so that you can put the spare HALF WAY under the car so that if the jack fails it gives a safety gap of about 6 inches or so . Then bang away .
Interesting that you mentioned Kurtis from Cutting Edge Engineering. That guy does some amazing stuff and his wife Karen is so good on the video. One of my favourites.
I take issue with someone from Australia talking about corrosion 😀Every video I've seen of someone working on a car in Australia, the car undercarriage looks clean enough to eat off. May you never encounter the joy of working on a North American rust belt car.
My tip to remove a stuck wheel is put the wheel nuts back on but leave them loose, put the vehicle back on the ground then shake the shit out of it sideways and the weight of the vehicle will do the job. Another method, without a flat tyre is loosen the nuts as above and drive slowly swinging from left to right. You can often feel when the wheel breaks loose.
Donkey kick has never failed for me - but I do get what John was saying about if it's on the tin-can scissor jack and the car is halfway into the ditch on the side of the road, it could slip off if you belt it - so I'll definitely try to store those suggestions in case I'm ever in that situation.
" and the weight of the vehicle will *SOMETIMES* do the job" Fixed that for you. My gf used to have a car (with steel wheels nonetheless) that always had stuck wheels, even with liberal application of anti-seeze. Nothing short of an 8-pound sledgehammer would dislodge those wheels.
I have a Hero Hoist motorcycle lift with the air option, the pump failed out of the box, but they gave me a new pump instantly, I had to drive back to the shop of course but that's life. New pump and it's built as cheap as reliably possible, no real complaints, made a few mods but all in all its a quality product for 1/5th the price of other motorcycle hoists. Also I put a new o-ring in the failed pump and now it works perfect, for another project one day.
Good video John I lived in Canberra for eight years at one of the new suburbs up there. Called Franklin They basically exclusively use waffle slabs I’ve seen a regular car jack punch through the top layer of concrete into the foam underneath at a residential garage while someone was doing a DIY job on the front end …….. Unless the single post hoist can be lowered off the four bearing type wheels whilst in use and distribute the load throughout the whole frame onto the floor……. I would stay away from it if you have a waffle slab Unless you can get a massive sheet of steel checker plate and turn it upside down and do something like that but it’s starting to get too difficult .
Because the first one of anything is always sort of a question. I had to watch this because I got my two post hoist delivered last week and will be having it installed next week. The first time I "helped dad with the car" I was about eight, he'd taken wheels off both sides and hadn't noticed right and left hand threads on the studs. We ended up pounding out half a dozen and replacing them. Those were good days for "auto parts stores". I was shocked a couple years later when pretty much all cars had right hand threads on all four wheels. I always ran the lug nuts on each set of studs with Anti seize. I buy a cross type lug wrench for each vehicle, been on the side of the road too many times changing a flat. That's a good looking lift, I'm really looking forward to my two poster being installed and getting to use it. Always an interesting show, John, Thanks!
Couple of things you really should bear in mind: your garage's concrete floor is unlikely to be rated for lifting your jacked F-150 with the bed full of junk on this puppy. Also, don't shake the baby, NOTHING is going to survive doing something dumb like using a hand wrench to torque or un-torque your lugs holding the thing in the air - even mechanics with HUGE fifteen ton truss-arch pawls do that on the floor.
Given how badly people use forklifts. .. id almost say youd need a phd in being careful and a bachelor's in understanding load distribution to use this thing safely. Im not saying its badly engineered. Im saying people fk up when these things are bolted to the ground and have 2 posts... If i was that company id make people sign wavers.
Wow! I am so glad to come across someone else who uses anti-seize on wheel fastenings. I have done it for nearly fifty years and have never had an issue. The benefits have been experienced many times however.
Have had one of these, a different brand though for a few years. Ideal for small garage' s mine goes up to 2.0m. You need to ensure the floor is very level. I have made an adjustable prop which stabilize s the vehicle when swinging on stubborn bolts and nuts. Great tool for the home workshop if you have the height. My post is 2.5m high.
John you did the old school wind the nuts on 1st. But I am surprised you didn't use the 2nd part of that method. The nut is rotated anticlockwise on the bolt until the nut clicks to show the start or lead thread of the bolt which stops any chance of cross threading. I don't put that much copper grease on my threads. OK, my wheels and tyres come off every 6 weeks or so to put on my R spec rubber for the Mt Cotton hillclimb and the wheels will come off again after the meeting. Because I am removing wheels and tyres so often, I always observe the "find the start" of the thread. I can still hear the voice of the old blacksmith from a small country town in QLD telling me to do that.
Having a hoist in my garage is #1 on my lotto win bucket list after shimmying on my back under my Sportage to get the under tray off and then the simple job of draining and refilling the transmission. Then shimmying around again to put the tray back on, and then calling the chiropractor vs the hour long job with a hoist and no chiropractor call. Yeah, I know which option I would pick.
I have a two post lift and I am meticulous about knowing the CG of anything I lift so that I can center it. I'm somewhat leery of the single post. If you do much car work you really, really do NEED a hoist. I do endorse your use of additional stands under the car with the single post. I have a full inventory of murder machines. Bathtubs, bicycles, lawn mowers and chain saws always top the list. Anti seize on the lugs will alter the torque spec and I've had some discussions with tire shops about using anti seize and then using a Torque Stick on an air wrench. I learned long ago to take my torque wrench when going to an unknown tire shop just in case they don't have one. I have known them to both cross thread or snap studs by over torque. Or leave them loose and have the nut run off. Then when they offer to fix the problem I decline their kind offer and take it back to my shop. If they bugger it up I don't trust them to fix it. And I won't be back to that shop, ever.
Broke a 600mm breaker bar trying to remove lug nuts after getting new tyres on my wife's car. Bought another one, went back to the shop and asked them to loosen the lugs using the new bar. Got several new studs and one tyre refunded after they couldn't remove any without the rattle gun. Butchers.
Another mention of Kurtis at Cutting Edge Engineering this week John! Time you flew up to do a video with him. Maybe a workshop tour where you can drool over his big toys!?!?
Thank you for this episode, a refreshment of many practicalities related to even simple jobs. One watch out with raising a car on a hoist by less experienced DIY mechanic you might have mentioned would be: be careful not to hit the garage roof with an open hood (or bonnet). This thing, when opened, sticks out even higher than the roof of a car and is sometimes forgotten while raising a car.
Remember most concrete garages only have a skim coat on them. That issue must be looked at first by some kind of engineer-qualified tech person. You only get one life.
@@luckyguy600 - Yep. It's a concern to see blasé comments from the know-it-all, never RTFM [read the f***ing manual] community saying that nothing can possibly go wrong, that safety concerns are for girls, and assuming that all shed, garage, workshop and back garden concrete slabs are built to the same high standard out of premium quality materials. There'll be guys using this hoist with it supported by bricks, concrete blocks and wooden planks. It's worth remembering that EVERY mechanic lying crushed beneath a vehicle considered himself to be an expert on handling heavy loads. I'm not criticising the manufacturers of the portable hoist, but I think it's asking a bit too much to expect Joe (or Bruce?) Public to use it responsibly.
You may reconsider how easily the average 'Joe' gets a car licence…? There's NO screening for attitude or aptitude... If I detect a casual, ignorant attitude to the product - it will NOT be sold to that person. Could the same be said for car salespeople? Dwell on that - please… @@EleanorPeterson
@21:36 Many of the entry-level click-type torque wrenches in the US are marked in pound-feet useful) and kilogram-meters (useless). Fortunately, converting those rare (for the US) newton-meter torque specs to pound-feet is pretty easy to do.
Had a situation on a major highway couldn't get the rim off the axle so just grabbed the can of spray seal goop and drove home to swap the tire then took the mess to the nearest tire store the next available opportunity. I now carry a can of that in each vehicle I own. Sure its going to be a mess in side the tire but in this situation. Normally would swap out the wheel out but first time had the experience.
Mate, I just watched that twice. First time on 1.5 speed and second on normal taking notes. Twenty eight minutes of pure gold. Ima Makita man but hold my self cheap, as my fat cave could not accommodate such a machine as the single post hoist. Commentary on thread grease/lube warrants its own special.
Hi John I do have real-world experience in galvanic corrosion .. I'm a shipwright. .. I wouldn't use Aluminium and Copper anti seize in close proximity ... Id use nickel tech Nickel ant seize in this situation ....and I have been using it for years on boat trailers..cheers mate ..
Up here in Germany, we technically have summer and winter and both seasons have their own tires on separate rims. So the rims made out of down under reddish dirt (after a long process) are only having 6m to attach to the steel hubs and then have to wait for 6m in a storage area w/o their beloved iron friends. BTW, by naming the screws as „M something“, you immediately disconnected he viewers of the richest country (no debates pls.) on earth. Metric is evil because metric is French and you might know Frenchman are the arch enemy (of us Germans) 😂
I now have visions of people buying these and using on non level driveways and watching the hoist or hoist/car combination wondering off down the road.
I have one the exact same, apart from the colour, would not be without it, I had 8 two post lifts and two four post lifts at work when I shut up shop but this mobile lift is just perfect for home use, I can even move my Mk2 Jaguar on it (not recommended)
The brand new first year in use high school I started at had an automotive workshop complete with a drive on car hoist. It also had a standard roof height so the car could only be lifted about 1 metre off the ground. Even us tiny year sevens couldn't fit under that! :P :O
🌟I've had one of these since 2020 and it is very useful. Important to have a flat, level surface. Clutch on fore and aft engine transmission orientation is not possible, and anything but a tail section on an exhaust system the same. I have mine at the front of my workshop. When I have a campervan in for work I just wheel the lift to the far end. Easy peasy🏴
Leave your lug nuts threaded onto the studs a few turns and beat on the wheel to your hearts content. knowing that even if it falls off the jack, it'll just land on the wheel. But, if you fin't fit under the car when it isn't lifted on a jack, then do not get under it when it is lifted if you feel that the jack is not completely secure. Maybe through a single jackstand in your trunk along with a piece of plate steel or aluminum to fit under it in case you are driving on dirt roads.
Hi Charles, if you like the idea of portability, and you want the smallest footprint model on the market (just 3.460m long x 2.635m wide) - our 9S is a no brainer. Full lift height, 4000kgs capacity and will happily accommodate any average length wheelbase car, compact SUV etc… www.herohoists.com.au/images/lk9s-qld2--1200.jpg
19:39 Have been doing this for years on my cars, living in a state that puts down a 2 inches (5cm) of salt for every inch of snow, I have seen my fair share of stuck wheels and lug.
If you don't want to worry about your car falling to the ground while wailing at a stuck wheel with whatever you've got, simply back the nuts off two threads from snug to prevent the wheel from flying off the hub and mangling wheel studs, still snug enough to keep the wheel on if the jack fails or falls.
Great editing, and a very uplifting and useful episode, full of good tips too. Just about to go click clicking to find out how much they cost. Many thanks David in the UK
The bearing stress must be fairly high. 2T vehicle and hoist resting on a small area. 20kN/ say 4x100x100mm = 20,000/40,000 = 1/2 MPa bearing pressure. Fine on almost any concrete. Check with your engineer for waffle slabs. Not good for use on any dirt.
Yup - a standard garage slab in good condition is usually fine. If owners let themselves be guided by the minimum slab spec for a 4.0T 2-Poster (even though this hoist isn’t bolted down) they’ll be fine. The hoist shouldn’t be used on asphalt unless a sheet of steel is laid underneath it… likewise any uneven surface shouid be compensated for by placing countermeasures under the base… to level things up… Common-sense MUST prevail when using this hoist - or ANY hoist… By the way... we WILL offer a temporary ‘bolt down’ option very shortly - so all the fear-mongers can be silenced… Stay tuned… An overloaded situation is already prevented by dumping hydraulic fluid back into the system if anything over 25% of the rated capacity is detected. We will probably enhance that system in future iterations of this hoist. It’s good to know however that anything up to 3125kgs will NOT ‘break’ the post… Thx, Rohan Hero Hoists (Australia) 🙂
just a word of caution, as someone else mentioned the floor can be an issue. a lot of modern housing they make ribraft floors, even in the garage, so there can be very little concrete under the jack, stand or hoist. a person over here died from the jack punching through the concrete while jacking up a car. i suggest finding out how the floor is made before even using a jack, let alone a hoist.
Back when I changed my own oil I would examine stuff under my truck to make sure everything was right. But laying on the ground to do this usually resulted in a nice nap.
Do you ever run some lubricant around every bolt , for future disassembly ease? Has been great for moving house and pulling apart dads full gym setup.. perth , Darwin, canberra , hobart, Wagga wagga , swan hill vic. And now , Melbourne.. ( he ran hospitals Australia wide... Retired now .
Couple of things: nice hoist; wow, really nice shop John! Here in the Glorious People's Republic of Canuckistan, we head off the stuck alloy wheel problem by the fact that twice a year, we have to swap from all-season to winter tires, and back again. See how forward thinking we are? 😁 Even then we still get the odd wheel/hub combo that "love each other very much". In the worst cases, we will put the lug nuts back on, but not tight, then drive the car like a drunkard, weaving back and forth at low speed until we hear a satisfying pop sound. At that point, we creep back to the garage and finish the change over. Primitive but effective. Cheers!
certainly a good way to tweak the rim or crack it. Big big btw: instead of using winter tires, the newer type tire called 'all weather' is the real deal, particularly Michellin's version, imho, tho Nokian has one too, called WRsomething. Mich's is the Cross Climate 2. Smooth, rugged, grippy yet long wearing and actual winter /ice snow capability. They defy everything we thought we knew about the materials science of tires. If i lived in snow area i would absolutely buy them, and even rainy areas i will.
What does Tiffany dream after she gets her Dior bag? A Chanel bag, it was a long time ago when she dreamed that she could pick up two pens instead of always one at a time
Warning - don't put a BEV on one of these ! John - would have been helpful if you had said a bit more about floor loading and how thick the concrete needs to be etc. Yeah, and a price would have been interesting, too.
That's an interesting comment. Is it because the battery pack is centrally located? Or, how do you think the hoist could be modified to accept an EV? Price is $5,589.00 incl GST + Delivery + Installation. We do a little better for Auto Expert viewers who identify themselves at time of enquiry… :)
@@Jonno2020 As this is a portable/freestanding design - no slab specs are specified. Minimum depth for a bolted down 2-Poster is 100mm. And that’s for a capacity of 4.0T to 4.50T. Going on this, I’d suggest any standard 100mm slab in good condition would be fine. Keep in mind the SLOPE is more important than the slab thickness for this hoist. There’s certainly easy ways to even up the base of the hoist once it’s lowered of course…
Pro tips: if your rim is stuck on in such a situation. Put the lugs back on just finger tight, lower the car down and just gently drive it back and forth a couple feet. The weight of the car will help break the bond.
The only "problem" I see with using anti seize not the person it put it on its the next guy. Not sure you average tyre shop guy is going to pay any attention, so say 100ftlb that should be only torqued to 70ftlb because of anti seize ends up being 144ftlb. I guess one just has to hit them with the wench lol.
Thanks for reminding me about “Having seriously dangerous killing machines in my shed” love your accurate description of danger with these types of lifting gadgets. Regards
Magic when I did my time as motor mechanic for a dealership we only had jacks and axle stands Was just standard practice then In the late 80s we got 1 just 1 it was fantastic Then dealership went broke not sure if they’re related 😅
Whoa, if I owned a job shop, I'd buy two of these right off the (in your case, Ausstralllian cricket) bat. If you're at that awkward 2 full-time, 2-part time in a 2 bay garage-- just what you make up for in lost idle labor time will pay for itself in a year. (Especially if you do brakes or drive train work in rusty tri-state or New England). It looks great at the structural members and bolts. It's interesting to see they're using roller chains unlike the standard wire rope. One concern I've got is I'm 95% certain those buttons are the standard eBay actuators you get. Those won't do well with dust or oil ingress overtime, but then again I'm sure they've done their homework. If it was shit, they'd be dealing with warranty claims, so it's probably good enough. But generally Chinese shit will be good for say, 30k switch actuations, compared to the same Japanese component which will be good for 150k. That pendant didn't look like it had an e-stop either. While I don't think it's necessary to have (especially with an "interlock" system) to be compliant with IEC/ISO/VDI/whatever, I don't think I've ever used or spec'd anything without one. I'd 100% trust a fully-tested name-brand post pendant from the 1970s off eBay for $300 over this. I know you're not supposed to even be actuating the cylinder unless everything and everyone is 'safe' but ...yeah. I'm reckless but the two things that scare me (other than neurodegenerative diseases) are lifts/hoists/cranes (basically anything to do with logging) and air compressors (oh you're giving away that 80 gal Ingersoll-Rand scroll compressor??!! for free?!?!oh, when you pulled the drain there was some murky red... yeah no thanks) (Pro-tip: on the jacket of cabling, you'll see embossed markings for the characteristics and what certifying bodies to which the unit complies. In general, in 'merikka you should see at minimum "UL". Anything made in the last 30 years should have "VDE" meaning...something Deuscheland Electrical....something. CSA is Canada. If you see all 3, and the product is legitimately certified (some vendors :cough: will copy jacket extrusion markings, but won't copy the actual engineered prescriptions) you can be fairly sure it's safe to use in the proper context. The most common domestic markings are: S(evere service) J(unior) - rated 300v, if absent, 600v O (il resistant, only on the outer jacket) O (if a second "O" is on the label, that means there is also oil resistance for the insulation rating) W (W or very rarely W/W - weather/water resistance= UV,water,O3,general weathering erosion.) If've left double-run cables for shit like running Christmas lights in my garden, in the middle of brutal Boston winters and then left the cable out the whole season only to use it again. I just capped Vin and forgot about it for 10 months. No breaker pop, worked just fine. There's a whole 'nother rating system, generally found on industrial gear, taking the form "IP##" which you can look up at your own leisure.) Finally, on the hydraulics end - I tried to check their site and they didn't say how/if they rated their hoses. I might be dumb. They should all be minimum 1.5x proofload (2.5x is what I spec all my shit for) and designed for the appropriate dynamic impulse. Also, I feel ehhhh about not having a secondary cylinder like a standard two-post. I know there's a secondary, but lock, but even then, if it's built like I think (pawls every 6 inches or whatever, that pivots in to clear the post on a spring-pin via that electromag to allow for descent; otherwise it spring-returns to its default behavior, acting as a catch on the post). There's just something about being able to put a safety pin in myself (like, on a bench press) that gives me (probably a false) sense of safety. If only because after a few hundred times, muscle memory will develop and act like my own Magnaflux Overall this is awesome for the wrencher. This would have been a dream when I was 22 and renting a house with 3 of my car nerd buddies.
Ive worked on cars in my girlfriends single car garage and its horrible trying to get the car on jackstands because there's not much room. This would be awesome and although its more than a 2 post launch lift + installation... I still want one...
I'd always add the stands under it like you did... I know the steel is flexible, but your car was moving so much I could hear the paint on the hoist cracking.
good to see lft king still operating, they sponsored my website some time ago. from a professionals view point, i would find this hoist a little in the way the way the arms reach under and accross the floor pan. be good a service hoist and for diy'ers much like the belly hoists and 4 post hoists. i prefer 2 post hoists as the cause as little interference as possible.
The only comment I have regarding the anti-seize is that I would be a bit more careful applying it to the hub flange. Personally I use Wheel Hub Paste from Liqui Moly on the flange as well; but, I make sure to not get any on the mating surface. As for the hoist, I love the idea; alas, I don't have more headroom in the garage to lift a car.
Sir, I forget how to do a power cord back up properly so it comes back out untangled. Over/under? Something about flipping the cord ... or is it chord, wait that is music. I bet a lot of viewer could possibly get something out of gathering up a long line properly; be it for power, tow ropes, holiday lights, etc. Of course I could just go look it up and probably will, but always enjoy hearing it from you; the older brother we need but don't deserve.
The gear you can get these days for an affordable price is amazing. I have a torque wrench I bought 40 years ago that has kg-m. Never used that scale tho! The wrench is fine thanks, calibrated it at work, bang on. And what's with the Mericans using pound feet? Technically correct, but I was born with foot lbs in my head. Oh, and congrats on knowing how to roll up an extension cord. Cheers john
Wow John, not ripping the ass out of the EV industry today. 🤣 good job. Always worries me these hoists, safety wise, love the addition of the extra stands for walking under, Similar concept to shoving the wheel under the car during brake work Thanks for the sales pitch. Didn't want to frighten us with the cost?
$5,589.00 incl GST + Delivery + Installation. Of course, you can pick-up and/or DIY. Sorry - the website prices are very 'old'... :P Will be updating them shorty… * Mention JC's video review for a slightly nicer price… Thx, Rohan 😊
An expert would not bang the wheel’s paint with an impact gun. I always start and finish the lug nuts by hand (do use a small impact gun in between to save time).
Now I've watched to the end, thankyou for saying start wheel nuts with a "finger start" before grabbing a rattle gun, and, then torquing a 2nd time, so much to say about your good information.
This happened to me. Tradies lost wood screw that they charge you $10 each for in tyre. Tried to take wheel off to take up the repair shop. Wheel stuck on with lug nuts removed.
John, not all cars use sill panels to lift. You do that on some cars and the door will never open again. What you should have said is consult your owners manual for the location of the lifting points.
@@AutoExpertJC try it on a ranger . Your missus will be showing episodes of dukes of hazard explaining how they have to get in and out the car now . Then you will be explaining to the kids why the missus doesn’t wear underwear. I don’t know which one is going to be harder to explain, the one where you should touch cars and you did or the one where the missus likes the feeling of wind blowing through her hair.
Old School Technical Officer associate degree here, your videos are so on the money not too dumb and not too advanced, kudos respect
Thank you very much. Means a lot, coming from someone with runs on the board.
My tip when working below cars.
1. Watch out for the tow hitch
2. Watch out for the tow hitch
3. Actually remove the tow hitch and put it on the ground.
4. Do not trip over tow hitch.
This is excellent advice
Nah blindly walking into exhuast and leaving a visible black semi circle on the forehead 20 plus years later !!!
5. After you trip over the tow hitch anyway, finally put it in the car without dropping it on your foot.
5. Fuck! Where is stow pin?!
@@robc3056is it a happy face or a sad face ?
Being a former mechanic, I like this thing, I miss the days of having access to 4 and 2 post hoists, so much easier and faster to do all sorts of work to ones vehicle.
It does make things quicker.
Honesty - with all due respect - that's simply a 'junk' statement.
Dude, it IS commercial grade, and we have professional mechanics using it daily. They tend to LOVE it... go figure…
:P
Looks like crap...@@herohoistsaustralia4502
No probem-o dude - we do those too... :P
@@AutoExpertJClook at the comment below. Imagine attacking the wrong person for making a “junk” comment :/
Portable lift is a freaking game changer. I like being able to set up in my garage or when weather permits, my driveway. I finally got a portable lift after 15 damn years of wishing.
I wish I had a four post though, I never feel 100% safe under any 2 post lift regardless of manufacture….but the accessibility a 2 post gives you under the vehicle is unmatched.
My ONLY regret with getting a lift was not getting it sooner. Spend the extra $ to get the biggest you can get and get all the accessories…and do it NOW lol
Love the show John
🇺🇸
2 post is the best really... i get your point about the 4 post, but that shit has reduced access and requires a shitload of wasted space just to exist... If you have proper flooring and anchoring, a 2 post is more than safe enough... The only time i have seen trouble with a 2 post is when apprentices fucked up the setup and put the lifting pads under the wrong section... Now, i`m talking about screw actuated 2 post lift, i don`t like the hydraulic setups... Hydraulics are remarkable and i love them as a mechanism, but not as a secure lifting approach, hard-stops and locking ratchets notwithstanding... Also, the 4 post is the most expensive variant, which is only really worth it if you have to work on properly heavy vehicles...
Love your sense of humor while delivering spot on tech info. Good job.
I recently bought one of these hoists after watching your first video. Very handy and works well. I’m not getting any younger so certainly beats rolling around on the ground going forward.
Back in the day [1960's - 1970's] we had an ancient hydraulic hoist, with mains suppling the energy to pump the oil around]. It also had an oil reservoir under pressure, so you didn't need the pump running all the time. It was basically an H -shape with the 'bottle-jack" central pillar [12 inch diameter] in the center of the "H". The arms of the H, were also H in cross-section, and you could slide in gismos along the top of the "H" cross-sections to adjust in all directions to align with the hard-points in the vehicle. The safety bar was just a solid piece of steel, about the diameter of a car prop shaft, which would swing down and lock into a hole in the bottom of the pit.
It was absurdly simple and reliable, but it made some jobs hard, like some transmission removals. For grease-ups and oil changes, wheel bearing repairs/tire changing/brakes, replacing tie rod arms/steering, shocks etc, it was fast and perfect.
I remember staring at one of those in the Amoco service station in Spring Hill Brisbane next to the Byrne Ford dealership. About 1977. Ancient indeed
And, if you had enough space you could spin the car around on the hoist so you didn't have to back it out.
@@theairstig9164 It did the job though, and I am still alive, but that is just luck! A gormless teenage grease-monkey, what could possibly go wrong? :-)
Thanks to Nord for sponsoring this video, and thanks to John for including Tiffany in the segment.
Nifty hoist, John. Would be great for wheel and brake work, as you pointed out. 👍
One point if using it for your welding bench. Attach the earth to the steel plate, not to the hoist. You don't want to spot weld all the joints together (etc).
Very good point lol
Cutting Edge Engineering…….what a find! Kurtis and Karen kombine their skills and knowledge to produce my favourite show of the week, that’s Friday evening in Oz which is late night Thursday on the other side of the planet.
Mine too.
As a "lone wolf" kind of guy myself, I find it is almost enjoyable trying to work out how to do shit solo. I have erected two large sheds, pergola, two post hoist, picked up and installed an 1800kg lathe and numerous other projects solo. One of the go to bits of gear for a solo artist is a portable garage crane. I was looking at these single post hoists but it still takes up more room than I can spare. I am going with a full height scissor lift and bury them flush into the floor.
Wow, they started with the four post hoist and then went to a two post hoist and now they have a one post hoist. I’m stuck with a no post hoist, it’s called a jack😂😂😂
A no-post hoist? That's 1 for Penn and Teller to explain...
:P
Wait until space Karen invents on with rocket lifters.
Sounds like you need a crane
Hero Hoists owe you one for that exposure. I’d buy one if I was in Oz.
Where are you?
Kudos to u JC for giving Kurtis & Karen from Cutting Edge Engineering a plug. His channel is awesome for showing people what’s possible in an engineering shop. Agree on the waffle pod slabs possibly not adequate to support the hoist loading, particularly if some number cruncher has only specified an 85mm thick slab.
I do it my way which is crack the wheel nuts / lug nuts while on the ground and the jack in place . And the jack tight against the car and ground but not yet lifting the car . Once you have done the cracking part lift enough so that you can put the spare HALF WAY under the car so that if the jack fails it gives a safety gap of about 6 inches or so . Then bang away .
always put the spare under the car!
Interesting that you mentioned Kurtis from Cutting Edge Engineering. That guy does some amazing stuff and his wife Karen is so good on the video. One of my favourites.
I take issue with someone from Australia talking about corrosion 😀Every video I've seen of someone working on a car in Australia, the car undercarriage looks clean enough to eat off. May you never encounter the joy of working on a North American rust belt car.
My tip to remove a stuck wheel is put the wheel nuts back on but leave them loose, put the vehicle back on the ground then shake the shit out of it sideways and the weight of the vehicle will do the job. Another method, without a flat tyre is loosen the nuts as above and drive slowly swinging from left to right. You can often feel when the wheel breaks loose.
Donkey kick has never failed for me - but I do get what John was saying about if it's on the tin-can scissor jack and the car is halfway into the ditch on the side of the road, it could slip off if you belt it - so I'll definitely try to store those suggestions in case I'm ever in that situation.
" and the weight of the vehicle will *SOMETIMES* do the job"
Fixed that for you. My gf used to have a car (with steel wheels nonetheless) that always had stuck wheels, even with liberal application of anti-seeze. Nothing short of an 8-pound sledgehammer would dislodge those wheels.
I have a Hero Hoist motorcycle lift with the air option, the pump failed out of the box, but they gave me a new pump instantly, I had to drive back to the shop of course but that's life. New pump and it's built as cheap as reliably possible, no real complaints, made a few mods but all in all its a quality product for 1/5th the price of other motorcycle hoists. Also I put a new o-ring in the failed pump and now it works perfect, for another project one day.
Good video John
I lived in Canberra for eight years at one of the new suburbs up there. Called Franklin
They basically exclusively use waffle slabs
I’ve seen a regular car jack punch through the top layer of concrete into the foam underneath at a residential garage while someone was doing a DIY job on the front end ……..
Unless the single post hoist can be lowered off the four bearing type wheels whilst in use
and distribute the load throughout the whole frame onto the floor…….
I would stay away from it if you have a waffle slab
Unless you can get a massive sheet of steel checker plate and turn it upside down and do something like that
but it’s starting to get too difficult .
Pretty sure there were a few deaths here in Central Vic a few years back with slabs giving way.
Brought a half pot of coppercote back to NZ from my drilling job in Aus, back in the early 80's. Its still going strong. A million and one uses.
It is good stuff.
Because the first one of anything is always sort of a question. I had to watch this because I got my two post hoist delivered last week and will be having it installed next week. The first time I "helped dad with the car" I was about eight, he'd taken wheels off both sides and hadn't noticed right and left hand threads on the studs. We ended up pounding out half a dozen and replacing them. Those were good days for "auto parts stores". I was shocked a couple years later when pretty much all cars had right hand threads on all four wheels. I always ran the lug nuts on each set of studs with Anti seize. I buy a cross type lug wrench for each vehicle, been on the side of the road too many times changing a flat. That's a good looking lift, I'm really looking forward to my two poster being installed and getting to use it. Always an interesting show, John, Thanks!
Couple of things you really should bear in mind: your garage's concrete floor is unlikely to be rated for lifting your jacked F-150 with the bed full of junk on this puppy. Also, don't shake the baby, NOTHING is going to survive doing something dumb like using a hand wrench to torque or un-torque your lugs holding the thing in the air - even mechanics with HUGE fifteen ton truss-arch pawls do that on the floor.
This. This thing is a death trap
A jacked F150 full of gear exceeds the rated lifting capacity of 2,500kg.
No they don’t.
Given how badly people use forklifts. .. id almost say youd need a phd in being careful and a bachelor's in understanding load distribution to use this thing safely.
Im not saying its badly engineered. Im saying people fk up when these things are bolted to the ground and have 2 posts... If i was that company id make people sign wavers.
F150s weigh more than 2500kg.
Wow! I am so glad to come across someone else who uses anti-seize on wheel fastenings. I have done it for nearly fifty years and have never had an issue. The benefits have been experienced many times however.
Nah, they drag ALL the way off after you’ve cracked ‘em. means you can’t spin your spider properly.
Have had one of these, a different brand though for a few years. Ideal for small garage' s mine goes up to 2.0m. You need to ensure the floor is very level. I have made an adjustable prop which stabilize s the vehicle when swinging on stubborn bolts and nuts. Great tool for the home workshop if you have the height. My post is 2.5m high.
John you did the old school wind the nuts on 1st. But I am surprised you didn't use the 2nd part of that method. The nut is rotated anticlockwise on the bolt until the nut clicks to show the start or lead thread of the bolt which stops any chance of cross threading. I don't put that much copper grease on my threads. OK, my wheels and tyres come off every 6 weeks or so to put on my R spec rubber for the Mt Cotton hillclimb and the wheels will come off again after the meeting. Because I am removing wheels and tyres so often, I always observe the "find the start" of the thread. I can still hear the voice of the old blacksmith from a small country town in QLD telling me to do that.
I don't understand why this isn't more widely taught. It's invaluable when installing nuts by feel, as when you have to reach into a crevice.
@@hughbrackett343is that what she told you?
Sure - I do that if the fastener is hard to engage. Wheel nuts aren't. (The socket holds them square in the wheel bore + do it with finesse.)
i love how profesional he is ,,,, always safety first ... protecting his back and preventing possible accident
Care to elaborate? Are you suggesting a Tyre Lifter is needed?
Having a hoist in my garage is #1 on my lotto win bucket list after shimmying on my back under my Sportage to get the under tray off and then the simple job of draining and refilling the transmission. Then shimmying around again to put the tray back on, and then calling the chiropractor vs the hour long job with a hoist and no chiropractor call.
Yeah, I know which option I would pick.
Thanks for the video JC. I wish I could fit one of these in my shed looks like a good bit of gear
Absolutely fantastic and detailed content in this hoist video John, you've outdone yourself.
I have a two post lift and I am meticulous about knowing the CG of anything I lift so that I can center it. I'm somewhat leery of the single post. If you do much car work you really, really do NEED a hoist.
I do endorse your use of additional stands under the car with the single post.
I have a full inventory of murder machines. Bathtubs, bicycles, lawn mowers and chain saws always top the list. Anti seize on the lugs will alter the torque spec and I've had some discussions with tire shops about using anti seize and then using a Torque Stick on an air wrench. I learned long ago to take my torque wrench when going to an unknown tire shop just in case they don't have one. I have known them to both cross thread or snap studs by over torque. Or leave them loose and have the nut run off. Then when they offer to fix the problem I decline their kind offer and take it back to my shop. If they bugger it up I don't trust them to fix it. And I won't be back to that shop, ever.
So you watch cutting edge engineering as well. Great content, he knows what he’s doing.
Broke a 600mm breaker bar trying to remove lug nuts after getting new tyres on my wife's car. Bought another one, went back to the shop and asked them to loosen the lugs using the new bar. Got several new studs and one tyre refunded after they couldn't remove any without the rattle gun. Butchers.
Another mention of Kurtis at Cutting Edge Engineering this week John! Time you flew up to do a video with him. Maybe a workshop tour where you can drool over his big toys!?!?
Thank you for this episode, a refreshment of many practicalities related to even simple jobs. One watch out with raising a car on a hoist by less experienced DIY mechanic you might have mentioned would be: be careful not to hit the garage roof with an open hood (or bonnet). This thing, when opened, sticks out even higher than the roof of a car and is sometimes forgotten while raising a car.
That single post floor jack should fit where the standard jack goes no problem. Lol.
Remember most concrete garages only have a skim coat on them.
That issue must be looked at first by some kind of engineer-qualified tech person.
You only get one life.
@@luckyguy600 - Yep. It's a concern to see blasé comments from the know-it-all, never RTFM [read the f***ing manual] community saying that nothing can possibly go wrong, that safety concerns are for girls, and assuming that all shed, garage, workshop and back garden concrete slabs are built to the same high standard out of premium quality materials.
There'll be guys using this hoist with it supported by bricks, concrete blocks and wooden planks.
It's worth remembering that EVERY mechanic lying crushed beneath a vehicle considered himself to be an expert on handling heavy loads. I'm not criticising the manufacturers of the portable hoist, but I think it's asking a bit too much to expect Joe (or Bruce?) Public to use it responsibly.
You may reconsider how easily the average 'Joe' gets a car licence…?
There's NO screening for attitude or aptitude...
If I detect a casual, ignorant attitude to the product - it will NOT be sold to that person.
Could the same be said for car salespeople? Dwell on that - please…
@@EleanorPeterson
@21:36 Many of the entry-level click-type torque wrenches in the US are marked in pound-feet useful) and kilogram-meters (useless). Fortunately, converting those rare (for the US) newton-meter torque specs to pound-feet is pretty easy to do.
You might want to check the depth and quality of the concrete you're putting it on. Was the pad underneath compacted?
My truck wheels haven’t been off in 5-6 years. Should be a treat when they get swapped.
Had a situation on a major highway couldn't get the rim off the axle so just grabbed the can of spray seal goop and drove home to swap the tire then took the mess to the nearest tire store the next available opportunity. I now carry a can of that in each vehicle I own. Sure its going to be a mess in side the tire but in this situation. Normally would swap out the wheel out but first time had the experience.
Mate, I just watched that twice. First time on 1.5 speed and second on normal taking notes. Twenty eight minutes of pure gold. Ima Makita man but hold my self cheap, as my fat cave could not accommodate such a machine as the single post hoist. Commentary on thread grease/lube warrants its own special.
He's done them multiple times in late 2022
It's great to see someone that takes the time to not only read but reply to Subscribes comments Good on ya John, your a top bloke.
Hi John I do have real-world experience in galvanic corrosion .. I'm a shipwright.
..
I wouldn't use Aluminium and Copper anti seize in close proximity ...
Id use nickel tech
Nickel ant seize in this situation ....and I have been using it for years on boat trailers..cheers mate ..
Up here in Germany, we technically have summer and winter and both seasons have their own tires on separate rims. So the rims made out of down under reddish dirt (after a long process) are only having 6m to attach to the steel hubs and then have to wait for 6m in a storage area w/o their beloved iron friends.
BTW, by naming the screws as „M something“, you immediately disconnected he viewers of the richest country (no debates pls.) on earth. Metric is evil because metric is French and you might know Frenchman are the arch enemy (of us Germans) 😂
As I gaze upon my man-cave/garage, I see many things I want... nothing I actually need ;-) Nice report, John.
As it should be
I now have visions of people buying these and using on non level driveways and watching the hoist or hoist/car combination wondering off down the road.
Yea, the handbrake doesn't work very well in those cases...
Just too good, love your presentations. Cheers!
No EV video???? I'm so devastated..... I'm positive at least ONE goes up in smoke daily. Thanks for the entertainment John.
I have one the exact same, apart from the colour, would not be without it, I had 8 two post lifts and two four post lifts at work when I shut up shop but this mobile lift is just perfect for home use, I can even move my Mk2 Jaguar on it (not recommended)
We’re ‘colour-blind’ here at Hero Hoists.
Apart from that- all goooood…
😁
That what 10T? fly press in the back ground, is a dream toy of mine.
I saw it and had to have it. Isn't it gorgeous?
@@AutoExpertJC Yes she is and I covet thy neighbor's fly press.
I'm glad I'm not the only one who spotted it and considered stealing it, is it a Norton?
Thank you sir! Brilliant!
The brand new first year in use high school I started at had an automotive workshop complete with a drive on car hoist. It also had a standard roof height so the car could only be lifted about 1 metre off the ground. Even us tiny year sevens couldn't fit under that! :P :O
🌟I've had one of these since 2020 and it is very useful.
Important to have a flat, level surface.
Clutch on fore and aft engine transmission orientation is not possible, and anything but a tail section on an exhaust system the same.
I have mine at the front of my workshop. When I have a campervan in for work I just wheel the lift to the far end. Easy peasy🏴
Have you heard that three electric busses have now caught fire in London and the fleet has been taken offline?
2:40 Tiffanny, is that you?
The way it wobbles around when he was taking the wheel off makes me super nervous.
Leave your lug nuts threaded onto the studs a few turns and beat on the wheel to your hearts content. knowing that even if it falls off the jack, it'll just land on the wheel. But, if you fin't fit under the car when it isn't lifted on a jack, then do not get under it when it is lifted if you feel that the jack is not completely secure. Maybe through a single jackstand in your trunk along with a piece of plate steel or aluminum to fit under it in case you are driving on dirt roads.
Thanks! This is something I could use.
Great to see Fat Cave II on the channel, John.
Definitely a great presentation of the hoist.
I already have a 4 poster but the convenience of the mobile aspect is definitely worth considering
Hi Charles, if you like the idea of portability, and you want the smallest footprint model on the market (just 3.460m long x 2.635m wide) - our 9S is a no brainer.
Full lift height, 4000kgs capacity and will happily accommodate any average length wheelbase car, compact SUV etc…
www.herohoists.com.au/images/lk9s-qld2--1200.jpg
I love this channel and your videos John very informative.
Thank you very much.
19:39 Have been doing this for years on my cars, living in a state that puts down a 2 inches (5cm) of salt for every inch of snow, I have seen my fair share of stuck wheels and lug.
If you don't want to worry about your car falling to the ground while wailing at a stuck wheel with whatever you've got, simply back the nuts off two threads from snug to prevent the wheel from flying off the hub and mangling wheel studs, still snug enough to keep the wheel on if the jack fails or falls.
Great editing, and a very uplifting and useful episode, full of good tips too. Just about to go click clicking to find out how much they cost.
Many thanks
David in the UK
The bearing stress must be fairly high. 2T vehicle and hoist resting on a small area. 20kN/ say 4x100x100mm = 20,000/40,000 = 1/2 MPa bearing pressure. Fine on almost any concrete. Check with your engineer for waffle slabs. Not good for use on any dirt.
Yup - a standard garage slab in good condition is usually fine.
If owners let themselves be guided by the minimum slab spec for a 4.0T 2-Poster (even though this hoist isn’t bolted down) they’ll be fine.
The hoist shouldn’t be used on asphalt unless a sheet of steel is laid underneath it… likewise any uneven surface shouid be compensated for by placing countermeasures under the base… to level things up…
Common-sense MUST prevail when using this hoist - or ANY hoist…
By the way... we WILL offer a temporary ‘bolt down’ option very shortly - so all the fear-mongers can be silenced…
Stay tuned…
An overloaded situation is already prevented by dumping hydraulic fluid back into the system if anything over 25% of the rated capacity is detected.
We will probably enhance that system in future iterations of this hoist.
It’s good to know however that anything up to 3125kgs will NOT ‘break’ the post…
Thx, Rohan
Hero Hoists
(Australia)
🙂
just a word of caution, as someone else mentioned the floor can be an issue. a lot of modern housing they make ribraft floors, even in the garage, so there can be very little concrete under the jack, stand or hoist. a person over here died from the jack punching through the concrete while jacking up a car. i suggest finding out how the floor is made before even using a jack, let alone a hoist.
Back when I changed my own oil I would examine stuff under my truck to make sure everything was right. But laying on the ground to do this usually resulted in a nice nap.
Do you ever run some lubricant around every bolt , for future disassembly ease? Has been great for moving house and pulling apart dads full gym setup.. perth , Darwin, canberra , hobart, Wagga wagga , swan hill vic. And now , Melbourne.. ( he ran hospitals Australia wide... Retired now .
Couple of things: nice hoist; wow, really nice shop John!
Here in the Glorious People's Republic of Canuckistan, we head off the stuck alloy wheel problem by the fact that twice a year, we have to swap from all-season to winter tires, and back again. See how forward thinking we are? 😁 Even then we still get the odd wheel/hub combo that "love each other very much". In the worst cases, we will put the lug nuts back on, but not tight, then drive the car like a drunkard, weaving back and forth at low speed until we hear a satisfying pop sound. At that point, we creep back to the garage and finish the change over. Primitive but effective. Cheers!
certainly a good way to tweak the rim or crack it. Big big btw: instead of using winter tires, the newer type tire called 'all weather' is the real deal, particularly Michellin's version, imho, tho Nokian has one too, called WRsomething. Mich's is the Cross Climate 2. Smooth, rugged, grippy yet long wearing and actual winter /ice snow capability. They defy everything we thought we knew about the materials science of tires. If i lived in snow area i would absolutely buy them, and even rainy areas i will.
I is an electrician, so that will save me a box of beer and a slice of dead cow.
So AM I. Emphasis on the AM;)
@@martinlang9615 My daughter is an English teacher. I do it to get her attention.
What does Tiffany dream after she gets her Dior bag? A Chanel bag, it was a long time ago when she dreamed that she could pick up two pens instead of always one at a time
Warning - don't put a BEV on one of these !
John - would have been helpful if you had said a bit more about floor loading and how thick the concrete needs to be etc.
Yeah, and a price would have been interesting, too.
That's an interesting comment. Is it because the battery pack is centrally located? Or, how do you think the hoist could be modified to accept an EV?
Price is $5,589.00 incl GST + Delivery + Installation.
We do a little better for Auto Expert viewers who identify themselves at time of enquiry…
:)
I would like to know too. I do know 2 post hoists require the concrete floor to be 150mm depth. Most garage or shed floors are 100mm.
@@Jonno2020
As this is a portable/freestanding design - no slab specs are specified.
Minimum depth for a bolted down 2-Poster is 100mm.
And that’s for a capacity of 4.0T to 4.50T. Going on this, I’d suggest any standard 100mm slab in good condition would be fine. Keep in mind the SLOPE is more important than the slab thickness for this hoist.
There’s certainly easy ways to even up the base of the hoist once it’s lowered of course…
What is the hoist you used to put your new hoist together? The one that uses the chain fall?
Pro tips: if your rim is stuck on in such a situation. Put the lugs back on just finger tight, lower the car down and just gently drive it back and forth a couple feet. The weight of the car will help break the bond.
The only "problem" I see with using anti seize not the person it put it on its the next guy.
Not sure you average tyre shop guy is going to pay any attention, so say 100ftlb that should be only torqued to 70ftlb because of anti seize ends up being 144ftlb.
I guess one just has to hit them with the wench lol.
Exactly my concern also.
Could stretch the studs.
I’m not risking it.
omg proof read! lol
Seems Martin was able to decode what I meant though.
What's the sequence for those old Renaults with a three stud pattern?😅
Petrol-match-run
Thanks for reminding me about “Having seriously dangerous killing machines in my shed” love your accurate description of danger with these types of lifting gadgets. Regards
PS. If there isn’t a rule about this some “weirdly bored random” will soon make one up.
Nice lift and great advice too. In the US I use 🦶#'S or the other conversion measures = for torqueing fasteners.
Magic when I did my time as motor mechanic for a dealership we only had jacks and axle stands Was just standard practice then In the late 80s we got 1 just 1 it was fantastic Then dealership went broke not sure if they’re related 😅
Whoa, if I owned a job shop, I'd buy two of these right off the (in your case, Ausstralllian cricket) bat. If you're at that awkward 2 full-time, 2-part time in a 2 bay garage-- just what you make up for in lost idle labor time will pay for itself in a year. (Especially if you do brakes or drive train work in rusty tri-state or New England).
It looks great at the structural members and bolts. It's interesting to see they're using roller chains unlike the standard wire rope. One concern I've got is I'm 95% certain those buttons are the standard eBay actuators you get. Those won't do well with dust or oil ingress overtime, but then again I'm sure they've done their homework. If it was shit, they'd be dealing with warranty claims, so it's probably good enough.
But generally Chinese shit will be good for say, 30k switch actuations, compared to the same Japanese component which will be good for 150k. That pendant didn't look like it had an e-stop either. While I don't think it's necessary to have (especially with an "interlock" system) to be compliant with IEC/ISO/VDI/whatever, I don't think I've ever used or spec'd anything without one. I'd 100% trust a fully-tested name-brand post pendant from the 1970s off eBay for $300 over this. I know you're not supposed to even be actuating the cylinder unless everything and everyone is 'safe' but ...yeah. I'm reckless but the two things that scare me (other than neurodegenerative diseases) are lifts/hoists/cranes (basically anything to do with logging) and air compressors (oh you're giving away that 80 gal Ingersoll-Rand scroll compressor??!! for free?!?!oh, when you pulled the drain there was some murky red... yeah no thanks)
(Pro-tip: on the jacket of cabling, you'll see embossed markings for the characteristics and what certifying bodies to which the unit complies. In general, in 'merikka you should see at minimum "UL". Anything made in the last 30 years should have "VDE" meaning...something Deuscheland Electrical....something. CSA is Canada. If you see all 3, and the product is legitimately certified (some vendors :cough: will copy jacket extrusion markings, but won't copy the actual engineered prescriptions) you can be fairly sure it's safe to use in the proper context. The most common domestic markings are: S(evere service)
J(unior) - rated 300v, if absent, 600v
O (il resistant, only on the outer jacket)
O (if a second "O" is on the label, that means there is also oil resistance for the insulation rating)
W (W or very rarely W/W - weather/water resistance= UV,water,O3,general weathering erosion.)
If've left double-run cables for shit like running Christmas lights in my garden, in the middle of brutal Boston winters and then left the cable out the whole season only to use it again. I just capped Vin and forgot about it for 10 months. No breaker pop, worked just fine. There's a whole 'nother rating system, generally found on industrial gear, taking the form "IP##" which you can look up at your own leisure.)
Finally, on the hydraulics end - I tried to check their site and they didn't say how/if they rated their hoses. I might be dumb. They should all be minimum 1.5x proofload (2.5x is what I spec all my shit for) and designed for the appropriate dynamic impulse. Also, I feel ehhhh about not having a secondary cylinder like a standard two-post. I know there's a secondary, but lock, but even then, if it's built like I think (pawls every 6 inches or whatever, that pivots in to clear the post on a spring-pin via that electromag to allow for descent; otherwise it spring-returns to its default behavior, acting as a catch on the post). There's just something about being able to put a safety pin in myself (like, on a bench press) that gives me (probably a false) sense of safety. If only because after a few hundred times, muscle memory will develop and act like my own Magnaflux
Overall this is awesome for the wrencher. This would have been a dream when I was 22 and renting a house with 3 of my car nerd buddies.
Ive worked on cars in my girlfriends single car garage and its horrible trying to get the car on jackstands because there's not much room. This would be awesome and although its more than a 2 post launch lift + installation... I still want one...
Looks great if you need that sort of thing. I just lift my truck with one hand and change out the exhaust with the other. No sweat.
Amazing. I'm sure there's something else you excel at with 1 hand...
😉
I'd always add the stands under it like you did... I know the steel is flexible, but your car was moving so much I could hear the paint on the hoist cracking.
Great, I just need to raise the garage roof now... Very good advice John.
good to see lft king still operating, they sponsored my website some time ago. from a professionals view point, i would find this hoist a little in the way the way the arms reach under and accross the floor pan. be good a service hoist and for diy'ers much like the belly hoists and 4 post hoists. i prefer 2 post hoists as the cause as little interference as possible.
The only comment I have regarding the anti-seize is that I would be a bit more careful applying it to the hub flange. Personally I use Wheel Hub Paste from Liqui Moly on the flange as well; but, I make sure to not get any on the mating surface. As for the hoist, I love the idea; alas, I don't have more headroom in the garage to lift a car.
I never seen 14mm hex cup head bolts rated as low as 8.8 , only ever come across 12.9 .
Sir, I forget how to do a power cord back up properly so it comes back out untangled. Over/under? Something about flipping the cord ... or is it chord, wait that is music. I bet a lot of viewer could possibly get something out of gathering up a long line properly; be it for power, tow ropes, holiday lights, etc. Of course I could just go look it up and probably will, but always enjoy hearing it from you; the older brother we need but don't deserve.
The gear you can get these days for an affordable price is amazing. I have a torque wrench I bought 40 years ago that has kg-m. Never used that scale tho! The wrench is fine thanks, calibrated it at work, bang on. And what's with the Mericans using pound feet? Technically correct, but I was born with foot lbs in my head. Oh, and congrats on knowing how to roll up an extension cord. Cheers john
Love to have the head room (2.4m). That said, sent this to my non-car guy stepson for great info on just what to do with wheels.
Wow John, not ripping the ass out of the EV industry today. 🤣 good job. Always worries me these hoists, safety wise, love the addition of the extra stands for walking under, Similar concept to shoving the wheel under the car during brake work Thanks for the sales pitch. Didn't want to frighten us with the cost?
About 6 grand depending on accessories and delivery costs.
$5,589.00 incl GST + Delivery + Installation.
Of course, you can pick-up and/or DIY.
Sorry - the website prices are very 'old'... :P
Will be updating them shorty…
* Mention JC's video review for a slightly nicer price…
Thx, Rohan
😊
@herohoistsaustralia4502 it's an awesome bit of kit. I'd most definitely buy one when I can afford it.
@herohoistsaustralia4502 thanks will put on my Christmas list
An expert would not bang the wheel’s paint with an impact gun.
I always start and finish the lug nuts by hand (do use a small impact gun in between to save time).
this is revolutionary idea, thanks mr john... if you could share total cost shipped straight to the philippine island.... noi worries,,,
I’m looking for an agent in the Philippines… interested?
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Been to Boracay a few times - just 💗 it there…
😁
Another good one, thankyou Mr. MALS Fella.
And Hero Hoists work well (I've 1 of their 4 poster lifts) ta Rohan
Thanks very much, Peter. I was really impressed with the way this one was manufactured.
Ta John,
Agreed, the quality of their lifts are top notch. Fairly easy assembly. I employed a mate, oh yeah, and an engine lift to make assembly easy.
Now I've watched to the end, thankyou for saying start wheel nuts with a "finger start" before grabbing a rattle gun, and, then torquing a 2nd time, so much to say about your good information.
This happened to me. Tradies lost wood screw that they charge you $10 each for in tyre. Tried to take wheel off to take up the repair shop. Wheel stuck on with lug nuts removed.
Never had a problem changing a wheel on my cars as my tyres seem to have pre-installed magnets that collect point metal every couple of months!
Fuck me. I just learnt how to roll up an extension cord. Properly, and with gusto. Thanks man.
Is the stability front to back of the jack good John even with a heavy front ended car? Also how much is the cost?
It's OK - not as solid as a hard-mounted 2-poster, obviously, but it's not unstable it just flexes a bit. (Mainly torsion in the column.)
@@AutoExpertJC Thanks John
John, not all cars use sill panels to lift. You do that on some cars and the door will never open again. What you should have said is consult your owners manual for the location of the lifting points.
Everyone is a frustrated executive producer. (I actually said 'generally', which is true.)
@@AutoExpertJC try it on a ranger . Your missus will be showing episodes of dukes of hazard explaining how they have to get in and out the car now . Then you will be explaining to the kids why the missus doesn’t wear underwear. I don’t know which one is going to be harder to explain, the one where you should touch cars and you did or the one where the missus likes the feeling of wind blowing through her hair.
Makes me chuckle here are all us hard working people, listening to this stuff from a guy who REALLY does not have anything better to do…