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I had the DPF light come up on my 2011 Peugeot 4007 earlier this year. Peugeot dealer couldn’t find the problem. Local independent mechanic couldn’t find the problem. I tried to clean the DPF twice as my scanner indicated it was 120% full. Problem not solved. Diesel specialist had a look and diagnosed the thermostat had failed and was jammed fully open. This meant the temperature never reached the threshold of 65c to initiate a burn. Replaced the thermostat, problem solved.
@@happytuber3669 good to hear. My 4007 has done 260,000 kms with 10,000 km intervals between oil/filter changes. Nothing wrong with the engine or DPF. The thermostat failure caused the problem. I even did a 1500 km run to Melbourne and back but a regeneration did not occur due to the failed thermostat. Engine temperature never reached the 65C threshold for the ECU to initiate a regeneration.
7.3 will do 1 million miles, if looked after... i have the 4.2tdi, cos i dont like tech.. no computer, no glow plugs, all mechanical.. 700nm.. 14 lt 100..[ bigger turbo ]. std is a mitsubishi td04. i bought a bearing td06 ish.. still small. but no lag..
@@harrywalker968 Even when it fails, you can get a reman 7.3 and off you go again. Today the first long block I found was $6,600 and full engine for $11,600. A rebuilt manual transmission and clutch, while you are there, for another $3k or so. So $15k and you are good for another million miles.
@@andrewlace I've seen these pistons mentioned quite a few times at Dave's Auto YT channel. Apparently these pistons must be amazing with regards to combustion efficiency, although I am a little sceptical. Love the thinking behind them though and the fact that there is still innovation happening at the diesel front. 😍
@@Zgurkogel most innovation is for power, the only engine I think efficiency was a thought is the ford 2.7 in the trucks, I would like to put that 2.7 in a jeep rubicon ford should have made it a hybrid option also so you stop and go on battery and engine starts up after 10 mph they could prolly get that truck to 30 mpg on city personally I would want to see a 2.7 hybrid in a service van , not them chitty euro junk vans they import 2003 real metal van
there's an irish youtuber dude working in england who is basically a mobile dpf cleaner. quite a few of his jobs are on cars that have been to a mechanic multiple times for a dpf issue. he's a wiz on the odb scanner and finds the root cause often by looking at graphs in realtime, fixes it, then cleans the dpf without removing it. there's a common fault with something I think they call the 5th glow plug. it's on the exhaust and it's always frozen and a pain to remove. and cheers for the non ev video.
@@16sputnik7 I think the guy he's talking about is "O'Rileys Autos". One of the few good mechanics left that can actually diagnose and not just read a code reader.
This is correct. I have 15 x bt50 we maintain with the 2.2 duratorq(same as ranger). Their is a fuel vaporiser and glow plug on the exhaust. It gets blocked and the burn offs cannot happen. Ford will charge ya like 400 bucks for the vaporiser. It just needs to be poked out clean with a pick. 50 bucks worth of tools(you need the correct tool to get it out as spanners will just strip it) and 15 minutes and its all fixed. Every damn time.
Someone else mentioned "O'Rileys Autos" UA-cam channel. DPF education to expert level. Any mechanic should binge-watch and make a fortune fixing DPF problems.
My 2019 Ford Ranger began to blow smoke and smelt like an oil refinery. Took it in to Ford for a service and explained the problem. Upon collecting the vehicle they said I was up for new injectors for a hefty sum of $3,500.00 but was covered by the warranty which had 12 weeks left on it. They told me that when they plugged the car in to their laptop it showed that the car had tried to regenerate and burn the particles off over 400 times and asked me do I only drive short distances to which I replied yes, the last 18 months since i retired. Long story short diesels need to be driven at speed but especially under load for quite some time to give the DPF a chance to burn the particles off. That is how they explained it to a retired builder who knows zero about cars. That particular vehicle is the 2L diesel Biturbo model. Thanks for the video John, looks like I'm in the market for a petrol vehicle.
If I remember correctly you need to drive it for 20 minutes non stop at over 50mph for the average car to do and dpf regeneration cycle..Which can be tricky for some people.
Especially when they developed a 2 pot glue to hold them together in tropical conditions. The casein based glue worked OK in cold European conditions but they fell apart here with the expected result. We made them here at Bankstown too.
Greetings from the UK. Cheers for another great video with lots of rational and well-argued content but, from personal experience, twice now the dpf light has been a symptom of a faulty sensor rather than a failed dpf. The most recent one's been in for about 20k miles now with no further issues, so I'm pretty confident that the sensor has been the root cause both times. The vehicle's done just 80k miles but at least it's a much cheaper and easier home-fix than replacing the filter. Incidentally, I'm ashamed to admit the car in question is a 3-point E-class, but, to its credit, it's been utterly reliable in that mileage aside from this issue, a broken spring and a noisy wheel bearing, all of which I was able to repair myself, 'so there's that', to coin a phrase!
Read al the comments...failed fan on all the time cooled the engine too much so the DPF never got triggered. Thermostat suck open...same thing. Extra fuel atomiser and igniter to start the regen gets clogged. Spend $50 on the right spanners and remove and clean...or spend $400....
Shop managers love parts cannons they will just say well the part was old but just because something is old doesn't mean it is not functioning my grandfather lived until 103 he could still walk
John, agree completely with your "advise"...... We have a fleet of the new Ford rangers at work "WA Mining Industry" some most with less than 5K clocked up and DPF warning lights coming on at what looks like "very early" Most likely from restricted low speed on site with no chance of highway speeds to burn off the DPF... interesting times to come ... NOT!
Low speeds, remaining on site (no high speed freeways), doing low kms (start, short drive, stop), and for short duration runs (minutes not hours). This chockes the living shit out of the DPF as the vehicle needs high speed freeway driving on regular basis to clear the choking build-up that kills these DPFs, remaining on site at low controlled site speed limits prevents these engines getting up to temperature needed to trigger the burn off, idle and low speed driving doesn't reach the required temperature.
DPF's are maintained by strategies in the engine controller that keep track of the soot mass in the DPF. When soot mass exceeds a calibrated value, the controller will look for the right driving conditions, such as cruising on the highway, then begin adding fuel via a dedicated injector somewhere ahead of the DPF, but behind the diesel oxidation catalyst. This raises the exhaust temperature to where the soot in the DPF gets cooked into ash, which will pass through the pores in the ceramic substrate. 2 very common issues that prevent the onboard DPF cleaning strategy from working are 1) never driving the vehicle in a way that will allow the regeneration process to begin, ( the vehicle will warn you about this) and the fuel injector in the exhaust pipe getting restricted to the point where the temperature inside the DPF never gets high enough to cook the soot into ash. Anyway, at some level of soot mass, the vehicle will warn you that speed will be limited in so many miles, and if that is ignored, a further reduction in power and speed will be next, and eventually you may be limited to 15 MPH or so. Of course you could wind up with a completely plugged DPF, with the engine unable to run. At that point the DPF would have to be removed and cleaned by a facility that can perform this service, or replaced.
That fragment about reading codes reminded me how the dealer replaced (under warranty) a coil or spiral on the steering column in my car. This was related to steering wheel position or something similar. I had a wheel alignment done, poorly, and the steering wheel was slightly rotated while driving straight. That caused intermittent errors and disabling of EBD, ESP, trailer sway control, and so on. I looked it up on mighty Google, and wheel alignment was often the cause. I did this, problem went away. The dealer, however, diagnosed the vehicle during service, and proceeded to spend $2,500 on parts plus labour to fix the issue that no longer existed. Because the diagnostic tool "told them to".
As well as every bit of advice given here it's important to drive a modern diesel on a half-hour minimum non-stop run (motorway if poss) every few weeks - preferably with twenty minutes of that journey in a lower gear that maintains the engine at 2000 to 2500 RPM - so that the DPF is fully regenerated by the car itself. This is especially important for vehicles that only do shortish runs each day as the engine and all the stuff attached like DPFs, EGRs etc don't get hot enough to burn the fuel efficiently and the result is more than normal soot building up. Make sure the diesel tank is over half full on the 'burn runs' as it is one of several criteria that the vehicle's computer needs to see before it does an 'active regeneration' (burn off) of the soot gathered within the DPF.
Great advice 👍. I run a can of Liqui Moly DPF cleaner through my tank every 6 months and that seems to keep things running smoothly. You also need to get these things out on a highway run every now and then at higher revs in order to get everything hot enough to burn. I run mine at 95km/h in sport mode for 30 minutes and it seems to get the job done. It’s a Golf GT TDI with 230,000 k’s on the clock. I know you love them 😁
Maybe …. Just maybe I have a 12 year old diesel 4x4 in my driveway…. And I have absolutely no intention of updating… All the nanny state BS on new vehicles absolutely repulses me… I actually like driving and don’t appreciate all the crap that takes control off me I can reverse park and all by myself!!! Just sayin
@@batmanlives6456 Please keep it in your driveway, don't drive it on the road. I don't own a car and ride motorcycles. You can't wind your window up to keep out the smoke and fumes from old diesel engines that are around you.
Nailed it in one JC. Please allow me to add my tale of woe to this thread. We had a 2010 Subaru Forester Diesel for a time. Went well for years as I was aware of the DPF's special needs. They sure work a treat when they're working. But we were interstate cruising along a freeway at 110kph when the DPF light came on. WTF? Surely these were ideal conditions for a DPF?! I knew if I turned the engine off it'd go into some sort of limp home mode, so I did a quick underbonnet inspection and kept driving. Got home no probs. The next start-up we had the Xmas tree dash. Never seen so many lights on a dash! I'm a DIY kinda guy so a long period of investigation/frustration ensued. New DPF was $6500 at the time. No aftermarket units available. And no bugger knew anything about them. Eventually I found exactly what you mentioned - a cracked intercooler pipe. For any other unfortunate EE20 owners out there - it's the big bugger under the intercooler. Easy to replace and you can just use a 3" silicone bend from Autobarns. Unfortunately before I found that I'd cracked the shits, removed the DPF and gutted it like a rabbit. And had it remapped sans DPF + performance tune. Which made it go like the clappers. But also made an embarrassing cloud of diesel smoke upon any acceleration. Nasty. Then the car got written off. Good riddance. First and last diesel I'll ever own. I've been DPF burned. ;)
This is what is recommended in the Nissan Navara Owner's Manual. Drive at 80km/h or faster for 20 minutes to clean the DPF. Short trips, long idling and very slow speeds will tend to clog the DPF and trigger the warning light. The dude may be able to write in full sentences and use paragraphs but apparently can't read an Owner's Manual. And the mechanic took the opportunity to make some easy money.
@@zoltantoth7286 yup, this was a D40 Navara too. I’ve also told my friend to change the oil more often if he’s gonna be doing lots of short trips and not getting the engine really hot.
@@uzaiyaro If he's going to do short trips, tell him to do it on a bicycle like I do. Saves wear and tear on the engine, saves fuel and is quicker. By the time you get in and start the engine, you're half way there on the bike. I tell people I get diesel for half price because half the km I do is on the bike.
We here in Austria have bad experiences with aftermarket DPFs. Original is the way to go. Injector cleaning and testing is mandatory but only done by a very small percentage of workshops.
My favorite diesel dpf fix that I had to perform about 10 years ago when I still turned wrenches. ISX 15l Cummins, had many dpf and other faults. Started inspecting the intake air system and also the exhaust system. Failures found were: turbo leaking oil into the exhaust, and filled the dpf with oil.; found coolant in the intake, led to the egg cooler leaking diagnosis, which had also ruined the egr flow sensor. Bottom line, turbo, DPF and DOC (diesel oxidation catalyst, the first step in a dpf assembly, then the dpf itself), EGR cooler, the sensors for both devices. Thankfully Cummins actually stood by their warranty as the DPF issues were caused by a turbo failure, read as, "progressive failure". One thing that is shocking on EQR equipped diesels is, it's amazing the amount of soot that you find in the intake manifold. At least Caterpillar used something called Clean Gas Induction as opposed to EGR in the on- road truck engines.
Wish I knew what I came to learn through my own DPF saga. 2015 MQ triton, DPF light, sluggish etc etc. Replaced the DPF, then found out that the turbo hose was bad later on. Not super annoyed as the car had 150k on the clock at the time and thought, new DPF at this time isn't unreasonable. Had some other stuff done at the same time. Some thousands later and she hasn't missed a beat and shes over the 200k point now and couldn't be happier with my triton.
Read all the comments for extra clues re possible failure inducing conditions... failed fan on all the time cooled the engine too much so the DPF never got triggered. Thermostat suck open...same thing. Extra fuel atomiser and igniter to start the regen gets clogged. Spend $50 on the right spanners and remove and clean...or spend $400.
A friend of mine removed the DPF on his Mercedes Sprinter and it had after that 20% lower fuels consumption, I have heard many other report similar results...
It's not just a matter of removing a DPF, you need to either fool the ECU into thinking it's still there, or change the code enough to allow the ECU to operate without a DPF, (and it's associated sensors, pressure, temperature etc) Then when you have a different issue, take it in for a service and the mechanic puts a reader on it... do they know of the DPF missing and how it was done? I guarantee unless done properly, they'll end up with problems down the track, esp with a Mercedes vehicle. A friend of mine did similar with a Sprinter van, and it was the start of a nightmare that is still continuing. 20% fuel savings? Tell 'em their dreaming
Great video. Very good advice. I'm in the driver training industry. Quite often clients use their own car and the engine management light is on. For the driving test the car presenting is not permitted to have any warning lights showing. So they take the car to the local mechanic who clears the code and light goes out. But they never fix the root cause and on comes the light again. Quite often during the test. Test gets abandoned and money lost. I always tell them don't just get the light put out the light is warning you something is wrong causing that.
Brilliant video John, summing up the dire situation in the motor trade of their technical inabilities and the highway robbery they are doing. There is a good lad in the UK championing the knowledge of DPF's and after-treatments to all. Jimmy of O'Rileys Autos (on You-tube)opens bare how main dealers and indy garages are throwing parts at the issue. and of cause lightening the pockets of the customers.
Replace with straight pipe put through the middle of the old dpf and weded up to look oem😉. Put a sticker over the warning light. Keep driving, enjoying the better fuel economy from removing that but plug from the exhaust. As for injectors. In most cases having them sonic cleaned brings their spray pattern right back. Or get a set of good second hand units cleaned and tested to swap straight in. Lastly, egr + crank case gases = sludge in the intake. Real problem on diesel abd di-petrol. Well worth getting it blasted off with walnut shells.
If you remove/bypass the DPF without telling the ECU it’s not there, you will have more issues. It will keep trying to do DPF burns but the DPF isn’t there, so you’ll find the exhaust gas temp will go through the roof and I’ve seen cars that have melted the rear bumper due to this.
I drive Kubota tractors and they have a burn that comes on quite regularly, not silently like a car does. When it’s burning you know about it. These motors are extremely reliable, beyond belief. I’ve done many hours.
John, When I done my training, I believed the fuel system for diesels, went something like this:- air sucked through air filter and pass through MAF sensor, then compressed via turbo, then through intercooler, then into cylinders, MAF sensor measured air flow, ECU calculated fuel with references to pedal position, load, Temp, RPM and air mass, adjusting mixture level via closed loop with EG sensor, oxygen sensor. Timing achieved via cam sensor/crank sensor. Also sensor in tailpipe if DPF is fitted. Injector contamination/dirt, also turbo bearings wear allowing excessive oil leakage and drop in performance, as well as any leakages, also the MAF sensor hot wire dirty from oil contamination too, all could contribute to this issue. One thing you may have forgotten to point out, just one transistor/component failure in the ECU or a faulty sensor can and will upset the operation of this device and over fueling etc will result. The electronics is hard to diagnose, but that what the OBD2 plug and diagnostic tools are for, although a proper understanding of the codes is necessary. Injectors can be refurbished/cleaned. In the case study you presented I believe a lack of communication between the shop and the customer was the root cause of over charge. Secondly the customer is not there to fund the education or learning curve of the mechanic, thats should be provided from regular updates and attending relevant trade school training provided by the Main importer dealer of that particular brand.
Massive shout out to Border Diesel in Tweed Heads. Craig, Emma and the team are right onto modern and ancient diesels and anything in between. If you're anywhere from Ballina to Brisbane or somewhere west, give them a call. It could save you thousands.
You can easily tell when diesel vehicles have had their DPF removed or tampered with from the soot build-up on the back of the vehicle near the exhaust top. Another point with older diesel vehicles is the use of the correct engine oil. Older vehicles will consume more engine oil and if it's not low SAPS oil, the ash generated from oil consumption accumulates in the DPF and won't/can't be burned off during regeneration.
Just a heads up, if you have a Mitsubishi Pajero Sport in Australia and your dpf light comes on get your mechanic to check the turbo hose. Local mechanic did a cleaning burn, light came back on next day, he removed the dpf sent it away to be cleaned, refitted it, next day the light came back on. To be fair he did all that for a reasonable cost, but gave up on it. Took the car to a dealer and straight up diagnosed and replaced split turbo hose. Apparently a common fault. Of course they charged a premium for the job but at least it was fixed...... Specific product knowledge helped in this case I guess.
Thanks for advocating for us mechanics. We do have an ever increasing degree of difficulty in diagnosing modern vehicles. I have worked at various dealerships over the last 15 years, and am seeing a definite decrease in the amount of diagnostic information supplied to us technicians from the manufacturers. They release a new technology and then proceed to not teach us how it works. How does that help with timely repair for the customer?
The last vehicle I drove whilst working for a company was a ford transit van. In less than a year the dog light started to come on. It went to the dealers for a forced re gen of the dpf. It had become such a problem it was being taken back to the dealers every two weeks. The dealers were charging the company I worked for to do the re gen as it was not covered by the warranty. I retired before the van was 2 years old. All the vans the company owned suffered from the same problems. The problem was blamed on the limited journeys we did most journeys were on average 3 miles then the engine would stand and cool for about half an hour then on to the next short journey. The company should have gone with a petrol fleet but they insisted on diesel. One fun fact the company suggested their employees to the vehicle on a long trip on a motorway at the weekends to put the vehicles into re gen mode but were not prepared to pay for the time taken out of our weekends so we spent half a day every two weeks sat at the dealers.
I have a 2019 3 litre Amarok. The DPF light has come on twice so far and was covered under warranty. Both times it was just a sensor and was fixed for free. The first time they did a regen so I could use the car for a few days till I could book it in .The thing I have learnt about this is to carry a scan tool specific for VW products that can do a forced regeneration as some times that can fix the problem and to be able to locate a problem sensor but if a problem happens near dingo piss creek I can do a forced regeneration and drive to a large town or even home. When the light comes on it derates a lot and would be difficult to tow a van with out a regeneration
Brought a diesel Outlander that had lived in town (38000K's) never went far enough to do a PBF burn. It was about to die it turns out. Due to DPF clogging up. On the way home 100+ Ks at 100KPH the improvement was noticeable. Over the next few months a few trips up and down a mountain or 2 a few times & changed the oil at 43 & 47, 000. Now it goes very well & gets 6.4LP100K normal (60K) trips & 5.8 on a longer run.
FMD I had a diesel Astra that had these symptoms. I took it to Holden about 5 times with the same problem & replaced nearly everything. Cost me a fortune.. Holden couldn't fix it. I ended up scraping it. Made my blood run cold watching this.
Your comment to the effect of back then cars were simpler and easy to work on. Back in the 70’s, I had a timing light, set of feeler gauges, oil filter wrench, small set of spanners, and that was about what I needed to service my car (clean set plugs, clean & set distributor points, set engine timing, change oil). Work done, up to the local for a few coldies 😅. Now, you need a computer to talk to the on board computer, you need the proprietary software that the manufacturer won’t part with to interrogate the onboard computer so you can see the fault codes (see farmers in USA taking John Deere to court for restrictive trade on that one). I worked in ITSM for 40+ years, I saw computer systems get much more complex, more stuff more chance of failure harder to diagnose same with modern cars.
Same here. Only I don't own an oil filter wrench. I fit all my filters with a hose clamp with a bit of inner tube rubber and it gives me the necessary grip. The only thing hackable would be the digital clock.
As a commercial driver who had to spend many hours swearing at delays while two Isuzu trucks did their “Green burns” right as I got to a pick up or delivery location, or needed to do an “Orange burn” miles away from a freeway exit in heavy traffic, or on a rural highway at night where it was unsafe to pull over, I can tall you some prime reasons for DPF failures/frequent “Burns” (Regens.) 1. Idling the vehicle extensively during an auto (Green) regen. Hit the highway, as it burns hotter at higher pressure. 2. Turning the vehicle off during a regen. (Or exceeding the five minute buffer before parking and running the Orange regen.) Doing this on a Green can cause glazing of the particles in the filter. Doing it on an Orange can immobilise the vehicle or at least put it into a limp mode that can only be reset by an authorised mechanic, and result in a three hour manual burn if you are lucky. 3. EGR valve issues. Isuzu, looking at you. Fix those damn tissue paper strong EGR valve walls. Two trucks, two similar failures. Constant Green burns, with Orange burns every 150-200km on highway travel, along with highly pressurised coolant in one case. 4. Fuel quality. These two trucks stopped having DPF issues after being sold, as the new owners used fuel from service stations, instead of the “Train diesel” our company used. It was fine on the 80’s-00’s trucks, but all the newer ones that had DPF or AdBlue frequently had power and emission problems, along with higher than expected injector failures. When we started using service station fuel, the majority of problems stopped. Cheap fuel means expensive repairs.
I too own an Isuzu and just had a series of problems with mine. I have learnt a lot about Isuzu DPF's over the last 6 months. Isuzu's have a very awkward DPF system. I had my DPF cleaned professionally and it is much better but not perfect. Its back to an auto regen every 300 kms.
I've had a 2008 model Citroen C4 with a DPF for 16 years, I used to do a 20+ minute highway run 1-3 times a week so never had any issues with the DPF (it always cleared itself every week), recently as I now work from home I don't drive as much and so for the first time in 16 years the DPF light came on (well actually a message on the dash about the de-pollution system in Frenchlish) , and I realised the car hadn't had a run on the highway for a few months, so I took my wife down to Ikea for some meatballs, she was happy and as it's about 20 mins away down the M1 and 20 min back my DPF is happy and cleared out. Long story short if you own a diesel they really love it when you go for a decent run on the highway, just like it's cruel to keep a pet dog coup'd up at home all week with no walks, It's cruel to a diesel to make it run around town and not have a chance to stretch it's legs on the highway, treat your diesel vehicle like your pet dog and give it regular outings.
Useful video John. Thanks. Ihave very little experience with diesel vehicles, but i now know what was going on with the modern work truck i was driving from 2021 to early 2023, when the dpf light came on and we had to put the vehicle in a certain high idle mode and let it do it's thing for 30 minutes or so. It was clearing a clogged filter by burning off particulates at furnace temperatures. The diesel fitters didn't explain what was exactly happening when the truck was doing this. They were good mechanics who had really tough, shitty jobs, and they weren't the best communicators. But they weren't paid to be good communicators. Ive since then heard about their work conditions. The company fckd them properly. Paid them almost like slaves. These were the guys who would lay in the mud ona rainy day, draining 20 litres of hydraulic oil from a filthy old excavator, drag it out, and dispose of it properly. They would replace parts that weigh hundreds of kilos using a small crane on the back of a truck. This is always dangerous to one's health. These guys and girls never shied away from the hard work. Not even the young female apprentice.
With the pressure transducer check the hoses, any leaks and the check engine light will leave you stranded. Fixed mine with a bit of hose pipe as a temporary fix before flogging it and getting a petrol car!
For those of you with a MC [ Aus ] or Mark 4 Mondeo [ UK ], if the DPF light comes on it's more than likely the fuel vaporiser is blocked. See Alan Howatt's UA-cam videos, he used to repair Mondeo Mark 4/ MC diesels being used as taxis in the UK and after replacing the vaporiser and after doing a regen the DPF was fine. He did cover the Mark 5 as well.
I have an August, 2007 BMW 3.0d with the M57 tu2 6 cyl diesel. It has only 153,000km on the clock. The car is now off the road and I am performing some in depth maintenance myself. I only have a basic mechanical knowledge and have recently gained much more by watching UA-cam videos. My engine seemed to run well with plenty of power. I have owned the car for over 7.5 years. I decided to tackle the engine. I am pretty fussy with my engine and carry out most of the maintenance myself. I know BMW's are notorious for oil leaks however my engine had none. I removed the throttle body and found the EGR valve attached to the rear of the throttle body had about 1cm of carbon/tar like substance around the edge. When I examined the plastic intake manifold, I found it to be in a similar condition. I removed it completely from the engine and removed all the metal fittings from it and placed it in a caustic soda bath for about two days. It cleaned it like new. The only issue I had was to flush out all the caustic soda with a good number of garden hose treatments. The next issue I had was to clean the aluminium head intakes and valves. For this I purchased a video endoscope and several wire brushes for my 1/4 inch cordless impact driver. I managed to snap a couple of the heads off the brushes inside the intakes which I retrieved with a magnet. I then decided to use the brushes with my cordless drill which operated a much slower speed and did not snap off the brush heads. I also saw a UA-cam video where a guy used several (about 8) cut off cable ties to clean the valves. Also make sure the pistons are at top dead centre before working here on each cylinder. The idea is to clean as much of the carbon/tar out as much as possible. I also have had a small sandblasting gun for several years which I modified with a tip extension and made up two adapters for my wet/dry vac and purchased a bag of walnut blasting media on eBay. The idea is to blast the inside of the head and valves with walnut media and immediately suck it back out with the vac. I took extreme care not to allow the walnut media to enter the engine. Fortunately I also have an 8cu ft air compressor which was essential for this job. I haven't completed this process yet, however the work I have done to my head and valves look like new. Fortunately you can recycle the used walnut media from the vac and reuse it in the blasting process. I was quite astounded at the degree of carbon buildup in my intake, head and throttle body after only 153,000km and in order to mitigate much of the carbon/tar buildup in the future have fitted a Provent 200 oil catch can to my engine. I believe that much of the carbon/tar buildup comes from the EGR system. I have left the EGR, DPF system in place ad the only other engine modification I have carried out was to have the swirl flaps removed and replaced with blanks on the advice of my mechanic. As you can see working on diesel engines is not cheap because it is labour intensive. The other thing diesel owners should also do is to regularly take the vehicle on a good highway run and ensure the DPF filter does its job and burns off all the accumulated soot. I am a 76 year old DIY guy! P.S. I love my 2007 BMW X3 3.0d and intend to keep it for the long term. The thing about diesels is that you have to maintain them properly. Forget about the 20,000km 12month changes, do it at least each 10,000km and 6 months and you will have a reliable vehicle in the long term.
P.S. I have also purchased 6 brand new Bosch fuel injectors and installed 6 new Denso glow plugs. The fuel injectors have to be coded to the ECM module.
Had a DPF issue with our 5 year old Triton. Our local savvy mechanic found the issue with the turbo inlet hose (I'm making that part name up but you get the idea), if we had removed the DPF the thing would have run like **** forever and who knows what other issues would have come down the track. Good vid!
@@MatthewJohnCrittenden On reading most of the comments there seems to be a possible split in that hose (Nissan Terranos 1997 on used to split their hoses and "dust" the engine with dirt from air that of course hadn't gone through the air filter...the split was on the bottom of the hose...and threw off the air/fuel ratio as an added bonus. other comments remarked that a stuck open coolant thermostat never let the engine warm up so never triggering the DPF burn.. and ditto for a cooling fan that jammed on...too low engine temp... and the atomiser and igniter that triggered the burn in the cat got plugged up with carbon..so that didn't ignite or spray fuel properly... $50 of removal tools and clean with a toothpick... or dealer fix for $400...each time.
@@JohnSmith-pl2bk Interesting, sounds like my issue. I'm an IT nerd who makes any mechanical issue worse when I meddle with it so leave it to my local guys to deal with. I was surprised it was a problem in such an early model but I guess that's a symptom of modern quality control.
I hear ya on dealers and uneducated mechanics. I have a family friend with a Honda minivan, that was tossing a CEL occasionally. She took it to the dealer and they started rattling off new cats, new O2 sensors (the code was for cat performance low), a bunch of other bits. NO other diagnostic other than pulling codes for them to tell her that. A couple grand, on a minivan worth less than that quote. She came by and I plugged in my fancy scan tool and we went for a ride. First thing I learned is, if you're getting a CAT or O2 code, monitor the sensors, as well as thing like MAP/MAF/etc. Took a couple minutes but all of the sudden I could see it... bank 1 sensor 1 would just go lazy. It wouldn't lock high or low, it would just kind of stop switching right at the voltage it was last at. Then suddenly it would wake up. Never seen an O2 sensor more in dire need of a Redbull than that. A little more digging and I found out that Hondas with that specific engine (3.5L gashole) seem to need all 4 O2 sensors replaced at around 120k miles, and she was almost bang on that mileage. She replaced the one faulty sensor herself and no more problems. That was a year ago.
Currently own a 2012 Mercedes C250 since new with the OM651 engine. I Had to remove the DPF and clean it out last year after 125k kms and it had plenty of country trips during its life. Mechanic was claiming it was because of the poor quality of our diesel fuel here in oz.
At those kays (I'm guessing based on age), if it's not the most simple intake sensors and vacuum leaks or maf sensor resistance being out of spec, it'll be the intake manifold filled up with restriction and probably the intake gasket (leaking), which will then be causing it to overfuel and run up to 25% (or more sometimes) engine power output at idle. I wouldn't be so quick to assume injectors until about 250k or so, then i would definitely include it within the equation for possible contributory causes.
Same deal with catalytic converters. When they die, you practically always have at least one other upstream issue to fix, such as O2 sensors going bad, which is itself often a symptom of an oil or coolant leak into the combustion chamber.
I would cringe when I seen other trades using them 1.6 mm blades cutting ally , NO HEARING PROTECTION, I’ve got military hearing damage and I hear a constant 87 db ringing in my left ear , I have had this affliction for 30 years , I sometimes stopped them , they would take their Apple EarPods out and tell them my story, but thankfully now dva has come to my rescue, I believe spark management is all important, NEVER direct towards glass unless you want to pay for a new window, always direct sparks downward, move your body from the plane of rotation, the thin disks have very small amount of inertia, I had many shatter and they have never caused much damage, I’m a sheetmetal and boily trade guy and refrigeration too, so these have been a every day tool for 3 plus years , I’d never put a thick disk like our good man John used , I’m sure he is aware of the thin disks although not as strong they have far less reciprocal mass and cut so much faster and accurately, I do think they maybe deserve a top up on this topic as since they have been available (20 years) I’ve not bought a thick 125 mm blade , and every trade is the same , Nigel no friends 9 inch got banned due to a few deaths I believe, but I’d still use one if I had to cut masonry or concrete dry , also from experience MUST use sealed eye protection preferably with face shield , as I have now a permanent comma in my right line of sight , the spark bounced around behind my glasses and then landed on my cornea , John , a good topic I teach people about ( I’m a trainer and assessor and hse cert 4 ) is metal identification, the old way was simple spark tests , mild steel long sparks with few sparkles, stainless almost no sparks depending on the grade , high carbon ie drill bit has very short sparks with lots of sparklers, ally bronze brass copper has no sparks , I’m surprised how many people don’t know this but it’s a module in my old boilermaker trades course , but it’s a fundamental skill in welding, like you can’t really weld high carbon steel successfully as you impart a heat affected zone that will break or fail , same with car bodies an chassis, they have alloying elements that we don’t know , oh and ALWAYS disconnect your battery before striking an ark on a car or bike , otherwise you will be replacing your alternator, as its diodes will die , just my take after 37 years of trades and being an employer using all the above, good topic, well presented, thanks again
The information on what the symptoms actually mean needs to be made available. I also had a Ni$$an that was giving me issues and the dealer would just load the parts cannon and point it at the car as a method of diagnosis. Out of frustration I ended up paying Ni$$an for a hard copy of the workshop manual and I sat down and read it. In the back of the engine section there was a whole section on what combination of signs and symptoms indicated what the underlying issue actually was. The section was buried down the back and wasn't the most intuitive to follow, so I guess most mechanics didn't have the time or inclination to read up on a vehicle that wasn't a big seller, tho they would just keep replacing suspect components until the issue went away. I later got a soft copy of the manual, but that diagnosis section had been omitted for some reason.
I have a engine light 💡 on my 2010 triton, it’s just a recirculation valve, open circuit. It comes and goes doggy old connections. Seems to be running well and drinking fine. 🤠 300,000kms
@@JohnSmith-pl2bk No. Every month if I'm lucky. I can go for 3 or 4 weeks with just a 15km return trip to work, maybe an 80km round trip on a weekend occasionally, and a 600km round trip every couple of months.
My 09 X5 35d showed the dreaded DPF light at 130k miles. Dealer of course had a $9000 remedy....REPLACE!. Did a bit of searching and eventually had it cleaned for about 900 Euros in the NL. Could have had it done in the USA but the car was already getting ready for a year long tour of Europe, so I had it done back home. Never had the DPF problem again. EGR cooler broke for the fifth time, MAP sensor went bad, NOx sensors died, active tank again a problem, decided to clean the intake manifold as it was filled with gunk, these things were a bundle of fun! DPF should be possible to clean in most cases without any issues. .
33 year old JDM grey import still going strong. Have a fine stainless steel mesh sock over the end of the exhaust pipe to catch the flaming carbon particles before they set the dry grass on fire while 4wding... It's amazing how much carbon accumulates in that sock when you give it a blow out on the highway after a couple of weeks round town.... No need to worry as the blast of exhaust plus the vibrations from the turbo 4 cylinder bust up the clumps and sift them onto the road surface over time. Usually the first acceleration event overtaking another vehicle will completely smoke screen the road and cause the person being overtaken to slam on their brakes...thinking that the old dunger is going to drop it's guts all over the road....which makes it a breeze to overtake with an old diesel. Every 160k kms I take the intake manifold off and use wooden tongue depressors to dig out the carbon and oil crap caused by the EGR ..... "Open wide and say "AAAAAAAAGH"....
Compression test we /dry then injectors on car spec check via scan tool plus bench test. Look fo r spray pattern ,volume , leak test ,, bypass return to tank test , resistance test . Plus more . Cycle thru cleaner 3x reassess . Fuel pump via scan tool psi check .
10 year old Diesel ute in the driveway and bought it because its a pre dpf. I could buy a new 70+ vehicle to keep up with the Joneses. But managing the maintenance of diesel vehicles for a job I will stick with what i got.
I just purchased a new ute and only had 1 option the Hilux workmate with the 2.7 petrol would love to get it in a 4x4 but having the petrol engine was my main priority to avoid the dpf and other emissions systems they attach to a moden diesel
i was in the same boat as you in 2022 i brought a single cab petrol trition and have been very happy with it i can't stand diesels the way they sound the smell the way they drive turbo lag narrow power band
With the DPF in a Captiva...put something on the accelerator and sit it at somewhere between 2,000 to 2,500 rpm in neutral for half an hour until it would make it go away...didn't really care about what happened after because I wouldn't sell one of those to anyone who deserved it... only customers who wouldn't believe me that I would rather not sell them that car than have it on my conscience than selling one, unless the customer was deserving of one.
In my experience driving medium duty diesels in Canada, the 2 most notorious things to kill the DPF (and DOC) are burning oil and/or coolant. Overfueling is bad, but the fuel is designed to burn. Oil and coolant are not. They are twofold problems as well. Not only do they not combust properly in normal cyclr or regen, but they also leave sticky residue that other soot glombs onto. If they do burn (which they always slightly do) they create different ash.... and the ash plus the sticky residue of non fuel combustion... well, it's not rocket surgery. Monitor fluid consumption. If your losing oil or coolant, or using way more def/adblu than usual, figure out why!
Pajero’s with the 4M41 have had DPF’s since 2006/2007… plagued with issues most definitely. But there’s plenty of models that have had emissions controls EGR, DPF etc much earlier than 2014
@@Lazy_Tim I have Pajero 2009 NT I think it is MY10 model and it seems it doesn't have DPF. I own this car from 2013. It was having 109k when I bought and now it is 220k. I also bought 2008 Kia Sorento and it definteily doesn't have DPF. I was thinking get rid of Kia but now I think it is good car.
Euro 2014 VW passat TDI, had it since new, covered 135,000M UK. Well maintained. The whole time owning the vehicle, occasionally the DPF light will come on signifying a regen is necessary. The car regens, the light goes off. At 120M the vehicle had a major service including new glow plugs, as 2 were reported faulty. The car still appears healthy and drives great. My questions: Is this normal, should I be concerned about regens and how long can a DPF last under this type of service before failing?
I remember that the DPF (which had previously been removed) of my VW 2.0 Diesel was burned free in a german VW workshop using a welding burner. That lasted for a long time.
my thermostat for the water system made my dpf block, fixed thermostat then done a regen the smoke was very bad for 2 regens then dpf fix ive done 150,000 miles since the thermostat replaced and still going strong proper mantaince every 10,000 miles as my van done 300,000 miles and its a 2015 transit jumbo xxlwb
@paulharrison8114 3 hours ago I had the DPF light come up on my 2011 Peugeot 4007 earlier this year. Peugeot dealer couldn’t find the problem. Local independent mechanic couldn’t find the problem. I tried to clean the DPF twice as my scanner indicated it was 120% full. Problem not solved. Diesel specialist had a look and diagnosed the thermostat had failed and was jammed fully open. This meant the temperature never reached the threshold of 65c to initiate a burn. Replaced the thermostat, problem solved.
I had a DPF light go on, the mechanic did a manual burn to clean it, the DPF light came on again and the mechanic had Know Idea why. I changed mechanic and took it to Robson Brothers 4WD Service & Repair in WA, they found the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor was stuffed. They replaced the sensor did another DPF burn and changed the oil. Now happy days.
2008 santa fe, 2.2 diesel. I took my exhaust apart, sprayed it internally with degreaser and let it sit, then power washed it one way then the other until it ran clear,
Before you get a mechanic to do anything involving dpf, check your intercooler hoses. A pin prick hole in the intercooler hoses, can cause dpf light to come on.
You are right about upskilling in the automotive industry BUT I cost a good bit more than an "old school spanner turner" I am a computer technician, and electromechanical specialist willing to work in dirty, dangerous, uncomfortable conditions with tools I purchase myself Yup it does cost 150/hr for my time (and it's about to increase again)
John, there are many causes for DPFs getting "clogged". These can range from any part of the fuelling or exhaust system failing, including sensors to not enough miles driven to allow proper regeneration events. In some cases not resetting the oil when servicing may be the root cause. If some soot is left in the system for long enough, this can harden and become ash over time. Forcing a regen with a clogged DPF may cause it to fail completely. Regular maintenance and a mechanic who understands the system should keep things under control.
The situation kind of highlights ‘who’s can you trust to work on your car. I have a prado (waiting for the outcome of Toyota class action) but I’m thinking a holiday Berrima might be in order and let Berrima Diesel look at it. But the question still remains, how do you pick a mechanic?
I have been having dpf issues too. Been to clean the dpf multiple times. Now I know I have to get some real specialist to find the real problem. I seriousely considered remove the bloody thing, but other than it is illegal, it is also something the insurance company will look for if anything happens. It is simply not worth the risk.
My 2014 Amarok has done 195,000klms and is on the 4th DPF. The firs one failed whilst it was still under warranty and the stealership replaced it. I need to drive it like I stole it to make sure I don't have to replace this one.
My 2014 Fiesta was continuously attempting to regenerate the DPF, but failing. It ran like a dying dog most of the time anyway (I just assumed this was because the PSA 1.6 diesel is rubbish to begin with - it's certainly inferior to Renault's 1.5) with shorter and shorter intervals between such attempts (when it would go into limp mode), until I lost patience and bit the bullet. A local garage advised going to a specialist firm and the specialist firm said that the DPF internals had collapsed due to oil blow-by. They also said that the DPF was an absolute curse and that 100% of their diagnostic business was DPF-related - they never had a problematic pre-DPF vehicle through their doors. They basically cleaned out the whole system, reconditioned the turbo and deleted the DPF internals - at a cost of one arm and one leg (call it $2.5k in Aussie money). When I queried the deletion, their reply was that the catalyst does 90+% of the emissions control and that the DPF is just extra icing on the cake (ie all but pointless) - and all I can say is that the car has since passed three UK MoT emissions tests with flying colours.
I have a 7 year old Mitsubishi Outlander with a similar diesel engine to John's Triton. They're notorious for blowing the main turbo hose which leads to blocking the dpf. Once this happens the engine light comes on and welcome to limp mode. Genuine turbo hose with the inbuilt weakness is $700. Non genuine higher quality is $160. A good quality dpf treatment helps clean the dpf and being able to get rid of the engine light and initiate a burn off cured the problem. There's always a symptom to the dpf failing. My car lives on the highway and had never had a dpf issue until 140000klm, my driving is text book perfect for a modern diesel, mainly long hot runs, no short trips. Just need to be aware of the dpf potential weakness.
I saw many people switch off engine during regensration, or never take the car on longer trip with high power. So many times is problem in driving style. exchange is last resort after diagnistic, regeneration trough diagnistic, which will clean and also show what is eventually the problem.
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I had the DPF light come up on my 2011 Peugeot 4007 earlier this year. Peugeot dealer couldn’t find the problem. Local independent mechanic couldn’t find the problem. I tried to clean the DPF twice as my scanner indicated it was 120% full. Problem not solved.
Diesel specialist had a look and diagnosed the thermostat had failed and was jammed fully open. This meant the temperature never reached the threshold of 65c to initiate a burn. Replaced the thermostat, problem solved.
Thermo fan in one of the work trucks was the issue.
Stayed on and wouldn't let the engine get hot enough.
I think Peugeot also has a outside air thermostat in the mirror as well that can cause DPF problems.
Dpf will not start it's duty cycle till about 80degtee in most fitted
Yes that is the importantance of maintaining operating Temperature
@@happytuber3669 good to hear. My 4007 has done 260,000 kms with 10,000 km intervals between oil/filter changes. Nothing wrong with the engine or DPF. The thermostat failure caused the problem. I even did a 1500 km run to Melbourne and back but a regeneration did not occur due to the failed thermostat. Engine temperature never reached the 65C threshold for the ECU to initiate a regeneration.
20 years on my f250 still going strong. It's now valued higher than when it was new, no emissions no worries 👍
7.3 will do 1 million miles, if looked after... i have the 4.2tdi, cos i dont like tech.. no computer, no glow plugs, all mechanical.. 700nm.. 14 lt 100..[ bigger turbo ]. std is a mitsubishi td04. i bought a bearing td06 ish.. still small. but no lag..
@@harrywalker968 Even when it fails, you can get a reman 7.3 and off you go again. Today the first long block I found was $6,600 and full engine for $11,600. A rebuilt manual transmission and clutch, while you are there, for another $3k or so. So $15k and you are good for another million miles.
Speed of air pistons when it's rebuilt perfect solution 😮
@@andrewlace I've seen these pistons mentioned quite a few times at Dave's Auto YT channel. Apparently these pistons must be amazing with regards to combustion efficiency, although I am a little sceptical. Love the thinking behind them though and the fact that there is still innovation happening at the diesel front. 😍
@@Zgurkogel most innovation is for power, the only engine I think efficiency was a thought is the ford 2.7 in the trucks, I would like to put that 2.7 in a jeep rubicon
ford should have made it a hybrid option also so you stop and go on battery and engine starts up after 10 mph they could prolly get that truck to 30 mpg on city
personally I would want to see a 2.7 hybrid in a service van , not them chitty euro junk vans they import 2003 real metal van
there's an irish youtuber dude working in england who is basically a mobile dpf cleaner. quite a few of his jobs are on cars that have been to a mechanic multiple times for a dpf issue. he's a wiz on the odb scanner and finds the root cause often by looking at graphs in realtime, fixes it, then cleans the dpf without removing it. there's a common fault with something I think they call the 5th glow plug. it's on the exhaust and it's always frozen and a pain to remove. and cheers for the non ev video.
Any chance that you could post the name of his channel?
@@16sputnik7 I think the guy he's talking about is "O'Rileys Autos".
One of the few good mechanics left that can actually diagnose and not just read a code reader.
O'Reilly's motors is the DPF wizard in the UK
This is correct. I have 15 x bt50 we maintain with the 2.2 duratorq(same as ranger). Their is a fuel vaporiser and glow plug on the exhaust. It gets blocked and the burn offs cannot happen. Ford will charge ya like 400 bucks for the vaporiser. It just needs to be poked out clean with a pick. 50 bucks worth of tools(you need the correct tool to get it out as spanners will just strip it) and 15 minutes and its all fixed. Every damn time.
5th injector. Used to regenerate the DPF by burning off the deposits.
Someone else mentioned "O'Rileys Autos" UA-cam channel. DPF education to expert level. Any mechanic should binge-watch and make a fortune fixing DPF problems.
DPF problems ? just throw the parts in the trash and buy new every 50,000 miles . That's about it
JC you are a ray of sunshine and wisdom, love your channel and straight forward style (zero bull)
Much respect from the UK
My 2019 Ford Ranger began to blow smoke and smelt like an oil refinery. Took it in to Ford for a service and explained the problem. Upon collecting the vehicle they said I was up for new injectors for a hefty sum of $3,500.00 but was covered by the warranty which had 12 weeks left on it. They told me that when they plugged the car in to their laptop it showed that the car had tried to regenerate and burn the particles off over 400 times and asked me do I only drive short distances to which I replied yes, the last 18 months since i retired. Long story short diesels need to be driven at speed but especially under load for quite some time to give the DPF a chance to burn the particles off. That is how they explained it to a retired builder who knows zero about cars. That particular vehicle is the 2L diesel Biturbo model.
Thanks for the video John, looks like I'm in the market for a petrol vehicle.
If I remember correctly you need to drive it for 20 minutes non stop at over 50mph for the average car to do and dpf regeneration cycle..Which can be tricky for some people.
deHaviland did a pretty good job of timber when they built the mosquito.
They also used wood to mount the 30mm Aden cannon in early jet fighters as the wood bearers didn't get torn apart by the recoil like ali did....
Especially when they developed a 2 pot glue to hold them together in tropical conditions. The casein based glue worked OK in cold European conditions but they fell apart here with the expected result. We made them here at Bankstown too.
Greetings from the UK. Cheers for another great video with lots of rational and well-argued content but, from personal experience, twice now the dpf light has been a symptom of a faulty sensor rather than a failed dpf. The most recent one's been in for about 20k miles now with no further issues, so I'm pretty confident that the sensor has been the root cause both times. The vehicle's done just 80k miles but at least it's a much cheaper and easier home-fix than replacing the filter.
Incidentally, I'm ashamed to admit the car in question is a 3-point E-class, but, to its credit, it's been utterly reliable in that mileage aside from this issue, a broken spring and a noisy wheel bearing, all of which I was able to repair myself, 'so there's that', to coin a phrase!
Read al the comments...failed fan on all the time cooled the engine too much so the DPF never got triggered.
Thermostat suck open...same thing.
Extra fuel atomiser and igniter to start the regen gets clogged.
Spend $50 on the right spanners and remove and clean...or spend $400....
Most DPF' DONT FAIL they get dirty & clogged up..😅😅😅😅😅😅
Most DPF's don't die & don't need to be replaced. PROPPER maintenance good luck finding mechanic that knows his job.
There are 2 types of mechanics. Troubleshooters and those that load the parts canon until the problem goes away.
Shop managers love parts cannons they will just say well the part was old but just because something is old doesn't mean it is not functioning my grandfather lived until 103 he could still walk
So Joe Biden really is a capable president then?
My Late Dad used to say" mechanics fit the parts, auto sparks solves the problems"...
John, agree completely with your "advise"...... We have a fleet of the new Ford rangers at work "WA Mining Industry" some most with less than 5K clocked up and DPF warning lights coming on at what looks like "very early" Most likely from restricted low speed on site with no chance of highway speeds to burn off the DPF... interesting times to come ... NOT!
not designed to use on a mine site as you need to go over 80 klm hour to activate it so utes
Low speeds, remaining on site (no high speed freeways), doing low kms (start, short drive, stop), and for short duration runs (minutes not hours).
This chockes the living shit out of the DPF as the vehicle needs high speed freeway driving on regular basis to clear the choking build-up that kills these DPFs, remaining on site at low controlled site speed limits prevents these engines getting up to temperature needed to trigger the burn off, idle and low speed driving doesn't reach the required temperature.
@davidharton7202 you beat me to it by 36 seconds 😅😅😅 guess it confirms what we're saying 😅
The mine site is a Private road remove the DPF on new delivery and refit it on resale.
The internet will tell you to get Cybertrucks instead.
DPF's are maintained by strategies in the engine controller that keep track of the soot mass in the DPF. When soot mass exceeds a calibrated value, the controller will look for the right driving conditions, such as cruising on the highway, then begin adding fuel via a dedicated injector somewhere ahead of the DPF, but behind the diesel oxidation catalyst. This raises the exhaust temperature to where the soot in the DPF gets cooked into ash, which will pass through the pores in the ceramic substrate. 2 very common issues that prevent the onboard DPF cleaning strategy from working are 1) never driving the vehicle in a way that will allow the regeneration process to begin, ( the vehicle will warn you about this) and the fuel injector in the exhaust pipe getting restricted to the point where the temperature inside the DPF never gets high enough to cook the soot into ash. Anyway, at some level of soot mass, the vehicle will warn you that speed will be limited in so many miles, and if that is ignored, a further reduction in power and speed will be next, and eventually you may be limited to 15 MPH or so. Of course you could wind up with a completely plugged DPF, with the engine unable to run. At that point the DPF would have to be removed and cleaned by a facility that can perform this service, or replaced.
Congrats on reaching 400k subs, John!
Thank you!
❤congratulations.. regards from Athens Greece..😊
Love your channel greets from the sahara of the middle east.@@AutoExpertJC
That fragment about reading codes reminded me how the dealer replaced (under warranty) a coil or spiral on the steering column in my car. This was related to steering wheel position or something similar.
I had a wheel alignment done, poorly, and the steering wheel was slightly rotated while driving straight. That caused intermittent errors and disabling of EBD, ESP, trailer sway control, and so on.
I looked it up on mighty Google, and wheel alignment was often the cause. I did this, problem went away. The dealer, however, diagnosed the vehicle during service, and proceeded to spend $2,500 on parts plus labour to fix the issue that no longer existed. Because the diagnostic tool "told them to".
As well as every bit of advice given here it's important to drive a modern diesel on a half-hour minimum non-stop run (motorway if poss) every few weeks - preferably with twenty minutes of that journey in a lower gear that maintains the engine at 2000 to 2500 RPM - so that the DPF is fully regenerated by the car itself. This is especially important for vehicles that only do shortish runs each day as the engine and all the stuff attached like DPFs, EGRs etc don't get hot enough to burn the fuel efficiently and the result is more than normal soot building up. Make sure the diesel tank is over half full on the 'burn runs' as it is one of several criteria that the vehicle's computer needs to see before it does an 'active regeneration' (burn off) of the soot gathered within the DPF.
Not all cars are like that. My Volvo will do a DPF burn even if the low fuel warning light is on.
Good to hear. I figured that might be the case and that’s what I have always done to mine.
Great advice 👍. I run a can of Liqui Moly DPF cleaner through my tank every 6 months and that seems to keep things running smoothly. You also need to get these things out on a highway run every now and then at higher revs in order to get everything hot enough to burn. I run mine at 95km/h in sport mode for 30 minutes and it seems to get the job done. It’s a Golf GT TDI with 230,000 k’s on the clock. I know you love them 😁
My 20 year old vw t5 still runs perfectly dpf clean and oil change every 5000 kms. Diesels are dirty engines and worse when driven short trips
@@DavidBrand-y3wI thought the first VW Transporter fitted with a DPF was the 2009 T5.2?
Maybe …. Just maybe
I have a 12 year old diesel 4x4 in my driveway….
And I have absolutely no intention of updating…
All the nanny state BS on new vehicles absolutely repulses me…
I actually like driving and don’t appreciate all the crap that takes control off me
I can reverse park and all by myself!!!
Just sayin
Low iq
@@batmanlives6456 Please keep it in your driveway, don't drive it on the road. I don't own a car and ride motorcycles. You can't wind your window up to keep out the smoke and fumes from old diesel engines that are around you.
translation: I'm a selfish old git who doesn't care if I give you cancer
Nailed it in one JC. Please allow me to add my tale of woe to this thread. We had a 2010 Subaru Forester Diesel for a time. Went well for years as I was aware of the DPF's special needs. They sure work a treat when they're working. But we were interstate cruising along a freeway at 110kph when the DPF light came on. WTF? Surely these were ideal conditions for a DPF?! I knew if I turned the engine off it'd go into some sort of limp home mode, so I did a quick underbonnet inspection and kept driving. Got home no probs. The next start-up we had the Xmas tree dash. Never seen so many lights on a dash!
I'm a DIY kinda guy so a long period of investigation/frustration ensued. New DPF was $6500 at the time. No aftermarket units available. And no bugger knew anything about them. Eventually I found exactly what you mentioned - a cracked intercooler pipe. For any other unfortunate EE20 owners out there - it's the big bugger under the intercooler. Easy to replace and you can just use a 3" silicone bend from Autobarns.
Unfortunately before I found that I'd cracked the shits, removed the DPF and gutted it like a rabbit. And had it remapped sans DPF + performance tune. Which made it go like the clappers. But also made an embarrassing cloud of diesel smoke upon any acceleration. Nasty.
Then the car got written off. Good riddance. First and last diesel I'll ever own. I've been DPF burned. ;)
I fixed my friend’s DPF light just by driving it. He did a lot of short trips which set it off, so I took it on the highway and this fixed it.
This is what is recommended in the Nissan Navara Owner's Manual. Drive at 80km/h or faster for 20 minutes to clean the DPF. Short trips, long idling and very slow speeds will tend to clog the DPF and trigger the warning light. The dude may be able to write in full sentences and use paragraphs but apparently can't read an Owner's Manual. And the mechanic took the opportunity to make some easy money.
@@zoltantoth7286 yup, this was a D40 Navara too. I’ve also told my friend to change the oil more often if he’s gonna be doing lots of short trips and not getting the engine really hot.
@@uzaiyaro If he's going to do short trips, tell him to do it on a bicycle like I do. Saves wear and tear on the engine, saves fuel and is quicker. By the time you get in and start the engine, you're half way there on the bike. I tell people I get diesel for half price because half the km I do is on the bike.
We here in Austria have bad experiences with aftermarket DPFs. Original is the way to go.
Injector cleaning and testing is mandatory but only done by a very small percentage of workshops.
My favorite diesel dpf fix that I had to perform about 10 years ago when I still turned wrenches. ISX 15l Cummins, had many dpf and other faults. Started inspecting the intake air system and also the exhaust system. Failures found were: turbo leaking oil into the exhaust, and filled the dpf with oil.; found coolant in the intake, led to the egg cooler leaking diagnosis, which had also ruined the egr flow sensor. Bottom line, turbo, DPF and DOC (diesel oxidation catalyst, the first step in a dpf assembly, then the dpf itself), EGR cooler, the sensors for both devices. Thankfully Cummins actually stood by their warranty as the DPF issues were caused by a turbo failure, read as, "progressive failure". One thing that is shocking on EQR equipped diesels is, it's amazing the amount of soot that you find in the intake manifold. At least Caterpillar used something called Clean Gas Induction as opposed to EGR in the on- road truck engines.
Wish I knew what I came to learn through my own DPF saga. 2015 MQ triton, DPF light, sluggish etc etc. Replaced the DPF, then found out that the turbo hose was bad later on. Not super annoyed as the car had 150k on the clock at the time and thought, new DPF at this time isn't unreasonable. Had some other stuff done at the same time. Some thousands later and she hasn't missed a beat and shes over the 200k point now and couldn't be happier with my triton.
Read all the comments for extra clues re possible failure inducing conditions...
failed fan on all the time cooled the engine too much so the DPF never got triggered.
Thermostat suck open...same thing.
Extra fuel atomiser and igniter to start the regen gets clogged.
Spend $50 on the right spanners and remove and clean...or spend $400.
A friend of mine removed the DPF on his Mercedes Sprinter and it had after that 20% lower fuels consumption, I have heard many other report similar results...
Twenty percent seems like a tall tale, but it will consume less because the regeneration process uses additional fuel.
It's not just a matter of removing a DPF, you need to either fool the ECU into thinking it's still there, or change the code enough to allow the ECU to operate without a DPF, (and it's associated sensors, pressure, temperature etc)
Then when you have a different issue, take it in for a service and the mechanic puts a reader on it... do they know of the DPF missing and how it was done?
I guarantee unless done properly, they'll end up with problems down the track, esp with a Mercedes vehicle. A friend of mine did similar with a Sprinter van, and it was the start of a nightmare that is still continuing.
20% fuel savings? Tell 'em their dreaming
A mate of mine deleted his DPF when new in 2017. Had no issues so far.
14 year old Diesel Mazda 3 from new owner here. 260,000km down. Had the intake and DPF cleaned once. Still runs perfect, 5.4l/100km.
You are correct about the symptom. 200 series has an EGR problem which then corrodes the injectors, which then ends up stuffing up the Dpfs
Great video. Very good advice. I'm in the driver training industry. Quite often clients use their own car and the engine management light is on. For the driving test the car presenting is not permitted to have any warning lights showing. So they take the car to the local mechanic who clears the code and light goes out. But they never fix the root cause and on comes the light again. Quite often during the test. Test gets abandoned and money lost. I always tell them don't just get the light put out the light is warning you something is wrong causing that.
Brilliant video John, summing up the dire situation in the motor trade of their technical inabilities and the highway robbery they are doing. There is a good lad in the UK championing the knowledge of DPF's and after-treatments to all. Jimmy of O'Rileys Autos (on You-tube)opens bare how main dealers and indy garages are throwing parts at the issue. and of cause lightening the pockets of the customers.
Replace with straight pipe put through the middle of the old dpf and weded up to look oem😉. Put a sticker over the warning light. Keep driving, enjoying the better fuel economy from removing that but plug from the exhaust.
As for injectors. In most cases having them sonic cleaned brings their spray pattern right back. Or get a set of good second hand units cleaned and tested to swap straight in.
Lastly, egr + crank case gases = sludge in the intake. Real problem on diesel abd di-petrol. Well worth getting it blasted off with walnut shells.
If you remove/bypass the DPF without telling the ECU it’s not there, you will have more issues. It will keep trying to do DPF burns but the DPF isn’t there, so you’ll find the exhaust gas temp will go through the roof and I’ve seen cars that have melted the rear bumper due to this.
I drive Kubota tractors and they have a burn that comes on quite regularly, not silently like a car does. When it’s burning you know about it. These motors are extremely reliable, beyond belief. I’ve done many hours.
John, When I done my training, I believed the fuel system for diesels, went something like this:- air sucked through air filter and pass through MAF sensor, then compressed via turbo, then through intercooler, then into cylinders, MAF sensor measured air flow, ECU calculated fuel with references to pedal position, load, Temp, RPM and air mass, adjusting mixture level via closed loop with EG sensor, oxygen sensor. Timing achieved via cam sensor/crank sensor. Also sensor in tailpipe if DPF is fitted. Injector contamination/dirt, also turbo bearings wear allowing excessive oil leakage and drop in performance, as well as any leakages, also the MAF sensor hot wire dirty from oil contamination too, all could contribute to this issue. One thing you may have forgotten to point out, just one transistor/component failure in the ECU or a faulty sensor can and will upset the operation of this device and over fueling etc will result. The electronics is hard to diagnose, but that what the OBD2 plug and diagnostic tools are for, although a proper understanding of the codes is necessary. Injectors can be refurbished/cleaned. In the case study you presented I believe a lack of communication between the shop and the customer was the root cause of over charge. Secondly the customer is not there to fund the education or learning curve of the mechanic, thats should be provided from regular updates and attending relevant trade school training provided by the Main importer dealer of that particular brand.
Thanks for another great video.
Need I remind you that the other epic JC was a wood butcher also? 😂
Massive shout out to Border Diesel in Tweed Heads.
Craig, Emma and the team are right onto modern and ancient diesels and anything in between. If you're anywhere from Ballina to Brisbane or somewhere west, give them a call. It could save you thousands.
You can easily tell when diesel vehicles have had their DPF removed or tampered with from the soot build-up on the back of the vehicle near the exhaust top.
Another point with older diesel vehicles is the use of the correct engine oil. Older vehicles will consume more engine oil and if it's not low SAPS oil, the ash generated from oil consumption accumulates in the DPF and won't/can't be burned off during regeneration.
I've seen proposals for zero-SAPs motor oil based around copper-soap anti-wear compound that also functions as the detergent.
Just a heads up, if you have a Mitsubishi Pajero Sport in Australia and your dpf light comes on get your mechanic to check the turbo hose. Local mechanic did a cleaning burn, light came back on next day, he removed the dpf sent it away to be cleaned, refitted it, next day the light came back on. To be fair he did all that for a reasonable cost, but gave up on it. Took the car to a dealer and straight up diagnosed and replaced split turbo hose. Apparently a common fault. Of course they charged a premium for the job but at least it was fixed...... Specific product knowledge helped in this case I guess.
Thanks for advocating for us mechanics. We do have an ever increasing degree of difficulty in diagnosing modern vehicles. I have worked at various dealerships over the last 15 years, and am seeing a definite decrease in the amount of diagnostic information supplied to us technicians from the manufacturers. They release a new technology and then proceed to not teach us how it works. How does that help with timely repair for the customer?
The last vehicle I drove whilst working for a company was a ford transit van. In less than a year the dog light started to come on. It went to the dealers for a forced re gen of the dpf. It had become such a problem it was being taken back to the dealers every two weeks. The dealers were charging the company I worked for to do the re gen as it was not covered by the warranty. I retired before the van was 2 years old. All the vans the company owned suffered from the same problems. The problem was blamed on the limited journeys we did most journeys were on average 3 miles then the engine would stand and cool for about half an hour then on to the next short journey. The company should have gone with a petrol fleet but they insisted on diesel. One fun fact the company suggested their employees to the vehicle on a long trip on a motorway at the weekends to put the vehicles into re gen mode but were not prepared to pay for the time taken out of our weekends so we spent half a day every two weeks sat at the dealers.
I have a 2019 3 litre Amarok. The DPF light has come on twice so far and was covered under warranty. Both times it was just a sensor and was fixed for free. The first time they did a regen so I could use the car for a few days till I could book it in .The thing I have learnt about this is to carry a scan tool specific for VW products that can do a forced regeneration as some times that can fix the problem and to be able to locate a problem sensor but if a problem happens near dingo piss creek I can do a forced regeneration and drive to a large town or even home. When the light comes on it derates a lot and would be difficult to tow a van with out a regeneration
Brought a diesel Outlander that had lived in town (38000K's) never went far enough to do a PBF burn. It was about to die it turns out. Due to DPF clogging up. On the way home 100+ Ks at 100KPH the improvement was noticeable. Over the next few months a few trips up and down a mountain or 2 a few times & changed the oil at 43 & 47, 000. Now it goes very well & gets 6.4LP100K normal (60K) trips & 5.8 on a longer run.
FMD I had a diesel Astra that had these symptoms. I took it to Holden about 5 times with the same problem & replaced nearly everything. Cost me a fortune.. Holden couldn't fix it. I ended up scraping it. Made my blood run cold watching this.
Your comment to the effect of back then cars were simpler and easy to work on. Back in the 70’s, I had a timing light, set of feeler gauges, oil filter wrench, small set of spanners, and that was about what I needed to service my car (clean set plugs, clean & set distributor points, set engine timing, change oil).
Work done, up to the local for a few coldies 😅.
Now, you need a computer to talk to the on board computer, you need the proprietary software that the manufacturer won’t part with to interrogate the onboard computer so you can see the fault codes (see farmers in USA taking John Deere to court for restrictive trade on that one). I worked in ITSM for 40+ years, I saw computer systems get much more complex, more stuff more chance of failure harder to diagnose same with modern cars.
Same here. Only I don't own an oil filter wrench. I fit all my filters with a hose clamp with a bit of inner tube rubber and it gives me the necessary grip. The only thing hackable would be the digital clock.
As a commercial driver who had to spend many hours swearing at delays while two Isuzu trucks did their “Green burns” right as I got to a pick up or delivery location, or needed to do an “Orange burn” miles away from a freeway exit in heavy traffic, or on a rural highway at night where it was unsafe to pull over, I can tall you some prime reasons for DPF failures/frequent “Burns” (Regens.)
1. Idling the vehicle extensively during an auto (Green) regen. Hit the highway, as it burns hotter at higher pressure.
2. Turning the vehicle off during a regen. (Or exceeding the five minute buffer before parking and running the Orange regen.) Doing this on a Green can cause glazing of the particles in the filter. Doing it on an Orange can immobilise the vehicle or at least put it into a limp mode that can only be reset by an authorised mechanic, and result in a three hour manual burn if you are lucky.
3. EGR valve issues. Isuzu, looking at you. Fix those damn tissue paper strong EGR valve walls. Two trucks, two similar failures. Constant Green burns, with Orange burns every 150-200km on highway travel, along with highly pressurised coolant in one case.
4. Fuel quality. These two trucks stopped having DPF issues after being sold, as the new owners used fuel from service stations, instead of the “Train diesel” our company used. It was fine on the 80’s-00’s trucks, but all the newer ones that had DPF or AdBlue frequently had power and emission problems, along with higher than expected injector failures. When we started using service station fuel, the majority of problems stopped. Cheap fuel means expensive repairs.
I too own an Isuzu and just had a series of problems with mine. I have learnt a lot about Isuzu DPF's over the last 6 months. Isuzu's have a very awkward DPF system. I had my DPF cleaned professionally and it is much better but not perfect. Its back to an auto regen every 300 kms.
I've had a 2008 model Citroen C4 with a DPF for 16 years, I used to do a 20+ minute highway run 1-3 times a week so never had any issues with the DPF (it always cleared itself every week), recently as I now work from home I don't drive as much and so for the first time in 16 years the DPF light came on (well actually a message on the dash about the de-pollution system in Frenchlish) , and I realised the car hadn't had a run on the highway for a few months, so I took my wife down to Ikea for some meatballs, she was happy and as it's about 20 mins away down the M1 and 20 min back my DPF is happy and cleared out.
Long story short if you own a diesel they really love it when you go for a decent run on the highway, just like it's cruel to keep a pet dog coup'd up at home all week with no walks, It's cruel to a diesel to make it run around town and not have a chance to stretch it's legs on the highway, treat your diesel vehicle like your pet dog and give it regular outings.
Useful video John. Thanks. Ihave very little experience with diesel vehicles, but i now know what was going on with the modern work truck i was driving from 2021 to early 2023, when the dpf light came on and we had to put the vehicle in a certain high idle mode and let it do it's thing for 30 minutes or so. It was clearing a clogged filter by burning off particulates at furnace temperatures. The diesel fitters didn't explain what was exactly happening when the truck was doing this. They were good mechanics who had really tough, shitty jobs, and they weren't the best communicators. But they weren't paid to be good communicators. Ive since then heard about their work conditions. The company fckd them properly. Paid them almost like slaves. These were the guys who would lay in the mud ona rainy day, draining 20 litres of hydraulic oil from a filthy old excavator, drag it out, and dispose of it properly. They would replace parts that weigh hundreds of kilos using a small crane on the back of a truck. This is always dangerous to one's health. These guys and girls never shied away from the hard work. Not even the young female apprentice.
With the pressure transducer check the hoses, any leaks and the check engine light will leave you stranded. Fixed mine with a bit of hose pipe as a temporary fix before flogging it and getting a petrol car!
Pine hollow auto diagnostics YT channel does a good job of diagnosing car problems.
And South Main Auto
For those of you with a MC [ Aus ] or Mark 4 Mondeo [ UK ], if the DPF light comes on it's more than likely the fuel vaporiser is blocked.
See Alan Howatt's UA-cam videos, he used to repair Mondeo Mark 4/ MC diesels being used as taxis in the UK and after replacing the vaporiser and after doing a regen the DPF was fine. He did cover the Mark 5 as well.
I have an August, 2007 BMW 3.0d with the M57 tu2 6 cyl diesel. It has only 153,000km on the clock. The car is now off the road and I am performing some in depth maintenance myself. I only have a basic mechanical knowledge and have recently gained much more by watching UA-cam videos. My engine seemed to run well with plenty of power. I have owned the car for over 7.5 years. I decided to tackle the engine. I am pretty fussy with my engine and carry out most of the maintenance myself. I know BMW's are notorious for oil leaks however my engine had none.
I removed the throttle body and found the EGR valve attached to the rear of the throttle body had about 1cm of carbon/tar like substance around the edge. When I examined the plastic intake manifold, I found it to be in a similar condition. I removed it completely from the engine and removed all the metal fittings from it and placed it in a caustic soda bath for about two days. It cleaned it like new. The only issue I had was to flush out all the caustic soda with a good number of garden hose treatments. The next issue I had was to clean the aluminium head intakes and valves. For this I purchased a video endoscope and several wire brushes for my 1/4 inch cordless impact driver. I managed to snap a couple of the heads off the brushes inside the intakes which I retrieved with a magnet. I then decided to use the brushes with my cordless drill which operated a much slower speed and did not snap off the brush heads. I also saw a UA-cam video where a guy used several (about 8) cut off cable ties to clean the valves. Also make sure the pistons are at top dead centre before working here on each cylinder. The idea is to clean as much of the carbon/tar out as much as possible. I also have had a small sandblasting gun for several years which I modified with a tip extension and made up two adapters for my wet/dry vac and purchased a bag of walnut blasting media on eBay. The idea is to blast the inside of the head and valves with walnut media and immediately suck it back out with the vac. I took extreme care not to allow the walnut media to enter the engine. Fortunately I also have an 8cu ft air compressor which was essential for this job.
I haven't completed this process yet, however the work I have done to my head and valves look like new. Fortunately you can recycle the used walnut media from the vac and reuse it in the blasting process.
I was quite astounded at the degree of carbon buildup in my intake, head and throttle body after only 153,000km and in order to mitigate much of the carbon/tar buildup in the future have fitted a Provent 200 oil catch can to my engine. I believe that much of the carbon/tar buildup comes from the EGR system.
I have left the EGR, DPF system in place ad the only other engine modification I have carried out was to have the swirl flaps removed and replaced with blanks on the advice of my mechanic.
As you can see working on diesel engines is not cheap because it is labour intensive. The other thing diesel owners should also do is to regularly take the vehicle on a good highway run and ensure the DPF filter does its job and burns off all the accumulated soot.
I am a 76 year old DIY guy!
P.S. I love my 2007 BMW X3 3.0d and intend to keep it for the long term. The thing about diesels is that you have to maintain them properly. Forget about the 20,000km 12month changes, do it at least each 10,000km and 6 months and you will have a reliable vehicle in the long term.
P.S. I have also purchased 6 brand new Bosch fuel injectors and installed 6 new Denso glow plugs. The fuel injectors have to be coded to the ECM module.
Thanks for educating me, John.
Would love to see a montage of all the times John does the "blowing his brains out" gestures over the years!
We need more car wizards
Had a DPF issue with our 5 year old Triton. Our local savvy mechanic found the issue with the turbo inlet hose (I'm making that part name up but you get the idea), if we had removed the DPF the thing would have run like **** forever and who knows what other issues would have come down the track. Good vid!
Was it sucking the inlet hose flat?
@@JohnSmith-pl2bk Possibly, not sure of the detail. I'm a clutz with car mechanicals so trust the local shop to deal with it.
@@MatthewJohnCrittenden
On reading most of the comments there seems to be a possible split in that hose (Nissan Terranos 1997 on used to split their hoses and "dust" the engine with dirt from air that of course hadn't gone through the air filter...the split was on the bottom of the hose...and threw off the air/fuel ratio as an added bonus.
other comments remarked that a stuck open coolant thermostat never let the engine warm up so never triggering the DPF burn..
and ditto for a cooling fan that jammed on...too low engine temp...
and the atomiser and igniter that triggered the burn in the cat got plugged up with carbon..so that didn't ignite or spray fuel properly...
$50 of removal tools and clean with a toothpick...
or dealer fix for $400...each time.
@@JohnSmith-pl2bk Interesting, sounds like my issue. I'm an IT nerd who makes any mechanical issue worse when I meddle with it so leave it to my local guys to deal with. I was surprised it was a problem in such an early model but I guess that's a symptom of modern quality control.
I hear ya on dealers and uneducated mechanics. I have a family friend with a Honda minivan, that was tossing a CEL occasionally. She took it to the dealer and they started rattling off new cats, new O2 sensors (the code was for cat performance low), a bunch of other bits. NO other diagnostic other than pulling codes for them to tell her that. A couple grand, on a minivan worth less than that quote. She came by and I plugged in my fancy scan tool and we went for a ride. First thing I learned is, if you're getting a CAT or O2 code, monitor the sensors, as well as thing like MAP/MAF/etc. Took a couple minutes but all of the sudden I could see it... bank 1 sensor 1 would just go lazy. It wouldn't lock high or low, it would just kind of stop switching right at the voltage it was last at. Then suddenly it would wake up. Never seen an O2 sensor more in dire need of a Redbull than that. A little more digging and I found out that Hondas with that specific engine (3.5L gashole) seem to need all 4 O2 sensors replaced at around 120k miles, and she was almost bang on that mileage. She replaced the one faulty sensor herself and no more problems. That was a year ago.
Currently own a 2012 Mercedes C250 since new with the OM651 engine. I Had to remove the DPF and clean it out last year after 125k kms and it had plenty of country trips during its life. Mechanic was claiming it was because of the poor quality of our diesel fuel here in oz.
The poor quality Australian diesel is the biggest cop-out in the book.
Our diesel meets en590 the same as the Eu
I never don’t not smiles at yuz re marks Mr John thanks for your pleasant ry z
At those kays (I'm guessing based on age), if it's not the most simple intake sensors and vacuum leaks or maf sensor resistance being out of spec, it'll be the intake manifold filled up with restriction and probably the intake gasket (leaking), which will then be causing it to overfuel and run up to 25% (or more sometimes) engine power output at idle.
I wouldn't be so quick to assume injectors until about 250k or so, then i would definitely include it within the equation for possible contributory causes.
My DPF light came on recently MQ triton. Mechanic cleared it manual burn off. $300 easy fix.
I have a 10 year old pre-DPF 200 series (one of the very last), keeping it for as long as possible
Same deal with catalytic converters. When they die, you practically always have at least one other upstream issue to fix, such as O2 sensors going bad, which is itself often a symptom of an oil or coolant leak into the combustion chamber.
I would cringe when I seen other trades using them 1.6 mm blades cutting ally , NO HEARING PROTECTION, I’ve got military hearing damage and I hear a constant 87 db ringing in my left ear , I have had this affliction for 30 years , I sometimes stopped them , they would take their Apple EarPods out and tell them my story, but thankfully now dva has come to my rescue, I believe spark management is all important, NEVER direct towards glass unless you want to pay for a new window, always direct sparks downward, move your body from the plane of rotation, the thin disks have very small amount of inertia, I had many shatter and they have never caused much damage, I’m a sheetmetal and boily trade guy and refrigeration too, so these have been a every day tool for 3 plus years , I’d never put a thick disk like our good man John used , I’m sure he is aware of the thin disks although not as strong they have far less reciprocal mass and cut so much faster and accurately, I do think they maybe deserve a top up on this topic as since they have been available (20 years) I’ve not bought a thick 125 mm blade , and every trade is the same , Nigel no friends 9 inch got banned due to a few deaths I believe, but I’d still use one if I had to cut masonry or concrete dry , also from experience MUST use sealed eye protection preferably with face shield , as I have now a permanent comma in my right line of sight , the spark bounced around behind my glasses and then landed on my cornea , John , a good topic I teach people about ( I’m a trainer and assessor and hse cert 4 ) is metal identification, the old way was simple spark tests , mild steel long sparks with few sparkles, stainless almost no sparks depending on the grade , high carbon ie drill bit has very short sparks with lots of sparklers, ally bronze brass copper has no sparks , I’m surprised how many people don’t know this but it’s a module in my old boilermaker trades course , but it’s a fundamental skill in welding, like you can’t really weld high carbon steel successfully as you impart a heat affected zone that will break or fail , same with car bodies an chassis, they have alloying elements that we don’t know , oh and ALWAYS disconnect your battery before striking an ark on a car or bike , otherwise you will be replacing your alternator, as its diodes will die , just my take after 37 years of trades and being an employer using all the above, good topic, well presented, thanks again
The information on what the symptoms actually mean needs to be made available.
I also had a Ni$$an that was giving me issues and the dealer would just load the parts cannon and point it at the car as a method of diagnosis.
Out of frustration I ended up paying Ni$$an for a hard copy of the workshop manual and I sat down and read it. In the back of the engine section there was a whole section on what combination of signs and symptoms indicated what the underlying issue actually was. The section was buried down the back and wasn't the most intuitive to follow, so I guess most mechanics didn't have the time or inclination to read up on a vehicle that wasn't a big seller, tho they would just keep replacing suspect components until the issue went away.
I later got a soft copy of the manual, but that diagnosis section had been omitted for some reason.
I have a engine light 💡 on my 2010 triton, it’s just a recirculation valve, open circuit. It comes and goes doggy old connections. Seems to be running well and drinking fine. 🤠 300,000kms
I have a SsangYong, just over 10 years old. No issues whatsoever with the DPF, not even a light. Some manufacturers knew what they were doing
Do you regularly get highway miles...every day/2 days/week?
@@JohnSmith-pl2bk No. Every month if I'm lucky. I can go for 3 or 4 weeks with just a 15km return trip to work, maybe an 80km round trip on a weekend occasionally, and a 600km round trip every couple of months.
@@pagophilus
That 15km trip is the clincher.
so every day twice a day your DPF will unobtrusively be firing off....
@@JohnSmith-pl2bk Well, it's 7.5km, then wait 9.5 hrs then 7.5km.
@@pagophilus
Probably still does it...
my old diesel takes 5km to reach operating temp so....
Your ideas are always fresh and original. Thank you for the inspiration.🐥🙏🎓
! ALERT ! roBOT ! ALERT !
My 09 X5 35d showed the dreaded DPF light at 130k miles. Dealer of course had a $9000 remedy....REPLACE!. Did a bit of searching and eventually had it cleaned for about 900 Euros in the NL. Could have had it done in the USA but the car was already getting ready for a year long tour of Europe, so I had it done back home. Never had the DPF problem again. EGR cooler broke for the fifth time, MAP sensor went bad, NOx sensors died, active tank again a problem, decided to clean the intake manifold as it was filled with gunk, these things were a bundle of fun! DPF should be possible to clean in most cases without any issues. .
33 year old JDM grey import still going strong.
Have a fine stainless steel mesh sock over the end of the exhaust pipe to catch the flaming carbon particles before they set the dry grass on fire while 4wding...
It's amazing how much carbon accumulates in that sock when you give it a blow out on the highway after a couple of weeks round town....
No need to worry as the blast of exhaust plus the vibrations from the turbo 4 cylinder bust up the clumps and sift them onto the road surface over time.
Usually the first acceleration event overtaking another vehicle will completely smoke screen the road and cause the person being overtaken to slam on their brakes...thinking that the old dunger is going to drop it's guts all over the road....which makes it a breeze to overtake with an old diesel.
Every 160k kms I take the intake manifold off and use wooden tongue depressors to dig out the carbon and oil crap caused by the EGR .....
"Open wide and say "AAAAAAAAGH"....
Compression test we /dry then injectors on car spec check via scan tool plus bench test. Look fo r spray pattern ,volume , leak test ,, bypass return to tank test , resistance test . Plus more . Cycle thru cleaner 3x reassess . Fuel pump via scan tool psi check .
10 year old Diesel ute in the driveway and bought it because its a pre dpf. I could buy a new 70+ vehicle to keep up with the Joneses. But managing the maintenance of diesel vehicles for a job I will stick with what i got.
I just purchased a new ute and only had 1 option the Hilux workmate with the 2.7 petrol would love to get it in a 4x4 but having the petrol engine was my main priority to avoid the dpf and other emissions systems they attach to a moden diesel
i was in the same boat as you in 2022 i brought a single cab petrol trition and have been very happy with it i can't stand diesels the way they sound the smell the way they drive turbo lag narrow power band
With the DPF in a Captiva...put something on the accelerator and sit it at somewhere between 2,000 to 2,500 rpm in neutral for half an hour until it would make it go away...didn't really care about what happened after because I wouldn't sell one of those to anyone who deserved it... only customers who wouldn't believe me that I would rather not sell them that car than have it on my conscience than selling one, unless the customer was deserving of one.
I've had 3 DPF cleans in the UK, at £300 a go. Volvo and Mercedes.
In my experience driving medium duty diesels in Canada, the 2 most notorious things to kill the DPF (and DOC) are burning oil and/or coolant. Overfueling is bad, but the fuel is designed to burn. Oil and coolant are not. They are twofold problems as well. Not only do they not combust properly in normal cyclr or regen, but they also leave sticky residue that other soot glombs onto. If they do burn (which they always slightly do) they create different ash.... and the ash plus the sticky residue of non fuel combustion... well, it's not rocket surgery.
Monitor fluid consumption. If your losing oil or coolant, or using way more def/adblu than usual, figure out why!
Pajero’s with the 4M41 have had DPF’s since 2006/2007… plagued with issues most definitely. But there’s plenty of models that have had emissions controls EGR, DPF etc much earlier than 2014
Owned an NS Pajero.The DP was a pita. They dropped them after the NT then bought them back.
@@Lazy_Tim I have Pajero 2009 NT I think it is MY10 model and it seems it doesn't have DPF. I own this car from 2013. It was having 109k when I bought and now it is 220k. I also bought 2008 Kia Sorento and it definteily doesn't have DPF. I was thinking get rid of Kia but now I think it is good car.
@@alexk6745 Is it a manual? I know they dropped it around then but no manuals had them until 2014/15.
@@Lazy_Tim No it is auto 3.2l Diesel GLX
my brothers Pajero is 2015 no DPF on it in Australia
Driving any vehicle made since oh 2006 or so is groundhog day fixing the numerous electronic features
Our 2019 Triton’s CPF light came on last week. It’s got just over 80,000km. Luckily it’s on a novated lease
Euro 2014 VW passat TDI, had it since new, covered 135,000M UK. Well maintained. The whole time owning the vehicle, occasionally the DPF light will come on signifying a regen is necessary. The car regens, the light goes off. At 120M the vehicle had a major service including new glow plugs, as 2 were reported faulty. The car still appears healthy and drives great.
My questions: Is this normal, should I be concerned about regens and how long can a DPF last under this type of service before failing?
I remember that the DPF (which had previously been removed) of my VW 2.0 Diesel was burned free in a german VW workshop using a welding burner. That lasted for a long time.
Hey my dingo effluent creek transport vehicle is over 15yrs old now, i just dont see a need to buy new vehicles every few years.
For me, on an 2019 Volvo on 100000 miles, changing the AdBlue fixed the DPF light. Just put better quallity AdBlue.
my thermostat for the water system made my dpf block, fixed thermostat then done a regen the smoke was very bad for 2 regens then dpf fix ive done 150,000 miles since the thermostat replaced and still going strong
proper mantaince every 10,000 miles as my van done 300,000 miles and its a 2015 transit jumbo xxlwb
Cold engine being over fuelled because the computer thought it was "getting started on a cold morning".....
@paulharrison8114
3 hours ago
I had the DPF light come up on my 2011 Peugeot 4007 earlier this year. Peugeot dealer couldn’t find the problem. Local independent mechanic couldn’t find the problem. I tried to clean the DPF twice as my scanner indicated it was 120% full. Problem not solved.
Diesel specialist had a look and diagnosed the thermostat had failed and was jammed fully open. This meant the temperature never reached the threshold of 65c to initiate a burn. Replaced the thermostat, problem solved.
And that’s why the last of the petrol v6 Tritons and Hiluxes are going up in value
I had a DPF light go on, the mechanic did a manual burn to clean it, the DPF light came on again and the mechanic had Know Idea why. I changed mechanic and took it to Robson Brothers 4WD Service & Repair in WA, they found the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor was stuffed. They replaced the sensor did another DPF burn and changed the oil. Now happy days.
2008 santa fe, 2.2 diesel.
I took my exhaust apart, sprayed it internally with degreaser and let it sit, then power washed it one way then the other until it ran clear,
8:23 hit the nail on the head there.
Before you get a mechanic to do anything involving dpf, check your intercooler hoses. A pin prick hole in the intercooler hoses, can cause dpf light to come on.
Peugeot had DPFs on Australian roads back in 2004.
You are right about upskilling in the automotive industry BUT I cost a good bit more than an "old school spanner turner"
I am a computer technician, and electromechanical specialist willing to work in dirty, dangerous, uncomfortable conditions with tools I purchase myself
Yup it does cost 150/hr for my time (and it's about to increase again)
John, there are many causes for DPFs getting "clogged". These can range from any part of the fuelling or exhaust system failing, including sensors to not enough miles driven to allow proper regeneration events. In some cases not resetting the oil when servicing may be the root cause. If some soot is left in the system for long enough, this can harden and become ash over time. Forcing a regen with a clogged DPF may cause it to fail completely. Regular maintenance and a mechanic who understands the system should keep things under control.
The situation kind of highlights ‘who’s can you trust to work on your car. I have a prado (waiting for the outcome of Toyota class action) but I’m thinking a holiday Berrima might be in order and let Berrima Diesel look at it. But the question still remains, how do you pick a mechanic?
I have been having dpf issues too. Been to clean the dpf multiple times. Now I know I have to get some real specialist to find the real problem.
I seriousely considered remove the bloody thing, but other than it is illegal, it is also something the insurance company will look for if anything happens. It is simply not worth the risk.
DPF and DEF are major pains in the buttocks. Also, props to a blue collar worker using proper English.
You're inserting them wrong...
@@AutoExpertJCHow can one insert anything in one's buttocks?
@@AutoExpertJC Use SX90
@@AutoExpertJC Is outdated DEF an issue?
@@AutoExpertJC Perhaps. Maybe I need to find a better lubricant.
Amarok had a DPF in 2011. That’s 13 years. Their DPF was reasonably reliable, in the 4 pot.
My 2014 Amarok has done 195,000klms and is on the 4th DPF. The firs one failed whilst it was still under warranty and the stealership replaced it. I need to drive it like I stole it to make sure I don't have to replace this one.
11-year-old Triton no DPF doesn't miss a beat.
What year did the Triton get a DPF?
@@Lazy_Tim 2015 I believe
@@DarylHancock Cheers mate.
2015 Challenger, no DPF.
That's exactly the reason that I drive an old diesel. No Adblue, no dpf, no problem...easy
Subaru Forester diesel with pdf was on sale in about 2010.
My 2014 Fiesta was continuously attempting to regenerate the DPF, but failing. It ran like a dying dog most of the time anyway (I just assumed this was because the PSA 1.6 diesel is rubbish to begin with - it's certainly inferior to Renault's 1.5) with shorter and shorter intervals between such attempts (when it would go into limp mode), until I lost patience and bit the bullet. A local garage advised going to a specialist firm and the specialist firm said that the DPF internals had collapsed due to oil blow-by. They also said that the DPF was an absolute curse and that 100% of their diagnostic business was DPF-related - they never had a problematic pre-DPF vehicle through their doors. They basically cleaned out the whole system, reconditioned the turbo and deleted the DPF internals - at a cost of one arm and one leg (call it $2.5k in Aussie money). When I queried the deletion, their reply was that the catalyst does 90+% of the emissions control and that the DPF is just extra icing on the cake (ie all but pointless) - and all I can say is that the car has since passed three UK MoT emissions tests with flying colours.
I have a 7 year old Mitsubishi Outlander with a similar diesel engine to John's Triton. They're notorious for blowing the main turbo hose which leads to blocking the dpf. Once this happens the engine light comes on and welcome to limp mode. Genuine turbo hose with the inbuilt weakness is $700. Non genuine higher quality is $160. A good quality dpf treatment helps clean the dpf and being able to get rid of the engine light and initiate a burn off cured the problem. There's always a symptom to the dpf failing. My car lives on the highway and had never had a dpf issue until 140000klm, my driving is text book perfect for a modern diesel, mainly long hot runs, no short trips. Just need to be aware of the dpf potential weakness.
cost effective maintenance have a product that works well with DPF issues. cleans it as you drive.
Pro tip. Navaras '15-'24 come with inlet air plumbing defects from factory. (Hot Pipe gasket)
I saw many people switch off engine during regensration, or never take the car on longer trip with high power. So many times is problem in driving style.
exchange is last resort after diagnistic, regeneration trough diagnistic, which will clean and also show what is eventually the problem.