I BOUGHT A NEW HYUNDAI SONATA IN 2018, I HAVE USED THIS PRODUCT EVERY 6 THOUSANDS MILES, MY 2.0 LITRE TURBO, RUNS LIKE THE DAY I BOUGHT IT, AWESOME PRODUCT
Agreed. I have a 2015 Optima w the Turbo. Though I only drive about 8000 miles a year I still change the oil every 3-4 months. I note after 3 months the engine gets louder and labors more. The car runs better on very clean oil
I used this as preventative maintenance on my Kia Soul, then I lost a lot of power. It turns out that my catalytic converter was clogged up, probably from the carbon that was dislodged from the valves. So, yeah it cleans the carbon off the valves, but it can result in expensive repairs to your exhaust system. That $15 can of magic cost me $1500 at the Kia dealership.
sibco96 The pieces of carbon that could have been in your cylinders would never have been large enough to clog your catalytic converter, especially mixed with solvent. Your converter failed because it fails on Souls, but if it had under 80k miles, it should have been under warranty. www.kiasoulforums.com/threads/premature-catalytic-converter-failure.113603/
@@Hutchy86 I'm trying to remember. One time I took it to the Kia dealer and of course the suggestion was an expensive catalytic converter replacement. I went to a muffler shop to get it done instead. This happened twice, then I got rid of the car. No more Kias or Hyundais for me.
I have the dreaded 2.4 theta 2 engine, I recently switched from always using full synthetic that's recommended to using mobil conventional 5w30. I no longer have to add half a quart every week and it runs quieter.
My old man needed to buy a new car a few years ago, and he was looking at a Subaru Forester SUV (GDI Engine), I've convinced him to buy a RAV 4 for that reason : port and direct injection, more HP, faster warmup, better gas economy, better transmission 8 speed, no lag CVT like all Subaru's now
@@mirceamunteanu4791 Only thing Subaru is better than Toyota is AWD they do have the best AWD, but that is it. That Rav 4 will last him the rest of his life if he stays on top of the service.
I agree, I did install a JLT catch can last Tuesday at or around 12,000 miles....I think I might buy the jlt 3 oz extension can for my 2019 after I check the JLT after 3000 miles to see what Will be in the can.
@@psychopenguin3821 not sure how they would freeze up, there is a lot of heat passing through that can. Plus oil is what is mostly being caught and it shouldn't freeze up..
you all prolly dont care at all but does anyone know of a trick to get back into an instagram account? I stupidly lost the login password. I would love any tricks you can offer me
2014 Kia Rio 1.6L GDI even after using Seafoam regularly, 3500 mi oil changes, top tier fuel, valves get buildup where it impedes the complete closing of valves which allows oil to go through manifold to catalytic converter causing clog and heat damage. No recall on Rio , just Soul at this time but class action lawsuit filed in Federal Court in April 2022 against Kia Motors...Look at Kia excessive oil consumption.
0:51 "GDI can provide improved MPG" 1:02 "Carbon deposits from GDI will lower MPG" In reality, GDI cars don't get better gas mileage than port fuel injected cars, but require burning gnarly chemicals to clean the engine. That's way worse for the environment than a normal port fuel injected engine. I'm sure this is the government's doing. Whenever the government tries to save the environment, it creates more pollution. Oh, and people aren't going to maintain their cars 5x as much, so now cars go to the junkyard sooner too. GDI is stupid. The cleaner stuff in the video is pretty cool though. I've cleaned carburetors and fuel injectors (out of the car so I know it worked) with GDI cleaner and it seems to be more potent than carburetor cleaner.
Using Pennzoil ultra platinum 5w20 and a bottle of Chevron Techron Complete, plus good gasoline will go a long way to help. My wife ❤ her 2014 Optima, and only has 22k on it. We are currently on vacation and we have driven over 1200 mi to get here, 75-80 mph while getting 38mpg. I've seen many of these vehicles over 150k miles. I've done a lot of research on the GDI 2014 OPTIMA, best i can tell is try to keep carbon build up at a minimum. And make sure the VIN number does not begin with a 3, these vehicles were assembled in Mexico and have proven to be very problematic. The Pennzoil ultra platinum and Chevron Techron Complete are great products, as is CRC intake and turbo cleaner. I hope my very limited knowledge has helped at least 1 person 😂.
Using the same oil in the wife's 2015 Hyundia Santa Fe along with injection and valve cleaner / fuel system cleaner on a somewhat regular basis. Pretty sure it's the only thing keeping that motor alive (2.4L). Will try this in the near future. I dont like how the oil looks like diesel oil even though it's changed like clockwork. Not only that but its using oil now also which sucks considering very good oil is used
My 2015 Kia forte five First three Vin letters are KNF ………… I’ve been running now shell premium, Pennzoil, high mileage, platinum and had the injectors had to be rebuilt over a year and a half ago because it was almost catastrophic and my car runs smooth now mechanic told me to put in premium gas and I have been for months and months, but haven’t done the CRC cleaner as represented in this video I think the technicians did it on my car probably a couple years ago. I’m afraid to do it with over 161,000 miles and it’s running pretty good. I don’t wanna make a mess out of this and have carbon or pieces of material causing issue that break free.
Mercury Marine yes the Boat Company has a similar product called "Power Tune" about 10 bucks at your dealer. I use the stuff everyday it also works great as a carb cleaner FSM cleaner I've had it get fuel pumps to working again. Had it bring compression up by removing carbon. Love it and swear by it.
If you have a GDI engine, never let the vehicle just sit and idle for long periods of time. This is when most of the deposits occur. When in the drive through shut the engine off, waiting for friends you pick up ect. Another thing that helps is being a little heavy on the gas in first and second, and a good spirited highway drive at least once a week. These are the tips I have read about that seem to make the most sense.
But for turbocharged GDI cars after driving hard you can't just shut the car down right away you may end up damaging the turbo (turbo timers actually leave your car running after even shutting it down, of course that is if you were just driving it hard) so this only applies to naturally aspirated GDI cars.
@@raulferro3998 I agree 100%. I only own naturally aspirated vehicles so I was not referring to them, thanks for the extra info. Come to think of it I never owned a turbo car before, something I must put on my to do list.
Most modern turbos are cooled by oil and coolant so you dont have to sit and let it cool down.Its says in the owners manual only if your running hard on the interstate then say you pull into a rest area then you should give it a min or two before shutting down @@raulferro3998
So I used this today on my 2015 KIA Forte EX GDI. I made sure not to spray it into the MAF sensor, I couldn’t find it anywhere so I proceeded as normal. Turns out there’s not one on my model. So I sprayed it into where it shows on the video, the air duct where the air filter goes. I had my buddy keep the motor revved up to 2,000-3,000 RPM. Everything went okay, so I went to go get on the freeway for 10 minutes as instructed in the video, which was only a 2 minute drive away, as I got up to 35, the engine rattled real bad and a BUNCH of white smoke came out the back. It rattled once more as I got on the freeway, but not nearly as bad, and not as much white smoke the second time. Later in the day I did notice more power to the gas pedal, and higher MPG as indicated on the dash. Engine appears to be running normal. No check engine lights or anything. Is the engine rattle that happened normal? This is the first time I’ve ever done it after finding this video. Engine has 151k miles on it.
Make sure you take the car to the dealer and have the recall taken care of. (Knock sensor) That's a HUGE deal that can cost $7000 if you don''t have it done. Avoid driving the car unless you have it done. It will add a warranty to your engine. Make sure your oil is full and keep it clean with good synthetic oil. Ignore what you hear and change it every 3000 miles. I have 440,000 miles on the same engine. You want high miles? Do as I say.
Could this cleaner cause large chunks of carbon to break off and damage the turbo and other components like catalytic converter ? I have run my car now for 20k miles since brand new without gdi cleaners and worried about using it now at this stage.
The video said carbon build up could get so bad that chunks could eventually fall off and damage catalytic converter. However I noticed that once he mentioned valve cleaner product, he said the cleaner is safe for everything. I’ll make my own assumption and say yea this stuff is safe and won’t damage any part of the vehicle
Well my 2013 F150 Ecoboost has 130k miles on it fitted with a GDI engine and never cleaned the valves. I tried it, and my warm idle went from 1200 RPMs to 600 RPMs. Great results! I gained 3 miles on Fuel Economy and its getting better.
As concerned as I was what with my Cat being destroyed as well as a chunk of carbon flinging off to my Turbos and destroying it, I emailed them directly about my concerns. They said that the product is meant to melt away the carbon build up layer by layer and the natural movement of the engine and the heat combined, makes it easier for the carbon deposits to break apart.
"Safely dissolves carbon in a controlled manner that prevents large pieces from dislodging in the engine." is their statement. This is better than large lumps of carbon breaking off and ending up in your catalytic converter. Everyone says...use the can until empty. BUT I think a better strategy for a large mileage GDI engine that would have a ton of carbon build up, would be to approach it gradually. I would be doing a quarter can or less once a weak until two cans used. Just gradually remove the carbon build up. I wouldn't want a flood of carbon through the converters and oxygen sensors all at once. Doing it bit by bit might be safer for those components. That will be my strategy.
I have thought you could remove a good catalytic converter and replace it with one that has the center already torn out. Drive it like that for 2 weeks and it will collect any of the junk in it. Then swap the good one back again. Saves taking intake pipes off every week for 8 weeks.
I could see this working as preventative maintenance. If you’ve got 150k you’re just going to send carbon through your engine and cat and cause damage. Maybe if you start at 10k and hit it every 10k you might remove the small stuff before it becomes an issue.
Yeah, I am sure this will squeaky clean out all the intake valves on your Tesla 3.0 gas engine. You are guaranteed to get rid of all the fuel efficiency issues. :-)
The Mazda GDI seems less filthy than other brands. See the Project Farm UA-cam videos- he found that adding Berryman B-12 Chemtool to the gas tank once in awhile and Restore to the engine oil (if the piston rings have a lot of wear) help reduce problems from carbon buildup. A 10 hour drive at 70 mph on a hot day might help, especially for diesel engines. I would like to see a comparison test for different cleaner brands by someone independent, instead of marketing for 1 brand.
Jeff Ruebens Adding anything to fuel or oil won’t alleviate the problem as the fuel never gets to the top of the pistons. Fuel has plenty of detergents added to it already. That’s why port injection systems don’t have this issue. In those, the fuel is sprayed onto the top of the pistons and the detergents clean off the deposits before they’re burnt onto the metal. You’re confusing combustion chamber deposits with the piston head deposits that plague DI engines. No product helps piston head carbon build-up in any significant way. Only periodic walnut blasting cleans it.
Were any tests done for potential piston rings / cylinder wall wear from all this carbon entering the combustion chamber all at once? I imagine it's like sand particles that will scratch the walls and cause eventual engine damage
Sorry for the delay in responding to your question. For the best information on this, you will want to contact the CRC Industries Tech Line: 800-521-3168
I have a Hyundai GDI engine thats done 120k miles. No issues - Still 0-60 in 8s and just under 40mpg. So its simply not true that all GDI's suffer from this issue..
I have a question. I am using a top tier 91% gas and 100% synthetic oil. When there is noticeable carbon buildup on the tailpipes; Does this means the carbon is building on the intake valves too or is the engine is getting rid of that buildup and exiting it out the tailpipes and out of the system??? Thank you Gary (2017 WRX Limited).
It will depend on the vehicle. You can't go by the tailpipe. Turbos will never lose the soot because of how quickly the air fuel ratio is changing constantly, for example. If you have a GDI engine the valves will experience carbon build up. It's best to periodically clean them.
Know Your Parts rofl, you know nothing about cars except what's said in your training video, the wrx with their new direct injection 2.0 liter will have the same problems that all the other direct injection vehicles have. This product is snake oil, and has been proven, pull the intake, take pics, use product as instruction says, remove intake again and compare. I love how all snake oil adds say at least a dozen times how it works we swear, these pics are proof, yet 0 garrenty. Why no garrenty if it works so well? Because it doesnt.
I'd agree however its "guarantee not garrenty" yes these sprays are useless... as don't forget they'd be on the valves for a millionth of a second ….. spraying the solution onto a stationary object & watch the oil being baked/removed by the solution is a totally different effect to using it via the intake tracked.... anyone with sense would just remove the intake manifold & clean the valves & chamber themselves.. I've just done my N14 turbo mini & I've used carb cleaner & fuel (fuel as I used a lot less to remove the oil build-up... YES its bloody NOT carbon) I've said else where on utube.. I'd pay to see anyone remove the intake video it, refit it & start the car & spray this or anything else said to clean the intake valves & then remove the intake again... I'll guarantee no-one would ever do so.. as it would clearly show as you've mentioned its a waste of money!!
CRC Valve Cleaner is the solution but don't follow instructions on can. 2017 Sonata new got 32mpg combined. At 25K now gets 26mpg combined. After cleaning, returned to 32mpg and sets you back into the seat @ WOT, so it works. Bring car to operating temp., spray intake (down flow from any MAF) with full spray at 2500rpm. Engine will choke down and almost die, turn off at this point. Let heat soak for 1 hour. Start and drive for a couple miles and repeat twice (3 times total). Engine will crank longer before starting and will rattle and ping first mile of first cleaning. This method only uses 1/3 can for all three heat soaks. The initial pinging proves that carbon was breaking away after each heat soak. No codes set and 5K mile later (30K). Blow-by from crankcase increases with each acceleration and that is why highway use delays carbon buildup. I am a lead foot with WOT used frequently. I will do one heat soak every oil change from now on. GDI problem handled.
Thank you for your comment and support of CRC GDI IVD Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner. We recommend to perform short 1 second bursts until the can is completely empty. 1 can per vehicle treatment, regardless of engine size. Heavy spray rates especially in 4 cylinder vehicles will cause pooling of the product. Pooling of the product could lead to pinging or knocking since extra combustible material is in the cylinder and not accounted for by the ECM. If you have further questions please reach out to Scott at Technical Support 1.800.521.3168
I have a 2016 and the gdi motors and cvt trannys are trash. You need to run sea foam through the intake system ( because gdi doesn't inject gas through the intake like most cars , so they get higher compression ) and take the intake boot off and spray behind the mass air flow sensor. Put boot back on. Rev to 2k rpms and hold it there while someone sprays the sea foam in . After can is empty, turn off car and let hot soak for 15 min. Then start it up, Rev it, drive about 10 min. If smoke doesn't appear right away don't worry it will ( especially in these trash motors , I've done 2 sea foam sprays already and may need a 3rd ) . If no smoke comes out, pull over and turn the car off for 5 min . Start process over again and if you have triptronic where you can control the gears then really get on it 1- 4th gear . Blow all that crap out of your motor. These engines do burn gas esp while using sea foam. Get an oil change shortly after. Smart thing would to be add the liquid kind to the motor and fuel system and drive 100-200 miles and then definitely get an oil change. God bless 🙌 🙏
1. Toyota uses dual injection in their D4s that solve problem in its very beginning. 2. You forgot about EGR system that is one of three legs of carbon built-up: PCV crank ventilation system+EGR+GDI. All these three are making the problem real.
Can you please say honestly how Hyundai Palisade v6 gdi engine is? Is this very good quality v6 engine? Will this engine run 500k to 600k km? I want to know because I have a confusion to choose from Hyundai Palisade V6, Volkswagen Atlas sel V6, and Honda Pilot Elite V6, please give me the right information because I want to choose a V6 car which will run perfectly 500k to 600k km without any big issues...
Using a high-quality engine oil from one of the big-name brands and changing your oil yourself at 4k miles will save you a lot of headaches later. And put a high-quality fuel injector cleaner in your gas tank every month or so to keep your high-pressure injectors cleaned and spraying the right pattern The better engine oils don't allow the oil to vaporize as much so that helps in reducing carbon build up
@@richardgolden3364 it doesn't matter in what temperature, cleaner doesn't work if carbon already caked up on the valve, even if we use screwdriver or sharp objects it still need a little bit effort scarp them off.
Diesel’s have their own build up issues separate from GDI engines. Even though fuel injection is the same, fuel being sprayed directly into the cylinder. Diesel engines use CCV systems instead of the GDI engines using PCV systems.
@@Knowyourparts so does diesel cars still need to this but with some other products that works with diesel engine? Cause in the video it said only for gasoline engines.....
GDI is right DOWN there with Throttle by Wire!: My newest (2004) Honda has a conventional throttle body with cable. Even when the proper Hondata software was applied to my 2007 Civic Si Coupe, there was still appreciable Rev Hang left. This prevented easily matching the engine flywheel rpm to the transmission rpm, causing large shift delays and loss of horsepower-John in Texas
bigliftm -- exactly. I'm wondering about long term cylinder wall wear from all this carbon being burned up in large quantities. It's like dumping sand particles into the intake. The piston rings and cylinder walls will take a beating.
I'm wondering would I be able to do this myself? Is it a DIY sort of fix? Because if so I could simply run to the auto supply store, pick this stuff up and spray away.
There’s no need to buy a direct injection engine. It needs so much more maintenance and costs reducing reliability. You’ll find those cars are being traded in on used car lots with only 30,000 miles.
Many vehicles these days with only GDI engines. If you want a car without GDI it severely limits your selection. I have a Cadillac with GDI and twin overhead variable camshaft timing. It requires little extra maintenance. I get the valve cleaning service done about every 20K miles. No other special mtce. The oil change interval is determined by the ECU, I usually get it changed 1x/year, when it says I have about 25% oil life remaining. Spark plugs should last 100K miles, I still have the original plugs. Car has about 80K miles & runs fine. No other engine was available. My wife has a 2018 Focus with a 2.0-liter FFV (up to 85% ethanol) I-4 direct injection engine. It wasn't badged or advertised as being GDI. I wouldn't have known without reading the manual. Car makers don't make a big deal about GDI any longer. The Focus has had only oil & filter changes since new. Absolutely no additional mtce due to being GDI. It gets 30+ MPG. No other engine was available.
If it was such a “massive problem” why are so many vehicles moving to GDI? Keep up on your maintenance, use non cheap gas, and drive your vehicle. I think people are making this a bigger deal than it is. Not saying it’s not a problem, but I seriously think it’s hyped up.
Try the Italian method. Before oil change, fill the tank with the cleanest and best gas you can get. Add an additive for that method if you want. Then run on high load and high rpm so the engine heats up really well. This will burn the carbon on the valves and everywhere and there you go
At least try to understand the basics before giving advice. DIRECT INJECTION means the fuel type and any additive BS will not touch the valves and have exactly 0% chance of working.
@@BoogieDownProduction so what? The engine and intake valves get heated up by that method. Try to understand simple physics before trying to correct a stranger in the Internet
@@kazn10 You're dumb. If you have ever actually manually cleaned valves you would know why just heating them up will do very little if anything. And you're right I did correct you because you were ignorantly blabbering about "best gas you can get" and "additive" as if that would do anything, like holy shit its a direct injection engine how do you not understand something so basic? The video even explained what a DI engine was all you had to do was watch the video.
@@BoogieDownProduction alright. Seems like you're dumb, too if you can't understand simple PHYSICS and how engines work especially with poor gas quality. I don't know where you live or work, but there are additives which factually clean the engine. I'm not sure if these technologies are approved in your country. Heating the engine up can make the carbon deposits burn away. It definitely depends on the engine itself. It CAN burn the deposits away if the components get hot enough. If they get hotter than 290°C carbon has no surface to stick on.. That's all from my side
My question is this…. Did the manufacturers of DI engines know about this before flooding the market with them and just didn’t care because their greedy AF? Or did they truly just brain fart and skipped the research and development process. 🤔
Technology is almost always more advanced than what they give us, They have to put Technology out in "phases" by doing it this way they have future "solutions" to problem they where awair of prior. This keeps consumer's consuming.
I can learn how to replace the turbo's myself with only a few tools, a $1k project, vs spending thousands to have a skilled mechanic rip my engine apart to replace the valves. But, I noticed a lot of comments here that state this product doesn't work so I will need to learn how to clean the valves myself.
@@Hiker_Mike you are right you could replace it yourself. You can replace anything in your car yourself if you have the resources. Yeah I'd have to agree with the others. I've seen before/after pics and it doesn't really make much of a difference. The only real way to clean the valves is to take it to a shop and have them walnut shell blasted
Alex, I like this video, seems like a more reliable way to clean the valves w/o causing potential secondary problems with debris. ua-cam.com/video/Kn6NVHLy-Xc/v-deo.html
I read elsewhere that an oil change is required after treatment because the crap that it removes from the valves gets into the oil. I can't remember where I read it. But I DID read it and that's what I will do after a few hundred miles after using this stuff
Fuel injector cleaner used every 4th tank of fuel will keep any type of injectors clean Inc GDI. With higher compressions and low tension rings in a GDI engine, blow by can be a problem with carbon sticking the rings. Oil changes at half the normal intervals can help prevent this and along with an oil flush additive will keep internals clean. After the old oil is drained, refill with 2 litres of oil & 1 litre of diesel. Run the engine at idle for 10 mins and drain. Doing this at ev ery oil change will keep the internals spotless and rid the engine and sump pan of any sludge build up. Refill with a premium quality oil and filter.
Diesel washes cylinder walls, malfuntionjng diesel injectors washing cylinder walls is a calamity...how can you run an engine with diesel diluting the oil?
@@RICK-uf1jj you're only running the engine at idle with no load for a max of 10 minutes while the engine is being cleaned internally Does far more good than harm..
You will ALWAYS get carbon build up in Direct Injection (only) engines, period. However, not all build up are equal. -- Thin, dry, sooty, build up -- which are usually mild and will not make a tangible impact on airflow is from valve overlap at lower rpms causing some of the exhaust products to back up into the intake before being sucked back down into the cylinders. If that is all you have, I won't bother to clean it. Dry soot, you see, doesn't really stick! -- Thick, cruddy, oily build up is from OIL in the PCV valve and/or leaky turbo seals. Cleaning it is not really a fix. I guarantee it'll return in 30,000~40,000 miles. Not much you can do about a leaky turbo -- time to replace it or sell the car. But you can install an oil catch can in the PCV system to cut down on 90% of the oil getting to the intakes. You can also use an oil that doesn't evaporate as much and does not cause as much oil vapor to go through the PCV system. In general, use a good synthetic that DOES NOT have a wide viscosity range. In general, the 0W-40 is going to evaporate more than the the 10W30 or 5W20. If you want to be sure look up the evaporation loss numbers for that specific oil.
In the 1950's and 60's American made cars had a 'dump tube'... allowing the bottom of the crank case to 'vent' to atmosphere. By adding a PCV and "VACUUM" to that system, you are effective creating a 'mist' from the oil in your engine... That misted oil then is introduced to your engine, intake. The bottom end of your crank case only produces about 2 pounds of pressure... Your vacuum system produces up to 10-15 pounds at times... So.. you're 'sucking 6-8 times the volume of what is necessary to simply "VENT" your lower crank case. Plug, by pass your PCV system and just leave a 'vent' tube for your lower crank case to equalize that pressure.
You really don't know physics. Comparing the pressures does not produce direct to volume conversions. Several other parameters need to be factored. And the crankcase has pressure, but the intake manifold is under vacuum from the engine. But that amount of vacuum can vary greatly depending on engine design & throttle position. My Cadillac CTS with a GDI engine produce so little vacuum, that it has an electric auxiliary vacuum pump. This electric pump does not pull vacuum in the intake manifold or engine. It is to increase vacuum for the power brake booster and devices that use vacuum such as HVAC. There are check valves so the electric pump does not affect the engine performance. Moreover, cars in the 50s & 60s had carburetors - you really want to go back to those?
@@RichardFallstich Im not going back to carbs, I am simply 'equalizing' the pressure between the bottom of the engine and atmospheric pressure, NOT drawing a 'vacuum' creating more problems.
It's better to let the engines' normal operation distribute the cleaner. If it doesn't clean everything sufficiently, do an oil change and another clean.
You "can" remove the manifold, but it will be hot as the product instructions say to fully warm up engine first. Also, the engine must be running to use this. The engine probably won't run well, or at all, without the manifold in place.
I have ran diesel engines for over 40 years & they have GDI ,but didn't have these issues,modern engines with blow bx being injected into the inlet combustion system , oil type & changes & proper fuel grades will help:but disassembly & walnut blasting will eventually be required,these additives help but are not the total answer, we use the CRC additives for the initial hand cleaning before the blasting! these sprays used while running can damage the turbo internals ;only qualified mechanical personnel should use these procedures!!!!
Large carbon break offs will damage the catalytic converter, therefore, it's a good idea to remove a good catalytic converter and install a bad one, run it for a while, then reinstall a good catalytic converter.
Appreciate another great product but we have avoided these issues by avoiding vehicles with GDI engines. 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 2013 FIAT Abarth, and an old SAAB. All are port injected. FCA seems slow to adopt GDI thank goodness.
You may be right. The SAAB has 250k miles on it. Had front wheel bearing fail, light bulbs, water pumps seem weak now that they are China made. Needs new subframe bushings. Jeep GC, had a TIPM recall. Other failure was brake light bulbs burnt out. FIAT Abarth, 44k miles. 2 of the radio buttons are peeling. Replaced a part on cylinder head as a performance upgrade. Never had a car that is so much fun to drive and own. (FIAT).
Wait I don't understand... in the beginning of the video, it says pieces of carbon falling through the valve and eventually making its way into the cat and will burn a hole in the cat. But it also seems like this is exactly what this product makes work.
They keep saying carbon when it’s actually oil vapors from you PCV system and EGC valve. It forms more of a tar then what you think of like a “charcoal” like substance which cakes the exhaust valves. And this is the best valve cleaner out there. Did better then seafoam and Lucas in my 5.7L Tundra, and it’s port injected.
How healthy is this product for the environment? Does the use of this product spew carcinogenes into the air? Any studies on what's coming out of the exhaust during the the treatment?
Michael Cline The BEST solution yet!💯 You could also buy a car that is Direct AND Port injection (Direct port injection) To get the best of both worlds.👍🏻
Yeah but that would limit your options to just the BRZ, 86, 2018 Camry, and 2019 Corolla. Not everyone wants those particular cars. The BRZ and 86 are too expensive to own (insurance and low fuel economy). The Camry is a bit too expensive for some people. The Corolla looks nice but we still don't know how good it really is yet (its brand new).
if these solutions are so good why isn't there a direct injection system made to inject this solution (or others) to clean the valves whislt the vehicle is in use... further more, why cant fuel manufacturers sell cleaning fluids similar to those agents within petrol that originally cleaned the valves to start with.. we see cars being fitted with water injection from the factories (bmw, Porsche etc etc) why cant manufacturers do so with cleaning agents on GDI engines......
If carbon build up in GDI engines couldn't be prevented, then all GDI engines must've got a certain amount of carbon build up after a certain milage, but that's not what's happening. There's a video of a guy on YT doing 250k on his Hyundai GDI and not having any engine problems. He changed the oil on recommended intervals and added a bottle of fuel additive to a full tank of gas after each oil change , that's all. GDI engines have been around since mid 90's and if they were vastly problematic, they'd have been discontinued by now
Sorry to hear that my Kia GDI with 225,000 is junk. If it or my wife's car with 115000 craps out tomorrow they'd still be the best cars I've ever bought. By the way I've had multiple Ford's GM's Honda Audi Volkswagen Datsun Nissan Mazda. All were junk by comparison.
You need a 10 mm scope cam and some minor tools once you remove the intake manifold. Some vehicles will be harder to clean as the bore is deeper. To pickup the loose bits that your take out manually you need a shop vac with a hose that goes into the intake port. I takes time but yes you can call it the deposits, we just did it to a GM traverse with 150,000 km and it was nasty very nasty. This product is a scam and the deposits still need to be vacuumed out. This product was returned 1 hour after being used as it did not do squat.
i have the hyundai sonata 2.0t 2017 but I'm not sure where to spray it... because I couldn't find the MAF anywhere... is it safe to spray it through MAP? can anyone can help me please?
Is possible your hyndai doesn't have maf only map.if you can't find it on the air intake snorkel betwen air filter and throttle body it means you don't have maf.
The CRC product is formulated specifically for gasoline engines. Diesel engines form carbon on other areas, not as much on intake valves when compared to GDI so we recommend a fuel additive for diesel engines with carbon buildup. CRC 1-TANK for Diesel is a great option: www.crcindustries.com/products/diesel-1-tank-power-renew-174-15-fl-oz-05816.html
Most likely it may cause a few more contaminants in the oil. Not a major issue usually, but it's just an extra safety step. In the past when running any cleaner I would do it like a week before an oil change.
Crc intake cleaner works yes no doubt! But remember friends it doesnt work like bringing the old carbon gunky valve into brand new valve to its genuine life when you once bought a brand new car with 0 miles on it. The only best possible solution to bring old valves into genuine shiny valves life is to use a ground wallnut shells soft abrasive blasting. Trust me on this one. All the world chemicals they might invent but nothing can be purely cleaned with chemicals as compare to manual wallnut shells blasting.
When you watch a ChrisFix and Scotty Kilmer video... you go to the source for one final confirmation.
I BOUGHT A NEW HYUNDAI SONATA IN 2018, I HAVE USED THIS PRODUCT EVERY 6 THOUSANDS MILES, MY 2.0 LITRE TURBO, RUNS LIKE THE DAY I BOUGHT IT, AWESOME PRODUCT
Change your oil way sooner than they tell you to in these cars. Just do it. You’ll thank me later.
Thanks Batman 😀
Thanks brother
Agreed. I have a 2015 Optima w the Turbo. Though I only drive about 8000 miles a year I still change the oil every 3-4 months. I note after 3 months the engine gets louder and labors more. The car runs better on very clean oil
picking some up tomorrow for the mk7 gti with 20k miles
I used this as preventative maintenance on my Kia Soul, then I lost a lot of power. It turns out that my catalytic converter was clogged up, probably from the carbon that was dislodged from the valves. So, yeah it cleans the carbon off the valves, but it can result in expensive repairs to your exhaust system. That $15 can of magic cost me $1500 at the Kia dealership.
sibco96 The pieces of carbon that could have been in your cylinders would never have been large enough to clog your catalytic converter, especially mixed with solvent. Your converter failed because it fails on Souls, but if it had under 80k miles, it should have been under warranty. www.kiasoulforums.com/threads/premature-catalytic-converter-failure.113603/
I had a bunch of catalytic converter codes after using, but they went away after a week. I plan to use it again.
Old post I know but hoping for a reply. What did the Kia dealer say is the best way to combat the carbon build up?
@@Hutchy86 I'm trying to remember. One time I took it to the Kia dealer and of course the suggestion was an expensive catalytic converter replacement. I went to a muffler shop to get it done instead. This happened twice, then I got rid of the car. No more Kias or Hyundais for me.
@@sibco96 thanks but I was actually referring to the values valves. Thanks for replying 👍
I have the dreaded 2.4 theta 2 engine, I recently switched from always using full synthetic that's recommended to using mobil conventional 5w30. I no longer have to add half a quart every week and it runs quieter.
I got a Toyota with D4s and do not worry about it anymore. Toyota FTW!
My old man needed to buy a new car a few years ago, and he was looking at a Subaru Forester SUV (GDI Engine), I've convinced him to buy a RAV 4 for that reason : port and direct injection, more HP, faster warmup, better gas economy, better transmission 8 speed, no lag CVT like all Subaru's now
@@mirceamunteanu4791 Only thing Subaru is better than Toyota is AWD they do have the best AWD, but that is it. That Rav 4 will last him the rest of his life if he stays on top of the service.
GDI Cars should come with catch cans from the factory. Won't solve the problem but may delay needing to prematurely service the valves.
Solid and cheep option to help with all the evap junk
I agree, I did install a JLT catch can last Tuesday at or around 12,000 miles....I think I might buy the jlt 3 oz extension can for my 2019 after I check the JLT after 3000 miles to see what Will be in the can.
Or use both port AND direct injection so you get the benefits of direct injection without the carbon buildup issues.
@@psychopenguin3821 not sure how they would freeze up, there is a lot of heat passing through that can. Plus oil is what is mostly being caught and it shouldn't freeze up..
you all prolly dont care at all but does anyone know of a trick to get back into an instagram account?
I stupidly lost the login password. I would love any tricks you can offer me
Great explanation and visuals, I'll never buy a GDI engine. I'll stick with old school...
2014 Kia Rio 1.6L GDI even after using Seafoam regularly, 3500 mi oil changes, top tier fuel, valves get buildup where it impedes the complete closing of valves which allows oil to go through manifold to catalytic converter causing clog and heat damage. No recall on Rio , just Soul at this time but class action lawsuit filed in Federal Court in April 2022 against Kia Motors...Look at Kia excessive oil consumption.
I was thinking about getting a new '22 or '23 Kia Carnival with the 3.5 v6 GDI I wonder if I should pass 🤔
An oil catch-can 100% eliminates this problem. You are welcome.
0:51 "GDI can provide improved MPG" 1:02 "Carbon deposits from GDI will lower MPG"
In reality, GDI cars don't get better gas mileage than port fuel injected cars, but require burning gnarly chemicals to clean the engine. That's way worse for the environment than a normal port fuel injected engine. I'm sure this is the government's doing. Whenever the government tries to save the environment, it creates more pollution. Oh, and people aren't going to maintain their cars 5x as much, so now cars go to the junkyard sooner too.
GDI is stupid. The cleaner stuff in the video is pretty cool though. I've cleaned carburetors and fuel injectors (out of the car so I know it worked) with GDI cleaner and it seems to be more potent than carburetor cleaner.
Using Pennzoil ultra platinum 5w20 and a bottle of Chevron Techron Complete, plus good gasoline will go a long way to help. My wife ❤ her 2014 Optima, and only has 22k on it. We are currently on vacation and we have driven over 1200 mi to get here, 75-80 mph while getting 38mpg. I've seen many of these vehicles over 150k miles. I've done a lot of research on the GDI 2014 OPTIMA, best i can tell is try to keep carbon build up at a minimum. And make sure the VIN number does not begin with a 3, these vehicles were assembled in Mexico and have proven to be very problematic. The Pennzoil ultra platinum and Chevron Techron Complete are great products, as is CRC intake and turbo cleaner. I hope my very limited knowledge has helped at least 1 person 😂.
Using the same oil in the wife's 2015 Hyundia Santa Fe along with injection and valve cleaner / fuel system cleaner on a somewhat regular basis. Pretty sure it's the only thing keeping that motor alive (2.4L). Will try this in the near future. I dont like how the oil looks like diesel oil even though it's changed like clockwork. Not only that but its using oil now also which sucks considering very good oil is used
My 2015 Kia forte five First three Vin letters are KNF ………… I’ve been running now shell premium, Pennzoil, high mileage, platinum and had the injectors had to be rebuilt over a year and a half ago because it was almost catastrophic and my car runs smooth now mechanic told me to put in premium gas and I have been for months and months, but haven’t done the CRC cleaner as represented in this video I think the technicians did it on my car probably a couple years ago. I’m afraid to do it with over 161,000 miles and it’s running pretty good. I don’t wanna make a mess out of this and have carbon or pieces of material causing issue that break free.
Mercury Marine yes the Boat Company has a similar product called "Power Tune" about 10 bucks at your dealer. I use the stuff everyday it also works great as a carb cleaner FSM cleaner I've had it get fuel pumps to working again. Had it bring compression up by removing carbon. Love it and swear by it.
Before & after CRC intake valve cleaner
If you have a GDI engine, never let the vehicle just sit and idle for long periods of time. This is when most of the deposits occur. When in the drive through shut the engine off, waiting for friends you pick up ect. Another thing that helps is being a little heavy on the gas in first and second, and a good spirited highway drive at least once a week. These are the tips I have read about that seem to make the most sense.
But for turbocharged GDI cars after driving hard you can't just shut the car down right away you may end up damaging the turbo (turbo timers actually leave your car running after even shutting it down, of course that is if you were just driving it hard) so this only applies to naturally aspirated GDI cars.
@@raulferro3998 I agree 100%. I only own naturally aspirated vehicles so I was not referring to them, thanks for the extra info. Come to think of it I never owned a turbo car before, something I must put on my to do list.
Most modern turbos are cooled by oil and coolant so you dont have to sit and let it cool down.Its says in the owners manual only if your running hard on the interstate then say you pull into a rest area then you should give it a min or two before shutting down @@raulferro3998
So I used this today on my 2015 KIA Forte EX GDI. I made sure not to spray it into the MAF sensor, I couldn’t find it anywhere so I proceeded as normal. Turns out there’s not one on my model.
So I sprayed it into where it shows on the video, the air duct where the air filter goes. I had my buddy keep the motor revved up to 2,000-3,000 RPM. Everything went okay, so I went to go get on the freeway for 10 minutes as instructed in the video, which was only a 2 minute drive away, as I got up to 35, the engine rattled real bad and a BUNCH of white smoke came out the back. It rattled once more as I got on the freeway, but not nearly as bad, and not as much white smoke the second time.
Later in the day I did notice more power to the gas pedal, and higher MPG as indicated on the dash. Engine appears to be running normal. No check engine lights or anything.
Is the engine rattle that happened normal? This is the first time I’ve ever done it after finding this video. Engine has 151k miles on it.
Make sure you take the car to the dealer and have the recall taken care of. (Knock sensor)
That's a HUGE deal that can cost $7000 if you don''t have it done.
Avoid driving the car unless you have it done.
It will add a warranty to your engine. Make sure your oil is full and keep it clean with good synthetic oil.
Ignore what you hear and change it every 3000 miles. I have 440,000 miles on the same engine. You want high miles? Do as I say.
Install a catch can. I installed a ine in my Hyundai Tucson and the engine was really smooth afterwards.
Could this cleaner cause large chunks of carbon to break off and damage the turbo and other components like catalytic converter ? I have run my car now for 20k miles since brand new without gdi cleaners and worried about using it now at this stage.
The video said carbon build up could get so bad that chunks could eventually fall off and damage catalytic converter. However I noticed that once he mentioned valve cleaner product, he said the cleaner is safe for everything. I’ll make my own assumption and say yea this stuff is safe and won’t damage any part of the vehicle
Well my 2013 F150 Ecoboost has 130k miles on it fitted with a GDI engine and never cleaned the valves. I tried it, and my warm idle went from 1200 RPMs to 600 RPMs. Great results! I gained 3 miles on Fuel Economy and its getting better.
As concerned as I was what with my Cat being destroyed as well as a chunk of carbon flinging off to my Turbos and destroying it, I emailed them directly about my concerns. They said that the product is meant to melt away the carbon build up layer by layer and the natural movement of the engine and the heat combined, makes it easier for the carbon deposits to break apart.
So far so good. Only good results here! Now I'm going to get my 3rd treatment in a couple months so I'll keep you posted.
Oh and I also installed an Oil Catch Can to further prevent Carbon Build-up. Works wonders 👌
This is brought to you by CRC
"Safely dissolves carbon in a controlled manner that prevents large pieces from dislodging in the engine." is their statement. This is better than large lumps of carbon breaking off and ending up in your catalytic converter. Everyone says...use the can until empty. BUT I think a better strategy for a large mileage GDI engine that would have a ton of carbon build up, would be to approach it gradually. I would be doing a quarter can or less once a weak until two cans used. Just gradually remove the carbon build up. I wouldn't want a flood of carbon through the converters and oxygen sensors all at once. Doing it bit by bit might be safer for those components. That will be my strategy.
I have thought you could remove a good catalytic converter and replace it with one that has the center already torn out. Drive it like that for 2 weeks and it will collect any of the junk in it. Then swap the good one back again. Saves taking intake pipes off every week for 8 weeks.
I could see this working as preventative maintenance. If you’ve got 150k you’re just going to send carbon through your engine and cat and cause damage. Maybe if you start at 10k and hit it every 10k you might remove the small stuff before it becomes an issue.
Todd Roush you are so wright. But people don't take care of their engines.just put gas and let's go.
Scott Mayfield Like I said, it’s a crap shoot. I’m glad yours worked out. 👍
Just remove the catalytic converter problem solved and you can have clean carbon free engines for the rest of the vehicles life span.
I was thinking about getting a new '22 or 23 Kia Carnival with the 3.5 GDI I wonder if I should pass 🤔
Wil this work on my Tesla 3.0 ?
Yeah, I am sure this will squeaky clean out all the intake valves on your Tesla 3.0 gas engine. You are guaranteed to get rid of all the fuel efficiency issues. :-)
Spray on all sides of the battery pack twice a month. Not sure how much good it will do for your mileage but CRC will appreciate the sales.
Tesla 3.0t is port injection, only works on the Tesla 2.0T which is GDI😂
I just ordered a catch can for mine and will use the crc to cleen it
So you're going to use CRC to clean your OCC??
The Mazda GDI seems less filthy than other brands. See the Project Farm UA-cam videos- he found that adding Berryman B-12 Chemtool to the gas tank once in awhile and Restore to the engine oil (if the piston rings have a lot of wear) help reduce problems from carbon buildup. A 10 hour drive at 70 mph on a hot day might help, especially for diesel engines. I would like to see a comparison test for different cleaner brands by someone independent, instead of marketing for 1 brand.
Jeff Ruebens Adding anything to fuel or oil won’t alleviate the problem as the fuel never gets to the top of the pistons. Fuel has plenty of detergents added to it already. That’s why port injection systems don’t have this issue. In those, the fuel is sprayed onto the top of the pistons and the detergents clean off the deposits before they’re burnt onto the metal. You’re confusing combustion chamber deposits with the piston head deposits that plague DI engines.
No product helps piston head carbon build-up in any significant way. Only periodic walnut blasting cleans it.
Dont forget to reset your CHECK ENGINE LIGHT 😎 after.
Were any tests done for potential piston rings / cylinder wall wear from all this carbon entering the combustion chamber all at once? I imagine it's like sand particles that will scratch the walls and cause eventual engine damage
Sorry for the delay in responding to your question. For the best information on this, you will want to contact the CRC Industries Tech Line: 800-521-3168
Cool product.
Where does the dirt actually go?
Out the exhaust pipe...
Gets stuck in your cat.
I have a Hyundai GDI engine thats done 120k miles. No issues - Still 0-60 in 8s and just under 40mpg. So its simply not true that all GDI's suffer from this issue..
Veloster 1.6 GDI
I have a question. I am using a top tier 91% gas and 100% synthetic oil. When there is noticeable carbon buildup on the tailpipes; Does this means the carbon is building on the intake valves too or is the engine is getting rid of that buildup and exiting it out the tailpipes and out of the system??? Thank you Gary (2017 WRX Limited).
It will depend on the vehicle. You can't go by the tailpipe. Turbos will never lose the soot because of how quickly the air fuel ratio is changing constantly, for example. If you have a GDI engine the valves will experience carbon build up. It's best to periodically clean them.
The soot on the tailpipes is from startup or other times when the engine is running rich
All top tier and synthetic oil burn rich. Ethanol cold starts and low intake temp will result to no black pipes.
Know Your Parts rofl, you know nothing about cars except what's said in your training video, the wrx with their new direct injection 2.0 liter will have the same problems that all the other direct injection vehicles have. This product is snake oil, and has been proven, pull the intake, take pics, use product as instruction says, remove intake again and compare. I love how all snake oil adds say at least a dozen times how it works we swear, these pics are proof, yet 0 garrenty. Why no garrenty if it works so well? Because it doesnt.
I'd agree however its "guarantee not garrenty" yes these sprays are useless... as don't forget they'd be on the valves for a millionth of a second ….. spraying the solution onto a stationary object & watch the oil being baked/removed by the solution is a totally different effect to using it via the intake tracked.... anyone with sense would just remove the intake manifold & clean the valves & chamber themselves.. I've just done my N14 turbo mini & I've used carb cleaner & fuel (fuel as I used a lot less to remove the oil build-up... YES its bloody NOT carbon)
I've said else where on utube.. I'd pay to see anyone remove the intake video it, refit it & start the car & spray this or anything else said to clean the intake valves & then remove the intake again... I'll guarantee no-one would ever do so.. as it would clearly show as you've mentioned its a waste of money!!
CRC Valve Cleaner is the solution but don't follow instructions on can. 2017 Sonata new got 32mpg combined. At 25K now gets 26mpg combined. After cleaning, returned to 32mpg and sets you back into the seat @ WOT, so it works. Bring car to operating temp., spray intake (down flow from any MAF) with full spray at 2500rpm. Engine will choke down and almost die, turn off at this point. Let heat soak for 1 hour. Start and drive for a couple miles and repeat twice (3 times total). Engine will crank longer before starting and will rattle and ping first mile of first cleaning. This method only uses 1/3 can for all three heat soaks. The initial pinging proves that carbon was breaking away after each heat soak. No codes set and 5K mile later (30K). Blow-by from crankcase increases with each acceleration and that is why highway use delays carbon buildup. I am a lead foot with WOT used frequently. I will do one heat soak every oil change from now on. GDI problem handled.
Thank you for your comment and support of CRC GDI IVD Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner.
We recommend to perform short 1 second bursts until the can is completely empty. 1 can per vehicle treatment, regardless of engine size. Heavy spray rates especially in 4 cylinder vehicles will cause pooling of the product.
Pooling of the product could lead to pinging or knocking since extra combustible material is in the cylinder and not accounted for by the ECM. If you have further questions please reach out to Scott at Technical Support 1.800.521.3168
I have a 2016 and the gdi motors and cvt trannys are trash. You need to run sea foam through the intake system ( because gdi doesn't inject gas through the intake like most cars , so they get higher compression ) and take the intake boot off and spray behind the mass air flow sensor. Put boot back on. Rev to 2k rpms and hold it there while someone sprays the sea foam in . After can is empty, turn off car and let hot soak for 15 min. Then start it up, Rev it, drive about 10 min. If smoke doesn't appear right away don't worry it will ( especially in these trash motors , I've done 2 sea foam sprays already and may need a 3rd ) . If no smoke comes out, pull over and turn the car off for 5 min . Start process over again and if you have triptronic where you can control the gears then really get on it 1- 4th gear . Blow all that crap out of your motor. These engines do burn gas esp while using sea foam. Get an oil change shortly after. Smart thing would to be add the liquid kind to the motor and fuel system and drive 100-200 miles and then definitely get an oil change. God bless 🙌 🙏
decarbonizing is also a great solution for this problem
Ok what about the MAP sensor on the other side of the throttle body? That is my question?
Owned car far to long before realising that it needs to run of good petrol high octane and to clean your intake valves
1. Toyota uses dual injection in their D4s that solve problem in its very beginning.
2. You forgot about EGR system that is one of three legs of carbon built-up: PCV crank ventilation system+EGR+GDI. All these three are making the problem real.
and turbochargers where applied
Can you please say honestly how Hyundai Palisade v6 gdi engine is? Is this very good quality v6 engine? Will this engine run 500k to 600k km? I want to know because I have a confusion to choose from Hyundai Palisade V6, Volkswagen Atlas sel V6, and Honda Pilot Elite V6, please give me the right information because I want to choose a V6 car which will run perfectly 500k to 600k km without any big issues...
Using a high-quality engine oil from one of the big-name brands and changing your oil yourself at 4k miles will save you a lot of headaches later. And put a high-quality fuel injector cleaner in your gas tank every month or so to keep your high-pressure injectors cleaned and spraying the right pattern The better engine oils don't allow the oil to vaporize as much so that helps in reducing carbon build up
what is the effect of high humidity on gdi engine? will the air with high humidty solving de carbon?
lets see if i get an answer... warrenty problems on a ford car? 2.0 turbo?
As a professional tech, I can confirm, that your cleaner does not work.
Idk buddy there's some people who been working on cars that say otherwise👀
Are you using it correctly you do know the engine is suppose to be hot right
@@richardgolden3364 it doesn't matter in what temperature, cleaner doesn't work if carbon already caked up on the valve, even if we use screwdriver or sharp objects it still need a little bit effort scarp them off.
But liqui moly valve clean does..
@@dingpongchi632 I heard it depends on the car. For instance I heard cleaner doesn’t work on vw tsi
Should I change the oil
There's no way this type of product won't damage the oil, ..so yes.
Alfa Romeo, Toyota, and many others are starting tu use a regular port injector just to solve this. VW/Audí owners needs to buy this by the thousands
Subaru BRZ & Toyota GT86 have port injectors since 2013 (Toyota D4S fuel injection)
Volkwagen GDi engines in Europe now use a dual port system.
Diesel engines work on the same injection principle(with some differences) how come they don't need valve maintenance so often?
Diesel’s have their own build up issues separate from GDI engines. Even though fuel injection is the same, fuel being sprayed directly into the cylinder. Diesel engines use CCV systems instead of the GDI engines using PCV systems.
@@Knowyourparts so does diesel cars still need to this but with some other products that works with diesel engine? Cause in the video it said only for gasoline engines.....
@@cuvame they explicitly said not to use this product in a diesel engine
How did it reach the spark plugs 😂 without opening them and with the intake valve closed.
Word. I gotta get me some of this stuff
How can i check wether my car has a direct/indirect injection system or a combination of those two??
Web search. Be sure to indicate year, make , model, engine type.
GDI is right DOWN there with Throttle by Wire!: My newest (2004) Honda has a conventional throttle body with cable. Even when the proper Hondata software was applied to my 2007 Civic Si Coupe, there was still appreciable Rev Hang left. This prevented easily matching the engine flywheel rpm to the transmission rpm, causing large shift delays and loss of horsepower-John in Texas
do i need to change my engine oil after using this product?
no
Probably, you need to remove those carbons which sent to oil pan.
Great video on how to maintain a clean GDI engine 🙌🌞
Nice boost to your sales lol..
and what is a chunk of carbon breaks off were does this chunk go ? right it might do some severe damage in a running engine
bigliftm -- exactly. I'm wondering about long term cylinder wall wear from all this carbon being burned up in large quantities. It's like dumping sand particles into the intake. The piston rings and cylinder walls will take a beating.
Artem Brayson i was thinking the same thing
This cleans oil, not carbon deposits, on the intake valves, injectors and spark plugs. The dissolved oil will burn/vaporize during combustion.
great infofmation
Good product. Any usage on PFI?
Any opinion about CRC spray Cleaner for Carbon method?. Bought a 2016 Kia Sorento 2.0Turbo with 68,000 miles, probably had a lot of highway miles.
I'm wondering would I be able to do this myself? Is it a DIY sort of fix? Because if so I could simply run to the auto supply store, pick this stuff up and spray away.
Nobody wants to admit GDI engines is a horrible idea. It's like cutting off a horse's leg to reduce its weight so it can run faster. 😆
So it’ll work on non turbo GDI engines ? I’m gonna try this on my parents 2011 v6 traverse & my wife’s 2015 sonata sport
What about the turbo? Is all the CRC still going to reach the valves after going through the turbo and intercooler?
I have a chevy volt you can't control the rpm on the generator. How would you apply this to my car?
Thanks for your question. For the quickest response and best information on this, you will want to contact the CRC Industries Tech Line: 800-521-3168
There’s no need to buy a direct injection engine. It needs so much more maintenance and costs reducing reliability. You’ll find those cars are being traded in on used car lots with only 30,000 miles.
Many vehicles these days with only GDI engines. If you want a car without GDI it severely limits your selection.
I have a Cadillac with GDI and twin overhead variable camshaft timing. It requires little extra maintenance. I get the valve cleaning service done about every 20K miles. No other special mtce. The oil change interval is determined by the ECU, I usually get it changed 1x/year, when it says I have about 25% oil life remaining. Spark plugs should last 100K miles, I still have the original plugs. Car has about 80K miles & runs fine. No other engine was available.
My wife has a 2018 Focus with a 2.0-liter FFV (up to 85% ethanol) I-4 direct injection engine. It wasn't badged or advertised as being GDI. I wouldn't have known without reading the manual. Car makers don't make a big deal about GDI any longer. The Focus has had only oil & filter changes since new. Absolutely no additional mtce due to being GDI. It gets 30+ MPG. No other engine was available.
@@RichardFallstich which type of valve cleaning service and the cost?
@@RICK-uf1jj It's called "RUN-RITE 3-STEP G.D.I. FUEL SYSTEM CLEANER" Last done about a year ago for $70.00
If it was such a “massive problem” why are so many vehicles moving to GDI?
Keep up on your maintenance, use non cheap gas, and drive your vehicle. I think people are making this a bigger deal than it is.
Not saying it’s not a problem, but I seriously think it’s hyped up.
Government regulations for emissions
Try the Italian method.
Before oil change, fill the tank with the cleanest and best gas you can get. Add an additive for that method if you want. Then run on high load and high rpm so the engine heats up really well. This will burn the carbon on the valves and everywhere and there you go
that works/worked for carbureted engines
At least try to understand the basics before giving advice. DIRECT INJECTION means the fuel type and any additive BS will not touch the valves and have exactly 0% chance of working.
@@BoogieDownProduction so what? The engine and intake valves get heated up by that method.
Try to understand simple physics before trying to correct a stranger in the Internet
@@kazn10 You're dumb. If you have ever actually manually cleaned valves you would know why just heating them up will do very little if anything. And you're right I did correct you because you were ignorantly blabbering about "best gas you can get" and "additive" as if that would do anything, like holy shit its a direct injection engine how do you not understand something so basic? The video even explained what a DI engine was all you had to do was watch the video.
@@BoogieDownProduction alright. Seems like you're dumb, too if you can't understand simple PHYSICS and how engines work especially with poor gas quality. I don't know where you live or work, but there are additives which factually clean the engine. I'm not sure if these technologies are approved in your country.
Heating the engine up can make the carbon deposits burn away. It definitely depends on the engine itself. It CAN burn the deposits away if the components get hot enough. If they get hotter than 290°C carbon has no surface to stick on..
That's all from my side
My question is this…. Did the manufacturers of DI engines know about this before flooding the market with them and just didn’t care because their greedy AF? Or did they truly just brain fart and skipped the research and development process. 🤔
Technology is almost always more advanced than what they give us, They have to put Technology out in "phases" by doing it this way they have future "solutions" to problem they where awair of prior. This keeps consumer's consuming.
Ford doesn't recommend this on their EcoBoost engines, cause the carbon can break off in chunks and damage the turbines on the turbo.
I can learn how to replace the turbo's myself with only a few tools, a $1k project, vs spending thousands to have a skilled mechanic rip my engine apart to replace the valves. But, I noticed a lot of comments here that state this product doesn't work so I will need to learn how to clean the valves myself.
@@Hiker_Mike you are right you could replace it yourself. You can replace anything in your car yourself if you have the resources.
Yeah I'd have to agree with the others. I've seen before/after pics and it doesn't really make much of a difference. The only real way to clean the valves is to take it to a shop and have them walnut shell blasted
Alex, I like this video, seems like a more reliable way to clean the valves w/o causing potential secondary problems with debris.
ua-cam.com/video/Kn6NVHLy-Xc/v-deo.html
I want to clean the turbo with this product, do I have to apply the product with the vehicle on?
Yes it does need to be running. There may be other options if you're looking to clean it while off though.
Do you have to do an oil change shortly after?
I read elsewhere that an oil change is required after treatment because the crap that it removes from the valves gets into the oil. I can't remember where I read it. But I DID read it and that's what I will do after a few hundred miles after using this stuff
Do it before your oil change
Fuel injector cleaner used every 4th tank of fuel will keep any type of injectors clean Inc GDI.
With higher compressions and low tension rings in a GDI engine, blow by can be a problem with carbon sticking the rings.
Oil changes at half the normal intervals can help prevent this and along with an oil flush additive will keep internals clean. After the old oil is drained, refill with 2 litres of oil & 1 litre of diesel. Run the engine at idle for 10 mins and drain. Doing this at ev ery oil change will keep the internals spotless and rid the engine and sump pan of any sludge build up. Refill with a premium quality oil and filter.
Diesel washes cylinder walls, malfuntionjng diesel injectors washing cylinder walls is a calamity...how can you run an engine with diesel diluting the oil?
@@RICK-uf1jj you're only running the engine at idle with no load for a max of 10 minutes while the engine is being cleaned internally
Does far more good than harm..
COOL. Wonder if it can also be used on a regular multi point fuel injection system?
You will ALWAYS get carbon build up in Direct Injection (only) engines, period. However, not all build up are equal.
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Thin, dry, sooty, build up -- which are usually mild and will not make a tangible impact on airflow is from valve overlap at lower rpms causing some of the exhaust products to back up into the intake before being sucked back down into the cylinders. If that is all you have, I won't bother to clean it. Dry soot, you see, doesn't really stick!
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Thick, cruddy, oily build up is from OIL in the PCV valve and/or leaky turbo seals. Cleaning it is not really a fix. I guarantee it'll return in 30,000~40,000 miles. Not much you can do about a leaky turbo -- time to replace it or sell the car. But you can install an oil catch can in the PCV system to cut down on 90% of the oil getting to the intakes. You can also use an oil that doesn't evaporate as much and does not cause as much oil vapor to go through the PCV system. In general, use a good synthetic that DOES NOT have a wide viscosity range. In general, the 0W-40 is going to evaporate more than the the 10W30 or 5W20. If you want to be sure look up the evaporation loss numbers for that specific oil.
Dwight Looi what about Diesel engines?
@@jaarryifleshblood315 Watch the video. At about 6:25 it says should NOT be used on diesel engines.
In the 1950's and 60's American made cars had a 'dump tube'... allowing the bottom of the crank case to 'vent' to atmosphere. By adding a PCV and "VACUUM" to that system, you are effective creating a 'mist' from the oil in your engine... That misted oil then is introduced to your engine, intake. The bottom end of your crank case only produces about 2 pounds of pressure... Your vacuum system produces up to 10-15 pounds at times... So.. you're 'sucking 6-8 times the volume of what is necessary to simply "VENT" your lower crank case. Plug, by pass your PCV system and just leave a 'vent' tube for your lower crank case to equalize that pressure.
this way ZERO oil/sludge will be introduced to your intake system, intake valves, and cat. Problem SOLVED
Yes, my 58 cadillac has the down draft tube.
You really don't know physics. Comparing the pressures does not produce direct to volume conversions. Several other parameters need to be factored. And the crankcase has pressure, but the intake manifold is under vacuum from the engine. But that amount of vacuum can vary greatly depending on engine design & throttle position. My Cadillac CTS with a GDI engine produce so little vacuum, that it has an electric auxiliary vacuum pump. This electric pump does not pull vacuum in the intake manifold or engine. It is to increase vacuum for the power brake booster and devices that use vacuum such as HVAC. There are check valves so the electric pump does not affect the engine performance.
Moreover, cars in the 50s & 60s had carburetors - you really want to go back to those?
@@RichardFallstich Im not going back to carbs, I am simply 'equalizing' the pressure between the bottom of the engine and atmospheric pressure, NOT drawing a 'vacuum' creating more problems.
I used it on Volvo my V70R. Ran much better but not long after I blew head gasket. Probably not correlated but nervous about using it on my Audi S4.
For best results, can I remove intake manifold and apply directly to the valve?
It's better to let the engines' normal operation distribute the cleaner. If it doesn't clean everything sufficiently, do an oil change and another clean.
You "can" remove the manifold, but it will be hot as the product instructions say to fully warm up engine first. Also, the engine must be running to use this. The engine probably won't run well, or at all, without the manifold in place.
I have ran diesel engines for over 40 years & they have GDI ,but didn't have these issues,modern engines with blow bx being injected into the inlet combustion system , oil type & changes & proper fuel grades will help:but disassembly & walnut blasting will eventually be required,these additives help but are not the total answer, we use the CRC additives for the initial hand cleaning before the blasting! these sprays used while running can damage the turbo internals ;only qualified mechanical personnel should use these procedures!!!!
Did anyone tried DW-40 instead?
Diesel engines use direct injection for years ago.. I never heard problems like that...so why gasoline engines does..??
Is there a list of mechanics so I can have it done to my Mercedes in KY?
I was looking for an answer not a sarcastic comment
I wasn’t asking about money. I was asking about a list of places that would perform the service.
Large carbon break offs will damage the catalytic converter, therefore, it's a good idea to remove a good catalytic converter and install a bad one, run it for a while, then reinstall a good catalytic converter.
Toyota uses direct and indirect fuel injectors on its engines as in both in the one engine
The best of both worlds. Direct for performance and indirect(port) to keep valves clean
Jeffy very true
Audi also have MPI and SIDI in some new engines
Appreciate another great product but we have avoided these issues by avoiding vehicles with GDI engines. 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 2013 FIAT Abarth, and an old SAAB. All are port injected. FCA seems slow to adopt GDI thank goodness.
If you're driving around in those cars you're gonna have worse problems.
You may be right. The SAAB has 250k miles on it. Had front wheel bearing fail, light bulbs, water pumps seem weak now that they are China made. Needs new subframe bushings. Jeep GC, had a TIPM recall. Other failure was brake light bulbs burnt out. FIAT Abarth, 44k miles. 2 of the radio buttons are peeling. Replaced a part on cylinder head as a performance upgrade. Never had a car that is so much fun to drive and own. (FIAT).
Solution: Dont buy a car that has direct injection. Buy a car that dual or port injection.
Wait I don't understand... in the beginning of the video, it says pieces of carbon falling through the valve and eventually making its way into the cat and will burn a hole in the cat. But it also seems like this is exactly what this product makes work.
on a mpi engine the exhaust valves get carbon so think about it? its just a sales pinch
It's been burned on the exhaust side though, and doesn't stick in the same manner.
They keep saying carbon when it’s actually oil vapors from you PCV system and EGC valve. It forms more of a tar then what you think of like a “charcoal” like substance which cakes the exhaust valves.
And this is the best valve cleaner out there. Did better then seafoam and Lucas in my 5.7L Tundra, and it’s port injected.
thank you for the great video solved a lot for me keep up the good work
How healthy is this product for the environment? Does the use of this product spew carcinogenes into the air? Any studies on what's coming out of the exhaust during the the treatment?
Another solution is to just stick with port injection.
Michael Cline The BEST solution yet!💯 You could also buy a car that is Direct AND Port injection (Direct port injection) To get the best of both worlds.👍🏻
Yeah but that would limit your options to just the BRZ, 86, 2018 Camry, and 2019 Corolla. Not everyone wants those particular cars. The BRZ and 86 are too expensive to own (insurance and low fuel economy). The Camry is a bit too expensive for some people. The Corolla looks nice but we still don't know how good it really is yet (its brand new).
if these solutions are so good why isn't there a direct injection system made to inject this solution (or others) to clean the valves whislt the vehicle is in use... further more, why cant fuel manufacturers sell cleaning fluids similar to those agents within petrol that originally cleaned the valves to start with..
we see cars being fitted with water injection from the factories (bmw, Porsche etc etc) why cant manufacturers do so with cleaning agents on GDI engines......
@@tacocruiser4238 the 2016 lexus and all newer models from Toyota have best of both worlds. Best to stick to automakers who give a shit about quality
Michael Cline Ford has been using port direct injection in all their ecoboost motors from 2017 and up.
How should I use it on mini cooper S R56 ?
If carbon build up in GDI engines couldn't be prevented, then all GDI engines must've got a certain amount of carbon build up after a certain milage, but that's not what's happening. There's a video of a guy on YT doing 250k on his Hyundai GDI and not having any engine problems. He changed the oil on recommended intervals and added a bottle of fuel additive to a full tank of gas after each oil change , that's all. GDI engines have been around since mid 90's and if they were vastly problematic, they'd have been discontinued by now
it is safe for turbo intercooler direct injection for L15B7 honda civic 2016
GDI junk....my 2002 Silverado 5.3 with 151k miles with port fuel injection idles and runs just as smooth since the day I bought it
Sorry to hear that my Kia GDI with 225,000 is junk. If it or my wife's car with 115000 craps out tomorrow they'd still be the best cars I've ever bought. By the way I've had multiple Ford's GM's Honda Audi Volkswagen Datsun Nissan Mazda. All were junk by comparison.
You need a 10 mm scope cam and some minor tools once you remove the intake manifold. Some vehicles will be harder to clean as the bore is deeper. To pickup the loose bits that your take out manually you need a shop vac with a hose that goes into the intake port. I takes time but yes you can call it the deposits, we just did it to a GM traverse with 150,000 km and it was nasty very nasty. This product is a scam and the deposits still need to be vacuumed out. This product was returned 1 hour after being used as it did not do squat.
i have the hyundai sonata 2.0t 2017 but I'm not sure where to spray it... because I couldn't find the MAF anywhere...
is it safe to spray it through MAP?
can anyone can help me please?
Okeu Ragil yes MAP sensor is fine, I just did mine. You should only worry about MAF sensor
Is possible your hyndai doesn't have maf only map.if you can't find it on the air intake snorkel betwen air filter and throttle body it means you don't have maf.
How do diesel engines get around this problem? I thought they also have a direct injection system since ever.
The CRC product is formulated specifically for gasoline engines. Diesel engines form carbon on other areas, not as much on intake valves when compared to GDI so we recommend a fuel additive for diesel engines with carbon buildup. CRC 1-TANK for Diesel is a great option: www.crcindustries.com/products/diesel-1-tank-power-renew-174-15-fl-oz-05816.html
What is the reason you say do it before a oil change?
Most likely it may cause a few more contaminants in the oil. Not a major issue usually, but it's just an extra safety step. In the past when running any cleaner I would do it like a week before an oil change.
I got an improvement by spraying paraffin into the air intake.
Animation fails to show valve overlap. That was the turbine wheel shown, not an impeller/compressor wheel.
Crc intake cleaner works yes no doubt! But remember friends it doesnt work like bringing the old carbon gunky valve into brand new valve to its genuine life when you once bought a brand new car with 0 miles on it. The only best possible solution to bring old valves into genuine shiny valves life is to use a ground wallnut shells soft abrasive blasting. Trust me on this one. All the world chemicals they might invent but nothing can be purely cleaned with chemicals as compare to manual wallnut shells blasting.
Jahuri day
Not if you do it every 5K with before oil changes. You never let it get so bad it needs blasted.
Try two or three imans around a metalic pipe to the fuel intake
I think is better to use HHO instead of this quimic,