I too run Amsoil Sabor with 93 None Oxy…agreed! Switched from Stihl premium and I’m telling you it flat out runs better! Noticed same results with blower, and weed Whacter,and it smells good to boot.😊
The WCS are selling the Stihl original parts as fallers suspension kit. Order the following parts from your local Stihl dealer: 1135 791 2800 - foam Star - 5,99$ (1×) 1144 791 3103 - Spring - 4,99$ (1×) 1133 791 5900 - rubber buffer - 5,99 $ (2×) 22,96$ - Total costs WCS will charge you at least double price for their so-called suspension kit + sipping costs ✌️
I bought a slightly used 462 when they first came out that had supposedly been run on nothing but VP premix its whole life. Guy said the saw had less than five gallons through it. It was carboned up bad inside. Piston had a healthy coat on top and the exhaust port was coated all the way around as well as the combustion chamber. I cleaned it all up when I tossed the base gasket and it's been running bel-ray H1R at 44:1 for the last few years. Bgd, muffler mod and airbox delete with wcs filter and it runs pretty stout. Just wish it was an R model.
@marksmall6981 wrap handle, bigger clutch cover and a bigger set of factory dawgs. And I believe they have a higher output oiler. Mine oils a 28 fine, though, and that's as big a bar as I will ever need.
At one time, Stihl made HO oilers. On the latest pro saw line up 462 and up they all have their one oiler and that's it, no more HO because they are ALL HO oilers thays why Stihl puts the roll pin there to set your max output, if you need all the oiler can give you pound that roll pin all the way in so you can now adjust the oiler all the aay up.
40:1 is the way to go. Use best oil money can buy and preferably alkylate gasoline meant for small engines. Why 40:1? Well, because 50:1 is too little and 30:1 is too much.
Hey John, is there any benefit to the suspension upgrade if your not running a bar longer than a 25"? Also what's up with the fuel/oil mix. I've always ran the highest octane I can find at the pump and the Sthil premium syn recommended 50:1. I'm just a weekend warrior, firewood cutter but I like to take good care of my saws. The premix stuff is kinda pricey when I'm doing a lot of cutting. Would it be best to just eat the cost or is there a certain octane level I should be shooting for and a better oil I should run? Hell I just figured Sthil knew what they were doing. I run a 261,362,462,and a 500i, yeah I love my saws. Thanks for the awesome vids.
I wouldn't worry about the suspension if you are running a 25... its not really necessary... if you feel its too spongy then sure give it a try... the WCS air filter is the best product for the 462... I do not like the stihl mix... I have just seen too much evidence that its not the best... and I love stihl but I gotta call it like I see it my man
Agreed my man... honestly its the only fuel I have actually noticed results in performance... I think its the perfect octane... lotta people don't realize a really high octane in saws will start to go backwards in performance... the VP is just some damn good stuff 💯
I dont have a website or advertise my man... im on Instagram but I don't even post there anymore im too buried in work... its insane the demand for these saws
Re spitback-plates/baffles/etc: "If people wanna argue me that's fine" lol their loss!! I've been on quite a filters-kick, as you may've noticed from my Comments if you do read them, and was having trouble understanding why the Maxi's were SO much better when testing shows barely 2% gains over a basic OEM HD2 setup (and those setups do NOT have adequate air-entry to the air filter itself, unless modified as you [and I] have shown in other videos ie cutting entries/larger-entries to the filter area) So how could someone like you (trustworthy/knowledgeable) be loving them out-of-proportion to a mere 2% gain? LONGEVITY!! I wish I had means of testing, but after re-reading my 2-stroke books a few more times I now realize how parasitic a full 50% of our intake-cycle is, never realized that enlargement of intake-port(especially vertical enlargements) causes just as much increase in lost-charge to the intake-tract after TDC, as it does charge-induction into the crankcase when piston's approaching TDC.....that whole 2nd half of intake-open period is a wasteful/detrimental period (unless using reed intakes, of course, but they're uncommon on chainsaws) WHY do I mention this? Because, the more you *have* to open intake to feed a juiced-up engine, the more you're gonna be spraying back up through the carb, ergo the 'hotter'/faster an engine the more a foam element will shine (or, stated conversely, "the more a traditional element would get destroyed, even w/ very restrictive baffling, as that spray-back charge is under pressure and certainly escapes any OEM 'charge catch baffle' I've ever seen") So yeah I couldn't hope to measure/compare but would love seeing that 2% HP gain of the Maxi's turn to 5%, 10%+ after like 1 or 5 tanks of usage depending on what kinda cutting-conditions the saw is seeing. What do you think of this "ghetto compromise" for those of us who'd otherwise do nothing: instead of using those plastic OEM spitback plates to protect our fabric/flocked/synthetic air filters, what about simply using a piece of real high-porosity filter-foam instead? The hyway 660 filters actually come this way, they're basically just an HD2 that comes with a high-porosity partial insert to act as spitback-catcher, it's bright green so you can easily track its condition & clean as-appropriate, works a charm IMO I get more time out of a 660 filter than I care to admit/argue about! Thanks, as always, for such awesome content man, I always watch one of your vids before or while working on my stuff, your passion for the work is infectious! Will be dropping something special tonight (not my idea, will give proper credit when I post it) that is "beta version" as hell and I'll bet you're in one of the best positions to make it work reallll well (have even seen a new Makita unit trying to make use of the basic principles of this idea but my beta version still smokes theirs, hopefully you'll give me a critique once it's up I will certainly share a link just not publicly I don't think it'd be in good taste linking my own content here, heck I'm a member of your paid club I wanna support you, Bayou Country and a handful of the other heads of this niche!)
i appreciate the input as always... you always give me something to think about and i like that you can disagree but not be a dick about it... that is what i can't stand... there is a way to have a discussion and a way not to... i can have my mind changed all the time... hell i have it changed almost daily lol... i want what is best for the saw... as far as the foam style filters i really do use them for eliminating particles (debris ingestion) and that is it 100%... hell even if they hurt performance a little i would still use them because i have seen fine dust ruin so many cylinders... and although everyone says they keep razor sharp chains you just don;t know... I won't port a saw for someone if they won't run a filter upgrade... in fact I have only done 1 saw that ran a stock filter and that was a 500i and i had a long conversation with him and he convinced me he was very thorough with maintaining his filters... but I do hear the problems with the foam degrading and people also not oiling them properly... even guys putting the maxflow cage in wrong and totally ruining a saw because the filter was not sealing and those are downsides for sure... i have tried a few different mods to the cages and intakes and nothing is stand out better if you know what i mean... also i build a very purpose built saw... very specific... almost everyone running them is a production or wildfire guy and some bigger tree services and they want an easy starting but still rowdy saw and the most torque possible but still able to maintain decent RPM's... 90% of them are on the west coast and they have softer wood but bigger diameter and they dont really narrow towards the top like the trees here in the midwest... so they want to run a 36 but not have to carry a heavy saw like a 661... 461s and now 500s is the saw of choice and they also usually run 8 pin sprockets... so a lot of people that argue with the way i do things just dont understand that i do things the way i do for a reason and i do try to relay that point... lotta guys helped me to get to where i am at so i take offense to it more than i should no doubt... but i feel like they are insulting them... guys like Gordy at Westcoast Saw and Nick at Redbeard Saws helped me get to a different level and I am incredibly thankful for it.
Yep... I have told so many people to ditch that stuff... I have told my rep that its terrible and shown the results of running it vs even cheap mix oil... and deaf ears man... I don't get it
@@ricksanchez7459 of stihl mix??? Well... I would say mix it 40:1 and with very high quality fuel... and shake the cans and saws good before you use them... the stuff just doesn't mix with the fuel its so frustrating cuz I know they can do better
@@johnscustomsaws Yea I bought a whole case of silver stihl oil... its what we always used it was on sale and we are about to do a bunch of cutting. Thanks for the tips, I have some bel-ray ordered because hotsaws recommended.
@@ricksanchez7459 yeah I hear ya my man if it is a good deal its the time to buy... belray is goid stuff too definitely... Jack knows his stuff... nothing but respect for the guy... builds some damn good saws too 💯
Yessir... the man was kind enough to take me under his wing and I have learned so much from him... he didn't have to do it either so I have nothing but respect for the guy... and yes he is killing it!!! Its awesome you have some Westcoast builds... hang in to those 💯
@@johnscustomsaws I had a 660built by Gary Hunt when Hunt's saw shop was open. Best saw I ever ran. Got in a tight spot and sold it... Regret it ever since.
Should be throwing chips the soze of saltine crackers 😂 thats a badass saw!!Just bought an MS271 and....VP 50:1 so I should switch to 40:1 instead? and it's a helluva lot cheaper than the Stihl mix! Holy smokes that's spendy
I just got a brand new Stihl 500i and I want to get it ported. I have mods on the way and I want to go ahead and port it. Do you port saws and if you dont who do you recommend.
I bought a. 462 last year and love it except one thing...I use the 2 n 1 sharpener and it gets it very sharp then I even touch up the rakers old school and it cuts great for a handful of cuts then seems like I'm pushing way too hard to cut after that. It still puts out good chips but my Echo CS620 P is my other saw and it just keeps cutting through the same pieces like butter. On the 462 I'm running whatever Sthil chain that came with it, what other chain would you recommend because I think its a chain issue.
hey john ! i have a new ms 261 roughly 15 tanks through it doesn`t start on first pull when worm did that from day 1 anyway...runs very good,i tried leaning the l screw then richen it and no result either way...left it back on original position. any ideas? thanks
John what saw do you like more 461 462 or 661 and which is built better I like that 461 462 but the power of the 661 out of these 3 which would you recommend for purchase new thank you for all the great videos
Just bought one of these saws with repair kit for $100 at a yard sale its the 462 rescue version someone ran it with straight gas no oil the piston was scored and broke.
A $1500 saw and it does mighty fine out of the box. I've had my 462c-m for three years - no upgrades- and I think it would cut circles around that one. I meant to get the extra bucking spike, but haven't gotten around to it. I did modify my 170 with a side facing adjustment screw. I didn't think it would make a difference, but the stock adjustment screw get debris in it.
John, what are your thoughts on the Stihl hp ultra and the warranty that they have for 2 years if use the ultra? Is it worth ditching the warranty to run the VP when saw is under warranty?
Really... never tried it... what octane is it? And is it premix or straight fuel? I have used tru-fuel and mixed Motul snowmobile mix oil and that was good stuff too... never tried Aspen
@@alexstromberg7696 I use Aspen 2T premix also, but i add extra Motul M800 offroad 2T oil to it. Aspen uses 50:1 ratio 2% oil. That's too little for yanking all day with a saw. I add 43ml extra to the 5 liter mix. That makes it 35:1. 2.86%
@@alexstromberg7696 its because of EPA emission rules nowadays. I don't run 50:1 in 70cc saws. And in my dirtbikes, weedwackers I'm running 25:1. No matter what the dealers say. 50:1 will do the job. But if you have a small saw, don't yank it all day, cuzz the saw won't get old.
John great video as always, would there be any harm in switching my saws to the VP 40:1 after running 50:1 for so long. I have been down the rabbit hole with ratio and oils etc and you seem to reaffirm the info I’m seeing.
Is it the clear container trick? Lol I am the one that was telling people to do that... I brought it up to my stihl rep and they didn't really know what to say 🙄
@@johnscustomsaws no it’s a third party lab testing 6 of the top premix fuels. They test octane, aromatics, olefins etc. I sent it to you on Instagram messenger.
WCS is a GREAT company👍👍I’ve done business with them 👏☝️
How long does ported last compared to just factory saw .from 6 hp to what hp after ported is rpm same or more
Here in Germany, there is a Recall on some 462 and 391 Saws. Chainbreak may fail.
Talk to your Stihl Dealer which Modellnumber are to check.
I love my 462 I get the west coast stuff as well, just not the Port work.
Mine doesnt need any help. Lol. Just filter etc.
I have leaded & oxygenated VP 113 for racing.. Does anyone know if I can use leaded fuel in my 462?
Leaded fuel will not hurt your 462! Lead is added lubrication and run 50:1 ! Amsoil Saber! With VP 94 is a killer combo for a saw though!
@@eastsiderc thank you for the reply!
I too run Amsoil Sabor with 93 None Oxy…agreed! Switched from Stihl premium and I’m telling you it flat out runs better! Noticed same results with blower, and weed Whacter,and it smells good to boot.😊
I just bought a 462. All I can say is holy %&#$ .
How much?
2000$ aud
The WCS are selling the Stihl original parts as fallers suspension kit. Order the following parts from your local Stihl dealer:
1135 791 2800 - foam Star - 5,99$ (1×)
1144 791 3103 - Spring - 4,99$ (1×)
1133 791 5900 - rubber buffer - 5,99 $ (2×)
22,96$ - Total costs
WCS will charge you at least double price for their so-called suspension kit + sipping costs ✌️
I bought a slightly used 462 when they first came out that had supposedly been run on nothing but VP premix its whole life. Guy said the saw had less than five gallons through it.
It was carboned up bad inside. Piston had a healthy coat on top and the exhaust port was coated all the way around as well as the combustion chamber.
I cleaned it all up when I tossed the base gasket and it's been running bel-ray H1R at 44:1 for the last few years.
Bgd, muffler mod and airbox delete with wcs filter and it runs pretty stout. Just wish it was an R model.
What is the R model
@marksmall6981 wrap handle, bigger clutch cover and a bigger set of factory dawgs. And I believe they have a higher output oiler. Mine oils a 28 fine, though, and that's as big a bar as I will ever need.
At one time, Stihl made HO oilers. On the latest pro saw line up 462 and up they all have their one oiler and that's it, no more HO because they are ALL HO oilers thays why Stihl puts the roll pin there to set your max output, if you need all the oiler can give you pound that roll pin all the way in so you can now adjust the oiler all the aay up.
40:1 is the way to go. Use best oil money can buy and preferably alkylate gasoline meant for small engines. Why 40:1? Well, because 50:1 is too little and 30:1 is too much.
What is the price on your ported 462's?
I think the 462 stock run puts the test on 500l, I would love to see your saw ran up against one, great video!
Hey John, is there any benefit to the suspension upgrade if your not running a bar longer than a 25"? Also what's up with the fuel/oil mix. I've always ran the highest octane I can find at the pump and the Sthil premium syn recommended 50:1. I'm just a weekend warrior, firewood cutter but I like to take good care of my saws. The premix stuff is kinda pricey when I'm doing a lot of cutting. Would it be best to just eat the cost or is there a certain octane level I should be shooting for and a better oil I should run? Hell I just figured Sthil knew what they were doing. I run a 261,362,462,and a 500i, yeah I love my saws. Thanks for the awesome vids.
I wouldn't worry about the suspension if you are running a 25... its not really necessary... if you feel its too spongy then sure give it a try... the WCS air filter is the best product for the 462... I do not like the stihl mix... I have just seen too much evidence that its not the best... and I love stihl but I gotta call it like I see it my man
Yeah man I always ran the stihl ultra at 50:1 , thought it was great til my rod bearing went out on my 660 , Im done with that oil ,
I should add that I run my tune fat
Stihl recommends running mid grade 89 octane gas in their 50:1 mix. I go with that.
I run 93 none oxy with Amsoil Sabre..good stuff! But have experience with VP fuels on my snowmobile and it is fantastic fuel!!
The 462 had some cylinder problems early on didn't it?
I heard Stihl updated the saw and changed it a bit?
They did update the cylinder. I've run the piss out of mine with the original cylinder with no issues but I'm sure they did it for a reason.
Salsa sounds nice right now. LOL . Its a ripper for sure. Cheers
Is this or another for sale? I’m looking for a 462. Thanks
100% VP - I run it - side by side it walks all over any fuel you can get at the pump
Agreed my man... honestly its the only fuel I have actually noticed results in performance... I think its the perfect octane... lotta people don't realize a really high octane in saws will start to go backwards in performance... the VP is just some damn good stuff 💯
A 5gal can at Ace hardware is $80. It may have gone up over the last few months however. The VP fuel is the best.
The only validation you need is to just keep doing you.
John, forgive my ignorance. Where are you listed? I can't find your website anywhere. I have a 261 and a 661, looking for a built 462.
I dont have a website or advertise my man... im on Instagram but I don't even post there anymore im too buried in work... its insane the demand for these saws
Thanks for the glut of top content man, getting me through a boring day at home with COVID 👍🏻
Oh that sucks man... hope you feel better... got a few videos coming
Just bought one, and was wondering how much$ it would cost to do mine?
Has this saw been sent to Westcoast saws for internal porting ?? or are these just bolt ons ?
Re spitback-plates/baffles/etc: "If people wanna argue me that's fine" lol their loss!! I've been on quite a filters-kick, as you may've noticed from my Comments if you do read them, and was having trouble understanding why the Maxi's were SO much better when testing shows barely 2% gains over a basic OEM HD2 setup (and those setups do NOT have adequate air-entry to the air filter itself, unless modified as you [and I] have shown in other videos ie cutting entries/larger-entries to the filter area) So how could someone like you (trustworthy/knowledgeable) be loving them out-of-proportion to a mere 2% gain? LONGEVITY!! I wish I had means of testing, but after re-reading my 2-stroke books a few more times I now realize how parasitic a full 50% of our intake-cycle is, never realized that enlargement of intake-port(especially vertical enlargements) causes just as much increase in lost-charge to the intake-tract after TDC, as it does charge-induction into the crankcase when piston's approaching TDC.....that whole 2nd half of intake-open period is a wasteful/detrimental period (unless using reed intakes, of course, but they're uncommon on chainsaws) WHY do I mention this? Because, the more you *have* to open intake to feed a juiced-up engine, the more you're gonna be spraying back up through the carb, ergo the 'hotter'/faster an engine the more a foam element will shine (or, stated conversely, "the more a traditional element would get destroyed, even w/ very restrictive baffling, as that spray-back charge is under pressure and certainly escapes any OEM 'charge catch baffle' I've ever seen") So yeah I couldn't hope to measure/compare but would love seeing that 2% HP gain of the Maxi's turn to 5%, 10%+ after like 1 or 5 tanks of usage depending on what kinda cutting-conditions the saw is seeing.
What do you think of this "ghetto compromise" for those of us who'd otherwise do nothing: instead of using those plastic OEM spitback plates to protect our fabric/flocked/synthetic air filters, what about simply using a piece of real high-porosity filter-foam instead? The hyway 660 filters actually come this way, they're basically just an HD2 that comes with a high-porosity partial insert to act as spitback-catcher, it's bright green so you can easily track its condition & clean as-appropriate, works a charm IMO I get more time out of a 660 filter than I care to admit/argue about!
Thanks, as always, for such awesome content man, I always watch one of your vids before or while working on my stuff, your passion for the work is infectious! Will be dropping something special tonight (not my idea, will give proper credit when I post it) that is "beta version" as hell and I'll bet you're in one of the best positions to make it work reallll well (have even seen a new Makita unit trying to make use of the basic principles of this idea but my beta version still smokes theirs, hopefully you'll give me a critique once it's up I will certainly share a link just not publicly I don't think it'd be in good taste linking my own content here, heck I'm a member of your paid club I wanna support you, Bayou Country and a handful of the other heads of this niche!)
i appreciate the input as always... you always give me something to think about and i like that you can disagree but not be a dick about it... that is what i can't stand... there is a way to have a discussion and a way not to... i can have my mind changed all the time... hell i have it changed almost daily lol... i want what is best for the saw... as far as the foam style filters i really do use them for eliminating particles (debris ingestion) and that is it 100%... hell even if they hurt performance a little i would still use them because i have seen fine dust ruin so many cylinders... and although everyone says they keep razor sharp chains you just don;t know... I won't port a saw for someone if they won't run a filter upgrade... in fact I have only done 1 saw that ran a stock filter and that was a 500i and i had a long conversation with him and he convinced me he was very thorough with maintaining his filters... but I do hear the problems with the foam degrading and people also not oiling them properly... even guys putting the maxflow cage in wrong and totally ruining a saw because the filter was not sealing and those are downsides for sure... i have tried a few different mods to the cages and intakes and nothing is stand out better if you know what i mean... also i build a very purpose built saw... very specific... almost everyone running them is a production or wildfire guy and some bigger tree services and they want an easy starting but still rowdy saw and the most torque possible but still able to maintain decent RPM's... 90% of them are on the west coast and they have softer wood but bigger diameter and they dont really narrow towards the top like the trees here in the midwest... so they want to run a 36 but not have to carry a heavy saw like a 661... 461s and now 500s is the saw of choice and they also usually run 8 pin sprockets... so a lot of people that argue with the way i do things just dont understand that i do things the way i do for a reason and i do try to relay that point... lotta guys helped me to get to where i am at so i take offense to it more than i should no doubt... but i feel like they are insulting them... guys like Gordy at Westcoast Saw and Nick at Redbeard Saws helped me get to a different level and I am incredibly thankful for it.
The stihl mix is garbage it has ruined many a saw.
Yep... I have told so many people to ditch that stuff... I have told my rep that its terrible and shown the results of running it vs even cheap mix oil... and deaf ears man... I don't get it
Great, we just bought a case.
@@ricksanchez7459 of stihl mix??? Well... I would say mix it 40:1 and with very high quality fuel... and shake the cans and saws good before you use them... the stuff just doesn't mix with the fuel its so frustrating cuz I know they can do better
@@johnscustomsaws Yea I bought a whole case of silver stihl oil... its what we always used it was on sale and we are about to do a bunch of cutting. Thanks for the tips, I have some bel-ray ordered because hotsaws recommended.
@@ricksanchez7459 yeah I hear ya my man if it is a good deal its the time to buy... belray is goid stuff too definitely... Jack knows his stuff... nothing but respect for the guy... builds some damn good saws too 💯
Gordy is killin it!! Great guy too. He’s built me 3 saws. Build a mean work saw!
Yessir... the man was kind enough to take me under his wing and I have learned so much from him... he didn't have to do it either so I have nothing but respect for the guy... and yes he is killing it!!! Its awesome you have some Westcoast builds... hang in to those 💯
@@johnscustomsaws I had a 660built by Gary Hunt when Hunt's saw shop was open. Best saw I ever ran. Got in a tight spot and sold it... Regret it ever since.
@@chrisseger6870 I never met the man but Gary hunt is a legend In our area
@@tyler9623 just the little bit I talked to him, he was an amazing man. And that 660 he made me was the best saw. Ever.
Should be throwing chips the soze of saltine crackers 😂 thats a badass saw!!Just bought an MS271 and....VP 50:1 so I should switch to 40:1 instead? and it's a helluva lot cheaper than the Stihl mix! Holy smokes that's spendy
Cannot go wrong with 462
In wonder why you use the 40:1 vs 50:1?m I use this but the 50:1 and if you can help me with an understanding I will switch. Thank you.
I just got a brand new Stihl 500i and I want to get it ported. I have mods on the way and I want to go ahead and port it. Do you port saws and if you dont who do you recommend.
Bro you gotta check out opti 2 mix it is amazing it's a one mix for any 2 cycle engine and I sware by it and it covers 32:1-50:1
I run a 462 with a 28” bar, I do a lot of falling also, would I benefit whit the suspension kit? Also what is the benefit from the West Coast cover?
The West coast exhaust is loud but it gains a little bit more power over stock. It also helps cool the operating temperature
I believe the WCS clutch cover has more space and throws chips faster
You can buy that VP 40:1 in 5 gallon cans it's cheaper if you buy that way .
Hiya John can you help me? I’d like to be able to figure out how to choose timing numbers for a ms361
I bought a. 462 last year and love it except one thing...I use the 2 n 1 sharpener and it gets it very sharp then I even touch up the rakers old school and it cuts great for a handful of cuts then seems like I'm pushing way too hard to cut after that. It still puts out good chips but my Echo CS620 P is my other saw and it just keeps cutting through the same pieces like butter. On the 462 I'm running whatever Sthil chain that came with it, what other chain would you recommend because I think its a chain issue.
hey john ! i have a new ms 261 roughly 15 tanks through it doesn`t start on first pull when worm did that from day 1 anyway...runs very good,i tried leaning the l screw then richen it and no result either way...left it back on original position. any ideas? thanks
I'm going to order one of those filters with a suspension kit .
That's nasty!
Nice sawrus funtime cutting 👌
How do you copy something that’s great… then have it suck lmaoooo
I have a stock 462 and love it. I plan on getting it ported and better parts. Uk based
Who is the “other guy” making the exhaust covers? Egan?
Nice !
John what saw do you like more 461 462 or 661 and which is built better I like that 461 462 but the power of the 661 out of these 3 which would you recommend for purchase new thank you for all the great videos
😍
Just bought one of these saws with repair kit for $100 at a yard sale its the 462 rescue version someone ran it with straight gas no oil the piston was scored and broke.
John you know your shit and do good work it's that simple. Great videos too, thanks
Great info John, keep bust'n balls !!!! 30 miles east.
So Egan straight shit muffler is no good?
Damn....hard to say anything bad about ur work. Smokin
That 462 was very strong! Amazing work.
Stihl hp synthetic oil is junk
Where is Johne today?
Couldn't complain about that performance.
Now get a handlebar on it !
Sheeesh, that is awesome!!
Stihl oil is Castrol
That’s awesome John 👊🤘
Thanks for the content ❤️
A $1500 saw and it does mighty fine out of the box. I've had my 462c-m for three years - no upgrades- and I think it would cut circles around that one. I meant to get the extra bucking spike, but haven't gotten around to it. I did modify my 170 with a side facing adjustment screw. I didn't think it would make a difference, but the stock adjustment screw get debris in it.
John, what are your thoughts on the Stihl hp ultra and the warranty that they have for 2 years if use the ultra? Is it worth ditching the warranty to run the VP when saw is under warranty?
Yes…. Just buy it for the warranty… and then don’t use it
Dam good sales man!😂
Best fuel hands down is Aspen 2t. Nothing even comes close to it
Really... never tried it... what octane is it? And is it premix or straight fuel? I have used tru-fuel and mixed Motul snowmobile mix oil and that was good stuff too... never tried Aspen
@@johnscustomsaws it's RON95 octane and pre-mixed. It's also alkylate. They have 98 and 102 too.
@@alexstromberg7696 I use Aspen 2T premix also, but i add extra Motul M800 offroad 2T oil to it.
Aspen uses 50:1 ratio 2% oil. That's too little for yanking all day with a saw.
I add 43ml extra to the 5 liter mix. That makes it 35:1. 2.86%
@@africantwin173 saws are made to run 50:1 so i dont add any. Use it in a 1999 Husqvarna 55 with no problems. Everyone here uses it and it just works.
@@alexstromberg7696 its because of EPA emission rules nowadays. I don't run 50:1 in 70cc saws. And in my dirtbikes, weedwackers I'm running 25:1. No matter what the dealers say.
50:1 will do the job. But if you have a small saw, don't yank it all day, cuzz the saw won't get old.
Kick ass
What a ripper!
No joke at all..nice saw boi🤙🏻🪓😎
John great video as always, would there be any harm in switching my saws to the VP 40:1 after running 50:1 for so long. I have been down the rabbit hole with ratio and oils etc and you seem to reaffirm the info I’m seeing.
It Shouldn’t be a problem. Non ethanol gas mixed with your oil of choice.
No its just a bit more oil. Maybe a sligjt carb retune but thats easy if it needs it. Thats if it does if.
I run that VP stuff also. I love it. I’m going to send you a DM on Instagram about something interesting my buddy showed me on mix fuel and Stihl.
Is it the clear container trick? Lol I am the one that was telling people to do that... I brought it up to my stihl rep and they didn't really know what to say 🙄
@@johnscustomsaws no it’s a third party lab testing 6 of the top premix fuels. They test octane, aromatics, olefins etc. I sent it to you on Instagram messenger.
@@bryanmarks4070 oh nice.. whats your Instagram name? I have a million messages to go thru
@@johnscustomsaws it’s Bmarks01
I’d love to have those chips!! 🤙🏼 Solid saw, glad I purchased one.
I buy that VP fuel by the 5 gallons. It’s all I run
Schaeffer’s #9046 synthetic two stroke oil. Try it and you’ll be surprised!