Finally a Tru-Oil expert, There is a lot of people using Tru-Oil on UA-cam. But really only one with confidence, And that would be you Gordon! I have subscribed and am looking forward to learning some nice finishing technics Thanks for sharing!
It wouldn't harm anything. It's just not necessary and would likely all be rubbed off. We only oil the ebony fretboard 1-2 times (plenty). We oil the maple 4 times.
Hi Nice videos and Uke's! Used tru-oil on refinishing my acoustic guitar top! I've sanded to bare wood and gave at least 12 coats cause I've read that you can put the coats you want.The thing is, at the end I tryed buffing the top with a finishing compound and a foam pad to get a bit of gloss and the gloss never came out :( Checked some videos to see if I was doing something wrong but I think not. Even when buffing by hand still no gloss and the finish is a bit fuzzy. Can you give me your feel?
Hello and greatings from Argentina. I have a doubt, can I take more glossy finish polishing with some finish compound or something? Thanks and sorry for my poor english
Great video! Can you help me? To make this Tru-Oil process on my guitar neck (Ibanez Joe Satriani Series) I use the P600 sandpaper as a final grit or do you suggest other grit of sandpaper? Thanks!
This is going to sound like a dumb question but I notice you have a rubber glove on your oiling hand and a thick glove on the other? What is that heavy glove made of? Is it a lint free glove? After the 4th coat you say to use a light coat of lemon oil. Is it the fretboard oil?
Great video Gordon. It's great to get an insight of your methods and reasons behind them. Plus you work so fast lol. Looking forward to my next fix of the Unscripted series.
Just finished my Les Paul restore and I can tell you this Tru Oil is amazing stuff!!! So easy to work with assuming you prep correctly and take your time. I would steelwool between each thin coat and re-apply every three hours. Show the natural grain and for my likes needed no buffing out. Great stuff!!!
Just make sure the grain filler is compatible with tru-oil by doing a test piece. Yes, we tru-oil the bridge, but we do it separately. You don't want any oil residue in any joints or it will look ugly. Nearly impossible to do that with the bridge in place.
Great easy video. Just starting to finish my first uke, so I have a couple questions. Do you only apply one coat of fretboard oil, or do you do it with each of the four coats? Also, how long do you let the lemon oil sit before putting the bridge on? Do you do anything after the lemon oil, like hit it again lightly with steel wool? Thanks!
Only one coat of fretboard oil, after frets have been leveled and polished. I now do lemon oil as a final step after bridge is on and setup done. The lemon oil is really more of a maintenance step to add some shine to you instrument after finish has faded. Not really necessary on a newly finished instrument. No steel wool after lemon oil.
what i don't get is the sequence being used in the application..looks like you do head, neck,body...but you handle the neck post application...on early build up coats i don't see such a problem,because you steel wool rub... but on the final coat, wouldn't it make more sense to do the neck last,holding the uke through the tuner holes with maybe a chopstick before doing the neck,and hanging to dry,also what about resting the front/back on the scott shop towels while applying the final coat...same thing as the neck..lots of uneccessary surface contact...or does the final rub and buff deal with that issue...are you using the wool to buff the final finish coat as well, prior to using scratch remover paste, or are you using high #grit paper like 1200-1500 or higher.....also how long of a curing time are you allowing after the final oil coat before doing the final finish sand/wool rub/compounding etc...BTW.like the series
+Todd R. So, the first thing to remember is that we've done about 1500 of these in the way that we show, and the finish comes out beautifully. I think the key is that we are immediately wiping off all excess, and we are holding the instrument with the glove. We don't get any fingerprints or other marks on the instrument. I thought I answered all the step questions that you ask--we don't use scratch remover paste. We do steel wool after the final coat. 1200-1500 paper would be way, way too aggressive. We let the final coat cure 24 hours.
i can tell you that i used a water based dye on swamp ash and then used a tru-oil finish. been a year, hasnt fallen off yet lol i used yellow dye and tru-oil to butterscotch it a bit. worked well
Can Tru-oil be used on a maple fretboard to give it a hard shine like the new 2018 Fender Strat series has? If so how do you avoid getting any on the fret wires? On another note would the fret oil you used give it a hard shine like the Tru-oil?
Yes. I did it to a Squier standard strat with maple fingerboard. It is like an old fashioned poly finish but not gloopy as you can control it. It didnt collect on the frets as I put the oil on thin then rub off pretty quickly after so none stays on metal. I think I put on about 6-8 coats with a few hours in between...so over a couple of days.
Thank you. I have a walnut tele body from gutarbuild.uk. It's very nicely prepared. Can I apply the truoil without any prep, but sand down as you suggest with your magic steel wool?
+Mike Reeve Hi Mike. If you have more questions, send me an email (myamoeukuleles@gmail.com). Really I can comment too much on your question. I just know what we do, which I've documented. Not knowing or seeing your walnut tele body, I wound't want to give advice and have things not turn out correctly.
Good presentation! Thank you.
Finally a Tru-Oil expert, There is a lot of people using Tru-Oil on UA-cam. But really only one with confidence, And that would be you Gordon! I have subscribed and am looking forward to learning some nice finishing technics Thanks for sharing!
Daniel Day Lewis has a day job nice accent bloke
Good information, but in the video I would like to have seen the guitar with the finish at the end.
just curious if you have don rubio monocoat two part with the catalyst and if so whats your thouhts
I use the "original Scott shop towels". They are perfect. The newer ones are textured and don't work well at all.
But in this vedio, no pore filling? How u pore fill?
Does tru oil work different from danish oil? Danish oil gets sticky auiet fast, so its almost impossible to use it as you show here with tru oil
I have not had any problems with TruOil becoming sticky in the short time it takes to apply it.
It wouldn't harm anything. It's just not necessary and would likely all be rubbed off. We only oil the ebony fretboard 1-2 times (plenty). We oil the maple 4 times.
why lemon oil
Hand sanded using P600 and a sanding pad is the highest grit used. Always with the grain even up near where the neck joins the body
Hi Nice videos and Uke's!
Used tru-oil on refinishing my acoustic guitar top!
I've sanded to bare wood and gave at least 12 coats cause I've read that you can
put the coats you want.The thing is, at the end I tryed buffing the top with a finishing compound and a foam pad to get a bit of gloss and the gloss never came out :(
Checked some videos to see if I was doing something wrong but I think not. Even when buffing by hand still no gloss and the finish is a bit fuzzy. Can you give me your feel?
Hello and greatings from Argentina. I have a doubt, can I take more glossy finish polishing with some finish compound or something? Thanks and sorry for my poor english
Gordon. I have never found a good substitute for cloth rags for wiping the oil off in furniture finishing. What type of shop towels are you using?
Great video!
Can you help me? To make this Tru-Oil process on my guitar neck (Ibanez Joe Satriani Series) I use the P600 sandpaper as a final grit or do you suggest other grit of sandpaper?
Thanks!
This is going to sound like a dumb question but I notice you have a rubber glove on your oiling hand and a thick glove on the other? What is that heavy glove made of? Is it a lint free glove?
After the 4th coat you say to use a light coat of lemon oil. Is it the fretboard oil?
Great video Gordon. It's great to get an insight of your methods and reasons behind them. Plus you work so fast lol. Looking forward to my next fix of the Unscripted series.
Just finished my Les Paul restore and I can tell you this Tru Oil is amazing stuff!!! So easy to work with assuming you prep correctly and take your time. I would steelwool between each thin coat and re-apply every three hours. Show the natural grain and for my likes needed no buffing out. Great stuff!!!
Gordon, Would a 5th coat be harmful, or just unnecessary? Also, are you fret oiling 4 times also?
Thanks gordon just doing my first tru oil refinish on YC / sycamore tenor that had laquer
Thanks for sharing your method Gordon! Question; Are you using cami 600 or P600?
How could I polish the guitar body after use the Tru Oil? Thanks
Good tips. Helped me get a better finish on my most recent guitar build.
Very good. Quite useful. Thank you so much for teaching us.
hi gordon,
is it ok to apply grain filler before you apply tru-oil? is it ok to apply tru-oil on the bridge?
Just make sure the grain filler is compatible with tru-oil by doing a test piece. Yes, we tru-oil the bridge, but we do it separately. You don't want any oil residue in any joints or it will look ugly. Nearly impossible to do that with the bridge in place.
Great easy video. Just starting to finish my first uke, so I have a couple questions. Do you only apply one coat of fretboard oil, or do you do it with each of the four coats? Also, how long do you let the lemon oil sit before putting the bridge on? Do you do anything after the lemon oil, like hit it again lightly with steel wool? Thanks!
Only one coat of fretboard oil, after frets have been leveled and polished. I now do lemon oil as a final step after bridge is on and setup done. The lemon oil is really more of a maintenance step to add some shine to you instrument after finish has faded. Not really necessary on a newly finished instrument. No steel wool after lemon oil.
Helpful video,thanks
what i don't get is the sequence being used in the application..looks like you do head, neck,body...but you handle the neck post application...on early build up coats i don't see such a problem,because you steel wool rub... but on the final coat, wouldn't it make more sense to do the neck last,holding the uke through the tuner holes with maybe a chopstick before doing the neck,and hanging to dry,also what about resting the front/back on the scott shop towels while applying the final coat...same thing as the neck..lots of uneccessary surface contact...or does the final rub and buff deal with that issue...are you using the wool to buff the final finish coat as well, prior to using scratch remover paste, or are you using high #grit paper like 1200-1500 or higher.....also how long of a curing time are you allowing after the final oil coat before doing the final finish sand/wool rub/compounding etc...BTW.like the series
+Todd R. So, the first thing to remember is that we've done about 1500 of these in the way that we show, and the finish comes out beautifully. I think the key is that we are immediately wiping off all excess, and we are holding the instrument with the glove. We don't get any fingerprints or other marks on the instrument. I thought I answered all the step questions that you ask--we don't use scratch remover paste. We do steel wool after the final coat. 1200-1500 paper would be way, way too aggressive. We let the final coat cure 24 hours.
What's the time between coats 1 thru 3?
The unscripted series is awesome!
Very nice tutorial. Thanks.
Tru-Oil
I have a question to ask , I can paint the wood with a first oil-based dye and then apply Tru -oil ? the result will be the same ?
+Luis Alejandro Tolentino I have no idea. We don't ever dye or stain the wood.
ok thank you very much, greetings.
i can tell you that i used a water based dye on swamp ash and then used a tru-oil finish. been a year, hasnt fallen off yet lol i used yellow dye and tru-oil to butterscotch it a bit. worked well
Hi!
Your video is so good. I need a help. What kind of paper or cloth do you use? Thank you!
Scott original blue shop paper towels
Thank you so much!
Can Tru-oil be used on a maple fretboard to give it a hard shine like the new 2018 Fender Strat series has? If so how do you avoid getting any on the fret wires? On another note would the fret oil you used give it a hard shine like the Tru-oil?
Yes. I did it to a Squier standard strat with maple fingerboard. It is like an old fashioned poly finish but not gloopy as you can control it. It didnt collect on the frets as I put the oil on thin then rub off pretty quickly after so none stays on metal. I think I put on about 6-8 coats with a few hours in between...so over a couple of days.
hi gordon,
what brand of steel wool do you use?
It is Lustersheen--here's the web page:
www.lustersheen-online.com/xcart/product.php?productid=16246&cat=266&page=2
MyaMoeUkuleles are you using Grade 4/0? thanks
Good afternoon, what mix of turmoil to thinner do you use?
No thinner.
Thank you.
I have a walnut tele body from gutarbuild.uk. It's very nicely prepared. Can I apply the truoil without any prep, but sand down as you suggest with your magic steel wool?
+Mike Reeve Hi Mike. If you have more questions, send me an email (myamoeukuleles@gmail.com). Really I can comment too much on your question. I just know what we do, which I've documented. Not knowing or seeing your walnut tele body, I wound't want to give advice and have things not turn out correctly.