Also spinning the new bearings up with a drill for a couple of minutes will help get grease around the bearing and seal them as pivot bearings only move a fraction of there travel.
Guys i have looked for a good frame bearing video for years that wasn’t full of hacks and crap home made tool. This was amazing. Thank you so much! Well done.
Love your way you explain things ! Just one remark: When your bearings are worn out, there can be some surprising situations when you try to replace them. So better be sure you have another bike to ride in case something goes wrong. It´s so hard to tell your mates you can not join them because your bike is separated and you don´t have a spare...
Huge thank you Doddy... I was off the bike for a couple of years and now that I am back I noticed an awful squeak when I pedal the uphil. Long story short, I had 3 frame bearings completely seized from rust. I performed the "guetto repair" from your other video and they are working great. I will order new bearings soon however, but my rides uphill are now more pleasant and quiet.
Another great video! I have the same extraction tool for my RIP 9 (all bearings the same size..... awesome) but instead of buying the $100 handle, I bought a bolt, nut and washers for $3 that works awesome.
Hey Thunder, quick question. I have no doubts a threaded rod nuts and washers would work just fine for inserting bearing but what about the extraction? If you dont have that hallow cap that let the bearing slide out into it, it wouldn't work. Unless I am missing something... On a side note, I was a machinist for a short while and a tool like that would be easy to make. I don't have access to a lathe but a friend of mine works in a machine shop. I could make some on demands ans sell dirty cheap hehe
I bought the red and blue RapidRacerProducts puller and installer set of presses just like Doddy has in this video..... I just didn't buy the expensive handle that is in the video, I just used the bolt, nut and washers to form a "ghetto" compression tool to compress the red and blue parts for removal and then installation. That cool handle & threaded rod Doddy used is like $100.
I also have a strive CF 2016. Planning to soon replace all the bearings. Where did you get them? Can them be bought in a kit from canyon? Did you use the inner bearing extraxtor also for the bearing in the pivot close to the bottom bracket ? (sorry for poor english, hope you understood me)
Actual Bearing removal starts at 9:50 Also, as a tip from experience, when opening the bolt at the top of the seat stay, that connects to the suspension drive, leave the back wheel in place, it'll stop it spreading and the bolt will open easier. No matter how well I have maintained the bearings there, it has always been hard to open.
Exactly what i needed now, thanks. Interestingly, all bearings on the right side of my canyon torque are absolutely done, while all on the left are running smooth🤔
so true ... and you can also gently heat links and what not (in the oven... ... just do when the wife is away LoL) , much to the same effect... Yay thermal expansion and contraction !!
John Davis , not sure i understand the question, but i'll give a more in depth explanation ... @ 0:50 doddy holds a "rocker" or "link" . If you gently heat this part , the "hole", as it were, will be a few thousandths larger in inside diameter , allowing the bearing to slide in easier. As the material cools it will shrink back to its original size. This can also be helpful when extracting a bearing, if you can heat the link without also heating the bearing. This only works for steel or alloy links, and should not be taken to extremes. "Gently heated" means still being able to hold in ones hand, or "almost" too hot to touch, and not hot enough to change the "temper" of the alloy. Care must be taken not to get the alloy parts too hot, resulting in a change in the metals base properties , and this method should never be used for any carbon material ... to be honest, this method should rarely need to be used, but it can, and is, when things prove difficult. Of course it is always necessary to be sure you have the correct size bearings, and it is never a good idea to "force the issue"... If it does not fit, all of the Thermal Expansion and Contraction in the world will not make it fit .. LOL ... i hope this might be of some clarification ...
Levin Gamm :-D yes ! another great idea !! and good for peeling decals off without a gooey mess !! (but also best to use when the wife is away hahaha !! they tend to get suddenly very interested in whats going on when you start using the oven, or the hair drier and or putting parts in the freezer LOL !!)
Just regreased my pivot bearings and after that had to go up 50psi to get the correct sag for me. I heard some creaking from my bearings and they were really dry. My bearings were also tightened way too tight so bare in mind that usually the bolt next to the bearings need to be tightened between only 8NM-20NM. Check from manufacture your correct NM.
Another great video Doddy, I will definitely be shopping around for one of those tools, I had the bearings in the swing-link of my Stumpjumper replaced by my LBS, I got it back all beat up, it didn't have a scratch on it before, obviously they didn't have the proper tools and just used a punch and hammer, or something similar, needless to say I'm not trusting them with my new Pivot Mach 5.5, and I still have the rest of the bearings to replace on the Stumpy.
Id recommend trying to put loctite into the thread the bolt is attaching to, that way you dont smear it all up the inside of the bearing race and essentially "stick" the bolt to the bearing and not the threads
Shouldn't bearing be pushed away by pushing the outer ring? Pushing by inner can just push-out balls and inner ring leaving outer ring in frame and destroy whole bearing.
If my frame had internal cables in the rear end, I would probably try and keep the part of the linkage dangeling on the cables while changing the bearings. Not as nice to work on, but still ten times better than reinstalling that internal mess and bleeding the brakes.
Doddy Great video but what about removing the back to back bearings on a canyon strive's chainstay? I can't find any information about removing those, ive tried blind hole bearing puller but no chance. Help please
Great to have this "de-mystified". I admit I probably won't make the investment in tools or time, I feel l will be more informed when getting help from my LBS. GMBN should get a local rider who's bike needs the actual work to lend it for these videos.
Hi Doddy. Thank you for the video. It is very nicely explained and I think that many people now will be able to do the bearing service by themselves. I did this couple of times on some of the bearings on my bike and recently did my main pivot bearings on swing arm. There are two bearings one fitted nicely but the second one was quite easy to press back in I was able to do it just by fingers there is no play in it but now wander if is this ok?
In rear suspension systems full load/max load bearings should be used. Enduro LLU MAX have the largest range of this type of bearing and they just so happen to be some of the best avaliable, expect to pay £60+ for 10 pieces. £20 Ebay and Amazon bearing sets will only mean you are back in there in no time at all.
After doing the same, I found it was the RRP kit. But it's not a complete that I can tell & it's stupid expensive. Buy the Tenybike one off Amazon (I hate Amazon but make the exception) and then take the center metal threaded rod out and go to the hardware store and buy a rod with the same pitch that is as short as the one in this video. You'll have everything you need to press bottom brackets and then tiny stuff like this. It made replacing all the bearings on my Kona so very simple.
Maintain your bike better and use some grease or anti seize paste on the threads of the bolts next time. If the bolts have locktite on them, clean the old one off the threads, apply a drop of new one and torque to the specs.
Lovin the channel. Big help because I'm learning loads. You save me money. I love learning how to fix my bike. This job I have been try to find out to do. Big thank you, as know i can do it . Top man :-0
I would just make sure you use adequate water resistant grease when doing the job. I spray silicone spray around pivots and bearings and wipe off the excess. And don't pressure wash water and dirt INTO your bearings. I've ridden dirt bikes for 40 odd years and I'm a qualified motorcycle mechanic. Grease helps the seals keep out water and crud from the delicate balls or rollers. Give them a helping hand.
What concerns me about the extraction tool is that it is placing the force on the inner race when the bearings are press fit to the frame by the outer race. If you are tossing the bearings, no big deal. But if you plan on reusing them, the tool should press them out using the same race that is pressed into the frame. In this application, I think you would need to use a bearing puller, as the flanged bearing doesn't have the outer race accessible from the inner part of the assembly. ADHD version: Only extract your bearings with that tool if you intend on replacing the bearings.
The frame or whatever the bearings set in often times have a lip that they rest against. You can not press on the outer race in this case because it is covered by that lip. Have to press on the inner race.
Doddy is using what I think is the RRP BEARING PRESS EXTRACTION TOOL, available on Amazon for £59.47, actual bearing sleeves etc are sold separately for around £23 Hand Tool - www.amazon.co.uk/RRP-BEARING-PRESS-EXTRACTION-TOOL/dp/B00Z6DFOOS Rapid Racer Bearing Kit - www.amazon.co.uk/RapidRacerProducts-Bearing-Kit/dp/B00W4HU7PU/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=RapidRacerProducts+Bearing+Kit&qid=1556342495&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Brilliant video Doddy! just bagged myself a used 18 Nukeproof mega frame in identical colours to yours, so this is a pretty easy how to to follow; Time to find out what the bearing sizes are for the pivots. What are the RRP bearing adaptor kit numbers for the mega?
If you don't need the bearing any more, a metal drill might help. Be careful of course, and have a look at the frame (without bearings) before starting (in manuals, friends, etc)
Thanks doddy great video! The only one I have seen for megas which comes in handy for me as I have the 275 2018 comp. Can you do a video on installing tokens in your super deluxe shock? My bike has the same one and I need to put some in as I am bottoming out easily , they are different to the other rockshox shocks as they have actual tokens rather than bands. Also you could service it and show us how to do it. Love the channel learnt a lot and you explain things well cheers!
Hey doddy...those small black washers....where did they come from? I have stripped my commencal meta v4 for paint and I am now installing complete new beatings all around. I cannot for the life of me remember where the small black washers go? Where did yours go...obviously may not be the same location but it might give me a clue to mine! Where can I purchase that bearing tool kit??? Thankyou very much....great video by the way!
I have a question about the grease on the outside of the bearing. Would it be better to have something like Locktite 603 rubbed in the frame instead of grease before setting the bearing back in the frame so all the pivoting action will happen inside the bearing instead of possibly having the outer casing of the bearing spin and wear on frame?
No. The liquid can seep into the bearing during installation and isn’t worth the hassle. Pure friction is enough to hold the bearings in place. Cheers.
Looking forward for the DIY bearing puller,but how do you remove the bearings on the main pivot, on the frame. I have no idea how those ones would come out or what tool is needed.
I've done the bearings one at a time with the rear end in place. It is a bit simpler than dismantling the back of the bike but it can make things a little fiddly depending on the bikes frame design. It is a lot easier with the part off the bike and it means you can inspect for damage etc. but it does obviously mean undoing lots of clips and hoses. You could say six and two threes but it's always best to check for damage (cracks etc.) which is a lot easier and more effective with the part off the bike.
Fab vid. One question - how can one remove when twin bearings back to back in pivot linkage. Easy when just one - but when twin bearings and spring washer in between ? Anyone any idea / any u-tube on that?
I think this is an excellent example of how to support your local bike shop. Mostly because it takes bloody ages, there's so much chance to horrifically mess things up, and you need so many tools!!
Zac Youngson maybe- but anything that needs a specialised tool, I'll take it to the lbs for the exact reason above! To paraphrase- "you'll miss them when they're gone"
Special tool prizes are often lower than LBS service costs (depending on where you are, of course). Moreover, shops don't always work that careful either, and they may take ages to get things done, which one can do in the evening at home. Therefore, DIY > LBS ;)
koko lores all true, but the saving isn't really the point, I do actually want to support them 🙂 And maybe they're not that careful, but that's because they've done it before, and if they ruin my bike then I know they have insurance to replace it :)
Pulling a perfectly good bearing. You really need a project bike. Bearings can be bashed in/out on an old steel bike, but on carbon fibre or aluminium I'd be using a tool.
links to where we could look up or buy bearings would be great. i have a giant trance and i can't find ANY information about how/where to buy pivot suspension bearings :(
Get to the bearings and take a picture, zoom in and the rubber part of the bearing has the number and type of bearing you need, in the US amazon has everything. I replaced all my bearings, linkage and wheels. Hope it helps
In some cases bearings need to be installed using a primer and and activator compound (for example Canondale Scalpel carbon manual states Loctite Primer 7649 and Loctite 609 must be used). In what cases is this true? Not all frames have manuals. So in what cases must a primer be used? As far as I understand when the bearing is installed into carbon a primer must be used. Thanks
" *Lucky* enough to have internal cable routing" - Riiiight, neverending fun and convenience in a nutshell!
Space Cowboy i heard "UNlucky enough"
instablaster...
@@matthewkuhl79 lmao he does first say "if you're lucky enough" but then at the end says "if you're unlucky enough". Hope that was intentional haha.
You don't need to take it right off the bike. All the stuff is designed to pivot. Pivot it to a position to access the bearings.
Also spinning the new bearings up with a drill for a couple of minutes will help get grease around the bearing and seal them as pivot bearings only move a fraction of there travel.
Guys i have looked for a good frame bearing video for years that wasn’t full of hacks and crap home made tool. This was amazing. Thank you so much! Well done.
Made my bearing press with two ring spannners, a 10mm axle, a few washers and the nuts. Works like a charm.
Have a hardtail. Still watched the whole video. I dig the techy nerd stuff.
Krigloch theFurious Same 😂
I'll trump that, don't even own a bike atm 😂😂😂😂
I don’t have a bike
Love your way you explain things ! Just one remark: When your bearings are worn out, there can be some surprising situations when you try to replace them. So better be sure you have another bike to ride in case something goes wrong. It´s so hard to tell your mates you can not join them because your bike is separated and you don´t have a spare...
Huge thank you Doddy... I was off the bike for a couple of years and now that I am back I noticed an awful squeak when I pedal the uphil. Long story short, I had 3 frame bearings completely seized from rust. I performed the "guetto repair" from your other video and they are working great. I will order new bearings soon however, but my rides uphill are now more pleasant and quiet.
can you put the link for the ghetto repair?
just ordered that tool for my job! thanks Doddy!
Great video as always. Any chance of a link to, or the name of that little bearing puller/press you used. Cheers
Would be great if you can link the special tools you use!
www.rapidracerproducts.com/products/tools/bpet.html
Another great video! I have the same extraction tool for my RIP 9 (all bearings the same size..... awesome) but instead of buying the $100 handle, I bought a bolt, nut and washers for $3 that works awesome.
Hi Gabriel Karny. I have Canyon spectral also need inner bearing extractor. Could you give me a link where I can buy that tool Pls. Cheers.
Cheers pal
Hey Thunder, quick question. I have no doubts a threaded rod nuts and washers would work just fine for inserting bearing but what about the extraction? If you dont have that hallow cap that let the bearing slide out into it, it wouldn't work. Unless I am missing something... On a side note, I was a machinist for a short while and a tool like that would be easy to make. I don't have access to a lathe but a friend of mine works in a machine shop. I could make some on demands ans sell dirty cheap hehe
I bought the red and blue RapidRacerProducts puller and installer set of presses just like Doddy has in this video..... I just didn't buy the expensive handle that is in the video, I just used the bolt, nut and washers to form a "ghetto" compression tool to compress the red and blue parts for removal and then installation. That cool handle & threaded rod Doddy used is like $100.
I also have a strive CF 2016. Planning to soon replace all the bearings. Where did you get them? Can them be bought in a kit from canyon? Did you use the inner bearing extraxtor also for the bearing in the pivot close to the bottom bracket ? (sorry for poor english, hope you understood me)
Great video, I'll be doing this on my Intense...with the RRP tools you used here, thanks Doddy!
Hey Greg, We're glad you found it useful! Good luck and safe riding! 👍
for extracting all you need is a cut out from plastic tube of different size. then use a and an hub bearing press to remove it.
You can also use sockets if they fit your bearings
If you have enough different sockets…they fit your bearings! :)
Just watch with the sockets, as they often have rounded edges and they don't always push exclusively on the outer race.
Actual Bearing removal starts at 9:50
Also, as a tip from experience, when opening the bolt at the top of the seat stay, that connects to the suspension drive, leave the back wheel in place, it'll stop it spreading and the bolt will open easier. No matter how well I have maintained the bearings there, it has always been hard to open.
Just did a full bearing change on my 2017 trek remedy. I used that bearing removal tool and it made it so easy.
What tools were they?
Craig can you link the tool?
Great video thanks! Could you do a video on how to bleed hope tech 3 e4 brakes please...
this gives me the confidence to take apart and check my bike thanks doddy!
I use a G-Clamp and bits of scrap wood to put bearings in. Not foolproof, but I've never had an issue.
Exactly what i needed now, thanks. Interestingly, all bearings on the right side of my canyon torque are absolutely done, while all on the left are running smooth🤔
Guess you dangle right bud.
Very nice video Doddy, I'm not though too confident doing that but till there's no play or its smooth, I don't care
Did you ever make a video for how to make a DIY bearing press as you say in the vid?
Excellent video, thank you very much, removes the taboo from such things!
You are awesome... ❤️.
The way you work is too neat and tidy
Another nice life hack is to put the bearings in the freezer before you install them. Then you can push it more easily in
Nice tip!
so true ... and you can also gently heat links and what not (in the oven... ... just do when the wife is away LoL) , much to the same effect... Yay thermal expansion and contraction !!
John Davis , not sure i understand the question, but i'll give a more in depth explanation ... @ 0:50 doddy holds a "rocker" or "link" . If you gently heat this part , the "hole", as it were, will be a few thousandths larger in inside diameter , allowing the bearing to slide in easier. As the material cools it will shrink back to its original size. This can also be helpful when extracting a bearing, if you can heat the link without also heating the bearing.
This only works for steel or alloy links, and should not be taken to extremes. "Gently heated" means still being able to hold in ones hand, or "almost" too hot to touch, and not hot enough to change the "temper" of the alloy. Care must be taken not to get the alloy parts too hot, resulting in a change in the metals base properties , and this method should never be used for any carbon material ... to be honest, this method should rarely need to be used, but it can, and is, when things prove difficult. Of course it is always necessary to be sure you have the correct size bearings, and it is never a good idea to "force the issue"... If it does not fit, all of the Thermal Expansion and Contraction in the world will not make it fit .. LOL ... i hope this might be of some clarification ...
Flying Tiger I would use a hair dryer then it is not to hot
Levin Gamm :-D yes ! another great idea !! and good for peeling decals off without a gooey mess !! (but also best to use when the wife is away hahaha !! they tend to get suddenly very interested in whats going on when you start using the oven, or the hair drier and or putting parts in the freezer LOL !!)
Just regreased my pivot bearings and after that had to go up 50psi to get the correct sag for me. I heard some creaking from my bearings and they were really dry. My bearings were also tightened way too tight so bare in mind that usually the bolt next to the bearings need to be tightened between only 8NM-20NM. Check from manufacture your correct NM.
Hey Doddy, where can I get a bearing removal kit like yours...???
Another great video Doddy, I will definitely be shopping around for one of those tools, I had the bearings in the swing-link of my Stumpjumper replaced by my LBS, I got it back all beat up, it didn't have a scratch on it before, obviously they didn't have the proper tools and just used a punch and hammer, or something similar, needless to say I'm not trusting them with my new Pivot Mach 5.5, and I still have the rest of the bearings to replace on the Stumpy.
Tenybike bearing press. Watched this video. Borrowed the Tenybike kit and zoom. Done.
Can you make a video on how to change spring in a coil fork
If you take apart the linkage at the rear axle before removing the whole thing from the bike, it will save you having to break your chain.
Id recommend trying to put loctite into the thread the bolt is attaching to, that way you dont smear it all up the inside of the bearing race and essentially "stick" the bolt to the bearing and not the threads
Another brilliant video!
You should press the new bearings in on the outer race not the inner race. Pressing on the inner race can damage the bearings.
Awesome Doddy! It's sooo nice when you have the proper tool for the job! It makes it so easy!
Cheers.
have no pivots, using cx bike, but still, very educational info!
Shouldn't bearing be pushed away by pushing the outer ring?
Pushing by inner can just push-out balls and inner ring leaving outer ring in frame and destroy whole bearing.
If my frame had internal cables in the rear end, I would probably try and keep the part of the linkage dangeling on the cables while changing the bearings. Not as nice to work on, but still ten times better than reinstalling that internal mess and bleeding the brakes.
I was thinking this - why would you detach it all? Creates a lot more work for yourself!
Doddy
Great video but what about removing the back to back bearings on a canyon strive's chainstay? I can't find any information about removing those, ive tried blind hole bearing puller but no chance. Help please
Great to have this "de-mystified". I admit I probably won't make the investment in tools or time, I feel l will be more informed when getting help from my LBS. GMBN should get a local rider who's bike needs the actual work to lend it for these videos.
Newt Tella I’m not a local but I volunteer anyway!
Patrick Sheard 😁
Yep I'm just gonna take it to the bike shop
Hi Doddy. Thank you for the video. It is very nicely explained and I think that many people now will be able to do the bearing service by themselves. I did this couple of times on some of the bearings on my bike and recently did my main pivot bearings on swing arm. There are two bearings one fitted nicely but the second one was quite easy to press back in I was able to do it just by fingers there is no play in it but now wander if is this ok?
In rear suspension systems
full load/max load bearings should be used.
Enduro LLU MAX have the largest range of this type of bearing and they just so happen to be some of the best avaliable, expect to pay £60+ for 10 pieces.
£20 Ebay and Amazon bearing sets will only mean you are back in there in no time at all.
What is the tool, can you leave a link or name ? I've been searching the net for a compact bearing press. Thx in advance 🙏
After doing the same, I found it was the RRP kit. But it's not a complete that I can tell & it's stupid expensive. Buy the Tenybike one off Amazon (I hate Amazon but make the exception) and then take the center metal threaded rod out and go to the hardware store and buy a rod with the same pitch that is as short as the one in this video.
You'll have everything you need to press bottom brackets and then tiny stuff like this. It made replacing all the bearings on my Kona so very simple.
@@butchgreene could you please leave a link, cant find it.
@@jakubadamek899 www.rapidracerproducts.com/products/tools/bpet.html
I found it available for sale on chain reaction cycles fyi
Have you made the video on the diy bearing press/removal tool? Can't seem to find it.
You should discuss how to remove stubborn bolts so that you can get to the bearings.
Maintain your bike better and use some grease or anti seize paste on the threads of the bolts next time. If the bolts have locktite on them, clean the old one off the threads, apply a drop of new one and torque to the specs.
Thanks guys!! Super appreciate this video 👌
Lovin the channel. Big help because I'm learning loads. You save me money. I love learning how to fix my bike. This job I have been try to find out to do. Big thank you, as know i can do it . Top man :-0
about damn time for my freehub body bearings to be replaced!
Brilliant video cheers Doddy!!
Great video! But I have an EBike with internal cable routing. Off to the shop it goes!🤣
Very well done ! Beautiful video ! I am still looking for a specialist to do it on my bike, though ! I don't have these tools ! :-)
Thanks for the tips 🤙 keep up the videos
Very helpful video 👍 would putting some grease around the outside of the bearing help keep the water out or would this attract too much dirt? Cheers
I would just make sure you use adequate water resistant grease when doing the job. I spray silicone spray around pivots and bearings and wipe off the excess. And don't pressure wash water and dirt INTO your bearings. I've ridden dirt bikes for 40 odd years and I'm a qualified motorcycle mechanic. Grease helps the seals keep out water and crud from the delicate balls or rollers. Give them a helping hand.
Where can I find the tools to remove and insert bearings?
Lol. 20 lols.
You can make them.
Thanks for fulfilling my request!
Hi,
Can you add the link for the bearing extraction tool?
thank you!
RRP Bearing Press Tool (rapid racer products)
Azin in the Woods now the most commonly bought bearing press tool in the world. 😅
you have promissed a video on how to make this tool. where is it ?
press part is easy, what about extraction part ? the rrp is terribly expensive
Another great vid Doddy.
What concerns me about the extraction tool is that it is placing the force on the inner race when the bearings are press fit to the frame by the outer race.
If you are tossing the bearings, no big deal. But if you plan on reusing them, the tool should press them out using the same race that is pressed into the frame.
In this application, I think you would need to use a bearing puller, as the flanged bearing doesn't have the outer race accessible from the inner part of the assembly.
ADHD version: Only extract your bearings with that tool if you intend on replacing the bearings.
i had the same concern, never pull on the inner race of a bearing.
The frame or whatever the bearings set in often times have a lip that they rest against. You can not press on the outer race in this case because it is covered by that lip. Have to press on the inner race.
Thanks for a great vid. Love watching and learning. Are you able to share what tool you used? I would like to by the same one.
Where did you get your tools
Doddy is using what I think is the RRP BEARING PRESS EXTRACTION TOOL, available on Amazon for £59.47, actual bearing sleeves etc are sold separately for around £23
Hand Tool - www.amazon.co.uk/RRP-BEARING-PRESS-EXTRACTION-TOOL/dp/B00Z6DFOOS
Rapid Racer Bearing Kit - www.amazon.co.uk/RapidRacerProducts-Bearing-Kit/dp/B00W4HU7PU/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=RapidRacerProducts+Bearing+Kit&qid=1556342495&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Brilliant video Doddy! just bagged myself a used 18 Nukeproof mega frame in identical colours to yours, so this is a pretty easy how to to follow; Time to find out what the bearing sizes are for the pivots. What are the RRP bearing adaptor kit numbers for the mega?
Hi, I’ve also got an 18 mega, did you manage to find out?
Hi where can I buy that handy tool remover?
Excelente video !!!
Can you not add tool links in the description?
Great tech video love the channel I’ve got a nukeproof mega tr275 can you do a video on how to remove a seized main pivot bearing pin?
If you don't need the bearing any more, a metal drill might help. Be careful of course, and have a look at the frame (without bearings) before starting (in manuals, friends, etc)
Did I miss him use the threadlocker that he said he needed in addition to grease?
Make all my own bearing extractors and installers on my lathe 😊🤙 . Cost me nothing!
Well... the materials have to cost something...
Just watching this video thinking 'I need a lathe.' Well played sir.
Could you give me the link to buy this compact tool for frame bearing removal please
Thanks doddy great video! The only one I have seen for megas which comes in handy for me as I have the 275 2018 comp.
Can you do a video on installing tokens in your super deluxe shock? My bike has the same one and I need to put some in as I am bottoming out easily , they are different to the other rockshox shocks as they have actual tokens rather than bands. Also you could service it and show us how to do it. Love the channel learnt a lot and you explain things well cheers!
Hey doddy...those small black washers....where did they come from? I have stripped my commencal meta v4 for paint and I am now installing complete new beatings all around. I cannot for the life of me remember where the small black washers go? Where did yours go...obviously may not be the same location but it might give me a clue to mine!
Where can I purchase that bearing tool kit???
Thankyou very much....great video by the way!
Should i grease bearing's seat in carbon frame ? some says that grease could affect resin...
What bearing press do you use?
Sure would be nice to know where to buy that tool (extractor/press) from...
Who knows where can get that compact bearing extractor /installation tool or something similar? Link?
Did you ever get around to showing how to make a beating puller? It says in this you would, but I can’t find it?
What's that black piece called that holds the rear shock.
That frame has a Days of Thunder colour scheme!
I have a question about the grease on the outside of the bearing. Would it be better to have something like Locktite 603 rubbed in the frame instead of grease before setting the bearing back in the frame so all the pivoting action will happen inside the bearing instead of possibly having the outer casing of the bearing spin and wear on frame?
No. The liquid can seep into the bearing during installation and isn’t worth the hassle. Pure friction is enough to hold the bearings in place. Cheers.
Not necessary unless it's loose in the housing.
What is the manufacturer of that compact bearing extraction set ?
Looking forward for the DIY bearing puller,but how do you remove the bearings on the main pivot, on the frame. I have no idea how those ones would come out or what tool is needed.
Where to buy those bearing tools.?
What about the bushings on the swing? Just clean re-grease?
What is the problem doing this without full dismantling of the rear end, except for a slightly less comfortable working space?
I've done the bearings one at a time with the rear end in place. It is a bit simpler than dismantling the back of the bike but it can make things a little fiddly depending on the bikes frame design. It is a lot easier with the part off the bike and it means you can inspect for damage etc. but it does obviously mean undoing lots of clips and hoses. You could say six and two threes but it's always best to check for damage (cracks etc.) which is a lot easier and more effective with the part off the bike.
Fab vid. One question - how can one remove when twin bearings back to back in pivot linkage. Easy when just one - but when twin bearings and spring washer in between ? Anyone any idea / any u-tube on that?
Blind bearing puller
Do you have a link to that tool?
Theo Lupu RRP bearing press
It could be worth mentioning that it's necessary to remove the old thread locker before applying new. Heat works for this.
could you put a link in the description of the home mini press you use in the video please?
I used full complement bearings last time I changed mine as opposed to the more normal (and cheaper) wheel bearing type, do you recommend this?
I think this is an excellent example of how to support your local bike shop. Mostly because it takes bloody ages, there's so much chance to horrifically mess things up, and you need so many tools!!
toasty bear maybe your just shit at working on bikes ?
Zac Youngson maybe- but anything that needs a specialised tool, I'll take it to the lbs for the exact reason above!
To paraphrase- "you'll miss them when they're gone"
Special tool prizes are often lower than LBS service costs (depending on where you are, of course). Moreover, shops don't always work that careful either, and they may take ages to get things done, which one can do in the evening at home. Therefore, DIY > LBS ;)
koko lores all true, but the saving isn't really the point, I do actually want to support them 🙂
And maybe they're not that careful, but that's because they've done it before, and if they ruin my bike then I know they have insurance to replace it :)
Toasty bear, except if they say it was damaged before. Good luck proving them wrong, since they are the "experts"...
My 2021 canyon spectral cf7 has two bearings sandwiche together in the rear triangle, any idea how to get those out??
Put your bearings in the freezer for 1 night.
Pulling a perfectly good bearing. You really need a project bike. Bearings can be bashed in/out on an old steel bike, but on carbon fibre or aluminium I'd be using a tool.
links to where we could look up or buy bearings would be great. i have a giant trance and i can't find ANY information about how/where to buy pivot suspension bearings :(
Get to the bearings and take a picture, zoom in and the rubber part of the bearing has the number and type of bearing you need, in the US amazon has everything. I replaced all my bearings, linkage and wheels. Hope it helps
some manufacturers sell their bearings on their website, see Commencal and Orbea.
Can you replace a pivot copper bushing with a bearing on a Kent full suspension bike
Long and fat bolt plus matching nut and a few washers. Total cost 2 bucks.
Great vid man. Who makes the bearing press you showed in the video and on the dirt shed show?
In some cases bearings need to be installed using a primer and and activator compound (for example Canondale Scalpel carbon manual states Loctite Primer 7649 and Loctite 609 must be used).
In what cases is this true? Not all frames have manuals. So in what cases must a primer be used? As far as I understand when the bearing is installed into carbon a primer must be used.
Thanks
Any links to the tools used in this video?
@GMBNTech What's the brand of this compact bearing press you're using in this video? Thx.
Where can I buy the tool thanks