Awesome diagnosis! My dryer doesn't carry a full load but dries intermittently but very seldom (gotta check my wiring)!!! Thanks Think a single chick can do it? Will try and post....would love some encouragement from you dudes!
Could be a problem with the vent, too. If too much back pressure, this retains heat in the dryer and the safety devices will cut heat. Good place to go for more detailed troubleshooting help from other tech is appliantology.org/ Register a free account there and then start a post in the DIY forum.
Thank you!!! I had the same symptoms after running the dryer probably five times over eight hours one day. I had replaced the outlet myself a year ago. I took the outlet apart, didn't see any obvious damage or issues, and put it back together.. and it worked! Cost me $0 and didn't even have to consult a wiring diagram. Thanks so much for your helpful video!!
A+++. This video helped me win an argument with an electrician. He said since the dryer motor started it was getting juice and therefore not his problem. He ended up coming back to my house (still thinking he was right) and fixing the problem. The video was clear, easy to understand, and I feel smarter now. Good job. Subscriber for life!
Most electricians I have met are good at quoting the NEC but have poor troubleshooting skills and are surprisingly uninformed about the physics of electricity.
Just wanted to give you a huge THANK YOU!!! Had this exact problem with our electric dryer, and we ended up having to replace the entire outlet & the plug to the dryer. With all the rain we've been getting, water seeped in & corroded the outlet. We were extremely lucky that we didn't end up with a fire! Replaced outlet, cord, and moved the outlet so we don't have the same issue down the road. Again, thank you, so much!
I like these videos. Showing me and explaining the schematic helps. I am not sure I understand why or how the motor can work if L2 is not working but will take your word for it. Again, I like your video
Because the motor only relies on 120VAC to run which is supplied on the L1 line whereas the element and timer require 240 from a combination of both L1 and L2
Problem solved courtesy this video. My toggle switch went bad delivering only 120-125V to the dryer. Changed the switch and now i'm back in business. You saved a bro for the weekend. Thanks!
I noticed the dryer timer knob quit moving last night. Clothes were still wet after an hour of drying but the dryer was coming on and spinning. Started searching for this problem and was getting ready to start pulling things apart to test. I watched this video and just for the hell of it, I went straight to the fuse box and guess what?? Yes the breaker was Tripped but dryer still coming on! I reset it and BAM we have a working Timer with Heat! Glad I watched this before diving into the back of the dryer. Thanks for your time. 👍👍👍
Thanks! I had spinning but no heat or timer action; I ruled out the thermal fuse and whatnot, and noticed that the timer was humming a little. More research brought me to this video and sure enough, bad socket!
My dryer all of a sudden had this problem… figured I’d need a new one … the plug wasn’t all the way in the outlet … unplug and plug in … I have heat … I owe you
Thanks! I was having this exact problem; timer not advancing, no heat, but the tumbler still working. I just moved into this place, so I figured we bumped the dryer in the move, out some other similar issue. All I did was flip the breaker, and it works fine now. Should I inspect the 220 outlet, just to be sure there isn't some sort of insulation interference like you were getting? Thanks again for the video, is very well made, and you do an excellent job of explaining what you're doing.
I was having the same issue and since I am impatient, I decided to go straight to the comments. After I read, flip breaker, I just knew that had to be it...sure enough it worked. you saved my life, I was sitting here with a few loads of washed laundry that I did not want to walk out to the community dryer.
Joey Haizhou Li I turned off the main breaker in the house, unplugged the dryer, plugged it back in, and turned on the breaker. I also found out it's a good idea to check the exhaust hose and make sure it's totally clean. I went outside and cleared the exhaust cover of lint, and all of those things combined solved my problem.
Could this contribute at all to a heating element coil breaking? Our Speed Queen dryer is 3 years old. Timer isn't advancing on certain cycles and I found a coil broken when I opened it up. Or would a coil disconnect be responsible for timer issues? The house and thus the outlet are seventeen years old. Haven't checked the outlet yet by process of elimination but I have to wonder.
Nothing makes you look better to a customer than batting cleanup after two other servicers failed to fix the problem. Yeah, I'm her go-to guy from now on. Another customer for life!
This was my exact symptom with my dryer and it was a loose connection at the wall! I fixed it in about 5 minutes Thank you so much for this video proablly saved me hundreds!
I followed your advice on this video with no luck. I'm confident I don't know how to read an om meter correctly.lol I was at a loss. I got another drier and it ran but the same problem existed, therefore I knew it had to be L2 as you say. I still have fuses and who knew L1 and L2 run on separate fuses. Problem fixed.
Sounds like a wire got misplaced while installing the heating element and created a short. The breaker is probably tripped. You'll need to get the wiring diagram inside the control panel and re-trace the wiring for the heating element. We can help you in more detail at the Appliantology forums if you start a new topic in the Laundry forum.
I have a Whirlpool lgr4634jq0 and have the same problem-no heat and timer not advancing. Others have suggested that checking the fuse box might fix it. But if the breaker tripped, wouldn't the dryer not power up or work at all?
omg your amazing this was the problem i took the whole thing apart and it turns out it wasnt the machine at all it was the out lite thanks man you really saved my ass
Although each leg carries the same voltage, they do different things in the circuit. Dor example, if L1 and L2 were switched and L1 was not working right, the motor would not run. Watch the video again where I explain the motor circuit.
Excellent video. I have had a few problems with my frigidaire dryer that came with the house- and now the timer has stopped advancing. So I will give this a look tomorrow when I have more time. BTW- I have a fer311fs0 and when I had to get in the control panel it slipped and some wires came out- I got them back in, however there was a green wire with a clip that had no home. It's clip was different than the others. I saw a photo on the internet of it clipped to the cabinet- yet there is already a green ground screwed to the cabinet. Could hooking this additional wire up be part of my problem?
+tito Sanatana You are correct! And not just dryer schematics, but all schematics. Today's appliances are very different from the old generation-- they are really computers with appliance functionality. Appliance techs today are also computer techs and so need digital skills as well as the classical analog skills. But most appliance techs have not kept up with this change in technology. We started the Samurai Tech Academy to train appliance techs on these crucial technical skills required to service modern appliances. mastersamuraitech.com
well your doing one hell of a job as a guy like me who doesnt mess with things like this all the time now was able to completely fix his dryer cuz of your video also you kind of got me into fixen things thanks man
Thank you! I was really suspicious as to how I could have two things break at the same time (Timer not advancing in Auto cycles AND no heat from element. Sure enough, you had the solution. And I was about to buy a new set that probably wouldn't last as long as the one I already have. You rock!
I can see where it cause problems if the wires were crossed at the recep, if one does not check carefully the work of the previous electrician or diy'er.
I have a dryer that only just recently the timer stopped advancing. However, there is SOME heat, just not much, regardless of fabric setting. Any idea what the problem could be? In my search for the problem I've read it's likely the timer motor. This dryer is an older GE. What are your thoughts?
Could this be the problem if the dryer had been working and then stopped? Meaning, it has been working fine for 3 years and now the dryer won't heat and the timer doesn't advance, but the motor still runs? Thank you.
Yes, it is possible that you have a problem with the dryer outlet. If the wires weren't installed tight enough in the outlet, for example, then overtime the dryer outlet would develop a loose connection, killing either L1 or L2. You would just need to troubleshoot to find out exactly what the problem is. We can help you do this in the laundry repair forum at the Appliantology Academy. Head over there, register (free) and start a new topic.
Just a question... If the jacket of the wire was impeding the flow of electricity, when burnt, why was it not a problem when the jacket was not burnt? Or were you saying that the melted jacket worked its way up the copper? Not too long ago, I replaced a service entrance & accidentally pushed a neutral wire too far into the bus. Of course, I wound up with a circuit that didn't work until I discovered the problem. Just wondering if that was the same problem. Nice video. Thanks for the upload.
The jacket was creating a high resistance connection. With no current flowing (no load) you would measure full voltage at the outlet. But when the circuit was loaded (dryer on, current flow), most of the operating voltage was getting dropped across the high resistance connection in the outlet per E=I*R.
Good morning. "The jacket was creating a high resistance connection." So then there WAS a problem, before the jacket had melted? You don't mention if the customer was having problems with this, right from the start. If the wire was pushed too far in, with the jacket impeding the flow, how is it that the jacket melted? And what would cause the connection to spark? After you cleaned up the connection, did the dryer connection stop sparking? Perhaps I'm not understanding you correctly, but what difference does it make which load-carrying wire is connected to the outlet? After all, they're both carrying the same amount of voltage from the breaker? As long as both hots are connected correctly at the outlet, it should work. I know I must be missing something. Trust me. I didn't come here to make trouble. I'm just trying to understand. I've been doing electrical work for a long time, but never came across a problem like this one. I'd like to better understand this, so that I can make better troubleshooting decisions. That's why I love to watch guys like you. Can always learn something. Thanks for your time.
High resistance connections produce heat, P=I^2*R. BTW, a “high resistance” connection can be as little as 5 ohms. A 5 ohm connection in a 240 VAC circuit in series with a standard bake element, for example, can produce over 200 watts of heat. That’ll melt some insulation! If you really want to learn circuits, take our Fundamentals of Appliance Repair Course, mastersamuraitech.com/appliance-repair-courses/fundamentals-training/
Thank you so much for straightening me out about that! Like I said... If you're paying attention, you'll learn something. Really appreciate you taking the time to reply. Subbed.
Me again. Why does it matter where line1 and line2 is in the panel. Does a certain one actually have to be above the other one in a breaker panel? Or a certain one have to be on a certain side or bus of an older fuse panel? I have read you for several years and respect what you say. I am just confused on this subject.
I have a Whirlpool that I purchased used. It has never heated properly. I would say 60% heat output. I checked the vents and made sure it was not plugged up inside machine. Just recently, I have lost almost all heat AND my timer does not shut the dryer off. If I set at 60 minutes, the timer WILL advance. However, when it ends its cycle, instead of the buzzer and dryer shut off, the dryer continues to run. Any thoughts? Thanks
hi, I have an amana. I've had it for 5 years and I don't know how long the people before me had it. I bought it with the house. I noticed a couple days ago the timer isn't working and the dryer don't heat up. it still spins and turns on. I have a small amount of heat for a minute on the low heat setting.
Whirlpool LER4634EQ0 110 v timer motor, when timer contacts TM to WB are closed timer doesn't run and I read 240v from L2 to neutral like it's reading back through the motor to L1. Timer motor runs when wired directly to 110v. Any thoughts?
Have a Kenmore 70 series 110.60722990 : symptoms are, motor doesn't start spinning or make any sounds when start is pressed. Heater heats up until BRIGHTLY GLOWING ORANGE HOT. Can hear the mechanism that turns the timer humming even when door is open. Could a bad door switch cause all this? Or bad timer, or bad heater over-temp sensor?
I have a Maytag dryer and the heating element does not turn on. What do you think can be the problem? At first redryer stop heating then stop turning. I replaced the but still had no heat. I then replaced the thermal switch and the dryer was heating. However after a few loads it stop heating. I was told to replace the heater element since the coils were not turning red. I did but still have no heat. Please help.
Does anyone have any ideas why a dryer timer won't advance after a power surge? The dryer was running and lightening struck a transforming near my house. After power was restored, we realized that the dryer breaker had tripped. After resetting the breaker, the dryer works yet the timer doesn't move. It's a little over a year old. Thanks in advance!
Leads switched at the box? How to you know which is line 1 and which is line 2 in the box? Sorry, I am still confused. If both lines are secured, I still do not understand why it matters where they are connected EXCEPT for testing purposes IF both are secured and working properly.
The whole point of this video was that one of the lines was NOT working properly. The complaint was that the timer was not advancing nor was the heating element working. The only thing that worked was the motor. In the video, a real life service call, I take you through the reasoning and troubleshooting that was done in order to discover the cause for the problems: bad wire connection for L2 at the outlet. Now a question for you: how did I know that L2 was bad and not L1?
I would think because the schematic shows line 2 as power source for the malfunctioning parts. Whether that line be red, pink, brown, etc. It just happens that it shows to be red. Heheh, I have read you for a few years off and on. I do respect your thoughts on appliances. I am just easy to confuse.
I should have said the malfunctioning area needed both line 1 and 2. Line 1 was doing it part. Testing showed line 2 to be at fault. Malfunctioning area required both line 1 and line 2 (220 volts). A similar situation helped get me into appliances. Dryer would run but not heat. Old fuse box had one blown fuse.
i've got a kenmore dryer that only runs when the push to start button is held down. while it's running the timer does NOT advance and the dryer does not heat up. i have swapped the motor and heating relays and nothing changed. does this sound like a push to start switch issue, could BOTH relays be faulty, is it the timer, or possibly the electronic control assembly?
Hello sir i bought a new dryer because i thought my old one was broken. the old one the timer wouldn't turn and no hot air so i thought ok it's 10 years time to change it. So i bought the new one connected it and the same problem. Can you help please thank you.
memoranda1 We can help you troubleshoot this in the Appliantology forums. See this page to get started there: appliantology.org/topic/51337-getting-started-at-appliantology/
Actually you are wrong about L1 and L2 color configuration. L1 is actually red and L2 is black. If you were to look at single phase and three phase electricity you would notice that in three phase the lines (L1, L2, L3) are listed according to phase (A, B, C). In other words L1 (A) is red, L2 (B) is black, and L3 (C) is blue. Thus in a single phase situation they are labelled L1 (A) is red, and L2 (B) is black. The electrician, although he didn't do a great job on securing the connection, actually connected the wires in the panel to the proper places. By the way I am an electrician of 20 ish years...
Sadly, your comment is typical of most electricians today - they’re good with the NEC code but they don’t actually know how electricity *functions*. Today’s electricians have become defacto code enforcers. This is seen by you’re not even knowing what “split phase” refers to. Or “in phase” or “anti phase”. This is basic electricity stuff that I learned in the Navy in Basic Electricity and Electronics school. Anyone who understands basic electricity and circuits knows what these mean. Don’t worry about, though- Stick with your color codes, you’ll be fine.
Split phase is another term for single phase but "split phase" is not the common term. "In phase" is a term commonly used when dealing with electronics and speaker systems not electricity. By the way in all of my years i have never heard the term anti phase. I am an electrical instructor and have been for a while. These terms you are using incorrectly and have nothing to do with the original comment you made in your video. You were 100% wrong in your description of how L1 and L2 are connected and colored. Stick to fixing appliances and leave real electrical to us professionals.
21 electricians disliked your video for exposing their crappy work.
LOL! Bet you’re right about that- no reason anyone else would dislike it.
Hahaha I bet you're right 😂😂
instablaster
HAHA no more dislike count now!
Thank you so much
Awesome diagnosis! My dryer doesn't carry a full load but dries intermittently but very seldom (gotta check my wiring)!!! Thanks Think a single chick can do it? Will try and post....would love some encouragement from you dudes!
Could be a problem with the vent, too. If too much back pressure, this retains heat in the dryer and the safety devices will cut heat. Good place to go for more detailed troubleshooting help from other tech is appliantology.org/ Register a free account there and then start a post in the DIY forum.
Thank you!!! I had the same symptoms after running the dryer probably five times over eight hours one day. I had replaced the outlet myself a year ago. I took the outlet apart, didn't see any obvious damage or issues, and put it back together.. and it worked! Cost me $0 and didn't even have to consult a wiring diagram. Thanks so much for your helpful video!!
A+++. This video helped me win an argument with an electrician. He said since the dryer motor started it was getting juice and therefore not his problem. He ended up coming back to my house (still thinking he was right) and fixing the problem. The video was clear, easy to understand, and I feel smarter now. Good job. Subscriber for life!
Most electricians I have met are good at quoting the NEC but have poor troubleshooting skills and are surprisingly uninformed about the physics of electricity.
Just wanted to give you a huge THANK YOU!!! Had this exact problem with our electric dryer, and we ended up having to replace the entire outlet & the plug to the dryer. With all the rain we've been getting, water seeped in & corroded the outlet. We were extremely lucky that we didn't end up with a fire! Replaced outlet, cord, and moved the outlet so we don't have the same issue down the road. Again, thank you, so much!
piperdawn7 Thanks for watching!
I like these videos. Showing me and explaining the schematic helps. I am not sure I understand why or how the motor can work if L2 is not working but will take your word for it. Again, I like your video
Because the motor only relies on 120VAC to run which is supplied on the L1 line whereas the element and timer require 240 from a combination of both L1 and L2
You Da Man! I guess you feel pretty sporty fixing this after 2 people failed.I guess the customer was happy that they finally called you.
Problem solved courtesy this video. My toggle switch went bad delivering only 120-125V to the dryer. Changed the switch and now i'm back in business. You saved a bro for the weekend. Thanks!
I noticed the dryer timer knob quit moving last night. Clothes were still wet after an hour of drying but the dryer was coming on and spinning. Started searching for this problem and was getting ready to start pulling things apart to test. I watched this video and just for the hell of it, I went straight to the fuse box and guess what?? Yes the breaker was Tripped but dryer still coming on!
I reset it and BAM we have a working Timer with Heat! Glad I watched this before diving into the back of the dryer. Thanks for your time. 👍👍👍
Thanks! I had spinning but no heat or timer action; I ruled out the thermal fuse and whatnot, and noticed that the timer was humming a little. More research brought me to this video and sure enough, bad socket!
Absolutely wonderful trouble shooting if I must say so Myself AND SO IT IS
My dryer all of a sudden had this problem… figured I’d need a new one … the plug wasn’t all the way in the outlet … unplug and plug in … I have heat … I owe you
truly unexpected problem. Thanks for your great explanation.
Thanks! I was having this exact problem; timer not advancing, no heat, but the tumbler still working. I just moved into this place, so I figured we bumped the dryer in the move, out some other similar issue. All I did was flip the breaker, and it works fine now. Should I inspect the 220 outlet, just to be sure there isn't some sort of insulation interference like you were getting? Thanks again for the video, is very well made, and you do an excellent job of explaining what you're doing.
I was having the same issue and since I am impatient, I decided to go straight to the comments. After I read, flip breaker, I just knew that had to be it...sure enough it worked. you saved my life, I was sitting here with a few loads of washed laundry that I did not want to walk out to the community dryer.
Joey Haizhou Li I turned off the main breaker in the house, unplugged the dryer, plugged it back in, and turned on the breaker. I also found out it's a good idea to check the exhaust hose and make sure it's totally clean. I went outside and cleared the exhaust cover of lint, and all of those things combined solved my problem.
Could this contribute at all to a heating element coil breaking? Our Speed Queen dryer is 3 years old. Timer isn't advancing on certain cycles and I found a coil broken when I opened it up. Or would a coil disconnect be responsible for timer issues? The house and thus the outlet are seventeen years old. Haven't checked the outlet yet by process of elimination but I have to wonder.
Nothing makes you look better to a customer than batting cleanup after two other servicers failed to fix the problem. Yeah, I'm her go-to guy from now on. Another customer for life!
This was my exact symptom with my dryer and it was a loose connection at the wall! I fixed it in about 5 minutes Thank you so much for this video proablly saved me hundreds!
joel98z thanks for your comment or I wouldn’t have fixed mine! It wasn’t plugged in all the way
So helpful and easy to understand !
this helped me so much. the main breaker was bad. thanks a lot.
I followed your advice on this video with no luck. I'm confident I don't know how to read an om meter correctly.lol I was at a loss. I got another drier and it ran but the same problem existed, therefore I knew it had to be L2 as you say. I still have fuses and who knew L1 and L2 run on separate fuses. Problem fixed.
Sounds like a wire got misplaced while installing the heating element and created a short. The breaker is probably tripped. You'll need to get the wiring diagram inside the control panel and re-trace the wiring for the heating element. We can help you in more detail at the Appliantology forums if you start a new topic in the Laundry forum.
Thank you so much! You saved us a lot of money by just checking the fuse box. It works!
Thank you very much, a good video to understand the operation and I solve my problem without using a repairman, my problem was a fuse burned.
I have a Whirlpool lgr4634jq0 and have the same problem-no heat and timer not advancing. Others have suggested that checking the fuse box might fix it. But if the breaker tripped, wouldn't the dryer not power up or work at all?
Thank you!!! This video just solved my dryer problem!!!! Awesome!!!!!!
omg your amazing this was the problem i took the whole thing apart and it turns out it wasnt the machine at all it was the out lite thanks man you really saved my ass
Thank you so much for this video. That was exactly what was wrong with my dryer. Working like a charm.
This unfortunately did not fix my problem. I was hopeful and now back to square one. Any suggestions?
Did you switch the wires before you recorded? Each leg carries the same voltage. Why does it matter which leg is connected to which lug?
Although each leg carries the same voltage, they do different things in the circuit. Dor example, if L1 and L2 were switched and L1 was not working right, the motor would not run. Watch the video again where I explain the motor circuit.
Excellent video. I have had a few problems with my frigidaire dryer that came with the house- and now the timer has stopped advancing. So I will give this a look tomorrow when I have more time.
BTW- I have a fer311fs0 and when I had to get in the control panel it slipped and some wires came out- I got them back in, however there was a green wire with a clip that had no home. It's clip was different than the others. I saw a photo on the internet of it clipped to the cabinet- yet there is already a green ground screwed to the cabinet. Could hooking this additional wire up be part of my problem?
Oh my, you do the whole schematic reading, I am sure 99% of appliance technician can't read the schematic of a dryer.
+tito Sanatana You are correct! And not just dryer schematics, but all schematics. Today's appliances are very different from the old generation-- they are really computers with appliance functionality. Appliance techs today are also computer techs and so need digital skills as well as the classical analog skills. But most appliance techs have not kept up with this change in technology. We started the Samurai Tech Academy to train appliance techs on these crucial technical skills required to service modern appliances. mastersamuraitech.com
well your doing one hell of a job as a guy like me who doesnt mess with things like this all the time now was able to completely fix his dryer cuz of your video also you kind of got me into fixen things thanks man
Are you still active?
Thank you! I was really suspicious as to how I could have two things break at the same time (Timer not advancing in Auto cycles AND no heat from element. Sure enough, you had the solution. And I was about to buy a new set that probably wouldn't last as long as the one I already have. You rock!
I can see where it cause problems if the wires were crossed at the recep, if one does not check carefully the work of the previous electrician or diy'er.
You just saved me $120. Great video.
I have a dryer that only just recently the timer stopped advancing. However, there is SOME heat, just not much, regardless of fabric setting. Any idea what the problem could be? In my search for the problem I've read it's likely the timer motor. This dryer is an older GE. What are your thoughts?
allourvice Depends on which cycle the dryer is not advancing in. All cycles = bad timer. Autodry cycle = (usually) bad cycling thermostat.
Could this be the problem if the dryer had been working and then stopped? Meaning, it has been working fine for 3 years and now the dryer won't heat and the timer doesn't advance, but the motor still runs? Thank you.
Yes, it is possible that you have a problem with the dryer outlet. If the wires weren't installed tight enough in the outlet, for example, then overtime the dryer outlet would develop a loose connection, killing either L1 or L2. You would just need to troubleshoot to find out exactly what the problem is. We can help you do this in the laundry repair forum at the Appliantology Academy. Head over there, register (free) and start a new topic.
Just a question...
If the jacket of the wire was impeding the flow of electricity, when burnt, why was it not a problem when the jacket was not burnt?
Or were you saying that the melted jacket worked its way up the copper?
Not too long ago, I replaced a service entrance & accidentally pushed a neutral wire too far into the bus. Of course, I wound up with
a circuit that didn't work until I discovered the problem. Just wondering if that was the same problem.
Nice video. Thanks for the upload.
The jacket was creating a high resistance connection. With no current flowing (no load) you would measure full voltage at the outlet. But when the circuit was loaded (dryer on, current flow), most of the operating voltage was getting dropped across the high resistance connection in the outlet per E=I*R.
Good morning.
"The jacket was creating a high resistance connection."
So then there WAS a problem, before the jacket had melted? You don't mention if the customer was having problems with this, right from the start.
If the wire was pushed too far in, with the jacket impeding the flow, how is it that the jacket melted? And what would cause the connection to spark?
After you cleaned up the connection, did the dryer connection stop sparking?
Perhaps I'm not understanding you correctly, but what difference does it make which load-carrying wire is connected to the outlet?
After all, they're both carrying the same amount of voltage from the breaker? As long as both hots are connected correctly at the outlet, it should work.
I know I must be missing something.
Trust me. I didn't come here to make trouble. I'm just trying to understand. I've been doing electrical work for a long time, but never came across a problem like this one. I'd like to better understand this, so that I can make better troubleshooting decisions. That's why I love to watch guys like you. Can always learn something.
Thanks for your time.
High resistance connections produce heat, P=I^2*R. BTW, a “high resistance” connection can be as little as 5 ohms. A 5 ohm connection in a 240 VAC circuit in series with a standard bake element, for example, can produce over 200 watts of heat. That’ll melt some insulation! If you really want to learn circuits, take our Fundamentals of Appliance Repair Course, mastersamuraitech.com/appliance-repair-courses/fundamentals-training/
Thank you so much for straightening me out about that!
Like I said... If you're paying attention, you'll learn something.
Really appreciate you taking the time to reply.
Subbed.
Curious question- the problems that arose. Were they immediate after plugging in or happened over time? Thanks
This dryer never worked correctly after the electrician installed the outlet because the outlet was wired wrong.
Me again. Why does it matter where line1 and line2 is in the panel. Does a certain one actually have to be above the other one in a breaker panel? Or a certain one have to be on a certain side or bus of an older fuse panel?
I have read you for several years and respect what you say. I am just confused on this subject.
You can work on appliances without a license. However you can not work on house electrical wiring unless you are a licensed electrician.
I have a Whirlpool that I purchased used. It has never heated properly. I would say 60% heat output. I checked the vents and made sure it was not plugged up inside machine. Just recently, I have lost almost all heat AND my timer does not shut the dryer off. If I set at 60 minutes, the timer WILL advance. However, when it ends its cycle, instead of the buzzer and dryer shut off, the dryer continues to run. Any thoughts? Thanks
start push button could be stuck closed
hi, I have an amana. I've had it for 5 years and I don't know how long the people before me had it. I bought it with the house. I noticed a couple days ago the timer isn't working and the dryer don't heat up. it still spins and turns on. I have a small amount of heat for a minute on the low heat setting.
so if I test all the fuses on a dryer plus heated element and they all have continuity but no heat it could be the 220 outlet box or the timer ?
Whirlpool LER4634EQ0 110 v timer motor, when timer contacts TM to WB are closed timer doesn't run and I read 240v from L2 to neutral like it's reading back through the motor to L1. Timer motor runs when wired directly to 110v. Any thoughts?
Have a Kenmore 70 series 110.60722990 : symptoms are, motor doesn't start spinning or make any sounds when start is pressed. Heater heats up until BRIGHTLY GLOWING ORANGE HOT. Can hear the mechanism that turns the timer humming even when door is open.
Could a bad door switch cause all this? Or bad timer, or bad heater over-temp sensor?
I have a Maytag dryer and the heating element does not turn on. What do you think can be the problem? At first redryer stop heating then stop turning. I replaced the but still had no heat. I then replaced the thermal switch and the dryer was heating. However after a few loads it stop heating. I was told to replace the heater element since the coils were not turning red. I did but still have no heat. Please help.
Juan M Esqueda See this video for instruction on how to troubleshoot this problem: ua-cam.com/video/ksKeFau_56E/v-deo.html
Does anyone have any ideas why a dryer timer won't advance after a power surge? The dryer was running and lightening struck a transforming near my house. After power was restored, we realized that the dryer breaker had tripped. After resetting the breaker, the dryer works yet the timer doesn't move. It's a little over a year old. Thanks in advance!
Leads switched at the box? How to you know which is line 1 and which is line 2 in the box? Sorry, I am still confused. If both lines are secured, I still do not understand why it matters where they are connected EXCEPT for testing purposes IF both are secured and working properly.
The whole point of this video was that one of the lines was NOT working properly. The complaint was that the timer was not advancing nor was the heating element working. The only thing that worked was the motor. In the video, a real life service call, I take you through the reasoning and troubleshooting that was done in order to discover the cause for the problems: bad wire connection for L2 at the outlet.
Now a question for you: how did I know that L2 was bad and not L1?
I would think because the schematic shows line 2 as power source for the malfunctioning parts.
Whether that line be red, pink, brown, etc. It just happens that it shows to be red. Heheh, I have read you for a few years off and on. I do respect your thoughts on appliances. I am just easy to confuse.
I should have said the malfunctioning area needed both line 1 and 2. Line 1 was doing it part. Testing showed line 2 to be at fault. Malfunctioning area required both line 1 and line 2 (220 volts).
A similar situation helped get me into appliances. Dryer would run but not heat. Old fuse box had one blown fuse.
i've got a kenmore dryer that only runs when the push to start button is held down. while it's running the timer does NOT advance and the dryer does not heat up. i have swapped the motor and heating relays and nothing changed. does this sound like a push to start switch issue, could BOTH relays be faulty, is it the timer, or possibly the electronic control assembly?
+Derek Powers i just tried to run the the "diagnostic test" and got no beeps
what if the timer doesnt turn off and stays on overnight. .Also the heating element has never turned on.
It is a whirlpool dryer.
Hello sir i bought a new dryer because i thought my old one was broken. the old one the timer wouldn't turn and no hot air so i thought ok it's 10 years time to change it. So i bought the new one connected it and the same problem. Can you help please thank you.
memoranda1 We can help you troubleshoot this in the Appliantology forums. See this page to get started there: appliantology.org/topic/51337-getting-started-at-appliantology/
Oh, forgot to add, the dryer works like new :)
Actually you are wrong about L1 and L2 color configuration. L1 is actually red and L2 is black. If you were to look at single phase and three phase electricity you would notice that in three phase the lines (L1, L2, L3) are listed according to phase (A, B, C). In other words L1 (A) is red, L2 (B) is black, and L3 (C) is blue. Thus in a single phase situation they are labelled L1 (A) is red, and L2 (B) is black. The electrician, although he didn't do a great job on securing the connection, actually connected the wires in the panel to the proper places. By the way I am an electrician of 20 ish years...
In a split phase system, like this one, are L1 and L2 in phase or anti phase?
Bueller? Anyone?
Split Phase? What the hell is "split phase"? What is "anti-phase"? Do you even know what you are talking about?
Sadly, your comment is typical of most electricians today - they’re good with the NEC code but they don’t actually know how electricity *functions*. Today’s electricians have become defacto code enforcers. This is seen by you’re not even knowing what “split phase” refers to. Or “in phase” or “anti phase”. This is basic electricity stuff that I learned in the Navy in Basic Electricity and Electronics school. Anyone who understands basic electricity and circuits knows what these mean. Don’t worry about, though- Stick with your color codes, you’ll be fine.
Split phase is another term for single phase but "split phase" is not the common term. "In phase" is a term commonly used when dealing with electronics and speaker systems not electricity. By the way in all of my years i have never heard the term anti phase. I am an electrical instructor and have been for a while. These terms you are using incorrectly and have nothing to do with the original comment you made in your video. You were 100% wrong in your description of how L1 and L2 are connected and colored. Stick to fixing appliances and leave real electrical to us professionals.
Ruff, Ruff