Important to mention… When the piston is in the rest position, the brake fluid will be balanced via The compensation hole. This compensation hole is very small, clean this compensation hole with a very thin wire of copper, if it would clog… you are guaranteed a dragging caliper, this has already happened to me twice!!! with the Honda CBX 1000. Stay Safe.
@@anunentitledmotivatedmille7731 sir, sorry ,,, my only purpose is to help other motorcyclists and avoid problems with their rear master-cilynder-brakes!
Thanks for doing so. I think this is the problem on my bayou 300 ATV. I was riding on a warm day and both front brakes became completely stuck. Even bleeding them a bit only relieved the pressure until you brake once. I had to let some air in the system to allow some expansion and rode it home. It was an ATV and off road, if you have the problem on a road with a machine that drives 100kmh (or more😏), you are screwed.
I'm hoping this will work when I try to do this on my 2005 Ninja 636. The seal has to be bad as air gets in after each ride and I have to bleed it before the next ride everytime. I bought the All Balls one in your video which is just the rebuilt kit and joy the Piston. Hoping it all works well!
Any tips on getting the piston pushed in so i can get the c-clip in? My 08' yz250 is so hard to get pushed in with washer and clip and get it set right! So annoying been trying for hours.
I bought complete new handle bar with master cylinder, but I think that something is wrong with cylinder. I perform air bleeding (conventional way and reverse), I don't think that air remain in system, but breaking force is just too weak, brake pads move just small amount, and there is almost no back pressure on lever. What is strange to me is when I press handle bar, there is significant oil shooting in reservoir, in your video (4:25) I do not see oil shooting out of reservoir. Is this normal that oil shoot during pressing?
I good idea after you removed the rubber boot is to give the area a blast whit break cleaner. Then you minimize the risk to get any crap in to the cylinder when you put it together.
I wonder if its because of the cable or Brake Master cylinder that difficult to pull. I bled the brakes. And there was no change i checked the cable as well.
the one in the diagram you show isn't the same as the one you used to replace it. and I cant find anything on replacing it with the one shown in the diagram
In an aftermarket kit, both cylinders are 14mm, dot 4 fluid got dirty black in just 15 days, properly bled it but again it went dirty black in just 1 day, what could be the reason ?
Thanks guys, what a great video! I have one question though, what causes the small bubbles to form when pressing the lever? (at 4min27sec) My bike just started doing and Im not sure how to troubleshoot it... Thanks for your help!
The small bubbles are from air getting pushed out of the lines while bleeding the brakes. You'll want to make sure you get as much air out of the lines as possible. Our friend Cameron Niemela has a nice short video you can check out talking about tips for bleeding brakes: ua-cam.com/video/BSwQD6-n0Y8/v-deo.html
Where can I find a master cylinder for my front break? I’ve looked on Rocky Mountain and couldn’t find one. At least under my machine specific search for my dirtbike.
hi i have a honda 150 cc motorbike i have the same nissin master cylinder for front wheel. when i applied the break the cylinder will stuck inside never come back. please help me on this.
+rscabbage Should be fine as long as the brake line fitting fits the banjo bolt and threads into the master cylinder? You would just want to know what bike the brake master cylinder came off of in order to buy levers for it though.
+Rhonda Skinner Have you rebuilt your front brake master cylinder already? Have you tried compressing the brake caliper piston with a c-clamp to help break it free? In most cases a front brake master cylinder rebuild is required to fix this problem.
I'd like to replace my Shimano Hydraulic Brake on my bicycle with chrome motorcycle brake levers/master cylinders. I am keeping the Shimano calipers and brake lines. Shimano uses mineral oil for fluid. Could you tell me if the seals on most motorcycles brake master cylinders are EPDM, Nitirle, or some other rubber compound? I know EPDM is not compatible with mineral oil.
2003 Yamaha virago 250, been trying to bleed the front brakes for 45 minutes - gone through an entire small bottle of fluid and it's still not getting stiff. Is this likely a master cylinder issue?
I emptied my master cylinder to clean everything out as my bike hasn't been started in 4 years and may not have had any fluid changes since the factory(1994) removing the banjo bolt and covering that hole with my finger while pumping the lever does build up pressure but when reconnecting the line barely any fluid is coming out. Any advice?
I'm wondering what would happen if I changed my ktm 300's master cylinder that uses a 10.5mm piston with a ktm 200's master cylinder that uses a 9.5mm piston? Would the clutch pull/feel be the same as it is on a ktm 200?
can i ask you a motorcycle related question ? my bike would have pausing feeling when i apply the brake and when the bike only almost come to a stop.. i replace head bearing, wheel bearing looks fine, change rotors and pad,, still doing the same jerking thing .. what else i can do to fix that? tire is balance and i bleed the brake als
What bike do you have? Does the front end have any play in it at all? That's the first thing i would look for if that's what it feels like to you. Lift the front end off the ground and check for play in the bearings and front end. It may just be that your brakes are being really grabby but i would make sure your caliper is lubed up to make sure the pistons are functioning properly. Which brake pads did you install?
i have a 09 R1. and the front end have plays in it. and the brake is not grabby.. got some new brake pads in it.. the caliper seems to work ok since i got full brake its just pausing at low speed.
Ivan Robles You could need a new brake master cylinder rebuild kit, if it doesn't go away after bleeding your brake fluid? You can also check the front brake caliper pistons clearing them from any dirt and grim with brake cleaner. Let us know if there's anything else you run into? Thanks for watching!
hi i have had my rmz450 (2007) for a few months now i do trail riding and last time i was riding coming up a big hill i went off to the side and hit a tree stump with my bars i wasnt going very fast and after that i had noticed my front breaks were completly squishy and no fluid was in the top fluid box. i couldnt see where the fluid came out but i tryed to refill and rebleed them when i got home there apeared to be no air in the line but the front break still remains squishy and doesnt work at all unless i slam them on quickly it will work for a second any idea? thanks
Did you find any damage cause by the wreck where the fluid might have escaped? If your system is constantly sucking air into the system it wouldn't ever tighten up no matter how many times you bleed it. I would inspect your parts checking for any damage or leaks. If not try bleeding it a couple more times to make sure all the air is out of the system... If that doesn't would you could have a bad seal somewhere (either a banjo fitting crush washer or a seal) and you might have to rebuild the system
@@ramon323able after bleeding a tightening everything back to normal, I was pulling the lever in repeatedly too fast. I did slow pulls for maybe 5-10 times and it slowly built pressure again.
+bazrazin1 never had problems with it, even had it in my mouth - doesn't taste great. Other than severly drying out your skin it seems to be fine .. I'll reply when I get skin cancer though :D
Recently rebuilt my master cylinder and can't get any pressure to bleed brakes. The bore in the cylinder looked good without any damage when I did the rebuild. The only thing that I could see is if one of the seals rolled over while reinstalling the piston. If this was the cause should I replace the seals again?
Try different combinations when bleeding your brake line.. pump the lever and while holding it in, crack the banjo bolt that's threaded into the master cylinder. That can purge any air that is caught between those two points. May need to do it a couple times until brake fluid starts to seep out. Then you can go down to the brake line nipple and repeat the bleeding process. Hope this helps. Goal is to purge any existing air from all sealing points.. I would try this before replacing your seals, but again there is that possibility that they could have rolled over on you during installation?
My 1981cb750c master cylinder cap is clear and can clearly see that it appears to be frozen because there is an angle to the fluid thats frozen inside. I should just buy www.ebay.com/itm/7-8-MOTORCYCLE-HYDRAULIC-BRAKE-MASTER-CYLINDER-CLUTCH-LEVER-HONDA-SUZUKI-RIGHT-/181719983782?fits=Year%3A1981%7CModel%3ACB750C&hash=item2a4f5ae6a6&vxp=mtr and replace it or try to rebuild it?
Jordan Berry You dip your finger in the brake fluid to evenly apply it onto the new brake piston seals for easy installation into your front brake master cylinder.
You guys are great. These vids are one of the biggest reasons I always buy from you guys. Please keep up the great work.
We're glad you enjoy these videos and they help you out. Thanks for watching!
Awesome, my service manual was very vague and this showed me the correct order to reinstall the master cylinder kit. Thanks!
Shane Gearheart Nice job. Thanks for the comment!
Important to mention… When the piston is in the rest position, the brake fluid will be balanced via The compensation hole. This compensation hole is very small, clean this compensation hole with a very thin wire of copper, if it would clog… you are guaranteed a dragging caliper, this has already happened to me twice!!! with the Honda CBX 1000. Stay Safe.
You left this comment on multiple rebuild videos. Good for you.
@@anunentitledmotivatedmille7731 sir, sorry ,,, my only purpose is to help other motorcyclists and avoid problems with their rear master-cilynder-brakes!
Thanks for doing so. I think this is the problem on my bayou 300 ATV. I was riding on a warm day and both front brakes became completely stuck. Even bleeding them a bit only relieved the pressure until you brake once. I had to let some air in the system to allow some expansion and rode it home. It was an ATV and off road, if you have the problem on a road with a machine that drives 100kmh (or more😏), you are screwed.
the same issue can cause slipping with an hydraulic clutch
@@jasonjason7277 You're right...Very well noticed. 👍
Nice instructional video. Makes me think about how easy to break down a .45.
most helpful video
Glad I found this video 👍🏼
Thanks!
Great video, it cleared up some things about the motorcycle brakes that are on the go kart I am fixing.
I'm hoping this will work when I try to do this on my 2005 Ninja 636. The seal has to be bad as air gets in after each ride and I have to bleed it before the next ride everytime. I bought the All Balls one in your video which is just the rebuilt kit and joy the Piston. Hoping it all works well!
Thank u i love u from one year i dont know Thank u so much
Any tips on getting the piston pushed in so i can get the c-clip in? My 08' yz250 is so hard to get pushed in with washer and clip and get it set right! So annoying been trying for hours.
I bought complete new handle bar with master cylinder, but I think that something is wrong with cylinder.
I perform air bleeding (conventional way and reverse), I don't think that air remain in system, but breaking force is just too weak, brake pads
move just small amount, and there is almost no back pressure on lever.
What is strange to me is when I press handle bar, there is significant oil shooting in reservoir, in your video (4:25) I do not see oil shooting out
of reservoir. Is this normal that oil shoot during pressing?
At 1:50 does it get air in the brake line when you pull out the piston or when you put the new piston in
I good idea after you removed the rubber boot is to give the area a blast whit break cleaner.
Then you minimize the risk to get any crap in to the cylinder when you put it together.
wonderful information guys! you folks are totally underrated!
thanks man very helpful to me..
I wonder if its because of the cable or Brake Master cylinder that difficult to pull. I bled the brakes. And there was no change i checked the cable as well.
If I am using a 14mm Nissin master cylinder, can I use any of those after market 14mm rebuild kit? Or there's variations among the 14mm kit?
Do you have a video on how to rebuild a brake caliber??
Bhai ye hero impulse me lg jayega
My master cylinder is leaking oil but still works great should I go through the pain of rebuilding it
From where is it leaking
@@aidanmeindersma5614 right at the piston thinking the o ring on the outermost side isn’t good
Inside of the reservoir on the bottom is small "stuff" (suzuki bandit 1200), not sure how to fit it back.
the one in the diagram you show isn't the same as the one you used to replace it. and I cant find anything on replacing it with the one shown in the diagram
In an aftermarket kit, both cylinders are 14mm, dot 4 fluid got dirty black in just 15 days, properly bled it but again it went dirty black in just 1 day, what could be the reason ?
Thanks guys, what a great video!
I have one question though, what causes the small bubbles to form when pressing the lever? (at 4min27sec) My bike just started doing and Im not sure how to troubleshoot it... Thanks for your help!
The small bubbles are from air getting pushed out of the lines while bleeding the brakes. You'll want to make sure you get as much air out of the lines as possible. Our friend Cameron Niemela has a nice short video you can check out talking about tips for bleeding brakes: ua-cam.com/video/BSwQD6-n0Y8/v-deo.html
Where can I find a master cylinder for my front break? I’ve looked on Rocky Mountain and couldn’t find one. At least under my machine specific search for my dirtbike.
Which direction does the seals go?
Did you ever find this out????
hi i have a honda 150 cc motorbike i have the same nissin master cylinder for front wheel. when i applied the break the cylinder will stuck inside never come back. please help me on this.
I've got a 2005 yz250f. My front master cylinder is gone. Can I put on any old front master cylinder? Or does it matter
+rscabbage Should be fine as long as the brake line fitting fits the banjo bolt and threads into the master cylinder? You would just want to know what bike the brake master cylinder came off of in order to buy levers for it though.
What if the piston is not coming back out mate
What if the glass broke would you fix glass put new one now explain that
i have a 96 Suzuki Intruder 800. The piston on the front brake doesn't even come out. It's stuck inside. What now?
+Rhonda Skinner Have you rebuilt your front brake master cylinder already? Have you tried compressing the brake caliper piston with a c-clamp to help break it free? In most cases a front brake master cylinder rebuild is required to fix this problem.
I'd like to replace my Shimano Hydraulic Brake on my bicycle with chrome motorcycle brake levers/master cylinders. I am keeping the Shimano calipers and brake lines. Shimano uses mineral oil for fluid. Could you tell me if the seals on most motorcycles brake master cylinders are EPDM, Nitirle, or some other rubber compound? I know EPDM is not compatible with mineral oil.
the cap on the cylinder Will tell you what you need.
2003 Yamaha virago 250, been trying to bleed the front brakes for 45 minutes - gone through an entire small bottle of fluid and it's still not getting stiff. Is this likely a master cylinder issue?
Did you ever find out? I'm having the same problem
I emptied my master cylinder to clean everything out as my bike hasn't been started in 4 years and may not have had any fluid changes since the factory(1994) removing the banjo bolt and covering that hole with my finger while pumping the lever does build up pressure but when reconnecting the line barely any fluid is coming out. Any advice?
Did you ever find out why???
Is there another tool i can use to get the circlip out?
+Danny D You could maybe if you had small enough needle nose pliers? But we recommend spending the $7 to do the job.. makes it a breeze!
I'm wondering what would happen if I changed my ktm 300's master cylinder that uses a 10.5mm piston with a ktm 200's master cylinder that uses a 9.5mm piston? Would the clutch pull/feel be the same as it is on a ktm 200?
can i ask you a motorcycle related question ? my bike would have pausing feeling when i apply the brake and when the bike only almost come to a stop.. i replace head bearing, wheel bearing looks fine, change rotors and pad,, still doing the same jerking thing .. what else i can do to fix that? tire is balance and i bleed the brake als
What bike do you have? Does the front end have any play in it at all? That's the first thing i would look for if that's what it feels like to you. Lift the front end off the ground and check for play in the bearings and front end. It may just be that your brakes are being really grabby but i would make sure your caliper is lubed up to make sure the pistons are functioning properly. Which brake pads did you install?
i have a 09 R1. and the front end have plays in it. and the brake is not grabby.. got some new brake pads in it.. the caliper seems to work ok since i got full brake its just pausing at low speed.
what if the brake feels stiff? I can pull the brake and stopping power is good but just feels like stiff to pull lever
Ivan Robles You could need a new brake master cylinder rebuild kit, if it doesn't go away after bleeding your brake fluid? You can also check the front brake caliper pistons clearing them from any dirt and grim with brake cleaner. Let us know if there's anything else you run into? Thanks for watching!
Went away after flush and bleeding thanks!
Ivan Robles Nice job! Thanks for checking out our channel.
hi i have had my rmz450 (2007) for a few months now i do trail riding and last time i was riding coming up a big hill i went off to the side and hit a tree stump with my bars i wasnt going very fast and after that i had noticed my front breaks were completly squishy and no fluid was in the top fluid box. i couldnt see where the fluid came out but i tryed to refill and rebleed them when i got home there apeared to be no air in the line but the front break still remains squishy and doesnt work at all unless i slam them on quickly it will work for a second any idea? thanks
Did you find any damage cause by the wreck where the fluid might have escaped? If your system is constantly sucking air into the system it wouldn't ever tighten up no matter how many times you bleed it. I would inspect your parts checking for any damage or leaks. If not try bleeding it a couple more times to make sure all the air is out of the system... If that doesn't would you could have a bad seal somewhere (either a banjo fitting crush washer or a seal) and you might have to rebuild the system
I rebuilt it, put everything back together after also rebuilding the caliper, and the lever never builds pressure. Any suggestions?
Did you ever find out why it didn't build pressure
@@ramon323able after bleeding a tightening everything back to normal, I was pulling the lever in repeatedly too fast. I did slow pulls for maybe 5-10 times and it slowly built pressure again.
@@cadillacmoto what way the the seals face I'm not sure if I have them the wrong way
Can you do this without those fancy pliers
why doesn’t my yz125 brake lever move as much as the lever on the video
what if the plunger is stuck in
Donald Flowers Then you are fucked
Doesn't showwhat right direction of seal is
Karam Singh which direction does the seals go?
Brake fluid is nasty stuff, I wouldn't touch it with bare hands.
isn't brake fluid a highly corrosive liquid, should not be touching it.
+bazrazin1 never had problems with it, even had it in my mouth - doesn't taste great. Other than severly drying out your skin it seems to be fine .. I'll reply when I get skin cancer though :D
+xfgher "even had it in my mouth - doesn't taste great." lmfao, sounds like a girl's first time. If you know what I mean. ;]
It's not defined as particularly hazardous, but it's still one of the last things I want on my hands
have u noticed, if it falls on any paint even the one on the master cylinder it chips of the paint.
Recently rebuilt my master cylinder and can't get any pressure to bleed brakes. The bore in the cylinder looked good without any damage when I did the rebuild. The only thing that I could see is if one of the seals rolled over while reinstalling the piston. If this was the cause should I replace the seals again?
Try different combinations when bleeding your brake line.. pump the lever and while holding it in, crack the banjo bolt that's threaded into the master cylinder. That can purge any air that is caught between those two points. May need to do it a couple times until brake fluid starts to seep out. Then you can go down to the brake line nipple and repeat the bleeding process. Hope this helps. Goal is to purge any existing air from all sealing points.. I would try this before replacing your seals, but again there is that possibility that they could have rolled over on you during installation?
Fred Wiedlich ya think
ya 🤔
Mines nothing like this it was cheaper just to buy new controls
gloves?
gloves!
My 1981cb750c master cylinder cap is clear and can clearly see that it appears to be frozen because there is an angle to the fluid thats frozen inside. I should just buy
www.ebay.com/itm/7-8-MOTORCYCLE-HYDRAULIC-BRAKE-MASTER-CYLINDER-CLUTCH-LEVER-HONDA-SUZUKI-RIGHT-/181719983782?fits=Year%3A1981%7CModel%3ACB750C&hash=item2a4f5ae6a6&vxp=mtr
and replace it or try to rebuild it?
Way too fast
Pause it bro. It's not a livestream
lol why did you drip you finger in brake fluid lol./
Jordan Berry You dip your finger in the brake fluid to evenly apply it onto the new brake piston seals for easy installation into your front brake master cylinder.