I've been an aircraft mechanic in the air force for 12 years. I've worked on c5s, c17s, jstars, and currently f16's. With all of my experience, this job is more difficult than anything else maintenence wise I have ever done. I absolutely despise replacing the parking brake assembly!
yeeeeeeeee not having a straight reach to the to the hold down pin is what made this job frustrating. Most cars with this style of drum parking brake have a larger hole in the hub that is directly over the hold down pins making the job way easier. Have you replaced the rear suspension air bags in this truck? That’s even worse.
@@jth1987leb I haven't done that yet, hopefully I'll never need to! F16's have a lot of tight spots, maintenance wise... But these parking brakes got me more frustrated than I've ever gotten lol. I ended up throwing in the towel, buying another rebuild kit and I'm taking it to a mechanic to do. Good video nonetheless though! Incredible how people like you take the time to help others out, keep it up!
I had a hard time assembling the parking brake on my Seqouia until I found this video. The only change I did was to use a small zip tie to compress those springs, assemble pin, guide washer, spring and lock in advance and fish it while attaching shoe.
Thanks for the video!. For the clip and spings that you have to fight to reassemble. If you squish the springs and hold it squished with two small tiwraps opposite each other. Cut one flush and leave the other long so you can hold and maniplualte it with it. Use small foreceps clamped on the clip and easily put it on the pin. Hold it in place while you cut the tie wraps, without tension it will easily come back off. Also the shim behind the axle has a flat spot that you can rotate it to for more room. Do it this way 2 to 3 minutes per clip spring and you will be done.
A tip: when you slide the rotor back on, try to get the open hole in the rotor where you can adjust the star wheel. I got my rotor stuck all the way on, rotor wouldn't turn, no way to back off the star wheel to get it back off. What a pain...
Someone probably already said this, but at least on my generation of 4Runner (mine is a 2008)you can pre-assemble the retention spring clips and springs and then slide the shoe in from the side. You just use one hand to hold the spring against the hub and slide the shoe in. then you just move the inner clip's retention tab into the hole....that is MUCH better than trying to get that clip on and twisted......
Great video. I did something that helped me much more easily get the keeper/spring/and the pin in place. Because the pin on the one side is not straight, you can't just push your needle nose pliers in and twist the pin...the pin doesn't spin at all, so you have to miraculously get the hold-down spring cup to turn. I couldn't get it to rotate at all. Since I was on my knees, I prayed about it and asked God what I should do (really did - he answered me, too). I had the impression that I should put a small cut in the hold-down spring cup. I used some tin snips to cut a small notch in it - just on the side. I compressed the spring and got a good hold of the pin (using normal needle nose pliers), then I used a flat head screwdriver and pushed against the small notch I had created to rotate the cup clockwise. It worked like a charm and made this job possible.
Thank you. I had a keeper spring come off and get lodged in the works. Your video was a big help for my first time replacing the parking brake assembly. 2004 4Runner.
FYI It's worth it to get yourself a "Toyota Brake Spring Tool" or take a good look at a picture of one and make your own with an angle grinder to cut the middle out of a big flathead screwdriver so that there are two tabs on either side. Several manufacturers make one, like 'Cal-Van Tools CV364' that can be had for $20-25 or so. It allows you to reach through the hole and turn the keeper without too much fuss.
One trick I used to help hold the brake pads onto the hub while working on the push springs (toughest part of the job), is take a 1.5' length of velcro and wrap it around the pads. this keeps everything in place for the most part while installing the push spring assembly.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I didn’t pay attention to which side you were working on and I mirrored everything and it didn’t work🤦🏻♂️. For everyone reading the comments make sure that you have the right side and do the opposite if necessary .
Thank you for the video. This is pretty much exactly like replacing ALL 4 DRUM BRAKES on my 1967 Pontiac GTO. SMH, you would think that after 40 yrs, the automotive industry would have come up with a better design. At least this wasn't a big surprise for me.
This is definitely an old school design. I'm not looking forward to doing this on my GX. My Passat e-brake is cake. The rear brake pad caliper doubles as a regular brake and an e-brake. It has two lines. A hydraulic and wired line. I wish this was as easy.
Thanks for the info. I had a hard time compressing spring with retainers. Safety wired the spring compressed , installed , and then cut safety wire off. Took 2 mins
What worked for me was to use long forceps to clamp the spring contraption and locked the forceps then I could move the clamped spring stuff around to get it in place and release.
@@chieflouie2821 I tried that but the I couldn't get the zip ties out cleanly or completely and so the springs didn't give enough force and I had to redo it.
For the spring assembly that holds the pin in place (at about the 10:20 mark), you can just use two small zip ties to keep everything together, then simply attach it as one piece. Once in place, snip the ties (which fall away), the spring pops out and keeps everything in place. Far, far easier than trying to surgically insert, connect, and properly position three individual pieces to a small pin that keeps turning and falling out of the back.
Just gave it a thumbs up for the fast response. I did that same side and I used a VW light switch tool I made for my 73 camper. It fits just right in that hole in the hub. Tomorrow I do the passenger side. Thank you for your great response time.👍👍👍👍
I used an aluminum arrow shaft (tube) to get the 1/4 turn on that retainer spring clip assembly. It fit through the hole in the hub. Just hold the pin from the rear and push the tube and turn. Copper or steel tube would have been better because the Al would bend under the pressure. I couldn't find any in my garage at the time. Thanks for the vid, it helped me gets the parts in correctly on reassembly. Car work requires some swearing... you restrained yourself very well on the video my friend!
Hell of a video man. I had to replace a broken pin on my 4runner shoes a few months ago. Made a horrible noise and I figured out the shoes were hitting the rotor. Shoes will be good for a few years but Im not looking forward to getting back in there. To all readers yes he did make it look easy. Its a bitch. Sometimes i think you need a 3rd hand to make it all happen. Get creative with tools. My pliers wouldnt fit so I used part of a cutoff golf club shaft for the springs and pins through the hub hole. Props for making a solid PG video. Mine would have been filled with expletives.
I just did this with a flat head screw driver. It was a nightmare but it got the job done. Push the pin in the back and hold with your finger. Press the spring together and side it in. Then you can play with it until the magic happens.
Thanks for the gx470 video version of this, but to show the work, it would've been cool and looked a lot easier had you done a layout of all the parts, showing how it all hooks in before explaining it on the vehicle.
Thanks for your Video. The rest of the other videos made it appear that you had to pull axle. Saw your video and seen it could be done. It was the most miserable job I ever had to do but it worked. Thanks!!
This is like a pain in the neck, I don't know why Lexus did it that way, there should be a way to remove the rear hub to enable easy fix for mechanics. Good job bruh!💯
Wow what an itch of a job! Please add sequoia to the title took forever to find a video. Thank you so much! I had to replace the cables as they were stuck rusted. Thought I could just do one side to pass inspection but nope. Going to do the other next week.
Good job amigo! I was keenly interested starting at 10min in where you work on the dreaded spring, pin process. You did a good job of showing the process and it's truly a royal PITA! For anyone doing this project, I suggest putting a wide painters tape on the brake shoe surfaces in order to avoid getting grease on them. Painter's tape leaves no residue after you peel it off. Now, I'm going to try again to re-install those two $%&*#$ springs!!! My lower back just hates this project.
8:41 I could not for the life of me get the keeper on through the hole in the hub. i assembled the keeper, spring, and seat all on the pin first, tied a piece of 550 cord around the pin behind the spring seat, pulled outward on it to compress the spring completely, then slid the slot in the parking brake shoe over the pin. once it was in the slot, i used my third hand to maneuver the spring seat so the tab locked in the hole, then just cut the 550 cord off. I have not seen a worse parking brake design by any other manufacturer, it is the worst example of an antiquated system that should be deprecated and discontinued in general.
If you find yourself in a position where you are struggling to resassemble this Parking brake assembly as I was two things can help you quite a bit. 1) make a tool to compress the Springs that hold the brake shoes in. I made mine out of a leftover metal bracket about 6” long. I added a 90 degree bend in the bracket to go behind the Spring with a slot in the middle of the Spring to get behind the assembly. 2) the order of opperations I found worked the best for me from nothing was: 1) attach parking brake cable to shoe. 2) add pins into backing plate and build up both spring assemblies 4) rotate rear shoe into place while pulling spring towards you (compressing it) and then rotating the retainer clip to secure this side. 5) insert strut on top of hub with spring. 6) do the same for the non parking brake cable (front side) 7) attach springs to the top if assembly. 8) assemble the rest of the stuff on the bottom. This order along with another comment above about purchasing the Toyota Brake Spring tool or making one made for a simple, unfrustrating assembly process.
Man, thank you so much. Pure magic is perfect to explain this job. Nightmare. But your video saved me!! Thank you! 🤘🏼 I used a small pair of little scissors of my wife's. It worked so good to spin that fricken spring cap. Rock on brother's. I have now joined the horrible pain of messing with it. It took me 2 days because my hands are messed up from an accident. So this video is A+ "before we get too crazyy" hahahha
Somehow I have two additional small springs (2014 4Runner). Will have to look closely to see where they go. Its a closed circle on one end and an open half circle on the other . and it's white. coiled part is about 1/2". there's a long side with the open circle and its about an inch. the entire spring is about 2"
Very nice and profesional job! I'd like to see another video replacing the the Emergency cable, my SUV broke it and I want to see how I can replace it, this will be highly appreciated.
Thanks a lot mate! u saved my life :D everything pop out when a retire the rotor, and i didnt know how the fck reassembly everything again :D now my 4runner is running great again
Soon as he said this part doesn't come off, I was thinking if I need new parking break shoes, Toyota is going to have to do it. I can do the regular brakes, including replacing the rotors. But I'm not touching the parking brakes. If you fail to get anything back on, you're calling a towtruck. And I'm not taking that risk.
Similar setup to my Sequoia. That crooked spring pin is a royal PITA, getting it in place is a pig, the access hole in the rotor is too small and doesn't line up properly so you end up having to try and push the spring and cap on at an angle which makes it almost impossible. Here's an alternative. Insert the pin into the back plate. Then place on the caps and spring, then slide the caliper in position, note this is still tricky and requires patience and may take a few attempts but it did work for me. As regards the other side, I may just grease the friction points and apply brake cleaner, lol!
It helps if you get yourself a 'Toyota Brake Spring Tool like the 'Cal-Van Tools CV364', 'MAC TOOLS PBT1', or 'Horizon Tool 364' all of which are essentially the same and will fit through the hole and let you turn the spring keeper. OR just look up one on the intertubes and make one out of a big flathead screwdriver. Another popular way of dealing with them is to use small zip ties or wire to hold the compressed spring and keeper together which you can slip on the pin and then slide the slot in the shoe under it then cut your ties/wire. Personally I prefer to use the right tool for this job. It's worth it IMHO even if you only ever do this job once.
@@TJK0ng thanks. Doing the other side was a breeze. I saw the recommended tool you referred to in your reply online and fashioned my own from an old flat head screwdriver using my grinder. I’m all for using the right tools but there’s no way I was paying $20 for something I would probably never use again!
@@robbflynn4325 LOL, only after seeing your reply did I now realize it was actually a comment of yours on a completely different video about these parking brakes that led me to that tool in the first place. Thanks man!
@@TJK0ng No probs. Even after completing this job with completely new parts etc the parking brake does not work much better than before! Tried everything, adjusting, making sure the cable was OK, but looking at other comments it seems it is nothing more than a poor design. With a vehicle this heavy I suppose you would be a fool to rely solely on the parking brake anyway, as usual it passed the state inspection so that's the main thing!
Sometimes engineers just suck! This was designed as a one time assembly. How rare is it you replace the parking brake? They assembled the brakes on the backing complete, then pressed the assembly on to the shaft and installed it. Easy peasy! Whole 'nother story when service is required.
Unfortunately in NYS to pass state inspection the braking brake has to work. Many people don’t use them until it time for inspection and they are no good.
I have the same system in my 2006 Lexus LX470. To lock the pins with the springs is not easy. Very tight space and the pins are unstable. They moving back while applying pressure on the springs. I go back to them tomorrow. Not easy at all..
@@jth1987leb Ahahahhh.... I can see that. Patience and dedication are required. I never do brakes shoes previously... and I decide to not count on others who never show up after many appointments..
Thank you for posting the video, it’s hard to do sometimes and explain. I have a question though. I am confused on why they needed to be replaced. Are they not adjustable?
Please use proper eye protection when replacing brakes shoes. Learned the hard way with a mark on my face just shy of my left eye. Other than that, great video!
Can you make a follow up on how to adjust the cable slack etc. I know this is common amongst the GX more so than then the emergency brake itself failing. Great Video, I do a lot of my own work but this job is not worth my time lol!
djspock5150 it's the not cable that you adjust its the adjuster. Adjust the shoes out enough so they are rubbing and causing a small amount of drag on the inside of the rotor. You can also drive in reverse and pull the e-brake to adjust them, I think. But I'm not a mechanic
Same here...I started on drum brakes with VW Beetles. Have worked on cars for 50 years. And this one of the MOST F-up designs I have ever seen/worked on. (2013 GX)
Does it matter if you use green or black springs for the return shoes? They look similar to identical, but I don’t want to mess anything up if I can’t flip them.
Hi. This is a great video and I just noticed that you sometimes respond to the comments below so I have a question that I am hoping you can answer. We accidentally drove with the 2007 Toyota Sequoia parking brake on and it made a very strange sound like a flat or warped tire or something which we immediately pulled over to check on, but then we heard a strange sound and then a rattling while we tried to get off the road like something rubbing maybe, just not sure. Then, once the emergency brake was turned off, we drove away fine. But the sound was quite pronounced; how would we know if something snapped or broke? Is that likely or unlikely? Should we take the truck to a dealer for them to check it out? Any thoughts or input would be appreciated.
Kimberly Jaekel so I would would remove the rotor and take a look inside. You may just need to reset the adjustment wheel but you need to make sure nothing is broken.
@@jth1987leb Thank you so much for your reply. I really did not know if I would hear back. We will take it in and have them take a look if you think it needs an adjustment and/or the rotors removed to check for damage because that procedure in your video looked pretty tricky and we don't even have a way to lift it securely at our house. Thanks again!
Great video,you did however make one important mistake at 4:00 min the horseshoe clip you removed had it's ends pinched together for a reason.That is to encircle the pin more completely,the washer is a wavy-washer to keep the arm from rattling only, nothing more.What may happen if you don't pinch it like it was from the factory is the clip works it's way off the pin and makes a scraping noise right before it wedges itself between the drum and shoe,trust me,I used to do brakes in the past.
Thank you for the video. I have a 2010 Highlander that has a very similar parking brake. I have reassembled the parking brake and notice that for some reason I do not seem to have enough clearance between one of the "keepers" (specifically, the keeper on the shoe that has the clutch arm, i.e. the one with the c shaped pin. ) and the heads of the bolts on the hub that hold on the wheel. That is, when I spin the hub, the bolt heads rub against the keeper and even slightly compress the holder spring under the keeper. I was wondering if you experienced a similar issue or might have an idea why this is happening. Thanks again.
Mike Albright I didn't have that issue and the customer has never mentioned anything. Are you sure the brake shoe is fully seated on the dust shield? Is the pin set in the cut out of the brake shoe? Did you reuse the hardware because you should use new? Is the assembly pushed to far to one side because the whole thing pivots on the top mounting point? Are the rotors used and have a ridge because the ridge could be pushing the brake shoe forward causing it to come into contact with the stud? Are the studs fully seated to the hub? I hope this was helpful. It's hard to tell because I'm not there to see or feel it. I'm glad you like the video
You figured it out. Thank you. I assumed that a pin was a pin; so, I tried to be lazy and only replaced the springs. The Autozone pin is considerably smaller than the oem pin.
Mine had that problem of the retention clip ticking on the back of the studs and it was because the rear, 'bent' pin had been bent too much when I pulled the rotor off for replacement. I had to re-compress the pin to get it back the same length as the straight pin on the front side. and that fixed it. At 214K miles my 4Runner got its first rear brake job and the Parking brake was still pretty much like new....If I had not bent that rear pin while pulling the rotor off I would never have even had to touch the parking brake.
😢 I don't know where else to go. NO mechanic could figure out my problem. I know this the only place that has the answer. I have 98 4runner with 140k, which I gave my son to use. Recently, the car shutter around 50 mph, it feels like it's searching for gear (going up and down shifting) but I know it's not a transmission issue. Only a few think that I can detect, the tranfercase has a front drive shaft seal leak, probably half of the fuild is gone. And the other was a recent front brake pad change. Clicking sound is heard on driverside drive axle spinning it, car shakes around 60-70 after brake change. PLEASE can someone give me some pointer on where to look. Thx u.
Not being able to look at it, just going off from what your comment I would check the tires, look at all the drive train to make sure ujoints, cv shafts etc are good and check wheel bearings
Depending on which setting you have the gear box and transfer case in, yes. I believe if you have it in two wheel or rwd you’ll only need both rear wheels up to spin them but don’t quote me on that. All trunks and cars are different
Being an experience mechanic who has done tons of these brakes, it's painful to watch you try to spread open a retainer clip. Good lord, man. Put the screwgie in there and twist it open. You never closed the new retainer, either.
I had my brakes done at firestone but when I stop very fast it sounds like low brake pads. Is that when the emergency brake is working? I do not really understand the lexus braking system. Is the emergency brake pad something they would not have changed?
the emergency Brake/Parking Brake is a separate system from you regular braking system. the Emergency brake is cable driven and applied with the emergency brake lever in the center counsel. the other brake system that you use to slow and stop the car is hydraulic system controlled with your brake peddle. I am not sure what you mean when you say low brake pads. is there a high pitch metal on metal sound? the Emergency Brake should not be applied while driving.
When I apply brakes for a fast stop it doesnt really stop well (fade) and makes a scrapping like sound. I had a complete brake job done not long ago. I don't think they bedding in the brakes and the routers may be glazed.
I know they had to change the caliber pins and use longer ones when I brought it back for noise. Still may be wrong pins causing brake pads to skim the router surface.
thx you. i been wrenching for yrs ( equipment/fleet trucks )... and i never came across a POS setup like this.. cursing is a under statement. I see what i did wrong... thx aging 2012ish toy 4runner
jmason4x4 I’m glad I could help. I’m thinking this horrible design is a Toyota/Lexus thing. I don’t often get drum brake/parking brake job but I had a second gen Lexus IS in and it was the same kind of hell but worse. I made a video.
I've been an aircraft mechanic in the air force for 12 years. I've worked on c5s, c17s, jstars, and currently f16's. With all of my experience, this job is more difficult than anything else maintenence wise I have ever done. I absolutely despise replacing the parking brake assembly!
yeeeeeeeee not having a straight reach to the to the hold down pin is what made this job frustrating. Most cars with this style of drum parking brake have a larger hole in the hub that is directly over the hold down pins making the job way easier. Have you replaced the rear suspension air bags in this truck? That’s even worse.
@@jth1987leb I haven't done that yet, hopefully I'll never need to! F16's have a lot of tight spots, maintenance wise... But these parking brakes got me more frustrated than I've ever gotten lol. I ended up throwing in the towel, buying another rebuild kit and I'm taking it to a mechanic to do. Good video nonetheless though! Incredible how people like you take the time to help others out, keep it up!
yeeeeeeeee I’m doing the same thing right now holy shit this is a horrible design. I had to leave it for the night cuz I was so frustrated lol.
@@javierariza4593 I attempted it about 2 years ago. Never completed it, so I've been driving around with no ebrake haha
yeeeeeeeee lol I contemplated that
Great video man. Just wanted to add that this also works for the sequoia, I can confirm it’s the same assembly
I had a hard time assembling the parking brake on my Seqouia until I found this video. The only change I did was to use a small zip tie to compress those springs, assemble pin, guide washer, spring and lock in advance and fish it while attaching shoe.
Thanks for the video!. For the clip and spings that you have to fight to reassemble. If you squish the springs and hold it squished with two small tiwraps opposite each other. Cut one flush and leave the other long so you can hold and maniplualte it with it. Use small foreceps clamped on the clip and easily put it on the pin. Hold it in place while you cut the tie wraps, without tension it will easily come back off. Also the shim behind the axle has a flat spot that you can rotate it to for more room. Do it this way 2 to 3 minutes per clip spring and you will be done.
I'm going to try that. Had to take parking brakes apart to take axle out to replace bearing.
A tip: when you slide the rotor back on, try to get the open hole in the rotor where you can adjust the star wheel. I got my rotor stuck all the way on, rotor wouldn't turn, no way to back off the star wheel to get it back off. What a pain...
Someone probably already said this, but at least on my generation of 4Runner (mine is a 2008)you can pre-assemble the retention spring clips and springs and then slide the shoe in from the side. You just use one hand to hold the spring against the hub and slide the shoe in. then you just move the inner clip's retention tab into the hole....that is MUCH better than trying to get that clip on and twisted......
I was thinking about that option since one of them has slide off while unmounting the shoes. I will try that tomorrow.🤜🤛
Great video. I did something that helped me much more easily get the keeper/spring/and the pin in place. Because the pin on the one side is not straight, you can't just push your needle nose pliers in and twist the pin...the pin doesn't spin at all, so you have to miraculously get the hold-down spring cup to turn. I couldn't get it to rotate at all. Since I was on my knees, I prayed about it and asked God what I should do (really did - he answered me, too). I had the impression that I should put a small cut in the hold-down spring cup. I used some tin snips to cut a small notch in it - just on the side. I compressed the spring and got a good hold of the pin (using normal needle nose pliers), then I used a flat head screwdriver and pushed against the small notch I had created to rotate the cup clockwise. It worked like a charm and made this job possible.
Thank you. I had a keeper spring come off and get lodged in the works. Your video was a big help for my first time replacing the parking brake assembly. 2004 4Runner.
FYI It's worth it to get yourself a "Toyota Brake Spring Tool" or take a good look at a picture of one and make your own with an angle grinder to cut the middle out of a big flathead screwdriver so that there are two tabs on either side. Several manufacturers make one, like 'Cal-Van Tools CV364' that can be had for $20-25 or so. It allows you to reach through the hole and turn the keeper without too much fuss.
One trick I used to help hold the brake pads onto the hub while working on the push springs (toughest part of the job), is take a 1.5' length of velcro and wrap it around the pads. this keeps everything in place for the most part while installing the push spring assembly.
Thanks for the help with this vid. This was a miserable job. Followed your process of installing the spring retainers once the shoes were installed.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I didn’t pay attention to which side you were working on and I mirrored everything and it didn’t work🤦🏻♂️. For everyone reading the comments make sure that you have the right side and do the opposite if necessary .
Thank you for the video. This is pretty much exactly like replacing ALL 4 DRUM BRAKES on my 1967 Pontiac GTO.
SMH, you would think that after 40 yrs, the automotive industry would have come up with a better design.
At least this wasn't a big surprise for me.
This is definitely an old school design. I'm not looking forward to doing this on my GX. My Passat e-brake is cake. The rear brake pad caliper doubles as a regular brake and an e-brake. It has two lines. A hydraulic and wired line. I wish this was as easy.
Aren't disc brakes considered a better design? Or are you talking about the drum-in-hat Parking Brake?
I'm curious
Thanks for the info. I had a hard time compressing spring with retainers. Safety wired the spring compressed , installed , and then cut safety wire off. Took 2 mins
What worked for me was to use long forceps to clamp the spring contraption and locked the forceps then I could move the clamped spring stuff around to get it in place and release.
Thanks for the advice! Used safety wire & took about 20-30 min to assemble each spring & pin assembly.
I used Harbor Freight mini zip ties. Assembled them in advance. Inserted the shoes and fished the spring set into position.
@@chieflouie2821 I tried that but the I couldn't get the zip ties out cleanly or completely and so the springs didn't give enough force and I had to redo it.
@@Tr33People I used the zip ties too, and I cut the zip ties when done, pull the zip ties out with needle nose pliers,
For the spring assembly that holds the pin in place (at about the 10:20 mark), you can just use two small zip ties to keep everything together, then simply attach it as one piece. Once in place, snip the ties (which fall away), the spring pops out and keeps everything in place. Far, far easier than trying to surgically insert, connect, and properly position three individual pieces to a small pin that keeps turning and falling out of the back.
Just gave it a thumbs up for the fast response. I did that same side and I used a VW light switch tool I made for my 73 camper. It fits just right in that hole in the hub. Tomorrow I do the passenger side. Thank you for your great response time.👍👍👍👍
Could you post a photo somehow of this tool?
I used an aluminum arrow shaft (tube) to get the 1/4 turn on that retainer spring clip assembly. It fit through the hole in the hub. Just hold the pin from the rear and push the tube and turn. Copper or steel tube would have been better because the Al would bend under the pressure. I couldn't find any in my garage at the time. Thanks for the vid, it helped me gets the parts in correctly on reassembly. Car work requires some swearing... you restrained yourself very well on the video my friend!
Hell of a video man. I had to replace a broken pin on my 4runner shoes a few months ago. Made a horrible noise and I figured out the shoes were hitting the rotor. Shoes will be good for a few years but Im not looking forward to getting back in there. To all readers yes he did make it look easy. Its a bitch. Sometimes i think you need a 3rd hand to make it all happen. Get creative with tools. My pliers wouldnt fit so I used part of a cutoff golf club shaft for the springs and pins through the hub hole. Props for making a solid PG video. Mine would have been filled with expletives.
I just did this with a flat head screw driver. It was a nightmare but it got the job done. Push the pin in the back and hold with your finger. Press the spring together and side it in. Then you can play with it until the magic happens.
Thank you! Your method of needle nose plyers through the access hole helped! Don't know how or why but it helped 😭
Thanks for the gx470 video version of this, but to show the work, it would've been cool and looked a lot easier had you done a layout of all the parts, showing how it all hooks in before explaining it on the vehicle.
Thanks for your Video. The rest of the other videos made it appear that you had to pull axle. Saw your video and seen it could be done. It was the most miserable job I ever had to do but it worked. Thanks!!
I’m glad my video helped. This repair does suck!!!
This is like a pain in the neck, I don't know why Lexus did it that way, there should be a way to remove the rear hub to enable easy fix for mechanics. Good job bruh!💯
You saved my butt! I went all over the internet looking for a good guide for these, and yours was perfect
Wow what an itch of a job! Please add sequoia to the title took forever to find a video. Thank you so much! I had to replace the cables as they were stuck rusted. Thought I could just do one side to pass inspection but nope. Going to do the other next week.
Very nice video, thank you for it and the great explanation throughout. I will tackle this job this weekend!!
You’re welcome. Glad I could help
Good job amigo! I was keenly interested starting at 10min in where you work on the dreaded spring, pin process. You did a good job of showing the process and it's truly a royal PITA!
For anyone doing this project, I suggest putting a wide painters tape on the brake shoe surfaces in order to avoid getting grease on them. Painter's tape leaves no residue after you peel it off.
Now, I'm going to try again to re-install those two $%&*#$ springs!!! My lower back just hates this project.
8:41 I could not for the life of me get the keeper on through the hole in the hub. i assembled the keeper, spring, and seat all on the pin first, tied a piece of 550 cord around the pin behind the spring seat, pulled outward on it to compress the spring completely, then slid the slot in the parking brake shoe over the pin. once it was in the slot, i used my third hand to maneuver the spring seat so the tab locked in the hole, then just cut the 550 cord off. I have not seen a worse parking brake design by any other manufacturer, it is the worst example of an antiquated system that should be deprecated and discontinued in general.
deus402 I’m gonna try it this way
I've seen people use nylon cable ties - same method as you
If you find yourself in a position where you are struggling to resassemble this Parking brake assembly as I was two things can help you quite a bit.
1) make a tool to compress the Springs that hold the brake shoes in. I made mine out of a leftover metal bracket about 6” long. I added a 90 degree bend in the bracket to go behind the Spring with a slot in the middle of the Spring to get behind the assembly.
2) the order of opperations I found worked the best for me from nothing was: 1) attach parking brake cable to shoe. 2) add pins into backing plate and build up both spring assemblies 4) rotate rear shoe into place while pulling spring towards you (compressing it) and then rotating the retainer clip to secure this side. 5) insert strut on top of hub with spring. 6) do the same for the non parking brake cable (front side) 7) attach springs to the top if assembly. 8) assemble the rest of the stuff on the bottom.
This order along with another comment above about purchasing the Toyota Brake Spring tool or making one made for a simple, unfrustrating assembly process.
Man, thank you so much. Pure magic is perfect to explain this job. Nightmare. But your video saved me!! Thank you! 🤘🏼 I used a small pair of little scissors of my wife's. It worked so good to spin that fricken spring cap. Rock on brother's. I have now joined the horrible pain of messing with it. It took me 2 days because my hands are messed up from an accident. So this video is A+ "before we get too crazyy" hahahha
Doing some this weekend and this is gonna help !
thanks for making this video.
Thank you, thank you. Such a frustrating job. I am only doing one side.
come, do the other side. it will go by a lost easier.
Somehow I have two additional small springs (2014 4Runner). Will have to look closely to see where they go. Its a closed circle on one end and an open half circle on the other . and it's white.
coiled part is about 1/2". there's a long side with the open circle and its about an inch. the entire spring is about 2"
I know the video is old but you help me out a lot, getting the spring tool is the key, I really appreciate it thanks. I did subscribe to your channel.
Thank you so much
You put the spreader bar in backwards! Narrow end with spring goes to non arm shoe!
Very nice and profesional job! I'd like to see another video replacing the the Emergency cable, my SUV broke it and I want to see how I can replace it, this will be highly appreciated.
unfortunately the customer sold this SUV and up here in the salt belt these don't last long.
I'm stuck at 9:22 lol. For the life of me i can't put it back in 😆. I'll get it though. You are the man.
Thanks a lot mate! u saved my life :D everything pop out when a retire the rotor, and i didnt know how the fck reassembly everything again :D now my 4runner is running great again
Soon as he said this part doesn't come off, I was thinking if I need new parking break shoes, Toyota is going to have to do it. I can do the regular brakes, including replacing the rotors. But I'm not touching the parking brakes. If you fail to get anything back on, you're calling a towtruck. And I'm not taking that risk.
Similar setup to my Sequoia. That crooked spring pin is a royal PITA, getting it in place is a pig, the access hole in the rotor is too small and doesn't line up properly so you end up having to try and push the spring and cap on at an angle which makes it almost impossible. Here's an alternative. Insert the pin into the back plate. Then place on the caps and spring, then slide the caliper in position, note this is still tricky and requires patience and may take a few attempts but it did work for me. As regards the other side, I may just grease the friction points and apply brake cleaner, lol!
It helps if you get yourself a 'Toyota Brake Spring Tool like the 'Cal-Van Tools CV364', 'MAC TOOLS PBT1', or 'Horizon Tool 364' all of which are essentially the same and will fit through the hole and let you turn the spring keeper. OR just look up one on the intertubes and make one out of a big flathead screwdriver.
Another popular way of dealing with them is to use small zip ties or wire to hold the compressed spring and keeper together which you can slip on the pin and then slide the slot in the shoe under it then cut your ties/wire. Personally I prefer to use the right tool for this job. It's worth it IMHO even if you only ever do this job once.
@@TJK0ng thanks. Doing the other side was a breeze. I saw the recommended tool you referred to in your reply online and fashioned my own from an old flat head screwdriver using my grinder. I’m all for using the right tools but there’s no way I was paying $20 for something I would probably never use again!
@@robbflynn4325 LOL, only after seeing your reply did I now realize it was actually a comment of yours on a completely different video about these parking brakes that led me to that tool in the first place. Thanks man!
@@TJK0ng No probs. Even after completing this job with completely new parts etc the parking brake does not work much better than before! Tried everything, adjusting, making sure the cable was OK, but looking at other comments it seems it is nothing more than a poor design. With a vehicle this heavy I suppose you would be a fool to rely solely on the parking brake anyway, as usual it passed the state inspection so that's the main thing!
I replaced my entire parking brake system on both rear wheels on my gx470 yesterday...I would rather cut myself and drip alcohol on the wounds.
Thanks, had just the info I needed after taking mine apart.
No problem 👍
Sometimes engineers just suck! This was designed as a one time assembly. How rare is it you replace the parking brake? They assembled the brakes on the backing complete, then pressed the assembly on to the shaft and installed it. Easy peasy! Whole 'nother story when service is required.
Unfortunately in NYS to pass state inspection the braking brake has to work. Many people don’t use them until it time for inspection and they are no good.
Great video bud. Thanks for posting this.
damannoa welcomes
I have the same system in my 2006 Lexus LX470. To lock the pins with the springs is not easy. Very tight space and the pins are unstable. They moving back while applying pressure on the springs. I go back to them tomorrow. Not easy at all..
No it’s not. I cut out a lot of my anger from this video
@@jth1987leb Ahahahhh.... I can see that. Patience and dedication are required. I never do brakes shoes previously... and I decide to not count on others who never show up after many appointments..
Just curious why you didn't turn the hub in the beginning to decompress spring place holders as you did when you put them back in.
Thank you for posting the video, it’s hard to do sometimes and explain. I have a question though. I am confused on why they needed to be replaced. Are they not adjustable?
+1 on this. I would love to hear about the symptoms that created the need to replace them.
thank you...
Thank you for the video really helped. Much much appreciated...
Please use proper eye protection when replacing brakes shoes. Learned the hard way with a mark on my face just shy of my left eye. Other than that, great video!
Thank you for this video, it helped a lot!
monk96t you're welcome. I truly glad I could help
Can you make a follow up on how to adjust the cable slack etc. I know this is common amongst the GX more so than then the emergency brake itself failing. Great Video, I do a lot of my own work but this job is not worth my time lol!
djspock5150 it's the not cable that you adjust its the adjuster. Adjust the shoes out enough so they are rubbing and causing a small amount of drag on the inside of the rotor. You can also drive in reverse and pull the e-brake to adjust them, I think. But I'm not a mechanic
My question is should the breaking shoe pads move at all? Example if you move them side to side with a little force?
Great video! Thanks very much for making it!
pjtully1 welcomes. Glad I could help.
HI I replaced mine but the shoes were 1/8 of an inch bigger so my new disk didnt fit. any Ideas?
You should do car reviews as well
at 9:15 should the square turn of the pin facing the other way?
Same here...I started on drum brakes with VW Beetles. Have worked on cars for 50 years.
And this one of the MOST F-up designs I have ever seen/worked on. (2013 GX)
Man, I’ve been cussing these damn shoes for hours now and finally done. I’m never doing that shit again, I don’t even care how much it’ll cost!
Nice job, I learned a lot.
Does it matter if you use green or black springs for the return shoes? They look similar to identical, but I don’t want to mess anything up if I can’t flip them.
The hardware kit will have different colored parts depending on the manufacturer. All that matters is the same type of springs go in the same place.
Can I go aftermarket on these shoes? The oem is 4x the price.
thanks for the video
Nice job
maxnguyen22 thanks
Looks about the same on 5th gen 4runners too
Thank you sir
Hi. This is a great video and I just noticed that you sometimes respond to the comments below so I have a question that I am hoping you can answer. We accidentally drove with the 2007 Toyota Sequoia parking brake on and it made a very strange sound like a flat or warped tire or something which we immediately pulled over to check on, but then we heard a strange sound and then a rattling while we tried to get off the road like something rubbing maybe, just not sure. Then, once the emergency brake was turned off, we drove away fine. But the sound was quite pronounced; how would we know if something snapped or broke? Is that likely or unlikely? Should we take the truck to a dealer for them to check it out? Any thoughts or input would be appreciated.
Kimberly Jaekel so I would would remove the rotor and take a look inside. You may just need to reset the adjustment wheel but you need to make sure nothing is broken.
@@jth1987leb Thank you so much for your reply. I really did not know if I would hear back. We will take it in and have them take a look if you think it needs an adjustment and/or the rotors removed to check for damage because that procedure in your video looked pretty tricky and we don't even have a way to lift it securely at our house. Thanks again!
Great video,you did however make one important mistake at 4:00 min the horseshoe clip you removed had it's ends pinched together for a reason.That is to encircle the pin more completely,the washer is a wavy-washer to keep the arm from rattling only, nothing more.What may happen if you don't pinch it like it was from the factory is the clip works it's way off the pin and makes a scraping noise right before it wedges itself between the drum and shoe,trust me,I used to do brakes in the past.
The replacement kit comes with new ones. They are marked as “non-reusable” parts in the service manual.
Thank you for the video. I have a 2010 Highlander that has a very similar parking brake. I have reassembled the parking brake and notice that for some reason I do not seem to have enough clearance between one of the "keepers" (specifically, the keeper on the shoe that has the clutch arm, i.e. the one with the c shaped pin. ) and the heads of the bolts on the hub that hold on the wheel. That is, when I spin the hub, the bolt heads rub against the keeper and even slightly compress the holder spring under the keeper. I was wondering if you experienced a similar issue or might have an idea why this is happening. Thanks again.
Mike Albright I didn't have that issue and the customer has never mentioned anything. Are you sure the brake shoe is fully seated on the dust shield? Is the pin set in the cut out of the brake shoe? Did you reuse the hardware because you should use new? Is the assembly pushed to far to one side because the whole thing pivots on the top mounting point? Are the rotors used and have a ridge because the ridge could be pushing the brake shoe forward causing it to come into contact with the stud? Are the studs fully seated to the hub? I hope this was helpful. It's hard to tell because I'm not there to see or feel it. I'm glad you like the video
You figured it out. Thank you. I assumed that a pin was a pin; so, I tried to be lazy and only replaced the springs. The Autozone pin is considerably smaller than the oem pin.
Mike Albright I'm glad I could help
Mine had that problem of the retention clip ticking on the back of the studs and it was because the rear, 'bent' pin had been bent too much when I pulled the rotor off for replacement. I had to re-compress the pin to get it back the same length as the straight pin on the front side. and that fixed it. At 214K miles my 4Runner got its first rear brake job and the Parking brake was still pretty much like new....If I had not bent that rear pin while pulling the rotor off I would never have even had to touch the parking brake.
😢 I don't know where else to go. NO mechanic could figure out my problem. I know this the only place that has the answer. I have 98 4runner with 140k, which I gave my son to use. Recently, the car shutter around 50 mph, it feels like it's searching for gear (going up and down shifting) but I know it's not a transmission issue. Only a few think that I can detect, the tranfercase has a front drive shaft seal leak, probably half of the fuild is gone. And the other was a recent front brake pad change. Clicking sound is heard on driverside drive axle spinning it, car shakes around 60-70 after brake change. PLEASE can someone give me some pointer on where to look. Thx u.
Not being able to look at it, just going off from what your comment I would check the tires, look at all the drive train to make sure ujoints, cv shafts etc are good and check wheel bearings
@@jth1987leb thank U
Do you have to have all 4 wheels off the ground to rotate the rotor as I've got a rx 300 all wheel drive regards Steve
Depending on which setting you have the gear box and transfer case in, yes. I believe if you have it in two wheel or rwd you’ll only need both rear wheels up to spin them but don’t quote me on that. All trunks and cars are different
@@jth1987leb thanks for advice its constan 4 wheel drive so I'll lift all wheels have a good day
you forget to close the pin that holds the arm in place
Being an experience mechanic who has done tons of these brakes, it's painful to watch you try to spread open a retainer clip. Good lord, man. Put the screwgie in there and twist it open. You never closed the new retainer, either.
The hub assembly HAS to come off... how else would you get the axle out or install those drum brakes at the factory??
No it doesn’t. Watch the video
how do you wear out shoes on an emergency brake?
Rust. Just had to do this on my 4 runner because all the hardware rusted out and failed. good times!
I had my brakes done at firestone but when I stop very fast it sounds like low brake pads. Is that when the emergency brake is working? I do not really understand the lexus braking system. Is the emergency brake pad something they would not have changed?
the emergency Brake/Parking Brake is a separate system from you regular braking system. the Emergency brake is cable driven and applied with the emergency brake lever in the center counsel. the other brake system that you use to slow and stop the car is hydraulic system controlled with your brake peddle. I am not sure what you mean when you say low brake pads. is there a high pitch metal on metal sound? the Emergency Brake should not be applied while driving.
When I apply brakes for a fast stop it doesnt really stop well (fade) and makes a scrapping like sound. I had a complete brake job done not long ago. I don't think they bedding in the brakes and the routers may be glazed.
I did not know any of this until I just read about it. Not sure best alternative now.
I would recommend taking it to a different shop or the dealer and have them do an inspection of the brakes.
I know they had to change the caliber pins and use longer ones when I brought it back for noise. Still may be wrong pins causing brake pads to skim the router surface.
watching you open up the clip from brake shoe gave me anxiety.
Thanks! Total pain to do.
Thumbs down. When do you put the bottom spring towards the backing plate?
George Ortiz good catch. But it doesn’t matter if the spring is on the front or back side of the shoes. There is a cut out on both sides of the shoe
That's where my Toyota SUVs have them, in the (inner) back. I am missing an anchor spring (a bottom spring attached on one shoe to the backing plate.
thx you. i been wrenching for yrs ( equipment/fleet trucks )... and i never came across a POS setup like this.. cursing is a under statement. I see what i did wrong... thx aging 2012ish toy 4runner
jmason4x4 I’m glad I could help. I’m thinking this horrible design is a Toyota/Lexus thing. I don’t often get drum brake/parking brake job but I had a second gen Lexus IS in and it was the same kind of hell but worse. I made a video.
this looks so frustrating
Michael Perry the single worst parking brake I have ever done.
I am an ASE Master Tech, and Toyota should be completely ashamed over this garbage design. This is 2022,Toyota... not 1902.
Lose the obnoxious music
Thanks for describing virtually nothing. Terrible video for beginners
Then clearly you are an idiot.