As an Engineer, Option 2 is the right way to do it. It will tie in more strength from the vertical short walls. Make sure the city or county approves it & how they require it to be done. Also, with the new pieces running horizontal you will gain some storage options for lighter weight long items seldom used like ladders, lumber, fishing poles, etc.
Isn't he adding more dead load by doing that? I wonder if he'd even get 25# total loading at all. There needs to be an engineer stamped drawing of that roof system , PERIOD. Another option he might consider is using gussets. Who knows what they used for the purlins, too. He basically bought a commodity grade, enclosed carport with (possibly) half way decent roof metal with, what it appears to have, liner panel sidewalls. It even looks like they installed the metal's rain groove on the wrong side?
Option 2 is a clean cut work and effective to strengthen your trusses and roof load. Glad you had a better deal with the builder. Shit happens, you dealt with it head on. Good job and keep your videos coming.
I've worked in the Metal Building industry for 22 years. (I'm literally working on a metal building layout at work this very moment) I just still had a hard time with the erector not installing per code/design or the approved county plans. Taking the roof panels off would have most likely elongated the screw holes and yes it would have leaked. Still that was the erectors problem. I just don't like to see people not get what they paid for or agreed to. Also it's pretty cavalier of the erector not to build that structural design per code. I think you could have held his feet to the fire. (frames and roof panels) It's pretty serious that if he does not build to code and then the building fails(He could really have a legal issue) You now modifying the building relieves him of that liability. Not saying that your fix wouldn't be good. I'm actually pretty confident your welding would most likely be actually better. Just don't like the fact he didn't give/supply you what you paid for. Anyway... Good Luck Sir.
Great progress on the Dream Garage! Your TA is really cool! When I was 18 back in the fall of 78 I bought a Gold Edition T-Top 4 speed Trans Am! Back then right out of High School that car to me was just about the coolest thing there was! I kept it until 1996 when I was laid off when the plant I worked at closed 75% of it's production. I now have a really cool Mustang that could eat my Trans Am for breakfast in every category but I still miss that Trans Am! My daughter was young then and she didn't know what a Trans Am was she just called it our race car! I would put her car seat in the back & we would go cruising! Since it made a bit of noise she thought is was a race car and we had fun! She still fondly remembers the old TA! I have subscribed and will be watching more of your videos!
Thanks so much for the support and story! That was my dream car. My budget was to low for a gold edition though. That’s funny my youngest calls the TA a race car too. Thanks for subscribing!
I live in North Carolina and we don't get much snow BUT about 22 years ago we got 20 inches of snow in a morning. I will probably never see that again but be ready for it.
I wondering that as well. I've got a similar building rated for 170 mph Florida wind loads (I did a review on our channel). I don't like those angled brackets on the side and want to remove them and weld some 2.25 bracing above the 8' mark so they don't get in the way of sheathing the interior. But I also don't want to mess with the engineering (or warranty)!
Think of it like wood. If you have 16' rafters and want to reinforce them you have to go all the way from one end of said rafter to the other and connect them at the top plate and the end of other rafter (or the ridge pole) so the rafters can support each other at the peak. If you add a sister rafter that only goes 3/4 the distance you're not supporting anything. You're just adding weight and that weight is pulling down on the original rafter. Yes, even if it's welded. Any time you have to sister a rafter (or any load bearing member) the sister has to be full length. I'd go with option 2 but I'd install the uprights at angles creating triangles. A triangle is just about the strongest structure and it will look good. I would however take out the short pieces to allow full triangles throughout.
I'm going with option 2 for sure. I wouldn't move the angled bracing. I know how happy you are with your dream shop! I just got a 24' by 30' dream garage in metal also with lap siding to match my house. I'm loving it too!
You made the correct decision on the trusses. In the end, it's your shed, and you can have it any way you want to. I do love the idea of double trusses. Great job so far.
From strictly a layman's perspective, I would go with number 2. The small gussets from the wall to ceiling are good, and when combined with the longer horizontal supports and the vertical ties, I think it will be strong. I feel for you dude….My ex wife didn’t love me and moved out so I had to divorce her, so I as well, have truss issues……
Also in N GA, thinking about building another shop. Thanks for solidifying my reasoning for going with red iron or a post frame style building over the carport material!
Like your videos. Cleveland, TN here. Live in a red iron metal building with 3 shop bays. I really enjoy it. I'm not a good speller either. No worries. Keep up the good work.
Have been faithfully following your shop series videos and enjoyed your adventure. Every one of them I can't help but notice the light coming through where the roof meets the vertical aspect of the exterior walls. Is this a concern in shop heat retention or is air not able to escape through where light is being seen?
Run Parallel from the 2nd Girder up on both sides and bring diagonals from existing collar ties to center of lower. Doubling up doesn't give the same rigidity as a triangle.
I live in NC just above the Georgia line. Have been looking into this type of shop and was looking at viking pole buildings in young harris. Is that who you used and had problems with. Thanks!
Hi I have built 2 sheds of this size here in Australia and our engineers recommend the bottom cord of the truss needs to go from the outer walls and web truss up from that. This does 2 things, 1/ it ties the outer walls together to stop the spread when the load comes on, 2/ the web (NNN) transfers the load to the outer walls and stiffens the whole roof. FYI regards from OZ
I sold and set up these buildings for a few years back in the early 2000’s the double truss with 6” risers inbetween both truss and tie’n both back in the t bracket where you chose to do the 6” overhang with vertical sheeting on the roof form what it looks like.
It’s good to see that the builder did something to offset the issues they caused with their shoddy construction methods. “We don’t get any snow” was what they used to say down in Texas until the polar vortex hit last year. Now they are looking at things much differently this year. Regarding the trusses; the triangle is the strongest design in the world (as far as the experts know right now) and your structure reflects it everywhere. Look at the top and side braces on the trusses. In my humble opinion, based on 20+ years in building homes, if this were my garage I would install the 16 foot pieces below the existing cross brace and then tie into the existing one with angles that create a triangle for added strength. A single vertical brace does nothing for lateral motion. Take a look at online options to see what’s the best way to brace that gap and you’ll probably find somewhere that has a calculator to build your truss design.
You're going to lose more ceiling clearance with option 2 but it is the better option structurally and it gives you the ability to store long materials up there as kind of a loft space.
Weld a rafter tie all the way from header to header, making large triangles. You only need it on every other or every third one, and no verticals are required. We live in a high snow load area and that worked for us. Zero deflection. Good luck!
Bad advice comes free..... You need webbing. Otherwise all you have is a thick guitar string. Yikes, public school in this country is so bad! Glad I wasn't stuck in a public school long!
Have you considered the addition of an I-beam gantry? Use the top of the I-beam surface for welding additional roof rafter joist supports and the bottom half for a chain fall on a trolley.
Adding the second collar tie below the upper one is the best option. With supports between the two and one run continuously up the center to the ridge, Bolts would be best used. I am not an engineer but work in construction. Mavwrik below gave the best answer to your question.
Not an engineer, think i might be the only one here who isn't, but years of experience and some common sense says number 2, its going to be stronger and will tie everything in better.
I agree with your decision on not removing and re-installing the roof panels but I’d go with what the engineers say about the truss issue. Glad you’re (you are) getting things worked out and the building is holding up. Peace.
I see light coming through between wall and roof upper left of fish on wall. Just so you can seal it up. . Full width tubes resting on top of wall at ends of rafter. Needs to go all the way across from wall to wall to keep long walls from spreading apart. Good luck and keep going.
You are absolutely correct about the roofing removal and (false) expection of having a realignment of connectors through the roofing cover to the roof framing members. Good decision. But, I need to correct your reference(s) to the roof framing being a "truss". They are not. They are simply "rafters" with a "kicker" brace to the wall columns. A truss is actually a multi-member system consisting of a top chord, a bottom chord with integrally connected web members. Trusses, particularly when fabricated from steel, are generally shop fabricated, shipped to the jobsite and installed as a single framing member.
Well if your going to have a lift then you can have a support post next to the lift which will not be a problem. The next is a laminated beam with struts on top of them to the roof. Laminated on top of poles on each side. Wood is soo much eiser to work with.
Save the square stock for later. Use aircraft cable, turnbuckles and "U" clamps to pull tension at or near the bottom roof / wall junction to help carry roof load. The garage doors might cause some creative rigging. Just think - what is under tension already? Good luck, take care
Maybe I'm not understand where your suggesting to put the cable, but isn't a cable going to pull down more on the trusses that are already bowed down? It would want to pull them in and down. Additionally, it would get loose if if the truss bowed more. And then you'd tighten it again and it would just buckle the truss more. I would think you'd want to go with option 2 but you'd need to jack up both sides of the truss to eliminate the bow before welding in the longer cross section. Then any force pushing down on the truss gets distributed out onto the solid section of square tube that are bracing it.
@@ProjectDadLife Again I'll comment. Dude, are you a product of a US public school? Seems so. Shame on our schools. Stop. Talk to even a simple minded home inspector. He will tell you. Read a structural design book. All the stupid ideas here you need to ignore. Option 2 is the way to go, but please read a book on trusses ( vs rafters which is what you really have), how they work, and why. Option 2 with a good read. I know, you said you can't spell, but reading will improve that... and obviously you are also not trained in construction, but were smart enough to see the problem. No tension cables. Man ! Okay?! Thats how the walkway fell on the crushed cars and killed people in Florida.... because a bunch of idiot girls thought of a stupid idea about cables would work to hold a unspanned bridge. Not exactly the same but you get the idea..
@@ProjectDadLife No no no no no! For God's sakes. No more CABLES!!!!!!. This suggestion drives me crazy. Public school strikes again. As suggested, you need to plumb the walls with come along straps along the length, because your un supported rafters have surely pushed out on them by now. Then .... Do option 2, but read a book please! Dang you have to get it right....
The option number 1 it would be the best l sell and dising alot of this building in Arkansas and if it was 12gauge tubing What you fixen to weld on that would be better
Unfortunately there are many more than 4 types of buildings. What wind resistance are you looking for, how thick are your building panels, I know you usually have very little snow but what is the roof thickness. 😎🇺🇸👍
What I would do: option 3... From wall to wall with verticals to the points the short "truss braces" already connect and verticals halfway from those to the walls. Finish up making full wall to wall trusses. They probably didn't give enough material.
You know I think the longer truss with the vertical braces seems like it would handle all the structural problems,plus you’re doing the work so you’ll know the job will be done right, & that way you wouldn’t have to worry about anything caving in.I’ve got to give you props for not loosing your cool, & trying to work things out with the contractor.good luck & thanks for posting,it helps me think about what to look out for,when dealing with contractors in the future.good luck & thanks again
I know how bad your experience was But it’s still a nice looking building, if that means anything. I’m in the process of looking around for hopefully a similar size building with 2 small offices and a washroom at the back wall. Where I am We get a fair amount of snow in winter so I suspect the pitch could be different. The trusses you added could they have been bolted in?
Oh wow didn't know you were in Georgia. I'm currently in Athens, building in Elberton so I definitely want to avoid whomever you used. You are right there are VERY FEW places in N. Georgia that do these buildings because I've been searching.
I'm looking to do about the same thing and was hoping you could tell me what company to stay away from and I'm also in Georgia. I'm looking to do a 2 story, first floor car garage, and second floor home space. Pretty much my dream home. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance
The second lower truss will give you the most straight each side will work to support the opposite side . Two small vertical pieces up to the existing collar ties will make it even stronger .
If you do options 2 weld in the second truss above the lifting area will you be able to lift a truck or car to full height or will it hit the trusses I did this to my uncles garage and the lift area I left it out and when the lift went in ran it at the height of the post lift and it worked out great the other side I in stalled drywall and made a light weight storage area with speakers in the ceiling and spot light for bench and it is still solid today that was 22 years ago and he gets a lot of snow
Perhaps I missed the important details but you saw (were promised, etc) a truss. Now you have a different design. It is different, but what are the deficiencies to meet your specific location or need? We seem to be voting on "fixes" without knowing if or how deficient this design is.
I would go with option 2, but you need enough strength for at least 8 inches of wet snow. I don't know exactly what part of N. Ga. you're from, but I'm in N. Ga. as well, and that's what I would prep for.
Can't stand folks that point out grammar and spelling errors. First off, they obviously know what you meant in the first place, second; they show their own ignorance by trying to make themselves the spelling police. Ignore these know it alls.
I agree with Mavwrik, as a retired architect I would also like to add the purpose. The whole idea is like, take 2 lollipop sticks and hold them in a V. if you push down, like a snow weight, the purpose is so the roof wont spread at the walls or sag in the middle, that is what the trusses are for.
As a welder, I would go with option 2, now I overkill everything. So I would add the second horizontal truss as well as double stacking the roof brace; also I would weld in the vertical truss brackets from roof brace to short horizontal truss, as well as vertical brackets from short truss to long truss. Now thats on the NON lift side. On the lift side, since the longer trusses will not be there, I would double stact the roof brace, not sure what part of the country you are in, but if you are in snow country, then I would do that for strength; given the weight of snow.
The fix I would suggest is to hang two underslung steel open web joists, miter and weld, then connect with appropriate tubing to connect the underslung joists at the peak, being underslung you could get them to fit in above the wall, next to the existing material, and they would support the horizontal tubing that the roofing panels are attached to.
Obviously, any joint being welded together would help,especially if you opted to run underslung bar joists up there, which is what I prefer over single tubes, but costs are what they are. It sounds like you've already settled the issue in regards to legal options, I would definitely cut and fit a 16' truss web in as that is what is called for in the plans. Always build to the plans, otherwise you risk an insurance liability later on, or a permitting issue upon an inspection when selling etc.
Thanks for all the knowledge and support friends. Check out my new pergola build
ua-cam.com/video/yVoeGDs19SM/v-deo.html
As an Engineer, Option 2 is the right way to do it. It will tie in more strength from the vertical short walls. Make sure the city or county approves it & how they require it to be done. Also, with the new pieces running horizontal you will gain some storage options for lighter weight long items seldom used like ladders, lumber, fishing poles, etc.
Also an engineer and I agree, option 2 is stronger. A triangle is the strongest shape in construction for load bearing.
The lower the collar-tie, the better.
I love people!!
Isn't he adding more dead load by doing that? I wonder if he'd even get 25# total loading at all. There needs to be an engineer stamped drawing of that roof system , PERIOD. Another option he might consider is using gussets. Who knows what they used for the purlins, too. He basically bought a commodity grade, enclosed carport with (possibly) half way decent roof metal with, what it appears to have, liner panel sidewalls. It even looks like they installed the metal's rain groove on the wrong side?
Option 2 is a clean cut work and effective to strengthen your trusses and roof load. Glad you had a better deal with the builder. Shit happens, you dealt with it head on. Good job and keep your videos coming.
I've worked in the Metal Building industry for 22 years. (I'm literally working on a metal building layout at work this very moment) I just still had a hard time with the erector not installing per code/design or the approved county plans. Taking the roof panels off would have most likely elongated the screw holes and yes it would have leaked. Still that was the erectors problem. I just don't like to see people not get what they paid for or agreed to. Also it's pretty cavalier of the erector not to build that structural design per code. I think you could have held his feet to the fire. (frames and roof panels) It's pretty serious that if he does not build to code and then the building fails(He could really have a legal issue) You now modifying the building relieves him of that liability. Not saying that your fix wouldn't be good. I'm actually pretty confident your welding would most likely be actually better. Just don't like the fact he didn't give/supply you what you paid for. Anyway... Good Luck Sir.
Great progress on the Dream Garage! Your TA is really cool! When I was 18 back in the fall of 78 I bought a Gold Edition T-Top 4 speed Trans Am! Back then right out of High School that car to me was just about the coolest thing there was! I kept it until 1996 when I was laid off when the plant I worked at closed 75% of it's production. I now have a really cool Mustang that could eat my Trans Am for breakfast in every category but I still miss that Trans Am! My daughter was young then and she didn't know what a Trans Am was she just called it our race car! I would put her car seat in the back & we would go cruising! Since it made a bit of noise she thought is was a race car and we had fun! She still fondly remembers the old TA! I have subscribed and will be watching more of your videos!
Thanks so much for the support and story! That was my dream car. My budget was to low for a gold edition though. That’s funny my youngest calls the TA a race car too. Thanks for subscribing!
@@ProjectDadLife Mike my daughter would just say Dad let's go for a ride in our Race Car!
shop builds are full of surprises for sure I can't say I would want to do it all over
Lol that’s for sure.
I live in North Carolina and we don't get much snow BUT about 22 years ago we got 20 inches of snow in a morning. I will probably never see that again but be ready for it.
I live in wnc and remember that blizzard well
Love the T/A, I have a 1976 T/A. pulled the stock smog motor, put in a built 502BBC, 8 point cage, Turbo 400 manual valve body, 4 link, two stage NOS.
Have a 78 Trans Am in mine.
I wondering that as well. I've got a similar building rated for 170 mph Florida wind loads (I did a review on our channel). I don't like those angled brackets on the side and want to remove them and weld some 2.25 bracing above the 8' mark so they don't get in the way of sheathing the interior. But I also don't want to mess with the engineering (or warranty)!
Think of it like wood. If you have 16' rafters and want to reinforce them you have to go all the way from one end of said rafter to the other and connect them at the top plate and the end of other rafter (or the ridge pole) so the rafters can support each other at the peak. If you add a sister rafter that only goes 3/4 the distance you're not supporting anything. You're just adding weight and that weight is pulling down on the original rafter. Yes, even if it's welded. Any time you have to sister a rafter (or any load bearing member) the sister has to be full length.
I'd go with option 2 but I'd install the uprights at angles creating triangles. A triangle is just about the strongest structure and it will look good. I would however take out the short pieces to allow full triangles throughout.
I agree with the triangle truss supports
I'm going with option 2 for sure. I wouldn't move the angled bracing. I know how happy you are with your dream shop! I just got a 24' by 30' dream garage in metal also with lap siding to match my house. I'm loving it too!
I agree with you decision on the trusses. You got what you wanted so in the end you will hav the building setup the way you wanted in the end.
You made the correct decision on the trusses. In the end, it's your shed, and you can have it any way you want to. I do love the idea of double trusses. Great job so far.
Thanks for support!
From strictly a layman's perspective, I would go with number 2. The small gussets from the wall to ceiling are good, and when combined with the longer horizontal supports and the vertical ties, I think it will be strong. I feel for you dude….My ex wife didn’t love me and moved out so I had to divorce her, so I as well, have truss issues……
😅
Also in N GA, thinking about building another shop. Thanks for solidifying my reasoning for going with red iron or a post frame style building over the carport material!
I’m in middle GA. I was considering a similar metal building but I’ve been thinking the new style pole barn might be a contender.
I also am a fan of option 2 as that will keep your shorts walls from being able to spread apart over time
Like your videos. Cleveland, TN here. Live in a red iron metal building with 3 shop bays. I really enjoy it. I'm not a good speller either. No worries. Keep up the good work.
Option 2 is my vote! However, even if they take off the roof panels they should have to replace them with new ones. Not your fault.
Have been faithfully following your shop series videos and enjoyed your adventure. Every one of them I can't help but notice the light coming through where the roof meets the vertical aspect of the exterior walls. Is this a concern in shop heat retention or is air not able to escape through where light is being seen?
Good thinking!
Run Parallel from the 2nd Girder up on both sides and bring diagonals from existing collar ties to center of lower. Doubling up doesn't give the same rigidity as a triangle.
I like the daylight between the top of the wall and the roof.
I am curious if you had the choice of red iron building in your area
I live in NC just above the Georgia line. Have been looking into this type of shop and was looking at viking pole buildings in young harris. Is that who you used and had problems with. Thanks!
If you could do this process again, who would you look into for the building? I am starting the exact same process in lower Alabama
14’-16’ lower truss for sure! Haven’t watch the other videos it will be interesting to see what direct you went with.
What did you doo about the side panels “the wrinkled” area?
They replaced all of them and adjusted all the panels correctly. Thanks
Thanks for the update. I was wondering what happened with the county inspector about the trusses.
What about the wall sheeting?
They replaced a lot of them that were bad
2nd option for sure, it will be rock solid. I overbuild everything and that's how I would do it!
where at in N. Georgia? Peachtree City viewer here, keep up the GREAT work !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
How did you address the "Oil Canning" on the siding? Did you announce who supplied/built the metal garage?
We didn’t know if we could truss you! Lol!
Ha! Good one!
Hi I have built 2 sheds of this size here in Australia and our engineers recommend the bottom cord of the truss needs to go from the outer walls and web truss up from that. This does 2 things, 1/ it ties the outer walls together to stop the spread when the load comes on, 2/ the web (NNN) transfers the load to the outer walls and stiffens the whole roof. FYI regards from OZ
I sold and set up these buildings for a few years back in the early 2000’s the double truss with 6” risers inbetween both truss and tie’n both back in the t bracket where you chose to do the 6” overhang with vertical sheeting on the roof form what it looks like.
It’s good to see that the builder did something to offset the issues they caused with their shoddy construction methods. “We don’t get any snow” was what they used to say down in Texas until the polar vortex hit last year. Now they are looking at things much differently this year. Regarding the trusses; the triangle is the strongest design in the world (as far as the experts know right now) and your structure reflects it everywhere. Look at the top and side braces on the trusses. In my humble opinion, based on 20+ years in building homes, if this were my garage I would install the 16 foot pieces below the existing cross brace and then tie into the existing one with angles that create a triangle for added strength. A single vertical brace does nothing for lateral motion. Take a look at online options to see what’s the best way to brace that gap and you’ll probably find somewhere that has a calculator to build your truss design.
if i went through what you did, I would also have truss issues
If that is galvanized steel, be damn careful with welding because the fumes are super toxic from galvanized metals.
zinc
weld galvanize all day every day, it isn't that bad, definitely wouldn't be an issue out there in the open air.
Puleeez!
Just drink some milk
Yeah; milk solves it. At least that’s what I’ve always been told.
You're going to lose more ceiling clearance with option 2 but it is the better option structurally and it gives you the ability to store long materials up there as kind of a loft space.
what's up with the gap between wall and roof? is that normal?
Yeah it happens when you run your panels vertical. They have some foam inserts available to block off the gap.
Weld a rafter tie all the way from header to header, making large triangles. You only need it on every other or every third one, and no verticals are required. We live in a high snow load area and that worked for us. Zero deflection. Good luck!
Bad advice comes free..... You need webbing. Otherwise all you have is a thick guitar string. Yikes, public school in this country is so bad! Glad I wasn't stuck in a public school long!
What size of tube the trusses are made of?
What are your thoughts on just doing it in wood ? It would save alot of time
I have thought about it.
Option 2 with centre vertical and two angles supports like a house truss.
I believe option 2 is the best choice
I think option two is the best idea.
OPTION two for sure would be the way to go !
Have you considered the addition of an I-beam gantry?
Use the top of the I-beam surface for welding additional roof rafter joist supports and the bottom half for a chain fall on a trolley.
I have but dang this I beams are pricey.
Option two is what came to my mind. I’m not an engineer but that’s the way I would do it if it were mine
Adding the second collar tie below the upper one is the best option. With supports between the two and one run continuously up the center to the ridge, Bolts would be best used. I am not an engineer but work in construction. Mavwrik below gave the best answer to your question.
Why is there so much daylight coming in where the walls and roof meet?
Not an engineer, think i might be the only one here who isn't, but years of experience and some common sense says number 2, its going to be stronger and will tie everything in better.
I agree with your decision on not removing and re-installing the roof panels but I’d go with what the engineers say about the truss issue. Glad you’re (you are) getting things worked out and the building is holding up. Peace.
I had to subscribe . Your videos are sweet !
I see light coming through between wall and roof upper left of fish on wall. Just so you can seal it up. . Full width tubes resting on top of wall at ends of rafter. Needs to go all the way across from wall to wall to keep long walls from spreading apart. Good luck and keep going.
What happened with the "rat guard" issue?
They installed the rat guard when they finished it up.
You need to do whatever is needed to get it to pass inspection!!!
use a come along between vertical posts to straighten walls prior to welding in the collar ties - 2
You are absolutely correct about the roofing removal and (false) expection of having a realignment of connectors through the roofing cover to the roof framing members. Good decision. But, I need to correct your reference(s) to the roof framing being a "truss". They are not. They are simply "rafters" with a "kicker" brace to the wall columns. A truss is actually a multi-member system consisting of a top chord, a bottom chord with integrally connected web members. Trusses, particularly when fabricated from steel, are generally shop fabricated, shipped to the jobsite and installed as a single framing member.
Who did u use? I'm in nort ga. (Jasper) and need to get a building next week and I don't what to run into the same issues
Well if your going to have a lift then you can have a support post next to the lift which will not be a problem. The next is a laminated beam with struts on top of them to the roof. Laminated on top of poles on each side. Wood is soo much eiser to work with.
Yes sir. Thanks for watching
Save the square stock for later. Use aircraft cable, turnbuckles and "U" clamps to pull tension at or near the bottom roof / wall junction to help carry roof load. The garage doors might cause some creative rigging. Just think - what is under tension already? Good luck, take care
I’ve had a-lot of people recommend this. It totally makes sense and I’m really considering it. Thanks for watching and the input.
Maybe I'm not understand where your suggesting to put the cable, but isn't a cable going to pull down more on the trusses that are already bowed down? It would want to pull them in and down. Additionally, it would get loose if if the truss bowed more. And then you'd tighten it again and it would just buckle the truss more.
I would think you'd want to go with option 2 but you'd need to jack up both sides of the truss to eliminate the bow before welding in the longer cross section. Then any force pushing down on the truss gets distributed out onto the solid section of square tube that are bracing it.
@@ProjectDadLife Again I'll comment. Dude, are you a product of a US public school? Seems so. Shame on our schools. Stop. Talk to even a simple minded home inspector. He will tell you. Read a structural design book. All the stupid ideas here you need to ignore. Option 2 is the way to go, but please read a book on trusses ( vs rafters which is what you really have), how they work, and why. Option 2 with a good read. I know, you said you can't spell, but reading will improve that... and obviously you are also not trained in construction, but were smart enough to see the problem. No tension cables. Man ! Okay?! Thats how the walkway fell on the crushed cars and killed people in Florida.... because a bunch of idiot girls thought of a stupid idea about cables would work to hold a unspanned bridge. Not exactly the same but you get the idea..
@@ProjectDadLife No no no no no! For God's sakes. No more CABLES!!!!!!. This suggestion drives me crazy. Public school strikes again. As suggested, you need to plumb the walls with come along straps along the length, because your un supported rafters have surely pushed out on them by now. Then .... Do option 2, but read a book please! Dang you have to get it right....
Good luck
The option number 1 it would be the best l sell and dising alot of this building in Arkansas and if it was 12gauge tubing
What you fixen to weld on that would be better
You got a lot of daylight coming through there where the wall meets the roof might want to address that if you plan on making the shop weather tight.
End wall got have some cables from corner to wall in the x stile or wind going take this to next lot
Love the Bird
option 2 would be my choice
💪🏻💪🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻. Did alright ❗❗💪🏻
Agree Option 2 is the way to go.
Unfortunately there are many more than 4 types of buildings. What wind resistance are you looking for, how thick are your building panels, I know you usually have very little snow but what is the roof thickness. 😎🇺🇸👍
option 2 is the way to go. Makes more since to me..
What I would do:
option 3...
From wall to wall with verticals to the points the short "truss braces" already connect and verticals halfway from those to the walls.
Finish up making full wall to wall trusses.
They probably didn't give enough material.
You know I think the longer truss with the vertical braces seems like it would handle all the structural problems,plus you’re doing the work so you’ll know the job will be done right, & that way you wouldn’t have to worry about anything caving in.I’ve got to give you props for not loosing your cool, & trying to work things out with the contractor.good luck & thanks for posting,it helps me think about what to look out for,when dealing with contractors in the future.good luck & thanks again
I know how bad your experience was But it’s still a nice looking building, if that means anything. I’m in the process of looking around for hopefully a similar size building with 2 small offices and a washroom at the back wall. Where I am We get a fair amount of snow in winter so I suspect the pitch could be different. The trusses you added could they have been bolted in?
From an inspectors stand point option two is the correct way to go with it.
Option 2 would be the correct way man
What was the price you paid i had problems with mine to
what good would #1 option do? do #2 option.
Absolutely correct. They take the roof panels down and reuse them no way would they go back the same way
exactly what I was thinking
On top of all of that, I can see sun light coming through the building where the top of the wall meets the roof. Why isnt that being addressed?
What height is this building?
It’s 10’ wall and center roof height is right under 14’. Thanks for watching
Oh wow didn't know you were in Georgia. I'm currently in Athens, building in Elberton so I definitely want to avoid whomever you used. You are right there are VERY FEW places in N. Georgia that do these buildings because I've been searching.
I'm looking to do about the same thing and was hoping you could tell me what company to stay away from and I'm also in Georgia. I'm looking to do a 2 story, first floor car garage, and second floor home space. Pretty much my dream home. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance
The second lower truss will give you the most straight each side will work to support the opposite side . Two small vertical pieces up to the existing collar ties will make it even stronger .
If you do options 2 weld in the second truss above the lifting area will you be able to lift a truck or car to full height or will it hit the trusses I did this to my uncles garage and the lift area I left it out and when the lift went in ran it at the height of the post lift and it worked out great the other side I in stalled drywall and made a light weight storage area with speakers in the ceiling and spot light for bench and it is still solid today that was 22 years ago and he gets a lot of snow
Perhaps I missed the important details but you saw (were promised, etc) a truss. Now you have a different design. It is different, but what are the deficiencies to meet your specific location or need? We seem to be voting on "fixes" without knowing if or how deficient this design is.
option 2 but start at the first top hat and go str over to the first top hat on the ather side then support it
I would go with option 2, but you need enough strength for at least 8 inches of wet snow. I don't know exactly what part of N. Ga. you're from, but I'm in N. Ga. as well, and that's what I would prep for.
Option 2 and done. Will also give you a good spot to mount lights/fans.
I like #2
Thank you
Option 2 is best...
Can't stand folks that point out grammar and spelling errors. First off, they obviously know what you meant in the first place, second; they show their own ignorance by trying to make themselves the spelling police. Ignore these know it alls.
Thanks, it's never been my strong suit but it's funny how many people called it out! Appreciate you!
Also with option 2 you can store stoff up there bit like a mezzanine floor or just for long materials
I agree with Mavwrik, as a retired architect I would also like to add the purpose. The whole idea is like, take 2 lollipop sticks and hold them in a V.
if you push down, like a snow weight, the purpose is so the roof wont spread at the walls or sag in the middle, that is what the trusses are for.
Option two is the best
I have a very similar setup 24x30 I've had "11 of snow on my and ice several times. Still no problems. I'd leave it just like it is and rock on.
As a welder, I would go with option 2, now I overkill everything. So I would add the second horizontal truss as well as double stacking the roof brace; also I would weld in the vertical truss brackets from roof brace to short horizontal truss, as well as vertical brackets from short truss to long truss. Now thats on the NON lift side. On the lift side, since the longer trusses will not be there, I would double stact the roof brace, not sure what part of the country you are in, but if you are in snow country, then I would do that for strength; given the weight of snow.
#2 is the best option for sure
The fix I would suggest is to hang two underslung steel open web joists, miter and weld, then connect with appropriate tubing to connect the underslung joists at the peak, being underslung you could get them to fit in above the wall, next to the existing material, and they would support the horizontal tubing that the roofing panels are attached to.
Obviously, any joint being welded together would help,especially if you opted to run underslung bar joists up there, which is what I prefer over single tubes, but costs are what they are. It sounds like you've already settled the issue in regards to legal options, I would definitely cut and fit a 16' truss web in as that is what is called for in the plans.
Always build to the plans, otherwise you risk an insurance liability later on, or a permitting issue upon an inspection when selling etc.
It's better to be a smart feller than a good speller !