THAT'S ALOT OF WOOD! Best Metal shop interior wall DIY. Dream Garage build Ep.11
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- Опубліковано 15 вер 2024
- #dreamgaragebuild #barnwoodwall
DIY metal shop interior wall built out of barn wood.
Finishing the interior of a metal shop can be tricky! I think I found the perfect way. This wall turned our great and makes the shop so much more useful.
Hi my name is Mike and we're building our family dream, one project at a time. .
Project Dad Life here
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PROJECT TOTAL COST $552.00
1X12X10 ROUGH SAWN LUMBER 42 PIECES @ $10 EACH
1X4X10 BATTEN STRIPS 12 PIECES @ $5.00
1 BOX OF FRAMING NAILS $32.00
SILICONE AND FOAM $24.00
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That’s a good job insulating the walls.
Thanks Ed
Man that looks goooood. I've been wanting to do something like this to my man cave. Not needing the moisture barrier would make it a lot simpler I think. Might have to go for it. Very inspirational!
Thanks man! It’s worth it for sure we still love it.
Just subbed to your channel, you built your building/work shop & I did watch all the videos you made. The rough cut lumber on one back wall is exactly what I am going for also. Great accent when you walk into your shop. You are reading my mind, one this one.
love the shop and trans am in the background
Thank you
**Take the industrial cover off your quad 4s receptacle box and install a 1" deep p-ring, mount the two receptacles, then use a jumbo flush cover. That should cover up your miter cuts in the board.**
Thanks, with the info you have provided, I'll just stick frame my garage.
100% agree! First metal building I’ve owned! Everything is an extra pain in the butt. Stick frame from here forward for sure.
Yup everyone sees the initial savings and thinks it's so great until 5 years down the road it's rusted to shit.
Great video. I just had a metal garage built, and I elected to do the double-bubble wrap to keep the moisture out. Since you caulked the outside, where is the moisture going to go during weather changes? The felt paper will keep it out from the inside, but the area between the felt paper and the metal siding will still create condensation, where will tghe condensation go? What am I missing here?
Looks great! I would have burned them for an extra rustic it also burns off any mold or bugs
For the electrical, I would have removed the industrial covers and just gone with standard surface mount covers (like what is inside your house). Could either be plastic or metal surface covers depending on what you wanted. The 4 square box would need to be raised so the edge of the box is at the surface of the wood.
Thanks for the video. I like the vertical boards. I have a 24x48 metal building which is a garage/apartment/shop. It was built 20 years ago. It is metal purlin with metal siding and roof with sprayed in insulation. We live in Texas and the insulation seems to be good for our area. Framing with wood studs in the wall has been “fun”. Your idea looks easier. I have a few walls or portions done with wood studs screwed into the metal purlins with similar screws to what you used. Then nailing or screwing the 4x8 OSB onto those studs. In some places I screw the OSB right into meta purlin around a window. Anyway I am on a mission to organize my shop and need more walls to hang stuff from. I can hang things quite easily on wood. Again, thanks for the video. You have a great helper there. Mine are all in their 30’s now.
Thanks for the support Brent hope yours goes smooth!
Hey Bro Made a Awesome look. I would be very pleased with it . Good job again. Thanks. Craig Pa
Beautiful Trans Am!!
Thank you
Love the wood accent wall…we really enjoy your videos.😊
Looks so good! Nicely done.
Thank you
That looks amazing. I will definitely be doing something similar. Keep posting the garage updates.
Yes sir thank you for the support
Looks good man, i definitely would of installed reflective insulation under metal siding . Fyi mold will go away if its closed up. Needs air and multiple treatments. Also i would keep wood up at least 1 inch off concrete floor.
Find the center of your nailers and snap a line so that your nails are centered and uniform
That would’ve worked great!
Nice work, but Bleach does not kill all mold, only about 2% of molds. Vinegar is a better option as it kills 99% of all molds.
Good to know! Thanks for watching!
Hydrogen peroxide is also a good and safe option.
Hey.... what happened to Ep.10?... lol. I went looking for it and couldn't find it. Loving this garage build series - thanks for sharing it with us.
I like your thought processes, there's a bunch of different ways to finish a wall and your idea will be a good solid experiment.
While you had the 45's off you might have thought to paint them black or something so they disappear. Still something to be proud of and multipurpose (backdrop, functional tool hanging, UA-cam content, draft barrier, critter barrier, better acoustics).
Thanks man. I love good feedback like
This.
When your ‘project manager’ suggests ice cream for lunch… “Yes, please!”
Lol yep he keeps me in my toes
About an inch of closed foam is the way to go before the wood. The foam will add rigidity and strength actually. The foam you sprayed may not be closed and over time might affect metal.You could skip the felt after a layer of closed foam and allow ventilation. You don’t want mold forming. Mold is dangerous.
Thanks for telling me, I’ll see what I can do.
Looking good! (Although I’m only 5 minutes in).
Very first thing I would put in my garage is speakers w/ stereo equipment. Gotta have music to work with
Thanks oh yea! the only thing that really sucks is I can’t listen to music when I film. Copy rights on music is crazy!
I'm doing this staring today. Using 1x6 10ft pine.
Should have gotten closed cell foam. Fully sealed, no condensation issues, and it greatly increases the entire buildings rigidness.
I wished I had the extra cash for it. It’s pretty expensive around my area
Man that looks great brother!
Why not any Insulation? Sheet rock screws are not structural and are going to snap off in any kind of wind or weight on the roof
Looks Good 👍🏾
Thank you
Great job!!!
Yeah I got an 18 by 30 carport and I get what you're saying when it's cold out it's fine but if the weather changes real fast from how to warm the metal will sweat and it will just basically rain on the inside of your shop one thing is I wish I would have been told is that they have moisture resistant barrier stuff that you can have put down before they put the metal if I ever have a shop done it will have all that done before they even put the metal on because we're looking to buy a house and I want to build a shop like kind of what you did
Man that’s a Great Job!!!! I love the look of the wood wall. I’m building my new 20x25 in a few weeks. I plan on putting silicone caulk down under the metal frame base and spray foam on all the gaps. I’m having 2” roll fiberglass insulation installed and want to finish the interior like yours with the wood. I’m just curious what’s with the ratchet straps?
Thanks! That sounds like a solid plan for sure
Nice but superfluous
Mike the wall looks really good! I might look really nice to at least do the right & left walls as well!
Thank you! I absolutely plan on doing the side walls ass well. I’ve been trying to come up with an insulation plan first. Insulation as turned out to be a little tricky with these metal buildings
Would have foam boarded the metal before adding the walls.
French cleats would be cool
yes that would be nice! thanks for watching
Very nice!
turned out beautifuli just got a 20x26 garage and looking for ideas
I’m just curious where is the condensation going to drain cause not being insulated it’s gonna swet pretty decent if you attempt to heat it at all.
Would you do this to the four walls or would it potentially weaken the structure too much?
So I saw your video where you fired the building erector. Can’t find a follow up video to that. Curious how you resolved the issue. From subsequent videos, looks like you have the same building still.
2 years in how is it holding up? Can you explain how the load is transferred by doing the boards that way?
It’s holding up great! The vertical boards are actually resting on the ground then just attached to the wall.
perfect, just what i was looking for. what did you use on slab under 1x4 and is it PT? What screws did you use for 1x4? Construction adhesive or just caulk under 1x4?
Nicely done, don't forget to trim out the windows.
8:42 You should replace that 'RS' (raised surface) cover mounted on the quad with a deep two-gang mud-ring...learn how to 'measure twice, cut once'.
I know this comment is late, but the most dad thing I've seen is when your son gave you the pen, and you set it back down, hahaha
So 2 years later I am just curious how its holding up? Anything you wish you would have done differently?
Good move
Thanks man!
What size is the pieces of wood that the 1x4x10 is sitting on across the floor
Can't find what screws you were using. I have been using the Teks wood to metal screws and they are a bear to put in. Yours looked like Teks but with a coarse thread. Yours go in way easier.
The 1x4 in the middle screwed against the metal horizontally.. why did you screw it on leaving like over half the metal beam exposed? Was it necessary to be that height for some reason?
Man that's nice. What's the black tarp that u put up. Is it a moisture barrier
Thanks moisture barrier and a black back drop for when the boards shrink and have gaps.
i dig the wall!! im about to put a wall in my shop! i might follow your lead!
Thanks. I still love it after 6 months wouldn’t change anything
@@ProjectDadLife im trying to find a place to buy wood similar to yours
No insulation?
Those boards werent stickered correctly after cutting. If they were there would be no mold
Is your wood source for the barn wood near pendleton? Would like to do the same thing in my shop
If you search for rough sawn lumber in your area there’s always usually someone running a bandsaw!
For this I would have sealed everything with OSI rather than foam...
That’s good stuff and pricey
Not sure if it was smart to seal up bottom because if there is moisture then where does it go or drain too!
I just purchased one of these metal buildings! Even if your slab has a 4 inch wide battered edge all the way around, like mine was designed, these buildings do not even come with any flashing whatsoever between your slab and the building, they still suck up water underneath like a vacuum cleaner and dump it ALL inside your building!!! You have to seal everything!!! Outside, and inside! Hindsight says"I should've just done a pole building, or even a stickframe garage!
@@allencolvin4320 How would a pole building improve your water situation?
@@NelsonJ1 bc my building was designed to have a slab with a 4 inch battered edge, so it would have to have customized flashing to drain the water off from the outside wall and past the edge of the 4 inch wide battered concrete edge. With a pole barn, the metal siding would hang virticle, instead of horizontal like on my tube frame building. A virtical pannel would be hung 2-4" past a concrete slab, since pole frame buildings have the slab flush with the outside edge of the building. A simple drip edge flashing along the bottom would be the most needed to shed the water to the ground. With the engineered drawings I was sold, there is nothing along the bottom transition of my building.
You do have a point there. Flashing along the outside, and silka-seal caulking on the inside would still allow the moisture to escape
@@NelsonJ1better design and quality. Quite simply actually
How has it done with the cold temp? I’m trying to figure out the insulation deal now myself. I’m leaning toward foam board but had to ask how your method is working.
I did foam board. I have a 20x 26 building and foam boarded the whole thing. I am heating and cooling with a 1.5 ton heat pump. It stays warm usable and I'm in 10 degree weather right now.
Woodglut is nice for that.
I think you've made a huge mistake sealing the metal and leaving an open cavity. Love the work ethics!
Thank you. Honestly curious why do you think that?
@@ProjectDadLife moisture is going to condense in that cavity and not air flow to allow it to dry out. It's metal so it may take a while but it's going to rust out in my opinion.
I did a-lot of research prior and metal only condensates when it’s un insulated. When you put a barer between the metal and the atmosphere inside your shop it actually stops the condensation process. That’s why red iron buildings install the white vapor barrier over the trusses prior to installing metal roof. Just google how to stop a metal building from condensing.
Hey man I’m ping something similar in my building. On the electric boxes did you mount them on top of the metal framing or flush with them? Thanks
I mounted them flush same way they mount to a wall stud. Hope that helps
The first thing to hang on your wall is your stars and stripes flag yeah? I am an English viewer.
How about spraying those mouldy planks with bleach to see if it cleans them up. Nice work by the way.
Is that old barn wood
It’s new rough sawn lumber
@@ProjectDadLife is ruff cheaper from lumber yard than new from lowes
Woodglut has a lot of designs to choose from.
Awesome I’ll definitely check them out! Thanks
I hope the circular saw near your son, while on the wood pile, does not have a battery in it.
Why were some people so hard on you? Obviously theyve never gotten shafted by a contractor, happens alot. And to me too. The world stinks anymore, theyll understand when it happens to them😢
Thousands of lifetime projects with Woodglut plans.
So dangerous😢😢😢😢😢😢😢
Wow beautiful work dude. My thought tho. A tubular steel frame building is not at all ment for quality and craftsmanship. So unless you put every screw in. Might think about continuing to throw money at it. They look awesome from the road. But flying around in a tornado is kinda scary. Far as water penetration prevention. Um. Go outside. If your only sealing the inside. It’s too late. The water is doing it’s best. It’ll leak warp pop and sound like popcorn on a warm day. Dang bruh. For what it’s worth I’m sorry. But the work looks great. Just need to back up to the beginning. “Steel frame” refers to gerders and beams and pearlings. Good thick metal. Those buildings usually get standing seam. Heavy thick good quality. You just got a big erector set. Add more of everything. There’s never implied quality at eagle carports. O wow you even put the vapor barrier inside. What do you get paid to do on a regular day? Surely not contracting and thinking up your own ideas? Maybe a jobsite foreman. ? You know enough to sell it. But please don’t sell your ideas as facts. I’m stopping at 4 minutes. This hurts my wallet and efficiency. Wait about 6 years before saying I’m wrong. Water works slowly.
Do you feel better now? The vapor barrier obviously went over your head it’s not for water coming from the outside. when there’s a temperature difference with a metal panel via on a building inside vs outside it creates condensation on the inside.
@@ProjectDadLife there's always that one asshole. I for one heavily appreciate what you've done
@@Johnysoutherner lol right! Thanks man. Putting yourself out there on UA-cam A**holes just come out of the wood work. I usually don’t care at all it’s just human nature. This comment got me though like wth all that time spent just to try and tear someone down!🤦🏻♂️ Anyway thanks for the support man I appreciate it. God Bless.
STAY OFF THE TWO WHEELS FOR YOUR KIDS SAKE. good grief.
Yea, now you added a real problem. Mold.
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