3D Printing Trick for Stronger Vase Mode Prints
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- Here I show you how to use overextrusion to make a more sturdy garbage can on the SeeMeCNC Artemis. Then, if you don't want to use rigid plastic, I show you how to print flexible filament on the Artemis!
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Awesome, I love seeing my prints supersized! I've been printing these at 2mm extrusion width with a 1mm nozzle and it uses a ton of material, but it's SO strong and pretty much completely rigid at that point. It's also a great way to use up *garbage* filaments that fail or clog with smaller nozzles 😬
Did some vase in vase mode, but the problem is the bottom (first) layer: it's so thin! 🙄
Have you found that 2 to 1 width ratio works well in general for other nozzle sizes?
Thanks
Typically it’s a great ratio to use or at least start with and adjust from.
3D Printing Nerd have you tried wider than that say 3 or 4?
@@chazy10 You can set multiple bottom layers on vase mode prints!
This is a super handy trick! You can go even wider with bigger nozzles, like 2mm with a 0.8, if you're brave (insane) enough. >:D
The first one you showed would make an awesome cup coated in food safe epoxy
A circular reinforcement lip around the top of the can would probably also help with the rigidity, as well as preventing nasty knuckle-shredding from placing/retrieving items.
That's a great idea!
The flexible one would be a great reusable bin liner for the rainbow one XD
Yea nice way to bin money in straight and any other mean:-))
Joel with his old trash can be like
I don't wanna play with you anymore
Now all I want to see is a filament company with enough "courage" to sell a multi-colours rainbow filament with "Unicorn Farts" as its official colour name.
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE
I feel like proto pasta would do that. Joel, make it happen dude.
OMG yes
Shhhhh don't steal my custom proto pasta name before I can make it lol
Yvan256 yes
Thank you so much for this. I had no idea this was possible, and was planning to get a larger nozzle just for this. I now have an extremely sturdy littel 25% spiralvase :)
For anyone using Slic3R, the parameter to change is the "External Perimeters" in the Advanced tab of "Print Settings". On my Prusa MK3, I was able to get away with printing with PLA at 75% speed, using the 0,2mm speed profile and 230C.
Great project and information with Cura!
Thank you!
I love the facets (that how you spell it?) On that model when its that size. Freakin cool.
Cool and funny like always. My wife says you have a nice calming teacher voice. ;)
Aww thank you! Tell your wife she is awesome.
Just tested this... And it's awesome, much more resistant vase mode prints! Thanks for the tip!
0:22 It's legit. This man is indeed a nerd.
His default setting is "cover in stickers." It all checks out.
This is great. I'm glad the 3D printing UA-camrs can inspire each other and then share with us. I don't even own a printer but I'm still subbed to you and Devin and Angus and company. Such a fantastic community.
Thank you for such kind words!
The biggest one is awesome. I love big printings. Good video!
Fun as always. Got my prusa! printing a lack enclosure right now. Having fun with layering colour during a print. High Five
Layering color is so much fun! Return five.
Hey. I have a lack enclosure too but I had to figure out that the empty body of the lack tables is like a guitar body which makes the printer louder.
To make the printer less noisy again I have a foam layer and on that a thin metal plate. I tried a couple of different feet for the prusa but only the foam layer did the job. After that the printer is so quiet that you can print at night again.
@ I was going to try a concrete slab for sound dampening and vibration control. thanks!
I came back here, as I could remember the trick! Thanks Joel, this is a super tip..
I'm sure this has already been suggested, but you can play with using a larger nozzle. You could print wide walls fairly quickly with a .8mm nozzle compared to .4mm nozzle
$3000 for the printer, $29 for the filament just to print a trash can? Not sure, my wife will approve! Lol
you have just to hope she gone like the trash can lol
What printer so you have D:
Nice video. We constantly modify the nozzle width and extrusion width of our prints without changing the actual nozzle. Useful for things such as the trash bin or if you need to print thin walls.
Easily the largest flexible print I've seen, well done.
Truly an inspiration to tinker with your machine.
This is an extremely valuable advice ! Thanks a lot for sharing, this is EXACTLY what I need right now as I am testing different configs for printing a multicolor vase next week !
Thanks for the awesome idea! I've used 0.8 on my 0.4 nozzle with a similar, sturdy result.
I've been waiting for someone to tell me how to do this! Thanks Joel!
Just ordered my first 3d pen with PLA can't wait to use it when it arrived been watching 3d printing videos for a long time now
Thank you man. After some failures print i decided to listen to you. Great video great explenation.
Another use case for spiralise contour.
I recently had to print a handle for a hairbrush. There were two issues. Firstly, there was a z seam. Secondly, despite thick walls and lots of infill the handle snapped at a thin part when used. The solution was to just print the outer wall, and fill the container thereby produced with resin. The resin provides the strength, and the outer wall is clean. It can be strengthened further using rebar (or in my case the shell of an old pen). Furthermore, it was much faster to print.
You just get better & better. I love your huuuuuuuuge prints. OK now I gotta clean up my desk....
First off, your voice is so relaxing! Also, I didn't know about this mode, and thanks to you I have now discovered it! Thanks a lot, and I have been loving the content lately. Keep doing what you are doing.
Joel, any chance you could do a guide to the most commonly used slicer settings... why you would change them, recommendations, etc.? There are so many settings it makes my head spin... so to speak.
That is the coolest waste basket I’ve seen! Excellent video, maybe one of you best for me hat you printed, how well you explained it and the enthusiasm you showed. , Definitely something to consider auctioning with proceeds to the Children’s hospital.
This was the Best, MOST Funest 3D Printing video EVER. THANKS MAN!!
You had me at "unicorn farts in the form of filament."
i love your channel Joel, im watching a lot of your older content since i have recently discovered your channel, keep up the awesome content!
THANK YOU!
I've never experimented with larger extrusion widths -- will definitely give it a go. Thanks for the tips, Joel!
Welcome, and good luck!
If you double the bead width and half the print speed don't you have the same throughput so no need to elevate temp? Other than it might help with layer adhesion. 1mm nozzles works great too, or even 2mm works with 1.75mm filament which was a surprise. Make the filament spool spin pretty fast though! Entertaining video though - thanks.
On a scale of 1 to 10 of Nerdiness, you're a 42. Love ya, Joel. Keep being nerdy and awesome.
42! Perfect!
Wow. Just the video I was searching! Thanks Joel
Thanks for the over extrusion lesson! It was exactly what I needed to fix the issues with my vase mode prints!
This is amazing, after trying my first vase mode print with Cura on my CR-10S, I thought I would have to swap out my nozzle with a 1.0mm one because the walls were so thin, but I'll give this a try first. Thanks!
I. did. not. know. that.
I'm trying it out as we speak. Thanks!
I love how he calls his garbage cans garbage.
Dude this is probably one of your best videos yet!! I always wanted to know more about how you dial in the beautiful prints you show us.
Great video Joel, awesome setup you have there and an excellent t-shirt too. You rock!
Oh and I forgot to add, that flexible vase is amazing. Haha wow!
Great video, thank you. I tried this on my Ender 3 V2 and it worked brilliantly!
Does it really lay down a 1mm line, did you caliper it? I'm boggling at getting a line twice the diameter of the nozzle. How exactly does it do that?
Use the ribbed colored one for appearance and support, but print a SMOOTH-wall flexible filament liner for easy emptying and cleaning!
Now THAT is a great idea!
Looking for some ideas for vase mode I came upon your video. Tried it out, doubled the wall and it worked. Thanks for your great video ( and all the other videos!)
5:34 Mr. Joel Sir, have you ever considered "hidden" videos of the full time lapse for those of us viewers that enjoy that segment?
I enjoy the embedded video display, but I think this could be another option to explore as well.
I'm not sure how a "hidden video" affects your channel other than it is different than normal posts such as "Fan Mail Friday" which had to be moved due to lower viewership.
Would you mind mentioning how much plastic you use for each print you show on this channel? I think a lot of people would be interested to know how much plastic I need to "waste" to print that trash can. 300 grams? 1kg? Now we are forced to guess. Thanks!
If he uses PLA it's not broblem cause PLA is breaking in nature.
@@imdatoneweirdo3406 What are you talking? No problem? It is a problem! PLA is not free and I want to know how much I will need to use to make that trash can!
@@dtesta Yeah im not saying it's free, im saying it's not broblem with global warming. But i would say it Will take like 20-40m so some.
@@imdatoneweirdo3406 Not sure why you are answering to my comment then? I did not mention anything about the environment? In any case, 30m would be about 100 grams of plastic. No way it weighs that little with that size and thickness.
@@dtesta Well maybe but If you think, the shell is so thick that it will Weight less.
Inspired video idea. Video on hats, with at least one hat in particular. That being a Devo hat. As soon as you put that trash can on your head that's what I saw. LOL
Your shirt is AWESOME!
unicorn farts = beautiful prints!
The young people would call it rainicorn farts. lol
I've heard you mention Stronghero3D filaments before, I decided to pick some up in violet, prints great. Thank you
That's great to hear!
Excellent information. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you very much for the tips I was able to print my vase thicker and stronger and it turned out much better!
Put the flex one in the rainbow one and you have an impact protective liner for the pretty trash can.
OK, for that to work best you would have to scale the flex one slightly smaller. But the flex material might let it work without scaling.
I think it was already smaller, good idea!
I'll try it!
Neat trick! You need a second one for recycling redbull cans.
I always thought that the line width should be set as the width of the nozzle! So where do I change what nozzle I am using? Also with a 0.8 mm nozzle it should be possible to print 1.5 mm thick!
ok so I have watched your videos for some time! and I like to say thank you when I solve a problem with someone's help! so because of this video I found the problem! So THANK YOU.
Does anyone know how to do the vase designs?
Where are the layer lines??! What a perfect print...
i love stonghero filament i haved printed the open rc tractor with the blue PETG the finish and color are awesome! and not too much expensive!
I really enjoyed vid, thanks.... unicorn farts 🤣. Also hoping for some E3D Nozzle X - V6 review / testing....."The only nozzle you'll ever have to buy" ?? Best nozzle ever ??
I used the settings in this video and printed the most pristine vase i have ever seen on a CR-X
Another inspiring and joyfull video. Thanks.
One question: Are delta printers better for finecy parts because the base dosen't move, so it won't wobble?
A non moving bed will ALWAYS help in print details.
Why not just use a bigger nozzle? I tried printing a 1mm thick walls for a trash bin and it's super strong and feels great
For someone whos printer hotend doesn't have other nozzle options available/poor mans way of printing those thick walls.
@@astro143_ I found them for less than 1 USD on aliexpress and ebay. This method is probably if I'm feeling too lazy to change my only 3D printer nozzle to larger size.
Edit: I believe most 3D printer nozzles can be changed even if the manufacturer doesn't mention it or sell their own branded nozzles. Just check the size and give it a go 😁
@@3DThird true, but also how many weeks are you waiting for AliExpress to deliver from China?
You'd just have to check the threads on the nozzle to be sure and then recalibrate zero and all that, that goes along with the being lazy aspect of it.
Another thing that limits big nozzle widths is how much heat a hotend can put out. I guess it's still technically the same amount of plastic per second, but a bigger nozzle would be how I'd probably do it.
Effort
I tried this a while back: 0.8 nozzle printing a1.2mm line width.
You have to know how much plastic per second your nozzle can handle; I had to bump up the temperature up and slow printing down to make it work.
With a translucent material like PETG, thick layers and thick single wall make it nearly see-through!
Large features bend light less, tiny features scatter light more.
You don't print 1.2mm thick at 0.2mm layers; more like 0.5-0.8mm!
PLA comes out nice; good surface finish and strong.
Over-extruding has limits, and I could never get it to work right outside of vase mode.
Over-extrusion with wall and infill settings is problematic, so I gave up.
The flexible one looks a little bubbly. Are you printing it a bit too hot? What about its strength? Is that 1mm single extrusion wall stronger than two 0.5mm extrusion wall would be? In general, is the layer adhesion better with oversized extrusion comparing to multiple side by side extrusions?
I scaled the trash walker trash can to the max build volume of my ender 3 and have been using it regularly to throw away support material and bits of snipped filaments.
No waste separation ?
I didn't put a liner in it for the video, but a liner is in it now :)
Interesting, I thought extrusion width generally needed to be within equal to ~+15% or so of the nozzle width, and extrusion height needed to be max ~75% of the width. Ultimately you can't TELL the material to lay down evenly over a 1mm surface if you're pushing on only 0.5mm of it, or at least that's my assumption.
Some ironing effect from the nozzle .
You keep changing backgrounds and studios lol. But this background looks great
Thank you! Heh. I’m narrowing it down to only having three :)
I totally thought you were going to use the translucent semi-flex as a reinforcement for the other one by slipping it over it as a sleeve.
That intro tho :)))) nice video and nice tips here, Joel! Hope you have a great day!
Bro your new digs are sick! Love the fresh look. Been a while since I tuned in I think.
If your vase mode print is too flexible print a separate ring to go around the top. Stiffens the whole thing up beautifully. Just glue in place.
It’s awesome you’re doing Artemis prints! Good video Joel!
Thanks, man!
very well job some times in my case i print vase mode with line width 1.0 and everithing going well but the other times the leyers have space between them
"It's like Unicorn Farts in the shape of filament." LOL!!
Love your wall.
Thank you!
I was waiting for him to put the flexible trash can inside the rainbow one, would be such a perfect fit...
lol. Just as you were saying your can was boring, I was thinking "not if you covered it in stickers like mine!" Good to know there is absolutely nothing original about my sticker bombed desk trash can.
Yo, Joel have you tried those color-changing filaments? There are some really cool possibilities there, no?
That subject seems to be unexplored as I didn't find much examples or on any of the other prominent channels.
The colors that I've seen have been rather dull. The roll that I have has been relegated to utility prints that are not seen or unimportant.
Hi. I am a school teacher and I want plug and play affordable 3D printer so I can print stuff for my students to learn easier. I need printer just like a normal printer - the one that has affordable filaments too (like ink printer you buy ink, the printer is gratis). What are the chances I will get proper clear help/advice here on the exact model to get with the link and EU plug and no custom to an affordable 3D printer with filaments pack? Thank you.
Trying this right now, first try was 6h with 0.4mm nozzle and line with on anycubic vyper and my usual 190°C for geetech filament - definitely anything but sturdy, even had some unconnected layers 😂
Will post a comparison on the makes after the 24h print with your hints
That came out really cool!
I would like to find a modular trashcan. I have a MK3, and a can max size is still kinda small. Like one of the first thing I made was a trashcan. And I constantly deal with overflow.
BTW the can I made is made out of glow in the dark blue that is also blue in the daytime
You should put the flexible one inside the pla one as a bin liner
Wait... it was sunny in Seattle?
Is there a way that you could increase the extrusion width on the last inch of the vase? If it was thicker there it would make the whole thing sturdier. Another option would be to print a rim that would fit inside/outside/over the top of the vase and that would also increase the rigidity.
Awesome video
Spraying a clear coat on the inside helps. Sometimes 2 coats.
Great idea!
I think you're confusing increased line width with overextrusion. When increasing line width, you also increase line spacing. If your flow or extrusion multiplier is well calibrated, there will be no overextrusion when printing at a wider line width.
Using a wider line width is a common practice when printing pure polycarbonate, as it creates stronger layer bonds and tends to warp less.
Ohh, I've always heard pushing a wider line width through the nozzle as overextrusion. That's good to know, thank you!
@@3DPrintingNerd overextrusion is just the effects from a poorly calibrated extrusion multiplier or flow setting. It could also happen because of the wrong esteps and moisture in the filament.
I agree that it's probably best to leave the actual nozzle width in the slicer, but just increase the flow multiplier to 150% or more. Set a slower printing speed as shown, and Bob's your uncle. This distinction probably matters less for the vase-mode portion of the print, but it should help the bottom layers be a little neater. You could also set an on-layer script in the slicer above the bottom layers which sets the increased flow for the remainder of the print.
So, now the question is: Can we create a vase-mode version of any model in the modeling software, increase the wall thickness, and print them in normal mode, to get *really* strong walls in a print that still *looks like* a vase mode print? No one has to know it took 20 hours!
Nozzle width and line width are two different parameters. Increasing flow to 150% will make a horrible mess of the bottom layer. That is actual overextrusion.
Joel did the settings in the correct way.
@@olorf I would suggest not having 150% for bottom layers, but only for the vase-mode layers above that level. I'm not entirely certain that nozzle aperture alone *should* affect the volume of extrusion, all other things being equal, but I'll have to play with some slicers to see how they each treat it.
Can you 3D print a comb, too? (cheeky Portuguese humor) ;D And thank you, by the way; excellent videos.
Heh, yes I can, and should :)
Did you encounter the usual spiral mode blobs, due to the power failure recovery memory function in the cura slicer?
Might give this a shot. Thanks
If you want a easy natural feeling way to make your vase mode prints to be super hard simply coat the inside with some PCL Polymorph / Instamorph / Shapelock.. it's prototyping plastic. you can buy it by the kelo color it by hand with fade proof uv resistant Tattoo ink I suggest eternal brand. and it is hand moldable. It's cheap and you can get a kelo for about $40 it's super hard like Nylon and not brittle at all and it is like glue stick glue but way harder and not rubbery at all. It's bio degradable so if it's wet or something it might get some algae on it but you can always just re heat the PCL and recycle it again. You can make the PCL harder by impregnating other plastics or metals in it.