Irv, thank you for explaining these concepts in easy to understand methods. I'm just getting started with my printer and your content has been invaluable!
Really glad to have found this channel. Have learned quite a but since going down the rabbit hole of 3D printing. That being said, for the love of God help me with my Ender 5 plus! Thank you for the videos!
One cool thing to experiment with in vase mode - "Fuzzy Skin". It's under "Experimental". It adds a random jitter to the outer layer of the model, with vase mode this would be the only layer. It adds a degree of stiffness to a smooth surface, and you can adjust the degree of jitter. I had to print some eggs in vase mode, and making the skins fuzzy made them look more like real eggs (other than they were 7 or 8 inches tall and all sorts of weird colors).
Thanks for the video/help. I was working on a vacuum hose adapter in Fusion 360 and having a heck of a time hollowing out the three sections ("Shell" would only work on one section). Watched your video, set up Cura with no top, no bottom, and 1.2mm walls (which is what I designed to, anyways). You sir, are a great help (I subscribed a while back for reasons just like this). Looking forward to your review of the Ender 3 S1 Pro when the time comes...
Good analysis. Each technique has its place depending on the project needs. I also like multiple walls since they seem to be much stronger. I'm printing a Christmas Story Leg Lamp using 4 walls and no infill. It is almost 400 mm tall and needs to be strong. I'll post on the forum
There’s a work around to turn off the resume print mode with adding adding a line at the end of your starting g code. Add a M413 S0 ; as your last line and it will disable resume mode in Marlin.
10:27 - if you just increase line width does it automatically extrude more filament or you have to change it too? When I changed my thickness from 0.4 to 0.6 - overall lines, walls, top, bottom changed to 0.6 automatically, but the flow didn't change at all. It just doesn't show or we have to do something?
Great video, but increasing line width is not over-extrusion. Over-extrusion when there is too much filament extruded for the desired dimension; that is controlled with the flow setting(s) in Cura. Increasing line width will make a stronger print (like using a bigger nozzle) while increasing flow will make a vase more likely to be water tight.
Hmm... I get more stringing when I print the outer wall first.. If it's the retraction that's reducing the seam for you then maybe you'd be interested in the "retract before outer wall" setting?
Spiral mode is way, way more than 10% faster. E.g., I just made a cylinder, 60x60x100 mm, with 3 bottom layers. With spiral mode it's 1h8m, and with 3 perimeters it's 2h45m. (No other difference. No top, no infill.) If at all possible I prefer spiral mode, with a 0.6 mm nozzle, pushing 1.0-1.1 mm wide lines. Or if I'm too lazy to swap the nozzles I'm using a 0.4 mm nozzle with 0.8 mm thickness. If I need it to be watertight I spray a few layers of clear lacquer. It works, although it's a bit tricky to spray into an enclosed shape, so do use close-fitted safety glasses (or swimming glasses 😅) and N95 (or preferably better) breathing filter, because it's gonna swoosh back up in your direction.
About the last technique which I use I have a question. In my case the model has some area in the middle that are close to horizontal or even horizontal. They are considered by the Slicer (in my case I have tried Cura and Prusa) as a top layer and if I set top layer as zero they become zero too and missing, So the next layers will be printed on nothing. Is there a solution that I can set zero Top only for the topmost layers? I haven't found a solution yet. Right now I do it by giving like 6 top layers and deleting 6 layers from the end of the G-code manually.
Sounds like good ideas. Right now I'm printing my first spiralised object. IT will be used as wargaming terrain so I suppose that 0.4mm thickness will be to thin. I will try it with 2 or 3 perimeters. :)
Off topic but can anyone tell how get that play slider at the bottom of the screen, that shows the hotend travel. Is it a in the plugins? Thanks in advance.
Irv, I cant contact you directly but I recall that you’re big into vases. I just came from Amsterdam and saw a vase in the Rijks museum there called a “Pyramid Vase”. Have you seen these before and attempted ? I bought two similar pieces but the one that stuck out is about 3’ tall and is beyond exquisite. Please let me know if you’ve run across a stl for one
I'm curious about why the single perimeter spiral mode is likely to leak. Do you sometimes get tiny bubbles in the extruded pla that allows water through? I also wonder if there's some kind of spray coating you could use on the inside to provide a seal.
3D prints will often leak because the layer to layer adhesion isn't perfect. In the case of vase mode the problem is so much worse because there is only one really thin wall.
@@iskandartaib I see. Mine usually leak at the very bottom, because my bottom layers have some tiny gaps in corners. But if there's a problem with layer adhesion then fortunately there's easy fixes. You could increase the temperature (nozzle and/or enclosure), decrease the speed, increase the line width, decrease layer height, ...
@@marcus3d Yeah, the bottom is also usually one layer. Yes, you can do all of those things to try to get a watertight vase - another one is increasing the flow, and if the bottom is leaking, increasing the initial layer height without actually increasing the physical initial layer height. Not really sure if it's really worth doing all this.. I figure if you actually want functional vases it would be best just to NOT use vase mode and print a multi-wall, multi-floored object.
@@TommiHonkonen What's the problem? Or has he made a video about it since this? I can't seem to find him talking about it after this video but maybe I just missed it.
In summary: (1) use vase mode, (2) use thicker line width setting, (3) use a thicker nozzle and (4) don't use vase mode, think about seams. Reading this comment saves you about 17 minutes ;)
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Im glad to find this video. Had a couple of vase prints fail due to error ID10T. Thank you Dr. VAX!
Fantastic tip for creating a better vase mode!
Thanks
Thank you so much for this knowledge... I will be looking forward for more new videos!
Irv, thank you for explaining these concepts in easy to understand methods. I'm just getting started with my printer and your content has been invaluable!
Really glad to have found this channel. Have learned quite a but since going down the rabbit hole of 3D printing.
That being said, for the love of God help me with my Ender 5 plus!
Thank you for the videos!
One cool thing to experiment with in vase mode - "Fuzzy Skin". It's under "Experimental". It adds a random jitter to the outer layer of the model, with vase mode this would be the only layer. It adds a degree of stiffness to a smooth surface, and you can adjust the degree of jitter. I had to print some eggs in vase mode, and making the skins fuzzy made them look more like real eggs (other than they were 7 or 8 inches tall and all sorts of weird colors).
Useful info for me. Thank you.
My ender 3 kept pausing on vase mode and it was driving me nuts. Thanks for your explanation
thank you again, very informative!
Thanks for another great video.
Thanks for the video/help. I was working on a vacuum hose adapter in Fusion 360 and having a heck of a time hollowing out the three sections ("Shell" would only work on one section). Watched your video, set up Cura with no top, no bottom, and 1.2mm walls (which is what I designed to, anyways). You sir, are a great help (I subscribed a while back for reasons just like this).
Looking forward to your review of the Ender 3 S1 Pro when the time comes...
Good analysis. Each technique has its place depending on the project needs. I also like multiple walls since they seem to be much stronger. I'm printing a Christmas Story Leg Lamp using 4 walls and no infill. It is almost 400 mm tall and needs to be strong. I'll post on the forum
There’s a work around to turn off the resume print mode with adding adding a line at the end of your starting g code. Add a M413 S0 ; as your last line and it will disable resume mode in Marlin.
very helpful in printing vase like objects more strongly by printing with no infill and 3 wall layers etc.
10:27 - if you just increase line width does it automatically extrude more filament or you have to change it too?
When I changed my thickness from 0.4 to 0.6 - overall lines, walls, top, bottom changed to 0.6 automatically, but the flow didn't change at all. It just doesn't show or we have to do something?
thank you sir
Very useful, 👍
Great video, but increasing line width is not over-extrusion. Over-extrusion when there is too much filament extruded for the desired dimension; that is controlled with the flow setting(s) in Cura. Increasing line width will make a stronger print (like using a bigger nozzle) while increasing flow will make a vase more likely to be water tight.
There is a setting in cura that helps reduce seams and that is ti tell the slicer to print outer walls first. (this also helps reduce stringing)
You are correct. Thanks for sharing.
Hmm... I get more stringing when I print the outer wall first.. If it's the retraction that's reducing the seam for you then maybe you'd be interested in the "retract before outer wall" setting?
Spiral mode is way, way more than 10% faster. E.g., I just made a cylinder, 60x60x100 mm, with 3 bottom layers. With spiral mode it's 1h8m, and with 3 perimeters it's 2h45m. (No other difference. No top, no infill.)
If at all possible I prefer spiral mode, with a 0.6 mm nozzle, pushing 1.0-1.1 mm wide lines. Or if I'm too lazy to swap the nozzles I'm using a 0.4 mm nozzle with 0.8 mm thickness.
If I need it to be watertight I spray a few layers of clear lacquer. It works, although it's a bit tricky to spray into an enclosed shape, so do use close-fitted safety glasses (or swimming glasses 😅) and N95 (or preferably better) breathing filter, because it's gonna swoosh back up in your direction.
About the last technique which I use I have a question. In my case the model has some area in the middle that are close to horizontal or even horizontal. They are considered by the Slicer (in my case I have tried Cura and Prusa) as a top layer and if I set top layer as zero they become zero too and missing, So the next layers will be printed on nothing. Is there a solution that I can set zero Top only for the topmost layers? I haven't found a solution yet. Right now I do it by giving like 6 top layers and deleting 6 layers from the end of the G-code manually.
How can I do the "favorite method" on latest cura? I can't make cura draw the exactt number of walls tweaking on the "Walls" settings
What about the bottom? On the last technique how do you make sure the bottom is water tight?
Can you give me the adjustment in cura for using the ender 6 inspirallazed mode,because now it!s not possible to do. Stepping bug
Rgrds Theo
Hi how do I get hold of the file for that vase?
Thank you i came looking for something I did wrong my Ender 3 max did the same thing with the weave patern.
Sounds like good ideas. Right now I'm printing my first spiralised object. IT will be used as wargaming terrain so I suppose that 0.4mm thickness will be to thin. I will try it with 2 or 3 perimeters. :)
Off topic but can anyone tell how get that play slider at the bottom of the screen, that shows the hotend travel. Is it a in the plugins? Thanks in advance.
Irv,
I cant contact you directly but I recall that you’re big into vases. I just came from Amsterdam and saw a vase in the Rijks museum there called a “Pyramid Vase”. Have you seen these before and attempted ? I bought two similar pieces but the one that stuck out is about 3’ tall and is beyond exquisite. Please let me know if you’ve run across a stl for one
I'm curious about why the single perimeter spiral mode is likely to leak. Do you sometimes get tiny bubbles in the extruded pla that allows water through?
I also wonder if there's some kind of spray coating you could use on the inside to provide a seal.
Yeah, I spray my vases with a couple layers of clear lacquer, which makes them water-tight.
3D prints will often leak because the layer to layer adhesion isn't perfect. In the case of vase mode the problem is so much worse because there is only one really thin wall.
@@iskandartaib I see. Mine usually leak at the very bottom, because my bottom layers have some tiny gaps in corners.
But if there's a problem with layer adhesion then fortunately there's easy fixes. You could increase the temperature (nozzle and/or enclosure), decrease the speed, increase the line width, decrease layer height, ...
@@marcus3d Yeah, the bottom is also usually one layer. Yes, you can do all of those things to try to get a watertight vase - another one is increasing the flow, and if the bottom is leaking, increasing the initial layer height without actually increasing the physical initial layer height. Not really sure if it's really worth doing all this.. I figure if you actually want functional vases it would be best just to NOT use vase mode and print a multi-wall, multi-floored object.
💕👌👍
I've never heard it called a hamburger menu but I like it and I'm going to use it.
Yeah, I thought that was interesting, too... 😁
I print the three wall version all the time
Please send me and the green vase 3d model 🙏 thanks
Hi I wan to make a vase like that gold you have can you send me the 3d model please thanks
I would spill the beans on the layer change problem but naughty kids don't get Christmas presents
He's pretty honest I think he will.
@@NuttyforNissan I meant I will spill the beans I know what the problem is and how to solve it.
@@TommiHonkonen What's the problem? Or has he made a video about it since this? I can't seem to find him talking about it after this video but maybe I just missed it.
In summary: (1) use vase mode, (2) use thicker line width setting, (3) use a thicker nozzle and (4) don't use vase mode, think about seams. Reading this comment saves you about 17 minutes ;)
You need to look at STL meshes. They are not solid objects. The slicer makes them solid.
Well, the polygons have an inside and an outside, so sans errors I'd call an enclosed object with all its polygons facing outwards a solid.