Well said. The Cam and the crank work together. If either the crank sensor or the cam sensor is faulty. There will be issues.. an ocilliscope would be helpful in a diagnostic like this 👍🏽
Dropped a fuel pump in my truck and the damn thing wouldn't run worth a damn and you saying that all the distributor did was time fuel gave me the idea to spin the cap worked like a charm
Makes sense as to why Dodge's tend are times seem to have Longer crank times(depending on where the firing order the engine is resting at). It's trying to see where the distributor is so the ECM knows when to start the firing of the ignition and injectors.
The ignition doesn’t matter because the distributor takes care of routing the spark. But since you can’t have fire without fuel, it won’t fire up until it gets fuel also. I wasn’t aware Dodges take longer than other trucks.
@@moccasinmarine sometimes they do as well as the old 4.0L Jeep's. By my comment I wasn't referring to ignition being controlled, just more like the computer using the distributor as a reference for #1 cylinder compression stroke as to when to start firing.
I had 1997 ..chevy 5.7 Vortec pulled distributor put back right where it was, and could not get rid of CEL ran fantastic !. but would not be able to pass SMOG for reg .had to have a shop put it back on at 0 .and It still ran great..side note the distributor caps on those motor always seemed to go bad on me .still great motor in my opinion
I have a 1998 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9 that was having some minor idle issues so I bought plugs and wires. The first plug I pulled had the ground almost completely burnt off. I thought there’s my problem, and the next 7 were just as bad. I asked the guy at the parts house how it was even running. He said it’s a dodge, they run on magic. So there it is, the answer to all dodge questions, they run on magic.
The spark plug electrode is attached to the shell which is grounded. Without the electrode the spark just has a bigger gap to jump from the shell to the center. It’s not that much of a challenge for a good ignition system.
To my knowledge fuel injector spray is timed off the crank signal. The only thing that changes when rotating that distributor body, is spark time. So id say im in agreement with you. You could in theory do some shade tree testing and unplug vrank signal. Turn the motor over. And then go see if the exhaust smells like raw fuel.
I did all that in later videos. The injector is timed off the crank signal when permitted by the cam signal in Dodges. If there is no cam signal injectors won’t fire at all. I proved this in the next video on this topic.
@@moccasinmarine yeah I'm figuring that out right now. Trying to help a friend get his truck running after another shop put a lkq motor in, turns out they crushed the crank sensor.
First off you are trying to understand a Dodge system by relating to a GM product. Close but not exactly alike. On the Dodge all the pickup coil in the distributor does is detect the camshaft position & is thusly called a camshaft position sensor. Once the engine has started & is running it serves no purpose. If it (CPS) fails the engine will fail to start & a code reader will pick up the fault as no signal from camshaft position sensor. Richard Ehrenberger of MoPar Action Magazine explained this in detail and the engine will run fine w/ the CPS unhooked. A failed one can be easily changed on the road, I did one in the parking lot of a Captain Ds. Something to be very aware of is aftermarket electronic parts. I bought a Wagner crank trigger (pick up coil) from O'reilley's for a 2000 van w/ 3.9 V-6. I was going on a trip & wanted a spare. About 100 miles from home the check engine light came on, engine ran fine but the light was on. Got my handy dandy code reader out & read the code. Faulty crank trigger. Deleted code & went on. Light came back on & checked again. Same thing. Ignored the light & continued the trip. Got home & changed back to original coil. Took the aftermarket one back & got refund. Checked all the parts stores in my area & found out that all had the exact same part, just in a different color box w/ a different name on it. I went to a salvage yard & removed 3 coils from different vehicles, tested them & carried as spares. Chevy calls the thing one thing MoPar calls it something else. I think that the Dodge moniker is more descriptive of the function. Fuel syncronization?? A bit confusing. On removing & replacing the distributor: Follow the SRM, it works & I have never had a problem. All that is critical is that the rotor be at the #1 position of the cap. On the 5.2 & 5.9 aim the rotor at the #2 bolt on the left side of the intake manifold w/ # 1 piston on compression stroke & timing mark at approx 10 deg. advance. Will not set a code if this is done. Actually no code will be set unless the CPS fails or comes unhooked. MoPar nut n this end. Info is free.
Update: Ran a test to see if the engine would run w/o the CPS. Stared the vehicle (already warmed up) & disconnected the CPS. Engine ran fine, idled fine, accelerated fine. Shut engine off & tried to restart, no go. Apparently the only purpose for the Cam position sensor is just as you concluded and that is to tell the computer what cycle the #1 cyl is on to set the timing for the fuel injection.
@@larryhutchens7593 So if you agree with my claims in the end please retract what you said at the top about GM fuel injection being close but not exactly the same. I’m sure there are subtle differences and I never said they were exactly the same. I’m just making the claim that fuel synchronization has nothing to do with injector timing. You said a lot but didn’t really provide any facts to refute my claim.
@@moccasinmarine That was just a slight slam at Chevy guys giving MoPar guys advice about diagnostic solutions. I have encountered that with relatives & friends who took engine building tips from the Chevy crowd. An example: The guys a Powernation were building a 360 & were trying to get oil up to the rocker arms. The guy building the engine got frustrated at the fact that even though he had plenty of oil pressure by spinning the oil pump with an electric drill he could not get oil to the rockers. I was watching & kept muttering to myself "It ain't a chebby, it ain't a chebby". He later learned that you have to rotate the engine slowly so that the oil passages in the #s 2 & 4 cam journal will align with passages in the block to allow oil to pass. The little plug in one of the main oil passages is another bugaboo that first time MoPar small block builders will trip over if they get info from a Chevy guy. On my end I was building a 350 chevy for an 83 Malibu wagon & ran across a ball bearing in one of the oil passages Not the whole bearing assembly, just one ball about 5/16" dia. After asking several chevy guys at machine shops I got no solid answers. Ball bearing?? was the most common reply. I wasn't refuting your claims, simply confirming them. The term "fuel sync" was a term that I had never ran across in any Chrysler FSM & assumed that it is a GM term. Am I correct?
Fuel sync is a term coined by Chrysler to represent a “setting” on an adjustable distributor to synchronize the crankshaft and camshaft sensors. That’s the entire purpose of my Debunked Video series. Once the fuel sync is set, the PCM can sequentially fire the injectors. If it’s not set, the engine won’t start which in my opinion is a design flaw. The ball bearing you are referring to is to divert the oil from the pump into the filter and then back into the same port. When the block is cleaned the shops knock the ball out for thorough cleaning. Typically a small cup is driven in to replace the ball. Without the cup you’ll have oil pressure but the oil won’t be filtered. I will soon have a video on this exact subject.
@@moccasinmarine I understand the gist of your video but I have not seen the fuel sync term in a Chrysler FSM. I may have overlooked it, I do that sometimes. The term was foreign to me. The manual just shows how to properly install the distributor using marks on the cam position sensor & it works. There is no mention of using an electronic device for the install. At least it worked on the 4 engines I rebuilt. I can't remember what I did on the ball bearing thing, that was too many years ago & the last GM engine I worked on. From what you say it serves the same purpose as the small plug that is in the vertical oil passage in the MoPar small block. It does the exact same thing & can be overlooked by the novice engine builder. Easily removed by driving it out with a 1/4" rod down through the hole provided for the oil pressure sender unit. Most machine shops remove it when vatting a block. It just seems that a ball bearing would be an odd thing to use for a plug. First thought was that it was some sort of check valve.
Question…. I have a 97 5.9 ram 4x4… I put a double chain with 4degree advance/retard option I put it 4degree advanced… I have a code stating intermittent loss signal from crank or cam… I got her running pretty good by ear with what I now know being the injector pulse only but she runs decent but slightly brakes up and studder/stumbles literally a second then runs fine … ? What should I do , put the crank back to stock marking or just zero out the fuel sync… it’s a stock motor don’t know about mopar motors I’m a Chevy/ford guy
When you advanced the cam you changed the fuel sync by 4 degrees (or maybe 2 or 8). I’ve “heard” the window is plus or minus 8 degrees for cam sync but I don’t know that for a fact. So you may need to adjust the cam sync to get back within the window. But you might also be experiencing a distributor rotor phasing problem. In fuel injected engines where timing is controlled by the ECM and a crank trigger, it’s possible to position the distributor such that the spark jumps to the wrong tower in the cap. If this is your problem rotate the distributor counterclockwise a little and it should correct it. How much is a little I can’t tell you, maybe 1/2” at the edge of the distributor? This video at 2:38 ( not my video, his) has a great explanation of rotor phasing. ua-cam.com/video/FXcwTtyIFck/v-deo.html
I Agree with you that only tells the ecu were the camshaft is related to the crankshaft position for fuel and spark we called this many different name in the passed. these engine do not batch fire after 1000 rpm would never pass smog emission like said below. this is why they came up with Nox test not true they will only batch fire like you said if that pick up fail in the distributor for safe to get you back home and watch your fuel gauge on a travel fuel miles drop if the batch fire. there where engine out there that used to batch fire and not only did i go to school for them many year ago but they had to stop to because of Emission laws. Yamaha outboards was one that did and so on and so forth. haven't watched the other videos but going to now. Auto, Diesel, gas, outboards, and marine Diesels and gas. Certified in all
first I had to think about this getting old sucks. I have to correct my self this system works like this, that only tells the ecu were the camshaft is related to the crankshaft position for start up and helps keep that info but if it fail the engine will stay running but if you shut the motor off it will not restart. this system will never batch fire in any way there that what this system is all about,
Hey I really liked your video and it make perfect sense to me I am just your back yard mechanic but have been working on cars and trucks for 12 plus years and even with my limited knowledge of this you make it very simple to understand thank you so much I don’t know if you could help with this but I have a 1995 ram 1500 360 and I need to rebuild the motor but don’t want to go stock with it but to do anything to it I need to reflash the PCM on it but I am having one hell of a time trying to find someone that does obd1 so wanted to see if you know someone or if I sent you a PCM if you could help Thank you so much for the video I hope to replace these parts to help with the ruff idle and make it run like it should
If you go here you’ll see that you might be out of luck: www.hptuners.com/vehicles/ I don’t see 1995 1500 rams with 5.9 engines listed. They do list the 5.2 so you might take a chance with that. I have a 1998 so mine is covered. I would email them and ask if the 5.2 license will work with your 5.9 VIN.
My 1998 ram 2500 with the 360ci 5.9 magnum won’t start? I was driving down the highway at about 65mph and all of a sudden I heard a loud boom and then the truck died on me. I coasted off the highway and looked under the truck and my exhaust muffler had exploded! The pinch weld was peeled all the way down the muffler? I had just put this muffler on about 4 months prior to it exploding? Since then the truck will crank but won’t start? I have fuel pressure and a 1/2 fuel tank and I have spark from the ignition coil. I replaced the cam sensor and the crank position sensor and still it cranks but won’t start? I went to replace the timing chain and sprockets and when I got the chain off I tried to spin the motor by hand just to make sure it’s freed up. For some reason I cannot spin the motor all the around with a wrench on the crank pulley? Do u have any idea what happened?
You should never rotate an engine with the cam not timed with the crank. Some engines are interference engines and the pistons can hit the valves if the cam is in the wrong location. Rotate the engine very gently by hand tool until it stops. Back it up 20-30 degrees and then rotate the cam gently to where you can time it with the engine again. Only after engine is timed (cam timing not ignition) should you attempt to rotate it again. Once you can rotate it do a compression test to see if any valves got bent. Bent valves won’t seal. If you have decent compression in each cylinder then write back for more help.
You can turn the crankshaft with the chain attached to see if the engine is locked, try removing the spark plugs when you do this or it will not turn easily and smoothly turning against the pressure in the cylinders
I’m working on Parts 3 and 4. I’m going to show what could be making your engine run poorly if the fuel synchronization is not set correctly. Hint: it has nothing to do with injector timing.
The days of setting Fuel Sync at +5 were before SCT and HP tuners custom flashing for the PCM was available. Setting to +5 would help get rid of CELs from bigger Camshafts and help with easier starts. Now that SCT and HP Tuners allow for custom tuning setting it back to 0 and the tuning is the preferred practice! Many people thought, well if he done it to his big cam motor than it should be good for my stock motor. I have my Fuel Sync currently set to +5 because 210/220 duration and 110Lsa camshaft and no custom tuning it starts easier and idles better with no CEL. As soon asI have time to do custom tuning it will be put back to 0!
You did not understand the point of the video. It doesn’t matter where you set fuel sync as long as you are within the factory window and do not set a code. The fuel sync has nothing to do with fuel quantity. It only allows the pcm to run in sequential fuel injection mode.
@@moccasinmarine you obviously don’t grasp what I was saying. Yes on a 100% stock motor you can adjust the Fuel Sync. +/- 10 degrees and it does nothing. But in a modified engine with a larger than factory camshaft it was found to help the engine NOT trip CELs and start easier and run smoother if the Fuel Sync was set to +5 degrees, all before Custom tuning existed. Now that custom tuning exist set it to Zero and forget it! We can now adjust the Fuel and timing tables instead of manipulating a sensor! I have people ask me all the time who tuned my truck because I don’t have any CEL and am running a noticeable different than factory camshaft, that should be tripping a CEL. It hasn’t been tuned. I have the software just haven’t got to it!
@@DakFink Not going to argue. Watch the video again carefully and throw out any preconceived notions about fuel sync. It does nothing to the fueling no matter what cam you run. The video explains it.
@@moccasinmarine I have no Preconceived notions about it. I never once said anything about changing the Fuel Sync changes the Fueling! You asked where people got the idea of Setting the Fuel Sync other than at 0-degrees came from and I told you where it came from. I have been with this platform and modifying them since 1999. Had a 408 CUI with a supercharger, and a fried that ran Nitrous 360 both running 10-sec 1/4 miles long before SCT and HP Tuners existed. Both set the Fuel Sync (CaM Sensor) + a few degrees just to keep the PCM happy. It was not to add or take away any fuel. It was strictly to appease the PCM for NO CEL and a smoother idle. What is actually done for the PCM to be happy? Ask the PCM. FUEL SYNC is a misleading name that Daimler Chrysler for some reason decided to give their Cam Sensor. Also the same company that uses TORR for their barometric measurement in their MAP tables.
@@DakFink smoother idle implies fuel changes. Also what does “keep the PCM happy” mean? The point is the cam sensor is just an adjustable switch that lets the pcm know where the engine is. It does nothing else. I can see a high horsepower engine maybe, maybe stretches the timing chain enough that setting the fuel sync forward would help from setting a CEL. I think we are close to understanding the same but to try and persuade more is pointless unless I have the pcm code in front of me. I have HP Tuners so maybe I’ll fork over $100 one day for my 98 Dodge Ram but I doubt it.
In the video I mention End of Injector Timing. This is widely known as EOIT. You can search for EOIT on UA-cam and learn a lot about it. But it’s totally controlled by the PCM using the crank position sensor (once the cam sensor has synchronized the crank sensor) to fire the injectors at a specific location in the 720 degree rotation cycle. Here is a link to a good video on setting up EOIT on a Gen III LS engine. ua-cam.com/video/jTEA9eq2QGc/v-deo.html
That’s a good question and I was about to give you a bad answer. Since there is a mechanical distributor there is usually no need to sync the distributor with the computer. On pre 1995 GM EFI systems the computer sends an ignition pulse out 4 times per revolution and the distributor handles distributing the spark. I was about to say the Dodge system did the same but I now see there’s a difference. If you look at the crank trigger wheel (see link in description) there are 8 slots in the flex plate which will send 8 pulses to the computer per revolution. However this is a 4 stroke and there are only 4 ignition events per revolution. That means the computer will receive an extra pulse half way between each ignition event and it can’t fire a plug then or you would have severe pre- ignition. So there has to be a signal from the cam sensor telling the computer when to start counting crank trigger pulses so it can skip firing on every other pulse. GM systems after 1995 have 4 pulse trigger wheels so they fire the ignition coil every trigger event (plus or minus advance or retard amounts) and the mechanical distributor handles the distribution of the spark. They don’t need the cam sensor to synchronize ignition events which is why I suspect they will continue to run in batch fire mode with a failed cam sensor. This explanation may also explain why a Dodge engine will not start without a cam sensor. It can’t determine when to fire the ignition coil due to the extra crank trigger pulse.
I already made a third video. It’s in this playlist. ua-cam.com/play/PL6wJJenh5G97YzI8Q0t2W7Zm680EpIFKs.html But you need to make sure you have a working cam sensor and a working crank sensor. If you just rebuilt the engine then you need to make very small distributor rotation adjustments until it fires up.
Multi port injection only works up to 1000 or so rpms then it goes to sequential fuel injection to high rpm then all injectors are on full time that sensor works till the injector is on full time then it just throws a signal just like you said I believe that is a analog type if it was didgital it would different Like on coil packs but as far as setting the synchronization snap on used to make a code reader that you could see what the electricity went to the injector and how long it was on like setting the dwell on points those noid light just tell you if the systems working electrical but they are a life safer and it is quick to diagnose but the cheaper ones fail sooner god bless and have fun
I have the MT2500 by SnapOn that you are referring to and I can set Fuel Sync (Cam Sensor) activate and deactivate the injectors and watch them as they fire.
I respectfully disagree with the comment about injector firing timing in this video. It frequently comes up in my recommended videos feed. I will provide more proof soon. ua-cam.com/video/S1tBSP58QoQ/v-deo.html
Thank you for this video, I am doing work on a 5.9 magnum and plan to do the chain, upper end gaskets and ignition - I have found that swapping the distributor is a more cost effective way to do the ignition in these older vehicles because when you buy the cap,rotor, cam sensor etc the dist assembly is about the same $$ and you get new shaft/gear etc. I have done the gm dist that you show in the video in my own truck, and as long as you line up all the marks when you install it, all will satisfy the ecm. Somebody has put a bug in my ear about this very subject on the magnum engine and the “fuel synch” etc - the way I figure it, I will swap the timing set and then before reinstalling the intake, I will lift the old distributor out, and line up the new one exactly the same as the one I pull out and everything should carry on as it was before I started the repair.
No not practically anyway. The crank sensor is installed in a fixed hole in the back of the block. It picks up holes in the flexplate. The flexplate is indexed to the crankshaft with a dowel pin. This permanently locks the timing per the engineers design. The more practical way to change timing is with software to modify the calibration in the PCM. Until recently there was no software available. I think HP Tuners has a calibration editor for the Dodge 360 magnum engine now.
Well said. The Cam and the crank work together. If either the crank sensor or the cam sensor is faulty. There will be issues.. an ocilliscope would be helpful in a diagnostic like this 👍🏽
My problem had nothing to do with what you're talking about but gave me the solution to my problem thank you stranger on the internet
Mind sharing what your problem was and how you fixed it?
Dropped a fuel pump in my truck and the damn thing wouldn't run worth a damn and you saying that all the distributor did was time fuel gave me the idea to spin the cap worked like a charm
@@AvocadoToast_________________1 it is likely that you have a worn timing chain
I have a crank no start thing going on with this 5.2l magnum and I am having issues getting it running . Help .
Thanks .
Made sense to me.
Makes sense as to why Dodge's tend are times seem to have Longer crank times(depending on where the firing order the engine is resting at). It's trying to see where the distributor is so the ECM knows when to start the firing of the ignition and injectors.
The ignition doesn’t matter because the distributor takes care of routing the spark. But since you can’t have fire without fuel, it won’t fire up until it gets fuel also. I wasn’t aware Dodges take longer than other trucks.
@@moccasinmarine sometimes they do as well as the old 4.0L Jeep's. By my comment I wasn't referring to ignition being controlled, just more like the computer using the distributor as a reference for #1 cylinder compression stroke as to when to start firing.
My Dakota doesn't even finish a full crank and its running. Always been like that.
I had 1997 ..chevy 5.7 Vortec pulled distributor put back right where it was, and could not get rid of CEL ran fantastic !. but would not be able to pass SMOG for reg .had to have a shop put it back on at 0 .and It still ran great..side note the distributor caps on those motor always seemed to go bad on me .still great motor in my opinion
What was the P0xxx code when the CEL was on? Can’t help without that.
I have Dodge star 3 secons y die i lost inyectors signal i change all sensor
I have a 1998 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9 that was having some minor idle issues so I bought plugs and wires. The first plug I pulled had the ground almost completely burnt off. I thought there’s my problem, and the next 7 were just as bad. I asked the guy at the parts house how it was even running. He said it’s a dodge, they run on magic. So there it is, the answer to all dodge questions, they run on magic.
The spark plug electrode is attached to the shell which is grounded. Without the electrode the spark just has a bigger gap to jump from the shell to the center. It’s not that much of a challenge for a good ignition system.
To my knowledge fuel injector spray is timed off the crank signal. The only thing that changes when rotating that distributor body, is spark time. So id say im in agreement with you. You could in theory do some shade tree testing and unplug vrank signal. Turn the motor over. And then go see if the exhaust smells like raw fuel.
I did all that in later videos. The injector is timed off the crank signal when permitted by the cam signal in Dodges. If there is no cam signal injectors won’t fire at all. I proved this in the next video on this topic.
@@moccasinmarine yeah I'm figuring that out right now. Trying to help a friend get his truck running after another shop put a lkq motor in, turns out they crushed the crank sensor.
Could the ignition key be a factor,, by
A factor of what? The ignition key has nothing to do with how the fuel system runs.
First off you are trying to understand a Dodge system by relating to a GM product. Close but not exactly alike. On the Dodge all the pickup coil in the distributor does is detect the camshaft position & is thusly called a camshaft position sensor. Once the engine has started & is running it serves no purpose. If it (CPS) fails the engine will fail to start & a code reader will pick up the fault as no signal from camshaft position sensor. Richard Ehrenberger of MoPar Action Magazine explained this in detail and the engine will run fine w/ the CPS unhooked. A failed one can be easily changed on the road, I did one in the parking lot of a Captain Ds. Something to be very aware of is aftermarket electronic parts. I bought a Wagner crank trigger (pick up coil) from O'reilley's for a 2000 van w/ 3.9 V-6. I was going on a trip & wanted a spare. About 100 miles from home the check engine light came on, engine ran fine but the light was on. Got my handy dandy code reader out & read the code. Faulty crank trigger. Deleted code & went on. Light came back on & checked again. Same thing. Ignored the light & continued the trip. Got home & changed back to original coil. Took the aftermarket one back & got refund. Checked all the parts stores in my area & found out that all had the exact same part, just in a different color box w/ a different name on it. I went to a salvage yard & removed 3 coils from different vehicles, tested them & carried as spares. Chevy calls the thing one thing MoPar calls it something else. I think that the Dodge moniker is more descriptive of the function. Fuel syncronization?? A bit confusing. On removing & replacing the distributor: Follow the SRM, it works & I have never had a problem. All that is critical is that the rotor be at the #1 position of the cap. On the 5.2 & 5.9 aim the rotor at the #2 bolt on the left side of the intake manifold w/ # 1 piston on compression stroke & timing mark at approx 10 deg. advance. Will not set a code if this is done. Actually no code will be set unless the CPS fails or comes unhooked. MoPar nut n this end. Info is free.
Update: Ran a test to see if the engine would run w/o the CPS. Stared the vehicle (already warmed up) & disconnected the CPS. Engine ran fine, idled fine, accelerated fine. Shut engine off & tried to restart, no go. Apparently the only purpose for the Cam position sensor is just as you concluded and that is to tell the computer what cycle the #1 cyl is on to set the timing for the fuel injection.
@@larryhutchens7593 So if you agree with my claims in the end please retract what you said at the top about GM fuel injection being close but not exactly the same. I’m sure there are subtle differences and I never said they were exactly the same. I’m just making the claim that fuel synchronization has nothing to do with injector timing. You said a lot but didn’t really provide any facts to refute my claim.
@@moccasinmarine That was just a slight slam at Chevy guys giving MoPar guys advice about diagnostic solutions. I have encountered that with relatives & friends who took engine building tips from the Chevy crowd. An example: The guys a Powernation were building a 360 & were trying to get oil up to the rocker arms. The guy building the engine got frustrated at the fact that even though he had plenty of oil pressure by spinning the oil pump with an electric drill he could not get oil to the rockers. I was watching & kept muttering to myself "It ain't a chebby, it ain't a chebby". He later learned that you have to rotate the engine slowly so that the oil passages in the #s 2 & 4 cam journal will align with passages in the block to allow oil to pass. The little plug in one of the main oil passages is another bugaboo that first time MoPar small block builders will trip over if they get info from a Chevy guy. On my end I was building a 350 chevy for an 83 Malibu wagon & ran across a ball bearing in one of the oil passages Not the whole bearing assembly, just one ball about 5/16" dia. After asking several chevy guys at machine shops I got no solid answers. Ball bearing?? was the most common reply. I wasn't refuting your claims, simply confirming them. The term "fuel sync" was a term that I had never ran across in any Chrysler FSM & assumed that it is a GM term. Am I correct?
Fuel sync is a term coined by Chrysler to represent a “setting” on an adjustable distributor to synchronize the crankshaft and camshaft sensors. That’s the entire purpose of my Debunked Video series. Once the fuel sync is set, the PCM can sequentially fire the injectors. If it’s not set, the engine won’t start which in my opinion is a design flaw. The ball bearing you are referring to is to divert the oil from the pump into the filter and then back into the same port. When the block is cleaned the shops knock the ball out for thorough cleaning. Typically a small cup is driven in to replace the ball. Without the cup you’ll have oil pressure but the oil won’t be filtered. I will soon have a video on this exact subject.
@@moccasinmarine I understand the gist of your video but I have not seen the fuel sync term in a Chrysler FSM. I may have overlooked it, I do that sometimes. The term was foreign to me. The manual just shows how to properly install the distributor using marks on the cam position sensor & it works. There is no mention of using an electronic device for the install. At least it worked on the 4 engines I rebuilt. I can't remember what I did on the ball bearing thing, that was too many years ago & the last GM engine I worked on. From what you say it serves the same purpose as the small plug that is in the vertical oil passage in the MoPar small block. It does the exact same thing & can be overlooked by the novice engine builder. Easily removed by driving it out with a 1/4" rod down through the hole provided for the oil pressure sender unit. Most machine shops remove it when vatting a block. It just seems that a ball bearing would be an odd thing to use for a plug. First thought was that it was some sort of check valve.
Question…. I have a 97 5.9 ram 4x4… I put a double chain with 4degree advance/retard option I put it 4degree advanced… I have a code stating intermittent loss signal from crank or cam… I got her running pretty good by ear with what I now know being the injector pulse only but she runs decent but slightly brakes up and studder/stumbles literally a second then runs fine … ? What should I do , put the crank back to stock marking or just zero out the fuel sync… it’s a stock motor don’t know about mopar motors I’m a Chevy/ford guy
When you advanced the cam you changed the fuel sync by 4 degrees (or maybe 2 or 8). I’ve “heard” the window is plus or minus 8 degrees for cam sync but I don’t know that for a fact. So you may need to adjust the cam sync to get back within the window.
But you might also be experiencing a distributor rotor phasing problem. In fuel injected engines where timing is controlled by the ECM and a crank trigger, it’s possible to position the distributor such that the spark jumps to the wrong tower in the cap. If this is your problem rotate the distributor counterclockwise a little and it should correct it. How much is a little I can’t tell you, maybe 1/2” at the edge of the distributor? This video at 2:38 ( not my video, his) has a great explanation of rotor phasing.
ua-cam.com/video/FXcwTtyIFck/v-deo.html
I Agree with you that only tells the ecu were the camshaft is related to the crankshaft position for fuel and spark we called this many different name in the passed. these engine do not batch fire after 1000 rpm would never pass smog emission like said below. this is why they came up with Nox test not true they will only batch fire like you said if that pick up fail in the distributor for safe to get you back home and watch your fuel gauge on a travel fuel miles drop if the batch fire. there where engine out there that used to batch fire and not only did i go to school for them many year ago but they had to stop to because of Emission laws. Yamaha outboards was one that did and so on and so forth. haven't watched the other videos but going to now. Auto, Diesel, gas, outboards, and marine Diesels and gas. Certified in all
first I had to think about this getting old sucks. I have to correct my self this system works like this, that only tells the ecu were the camshaft is related to the crankshaft position for start up and helps keep that info but if it fail the engine will stay running but if you shut the motor off it will not restart. this system will never batch fire in any way there that what this system is all about,
Hey I really liked your video and it make perfect sense to me
I am just your back yard mechanic but have been working on cars and trucks for 12 plus years and even with my limited knowledge of this you make it very simple to understand thank you so much
I don’t know if you could help with this but I have a 1995 ram 1500 360 and I need to rebuild the motor but don’t want to go stock with it but to do anything to it I need to reflash the PCM on it but I am having one hell of a time trying to find someone that does obd1 so wanted to see if you know someone or if I sent you a PCM if you could help
Thank you so much for the video I hope to replace these parts to help with the ruff idle and make it run like it should
If you go here you’ll see that you might be out of luck:
www.hptuners.com/vehicles/
I don’t see 1995 1500 rams with 5.9 engines listed. They do list the 5.2 so you might take a chance with that. I have a 1998 so mine is covered. I would email them and ask if the 5.2 license will work with your 5.9 VIN.
My 1998 ram 2500 with the 360ci 5.9 magnum won’t start?
I was driving down the highway at about 65mph and all of a sudden I heard a loud boom and then the truck died on me. I coasted off the highway and looked under the truck and my exhaust muffler had exploded! The pinch weld was peeled all the way down the muffler? I had just put this muffler on about 4 months prior to it exploding? Since then the truck will crank but won’t start? I have fuel pressure and a 1/2 fuel tank and I have spark from the ignition coil. I replaced the cam sensor and the crank position sensor and still it cranks but won’t start?
I went to replace the timing chain and sprockets and when I got the chain off I tried to spin the motor by hand just to make sure it’s freed up.
For some reason I cannot spin the motor all the around with a wrench on the crank pulley? Do u have any idea what happened?
You should never rotate an engine with the cam not timed with the crank. Some engines are interference engines and the pistons can hit the valves if the cam is in the wrong location. Rotate the engine very gently by hand tool until it stops. Back it up 20-30 degrees and then rotate the cam gently to where you can time it with the engine again. Only after engine is timed (cam timing not ignition) should you attempt to rotate it again. Once you can rotate it do a compression test to see if any valves got bent. Bent valves won’t seal. If you have decent compression in each cylinder then write back for more help.
You can turn the crankshaft with the chain attached to see if the engine is locked, try removing the spark plugs when you do this or it will not turn easily and smoothly turning against the pressure in the cylinders
I’m working on Parts 3 and 4. I’m going to show what could be making your engine run poorly if the fuel synchronization is not set correctly. Hint: it has nothing to do with injector timing.
Instablaster...
Ur rite bro did the testing and your rite the # has nothing to do with it
What kind of testing did you do?
The days of setting Fuel Sync at +5 were before SCT and HP tuners custom flashing for the PCM was available. Setting to +5 would help get rid of CELs from bigger Camshafts and help with easier starts. Now that SCT and HP Tuners allow for custom tuning setting it back to 0 and the tuning is the preferred practice! Many people thought, well if he done it to his big cam motor than it should be good for my stock motor. I have my Fuel Sync currently set to +5 because 210/220 duration and 110Lsa camshaft and no custom tuning it starts easier and idles better with no CEL. As soon asI have time to do custom tuning it will be put back to 0!
You did not understand the point of the video. It doesn’t matter where you set fuel sync as long as you are within the factory window and do not set a code. The fuel sync has nothing to do with fuel quantity. It only allows the pcm to run in sequential fuel injection mode.
@@moccasinmarine you obviously don’t grasp what I was saying. Yes on a 100% stock motor you can adjust the Fuel Sync. +/- 10 degrees and it does nothing. But in a modified engine with a larger than factory camshaft it was found to help the engine NOT trip CELs and start easier and run smoother if the Fuel Sync was set to +5 degrees, all before Custom tuning existed. Now that custom tuning exist set it to Zero and forget it! We can now adjust the Fuel and timing tables instead of manipulating a sensor! I have people ask me all the time who tuned my truck because I don’t have any CEL and am running a noticeable different than factory camshaft, that should be tripping a CEL. It hasn’t been tuned. I have the software just haven’t got to it!
@@DakFink Not going to argue. Watch the video again carefully and throw out any preconceived notions about fuel sync. It does nothing to the fueling no matter what cam you run. The video explains it.
@@moccasinmarine I have no Preconceived notions about it. I never once said anything about changing the Fuel Sync changes the Fueling! You asked where people got the idea of Setting the Fuel Sync other than at 0-degrees came from and I told you where it came from. I have been with this platform and modifying them since 1999. Had a 408 CUI with a supercharger, and a fried that ran Nitrous 360 both running 10-sec 1/4 miles long before SCT and HP Tuners existed. Both set the Fuel Sync (CaM Sensor) + a few degrees just to keep the PCM happy. It was not to add or take away any fuel. It was strictly to appease the PCM for NO CEL and a smoother idle. What is actually done for the PCM to be happy? Ask the PCM. FUEL SYNC is a misleading name that Daimler Chrysler for some reason decided to give their Cam Sensor. Also the same company that uses TORR for their barometric measurement in their MAP tables.
@@DakFink smoother idle implies fuel changes. Also what does “keep the PCM happy” mean? The point is the cam sensor is just an adjustable switch that lets the pcm know where the engine is. It does nothing else. I can see a high horsepower engine maybe, maybe stretches the timing chain enough that setting the fuel sync forward would help from setting a CEL. I think we are close to understanding the same but to try and persuade more is pointless unless I have the pcm code in front of me. I have HP Tuners so maybe I’ll fork over $100 one day for my 98 Dodge Ram but I doubt it.
In the video I mention End of Injector Timing. This is widely known as EOIT. You can search for EOIT on UA-cam and learn a lot about it. But it’s totally controlled by the PCM using the crank position sensor (once the cam sensor has synchronized the crank sensor) to fire the injectors at a specific location in the 720 degree rotation cycle.
Here is a link to a good video on setting up EOIT on a Gen III LS engine.
ua-cam.com/video/jTEA9eq2QGc/v-deo.html
Is the distributor sensor also what syncs the ignition cycle?
That’s a good question and I was about to give you a bad answer. Since there is a mechanical distributor there is usually no need to sync the distributor with the computer. On pre 1995 GM EFI systems the computer sends an ignition pulse out 4 times per revolution and the distributor handles distributing the spark. I was about to say the Dodge system did the same but I now see there’s a difference. If you look at the crank trigger wheel (see link in description) there are 8 slots in the flex plate which will send 8 pulses to the computer per revolution. However this is a 4 stroke and there are only 4 ignition events per revolution. That means the computer will receive an extra pulse half way between each ignition event and it can’t fire a plug then or you would have severe pre- ignition. So there has to be a signal from the cam sensor telling the computer when to start counting crank trigger pulses so it can skip firing on every other pulse. GM systems after 1995 have 4 pulse trigger wheels so they fire the ignition coil every trigger event (plus or minus advance or retard amounts) and the mechanical distributor handles the distribution of the spark. They don’t need the cam sensor to synchronize ignition events which is why I suspect they will continue to run in batch fire mode with a failed cam sensor. This explanation may also explain why a Dodge engine will not start without a cam sensor. It can’t determine when to fire the ignition coil due to the extra crank trigger pulse.
I didn’t intend to say educated guesses twice. I meant to say GM fuel injection.
Hurry and make that third video .
I am there now and I need to get this vehicle running ...
I already made a third video. It’s in this playlist.
ua-cam.com/play/PL6wJJenh5G97YzI8Q0t2W7Zm680EpIFKs.html
But you need to make sure you have a working cam sensor and a working crank sensor. If you just rebuilt the engine then you need to make very small distributor rotation adjustments until it fires up.
Multi port injection only works up to 1000 or so rpms then it goes to sequential fuel injection to high rpm then all injectors are on full time that sensor works till the injector is on full time then it just throws a signal just like you said I believe that is a analog type if it was didgital it would different Like on coil packs but as far as setting the synchronization snap on used to make a code reader that you could see what the electricity went to the injector and how long it was on like setting the dwell on points those noid light just tell you if the systems working electrical but they are a life safer and it is quick to diagnose but the cheaper ones fail sooner god bless and have fun
If you are going to make comments like this bring some evidence to back up what you are saying.
I have the MT2500 by SnapOn that you are referring to and I can set Fuel Sync (Cam Sensor) activate and deactivate the injectors and watch them as they fire.
Isn’t multi port and sequential the same thing ?
I respectfully disagree with the comment about injector firing timing in this video. It frequently comes up in my recommended videos feed. I will provide more proof soon.
ua-cam.com/video/S1tBSP58QoQ/v-deo.html
Can you repeat that one more time. This is a 10sec clip on replay
We’ll it’s gone 15k views so some people like it. Sorry you don’t.
15k views and one negative comment. I’ll take that stat.
Thank you for this video, I am doing work on a 5.9 magnum and plan to do the chain, upper end gaskets and ignition - I have found that swapping the distributor is a more cost effective way to do the ignition in these older vehicles because when you buy the cap,rotor, cam sensor etc the dist assembly is about the same $$ and you get new shaft/gear etc. I have done the gm dist that you show in the video in my own truck, and as long as you line up all the marks when you install it, all will satisfy the ecm. Somebody has put a bug in my ear about this very subject on the magnum engine and the “fuel synch” etc - the way I figure it, I will swap the timing set and then before reinstalling the intake, I will lift the old distributor out, and line up the new one exactly the same as the one I pull out and everything should carry on as it was before I started the repair.
Can't you just move the crank crank sensor up or down to advance or retard timing???
No not practically anyway. The crank sensor is installed in a fixed hole in the back of the block. It picks up holes in the flexplate. The flexplate is indexed to the crankshaft with a dowel pin. This permanently locks the timing per the engineers design. The more practical way to change timing is with software to modify the calibration in the PCM. Until recently there was no software available. I think HP Tuners has a calibration editor for the Dodge 360 magnum engine now.