Відео

Big no. There is nothing in that distributor to trigger the ignition with. You’d need an msd crank trigger to fire an MSD ignition box and then the flat top distributor could route the spark but that would be expensive.

It’s a lot more than a 96+ Vortec. Look up a 2010 Silverado 4.3 on RockAuto. I found a tensioner in the timing components. But your engine is getting into the later year options so don’t go by what I say. You’re going to have to get a service manual for your engine.

Text me at 17063583175. I have some tips for you

You misunderstood the tan blue wire purpose. It leads back to the negative side of the alarm horn. A tan blue wire goes to each alarm device (low oil pressure, high temperature, and low gear oil level). If you are reading ground on the tan blue with engine off it’s because you are reading ground through the oil pressure switch which does sound the horn with the key on engine off. The yellow wire on TBV is for the analog temperature sensor. The TBV not only uses temperature to turn on the over temperature alarm it also retards the spark timing. Why do you suspect the over temperature alarm is not working?

@@moccasinmarine A bit different setup on my boat (Mariah SX9 2003). The low oil pressure switch does not use the tan/blue wire. It seems to only provide a positive connection to the fuel pump when shorted. However, if you remove the ICM from the engine and check the resistance between the tan/blue and black terminals (ICM), you get almost zero. This would mean that the buzzer should work constantly, which seems incorrect.

I can provide an exact wiring diagram of my boat. iBoats have a respective topic. Can't insert a URL here.

@@antons7852 there are three oil pressure devices. One is the sender for the gauge in dash, one is for the fuel pump power under way and the third is the low oil pressure alarm. When you turn on the key the low oil pressure switch does turn on the alarm horn until you start the engine. All tan blue wires are paralleled in the harness so if you read one wire to ground you’ll read back to the junction and then to ground through the oil pressure switch. Send me the link to the wiring via text to 706-358-3175.

@@moccasinmarine messaged you in a whatsapp and email.

You NEVER go WOT on a brand new engine. You must keep it under 3000 rpm for the first 10 hours. Otherwise it will not break in properly.

At the 3:30 mark I point out the port exhaust hose leaving heat exchanger and at 3:40 mark I point out the starboard exhaust hose leaving heat exchanger.

Sealed power or CLEVITE 77 P series. I rarely use aluminum bearings even though GM factory bearings are aluminum. I have videos on the parts I use. ua-cam.com/video/vR-mao6ZZX4/v-deo.htmlsi=joDRmlnI6dHZ6OzW

@@moccasinmarine how you feel about King hp bearings.

I only use top quality parts. The difference in cost isn’t worth the risk. I believe Engine Tech uses King bearings in their kits. I’m not impressed.

Text me at 706-358-3175 for a tip

It makes the engine run period. Thunderbolt modules are very old and beginning to fail. The Delco EST system is a better system.

Anytime you need a part number go to www.marinengine.com and use the search function.

Yes text your full name, shipping address, email, and your engine serial number and I’ll send you a quote/invoice for the kit you need. Text me at +17063583175.

Yes I sell them for $25 but why would you need just that part?

I think they are 3/8” x 16 stainless steel but not positive

I see the answer in a previous reply. My aftermarket pre Vortec gaskets is the plastic style from Michigan motoz

I’ve never heard of plastic gaskets for the pre Vortec heads. Are you certain they have 6 bolt holes on each gasket? The plastic gaskets can’t handle the torque of 35 ft lbs. They will crush. The other gaskets are coated paper and need the crush to seal.

@@moccasinmarine you are right it's not a plastic gasket. The gasket came with some steel tabs for a center port, not sure what that's about

The art of selling products is to the find the lowest cost part that does the job and make sure the part is not a Chinese ripoff that doesn’t meet the specification that it claims to have. The GM melonized gear is the only one I trust to meet the melonized specification and while it’s not cheap it’s not extravagantly priced.

@@moccasinmarine i agree, it’s hard to find parts that are not made in China. I’m 74 and been a drag racer since I was a teenager and I remember when GM parts started getting parts made in Mexico and I thought that was bad. 🤦‍♂️

At this stage of rebuilding I have not installed the distributor but yes if it were installed you could use it.

Thank you for getting back with me. I tried it and am getting zero compression. What have I done wrong at this point. I used the button to verify the cylander was due to fire and everything.

The distributor can only be used if it was installed properly and it sounds like it wasn’t. Don’t use the distributor. Rotate the engine until you see the exhaust valve on cylinder 1 move. Keep rotating until exhaust valve opens all the way and then closes. Just as the exhaust closes you’ll see the intake begin to open. You are now close to TDC on the exhaust stroke. Rotate the engine one full turn and line up the zero mark on timing tab with the notch on the pulley. You are now at TDC on the compression stroke on cylinder #1. Readjust both valves for just that cylinder. Using the firing order of 1,3,4,2 rotate the engine exactly 180 degrees and then adjust both valves on cylinder 3, then rotate 180 degrees again and adjust both valves on cylinder 4, rotate 180 degrees again and adjust both valves on cylinder 2. They should now all be adjusted correctly. Since the lifters may be pumped up with oil you’ll have to wait about an hour or so before running it to allow lifters to pump down. If it still has no compression you have a stuck lifter that is not allowing any preload. Oh btw, once you get back to TDC on cylinder 1, reinstall the distributor lining up the rotor to cylinder #1.

No, any gasket that has a rubbery or graphite or any other coating you don’t use any gasket sealer. The only gaskets I use silicone on are plain paper gaskets and maybe boosting the sealing of a Vortec rubber gasket around a water port.

Yes that’s how thunder bolt IV systems are wired. One purple from the ignition switch providing power and another purple leaving that powers the Thunderbolt IV module.

@moccasinmarine so the grey and white wire must be the grey wire that goes on your ignition coil? I read that they are all grey but I see no other option on mine...it must be spliced somewhere to go back to the tac?

@@jasonhosking8439 I’ve never seen a gray and white wire. The colors are too close together to be distinguishable. Are you sure it’s not just a white wire with dirt?

@moccasinmarine 100%, and a continuity test confirms it is the one that is abandoned on the TB V harness. I found a diagram that shows that wire is spliced into a run from the harness to the old TB module.

That’s way too little information to answer. But it’s not getting spark or fuel would be my answer.

carburetor had fuel, spray quick star, it back fire on #1 , spark plugs are new, rotor is new. though maybe timing ? we turn distributor right and left in small increments, and nothing.

Sounds like you have the firing order wrong on the distributor cap. The cylinders are 1,3,5 on the port side front to back and 2,4,6 on the starboard side. Going clockwise from #1 distributor post the order is 165432.

It a Marine Power Chevy 350 left turning engine.

It’s not timing. The engine won’t start if cam sensor is not working and once it’s running, the PCM doesn’t need cam sensor for ignition timing. Being that it sat up a long time my guess is either bad fuel, wrong size injectors, fuel pump gummed up or sluggish. Get a fuel pressure gauge and measure fuel pressure while running. I think that’s where you’ll find your problem.

@@moccasinmarine I had already grabbed a fuel gauge and will test this weekend. Hadn't thought of injectors being wrong size... might be worth verifying. I was going to test based on it having a new fuel pump in case it wasn't hitting pressure. I did go on to find the other videos last night and realized the distributor is a goofy cam sensor of sorts. That does alleviate my concern about it.

On some it is and some it’s not. Depends on what year it is.

@@moccasinmarine 1991, Mercruiser 5.7 (carb) with Thunderbolt 4 ignition

Please watch the video again because based on your question you did not fully grasp what I’m doing in this video. Part of your confusion is due to the instruction of setting timing to 8 BTDC. With an MPFI distributor with the flat crab top distributor cap, the dynamic timing is solely determined by the ECM and crank trigger. Again watch the video for a better understanding. I state the point of the video pretty clear starting at the 1:28 mark.

It looks like I need to turn the crankshaft so that cylinder #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke and drop the distributor, ensuring it points to the mark, and then let the ECM worry about timing. I get that... my problem is that setting everything like that, the terminals in the distributor will be mechanically lined up and touching each other at TDC. I guess I don't understand how the computer can change that. Even if it knows to fire spark 8 degrees before TDC, how is the spark traveling to the plug if the terminals in the rotor and cap of distributor are not in contact.

The terminals inside the distributor never actually touch each other. There is always a small air gap between them and the spark jumps the gap. 8 degrees of crankshaft timing is 4 degrees at the distributor and since the max timing of a v8 is around 30 degrees you will have 15 degrees of gap inside the distributor. At the 7:07 mark I show that the rotor has to point to the corner of the flat on the distributor body once the distributor is in place. Once that’s done you lock down the distributor and the ECM takes it from there.

@moccasinmarine that makes sense. Ty. I have another question related to this. I've installed the distributor just as you described in this video. Next, I installed the harness. I didn't realize this but the cam shaft position sensor was not connected when I pulled the engine. I looked around and didn't see a free conector. There is one in the area, but it is connected to a connector. I'm not sure if I should disconnect it from there and connect it to the sensor. I have a couple of pics but can't post them here.

I misspoke in the majority of the video about the cam sensor. I wasn’t wrong but most of the cam sensor discussion pertains to cars and trucks. The boats having distributors still used batch fire fuel strategy so the cam sensor isn’t needed. You’ll find in the marine applications there is no cam sensor plug.

Glad to help

Yes moisture from sitting in the cold all winter.

You need to confirm that the timing is advancing to the right value at full throttle and that it will be reliable on the water and not stall out on you. You must not have read that I only recommend genuine GM modules. I had numerous problems with aftermarket modules, even expensive ones.

Text 7063583175. I’ll get back to you soon after

@@moccasinmarine thanks just texted u from a 901 phone number

Glad you enjoyed it

Welcome to Thunderbolt Ignition Wonderland. The solution is right in front of you. Do you really think I’d go to all the trouble to create all these videos about replacing the Thunderbolt Ignition for no reason? There is no test, there is no logic you can apply, there is only one solution you can do and that’s replace the Thunderbolt ignition system with a Delco EST ignition. You could try replacing the optical pickup in the distributor since you’ve already replaced the coil. But there is no test for the module. It’s a mysterious beast that will tempt you for weeks by half working and then not working. The link you posted on says it’s obsolete. Follow the link in the description to the more recent Sparkie the Eel playlist to find your way out of Thunderbolt Wonderland.

The shift kill switch is a micro switch mounted to the shift mechanism. It doesn’t get connected until the shift mechanism is attached to the exhaust after the engine is installed in the boat.

@moccasinmarine thank you, so there is nothing saying where the red wire from the distributer, and the white/black get connected? That's why I was wondering if I missed something in another video...appreciate it.

Sorry I don’t have experience with steering systems. I would search UA-cam for help.

I used the tool that I had. The method I used was more than accurate enough.

What causes the dimpled bumpy surface on the round part of the gear? If a gear did not have this dimpled appearance could it still have been nitrided?

You can’t adjust the timing on systems using the crab cap distributor. It’s fixed by the crankshaft sensor which is keyed (non adjustable). The distributor still has to be mechanically timed so that at TDC the rotor points to the #1 cap contact. On some applications the distributor clamp is square and locks the distributor in only one position. However, if you have the distributor with vertical posts and a 6 pin module, then you set the timing using the method in this video. ua-cam.com/video/djjvdJAEdVY/v-deo.htmlsi=KstJ8JV0TdDiIAxN Thanks for the super thanks btw.

@@moccasinmarine Yepper, that that was why it was so helpful- I learned that there were no adjustments to be made other than proper alignment/indexing during installation. You saved vacation! Thanks again,🙂

Thanks for your opinion. All gears except where I stated had high miles on them were ran on a brand new engine so no chain slop. The gears are cheap and not intended to last. The 5.0, 5.7, and 6.2 after 1995 all used melonized gears from factory so it is a thing, as can be confirmed by GM. The 4.3 camshaft back to 1987 is also a steel billet roller cam and will benefit from the melonized gear. But you’re right the v6 gears are sacrificial and wear out several times during the life of the engine.

Why are you resisting doing it the right way? You’re going to have to reset the timing anyway with a timing light.

@@moccasinmarine I'll try and do it the right way. Just didn't know until this video. Have you ever used one of those cheap raw water pumps from Amazon or ebay?

Are you the same person who texted me?

I’m in Harris County Georgia, 100 miles southwest of Atlanta on Georgia/Alabama state line.

@@moccasinmarine dang, I’m in Idaho. How many do you usually build in a year? And do you sell them nationwide or just locally? Thanks for the videos they are very helpful.

@@eddygoodwin7089 I try and maintain 1 build a month but that slips when the scope creeps to restoring an entire boat. I sell engines to a mechanic on the gulf coast too. I could mount an engine on a pallet and ship anywhere if needed. What size engine do you have?

@@moccasinmarine that’s awesome. It’s a 4.3 vortec

@@eddygoodwin7089 text me at 7063583175.