Відео

I don’t understand your question.

These are actually the cheaper gaskets that are ok for boats but not cars or trucks. Antifreeze eats these up but boats just have fresh or saltwater which won’t hurt these gaskets.

@moccasinmarine okay where did you pick these gaskets up?

You did t tell me what kind of engines you have? Do you know the serial number of the engines?

@@moccasinmarine I dont have the serial number but they are 4.3L mercruisers EFI. The engines have less than 300 hours but they have been sitting for 4 years. There is just 22 hours on new oil Mercruiser 25W and mercruiser oil filters on both engines. The oil is very clean and the old oil was very clean before I changed.

@@marekmarko2274 the first thing to do is install a mechanical oil pressure gauge to confirm that the oil pressure really is dropping. You could have an oil pressure sending unit going partially bad showing an improper reading. If that’s not it you could have a broken spring in the oil pump that is bleeding off oil pressure at idle. At higher speeds there is enough volume to overcome the broken spring. The oil pump is submerged in the oil in the pan so the pickup tube is not that critical to your issue.

@@moccasinmarine Thank you so much!

Negative, the conical centering sleeve needs something to guide it. The tool is used to knock bearings 4 and 5 in from the front of the block

Not from other videos I have watched.

@@vanmccall7770 post one of those videos and I’ll comment on it.

Yes I was impressed with the condition of this engine with that many miles on it. He got rid of a perfectly fine engine over a $2 o-ring.

I learn everyday.

There are two methods that the pcm measures air intake into an engine. MAF sensors directly measure Mass Air Flow and as long as the sensor is in calibration, you can make changes to the engine and the MAF sensor will compensate for the changing intake air. MAP sensors on the other hand are used in a pcm calculation along with other values, (cylinder volume, rpm, etc.) to estimate the air flow but this estimation only works if the engine pulls in the same air it did when it was factory calibrated. If you change the cam or make the engine larger the calibration in the pcm is no longer correct for the modified engine. So if you want the engine to run well enough to get it to a dyno for tuning then disconnect the MAP sensor and the pcm will run only on the MAF sensor but it will set a code. I’m not recommending you run on a MAF only system for good, just long enough to get it tuned.

Thank you! Cheers!

Thank you! Cheers!

Thnx

Cheers

You're welcome, thanks for watching!

You're welcome, thanks for watching!

You're welcome, thanks for watching!

You're welcome, thanks for watching!

You’re welcome!

Thnx

By the way the boat is 2007 so I'm not even sure if im looking at the right manual or it's generalized manual

As I’ve stated in other videos the Mercruiser manuals have errors and there are different versions. Some manuals say set timing for 1 BTDC and others say 2 ATDC. The DELCO EST manual says 2ATDC so that’s what I use, plus it’s less aggressive. This is the manual I use: f01.justanswer.com/oldnewenglandmarine/36c97f52-be29-4a64-9ab5-8bf8b351bf86_Delco_EST.pdf

The lower gear housing is also known as the foot. It’s what gets knocked off if you hit a rock so on a lot of boats for sale it will say “needs a new foot”. The text in the video is referring to the part of the propeller drive system that is submerged under water when the boat is underway. On Mercruisers that’s where the raw water cooling pump resides. On Volvo Penta systems the raw water pump is located on the engine and is driven by the belt. It’s not the engine pump but a separately mounted pump. Here is a video link on how to replace a Mercruiser water pump located in the foot: ua-cam.com/video/I1Y0EX4lbDw/v-deo.htmlsi=VITmaIP6c7MHqeTE

You’re welcome

You’re welcome.

I don’t think you can buy just a wrist pin. Pistons and wrist pins are manufactured together to achieve close tolerances. I have never bought just a wrist pin and wouldn’t consider doing that. I just buy the whole piston which always comes with a wrist pin.

Put out hard evidence that I’m wrong then.

Yes but why do you want to make it carbureted? There are sensors like the MAP sensor, throttle position, and coolant that the ECM uses to control the transmission unless you have a manual transmission it’s going to be tricky.

@moccasinmarine Hello, thank you for responding, I have a manual transmission, I simply want to forget about computers, I would like to know if it is compatible since Google says that it is only compatible from 1997 onwards but I have seen the photos and I cannot understand what changes so that it does not work in 1996

@@RDORNERif you have 8 bolts holding the intake on then the intake will fit

@@moccasinmarine If all 8 are there, well anyway, if it doesn't work correctly, I can return it, thanks friend, the next message I send you will be if it worked or not, thanks again for your time

On fuel injected engines you install a jumper in the data link connector. You then set the timing to 8 degrees BTDC. This video shows how to set the timing. ua-cam.com/video/djjvdJAEdVY/v-deo.htmlsi=6gEJk6QIHUNXxebv

@ Excelent! And really thank you to answer me, Is The same in 4.3 G i with TBI 2003 ? I think my injection isn’t MPI

@@juanborchex2082 TBI or MPFI doesn’t matter. All you are doing is correlating the distributor position with where the ECM wants it when the datalink pins are jumpered. After the jumper is removed the ECM takes over the timing. The calibration in the ECM is different for a v6 vs. a V8.

The video series you are looking at contains all the information you need. But a 1998 would almost certainly be a Thunderbolt 5. If you look on the flame arrestor or valve cover you should find the engine serial number. That tells me all I need to know to provide the proper kit. You can email me at moccasin.marine.llc@gmail.com with the above info.

Sure it’s not brown w light blue stripe? That would an alarm wire that sounds buzzer if it touches ground. It goes to the over temperature switch more than likely.

@moccasinmarine the wire it too short to of been able to connect to the temp switch. It's definitely brown with a yellow strip. Is there anywhere i could send you a picture of it?

Moccasin.marine.llc@gmail.com

I’m building two now. I can definitely say I don’t recommend drive by wire. I did a video on my reasons which I’m not ready to publish. Contact me privately if you want to know why. I plan to release all the videos when’s it all done.

@ What is your email address?

It’s moccasin.marine.llc@gmail.com

Thanks

I do appreciate donations. My PayPal handle is www.paypal.me/JohnWilson994657. But my primary goal of this channel is to create a market for tools and parts that I design and sell. That way you get a tangible item for your money. You can donate whatever you feel is fair.

Just curious what was wrong with the engine when you got the boat? Also be sure to run 89 or higher octane for the life of the boat and 91 or higher during the break in period. Mercruiser engines are basically GM truck engines and need to be treated with care since they are pushed to their limits everytime you put it in the water. High octane is a safety margin that’s needed on a high RPM truck engine. Also, ethanol gas, E-10 runs lean in a carbureted engine because the jets are set up for pure gasoline. So running low octane combined with ethanol gas is going to detonate the engine.

No it’s all steel.

@ Thanks 👍

It’s great to hear you got some help from my videos. All I ask any of my viewers is to seriously consider purchasing my tools and parts from my video links. My main motivation is create a market for tools and parts to make boat work easier. This way you get something for your money and I am able to stay in business to keep the videos coming.

Thanks

I can’t say it often enough, read the description of all my videos. I plainly state this is part 1 of the teardown and I state that in the video.

Some racers partially fill unused cooling cavities to reduce the water volume and lower the weight. If you do that on heads they are no longer interchangeable left to right. Otherwise it doesn’t hurt anything as long as they didn’t overfill it.

Funny you mention that now. The SUV (Traverse) quit running gradually over a week. So I’m doing the job again. I have the cover off and all chains are still in place and tensioned. But the exhaust phaser on the front bank (GM calls it the right bank) has failed because it isn’t locked. It moves with a wrench with the engine off. After reading about Cloyes chains breaking I bought all Melling this time around. I’m replacing the phaser with a genuine GM part but honestly it doesn’t look better quality than the Chinese Melling phaser I returned. I hope to have it all back together soon.