Large Format Camera Movements
Вставка
- Опубліковано 13 лип 2024
- theartofphotography.tv/episode...
In this episode, we'll look at camera standard movements to correct parallel lines and achieve spot focus effects.
View more at aop.thepublicbroadcast.com - Наука та технологія
Excellent explanations. The only thing missing are some sample photos to show us what the movements can create.
Thanks for the great explanation. I just bough an used 4x5 and a 90mm lens. It would have been great if you showed photos that reflected which adjusted you made.
This was great, thanks! Usually takes me a while to grasp this so watched it twice and now i've got it! haha
It would have helped if you had cut in some picture examples.
Exactly...
Indeed!
Have you looked online for used cameras? KEH usually has good prices.
I believe Canon tilt shift lenses are 17, 24, 45, 90 mm.
The 24 mm is in my kit, which is actually made of a mirrorless Sony camera. The price is still ridiculous, I might sell it.
However I would like to correct this:
Shallow depth of field is a big problem for macro photography. In fact the effect is extremely pronounced and problematic when working with living creatures, flowers and wind, hand holding as it requires to stop down, and this then decreases the shutter speed dramatically (longer exposure). Also the more focal length, the less depth of field.
And I would like to explain what LF camera photographers actually use tilt for: to get everything in focus! It goes both ways.
Very helpful vídeo, thanks so much!
PU a nice Crown Graphic.. Been away from large format for while. Thanks for the push start.
Nice work, nice videos. Thank you
Wow! Just wow.
The ground glass is going to be at the exact same place as the film, so you'll see everything there that you would on the film. It's not uncommon to see use a loupe (one-eyed magnifying glass) and a cloth to inspect the image for proper focus before taking the image -- in fact, some people will map out the dark and bright areas (via Ansel Adams' zone system) before shooting to get their exposures correct.
Large format photography is a very slow, deliberate process. =)
I think I missed how to correct parallel lines. Isn't the only way to do that, is to have the image plane parallel to the lines?
Can you see the effects of the tilt in the ground glass or only after the film has been developed?
Nice video!
Great video, but I would like to add, that the original point of the tilting movements were not to throw things out of focus but to extend the depth of field. For example if you shoot some still life on a tabletop from an angle, you can adjust the plane of focus, so it is parallel with the table top and thereby achieve focus over the entire still life. I believe that is very important in product photography and things like that...
Wow I had no idea that those cameras from the 19th century had their modernized version. I bet that with todays technology you can get insane amount of detail from those 8x10 negative plates.
What make / model of camera is in the video Ted?
'shift' and 'rise and fall' are not the same thing (as incorrectly stated at 1:30). 'Shift' refers to horizontal movement of the standard and 'rise and fall' refers to vertical movement of the standard.
what about the rear movements?
Only rear tilt will adjust the merging parallel lines.
Rise and fall is not the same thing as shift
Barrel distortion can’t be corrected with view camera movements
“Depth of field” is not shallow depth of field it’s the depth of the field. It can be shallow or deep
View camera movements, historically, were used to increase depth of field. People emulate them in the opposite way to reduce depth of field to make special effects
For macro, you usually have very little depth of field so using movements to compensate would be more necessary for close up
For landscape usually less movements are necessary. It depends on the depth of the subject.
I think you’re using the term “depth of field” to mean “shallow depth of field”?
more large format pleasee, i like your vlogs but this has more substance!
I´m sorry, but: Tilt and Swing movements were invented to ENLARGE depth of field, not NARROW it. Also, Mr Artofphotography seems to confuse depth of field with the lack of it. Google "Scheimpflug".
Needless to say, lens defects such as barrel distortion cannot be corrected with a camera, no matter what movements it has. If you move a lens with barrel distortion off center, you move your frame right into a zone of even stronger distortion.
Solid smattering here, I´m afraid.
The rear movements are the same as the front so that's why he didn't repeat them.
CamboLove.
This guy has a great voice for radio.. and seducing women..
+Scahoni Totally agree. It was basically my first take away from this video. Love his voice!
I agree, great voice.
It's being mentioned that "for macro work you probably don't need tilt as the lens will give enough depth of field". This is a fail! When doing macro work, getting enough depth of field is very difficult as the image starts to degrade at high f-stops. Instead of doing image stacking you use tilt to get bigger dof!!!
You know your stuff, but the way you talk and also the way you explain some things.....well. Simply put, depth-of-field is the range of focus; the area in front of and behind your main point of focus that appears in focus. So if I focus on a person's face, we want the entire face in focus (nose to ears) but we may not want the background in focus. The out of focus background puts the attention on the subject. The tree is in focus, but the house behind it is not. Or we can have the house in focus as well. . D-o-f is controlled by the size if the lens opening. Larger openings will give you less d-o-f. Also the distance you are from the subject. As you move closer, you also have less d-o-f as well. But we want everything in focus. What about a landscape, or photographing an antique car? We want every part of the car in focus: front to back. Using a view camera, you can control d-o-f even more. That's just one application. Another application is perspective correction.
Photographing a building as you said in the video is a great example. So if I want to get the entire building in the frame, I may have to move farther back. This will make the building look smaller, and I may not be able to examine all the detail as good. Being closer for detail, I may have to tilt the camera up to get the entire building in the frame. (fixed lens). This makes the building look as though it were tilted backwards. If that's what you want for an artistic picture, then you can do that. The top of the building is farther away from the film in the camera then the bottom, so the top looks smaller; the lines of the building seem to converge inwards, and when you do this in a drawing, you're creating depth. In the photo, the building looks tilted backwards. Using a view camera solves this problem. The film in the back remains parallel to the plane of the building, while the lens is adjusted to get the building in the frame.
Another reason for using a view camera is larger film (I know, nobody uses film any more) But this can give you very sharp pictures with no grain. But sometimes you may want the grain. The grain gives the picture a certain look.
You bought that big amazing camera and put a polaroid lens with a piece of cardboard on it? Why? Any plans to get a better lens or is that lens sharp already?
Two guys don't understand rise/fall, tilt and shift. :-)