Hi! Do you ever take into consideration your bellows extension? (the "bellows extension factor" which we'd usually apply to increase exposure to compensate for light loss, as in this sort of case?) I believe the rule is: more exposure must be given if your subject is *closer than 8x the focal length of the lens* (in your case: 8 x 250mm = 2000mm (which is 2 meters, therefore about 6.5 feet). This would explain why - as you had mentioned in you video - your image was "a bit underexposed". I mean, because of some latitude, it looks pretty good as it is except for some detail lost in the shadow side of your girlfriend's hair. All-in-all, bravo, though!
I do but I never really go too exact with it. For me it's more or less a decent estimate based off the given situation. I was never good at math so I figured long ago that it's probably best for everyone (me and subject) to not get it involved in my shooting.
Hi Austin, thank you very much for the nice and educative video! I like the background canvas you’re using in the shooting with Renée. Which type is it and where did you get it?
your confidence and verbal fluidity for the camera disappear in the presence of your girlfriend lmao. can tell you're focusing very hard on your words. it's cute. great video though
Awesome video! I remember seeing you guys doing the paper in Mauer park a year or do ago and still am excited to try it someday! Somewhere at my mom’s in Idaho I gave a Speedgraflex I would love to try with!
Wow! What that was a lot of learning from our side on the other hand that was a lot of work for one shot, but its an artist tool. Pretty intensive, Thank you for sharing and you are master of an 8x10 format. you explained very well. Awesome Thank you once again.
Very good video. Out of curiosity, do you do large prints from your photos for galleries or to hang up in your home? The cost for the film and lab work is way too high. The cost of using my vintage middle format Rolleiflex camera is enough to make me cry, and I only use it a couple of times a year. I have to admit that I don't miss film and happily transitioned to digital a long, long time ago. I do love the character and personalities of old glass.
Tempting as it is Austin I would not Blow on the Shutter like that. Any moisture which lands on it will Rust it and cause it to malfunction. Thanks for the Video 👍
Interesting that most LF photographers (including me) seem to use the white side as "unexposed". I think that it was meant for writing on it with a OHP pen, but I might be mistaken (and then it would make more sense to have the white side for "exposed" with some notes on it). What I don't like about Fomapan film is that it is very prone to mechanical damage of the coating (especially during development), and its sensitivity is rather low (the Fomapan 400 is more an ISO 200 film if you want to have shadow detail) - not to speak about the really massive reciprocity failure (I'm doing LF pinhole photography, and there it can be real pain in the behind ;-)). My preferred B&W film stock is actually ADOX CHS 100 II (I'm shooting 4x5, no 8x10 at the moment), as it is ortho-panchromatic and not expensive (somewhere between Foma and Ilford), and for 8x10 I would use Ilford HP5 Plus (not as cheap as Fomapan, but halfway affordable; I might go 8x10 at some point, and the HP5 Plus would be my main film stock for that).
I was lost when you took 400 IsO film and metered for 800 while referring to metering for the shadows , (effectively underexposing) but then after development said it was underexposed ? did you mean to say you were using 400 speed film and metering at 200 ?
I shot and metered and developed for for ISO 800 but ended up with a slight underexposure probably due to a little longer than normal bellows extension. With bellowed cameras, you start to lose light the further the front standard moves away from the film plane which means you have to give longer exposures the more you extend your bellows even if the light does not change. That topic is probably better suited to a more in-depth video though
when making a video about SHOOTING large format, the quickest and most "user friendly" way to show the result is to scan it digitally. Also, does it really matter if it's underexposed? Sure, I could have spend another 5 minutes explaining and showing off the calculations needed for bellow extension exposure compensation and getting a bit better exposure but I didn't... sue me.
![[UA] NAVI проти G2 Esports | Blast Premier Fall Final](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QWlIm4FGESQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for watching everyone!
Thank you for filming and documentation of the large format process.
Reminder for everyone, x-ray film costs less than $0.50 cents a sheet and is available worldwide...
Hi! Do you ever take into consideration your bellows extension? (the "bellows extension factor" which we'd usually apply to increase exposure to compensate for light loss, as in this sort of case?) I believe the rule is: more exposure must be given if your subject is *closer than 8x the focal length of the lens* (in your case: 8 x 250mm = 2000mm (which is 2 meters, therefore about 6.5 feet). This would explain why - as you had mentioned in you video - your image was "a bit underexposed". I mean, because of some latitude, it looks pretty good as it is except for some detail lost in the shadow side of your girlfriend's hair. All-in-all, bravo, though!
I do but I never really go too exact with it. For me it's more or less a decent estimate based off the given situation. I was never good at math so I figured long ago that it's probably best for everyone (me and subject) to not get it involved in my shooting.
@@austinfassino OK
Great job with the animated images to illustrate movements. I’m getting back into LF and this was a great reminder tutorial.
This is the best large format explanation vid on the UA-cams.
Hi Austin, thank you very much for the nice and educative video! I like the background canvas you’re using in the shooting with Renée. Which type is it and where did you get it?
im curious too. can you help us out? @austinfassino @safelightberlin
dirty holder man lol
your confidence and verbal fluidity for the camera disappear in the presence of your girlfriend lmao. can tell you're focusing very hard on your words. it's cute. great video though
Good vid... always cock and test the shutter before pulling the darkslide ;)
you should calculate the exposure and cock the shut before you do the movements because the subject will likely move
Awesome video! I remember seeing you guys doing the paper in Mauer park a year or do ago and still am excited to try it someday! Somewhere at my mom’s in Idaho I gave a Speedgraflex I would love to try with!
Wow! What that was a lot of learning from our side on the other hand that was a lot of work for one shot, but its an artist tool. Pretty intensive, Thank you for sharing and you are master of an 8x10 format. you explained very well. Awesome Thank you once again.
It doesn't make any difference that paper is orthochromatic if you expose it with white light through negative.
When I use Orthochromatic paper, I shoot directly to it and not in a darkroom setting w/ an Enlarger.
The BEST Large Format tutorial!
really good video & animations love it !
Can you do a video on the different films (Portra, Cinestill etc.)?
Cool vid. Watch from beginning to end. Keep them coming.
🙏 Thanks!
which of these would you recommend to someone who has shot film but not large format: 4*5, 5*7, and 8*10?
personally, i love 5x7
Great stuff much appreciated 🙌🏾🙌🏾🙌🏾
Very good video. Out of curiosity, do you do large prints from your photos for galleries or to hang up in your home? The cost for the film and lab work is way too high. The cost of using my vintage middle format Rolleiflex camera is enough to make me cry, and I only use it a couple of times a year. I have to admit that I don't miss film and happily transitioned to digital a long, long time ago. I do love the character and personalities of old glass.
You would be surprised how cheap you can shoot film if you develop or scan at home!
Tempting as it is Austin I would not Blow on the Shutter like that.
Any moisture which lands on it will Rust it and cause it to malfunction.
Thanks for the Video 👍
I couldn't find my rocket blower 🤷♂
Super
Wow much rad. Roast!
so good, like it thanks
Interesting that most LF photographers (including me) seem to use the white side as "unexposed". I think that it was meant for writing on it with a OHP pen, but I might be mistaken (and then it would make more sense to have the white side for "exposed" with some notes on it). What I don't like about Fomapan film is that it is very prone to mechanical damage of the coating (especially during development), and its sensitivity is rather low (the Fomapan 400 is more an ISO 200 film if you want to have shadow detail) - not to speak about the really massive reciprocity failure (I'm doing LF pinhole photography, and there it can be real pain in the behind ;-)). My preferred B&W film stock is actually ADOX CHS 100 II (I'm shooting 4x5, no 8x10 at the moment), as it is ortho-panchromatic and not expensive (somewhere between Foma and Ilford), and for 8x10 I would use Ilford HP5 Plus (not as cheap as Fomapan, but halfway affordable; I might go 8x10 at some point, and the HP5 Plus would be my main film stock for that).
Thanks. Where you buy this type of backdrop ?
Thank you for showing us the mechanics and process.
I was lost when you took 400 IsO film and metered for 800 while referring to metering for the shadows , (effectively underexposing) but then after development said it was underexposed ? did you mean to say you were using 400 speed film and metering at 200 ?
I shot and metered and developed for for ISO 800 but ended up with a slight underexposure probably due to a little longer than normal bellows extension. With bellowed cameras, you start to lose light the further the front standard moves away from the film plane which means you have to give longer exposures the more you extend your bellows even if the light does not change.
That topic is probably better suited to a more in-depth video though
can I ask you what made you pick the newly made large format cameras and not some old Horseman or Toyo, on something else?
cost and weight.
You shoot 10x8 negative then make a digital scan??!!! Also it’s well underexposed.
when making a video about SHOOTING large format, the quickest and most "user friendly" way to show the result is to scan it digitally. Also, does it really matter if it's underexposed? Sure, I could have spend another 5 minutes explaining and showing off the calculations needed for bellow extension exposure compensation and getting a bit better exposure but I didn't... sue me.
Nice 😍👌
Dope video.