Sport VS. Normal Mode on Toyota Corolla w/ CVT Transmission
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- Find out the difference between sport mode and normal mode on a 2014 Toyota Corolla with CVT Transmission. Does sport mode make your car faster, or is it a gimmick?
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The creator of this video makes no claims, promises or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness, or applicability of the procedures and instructions contained in this video.
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I mainly use the "sport mode" during downhills. A good way to get engine brakes, avoiding riding the brake.
Please keep on making videos for your Corolla. I’m planning on keeping mine for another couple years and you’re videos are really helpful
I'll try, Thanks!
@clever fix how often do you change CVT oil ???
Sport mode is tricky because as a consumer you aren't given the information needed to understand it. Aside from keeping rpms high and changing throttle responses in valvematic engines (the model with suffix ending in FAE, for corollas I believe the main variation with valvematic would be the 2ZR-FAE 1.8L before 2021 and 2.0L 2022-present) in valvematic models there is no EGR system and fuel emissions are controlled through the use of the valvematic system. Essentially what the system will do is keep a portion of exhaust gas in the cylinder, for valvematic engines the Sport mode will not keep the exhaust gas in the cylinder for a second cycle. However, expect to burn twice as much gas, from personal experience I went from 26-31mpg to 11-14mpg in sport mode. Keep your car in sport mode if you want to avoid carbon build up and just go easy on the accelerator.
It never made sense to me how the Eco model got the upgraded 2ZR-FAE engine with 10 more horsepower. Meanwhile, the Sport model only came with the regular 2ZR-FE. It's so Ironic...🤔🤣
this is lit
I just got the 2020 Corolla SE hatchback 6-speed manual... only, I have no sport button anywhere (can't find it). I used to have MINI Clubman S with a sport button/mode, and I want to see if my corolla indeed has the sport mode too. It's SE, it should, right?
It's a manual.
Hey not sure what wheel set up your Corolla has but I have a 2015 S with the 17" 215/45 R17 and saw some forum post saying the best tire swap is 225/45 R17. By any chance do you know what differences and cons could this cause
The original tire size is 215. If you go with 225 the tire is 10mm wider. Difference would be more traction with 225, but a bit less mileage, and with 225 it's also harder to scratch the rim on a curb because the tire sticks out more. The suspension components were designed for 215, so it would be a little more stress going with 225, so things like balljoints and bearings, could wear out faster.
This generation of corolla with the S models larger rims/tire size are also known to have a false and inaccurate speedometer reading. By changing the stock tire size it helps it be more accurate. 👍
Thanks for the video. I have a 2016 Corolla S and this video is helpful. I usually only use Sport mode when entering freeway. Other than that not so much! I live in California and gas is $6 to $7 a gallon ⛽⛽⛽ and Sport mode takes it out of ECO mode!
You're welcome! I was entering the freeway in that video, so there should be no difference if you press the gas pedal down enough without sport mode. For some reason in sports mode the car feels faster to me, but when playing back the video, I was surprised it was exactly the same.
In the playback I see the Normal mode operates in a higher rpm range than Sport mode. Why ? How come ?
Shouldn't it be vise versa ?
Am I missing something ?
In sport mode the computer simulates gears, like a transmission with 1st 2nd 3rd 4th... so it goes up high, and then it "shifts" and goes down. I added "Simulated Shift" in the video when it happens. Normal mode doesn't simulate shifts, it uses the CVT transmission as a real CTV. In CTV The RPM can be kept constant, while the gear ratio is changed by moving the cone inside.. so the simulated gears don't help in this case. However, the simulated gears do help to keep the RPM high whenever quick power is required, so that's why sport mode uses simulated gears. It keeps the gear ratio/cone position, is such way that it keeps RPM higher while hardly pressing the gas at all. On Full throttle though, it still has to cycle through it's simulated ranges.. the paddle shifters on the S model just switch the simulated ranges.. and when not in paddle shift mode, the computer will do the shifting if sport mode is enabled, without showing the 1 2 3 4 5 6 on the dash.. without sport mode, there's no range like 12 3 4 5 6, it's continuously adjusting and RPM is much more constant.
Keep in mind that "simulated gears" is in reality is a "position of the cone" in the transmission. So instead of continuously adjusting the cone (normal mode), there are pre-set locations for it.. so it jumps from one spot to another when going from 1 to 2 etc.
It is likely the belt across the cones that moves, I'm not sure how this model works exactly, so when I say "move cone" it just means change the gear ratio.
Same here. Uphill and downhill mainly.
what if i don’t have a sports mode button
Then you're in ECO mode all the time.
@@CleverFix i have a six speed manual is that why?😹my faukt with the dumb questions
Hi! Love your videos. I was looking for your video on changing CVT fluid on a Corolla but can't find it now. Can you provide the link?
Hi, thanks. I wasn't getting much positive feedback on that video, .. some people had trouble removing the fill bolt, and lots didn't like the weighing method, so I decided to re-do it, but I haven't finished editing.
This video: ua-cam.com/video/NvTSowJGhUo/v-deo.html is pretty much the same thing. He's using this big tube for re-filling, which is probably expensive though. I found that a Measu-Funnel works nicely for refilling, it can be found on Amazon, fairly cheap. The wheel well has to be clean though, to prevent dirt falling in, because the tube is a bit short. I was really happy with it though, the big funnel speeds things up compared to the tiny funnel I was using before. I ended up doing 4 drain & fills, and I can really tell the difference now.. The Corolla is 10 years old now so it needed it. Hopefully I'll finish the new one in a few days, I'm trying to find a good microphone at the moment.
@@CleverFix Hello! A belated thank you for this reply. I am familiar with the youtuber you referenced but for some reason, he doesn't respond to any questions like you do! I searched your channel and don't see your new video on the CVT oil change. Is it still in the works? I watched the other fellow's video, and think your method is much more thorough. Not sure why you wouldn't be getting good feedback. I thought it was a very accurate and meticulous approach. I hope you can post your new video soon as I need to review your approach before I tackle this job. I got the Toyota fluid and new drain and fill gaskets for the job.
@@mountainbiker4450 Check google for "k313 cvt fluid change pdf" the toyotanation result will give you the whole procedure I did as a PDF.
Note that there are wrong "fluid adjustment" videos out there, that don't check temperature at all. The proper procedure is in that PDF.
My video is close to done, but it will be only a drain and re-fill, which is very simple, and will be quite short. The feedback was about all sorts of things to do with adjusting the level that did not work. And I agree that it is a complicated procedure, and the paperclip thing was not ideal to enter diagnostic mode.
That's great you got the gaskets! A rusty fill bolt can cause the allen key to slip, that may be a good idea to change as well, depending on it's condition.
Hope the PDF helps. If anything is unclear in there, I can try to explain it.
@@mountainbiker4450 Without a hoist, draining while the car is on the ground, before lifting it, will allow more oil to come out.. that's one more thing I had in the video that others don't talk about. The further the front is lifted, the less fluid comes out.
@@CleverFix Hi again! I'm in the middle of my Corolla CVT drain and refill job (finally!) and had a question. I measured (on a scale like you did) the amount that came out, and then added that same amount plus about another 50g excess. I'm confused about the fluid temp procedure. After I use the jumper for the OBD pins, start the car and then go through the gears, when I'm going quickly between D and N am I looking for the D indicator to stay on after shifting between D and N (regardless of whether I'm in D or N)? And then, I shift to P, take out OBD jumper, the screen will not show D, but then wait for D to return solid during which time I should remove drain plug and let excess exit through straw before D starts blinking. Do I have this correct? again, I'm really confused if I'm supposed to keep shifting between D and N until D shows solid and then quickly remove drain plug OR if there is a waiting period while fluid warms up and D symbol returns to the screen.